I started using 100 watt bulbs in 1978. Thats when I discovered relays. I found that I had to increase the wire size to get the benefits from the brighter bulbs. I found my wipers went faster and my battery didn't discharge as fast. Didn't need the larger alternator. Used 14 then 12 gauge wire. The lights were twice as bright compared to the stock wiring.
Not trying to spam your videos, but the way you keep characterising lux and lumens isn't correct at all. Lumens isn't "theoretical". It's actually what you're trying to claim lux is: the real world light output. It doesn't matter if a bulb outputs a massive amount of light at a single point, like a laser pointer. That doesn't help me see the whole road. What matters is the total light output, which is measured in lumens not lux. I understand the reason you're not testing lumens is it's much more expensive and difficult. So to compromise I would suggest marking maybe 5 locations on your wall and using your lux meter on them. Then you could give a spot measurement at the central, brightest point and an average of all of them that would approximate total light output.
When we say Lumen is theoretical you need to consider the context. Sure, Lumen can be tested to be a real number, but in the automotive lighting world VERY FEW companies do. Vision X, Rigid Industries, JW Speaker and Diode Dynamics are the only companies I can think of off the top of my head who publish ACTUAL tested Lumen numbers. The other 10,000 random light bulb companies out there take the theoretical maximum Lumen from an individual chip and multiply it by how many chips are on the product - Voila! The theoretical max lumen rating. Secondly, we could get an integrating sphere and do a Lumen test to verify everyone's information, but I don't believe it would be very useful. Lumen is the total brightness created by the light source. Lux is the measurement of how that light gets used and how effective it is at a certain point in space. The challenge here is that you take 1 bulb that tests as 2,000 Lumen in the sphere, and put it in a Toyota 4Runner headlight, it will measure 800 max Lux at a 25' distance. But then that same bulb will make 1,700 max Lux in a new Ram headlight... So how is talking about Lumen even useful? Lastly, I agree with you 100% about using multiple Lux meters on the wall to test for a range, the challenge there (and why we don't do it) is it's much more difficult to communicate to the end user. People will be lost in a sea of data and will be very confused. We've been thinking about how to make an "HR Tested" Rating system of some kind that uses a ratio but until then we've stuck to these two characteristics to help people understand what the best beam is: Max Lux + a beam pattern that most closely resembles the stock beam pattern. We believe that these two characteristics, judged and rated, will inevitably arm the viewer with the same amount of useful information as a much more complex testing scenario. For the scientists in the room, doing a proper NHTSA type test makes a lot more sense, but for the common consumer just trying to get a headlight bulb that will let them see better at night, and not be a total waste of money, I think our presentation makes sense. I'd love to hear more of your perspective! Thanks for watching and thanks for the good conversation. -Chris Nelson
@@HeadlightRevolution Thanks for your reply. I think lux + similar pattern is a good start, but I think an average of multiple lux measurements at set points would quantity that pattern into a single objective number that would be easy to understand but also easy for the user to use to compare bulbs. I think this would avoid confusion about certain bulbs' output, such as in another video where a bulb was listed as 13% brighter but was clearly less bright overall. I'm also curious if you're using the same camera settings (like exposure and white balance) across all bulbs. In the videos the ~6,500 K bulbs look pure white when they would be expected to look blueish, and the halogen looks extremely orange. Could the white balance be adjusted to reflect the actual color temp?
@@Nayr747 Very good conversation! I love the intelligent questions and critics AND also the intelligent answers! Please continue! I'm also curious for the white balance point and do you use the same exposure, white balance and all the other settings? I think the must be exactly the same in all videos!
THank you for your help. all this information has been making life so much easier when it comes to good quality light. I have the V4 in my Sierra ... love them
As always...very professional work!Nice fillers...and always a proven point for the consumers!I wonder how much was the difference in operating temperature beetwin them!I drove my Mazda 2 DE with H4 110w halogen bulbs and i believe that the generated heat...made a little damage to the inside of the headlight,without any significant increase to the light output!After those i purchased the IPF 341HLB and the results in low/high were unbelievable in this housing.They are running for 3 years now perfeclty!Is it possible to include them in some future test???
This is exactly what I've been wondering lately! Could you do a follow-up video regarding the wiring upgrades that need to be done for safely using higher wattage bulbs?
You won't need to worry about wiring! Just be concious that a higher wattage bulb provides more heat, and in a small application can cause heat damage.
You ABSOLUTELY DO need to eorry about wiring. He is 100% WRONG about we not worrying about it. MANY vehicles 7se like 18 awg wire, which is tiny. You can buy a 14 or 12 gaugr wiring harness that installs super easy in about 10 mins. After that, install your high wattage halogens and you're set. Or, try the bukbs first on your old wiring, then compare to after wiring upgrade, then tell me that you don't have to worry Annie wiring. He's full of shit on this topic.
@@akdomun NO, do not listen to him about NJ it upgradibg the wiring. All you need is a $20 wiring harness wuth 12 or 14 awg wire. It only takes like 10 mins to install, and the bulbs are only like $10 each! Not $200 LED'S he is trying to sell you
I am always wondering how many volt are use in your video. Because for an halogen bulb voltage is critical but for led its not. For example if you compare you car holgen bulb engine off 12.6v vs engine on 13.8v its a big difference just with the naked eye and even bigger on high watts bulb. If someone wants the true power of a halogen bulb they need to wire the light straight to the battery with a big wire and a relay bridge to mitigate voltage drop that paired with a 100w bulb its insane perfect cutt off line with plenty of light output . for led the voltage doesn't mather 11.8 or 13.8 its the same they work or they don't . i have seen reading of 2000 lux for a osram super bright 90w h4
We use a non-adjustable 100w power supply with a voltage output of 13.8, like it should be - so we're good there. About the Lux reading though, we can make the Lux brighter or dimmer just by changing the distance from the test surface. It's not a good idea to compare Lux from one video to the next because if the testing environments are different you'll get Apples-to-Oranges results. You should only compare Lux results from one test for reference. Don't think about the actual Lux numbers, think about the percent change.
When altering factory lighting quite often the factory wiring is inadequate which causes amperage loss and wire failure . But more important is to make sure the relay is powerful enough to handle the extra draw .
I would love to see someone put that 100W Halogen in a system designed for a 55W bulb. You would quickly get to see the magic smoke escape from the wires.
@@bonkeydollocks1879 Not yet. Usually it takes out the plugs first. The bulbs get so hot it melts the plastic plugs and eventually they start to short out. Then it will start to melt the wiring if not fixed quickly. The original wiring (for a 55w bulb) was designed for a bulb that consumes about 4.6 amps but when you up it to 100w it almost doubles the amperage to 8.4. Eventually it will damage something and that is usually the wiring and / or the plugs. There is a reason that many places sell (and recommend) upgraded wiring when running higher wattage bulbs.
@@nathan.brazil780 I don't buy into it, have upgraded all of my 15 cars in the past 35 years and not one single problem, nor my friends have had a problem. I'm sticking with 100watts and no upgrade wiring thanks. The stats speak for themselves.
I really wish you would tell your viewers that any type of blue-ish light is terrible for visibility. The blue wavelengths diffract and refract more than longer wavelengths, which means that 1) they scatter on the way down the road, causing more glare for on-coming drivers and less light reaching the target, 2) they scatter on the way back from the target, compounding the reduction in the quantity of light reaching your eyes, and 3) all that scatter results in "veiling" glare that further obscures visibility. (They do light up reflective targets like road signs very well, which makes them seem superficially brighter from the driver's perspective, but it's the un-lit stuff *on* the road, or at the side of the road, that really needs to be seen better, and these bulbs are actually worse in that regard). Something in the 4300k-5000k range is much better suited to headlamp use.
Glenn, this is the info we teach about color: ruclips.net/video/8v4QgnPLjVU/видео.html We can't share every single aspect of lighting in every single video.
great info as always but I do have a question about the heat dissipation of LEDs. I have an FRS for context but the OEM bulbs are behind a rubber cap that has a small hole for the wiring to come out. I imagine this rubber cap is to keep dust and moisture out of the headlights (and possibly to prevent fogging). If I upgrade to LED, I don't think there will be much room for the whole unit to be inside the rubber cap which would lead me to keep the headlights open from behind. Even if I were to find an LED that has flexible metal heat sinks that does fit behind the cap, would the lack of air flow kill the light or maybe even get hot enough to melt the housing?
From personal experience LED does not throw light as far as the halogen, LED might be brighter at 25 ft which works fine for low beam but with high beam I have tried Supernova V4 but decided to go back to halogen, I am currently using hella high wattage (100w) 9005/HB3 that gets power directly from the battery with 12 or 14 gauge wire harness that i made myself, I also read that 9011/HIR1 perform a tap better then the 100w so I am planing on ordering a set of 9011 shortly, and supposedly the new sylvania 9011 design is better then wagner/philips. more on syvania 9011 bulb www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/leds/1463925-supernova-v4-and-clones
Its not about how much brightness or how much light though. Its about how much you can see. The only real test is out in the open with something to look at and compare what and where you can see a target. Halogen even when producing less light still often help you see more than brighter lights. This is partly because of color and beam control getting the light to where you need it. Like you said it depends on what bulb you compare too.
You need to do a comparison of color temperature vs visibility. Lux is an absolute brightness measure, but does not account for the sensitivity of the human eye to certain wavelengths.. I can "see" better with a 4300k color, but lower Lux bulb vs a 6500k, higher lux bulb. This is especially true on wet roads, where the more blue light from 6500k emitters just doesn't look like much at all.. Is there a way you can lock exposure and maybe play with color filters on your camera lenses to simulate the human eye response, or failing that, at least provide info on which of the brands you review have alternate color temp choices?
As said LED’s are definitely brighter but only in clear nights. I drive in Canada in snow squalls, dense fog and heavy rain most part of the year for which LED’s doesn’t cut through. Snow and fog are white and LED light beam is also white which makes a white-out bright appearance and makes visibility worse. But halogen bulb gives the yellow tone around 3200kelvin to 3500 kelvin and cut through these obstacles improving the visibility. I installed LED’s in my 2018 RAV4 and ended up in ditch due to 0 visibility in a snow storm. Now I switched back to an upgraded halogen bulb- Vosla which is manufactured in Germany. These bulbs gives 3000lumens brightness with 3450kelvin tone which is bright enough and I am happy with its performance!
I've used the the 100W halogen bulbs before the problem with them is the current draw is too high and you wind up after while melting the plug connector and wires that are not designed to handle the 7.5A draw for long periods of driving. The led's are the superior replacement much more light output with lower amperage.
I've been using the Philips rally vision 100 watt bulbs for 8 years now and I've never had any issues at all in my Milan. I've also never found any bulb brighter in a projector beam.
@@billyhw5492 Blinding on coming traffic. Depends on your vehicle though. I have a 93 Honda Accord with glass headlights and the beams project low and doesn't blind other drivers. Never been flashed once.
It's not just brightness at source. What about color temperature, yellow lights penetrate rain and fog better. What about beam pattern? Housings designed for halogens work best with halogens, even if you think led pattern is good, you'll find people flashing their lights at you.
We have different videos for those different applications or factors of lighting, this is just comparing LED bulbs directly to the 100W halogen bulbs. Let us know if you have any other questions!
I will like to see the Sylvania/OSRAM LED fog lights. I saw them at an Oreilly's . I will like to see them working and if I'm will be able to use them on the headlights (low).
Outdoor tests will give much clearer picture than searching for the brightest hotspot. How wide and usable the hotspot is on open road really matters during driving.
Hey there.. i wanted to know which one's good for motorcycles. Planning to upgrade from stock bulb to either an LED or an HID kit. It will be really helpful if you do a similar video on motorcycle lighting. The H4 kind. Btw awesome content.
Philips HIR2 LL is 1340 lumens instead of standard HIR2 OSRAM 1875 lumens but 4x longer life. Typical 9005 is for high beam with 1700 lumens 250 hours lifespan, meanwhile HIR2 1875 lumens, 500 hours and LL HIR2 Philips 1340 lumens, 2000 hours. All of these bulbs are not DOT approved including any LED. The 100 watt Rally vision is pretty cheap for occasional usage but I cannot find the lifespan of this bulb. Probably for typical Rally, or each race.
Isn't the correct upgrade for 9005 bulbs the 9011? I did the same thing for my Elantra and noticed a significant increase in light, I also have the S V.4 bulbs coming soon to compare
Hey I purchased two pairs. 1. Watt 60w (30w/ bulb) & Lumens 6000LM 2. Watt 50w (25w/ bulb) & Lumens 5000LM I obviously want high visibility but dont want to blind on coming drivers - what do you suggest?
How is in real situation? Driving state? I have high beam philips white ultra vision 55w and im so happy, so bright and white colour.. Good night vision. Even my friends asked me about this halogen bulbs. Also i have osram night breaker low beam,but not happy. Next time i will also use philips white ultra vision low beam. Also its important your reflector condition. Cheers.
How does the gtr lighting csp mini h7 compare to halogen h7 in a reflector housing? I'm looking to put it in my 2002 bmw r1150rt motorcycle headlight and the mini is once of very few that might fit.
My issue with LED is the glare that the white ones cause. The warmer color light of halogen does better in fog, snow, rain, dust, etc. because it creates less glare than bright white/blue hues that LEDs create. LED brightness is great in certain conditions but halogen does better in more conditions than LED. If companys would make a 4300k LED bulb with the proper chip/filament alignment as Halogen I would love to use them.
I don't see you using Philips Ultinon Led in any of your video's... Please help me out if Philips Ultinon Essentials led is better or Philips Ultinon led..... In India these are the only good options available easily. Reply would be appreciated.
9012 bulb is the replacement for the 9006 bulb? the 9011 would of been the one to test. that said, whats the recommended H4 LED. my tundra needs some better lighting. avalon with 9012s and 9011s im happy with.
So do xhp50/70 or mz based bulbs produce bad patterns or don't produce enough light or something? I have zes based bulbs in my prius and they're nice for low beams, but i feel like i'm missing something with the high beams.
In my opinion...LED is the best when used as the light source for low beam on reflector headlights. It is a lot brighter compared to 100w halogen bulb, power up instantly faster than a halogen bulb, consume alot less power than a halogen and almost no heat or harm caused to the reflector. The no 1 disadvantage of using 100watt halogen bulb, is the xtreme heat they produced. On so many occasions the heat of the 100watt halogen will melt the chrome reflector or causing the headlight plastic cover to become blurry and yellow ish. But. I like it when 100watt halogen being used as high beam on a reflector headlight. It is far better than LED+reflector as highbeam.
I love the GTR Ultra 2s. Very, very bright. I just wish they were 5000k instead of 6000k. IMO, the King is still OEM 4300K HID. Best color temperature for all weather conditions and is super bright.
I got nao LEDs on my Toyota auris n I HV to say they are crap light is all over the place no beam pattern neither it go far away I struggle tbh, n yea car got projector headlights, im seriously thinking about going back to halogen osrams were great deal but they were expensive n I kept blowing the bulbs somehow but since got LEDs no headache but the problems is no light any suggestions ??
If a 100 watt HID bulb is placed in a headlight fixture intended for a 55 watt HID bulb, the higher heat from the 100 watt can burn up or damage the reflector, greatly reducing the light output.
It’s not so much about brightness as it is about led light focus working in a halogen designed reflector for me.Im looking for a good compatible led that will work with my 2020 Tacoma reflectors.
Not sure what that even is honestly! Reach out to our CS team and give us some more info so we can help you! 218-755-5200 Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com
I am using Flosser 145w/100w for my Reversed Ultra High Wattage Forced Air cooled Triplet Halogen Headlights, in a 145w+100w+100w array for my high beams and 100w+90w+90w array for my low beams. The fence is down, since there is no glaring at all, (for the lows), the lumens are sky rocketed and the color frequency is the only eye relaxing, causing no problems at all to the eye retina, which is not the case with the XID, LED and Lasers. The Syncro Heresy
Hi, in my case, I have to choose either go blind with the reflection of my led lights or even the amber led when driving in fog, or using the Rally 100w halogen low beam and driving slow but at least I can see something. Is there a middle ground or a good setup recommended for scenarios where at night, its always pitch black, heavy rain and with ALOT, and I mean, 10 meters max visibility fog, and yes, this exists every day in a tropical country. I'm from Costa Rica and this is my daily drive, I have survived this far by learning the road and driving super slow to avoid suicide truck drivers..
We only have a couple of bulbs that go that low as far as wattage goes. I would recommend going with one of the Osram halogen bulbs, as they will provide you with a fantastic beam and color! I have linked those bulbs here: headlightrevolution.com/headlights/headlight-bulb-upgrades/halogen-headlight-bulbs/osram-halogen-headlight-bulbs/
So is there any thoughts of mixing the types of headlamps. The information I've gathered from your videos is that LEDs work great for the projector type and HIDs work great for the reflector type. Toyota 18' 4runner. I'm gonna use LEDs for the low beam and HIDs for the high beam. Thoughts and recommendations?
Personally I love running an HID low beam and an LED high beam. The LED high beam is awesome for the instant on, instant off factor. In your 4Runner, There are many good LED options in the low beam too so it’s a tough choice for sure! -Chris W
I’d run the GTR Lighting HID kit in the low beam and either the GTR Lighting Ultra Series 2 or the SV4 bulbs in the high beam. I like the GTR Lighting stuff just because they have a lifetime warranty, You’ll never have to spend money on lights again. Thank you for the continued support I really appreciate it! -Chris W
@@Factoryseconds123 Well, I'm not just getting information from HR. I have several vehicles I'd like to upgrade lighting on and if you have any input I'd appreciate it.
But one is way cheaper and way easier to install. And one is probably available at your local store. And one works with daytime running lights without extra work. LEDs are cool. They are brighter and last longer. But the good ones are also way more expensive and have issues in some aplications. Plusses and minus.
Hi bro, will I be able to use a H9 LED bulb meant for low beam in the high beam reflector housing? I'm driving a 2008 Mitsubishi grandis 2.4 and H9 halogen is stock for high beam in my car model. Would love to do an upgrade. I live in Singapore. As you know, we practise right-hand driving here and the low beam cut-off line is towards the left and not the right like in the US. Will ordering a LED bulb from Amazon be suitable for use in my car here? Appreciate your help, please. Thanks a million!
What bulb does your high beam take? If it takes an H8, H9, or H11, then you could use an H11 LED bulb. While I wouldn't personally recommend getting an LED bulb from Amazon, you sure could. Going with either the S-V.4 or the GTR Lighting Ultra 2 will have much better results than any bulbs from Amazon.
@@HeadlightRevolution Thanks much for your prompt and useful reply and info. My high beam takes an H9, so heeding your advice, I will go for an H11. May consider those two brands you recommended. Thanks again!
A wide range of LEDs should be very compatible with that system, I have no doubts the S-V.4 LEDs or the GTR Lighting Ultra 2 will work just fine! www.headlightrevolution.com/better_lighting_led/low_high_fogs
@@iIiWARHEADiIi not like led but I have seem them really close to 6k, my stock are 45k or similar. I put leds on the fog lights and Its 10x better and brighter
@@juanokiller I've bought 5k led lamp. Light was white, but from my personal filling it was giving twice less light than a warm led 2700k. Lamps had same lumens. I took my camera and made photos for both lamps in manual mode. For the camera leds were giving same illumination. Now I buy only leds with maximum 3000k color and do not do any experiments with light. Here is important personal filling, for me are suitable led with warm color.
If your car uses factory HID bulbs it is usually best to stick with HID. There aren’t many LED bulbs on the market that can properly fit a factory HID projector and produce a better beam pattern, Especially D series HID bulbs.
I’m confused. You just posted a video of the GTR Ultra 2 bulbs on a projector about two days ago that produced over 1000 lux, and now on this video they only produce 745 lux? What the difference? Theyre both projectors
My guess is that it depends on the internal design from the manufacturer which is why it varies. The 1000 lux was a toyota projector and the 780 lux is a dodge durango. That's still plenty bright for an led bulb. I know I'm getting the ultra 2s once they're released soon.
Okay cool, i have the 50W Morimoto HID kit a I was wondering if they’re worth changing to the GTR led’s, but since they’re not consistent i guess I will stick to the HID’s until further testing
I see tests about the gtr ultra serie 2 but on your website its the serie 3, do I am missing something? are you testing the ones you sale or I am lost? thanks.
When I checked 12v h1 55w halogen bulb in direct in battery it’s brightness is high but when I install on motorcycles it’s brightness is low why ? Even I used relay
That is due to the headlight housing, and the beam that is directed out of that housing. Do you have a projector on your motocycle? Shoot us an email and we will be happy to assist you with this! Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com
The color temperature that halogen bulbs put out certainly do help with rainy days. But when it's not raining, that's when the LEDs will be at their best!
His is all true. However, in real life driving conditions too much white light sort of distorts the image. A 100w high beam in the Ford for exam-le will allow some of that light to spread out and cause less strain on the eye... HR foreva!
@@HeadlightRevolution I thought wattage was the measure of heat? Shouldn't a 100w led and a 100w halogen and a 100w resistor all put out the same heat?
After watching you videos I am about 99% sure I'm going led. My question is how well they will hold up to bring on at lest 10hrs a day over rough roads in an old Kenworth.
They are absolutely made differently, but that doesnt mean that LEDs can't perform in a halogen application! Shoot us an email if you need any help getting a good recommendation! Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com
Yes, if you want my opinion, they are normally less bright or the same brightness as the original halogen bulb - not very good at increasing brightness.
Be very careful fitting 100w Rally bulbs. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT HAS THE PROPER GAUGE WIRE!!! Shit can burn out, like ignition switches and other switches.
I started using 100 watt bulbs in 1978. Thats when I discovered relays. I found that I had to increase the wire size to get the benefits from the brighter bulbs. I found my wipers went faster and my battery didn't discharge as fast. Didn't need the larger alternator. Used 14 then 12 gauge wire. The lights were twice as bright compared to the stock wiring.
That can be a massive upgrade, Especially on older vehicles with older wiring!
2.5mm² wires
Email us at Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com, There are a couple of options available for you.
jesus 100 watts, you leave your lights on for 2 minutes without your car running and you won't be able to start it back up! Great video.
or melt the headlight, some cars are more frigile at this, we're not all living in America
@@evronetwork The United States of America is the only country in this world.
Haha then you have a pretty shitty battery thats needs to be replaced :p
@@bjrnthomassen8955 or a lightweight supercap.
Typical car battery would last ~5 hours @ 100 watts if my quick google is correct
Could you test some H4 lowbeam/highbeam options in a reflector headlight
Not trying to spam your videos, but the way you keep characterising lux and lumens isn't correct at all. Lumens isn't "theoretical". It's actually what you're trying to claim lux is: the real world light output. It doesn't matter if a bulb outputs a massive amount of light at a single point, like a laser pointer. That doesn't help me see the whole road. What matters is the total light output, which is measured in lumens not lux.
I understand the reason you're not testing lumens is it's much more expensive and difficult. So to compromise I would suggest marking maybe 5 locations on your wall and using your lux meter on them. Then you could give a spot measurement at the central, brightest point and an average of all of them that would approximate total light output.
When we say Lumen is theoretical you need to consider the context. Sure, Lumen can be tested to be a real number, but in the automotive lighting world VERY FEW companies do. Vision X, Rigid Industries, JW Speaker and Diode Dynamics are the only companies I can think of off the top of my head who publish ACTUAL tested Lumen numbers. The other 10,000 random light bulb companies out there take the theoretical maximum Lumen from an individual chip and multiply it by how many chips are on the product - Voila! The theoretical max lumen rating.
Secondly, we could get an integrating sphere and do a Lumen test to verify everyone's information, but I don't believe it would be very useful. Lumen is the total brightness created by the light source. Lux is the measurement of how that light gets used and how effective it is at a certain point in space. The challenge here is that you take 1 bulb that tests as 2,000 Lumen in the sphere, and put it in a Toyota 4Runner headlight, it will measure 800 max Lux at a 25' distance. But then that same bulb will make 1,700 max Lux in a new Ram headlight... So how is talking about Lumen even useful?
Lastly, I agree with you 100% about using multiple Lux meters on the wall to test for a range, the challenge there (and why we don't do it) is it's much more difficult to communicate to the end user. People will be lost in a sea of data and will be very confused. We've been thinking about how to make an "HR Tested" Rating system of some kind that uses a ratio but until then we've stuck to these two characteristics to help people understand what the best beam is: Max Lux + a beam pattern that most closely resembles the stock beam pattern. We believe that these two characteristics, judged and rated, will inevitably arm the viewer with the same amount of useful information as a much more complex testing scenario.
For the scientists in the room, doing a proper NHTSA type test makes a lot more sense, but for the common consumer just trying to get a headlight bulb that will let them see better at night, and not be a total waste of money, I think our presentation makes sense.
I'd love to hear more of your perspective! Thanks for watching and thanks for the good conversation.
-Chris Nelson
Nayr got own! Lol
@@HeadlightRevolution Thanks for your reply. I think lux + similar pattern is a good start, but I think an average of multiple lux measurements at set points would quantity that pattern into a single objective number that would be easy to understand but also easy for the user to use to compare bulbs.
I think this would avoid confusion about certain bulbs' output, such as in another video where a bulb was listed as 13% brighter but was clearly less bright overall.
I'm also curious if you're using the same camera settings (like exposure and white balance) across all bulbs. In the videos the ~6,500 K bulbs look pure white when they would be expected to look blueish, and the halogen looks extremely orange. Could the white balance be adjusted to reflect the actual color temp?
@@Nayr747 Very good conversation! I love the intelligent questions and critics AND also the intelligent answers! Please continue! I'm also curious for the white balance point and do you use the same exposure, white balance and all the other settings? I think the must be exactly the same in all videos!
@@Nayr747 There is a frequency shifting due to camera inaccuracies?
THank you for your help. all this information has been making life so much easier when it comes to good quality light.
I have the V4 in my Sierra ... love them
As always...very professional work!Nice fillers...and always a proven point for the consumers!I wonder how much was the difference in operating temperature beetwin them!I drove my Mazda 2 DE with H4 110w halogen bulbs and i believe that the generated heat...made a little damage to the inside of the headlight,without any significant increase to the light output!After those i purchased the IPF 341HLB and the results in low/high were unbelievable in this housing.They are running for 3 years now perfeclty!Is it possible to include them in some future test???
This is exactly what I've been wondering lately! Could you do a follow-up video regarding the wiring upgrades that need to be done for safely using higher wattage bulbs?
You won't need to worry about wiring! Just be concious that a higher wattage bulb provides more heat, and in a small application can cause heat damage.
@@HeadlightRevolution Are you absolutely sure about this? No wiring upgrade needed for going from 55w to 100w? That's good news for me
You ABSOLUTELY DO need to eorry about wiring. He is 100% WRONG about we not worrying about it. MANY vehicles 7se like 18 awg wire, which is tiny. You can buy a 14 or 12 gaugr wiring harness that installs super easy in about 10 mins. After that, install your high wattage halogens and you're set. Or, try the bukbs first on your old wiring, then compare to after wiring upgrade, then tell me that you don't have to worry Annie wiring. He's full of shit on this topic.
@@akdomun NO, do not listen to him about NJ it upgradibg the wiring. All you need is a $20 wiring harness wuth 12 or 14 awg wire. It only takes like 10 mins to install, and the bulbs are only like $10 each! Not $200 LED'S he is trying to sell you
I am always wondering how many volt are use in your video. Because for an halogen bulb voltage is critical but for led its not. For example if you compare you car holgen bulb engine off 12.6v vs engine on 13.8v its a big difference just with the naked eye and even bigger on high watts bulb. If someone wants the true power of a halogen bulb they need to wire the light straight to the battery with a big wire and a relay bridge to mitigate voltage drop that paired with a 100w bulb its insane perfect cutt off line with plenty of light output . for led the voltage doesn't mather 11.8 or 13.8 its the same they work or they don't . i have seen reading of 2000 lux for a osram super bright 90w h4
We use a non-adjustable 100w power supply with a voltage output of 13.8, like it should be - so we're good there. About the Lux reading though, we can make the Lux brighter or dimmer just by changing the distance from the test surface. It's not a good idea to compare Lux from one video to the next because if the testing environments are different you'll get Apples-to-Oranges results. You should only compare Lux results from one test for reference. Don't think about the actual Lux numbers, think about the percent change.
When altering factory lighting quite often the factory wiring is inadequate which causes amperage loss and wire failure . But more important is to make sure the relay is powerful enough to handle the extra draw .
I would love to see someone put that 100W Halogen in a system designed for a 55W bulb. You would quickly get to see the magic smoke escape from the wires.
The relay handles it don't worry
@@bonkeydollocks1879 Relay is irrelevant if the wiring is too small to handle the load.
@@nathan.brazil780 my 100watts halogen replacement been in for two years now, no smoke.
@@bonkeydollocks1879 Not yet. Usually it takes out the plugs first. The bulbs get so hot it melts the plastic plugs and eventually they start to short out. Then it will start to melt the wiring if not fixed quickly.
The original wiring (for a 55w bulb) was designed for a bulb that consumes about 4.6 amps but when you up it to 100w it almost doubles the amperage to 8.4. Eventually it will damage something and that is usually the wiring and / or the plugs.
There is a reason that many places sell (and recommend) upgraded wiring when running higher wattage bulbs.
@@nathan.brazil780 I don't buy into it, have upgraded all of my 15 cars in the past 35 years and not one single problem, nor my friends have had a problem. I'm sticking with 100watts and no upgrade wiring thanks. The stats speak for themselves.
I really wish you would tell your viewers that any type of blue-ish light is terrible for visibility. The blue wavelengths diffract and refract more than longer wavelengths, which means that 1) they scatter on the way down the road, causing more glare for on-coming drivers and less light reaching the target, 2) they scatter on the way back from the target, compounding the reduction in the quantity of light reaching your eyes, and 3) all that scatter results in "veiling" glare that further obscures visibility. (They do light up reflective targets like road signs very well, which makes them seem superficially brighter from the driver's perspective, but it's the un-lit stuff *on* the road, or at the side of the road, that really needs to be seen better, and these bulbs are actually worse in that regard).
Something in the 4300k-5000k range is much better suited to headlamp use.
Glenn, this is the info we teach about color: ruclips.net/video/8v4QgnPLjVU/видео.html
We can't share every single aspect of lighting in every single video.
great info as always but I do have a question about the heat dissipation of LEDs. I have an FRS for context but the OEM bulbs are behind a rubber cap that has a small hole for the wiring to come out. I imagine this rubber cap is to keep dust and moisture out of the headlights (and possibly to prevent fogging). If I upgrade to LED, I don't think there will be much room for the whole unit to be inside the rubber cap which would lead me to keep the headlights open from behind. Even if I were to find an LED that has flexible metal heat sinks that does fit behind the cap, would the lack of air flow kill the light or maybe even get hot enough to melt the housing?
Apples to oranges. A 9012 is a low beam. 9005 is a high beam. Should have used a 9011 for a more accurate test
I’m also very surprised a headlight channel doesn’t know this.
From personal experience LED does not throw light as far as the halogen, LED might be brighter at 25 ft which works fine for low beam but with high beam I have tried Supernova V4 but decided to go back to halogen, I am currently using hella high wattage (100w) 9005/HB3 that gets power directly from the battery with 12 or 14 gauge wire harness that i made myself, I also read that 9011/HIR1 perform a tap better then the 100w so I am planing on ordering a set of 9011 shortly, and supposedly the new sylvania 9011 design is better then wagner/philips. more on syvania 9011 bulb www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/leds/1463925-supernova-v4-and-clones
@@fadetoblack51 This is an advertising channel. For generating sales.
Its not about how much brightness or how much light though. Its about how much you can see. The only real test is out in the open with something to look at and compare what and where you can see a target. Halogen even when producing less light still often help you see more than brighter lights. This is partly because of color and beam control getting the light to where you need it. Like you said it depends on what bulb you compare too.
good comment
Chris you speak so well I enjoy your videos. Learned a lot thanks.
You need to do a comparison of color temperature vs visibility. Lux is an absolute brightness measure, but does not account for the sensitivity of the human eye to certain wavelengths.. I can "see" better with a 4300k color, but lower Lux bulb vs a 6500k, higher lux bulb. This is especially true on wet roads, where the more blue light from 6500k emitters just doesn't look like much at all.. Is there a way you can lock exposure and maybe play with color filters on your camera lenses to simulate the human eye response, or failing that, at least provide info on which of the brands you review have alternate color temp choices?
As said LED’s are definitely brighter but only in clear nights. I drive in Canada in snow squalls, dense fog and heavy rain most part of the year for which LED’s doesn’t cut through. Snow and fog are white and LED light beam is also white which makes a white-out bright appearance and makes visibility worse. But halogen bulb gives the yellow tone around 3200kelvin to 3500 kelvin and cut through these obstacles improving the visibility. I installed LED’s in my 2018 RAV4 and ended up in ditch due to 0 visibility in a snow storm. Now I switched back to an upgraded halogen bulb- Vosla which is manufactured in Germany. These bulbs gives 3000lumens brightness with 3450kelvin tone which is bright enough and I am happy with its performance!
I've used the the 100W halogen bulbs before the problem with them is the current draw is too high and you wind up after while melting the plug connector and wires that are not designed to handle the 7.5A draw for long periods of driving. The led's are the superior replacement much more light output with lower amperage.
I've been using the Philips rally vision 100 watt bulbs for 8 years now and I've never had any issues at all in my Milan. I've also never found any bulb brighter in a projector beam.
So pretty much reflector housing will blow away projectors with hids and leds with the lumens they put out.
So what is the point of those expensive projector headlamp assemblies? Seems like reflectors are better and cheaper to boot.
@@billyhw5492 Blinding on coming traffic. Depends on your vehicle though. I have a 93 Honda Accord with glass headlights and the beams project low and doesn't blind other drivers. Never been flashed once.
It's not just brightness at source. What about color temperature, yellow lights penetrate rain and fog better. What about beam pattern? Housings designed for halogens work best with halogens, even if you think led pattern is good, you'll find people flashing their lights at you.
We have different videos for those different applications or factors of lighting, this is just comparing LED bulbs directly to the 100W halogen bulbs. Let us know if you have any other questions!
I installed Hella 100/80 halogens amd my horrible headlights are actually useful now. No problems with wiring so far.
That's awesome!
I will like to see the Sylvania/OSRAM LED fog lights. I saw them at an Oreilly's . I will like to see them working and if I'm will be able to use them on the headlights (low).
This informative video magically helped me get my girl pregnant. Now, just need to figure out how to tell her husband
We might need a warning label on our videos in the future!
@@HeadlightRevolution
( = :
If you want to use 100w bulb..make sure you use ceramic socket because standard socket can melt because of the heat.
damn is so true lol
can you do a review and comparison of Philips 130/100 H4 bulbs?
Outdoor tests will give much clearer picture than searching for the brightest hotspot. How wide and usable the hotspot is on open road really matters during driving.
You're right!
The lux (symbol: lx) is the SI derived unit of illuminance, measuring luminous flux per unit area.
Thanks for commenting! If you have any questions just let us know! Have a great day!
Hey there.. i wanted to know which one's good for motorcycles. Planning to upgrade from stock bulb to either an LED or an HID kit. It will be really helpful if you do a similar video on motorcycle lighting. The H4 kind. Btw awesome content.
Send us an email to Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com with your motorcycle info and we’ll help you out with a few options! Thank you for watching.
Philips HIR2 LL is 1340 lumens instead of standard HIR2 OSRAM 1875 lumens but 4x longer life. Typical 9005 is for high beam with 1700 lumens 250 hours lifespan, meanwhile HIR2 1875 lumens, 500 hours and LL HIR2 Philips 1340 lumens, 2000 hours. All of these bulbs are not DOT approved including any LED. The 100 watt Rally vision is pretty cheap for occasional usage but I cannot find the lifespan of this bulb. Probably for typical Rally, or each race.
Need to test the newer X9 LED.
Isn't the correct upgrade for 9005 bulbs the 9011? I did the same thing for my Elantra and noticed a significant increase in light, I also have the S V.4 bulbs coming soon to compare
Hayden Marsh yup
Is the narva range power blue 90/100w H4 good ?
Is it blowing view of incoming cars ?
Hey I purchased two pairs.
1. Watt 60w (30w/ bulb) & Lumens 6000LM
2. Watt 50w (25w/ bulb) & Lumens 5000LM
I obviously want high visibility but dont want to blind on coming drivers - what do you suggest?
Great vid, very informative 👏🙌
Glad it was helpful!
Try to measure the light from 500meters away. That will tell the difference.
How is in real situation? Driving state? I have high beam philips white ultra vision 55w and im so happy, so bright and white colour.. Good night vision. Even my friends asked me about this halogen bulbs. Also i have osram night breaker low beam,but not happy. Next time i will also use philips white ultra vision low beam. Also its important your reflector condition. Cheers.
Osram Rallye OR Phillips Rally is a better performer?
How does the gtr lighting csp mini h7 compare to halogen h7 in a reflector housing? I'm looking to put it in my 2002 bmw r1150rt motorcycle headlight and the mini is once of very few that might fit.
My issue with LED is the glare that the white ones cause. The warmer color light of halogen does better in fog, snow, rain, dust, etc. because it creates less glare than bright white/blue hues that LEDs create. LED brightness is great in certain conditions but halogen does better in more conditions than LED. If companys would make a 4300k LED bulb with the proper chip/filament alignment as Halogen I would love to use them.
The glare isn't determined by the color.
@@HeadlightRevolution Elaborate please.
I don't see you using Philips Ultinon Led in any of your video's... Please help me out if Philips Ultinon Essentials led is better or Philips Ultinon led..... In India these are the only good options available easily. Reply would be appreciated.
I'm driving a 2015 Chrysler 200 and the lights just suck for distance and brightness. Can you help on finding a replacement for the halogen bulbs?
Hi I have 50W halogen in fog lamp want to upgrade to 100w led per pc , do I need to change the wiring of foglamp ? Helogen to higher watt led
9012 bulb is the replacement for the 9006 bulb? the 9011 would of been the one to test. that said, whats the recommended H4 LED. my tundra needs some better lighting. avalon with 9012s and 9011s im happy with.
So do xhp50/70 or mz based bulbs produce bad patterns or don't produce enough light or something? I have zes based bulbs in my prius and they're nice for low beams, but i feel like i'm missing something with the high beams.
have you tried the led headlights philips ultinon ??? what is your opinion?? or compared to the gtr??
In my opinion...LED is the best when used as the light source for low beam on reflector headlights.
It is a lot brighter compared to 100w halogen bulb, power up instantly faster than a halogen bulb, consume alot less power than a halogen and almost no heat or harm caused to the reflector.
The no 1 disadvantage of using 100watt halogen bulb, is the xtreme heat they produced.
On so many occasions the heat of the 100watt halogen will melt the chrome reflector or causing the headlight plastic cover to become blurry and yellow ish.
But. I like it when 100watt halogen being used as high beam on a reflector headlight.
It is far better than LED+reflector as highbeam.
You go to hell with your blinding LED low beams!
I just want an upgrade for my factory 2014 F150 HID. What should I do
please review Novsight N30B led in different headlight housing
Which bulb are the brightest for 2019 Dodge Ram reflector housing either Hid or Led?
LED performs extremely well in those trucks, We have a few videos on the 2019 Ram on our channel!
I love the GTR Ultra 2s. Very, very bright. I just wish they were 5000k instead of 6000k. IMO, the King is still OEM 4300K HID. Best color temperature for all weather conditions and is super bright.
4300k is a great color!
I looked through your website for an LED replacement for bulbs on a 93 Silverado but your coverages don’t got back very far.
I got nao LEDs on my Toyota auris n I HV to say they are crap light is all over the place no beam pattern neither it go far away I struggle tbh, n yea car got projector headlights, im seriously thinking about going back to halogen osrams were great deal but they were expensive n I kept blowing the bulbs somehow but since got LEDs no headache but the problems is no light any suggestions ??
If a 100 watt HID bulb is placed in a headlight fixture intended for a 55 watt HID bulb, the higher heat from the 100 watt can burn up or damage the reflector, greatly reducing the light output.
That is correct, That’s a big reason why we don’t see 100w HID setups on the market.
What's the best led lights for 2017 durango?
It’s not so much about brightness as it is about led light focus working in a halogen designed reflector for me.Im looking for a good compatible led that will work with my 2020 Tacoma reflectors.
At what distance did you measure the brightness/Lux ? And was this testing done using a single headlight or a pair of headlights ?
25 ft!
One headlight!
Awesome video!!
Thanks for watching!
Please check fitment of GTR ultra 2 and SV-4 on 2020 4Runner low beam headlights. Thank you
We have tested this! (:
What led modle you recommend for mahindra kuv100 (2021) ?
Not sure what that even is honestly!
Reach out to our CS team and give us some more info so we can help you!
218-755-5200
Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com
Please compare:
Halogen: Wurth (Four Season) H4 140W/100W
Vs
LED: GTR Lightning Ultra 2
140w? wtf, I'd love to see a 100w led ...damn it would be making the night look like day
@@evronetwork 140W high beam/100W low beam
I am using Flosser 145w/100w for my Reversed Ultra High Wattage Forced Air cooled Triplet Halogen Headlights, in a 145w+100w+100w array for my high beams and 100w+90w+90w array for my low beams. The fence is down, since there is no glaring at all, (for the lows), the lumens are sky rocketed and the color frequency is the only eye relaxing, causing no problems at all to the eye retina, which is not the case with the XID, LED and Lasers.
The Syncro Heresy
Hi, in my case, I have to choose either go blind with the reflection of my led lights or even the amber led when driving in fog, or using the Rally 100w halogen low beam and driving slow but at least I can see something.
Is there a middle ground or a good setup recommended for scenarios where at night, its always pitch black, heavy rain and with ALOT, and I mean, 10 meters max visibility fog, and yes, this exists every day in a tropical country. I'm from Costa Rica and this is my daily drive, I have survived this far by learning the road and driving super slow to avoid suicide truck drivers..
Send us an email to sales@HeadlightRevolution.com and we will go over a few options with you that might make more sense for your vehicle.
Iv used osram night breaker laser and while they where brighter and a little whiter than stock they cant compare to a good LED and HID bulb.
question is how many amps it pulls from ur electrical system? and how much heat is it making, ? i mean 100 w its a lot...
7 amps
Which is the brightest and best 35watts halogen bulbs?
We only have a couple of bulbs that go that low as far as wattage goes. I would recommend going with one of the Osram halogen bulbs, as they will provide you with a fantastic beam and color!
I have linked those bulbs here: headlightrevolution.com/headlights/headlight-bulb-upgrades/halogen-headlight-bulbs/osram-halogen-headlight-bulbs/
Will there ever be a 3500-4000k led bulb? I don't like anything higher than that.
So is there any thoughts of mixing the types of headlamps. The information I've gathered from your videos is that LEDs work great for the projector type and HIDs work great for the reflector type.
Toyota 18' 4runner. I'm gonna use LEDs for the low beam and HIDs for the high beam.
Thoughts and recommendations?
Personally I love running an HID low beam and an LED high beam. The LED high beam is awesome for the instant on, instant off factor. In your 4Runner, There are many good LED options in the low beam too so it’s a tough choice for sure! -Chris W
@@HeadlightRevolution What brands would you recommend if I may ask?
@@HeadlightRevolution I had ordered a JW Speaker LED headlight for my bike from you guys and loved the service so I'm back.
I’d run the GTR Lighting HID kit in the low beam and either the GTR Lighting Ultra Series 2 or the SV4 bulbs in the high beam. I like the GTR Lighting stuff just because they have a lifetime warranty, You’ll never have to spend money on lights again. Thank you for the continued support I really appreciate it! -Chris W
@@Factoryseconds123 Well, I'm not just getting information from HR.
I have several vehicles I'd like to upgrade lighting on and if you have any input I'd appreciate it.
But one is way cheaper and way easier to install. And one is probably available at your local store. And one works with daytime running lights without extra work. LEDs are cool. They are brighter and last longer. But the good ones are also way more expensive and have issues in some aplications. Plusses and minus.
hello chris that led you recommend me for a 2007 suburban that keeps the shadow looking white and not costing much, thanks
Send us an email at sales@HeadlightRevolution.com and we will go over some options with you!
How much watts are those LED? I haven't noticed you mentioning in your video
All the specs for each bulb we sell will be in their product listings! 🤙
How about on rain? LEDs perform poorly with rain here in the Philippines
Rain is tough with LED headlights, There are yellow fog light options available that work pretty well in the rain and snow. -Chris W
I want to replace my bulb to LED bulb, I have 2006 Ford Freestyle and 2010 Hyundai Tucson, what brand and type should I buy? Thanks
Send us an email at Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com and one of our lighting experts will put together some options for you and your vehicle.
What would be the best led for a Chevy Cruz 2019?
GTR Ultra 2.0!
Hi bro, will I be able to use a H9 LED bulb meant for low beam in the high beam reflector housing? I'm driving a 2008 Mitsubishi grandis 2.4 and H9 halogen is stock for high beam in my car model. Would love to do an upgrade. I live in Singapore. As you know, we practise right-hand driving here and the low beam cut-off line is towards the left and not the right like in the US. Will ordering a LED bulb from Amazon be suitable for use in my car here? Appreciate your help, please. Thanks a million!
What bulb does your high beam take? If it takes an H8, H9, or H11, then you could use an H11 LED bulb. While I wouldn't personally recommend getting an LED bulb from Amazon, you sure could. Going with either the S-V.4 or the GTR Lighting Ultra 2 will have much better results than any bulbs from Amazon.
@@HeadlightRevolution Thanks much for your prompt and useful reply and info. My high beam takes an H9, so heeding your advice, I will go for an H11. May consider those two brands you recommended. Thanks again!
Not a problem!
Is it advisable to change 60/55w halogens for leds 100w? My car uses 60/55w halogen.
Any LED that claims to be 100w is guaranteed to be a terrible bulb.
@@HeadlightRevolution which led do you recommend in watts to replace halogens 60/55??
A wide range of LEDs should be very compatible with that system, I have no doubts the S-V.4 LEDs or the GTR Lighting Ultra 2 will work just fine!
www.headlightrevolution.com/better_lighting_led/low_high_fogs
Another great video, thanks for the information.👍
What the power of the LEDs?
I'm sick and tired of my stock HIDs on my 12 odyssey, I'm trying to upgrade for better and brighter light, any suggestions?
Warm light? Hid give cold color.
@@iIiWARHEADiIi not like led but I have seem them really close to 6k, my stock are 45k or similar. I put leds on the fog lights and Its 10x better and brighter
@@juanokiller I've bought 5k led lamp. Light was white, but from my personal filling it was giving twice less light than a warm led 2700k. Lamps had same lumens. I took my camera and made photos for both lamps in manual mode. For the camera leds were giving same illumination. Now I buy only leds with maximum 3000k color and do not do any experiments with light.
Here is important personal filling, for me are suitable led with warm color.
My car came with H ID headlight bulbs so which is best LEDs
If your car uses factory HID bulbs it is usually best to stick with HID. There aren’t many LED bulbs on the market that can properly fit a factory HID projector and produce a better beam pattern, Especially D series HID bulbs.
I’m confused. You just posted a video of the GTR Ultra 2 bulbs on a projector about two days ago that produced over 1000 lux, and now on this video they only produce 745 lux? What the difference? Theyre both projectors
My guess is that it depends on the internal design from the manufacturer which is why it varies. The 1000 lux was a toyota projector and the 780 lux is a dodge durango. That's still plenty bright for an led bulb. I know I'm getting the ultra 2s once they're released soon.
Okay cool, i have the 50W Morimoto HID kit a I was wondering if they’re worth changing to the GTR led’s, but since they’re not consistent i guess I will stick to the HID’s until further testing
I see tests about the gtr ultra serie 2 but on your website its the serie 3, do I am missing something? are you testing the ones you sale or I am lost? thanks.
They are here: headlightrevolution.com/led-headlight-bulbs/gtr-lighting-ultra-series-2/
When I checked 12v h1 55w halogen bulb in direct in battery it’s brightness is high but when I install on motorcycles it’s brightness is low why ? Even I used relay
That is due to the headlight housing, and the beam that is directed out of that housing. Do you have a projector on your motocycle? Shoot us an email and we will be happy to assist you with this! Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com
What's recommended for a 2020 Fusion SE with projector style system?
HID for sure!
@@HeadlightRevolution which one?
I would recommend the GTR Lighting HID Kit!
I love halogen than led specially during rainy nights with a tainted car
The color temperature that halogen bulbs put out certainly do help with rainy days. But when it's not raining, that's when the LEDs will be at their best!
His is all true. However, in real life driving conditions too much white light sort of distorts the image. A 100w high beam in the Ford for exam-le will allow some of that light to spread out and cause less strain on the eye... HR foreva!
💜
What you're telling us is the housing can handle the heat from 100W. So where are the 100w hid and led options?
HID at 100w would melt your headlight housing for sure. Companies used to sell 75 watt kits and they ruined a lot of headlights.
@@HeadlightRevolution I thought wattage was the measure of heat? Shouldn't a 100w led and a 100w halogen and a 100w resistor all put out the same heat?
Need some H2 upgrades for the hella ralley lights. Anyone know where to find some?
Reach out to our CS team!
HR CS:
218-755-5200
Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com
After watching you videos I am about 99% sure I'm going led. My question is how well they will hold up to bring on at lest 10hrs a day over rough roads in an old Kenworth.
Just look at OEM led headlights, you can't even see the bulb. It's hidden somewhere behind, proving led reflectors are made different.
They are absolutely made differently, but that doesnt mean that LEDs can't perform in a halogen application! Shoot us an email if you need any help getting a good recommendation! Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com
Any videos on beam color and weather?
Not at the moment but we will add that to our video list!
A lot has to do with the lens, a bad design or aged lens make for dull beams
Lens makes a huge difference, You’re correct!
@@Factoryseconds123 true😷
@@Factoryseconds123 never knew that, lot of misleading info around led bulbs tbh
I can't fucking imagine ever going back to halogen candle dogshit after living with LEDs...
Can u test aes hella f1 lens
With osram night breaker laser
ThX
send link for GTR Ultra please wanna purchase it
Send us an email with your vehicle info to Sales@HeadlightRevolution.com and we will get you the correct Ultra 2 bulb for your vehicle.
Have you tested the Terminator series RS headlights
Yes, if you want my opinion, they are normally less bright or the same brightness as the original halogen bulb - not very good at increasing brightness.
I had bad experience with LED in terms of life of the bulbs
Gotta make sure you get LEDs that have quality heat dissipation, like fans!
please test KEON SONDRA LED. Best seller led in Philippines
They already tested xhp 70. They dont recommend.
Be very careful fitting 100w Rally bulbs. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT HAS THE PROPER GAUGE WIRE!!! Shit can burn out, like ignition switches and other switches.
*cough* fuse *cough*
True that! Wiring does need to be sufficient to run them!
I paid $52 for my sylvania halogen bulb and the are pretty dam bright white not the yellowish color
👍
If you have can you send me a link to the video
Well done and informative. So many worthless RUclips videos out there. Going for 100w based on this video. Thanks.
Glad that this video helped you out, thanks for commenting!