Quiet Your Home: Noise Reduction TIPS!
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- Опубликовано: 20 май 2024
- Rockwool Safe'n'Sound is a top choice for noise reduction in your home. In this episode, Matt showcases effective insulation and noise reduction techniques on a job site and reveals how these methods appear in his completed home project. Tune in to learn more!
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Something else you can do--and the cost is minimal--is use dissimilar glass on your windows. In my double-pane windows, I had the window manufacturer use 5mm glass on the inside of the IGUs, and 3mm on the exterior. Why? Sound can pass through just about every material. But with glass, only certain frequencies will pass through the glass based on the thickness. So the audio frequencies that pass through 3mm glass, don't generally pass through 5mm glass. The result is when my windows are closed, the exterior noise that makes it into the home is attenuated about 30 dB. This makes the home that much quieter.
That is interesting.
About the insulation, rockwool is better than foam in a very important way - Rockwool does not offgas like foam insulation does. Foam volatiles are harmful to health. Even behind sheetrock and paint, chemical foam vapors will end up in the house, and will for several years.
@@FLPhotoCatcherthis depends on the foam product. Look for ones rated UL GreenGuard.
Really interesting tip!
This works well. I recently finished a townhome project on a busy street and had Alpen Windows install the mismatched glass thickness. Everyone was pleased with the results.
Home Depot guy said this standard practice
Sound proofing can be done by decoupling and absorption. The rockwool is pretty good at absorption but does nothing for decoupling. The sound hits the sheetrock, the sheetrock vibrates, the sheetrock is screwed to the studs, the studs vibrate, then the sheetrock on the other side vibrates, and the sound got through. Also of course holes, like outlets, particularly if they are in the same stud bay. There are ways to decouple that are reasonably good and cheap, and then there are ways to really decouple that are expensive. A tough point is to consider that the floor and ceiling also vibrate, then the joists vibrate and carry the sound under and over the wall as well as to the rooms above and below. I built a sound "proof" theater and the room is literally a box inside my house. If you took the roof off, you could pick the room up with a crane and drop it off somewhere else. It floats on special rubber blocks (silomer) and has its own walls and ceiling that are only attached to the floor system. There is a 1/16 inch air gap at the entry passage and an exterior solid core door attached to the theater room side wall. All of my electrical boxes are surface mount. I used a special sheetrock (quiet rock) that is laminated with layers of a special decoupling caulk like material that acts as multiple layers of decoupling. And you use a special caulk in between the sheets that is just an awful mess to apply (it sticks to everything). I then filled the stud bays with rockwool. It works quite well. Only the lowest frequencies get through (the sub woofer) and only if it is pretty loud. My bedroom is below the theater and my kids can watch movies in there and I can't hear it unless there are big sub-woofer explosions. Those sound like a thunderstorm that is 100 miles away and you are asking yourself if you are really hearing it. I have read that one of the best materials to use is sand. It is extremely good at both absorbing sound and decoupling. But it is quite the challenge to build a room that is completely surrounded by sand without any attachments to the structure around it. The first row of sand grains absorb the sound, vibrate, and then rub on the sand grains next to them, transferring only some of the vibration (decoupling) but also losing energy via friction (absorption). After a couple inches of that, the sound energy has essentially all been lost to friction heating of the sand.
Amazing information! Thanks.
Sand is a great option because sound cannot pass through it. Neil deGrasse Tyson explains it in a video with Stephen Colbert:
'Is “Dune” A Perfect Movie? Neil deGrasse Tyson And Stephen Colbert'
Res channel is great for disruption.
You have any vids/articles on theater sound isolation? Building a 2nd floor home theater and wanting to build as good of a sound isolation room as I can
@@clw22580 Home Theater Gurus
I saw in some other video where a contractor did 2x4 studs 8 inches off center. The studs were offset on the base/top plates. Meaning The drywall on both sides of a wall had their own studs. The video said it helped eliminate sound transfer.
That takes up a ton of interior space, BUT is a very effective way to accomplish sound isolation. A cheaper (both in cost and quality) is to use special sound isolating drywall 'hangers' off the stud, creating a 1/8" gap between the sheet of drywall and the studs, which supposedly does a great job with sound isolation. I am not certain but I believe Jeff Geerling used this technique, check his video on soundproofing is office (moving 5) if you are interested.
@@DozIT doesn't take up that much more space. You just need a 2x6 bottom/top plate instead of a 2x4. So you're only losing 2"
@@DozIT Thank you.
I would say a 2x6 top and base plate instead of 2x8 would do the same thing and save more space. Maybe even rip it down to 2x5.
This is called a "staggered stud wall" and I've done this in my renovation. I used 150mm top and base plates with 100mm studs at 400mm centres each side (so a stud every 200mm). I can then weave acoustic insulation between them. I will also be doing a layer of OSB before the plasterboard without aligning the edges to further prevent acoustic penetration.
I haven't finished it yet, so I can't speak to the effectiveness but my reasearch indicates it should be really good.
When we finished our basement we walled in the mechanicals using several methods to isolate sound to the mechanical room. The walls were 2x6 plates with 2x4 studs that alternated front/back - each side was 24" on center. So no mechanical coupling between wall surfaces aside from top/bottom plates.
For mass-loaded vinyl a cheap alternative is ice-dam sheeting. We wove that through the studs, literally just hung and stuck (self-adhesive) to the studs. That formed a curtain of MLV inside the wall. On either side of that curtain went typical insulation, I forget which but it was a high-density fiberglass - shoulda gone rock-wool.
Finally, the 5/8" sheetrock was hung on Z-channel - these are Z-profile metal strips that are screwed into the studs horizontally, and the sheetrock is screwed into them. This provides an isolation layer between the sheetrock and the studs, really reducing sound transmission. Instead of a direct connection from sheetrock-to-stud-to-sheetrock, all three elements are isolated and dampened.
We built the door from scratch, mainly to make a 3" thick door. It was basically a sandwich, each door skin had a layer of ice-dam applied to the inner side. Inside the frame between the skins was a free-hanging double-layer of ice-dam (sticky side to stick-side). Between each skin and the inner curtain was pretty tightly packed high-density fiberglass. The frame had ice-dam on both sides, and the skins were glued (not nailed) to that. So through the outer edge of the door it went skin-icedam-glue-icedam-framewood-icedam-glue-icedam-skin.
Overkill ? Yup. But dang, when that furnace and air handler clicked on, you had to strain to hear it from the finished room down there.
I wish we could have done the flooring above, but it was already built. A buddy who built his house did a double subfloor ... The first layer was nailed to the joists as usual, but then there was a soft layer - literally a sponge-vinyl thing. Then the radiant floor heating subfloor layer, then the hardwood. The ceiling underneath was two layers of 1/2". The first layer screwed up to the joists as usual, then a special non-hardening adhesive (dunno which) and the second layer screwed only around the edges. The blobs of adhesive left maybe 1/4" between the sheetrock layers.
High-heel dancing on the floor above and you could barely hear a click downstairs. Was awesome.
I sit here today, May 29, 2024 watching this. I ordered 48 packs of Rockwool R15 Comfortbatt and paid for it on December 29, 2023 in person at Lowes Pro Desk in the Houston market. I've had sixteen delivery dates scheduled by Lowes, canceled and rescheduled due to product not arriving. My next proposed delivery date is June 6, 2024. Matt Risinger still promoting Rockwool yet the product availability for a retail buyer is ??? I don't know where the issue lies but between Rockwool and Lowes, two large and respectable companies, why can't either of you sort this out?
Great video 🙂 I learnt an acronym for noise treatment (specifically transmitted noise) many years ago: MADD, or Mass, Absorption, Decoupling and Damping.
More mass reduces noise because it has more momentum and it takes more energy to get it moving/vibrating. Especially good at attenuating high frequencies with their shorter wavelengths.
Absorption converts the acoustic energy into heat by creating a complex path for the sound energy to traverse. Open cell foam, rockwool, fibreglass wool all work well. Different materials absorb different frequencies, and often the thickness affects how much it attenuates, not the density. Closed cell foam doesn't work well because the "bubbles" compress and expand like little springs, transmitting the energy to neighbouring cells.
Decoupling physically separates transmissive surfaces, minimising transmission very effectively. There is another comment from apostolakisl that describes it very well.
Damping is similar to absorption, in that it converts the energy into heat, but the method is different. Damping introduces a flexible interface between hard surfaces to minimise transmission. An example would be to fix drywall to the studs using a flexible silicone adhesive and no screws at all, so that the vibration of the drywall sheet isn't transmitted to the underlying studs. On flooring, it could be laying something like rubber matting or styrofoam sheeting between the subfloor and the final floor treatment.
About a year ago, we refurbished a small apartment downstairs, using rockwool and double layers of sheeting, just like you mentioned. It’s been an incredible setup. Our tenants have hosted a few small parties, and I wasn’t even aware until the next day! Installing double sheets on the main walls and ceiling really made a difference. We also lowered the ceiling in the rental from 270 cm / (8.10 ish) to 240 cm packing it with rockwool and double sheeting for extra soundproofing.
This episode, hands down, is my favorite! 100%, one day, when I build I'll be planning forthis and using these materials. Too bad you're not in the Seattle area!
Another great video. Thank you. And thanks to your other videos I’m using Rockwool and 5/8 drywall everywhere in a new apartment remodel. I’d rather lean towards being “too quiet” than not quiet enough.
Love seeing this and definitely a fan, I've used some of your ideas in my house and I own a recording studio. Roxul is a solid choice for sound reduction, it works by creating friction with the sound waves (air) and slowing down the waves aka deadening the sound, In a recording studio or theater you typically don't cover it in sheet rock, usually fabric covered and other tricks to treat a room for sound specifically. Additionally, to isolate sound, you need mass in between, studios typically have an airlock and double wall though it depends on the studio, some have come up with really creative ideas to isolate sound. As far as spray foam it doesn't do much for sound unless it seals the air between rooms and it can potentially be toxic with isocyanates during the application and after if not fully reacted or in a fire also releases toxic gas. Roxul is mineral based and is nearly inflammable. Spray foam does have it's applications, I'd suggest air sealing with duct seal caulk and using roxul for the most eco friendly and best sound absorption. When you install sheetrock, you can also use RC channel and that can help reduce sound even though the sheet rock is reflective, there are also special sheet rocks at most sheet rock suppliers but not big box stores, they are typically sandwiched layers and thicker (more mass) Matt you should check out gearspace builds for commercial recording studios, there's alot of detail work that goes into a studio that could potentially help improve your builds : )
Thank You for this information!
For more about STL (sound transmission loss) and other noise isolation criteria and construction techniques I suggest The Master Handbook of Acoustics, Everest and Pohlmann, 7th Ed. Best US$40-ish you'll spend.
I have the same problem where my kids upstairs cant hear me. I got some cheap wireless doorbells for each of them and put the doorbell buttons inside a cabinet and the ringer in their rooms. Haven't had any issues since
That’s a good idea 👍🏼
I lut google home minis in each room. Then I just say "HEY GOOGLE, broadcast. DINNER IS READY"
Just get walkie-talkies, so much cooler. 😂
@@nopeunlimited if they didn't need to be charged every day it might be fun but the cost is also more then what I suggested
@@MtnXfreeride that is a nice solution 👍
another fantastic video!
YES!
this was a good one just for the exposure of new techniques and materials
Rockwool is good. I live in an old 1835 house that's been turned in to apartments. We're at the top of the house and have the whole loft space as our apartment, and there's two apartments below us. Right after buying we discovered the sound just traveled through the house, when people downstairs were talking in their apartments it was like they were in the next room with the door open. Could hear everything. Since we were taking the floorboards up to rewire we took the time to put 150mm of 45kg/m3 rockwool in the floor. It was a difficult space to soundproof because a large section of floor is not accessible due to the eves being boxed in, so I figured some sound would get up around the insulation. But we were careful to insulate as much as we could access and not have any gaps. It's a lot quieter now, and the voices we hear are very muffled, it's rare I even understand one word. So it's comfortable enough to live in with our neighbours generating reasonable amounts of noise and we all have our privacy now. In a new build or more intensive refurbishment I'm sure you could do better, but this is good enough for us. We've found it works very well for voices, TV, music. It doesn't work for anything that shakes the fabric of the house however, so we hear the snaps of the pull cord lightswitches downstairs the same as ever. Also, we have found some areas of this old house leak sound. In one flat our neighbours below have a fireplace and if they're next to it their voices travel up better. Thankfully they don't tend to talk loudly right next to it, but it's an example of how sound can travel around. As always ymmv, but it has worked nicely for us.
Great experiment! You got me into rockwool, and I've been installing it while renovating my house--big improvement on road noise. I second the resilient channel, though, since that's the only thing that will truly decouple vibrating ceilings and walls from framing.
I will only use Rockwool insulation. Not only sound proofing but for the water, fire, bug and rodent proofing. We're resheathing the mobile home I insulated this way right now and so far I've only found one mouse nest, it was new and it was abandoned.
Thanks for another timely topic! We'll be building in 2 years outside of Knoxville and this weighs heavily on my mind because I love listening to music and watching movies at 90dB+ via a $15k a/v system. I think I'll be isolating the walls and floor of the home theater room, using Rockwool and sound treatments plus incorporating either intercom or walkies to communicate with my wife downstairs.
I hope you have a decent builder - most around here seem to suck (we're in Seymour) - our 5 year old house is falling apart.
YES!!!
All the interior walls of my pre-war apartment in NYC are 1/2" celotex soundboard "lathe" nailed to both sides of studs, finished with 3/4" thick scratch coat and plaster. So quiet.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and keep your videos coming please.
been considering this when I build the last house.
Great timing. I was speaking to my contractor today about noise control. My office/studio will be directly above the master bedroom. I edit dialog at about 80db. I'd like to be able to work while my wife is sleeping. In your experiment, were you hearing the music through the floor, or from the door leakage? I plan to use 5/8" drywall with resilient channel and insulation in the ceiling, and then mass loaded vinyl under the carpet upstairs. I'll also install a solid door noise control stripping all around.
I wanna believe its dialog and not vipers reving at 6000rpm
We have Google Mini speakers in every room of our home. Super convenient to call the kids down for dinner. Unless, they’ve unplugged them to charge their phone. 😂😂😂
Can we get a short video on how your energy bills compare from the old leaky house to the real rebuild house since they were similar in size? Aside from the clear benefits to a healthier and quieter space, trying to get a better picture of how the higher build costs eventually trickle down into the lower monthly energy costs. I'd love to hear a nerd talk on avg energy usage and how increased air tightness and the processes followed in the real rebuild series translate in real dollars. Yes you will spend more initially but research/the findings say you should save x% all things being equal. We're going to start construction with a lot of these principles called out specifically because they are presented in a clear and honest framework that I and likely others appreciate!
New Englanders have the option of sonopan sheets. I found em to be too expensive to ship to California for a master bsuite remodel because I would have had to buy too much, but distribution is better in NE and should be considered by some for a slightly higher level than even this
My house is built the same and I did the Alexa thing. I put it in their light switch so I could make announcements and have a routine that slowly turn the lights on for them in the morning so they can get ready for school.
A house I worked on years ago was framed with 2x6 top and bottom plates with offset 2x4 studs.
We had to almost yell at each other to communicate after the Sheetrock was up to hear each other during the final phases of construction.
Recently redid our master bathroom and a complete guy. Did spray foam on the outer wall, and Rockwool Safe and sound on the inside wall where the kitchen is on the other side. Compared to the old way, which was just empty cavities, now hear barely anything from showers etc like we did before in the kitchen. I do wish I went 5/8 drywall though, never even though about it. Cost for the few sheets I used would of been minimal. I actually never knew about the thicker drywall until I watched a video on here, Too late mind you 🙂
Keep up the great content Matt
Any issue with 8 inch exterior walls with double 2x4 framing that is offset 8 in... Aside from cost of course?
I'm thinking 8 in of insulation with no solid connection between the interior and exterior of the wall
I just did something similar in my basement remodel - staggering my 2x4s in a 6-inch interior wall. Each side is effectively its own separate wall, sharing only a bottom plate and top plate. Then I stuffed in rockwool, sealed my boxes, and added solid core doors with barely any gap above the carpet. I was going to double up my 5/8 drywall with acoustic sealer in between, but I put that money into better subwoofers that are going to negate all my efforts anyway. 🤣
Good example testing. I wish I had stuck the rockwool in my office walls since I have a drum set in there.
And then there is the problem of being too quiet, or, spaces which have no outside "natural environment of sound" that is desirable but rather a sound problem around no sound. I would suggest folks who want to insulate for sound be careful. It seems easy enough to still get frequencies one would not like to hear in an otherwise quiet space. I say this because with various mechanicals in or near the space it is sometimes not a blessing to have the space be so contained, hence, the need for white noise.
For example, I live in a place that has some good outdoor sounds, particularly in the mornings and evenings. I have often thought would it not be smarter to capture some of those live sounds and have them be in my living space? This could be a subtle mic and speaker setup where those live ambient sounds good be filtered in but not give the impression of amplification. Muffling what otherwise might be healthy to hear outside in a closed off space is not an awesome solution. I think we have all heard from time to time a bird probably near an exhaust duct and wondering if the sound as it traveled say into the bathroom could not actually be taken advantage of more. Food for thought.
All in all so much attention is being given to sealing up spaces but with fresh air being mechanically delivered that the other component to comfort is actually having a living space and not a dead one.
When you live near an airport you tend to want to pick the sounds of silence over interrupting planes and neighbors dogs barking for hours on end. If I want sounds of nature I can play them and have a fish tank with a gentle water fall in the room as well fill the silence. Its easier to add sound than subtract.
Curious why you didn't use cork as both sound absorption and insulator?
Rockwool does fine for absorbing treble frequencies, but as you heard, it's the bass frequencies that are transmitted by studs or floor joists. These structural members act like the hammer, anvil, and stirrup bones in your ear to directly transmit vibrations. Decoupling those walls does wonders. Staggered studs are good, and double studs with a half inch space between them are even better. Dynamat has some products that target floors and walls to deaden sound transmission as well. I knew someone who had a home theater room with an 18" subwoofer in the room above his master bedroom, and we could go up there and listen to an action film while his wife was asleep right below us. It was remarkable how silent that bedroom was while T-Rex was stomping around in the room above.
Did you use slats instead of hat sections on the bottom of your I-joists to screw the drywall to? Did you glue your drywall to the slats or I-joists?
I'm surprised you didn't go with the mass loaded vinyl - would love to see the difference in sound.
Matt wit da beats...
Would love to see this using dense pack cellulose.
I live in a 4000 square foot house with all hardwood or tile floors. I would love to be able to tear out the drywall and put in some sound proofing.
The noise is a big problem.
It important to recognize the difference between stopping sound transmission (from room to room, etc.) from sound absorption.
Worked at speaker co. We had room that was 25’ long and 20’ wide and 16’ ceiling. With rock wool batts. Kind of an odd room
What about using acoustical caulking between the drywall and studs?
I m not sure if Sonopan is available in US or not but that is a real inexpensive alternative product as well. A DIY alternative. It is Homedepot exclusive in Canada. The gaps can filled with any acoustic sealant. Fill the stud gap with rockwool, put Sonopan sheets, caulk the gaps and put drywall. Done.
Last I checked it was not available in the US except through special orders via dealers. Basically cost prohibitive to get it in the US, but I've heard good things about it.
Have you looked into a product called Sonopan? I think it's available in the US too, although it's a Canadian product. Basically it's an engineered wood panel that goes on before drywall that absorbs sound incredibly well. It can be combined with rockwool insulation. Pretty awesome product. Also made from recycled wood fibres, so very eco friendly.
Cant get it easily in the US. Home depot is always out of stock
This is what I'm here for.
I put two layers of rockwool in my I-joist subfloor with an air gap between the batts in my basement. We will see how much deadening will occur after 5/8 sheetrock goes up
Not bad. Now you arrive at rockwool. But the journey goes to cellulose fiber or wood fiber. Best against summer heating and sound absorbing.👍👍👍🇩🇪
Ok Matt, when you said Alexa's name it set off EVERY Alexa device in my apartment and I had to run around telling it cancel for 5 minutes...geez. 😆😆😆😆
Matt we need you in Canada. The quality of workmanship and build up here is similar to sheds and shacks...
BC is near the leading edge in building. Their 2024 BC code step 5 is not far from Passive Haus standards.
i could defiantly use some tips? i live in rwanda and we mostly use concert but its clearly not enough
i have done a good amount of research and for my next project im looking up the cost of it all.
Use the Apple ipod intercom function to announce dinner to the kids on the second floor.
A couple of ipod mini'sat $100 each is an easy solution.
How does that Sheetrock compare to Quietrock or other drywall replacements that absorb sound--but are hard to find locally stocked?
would love to see sono pan on your job site for a review
Almost impossible to get in the States unfortunately…
@@carsono311 its canadian right? i bet we have a knock off somewhere
Matt highlights products that pay for placement.
I've read that MLV is best for attenuating noise.
I’ve used it on many projects and yes it’s an incredible material. You need to make sure to install it correctly to get the max benefits. I’ve invented a detail that I haven’t seen anyone else do to get amazing MLV performance at a better price than conventional methods.
But physics is physics and lower frequencies will still make it through pretty much any wall besides 6’ thick concrete+baffles
@@SilasDrewchin Thanks for sharing. I can't afford to do both and I am leaning towards MLV.
I’ve seen some people put wireless doorbells in the kids rooms to ring them down.
That floor is much better than you think it is because you did the test wrong. All that sound that followed you down the steps also followed you to the kitchen. So when you measured the sound, the device picked up the noise that bypassed the floor.
To accurately measure the floor, you need to first temporarily stop the noise from coming through the door of the room upstairs and down the steps.
Also, those sound measuring apps are poor guesstimates at most. It’s best to measure with a device designed for measuring sound.
If everything would’ve been measured correctly it would’ve shown very little noise coming through that floor.
1 1/8 floor sheeting wow thats crazy
It really makes for a solid feeling floor.
Not crazy, really nice. It isn't all that much more money and the floor is just solid.
I did safe and sound in all my interior walls based on your previous videos on my new build 16 months ago. Very good for noise transfer/reduction from room to room but I still find the rooms echo too much. 10ft ceilings. Not sure what to do at this point.
Echo reduction requires soft materials INSIDE the room. Use carpet, use soft furniture, put soft objects in the room corners. Find soft art objects to put on an expanse of wall, or a decorative slatted treatment on a section of wall to break up the expanse of completely flat surface.
If you want to address the huge expanse of ceiling that is causing sound reflections, you could look at a drop ceiling of acoustical tiles (if you can find something that isn't too ugly for you), or various RUclips channels on home production studios show how to make boxes out of acoustical material that you can hang from the ceiling to break up the sound reflective surface.
Put a few carpets around. Tablecloths. Cushioned furniture. Wall decorations that absorb or at least break up the soundwaves.
Every person I know who has that large pivoting entry door hate them within a few months. First thing they say is that they regret going with that.
10db is basically 2x or .5. so -40db is 1/8th the sound, but a very loud sound 1/8 could still be very audible.
Hello why kind of insulation it is, i need some for a house, 0 noise!! Please advice.
0:00 wait, what's the point of a door of which opening you can only use 2/3?
I'm a sound engineer and I can tell you two layers of drywall that thick is all you need to soundproof that room, put two layers between all the rooms and the ceiling that room will be completely quiet
or one layer of Quietrock.
Put rock wool inside the bathroom walls in my interior bathroom in my 100 year old bungalow, it's like a tomb in there now
At least you can blow it up now and no one knows
Is there any danger from inhaling the rock wool fibers/dust?
Absolutely not with a Is tight and full mask covering
Rock wool fibers are heavy, once you’re done cutting the fibers shouldn’t linger in the air.
I’m sure the kids “can’t hear” you 😂😂😂
Ur Funny!
👍
Sound deadening a home "sounds" pretty complicated. When you're living in a home and all your furniture is in, sound transmission is pretty important. I notice on new home tours sound reflectance, especially in a 2 story foyer + great room combo is an annoyance to me (the narrator's voice starts sounding hollow).. Of course the ultimate is to design like a concert hall, but then the home would be soo expensive... I would think using 5/8 sheet rock and rock wool would be sufficient for most rooms and additional wall treatment for sound reflectance in the home theater room would be enough. Double or triple glazed windows if your neighborhood is noisy ? Speakers with push-to-talk to prevent accidental sound transmission from a room would be better than an Alexis controlled speakers to ensure privacy.
man, I wish I could afford a -quiet- house
Vote on adding a voice assistant in every room. I did with my rental. And I don’t ever shout anymore. Just announce it and they’ll come
What can you do to an already build house
Mostly put sound absorbing materials into the rooms. Consider art work or acoustic panels for the walls and ceilings, select a good sound attenuating carpet with a good heavy thick pad, and select furniture that has sound absorbing properties. Otherwise you are tearing out walls or at least adding additional layers to the walls. If you are willing to spend the money, you can add a layer of quiet rock brand sheetrock over the current sheetrock, but now you are tearing out all the moldings and stuff and redoing those in addition to re-taping/floating/painting. If you have an open air attic, crawl space, basement above or below you can put rockwool in there.
You can cut a bunch of round holes on drywall and blow in insulation. You can then patch holes and putty coat entire walls or add a second layer of drywall over it (easier on ceilings because they don't have doors and casings to account for wall thickness.) The 2nd layer can be 5/8" drywall and it can be done on only one side of interior walls. Or remove drywall add batt insulation, install hat channel or RZ channel and install new 5/8' drywall. Swap hollow doors for solid doors with weather stripping.
What brand drywall was that?
He said USG
Hey, gotta do the shout outs to your sponsors.
Set up a com system
Great product but don’t count on it to take care of all your noise problems, i’d still recommend resilient channels, etc
Have you ever seen active noise cancellation technology for a house?
Matt, really disappointed with the testing. Was hoping to see you do a comparison of rooms next to each other like bedroom -> bedroom. Or like where you started the video at, Family Room -> Bedroom.
I understand comparing 1st floor to 2nd floor. But not all homes are 2 stories.
I remember in your “Real Rebuild” series you caulked and went to great lengths to “sound proof” the shared walls between bedrooms. THAT would be a better test comparison.
Hat channels would do absolutely nothing but lose you 7/8" ceiling height. Resilient channels are FAR superior for sound attenuation, and cheaper and quicker to install too.
I always found that Matt’s sound “tests” to be lacking.
Suggest how I can do them better. I’m always open for a good upgrade
One thing that I noticed in the US, was that the interior doors do not have gaskets all around the door as you would see in Europe and Asia. This really helps a lot reduce sound penetration. Is there a reason that is not done in the US? Just a cost thing?
Go with Nest speakers and you can just say "Hey Google, broadcast".
Another thing you can do is buy soft ear plugs.
Honestly for the amount of money you spent on this house you should be ashamed for not including sound resistance doors or some sort of hidden hidden acoustical door sweep
I say on point your "On the build show" phrase in unison with you
The thing I didn’t see here was a calibrated sound meter (or SPL meter). Testing using your phone isn’t accurate.
Do you need that level of accuracy if your demonstration rounds to the nearest 5 decibels? Use the right tool for the job, you don’t use micrometers to place studs.
You'll hear every drop of rain with that spray foam roof though
So what about when the house is already built and your POS builder didn't put this in
This really didn't show anything (not to be rude, but maybe you adjust and show it in a future video!). As soon as you move away from the speaker, your sound meter drops. Try it in the hall with the door open. There's basically no soundproofing with that gap under the door. It's like heating (cooling in the south) a house with a window open.
Funny enough, 1/2" drywall can be better in some cases (with 24" OC) because the flex of the wall can be absorptive. Proper soundproofing needs decoupling like clips and channel (not resilient channel!). It's a complex subject and requires quite a bit more than extra insulation. Mass loaded vinyl will do nothing. To increase mass you'd use double drywall with a constrained layer damping compound (eg Green Glue).
One last note, soundproofing is keeping sound in or out, not to be confused with acoustic treatment which is controlling the quality of the sound in the room. They are separate and you can have one without the other. Drywall is very reflective and almost all drywall rooms benefit from absorption to reduce reverb. Living spaces often have some via furniture (but need more) while a room like a garage sounds horrible without acoustic treatment.
Right, add Alexas, so all Amazon IT dudes can listen to you :-)))
I love your shows and ideas and believe that perfection should always be strived for in life but in regard to your videos these standards are untenable for the mass of population mostly because of cost thus most structures, especially homes, are built on minimal standards to keep the cost low. Your house in AZ would be a million-dollar house. Really? Nice for those that can but it sucks for the rest of us.
When are we gonna hear the tips? Was the noise reduction so successful and that's why we couldn't hear them?
Love that your daughter has a poster that says "These Colors Don't Run They Reload".
Lost count how many times he plugged USG Drywall.
There should be a disclosure if you’re getting a kickback for pushing a product. I personally don’t see anything special about USG brand.
The more sound abatement you do, the cost goes up.
Remember you are building a home, not an audio recording studio. 🙂
Что за регион у вас, в сочи что ли? С такой входной дверью в сибири опухли бы коммуналку платить
What the heck. Why can’t I speed up the playback speed
it is always quiet when no noise is being generated
build the teenagers an ADU in like an hour
It’s only $50 Sq.Ft. !!!! So adding $5,000 a room is extra cheap for most of us.
hi matt, all you have to do to get the kids downstairs is to put the internet on a room to room circuit and turn it off in their bedrooms. trust me they will be down before you could shout "come down"
80db isn’t even loud, especially for a young kid. Try 120db
You are confusing acoustic and insulation.