😕🤯 I remember my dad working on circuit boards when I was young. Have no idea what he was doing nor did it interest me. He worked as an ATC tech for the Airforce back in the late 70's. Even though this is very geeky, It brought back some good memories of me and my dad.
I love this video. The explanations are concise but great. Your tonal voice when you explain things is great. I looked through your channel unfortunately I don't see any other build videos :( Please make more.
Hi Peter.. great video and the exact same upgrade I'm trying to do now. I noticed that at 14:53 into the video the wiring has suddenly changed without you mentioning it, in that the common off the switch was a short black wire and is then long brown.. you also mention later in the video that the mains hot should go through the fuse to the switch and not straight to the transformer. My unit is the same in that it appears that the neutral was going to the fuse and switch.. not the hot. Any idea why they would have been built this way? I also seem to have some extra wires from the transformer that I can't figure out where to attach... grey, black/yellow, black and black/green. Do you have any ideas where those should go? Many thanks.. Phil G7BOH
I lengthened the wire black wire with what I had on hand (brown), as it was a bit short. I'm not sure why the neutral is fused on these power supplies, as it's just bad practice. So most definitely change it and make sure the hot is fused and switched on your supply. As for the other wires you mentioned, I will have to open my power supply up and check. It's been a few years since I did the mod, and will have to trace those lines and get back to you. I still do some work on my ham radio gear, in fact I'm fixing my Yeasu FT-857 right now. It's all SMD, but that's not a problem. I'm focused more on my airplane right now, and I do have a few youtube videos of me building some electronics for that airplane in the now 23 videos on my airplane. So by all means check them out if you're interested. Cheers from Winnipeg, and check back in a while, as I'll post a reply to your inquiry regarding those other wires as soon as I figure out where they go for you. 73
@@challenger2ultralightadventure Hi again Peter, I've found reference to most of the extra wires on a different schematic.. they're for the 240v source instead of 110v so likely not in your units. I'll need to find someone else the UK who's done the upgrade and check what they did. Thanks & 73.. Phil
I'm looking at rebuilding mine. I ran a power supply calculation on the caps and it's honestly hard to find a capacitor that can take the ripple currents in the hp-23 series. I wonder how these are holding up.
@@clytle374 Not used as often as I would like. It's powered up less than once a month. Extremely light service duty is what I would call it. Hope this answers your question.
Hey, I'm Keri the vacuum tube witch and I just stepped in - this video appeared in my recommendations (after such a long time - the RUclips algorithms amaze me), and I do a lot of vintage gear tinkering, amp builds etc. That's an elegant retrofit for sure :) I like it a lot! You did a nice job with those large power resistors. The leads seem stiff enough to stand them off just like that. I'd leave the old can electrolytics in, cutting or bending their leads if necessary. That would preserve the chassis' old school aesthetic while having a completely modern circuitry inside. Whew! Scary sounds for sure. Did someone fire up a jackhammer in your workshop?
I have a few more projects on the go with the old Heathkit, but right now they are sort of taking a back seat as I work on my airplane. I did post a bit about me designing and building some custom electronics for the airplane. Working in smd almost exclusively for that work. Thanks a bunch for the kind words, they do encourage me to do more. Cheers from Winnipeg.
Nice job on this. Any chance you would ever do a similar video on the HP23A with the adjustable bias? I bought this kit several years back and basically failed because of not understanding the hook ups for the switch, the adjustable bias and the board. I thought the instructions left a lot to be desired for the HP-23A model. I think one picture of how the switch is wired would do it for me. KD9NI.
I have a power supply with the adjustable bias, I just have to gather up the parts required and film the retrofit. Hope to have that done by spring. Thanks for the compliment.
Well, that is just perfect. I have several of these power supplies I want to rebuild. Just as a suggestion, in your first video I found myself wanting to see details in the power supply just a little better. Maybe zoom in more? 4K? Anyway thanks for your effort on this. I really do appreciate it. I ordered a new kit yesterday.
Thank you very much. I have been trying to figure out how to properly edit the videos I have filmed. I have 6 more already filmed that just need editing, but I'm stuck on selecting the right software for editing. That and I'm not happy with the camera, so I have a long way to go before I become a regular contributor. It will happen, as long as "life" doesn't get in the way.
I'd space those up 1/2" and put a wiggle bend in the leads to hold them up. Stagger them if you can so they don't touch each other, and keep them away from each other so air can flow around them. Appliance & electronics designers will stand resistors as much as 2" above the PCB because they use too small a wattage, and they get really hot.
Peter, thanks for this video, I have 4 of these old units that need upgrading. I just wish I could understand most of what you say, no I am not complaining about your voice, only very old and bad hearing.
I don't think he has a link to the instructions, but if you send him a msg, he should be able to send you a replacement disk. Have you tried to run the disk in a different PC
Sad to say, old heathkit parts is shutting down. This is the message from the website. "PLEASE NOTE: OLD HEATHKIT PARTS IS GRADUALLY FADING AWAY AND WILL NOT BE SELLING PARTS AT ALL EVENTUALLY. THEREFORE, MANY OF THE PARTS PREVIOUSLY AVAILABLE ARE NOW OUT OF STOCK. SOME ITEMS ARE STILL AVAILABLE. IT HAS BEEN A PLEASURE SERVING HEATHKIT FANS IN THE PAST - THANK YOU."
+P Toth no not yet I was hoping to find a link or a posted PDF by another Ham who has assembled the kit.. I'm outside the U.S. In Central America and the kit alone cost 38 Usd to ship down with Frt and duty not to mention the time lost ,,,, I'm watching your vid for the fifth time to try and break it down frame by frame..
I'm not home right now, but I can try to send the instructions to you by email. If the instructions are in a format that can be sent. Just drop me a quick note via email, and if it possible, I'll reply with the instructions as an attachment. My email is VE4TTH@GMAIL.COM
+P Toth that would be a god send Peter ,, I am comfortable populating the board I think everything else is a tad grey. I'm good on qrz N8JAJ tnx and 73
😕🤯 I remember my dad working on circuit boards when I was young. Have no idea what he was doing nor did it interest me. He worked as an ATC tech for the Airforce back in the late 70's. Even though this is very geeky, It brought back some good memories of me and my dad.
Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers.
I love this video. The explanations are concise but great. Your tonal voice when you explain things is great. I looked through your channel unfortunately I don't see any other build videos :( Please make more.
Peter, I was able to get the disk to load and am on my way, thank you for the help and the video..
Glad to hear it, hope to work you on the bands. 73
Hi Peter.. great video and the exact same upgrade I'm trying to do now. I noticed that at 14:53 into the video the wiring has suddenly changed without you mentioning it, in that the common off the switch was a short black wire and is then long brown.. you also mention later in the video that the mains hot should go through the fuse to the switch and not straight to the transformer. My unit is the same in that it appears that the neutral was going to the fuse and switch.. not the hot. Any idea why they would have been built this way?
I also seem to have some extra wires from the transformer that I can't figure out where to attach... grey, black/yellow, black and black/green. Do you have any ideas where those should go?
Many thanks.. Phil G7BOH
I lengthened the wire black wire with what I had on hand (brown), as it was a bit short. I'm not sure why the neutral is fused on these power supplies, as it's just bad practice. So most definitely change it and make sure the hot is fused and switched on your supply. As for the other wires you mentioned, I will have to open my power supply up and check. It's been a few years since I did the mod, and will have to trace those lines and get back to you. I still do some work on my ham radio gear, in fact I'm fixing my Yeasu FT-857 right now. It's all SMD, but that's not a problem.
I'm focused more on my airplane right now, and I do have a few youtube videos of me building some electronics for that airplane in the now 23 videos on my airplane. So by all means check them out if you're interested. Cheers from Winnipeg, and check back in a while, as I'll post a reply to your inquiry regarding those other wires as soon as I figure out where they go for you. 73
@@challenger2ultralightadventure Hi again Peter, I've found reference to most of the extra wires on a different schematic.. they're for the 240v source instead of 110v so likely not in your units. I'll need to find someone else the UK who's done the upgrade and check what they did. Thanks & 73.. Phil
I'm looking at rebuilding mine. I ran a power supply calculation on the caps and it's honestly hard to find a capacitor that can take the ripple currents in the hp-23 series. I wonder how these are holding up.
So far they have proven to be reliable.
@@challenger2ultralightadventure thanks for the response. Is it used often? I'm considering film caps due to the numbers I'm getting.
@@clytle374 Not used as often as I would like. It's powered up less than once a month. Extremely light service duty is what I would call it. Hope this answers your question.
Hey, I'm Keri the vacuum tube witch and I just stepped in - this video appeared in my recommendations (after such a long time - the RUclips algorithms amaze me), and I do a lot of vintage gear tinkering, amp builds etc.
That's an elegant retrofit for sure :) I like it a lot! You did a nice job with those large power resistors. The leads seem stiff enough to stand them off just like that.
I'd leave the old can electrolytics in, cutting or bending their leads if necessary. That would preserve the chassis' old school aesthetic while having a completely modern circuitry inside.
Whew! Scary sounds for sure. Did someone fire up a jackhammer in your workshop?
I have a few more projects on the go with the old Heathkit, but right now they are sort of taking a back seat as I work on my airplane. I did post a bit about me designing and building some custom electronics for the airplane. Working in smd almost exclusively for that work.
Thanks a bunch for the kind words, they do encourage me to do more.
Cheers from Winnipeg.
Nice job on this. Any chance you would ever do a similar video on the HP23A with the adjustable bias? I bought this kit several years back and basically failed because of not understanding the hook ups for the switch, the adjustable bias and the board. I thought the instructions left a lot to be desired for the HP-23A model. I think one picture of how the switch is wired would do it for me. KD9NI.
I have a power supply with the adjustable bias, I just have to gather up the parts required and film the retrofit. Hope to have that done by spring. Thanks for the compliment.
Well, that is just perfect. I have several of these power supplies I want to rebuild. Just as a suggestion, in your first video I found myself wanting to see details in the power supply just a little better. Maybe zoom in more? 4K? Anyway thanks for your effort on this. I really do appreciate it. I ordered a new kit yesterday.
New camera with proper zoom will make the next video a lot nicer to watch.
First Video Nice Job Just found you today 2-7-17 keep it up and going Do not let the haters get in you're Head and keep doing it you're own way..
Thank you very much. I have been trying to figure out how to properly edit the videos I have filmed. I have 6 more already filmed that just need editing, but I'm stuck on selecting the right software for editing. That and I'm not happy with the camera, so I have a long way to go before I become a regular contributor. It will happen, as long as "life" doesn't get in the way.
And that's the truth.
Oh man, your shack is way too neat. You can't be a ham.
+bigstickpilot LOL, Not always that clean, but I do try to keep it organized.
I'd space those up 1/2" and put a wiggle bend in the leads to hold them up. Stagger them if you can so they don't touch each other, and keep them away from each other so air can flow around them. Appliance & electronics designers will stand resistors as much as 2" above the PCB because they use too small a wattage, and they get really hot.
Peter, thanks for this video, I have 4 of these old units that need upgrading. I just wish I could understand most of what you say, no I am not complaining about your voice, only very old and bad hearing.
peter is there a link anywhere online to the instructions for Bobs kit ? I purchased his kit but my mini disk will not open.
I don't think he has a link to the instructions, but if you send him a msg, he should be able to send you a replacement disk. Have you tried to run the disk in a different PC
Sad to say, old heathkit parts is shutting down. This is the message from the website. "PLEASE NOTE: OLD HEATHKIT PARTS IS GRADUALLY FADING AWAY AND WILL NOT BE SELLING PARTS AT ALL EVENTUALLY. THEREFORE, MANY OF THE PARTS PREVIOUSLY AVAILABLE ARE NOW OUT OF STOCK. SOME ITEMS ARE STILL AVAILABLE. IT HAS BEEN A PLEASURE SERVING HEATHKIT FANS IN THE PAST - THANK YOU."
+P Toth no not yet I was hoping to find a link or a posted PDF by another Ham who has assembled the kit.. I'm outside the U.S. In Central America and the kit alone cost 38 Usd to ship down with Frt and duty not to mention the time lost ,,,, I'm watching your vid for the fifth time to try and break it down frame by frame..
I'm not home right now, but I can try to send the instructions to you by email. If the instructions are in a format that can be sent. Just drop me a quick note via email, and if it possible, I'll reply with the instructions as an attachment. My email is VE4TTH@GMAIL.COM
+P Toth that would be a god send Peter ,, I am comfortable populating the board I think everything else is a tad grey. I'm good on qrz N8JAJ tnx and 73
🇧🇷👍
Thanks