Twin Cam Compensator Failure and What You Can Do About It
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Compensator failure is no secret and a big issue on Twin Cam engines. This is what happens when the factory puts a part from an 80 cubic inch engine on a 103 cubic engine. You can fix it and even eliminate the problem forever. OEM compensators are prone to failure, especially on the Twin Cam 96. Now while there was a new alternate OEM part number to fix the issue it never completely fixed the problem. When you start adding power and torque to your motor this only increases strain on the compensator. We're going to look at what the options are and how you can even eliminate the compensator altogether.
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Another sign of them going out is hard starting when the engine is warm. Just started experiencing that myself.
yes, that was my first sign, i have a 2005 fatboy. After hearing the bang at HOT start up, MONTH later, it failed!! I have a comp. eliminator , from BDL, i love it!! a little vibration at high speeds, but other than that, Its Awesome!! very happy.
Dark horse makes a amazing compensator for a fuzz over cost of screaming eagle. It’s also serviceable for about $40 instead of needing a new compensator years later
Yes! Their eliminator with the cush drive is one the best ideas anyone has ever come up with!
@@GixxerFoo I went with the Man O War with no regrets.
FYI, Also have to purchase a new rotor, 200 bucks if you change to screaming eagle, man o war etc.
@@paulbouverette503 not true. Just did one on a 16 fatboy s and used the hd rotor
I put a Man O War on my stock 2016 Ultra Limited with 27,000 miles. After one ride my bike started making a horrendous noise with a harsh vibration. The shop tore it back down, torqued everything again, same problem. Ended up with new stock compensator (Screaming Eagle) after all that. BTW, it rattled since new but progressively got worse. I've owned 4 brand new Harleys all of which all had problems. The bike is being put up for sale. Back to a good ol reliable metric rice burning SOB 😉.
You left out the best option that's from Dark Horse the man of war compensator great affordable price best option on the market
I'll have to do a follow up and cover the Dark Horse, they make some really good products. Dark Horse is popular with a lot of guys doing rebuilds, I have heard a lot of good things about their crankshafts too.
That’s what I’m gona get !!👍
That's one excellent eliminator with that cush drive!
Dark Horse is also my choice when I make the change. Kevin Baxter did a nice review with John from DH.
I would have to agree onnthe Dark Horse, l think they got it right with that cush drive setup.
Just found your site. Great info but above all, presentation......Thank you.. I'm 73 and ride a 2004 FXDL. Hydraulic cam chain tensioners kit just completed at 62000km by Motorcycles and More in Kingston, On, Ca. Leaving on a solo trip from Kingston to Calgary and back Aug 01.
How was your trip?
Local Kingston Harley Rider here, giving a Shout Out to the guys at Motorcycles & More of Kingston, this shop was opened by my Former Chief Mechanic at MotoSport Plus, Paul Dowker. I worked with Paul for 10 years. A true and real life "Mechanic". I was the Service Manager.
Professional Content Explained Very Well in Layman's terms ,,Awesome
Thank you! I appreciate it, nobody really wants an engineer explaining how to screw in a light bulb. I hope the content has been helpul!
These vids are very informative without being too long and wordy; the important info is conveyed efficiently to the viewer. Keep 'em coming and thanks for posting this.
I appreciate that! The goal has been to get the info on these bikes out there all in one place. Thank you for watching and supporting us!
Why didn't you at least Mention the unique and quite excellent Darkhorse Compensator??
That’s what I went with. Man-o-war by Dark Horse. Great product! Sold that bike and damn near took it out for the new bike lol.
I regard the entire compensator idea with contempt. No wonder only HD used them but mine go into the trash and I run solid front sprockets instead. (Calling them "compensator eliminators" is marketroid BS but helps buyers digest paying for what should have been there in the first place.) The best compensator is none and the vibe difference is trivial.
I dont have any trouble finding neutral or first gear, i don't hear any wierd noises while driving or idling, no wierd vibrations but every once in a while when i go to start it there is a loud CLANK, which scares the hell outta me sounds horrible, is this normal or should i be looking to replace the compensator? Is there a way to service this one to make the CLANK stop when starting? What will happen if it goes completely out?
I shared my compensator nightmare in one of your last videos but the gist of it was it exploded my starter gear which got lodged under the clutch hub assembly and the chain which prevented the ability to push start.
The only thing I would like to add here about compensator eliminators is that even a compensator will crack the teeth off of the stock clutch hub assembly on the main transition shaft meaning that if you pull the clutch basket flip it over and look at it You're going to see gears missing on a normal stock unit....The compensator eliminator is going to double or triple the stress on these gear teeth so if you're going to run a comp eliminator and you're going to keep a stock clutch hub assembly you're going to shred it in no time. If you've priced billet clutch hub assemblies you might change your mind about running a comp eliminator. Just my two cents from someone who's seen clutch hub assembly teeth shredded from just a standard compensator.
I remember you saying you had a huge mess in there when yours let go, that was the trifecta of compensator failure. I should of featured the Dark Horse eliminator, it actually has a cush drive built into it which can be rebuilt if need be. I was really surprised to hear about such frequent failures even with the top of the line compensators out there.
Thanks for that tidbit bro, I heard that from other sources also,,so I think I will install a better type starter comp and let it eat. 👍🤓
My friend is going thru the same thing with his 2010 roadglide he has had the clutch hub replaced two times since he bought the bike in 2019 now its down because there are 3 broken teeth on the clutch hub and the bike wont start what options do he have for a better clutch hub u cant find any real info on youtube
Your videos are very enlightening and highly appreciated. I was looking for a more comfortable ride, and your video on the Switchback conviced me. Yes, it was hard to find, and it was somewhat neglected, but with only 14000 miles I and all the accessories, it was an unresisistable offer. This week changed that automatic primary tensioner for an SE manual one which brings me to the topic at hand. The compensator is asking for a replacement. After reading the reviews on that Man O War from Dark Horse, I believe it's the way to go. Yes, it may be more expensive, but in the long run, being that it's serviceable might save some $$ in the long run. Thanks for your advice.
Thank you! I am really happy the video helped out! I would say the Dark Horse eliminator is the best option out there and it will pay for itself in the future. Plus the rebuild kits for the rubber damper are inexpensive in comparison and they last a long time if you even ever had to service it.
You didn’t mention the one compensator that is most likely the best one on the market, which is the dark horse man o war compensator. Baker makes good parts, but you almost have to be a millionaire to afford to buy baker parts. With that said, I make more money than I know what to do with and the one and only baker product I will ever have on my bike is the 6 speed cruise drive main drive gear timken bearing conversion which was ridiculously priced for not a lot of product. I’d rather buy crappy oem Harley compensator over and over again then make baker think it’s ok to price their parts like they do by giving baker more of my money for their ridiculously high priced parts. #screwbaker! #buydarkhorse!
It's really hard to beat Dark Horse's eliminator with that cush drive!
dont forget you can also change yer final gearing with a comp eliminator...made a huge diff on my breakout
Ha G foo,what about man o war for the 96ciB moter? What is a good parts dealer in AUSTRALIA 🇦🇺? CAM plat wood cams man o war crank , can man o war crank go with nedel roler bearing or need timken conversion, and compensater, I think that is it , 🤞👊
So far in all my RUclips studying and searching for Harley stuff you have the best info also easy to find !!
Wow, thanks! I'm glad the videos have been helpful!
I own an '05 FXSTi and a '99 Road King. Have seen nothing to upgrade these years
If it's stock , it's made to just get past warranty , most SE parts should have been stock
BDL Belt Drive. Love the clatter.
They make some awesome conversion kits!
Also another overlooked aspect of a cheap way of increasing torque is to run a 1-2 tooth smaller sprocket on the compensator. Especially if you run a 6 speed conversion on a TC-88, alot of gearing options open up
That's a really good point and it is quite overlooked. It's almost a must running a six speed on the 88, just about every company that sells the eliminator has tooth options.
I've got a "comp eliminator" in my twin cam... but I also have an S&S crank... it's a 107 now, ported heads, S&S 585s and 10.25:1 compression. Also put a Trask billet basket in just to be safe... Final drive is chain 24/51.... she rips and is put together so well that I can't even tell the compensator is gone...
Still running ok? Any high speed long distance ?
July 2020: I replaced SE compensator on my 2013 103-stage 2 with a Man O-War. This year & 15,000+ miles later, I replaced the 103 with a 120ST based on a video of yours. The Man O-War had no noticeable wear. It's now on the 120 and quiet as before. Very happy with the product as I ride the bike hard, lots of W-O-T and clutch less shifting.
That's awesome to hear! Dark Horse is the way to go!
How I fixed any twin cam issues with my two twin cams is I sold them both and bought an Evo. Problem solved.
I had a early baker fail also...
Defiantly look out for those idiots on four wheels. Most are drunk and have one purpose in life which is to kill you! One killed my best friend by turning left in front of him. Dean was a rough, but loving and generous man who was closer to me than my flesh and blood brother, so please ride safe and defensively. RIP my brother Dean Crislip 😢
I'm sorry to hear that, for lack of a better way to put it the town drunk lives behind me. My wife and I ride bikes and our kids are usually with us, always gotta dodge that guy.
@Tommy Ealey I am sorry for your loss and glad that you survived.
Someone pleeeease help. So when I have my starter wire plugged in to my starter (12Street glide) it use to rattle like rocks in the primary. I put a plunger button on the starter and start it that way. No issues when I leave the wire to the start unplugged. Just yesterday I went to trade the bike in and noticed the noise that sounds like the starter engaging was happening when I pulled on the front brake lever. Also the bike has a loud clunk when shutting off wether it’s in gear or neutral. I wonder if replacing the compensator will fix that issue?
From what I understand, SE and other compensators are good for 2007 and up bikes only, so what someone with a 2003 Softail should do for better compensator??
I'm in the same boat. I've got an 02 heritage. 95". Got some starter noise when warm. Can't seem to find a decent replacement. All of them are 06 or newer.
@@billanderson2763 Yes. So, I did more research (I had an 06 as well with comp issues) and there are a couple of options for us: 1) compensator eliminator: there is NO unified view on it, some say eliminate some say don't 2) which is what I've been doing (coz all HD bikes have compensator issues including 07 and up, 16 was a good compensator) every 20K or 30K miles I install a new compensator which is NOT HD compensator, you can go with just replacing the sprocket spring plate if your comp teeth are still in a great condition which will save you about $100, but from my experience, and others, the bolt gets worn as well mainly if you ride hard and a lot. Ultimately, it depends on how you ride and how many miles on your bike and how well you maintain it. Now, if you always hear a "starter noise" whether the bike is cold or hot it might not be the compensator. And a real compensator issue makes a much more horrible sound than a "starter noise" it sounds like you have metal bolts running inside your primary, not like your starter doesn't engage. You might just need a clutch adjustment (I just recently solved a "comp" issue for a friend by adjusting his clutch, and changing all fluids.
It's depressing HD still hasn't properly addressed this issue after so many years of a well known shortcoming
For whatever reason they carried the compensator from the 88 over to the 96 and that's when the trouble started. They finally updated it and that seemed to take care of the issue.
Most other brands have the buffering built into the clutch basket.
That's something Harley hasn't caught onto yet unfortunately
Or you can buy a compensater type of sprocket from Man o war products. Combines the pro's of a solid sprocket with the added benifit of being dampened with cushion type inserts.2007 and up👌👍 wish they made them for 2006 and older aswell. 😒
That's awesome, l was hoping this video would get some conversation going about all the great products out there! I'll have to do a follow up.
The Man o War compensator makes a squeak when it is working.
@@troypoorman5948 No doubt a little sillicon grease could fix that.👍
That's would take some getting used to.
Up until now no problems with my comp on my 07 96ci but only 23k miles , I hope it stays this way, thanks for the great videos Gix
Just curious, why is your channel name gixerfoo when you're always talking about harleys
I used to ride sport bikes and l was in a club years ago. I had a GSX-R 1000 at the time and the name just kinda stuck with me over the years.
I tried a compensator eliminator, and also , found that it increases the noise and vibration, Then replaced the OEM compensator, and found springs, to place in the original rotor, now all quiet, like It was when I bought It.
I want to fit an S&S 124 in my 09 StreetGlide, do I need to change any other components. Thanks
With a complete engine swap I would do a compensator eliminator like the DarkHorse and for sure invest in a good clutch setup to handle the power of that motor. Other than that the trans will hold up just fine, you might consider a good manual tensioner setup as well.
While you are in there. Ditch the auto tensioner. Actually. Ditch it first thing and save your bearings. All of them. There are plenty of good options. Years ago I used the Hayden M6. It was a good inexpensive option.
i was done with this guy when he said dont use OEM, but screamin eagle is OK to use, they are both OEM HD, sorry this guy has HD bias. he should mention that HD manufactures lousy products, but he dont have the balls to say it.
Actually the SE part became OEM in 2010 when they discontinued the 07 to 2009 compensator that was basically a carry over from the 88. I would recommend the SE compensator over cheaper ones out there, there are better ones like from Baker which are about 500 bucks. The SE compensator now is the same as the OEM. But ordering a SE compensator is cheaper than buying the exact same part under the OEM part number.
08 FLSTC found broken compensator spring. Is inside rotor spring cup.Swapped to drag specialty rotor w. Spring and now goes into neutral pretty easy. Lots better that before barley ever could find neutral, took possibly 5 tries or more if ever went to neutral. Also adjusted the primary chain adjuster is manual adjustment not auto
I have an 02 road king, makes the same kind of noise.. is it possible to be the compensator with it being a twin cam 88?
Very possible, compensators do fail eventually in all motors. The compensator in the early years of the 96 had issues and failed early on.
What about the effect on stator? 89 883 my brother(in 91) had Dealership put on 1200 kit, immediately stator gone....replaced several times, same thing......but the compensator was never changed, or even checked that I know of.
I had a deap scratch on the outer primary cover. I ordered a new cover. The part number changed by adding an A to the number. The need to add the plastic oil deflectors have been eliminated and are now built into the cover.
One little change and you get a new part number which can cause some confusion if they don't note it!
Is this a issue with stock motors as well? I do all fluids at recommend intervals and don't run it hard.
Is it a 88" issue or 96"/103" problem.
The problem is with the compensator itself, it just wasn't what it should of been to handle the torque of the motor.
Enjoy your channel but, I would never purchase a Harley Davidson part to improve the performance of my Harley.
Lol I bought a 2007 harley davidson softail custom with 14,000 miles today. I stopped at Harley dealership today. I asked about the compensator and the auto primary chain tensioner. The mechanic said I've never heard of any going bad. Maybe a couple between 40,000 dealerships. I never trust them....
Right, Its hard to believe but a lot of dealers wouldn't care If your bike had to come in for a trade in to buy a "New Bike" .
I actually built a really super fast 98 cube shovel but heads only look shovel crank has been turned up like a stroker but using better steel, rods are carbon fibre and I have been told that it would never work but while it works you really can't call it a Harley Davidson anymore but its a lot of fun and simply sounds like a stroker but yeah looks are different.
Just buy/build a better trans and better clutch. And hammer on it all day. Ware out a rear tire in 5-6k
salve su un Dyna del 2010 ho sistituito il compensatore originale con uno fisso senza molle quello della Drag, lasciando il tendicatena originale hd a regolazione automatica potrei avere problemi?
il motore ha 80000 miglia e per ora è migliorato molto, ma tutti me lo hanno sconsigliato dicendo che tra un pò macinero' tutto, Che consiglio mi date?
My FXB has a compensator consisting of just big rubber blocks, as you often see on other brands in the rear wheel sprocket assembly.
That's interesting, Dark Horse has an eliminator that uses a cush drive.
I have a 2016RGS with 40k miles. What do you suggest? Engine wise?
I didn't list it in the video and l absolutely should of, the Dark Horse compensator eliminator. It's kinda the best of both worlds. It's the simplicity and reliability of an eliminator but with a cush drive built in.
Drag Specialties Comp had issues when installed into my 2009 FLHTCU last year. It made a lot of chattering noise. My Indy shop told ne to bring it in again and they installed the SE comp. Come to find out that there was an issue with the DS comps at the time I had it installed that DS did not disclose to its dealers. I later found a Dark horse Man of War pulse absorbing rebuildable sprocket that eliminates the Comp. I may go with thw Dark Horse next time.
That Dark Horse is the way to go!
Yep The Crank Works compensator is Strongest.
@@GixxerFoo Good to know next time.
First off if you have a 07 to 09 bike you have to have a compensater the chances of turning the flywheels with a solid sprocket is a sure thing solid sprockets are available with less teeth than stock also if you want to add some acceleration as far as compensaters go the stock 96 comp is junk it will without a doubt will break the splines out of clutch hub & if left alone will take out the starter drive .the screaming eagle will also fail in the end ! I recommend a solid sprocket but if your short of cash I have welded both of those compensaters with good results ! Just remember if you slow down down shift or your gonna get some jerking just like a belt drive primary would do ! 07 to 09 bikes would surely turn the flywheels out of true with that jerking ! Anyway I like your videos keep it up !
That's some good information about 07 to 09, welding them up is a really good idea! Just takes a little adjustment of you're riding style when you do that. Those fly wheels have always been something that's concerned me, you would think something pressed at 40K PSI would run out of true like that. I appreciate you watching, I'll be keeping at it for sure!
I have an 09 Heritage with the 96b engine and am experiencing an occasional loud thunk when I go to start my bike and it's like I have a weak battery and sometimes am having issues in first so I am sure my compensator is having problems, my bike has just under 13k on the clock. The last few days I have been researching enough to make my head spin and have pretty much decided to get the Baker compensator and their chain tensioner kit / primary install package....what I see reference to everywhere is people saying you need to get a different stator cover, but NOBODY says anything other than that so I have questions...
Is the stator cover I need sourced on specific models of Harleys, if so what years?, are they sourced from a specific size engine? if so what size? Can I buy this part from Harley new? if so is it called simply the stator cover? and does it come with the magnets?
Seems like somone would have added this important information in at least one video but none out of the many many videos I have seen so far have said a thing about the stator cover except to say that you need one to install any of these solutions that involve installing a different compensator.
Thanks in advance for the help.
That's why I run a simple but true sprocket and a hydraulic primary tensioner ✊
Affordable and reliable .
Review the Crankworks man o war compensator.$500.00 for the twin cam engine and if you wear it out, the rebuild kit is $40.00.
It's hared to beat that cush drive sprocket they have! They are only ones that building one like that!
I swapped out my broken OEM compensator out with a Baker Compensator and installed a Baker manual primary chain tensioner about two years ago. Both were found broken when I pulled my inner primary out here last month. Went back with a Darkhorse Man O War motorsprocket and original chain tensioner.
Everything Harley appears to made of pie crust..
Harley shops recommend SE parts, because they are HD parts, just better than stock quality.
I own a stock 88ci TC. Do I even need a compensator?
If you want to run a sprocket in place of a compensator, just be sure to keep the Primary chain tension at the proper slack. Too tight, can ruine the sprocket, the primary chain, and the clutch. Not to mention what happens when you run a tight primary chain, and how it pulls the engine and clutch together, until something gives! Not in a good way.
That's good point! You want a manual adjuster with a sprocket, those automatics are known to over tighten the primary chain.
Dealer will recommend the SE over OE part. This tells me HD puts an inferior part in knowing it is destined to fail AFTER warranty expires and they can soak the buyer in the service dept. A good co. would over engineer the part in the beginning. From cam chain tensioners to compensators tells me anyone buying an HD is overpaying on day one.
Always go with the SE part, which actually became OEM in 2010ish I believe. But yes buy the SE Part, it's cheaper than the new OEM part which is the same thing. Makes no sense but go figure lol.
I think HD has no idea what will happen with High Milage on A SE comp.
I have a stock 2011 heritage classic when I turn bike off it has a double knock in compensator area
Thoughts
1980 shovelhead FLT chewed up a belt I just want to clean it before I put it all together what fluids can I use to clean up starting fluid okay
Dude, I'm getting motion sick watching your hands flap like a baby bird trying for it's first flight.
Put your hands in your pockets, or put your palms on the table.
Other than that, thanks for the excellent information.
Have you taken a look at the BDL CS-25A-1 compensator and if so what are your thoughts?
Read my post above Lionel. The BDL is what I use in my shop, highly recommended. SARGE
That's a solid product, they make some good primary conversion kits as well. Not a bad price at all either, especially when they can be had for around 100 bucks.
I am very pleased with my BDL CS-34A compensator and Scott provided outstanding tech to answer questions. I think a lot of people don’t follow the instructions that have any problems. Mine has been awesome and I love the simple design that works.
SE compensator is as bad as 07-> compensator. Waste of money
I take you tried one and it go to crap on you? You would think it would be the be all to end all comparing it to the OEM, you get them side by side and there's a difference in construction.
@@GixxerFoo I've changed tons of compensators. I'm seeing everything made by HD to go bad real quickly. Only thing that seems to last is the eliminator. Although I wouldn't use one with OEM chain tensioner.
07-11 compensators can be fixed by changing the springs but SE compensator wears the legs off making them waste.
Where I live we have no parts easily available and when we do they're so expensive that we need to find alternative solutions.
I could go forever over this issue but I just say that eliminator with Hayden chain tensioner will solve the issue
That's about the only way to truly solve the issue, even with a manual chain tensioner you don't really have to adjust them very often at all.
hope Baker's new design is better than their last model. Mine failed after low mileage. not sure I want to trust them again so I'm gonna try out Dark Horse's version.
I honestly feel like the Dark Horse eliminator is the way to go, it has that cush drive and it is rebuildable.
Do I need the 070 spacer for the 2005 15th anniversary I hear a clapping compensated sound when starting not turning off just starting and at hard throttle I hear a clapping they say I need a spacer I have a biker's choice compensator on there now
You might try that, but that noise is usually indicative of the compensator beginning to let go.
Take a grinder to the nut, compensator deleted, zero dollars
So maybe a dumb question, but I'm gonna get the SE124R crate motor, and to get ready for that power, I was planning on the Baker compensator and the Alloy Arts Cush Chain Drive. Is that overkill?
Not at all! Upgrading there will help prevent issues down the road. Running OEM parts won't hold up nearly as well.
cool video ..i like my 103..
103 is a great bike, they had pretty much all the issues from the 96 worked out by then.
Don't EVER EVER EVER use a SE compensator. They will have to epoxy plastic to the primary cover. Go with the Baker FOR THE WIN!!!!! #NotSponsored
Thanks for sharing, there's also the Dark Horse compensator eliminator. It's sprocket with a cush drive and the cush drive is rebuildable.
I just don’t understand how everything OEM sucks. There’s always a upgrade replacement for damn near everything. I think Harley Davidson‘s look great and ride great but they are the worst and most expensive bikes to own.
I probably did a dumb thing and just added an ebay used comp spring into my existing pack of 3 springs on my new to me stage 4 2000 fxdwg. its kinda solid now, hopefully I didn't do a bad thing?!?!?
Why not highlight what you’re talking about in the images that pop up? Would be helpful. Thanks great content.
So I did the 110 tire shredder full all supporting mods and now I have what almost sounds like valve noise in my primary and also a light clicking when accelerating or rolling on throttle
Up to 06 I highly recommend the BDL. This is NOT of a solid design, and actually, a well thought out unit.
I use this in both my street bikes and my race bikes. I've not received a single complaint from my customers. I do NOT use or recommend the Screaming Eagle. SARGE.
That BDL has a nice price on it too, there's some serious argument out there about sprockets vs. the compensator. But in the end you can't argue with results, especially when you've done enough of them to prove it on race bikes and street bikes alike.
Is that the BDL CS-24A or 25a one?
Good question, he didn't specify. Same build quality, one is a 24 tooth and the other a 25 tooth.
@@GixxerFoo I contacted BDL and for my 2004 EG it will fit the 25 tooth so I ordered one. 😊👍
Sweet! Let me know what you think of it!
Don't forget about the chain tensioner. That's the most important part to be changed. Especially on a Dyna. I'm disappointed in Harley that its not a factory recall.
That's a really sketchy situation with Harley, they never publicly admitted it was problem. But they quietly repaired them they came in, for most people anyhow. It was really bad up through the 2002 model year and they seemed to get it lined out a bit after 2003. 2006 dyna and then Softail and Touring models finally saw the hydraulic tensioners. That still didn't completely remedy it as they still wear out by 60K.
@@GixxerFoo Agreed!
Time for a new design. Maybe like a mini Sprocket on the same hydraulic piston? With an oiled bearing? Last forever!
I wish they just go back to that gear drive system but they tend to get noisy over time. Not so good for meeting government requirements.
Hai.. my Fatboy had an issue while starting time i am hearing a big cluk sound from primary and second time bike starting smoothly...I am experiencing this issue not in every start...
@dirtbagscalifornia what year is this Road King? 14” apes by who?? What model? This bike is beautiful. Great build. 👍👍👍
compensator is junk you dont need one go with eliminator
I am really leaning towards that myself after reading everyone's comments and their preferences. I've always run a compensator, I've rode bikes without them and didn't really notice any difference.
screaming eagle are upgrades for crap stock parts,,,,newer compensators crap out with hd stock engines,
aftermarket parts are available to replace poor quality hd oes parts,,,
That's pretty much the case when it comes to most Harley components in my opinion.
I have a 2012 rgu it came with a sc comp and it went out at 52,000 miles replaced it with Baker and only got 50,000 miles I contacted baker and the tech said that was pretty good for comp so I went back to sc I was thinking about doing the eliminator if it starts acting up.
That's exactly what is pushing me more to the eliminator, I am going to have to a follow up video and include the Dark Horse eliminator. It even has a cush drive built into the unit, you rarely heard of compensator failures on the Evo or Twin Cam 88.
My '09 Road King suffered from the compensator issue(after 65k miles), I replaced with the Screamin Eagle compensator and so far so good, fingers crossed.
That's impressive getting 65K out of an OEM on a 96, 2009 was one of the years they had some serious issues with failures.
85,000 on an Ultra, made multiple videos so my nearest H-D dealer could hear the issue. I’m no mechanic after searching on RUclips I told him what I thought the issue was. He said he never heard of that and of course never figured it out. I got rid of the bike and bought another bike from a out of town dealer. Purchased two more since then and have multiple friends who all bought 2021 bikes. Of course not from the first dealer. Great video brother 😎
@@Heritagejim5339 Yeah, it's sometimes hard to find a good mechanic willing to listen, when I started having issues with mine I took it to my local dealer to have them inspect the compensator, knowing full well that was the issue, after a few days the dealer called me to tell me the compensator was fine and nothing was wrong with it, now I'm no dummy when it comes to all things mechanical, my father was a mechanic and built/raced drag cars for many years and was also a motorcycle enthusiast himself, I myself took 2 1/2 years of auto mechanics in school, so I knew the dealer was just blowing smoke up my a$$ and probably didn't want to be bothered by it, after several weeks of dealing with the issue, I took it back to the dealer and told them to replace it regardless, after another few days the dealer called me to tell me that I was correct that the compensator was bad and not only that but it also took out the lefty bearing and also needed replacement. So, the moral of the story: if you find a good mechanic, stick with him/her regardless of which dealer they work for.
I went with a Twin Power compensator on my 107 TC (117HP/123TQ). It works perfect. Bike starts like it should and it's quiet. I did try the Twin Power chain tensioner, what a POS that was. Loud, didn't last 1200 miles before it came apart. Changed to a Baker unit, now it's all good. I paid hundreds less for the Twin Power over the Baker... HUNDREDS!!!
I am convinced the eliminator is the way to go, compensators just don't last. Did you go with a manual chain adjuster?
@@GixxerFoo ... I had Baker on the brain when I made my comment but remembered I went with the Hayden M6 tensioner. Easy to install, really quiet.
Hayden makes a good solid product!
I test rode a 2000cc Kawasaki Vulcan once and am now wondering if they have a compensator and what would the difference be. I have never heard of a compensator failure in a big Kawi and I'm telling you they are huge and put out gobs of power. Everyone who tested it came back with a huge grin :) I will not part with my Ultra, but sometimes I wonder why the motor company keeps having issues.
The Kawasaki is completely gear driven primary system which doesn't use the compensator like the Harley. Harley made a mistake by carrying over the compensator from the 88 basically, the torque of the 96 caused some issues. They did make the SE compensator the OEM part in 2010 which took care of the issues.
Will a dark horse compensators fit a 2005 103ci flstfse fatboy
That Baker sounds like the best option to me. Thanks for the great information.
"Eliminate failure" ... I did it once on a HD, ended up with only the Japanese parts. 😂
Baker don't make any compensators for Twin cams below year 2006
That's the crappy part, but it seems like the issues didn't really start until the 2007 model. That may be why Baker only makes them for 07 on.
@@GixxerFoo Same with the 2018 Fat Boy, Breakout and FXDR. No comp upgrade options for the 240mm swing arm Softails.
I don't even know why but apparently it's a thing.
I wanted to get the Darkhorse Man O War comp, but it does't have fitment for the FLFBS.
Really? That's interesting, they may just not have them for the M8. Compensators have always had issues on Twin Cams.
You would think, that's my best guess since they are really the same engines. Unless it has something to with the shorter stroke of the 88. I'll just drop a question to Baker ask them.
@@GixxerFoo Yeah Both Baker and DarkHorse have compensators for the standard M8 Softails, And the Touring bikes. They fit all of those bikes, just not the FLFB, FXDR and FLBR frames.
I guess there's something about the width or whatever? I dunno.
Both Baker and DarkHorse both have FLFBS, FXDR, and FLBR as not compatable with their comps.
The only option is an eleminator sprocket or the Forged ramp section for the OEM comp.
I have no idea why.
Whats your thoughts on running an eliminator in a twin cam without welding the crank? I have an 08 twin cam 96 that I recently installed woods 222 cams. Next I was going in the other side to replace the primary chain tensioner to a manual one and was thinking of eliminating the compensator while I'm in there.
I would go with a Dark Horse eliminator, it has a cush drive and it's rebuildable.
Don't cheap out, get the DarkHorse and forget about it! Put 1 in my 2014 FLHTK 2yrs ago & just installed 1 on my 2015 FLHR today. In 30k+ miles I'll just refurbish each for less than $50 (already bought the rebuild kits). Well worth the $440.
I chewed up a belt I just want to clean it and I wanted to know what fluid to use can I spray on the compensator with on the wires
I think I'll do like Harley ... Sell a crapy item then sell you parts to make it better .
I went with a direct bolt up 27 tooth engine sprocket from Evolution industries, and I'm using their race clutch. I was destroying at least two primary chains per season till Baker started selling solid roller primary chains. Now I don't have any problems with my primary. And all that power is going to the rear wheel. Check out Evolution industries, they only make high quality products.
great content
I associate a compensator eliminator, to a Ford cam phaser, eliminator. Damned if you do, damned if you dont.
Pretty much, there's a give and take on both sides. Although Dark Horse has a pretty good compromise with their eliminator, it has that rebuildable rubber cush drive. Lol you can hear it squeak if you getting on it real hard shifting through the gears.
Does anyone have the part number for the Screamin Eagle compensator?
Was/is this an issue on the TC88 engines?
This wasn't a huge issue with the 88, not say it doesn't happen. This issue really started to happen on the 96, Harley updated the compensator and reduced the amount of failures. This updated compensator went into the 103, they still fail but it's not nearly as often as it was with the pre-update compensator on the 96.
My '09 Deluxe is starting hard after it's warmed up; cold is no issue. I don't want to assume it's the compensator because if needed I would go all out with a Man O' War from Dark Horse. Strange thing is, if I don't let the fuel pump prime fully before starting there isn't an issue with a hard start. Anyone else have issue with a solution? Could be the starter clutch, battery, etc...not sure where to start.
Will be opening up the primary anyways to replace the stock tensioner so I'll take a look at the compensator as well.
Yup;mine did; just had one come in and vibrating bad. B engine -
Compensator nut loose .
Rotor spun off splines and was spinning on engine shaft. Lucky engine shaft was ok.
Harley does not put red locktight on the nut from factory. I was lucky also . Look for inner primary cover damage also .
Well I loaded mine with the red locktight- 😁✊👍🏻
Has it stayed on this time 😆?!
@@GixxerFoo so far -so good - about 1500 mi .
Very nice! Red loctite does some wonders, now getting it back off lol.
@@GixxerFoo 😁😁😁✊👍🏻
I had the exact same thing happen on my bike. I was only about 5 miles out, went straight back home. Comp bolt had started to get loose. Pulled it off, cleaned it. Reinstall with red lock tight. Seemed to fix it. Shortly after, I started to have starting issues when warm. Is this still a sign of a bad compensator? My comp is quite. Just a starting clank when warm. Cold starts are perfect.
Just picked up a pristine '08 Road Glide. Compensator seems fine with stock motor but I'm thinking of doing a simple cam upgrade either the Wood TW222 or 6-6. Given the anticipated bump in torque, would you consider upgrading the compensator or letting it ride to see how it holds up? In other words pro-active or wait and see??
It wouldn't hurt to upgrade the compensator with the cam, but you could do the cam upgrade and let the compensator ride for while. Basically what Harley did around 2010 was make the Screamin Eagle compensator the OEM. The SE is good upgrade but if you want to spend a little more you can get the Dark Horse compensator eliminator with the rebuildable cush drive, those things are awesome!
Dark horse does make a great compensator
That's the best choice out there in my opinion, that cush drive is a lot simpler and it can be rebuilt.
I just replaced my compensator this weekend. Unfortunately due to funds I had to go with the drag specialties, which is a three-piece kit direct replacement of the stock unit in my 2009 103 electric glide police. Bike runs amazing though, the wife and I did 162 miles on Sunday. Feels like a brand new bike at 72,000 miles.
That's awesome when you got a bike with that kinda mileage and they still run like new!
@@GixxerFoo I ride it every day for the most part
I've experienced starter grind and hard startups when warm with a 96 touring. I don't want to assume the comp is bad because it doesn't really make noise otherwise. Leaning towards an eliminator to save cost and rotating mass weight. But with 40k on the motor I don't want to wear it out prematurely.
Hey there,
I see you commented about a year back...did you replace the compensator yet?
My 96" also presents with what you describe.
Thanks man
Did you replace it with an elliminator yet ?