Thank you, Ron, for the R5Mark II settings. I have been using them for a while now, and they've made my birding experience more enjoyable because my success rate has improved tremendously.
Great video! For the white in the leg, when I have to calm down an overly bright part of the image I will mask with a brush and lower with the highlight slider which works pretty well too. Great tips! Thank you!
Thats another great video Ron and for Lighthroom beginners like myself extremely useful. Only thing i struggle with is 1) where should you store finished photos Eg jpegs. and 2) are they stored alongside all Retained RAWS ? Thanks for the terrific info.
Thank you for the kind words about the video. I store my finished photos both TIFFs and JPGs on an external hard drive in a folder named for the year (e.g., Wildlife Processed 2024) Within that folder I have the images organized in subfolders by Species. The corresponding RAW files are on the same drive under a folder again named for the year (e.g., 2024 RAWs). I have subfolders under the 2024 RAWs folder corresponding to the date the images were taken. I have a backup program on my desktop computer (Macrium Reflect) that I have programmed to automatically back up both my Wildlife Processed 2024 and 2024 RAWs folders to a separate drive in a separate location. It is programmed to back up any new additions to the folders every weekday at 9am. I hope this helps. Ron
Hi Ron, thanks so much for taking the time and effort to answer my question. That info was so helpful and I will implement exactly that method in my storage. Thanks again , your a top man !
In my experience, addressing noise is more effective when the image is still 'RAW', especially with high ISOs. As soon as you send the photo from LR to PS and process it there, it converts into pixels. For me, either the denoise inside LR or DXO PureRaw is my starting point. I might use Topaz DeNoise AI or Photo AI at the end of my workflow to suppress noise in local areas of the photo.
Thanks for the kind words. Export to JPG is an alternative for sure. However, I prefer using an action to automate the steps and in the end invoke Topaz for sharpening and denoising. What do you find as an advantage to using the Export to JPG? Cheers, Ron
@whistlingwingsphotography I basically use the same workload up to and including DeNoise. Then I usually save a 2nd Tiff with a ''D" suffix. This allows me to load the 2nd Tiff to recreate the JPG if I need to. I can't think of any advantages using the Export route, just personal preference I guess... btw the only irritating thing about the R5 Mk II is the on/off button now on the right because I occasionally flick the camera/video button thinking I'm turning it off as per the old R5!!..
@@andyambrose4517 There are many people, including myself, who mix up the new Stills/Video switch for the ON/OFF switch. Not sure why Canon does stuff like that. They must like seeing people get confused. Ron
Changing the Background layer to a regular pixel layer is not so much about what you end up saving the image as with regards to file type. It has to do with the limitations placed on Background layers such as always having to be at the bottom of the layers stack, cannot be moved, repositioned, or have their transparency adjusted, etc. That being said, I do less and less actual processing in Photoshop as Lightroom Classic has been improved for editing, so changing the Background layer to a regular pixel layer is not so important to my workflow these days. Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment. Ron
Adobe doesn't show you the true raw file, for those that weren't aware. It puts a medium contrast curve on in the background and doesnt tell you. This affects the saturation as well, and apparant noise levels. It also plays with the exposure. It makes you think areas may be blown out that are in fact not. You cant trust that adjusted histogram, believe it or not.
@@whistlingwingsphotography @markrigg6623 If I can chip in here - I don't like any of Adobe's canned profiles for Canon cameras in particular. I find that the "under the hood" contrast boost - even in a standard or neutral profile - hard to work with. I don't mind them so much for landscape work, but for wildlife I struggle with them! I tried using Capture One a few years back and I was far happier with its handling of contrast, but I couldn't get on with the software generally. Ron - my solution was to build my own camera-specific linear profiles and work with those. It's more work, granted, because you're effectively rebuilding the image from an extremely low base in terms of contrast, exposure and saturation but I prefer to work this way than fighting against profiles that do too much. I know it's each to his/her own and you may get on with Adobe profiles (you clearly do because your images are superb) but this is the way I work around what is a problem for me. Thanks for a great and informative video.
@whistlingwingsphotography ruclips.net/video/XNlrQeRXjU0/видео.htmlsi=qbLTS9zWuRGebrO5. This guy is the only youtuber that I support with patreon. His depth of knowledge on all aspects of photography absolutely astounds me.
Appreciate what you are trying to show, but idk if you have a really big monitor, but the resolution and the way it looks on youtube, makes it really hard to see what you are showing because the fonts are so small they are not readable
Yep, I understand, but my monitor set up is what it is. I don't do RUclips videos to make money, just to try and help others a bit. So, I am not willing to spend the time and money necessary to make a tutorial like this optimized for viewing. I tried to find a cursor highlighter and magnifier that works for this purpose, but it was a search fraught with frustration. So, I just did what I could do. I guess folks that are really interested will just have to do the best they can following along on their computers. Ron
Thank you, Ron, for the R5Mark II settings. I have been using them for a while now, and they've made my birding experience more enjoyable because my success rate has improved tremendously.
Excellent workflow! Thank you for showing some of the details of what you do. Great help.
You're very welcome! Thanks so much for watching.
Great video! For the white in the leg, when I have to calm down an overly bright part of the image I will mask with a brush and lower with the highlight slider which works pretty well too. Great tips! Thank you!
Great, thanks for the input. Much appreciated.
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to add your input. Ron
Really good and thorough explanation, thanks for the information!
My pleasure! Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
Thats another great video Ron and for Lighthroom beginners like myself extremely useful. Only thing i struggle with is 1) where should you store finished photos Eg jpegs. and 2) are they stored alongside all Retained RAWS ?
Thanks for the terrific info.
Thank you for the kind words about the video. I store my finished photos both TIFFs and JPGs on an external hard drive in a folder named for the year (e.g., Wildlife Processed 2024) Within that folder I have the images organized in subfolders by Species. The corresponding RAW files are on the same drive under a folder again named for the year (e.g., 2024 RAWs). I have subfolders under the 2024 RAWs folder corresponding to the date the images were taken. I have a backup program on my desktop computer (Macrium Reflect) that I have programmed to automatically back up both my Wildlife Processed 2024 and 2024 RAWs folders to a separate drive in a separate location. It is programmed to back up any new additions to the folders every weekday at 9am. I hope this helps. Ron
Hi Ron, thanks so much for taking the time and effort to answer my question. That info was so helpful and I will implement exactly that method in my storage.
Thanks again , your a top man !
In my experience, addressing noise is more effective when the image is still 'RAW', especially with high ISOs. As soon as you send the photo from LR to PS and process it there, it converts into pixels. For me, either the denoise inside LR or DXO PureRaw is my starting point. I might use Topaz DeNoise AI or Photo AI at the end of my workflow to suppress noise in local areas of the photo.
Great video Ron... what are your thoughts on using the Export to JPG route, rather than Save As...also CTRL E is a shortcut to Edit in PS
Thanks for the kind words. Export to JPG is an alternative for sure. However, I prefer using an action to automate the steps and in the end invoke Topaz for sharpening and denoising. What do you find as an advantage to using the Export to JPG? Cheers, Ron
@whistlingwingsphotography I basically use the same workload up to and including DeNoise. Then I usually save a 2nd Tiff with a ''D" suffix. This allows me to load the 2nd Tiff to recreate the JPG if I need to. I can't think of any advantages using the Export route, just personal preference I guess... btw the only irritating thing about the R5 Mk II is the on/off button now on the right because I occasionally flick the camera/video button thinking I'm turning it off as per the old R5!!..
@@andyambrose4517 There are many people, including myself, who mix up the new Stills/Video switch for the ON/OFF switch. Not sure why Canon does stuff like that. They must like seeing people get confused. Ron
Is there a reason to change background layer to layer 0 while saving as tiff? Thank you for the useful video.
Changing the Background layer to a regular pixel layer is not so much about what you end up saving the image as with regards to file type. It has to do with the limitations placed on Background layers such as always having to be at the bottom of the layers stack, cannot be moved, repositioned, or have their transparency adjusted, etc. That being said, I do less and less actual processing in Photoshop as Lightroom Classic has been improved for editing, so changing the Background layer to a regular pixel layer is not so important to my workflow these days. Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment. Ron
Thank you for the prompt reply. I understand the reason. It makes a lot of sense now. Waiting for more great videos.
Hey there I’m looking for a good lens for sharp images like the kingfisher you showed in the video
What is your price range? What system are you shooting (Canon, Nikon, Sony)?
@@whistlingwingsphotography canon and I’m on like a budget because I’m gonna buy tripod and tent to hide so not too too much u know something used to
@@dorianetcetera2264 Canon 200-800mm RF is one option. Has the reach and IQ, but a bit slow. But on a budget it is not bad choice.
Adobe doesn't show you the true raw file, for those that weren't aware. It puts a medium contrast curve on in the background and doesnt tell you. This affects the saturation as well, and apparant noise levels. It also plays with the exposure. It makes you think areas may be blown out that are in fact not. You cant trust that adjusted histogram, believe it or not.
Okay, so what do you do about all of what you mentioned?
@@whistlingwingsphotography @markrigg6623 If I can chip in here - I don't like any of Adobe's canned profiles for Canon cameras in particular. I find that the "under the hood" contrast boost - even in a standard or neutral profile - hard to work with. I don't mind them so much for landscape work, but for wildlife I struggle with them! I tried using Capture One a few years back and I was far happier with its handling of contrast, but I couldn't get on with the software generally. Ron - my solution was to build my own camera-specific linear profiles and work with those. It's more work, granted, because you're effectively rebuilding the image from an extremely low base in terms of contrast, exposure and saturation but I prefer to work this way than fighting against profiles that do too much. I know it's each to his/her own and you may get on with Adobe profiles (you clearly do because your images are superb) but this is the way I work around what is a problem for me. Thanks for a great and informative video.
@@mikebrownhill4662 Great, thanks for chiming in with all of this. It will help others. Ron
@whistlingwingsphotography ruclips.net/video/XNlrQeRXjU0/видео.htmlsi=qbLTS9zWuRGebrO5. This guy is the only youtuber that I support with patreon. His depth of knowledge on all aspects of photography absolutely astounds me.
Appreciate what you are trying to show, but idk if you have a really big monitor, but the resolution and the way it looks on youtube, makes it really hard to see what you are showing because the fonts are so small they are not readable
Yep, I understand, but my monitor set up is what it is. I don't do RUclips videos to make money, just to try and help others a bit. So, I am not willing to spend the time and money necessary to make a tutorial like this optimized for viewing. I tried to find a cursor highlighter and magnifier that works for this purpose, but it was a search fraught with frustration. So, I just did what I could do. I guess folks that are really interested will just have to do the best they can following along on their computers. Ron