Can you please stop commentary and put original voice of the work that will be so satisfying and you will get more views after making these master pieces.
Regarding the material changes, and finish pulling off... On future projects, or even when correcting this beauty, take an exacto knife and cut through the finish at the brass. This will allow the table and metal to expand, contract, shrink, and swell independently of one another. Important added tip, feel free to waste 1 exacto blade per each pass through the finish. The blades are cheap, but can dull quickly. It'll save you a headache to just burn through a bunch of cheap blades than messing up the wood or the metal. That table is gorgeous by the way, great job!!!
you could have EASILY asked for DOUBLE THE PRICE and it still wouldn't have cover all that labor!!! And I bet you these clients that got SUCH AN AMAZING DEAL on SUCH A BEAUTIFUL TABLE will be the PICKIEST and COMPLAINIEST about that fix you do.. and they will keep calling you every time their cat scratches it or something small... and they will EXPECT ALL THE FIXES FOR FREE because they "paid soooo much for it" lol - or not! I have no idea who they are lol ... that's just how it usually goes tho.... you give someone a great deal and then they expect you to ALWAYS bend over backwards for them and continue giving them deals.... If that #30,000 table looks anywhere CLOSE to how perfect this beauty looks, then I TOTALLY UNDERSTAND that price!!! - Don't sell yourself short bro, you have MAD TALENT!! And TONS OF KNOWLEDGE!!! Don't be afraid to charge premium prices... but you NEED TO UNDERCUT the big names until you get some recognition and respect... you REALLY KILLED IT ON THIS ONE!! - = { !!WOW!! } = -
After seeing the glut of silly "river" tables with live edges, it's cool to see a genuinely nice table. The brass accents look really good against the wood.
the table looks very good, but I'm concerned about the brass accents. If they went with the grain, maybe they wouldn't be a problem. But against the grain, they probably will be. I've only used metal, (brass also) rarely. And if I did, they were usually small in length. This would scare me.
@@paulkramer4176 What problem would there be with the brass accents? And why does the grain direction matter with them? I've never had a problem but also only used metal accents on small projects, nothing as large as a table.
When I trained as furniture maker the first thing my mentor taught me was, you cannot ever account or be responsible for the acclimation of the piece, you can explain to the new owner how it will react in different environments but you as the maker are not responsible for that acclimation. I live in Cornwall in the Uk and our houses are old, hundreds of years old, Some of them were just barns in another life and the humidity is high. If this had been a piece I was making it would have cost double the fee you charged.
I ahwvnt watched the whole video yet. But I also never take responsibility for seasonal movement. Everytime I make something I tell them where the problematic parts/joints are and what can happen. Our new built homes in Lithuania have to be A++ rating. It makes them extremely warm and dry during winter months. I've seen some homes lower than 40% relative humidity. There's no way I can make wooden furniture that can resist something like that. So I just tell them there's gonna be movement and possible defects. If they accept then I'm making it. If they can't accept it then I decline the order.
I agree, the amount of expertise behind the effort warrants a price closer to the $30k you mentioned. For a corporate boardroom, thats an easy item to expense. Amazing dedication to quality and let's hope the winter challenges can be overcome.
SHUT UP!! seriously just SHUT UP already!!! I have things that I need to get done and I Do Not Care what stupid shit your sister has gotten up to /this time/!!!!! arglbrglfjdnsa;jf!!!@!
Ok mate, so we used Dulux clear for our brass work here in oz , and also used lemon juice and salt before doing the last polish on the brass prior to clean and clear coat with the dulux clear . Excellent adhesion and moves with the brass as it expands. Also with the table you need a scribe line between the timber and brass , its the only way to let them move without cracking the clear coat . Hope that helps 😊
Thanks for that. I was thinking that I will have to make a small v groove between the walnut and brass to keep that finish seperate. What does the lemon juice and salt do? And thanks again
Oh btw a good tip for cutting tape to any size you want is to freeze it first. If you freeze the tape it makes it super easy to cut on a band saw. Just a little tip a custom car painter showed me and ive been doing ever since.
I watch a reasonably large number of woodworking projects on RUclips and I think this is the first time I've said this: You definitely charged too little for that table! The quality of your work and the meticulous dedication to your craft elevates this to what I think is a work of art. I'm not a marketer or expert by any means, but anyone who's willing to pay $8500 for a table, will pay $10-12k. I'm not sure how many hours you spent on this or what the materials cost, but work of this caliber deserves much more than what they paid for this, especially if that cost includes delivery. I can throw a dart and hit a woodworker that can craft a $2-4k table, you're easily 3x better than that simply due to your adherence to process. Don't sell yourself short. Perhaps the next stress/challenge for you will be accepting that you've graduated to another level.
I just came to the comments to say that. I watch woodworking videos as sort of therapy, but have made some observations about quality and pricing. This table is absolutely worth much more, but yet again, coming up with fair pricing is probably some sort of learning curve. I'm far from being a target group for buying such high-end furniture (I also live in other side of the world), but I think I can recognise when a piece is made with precision to detail and eye for visual pleasurability (not sure it's even a word, English obviously is not my first language :D). I've studied design and although my field has now changed I still find it extremely enjoyable to look meticulously made pieces. What many makers can't get right in my eyes are the proportions, but here everything was perfect. I think although getting the proportions right is somewhat learnable, one also has to have some natural talent.
Gah! That's heart breaking, absolutely stunning table. Next level work for sure. Shame on the clients for not putting it in a climate controlled room ;-)
For sure! We recommend whole home humidifers all the time for customers with art or pieces of furniture they want to help keep long lasting. Although, the brass and wood will always move at different rates; no matter how much is controlled- brass will always win...
Very nice job finishing the table. Much the same process that we use only with different products in the marine industry on super high end wood boats requiring a deep high gloss varnish finish. The process ends up applying around 12 coats over sealed wood. Absolutely beautiful craftsmanship.
I have always wondered why table makers invariably use plates to fix the base to the top and C channels for reinforcement the slab ~ good to finally see someone combining both
As one professional woodworker to another congratulations in performing a very nice build. I personally don't like using breadboard ends for the problems that always occur as you've seen and I know that many clients like them but I would always try to convince them of the problems that can occur if they want that look( especially when you have as many coats of finish as you've done) and that they aren't necessary when you have the stretchers properly applied underneath as you've done. And yes I think you definitely under priced ! The only other concern I might have is in the application of the brass sheet stock on the legs making sure to keep the mounting holes a bit larger than the screw shank to avoid any problems with wood movement that could occur on the legs themselves.
I appreciate all of your insight. I dislike breadboard ends as well for many reasons. The screws will be able to take the stress of the wood movement of the legs. The screws that are furthest apart are 4 inches. So wood movement would be neglegable and unimportant. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
I love the table, the color, and that beautiful finish. I love your attention to detail. I feel bad for you that the work is ruined by the breadboard end. I despise breadboard ends. The always move a little and I can't deal with the side of the table being different widths. I'll never do a breadboard again. I hope you find a good solution.
Beautiful table! I love when folks share not only the good but the challenging situations they have to deal with. Thank you for sharing and being true about your projects!
Wow. Just wow. Your finishing process is next level. I love the brass with the dark/black walnut. You don't cease to amaze me. Thanks for showing the issue with the finish and I look forward to seeing how you fix it.
Hey , that table absolutely blew me away! The high-gloss finish was mesmerizing, and your skill throughout the build was seriously inspiring. You turned a pile of wood into a work of art. But got to be honest, the news about the Finnish and varnish at the end had me holding my breath a bit. It's a good reminder that even the most flawless projects can have hiccups, and I appreciate you being upfront about it. That honesty speaks volumes about your character and commitment to quality. Can't wait to see how you tackle the fix! I have no doubt you'll handle it with the same expert skill and problem-solving prowess you showed throughout the video. Keep us posted!
I understand the pain of creating something beautiful that was severely underpriced. My partner and i made a concrete bartop that had whole oysters scattered throughout. It was the first time we used an aggregate like oyster and didn't know how much time and work would go into the countertop. In order to have a cross section of oyster to show in your finish, you need to grind and polish down a lot further than typical. Going forward, our price for a similar piece would be at least double per square foot.
I can only admire and be jealous of your skill and craftsmanship. This is just beautiful! Even though you lost on it as far as the labor you spent, but if taken that out of it, you did fantastic!
You created an absolute masterpiece . I am sorry you put so much of your heart and soul into your product to lose money in the end. Your customer should be grateful for he commissioned you to build this masterpiece. You are a stand up guy and your work proves it. Not many people like you are left on this earth. I hope you make it up going forward.
Wow, that table is just stunning, what an absolutely beautiful looking finish, you have some amazing skills and patience. Me, I'm just a hobbyist woodworker in my spare time just wishing that I had your skills. I can't believe that I'm saying this. Usually I watch table build videos and I say to myself that the buyer is happy to pay a lot (if not too much) for a commissioned table. But in your case I say that the buyer paid way too little. That's the first and probably only time I'm ever going to say that about a RUclips table build. Anyway, keep up the good work. I'm sure you'll sort the pulled finished issue out for your client...
The only thing I dont like about this table are the screws in the brass on the legs. I feel like if you used epoxy then you could have used full sheets of brass with no holes. The screws give it a mechanical feel that doesn't really go well with the design.
WOW what a gorgeous table! Nicely done. One thing I dislike about brass is that it tarnishes and once you start the process of polishing you give yourself a life long job.
@@FortressFineWoodworks Sorry mate, but simply "clear coating" just WON'T WORK for the long run. Ask any boatie. Clear powder coating is the ONLY way.
😮... 😮! Omg. That is beyond gorgeous. Ngl, all the wood in my house got a black gel stain last year, but none of it was a solid walnut table. It's funny, I UTTERLY ABHOR painting out beautiful wood furniture, but changing the stain didn't bother me. However I made certain it was all pieces that would be reasonably easy to refinish at some point. There's something about black stained wood with a hit of brass that screams luxury. But nothing 'on trend' stays forever... Walnut and brass though will never not scream the same thing.
This is really incredible work! The detail with the sanding and finish is next level. Some of the other techniques are also impressive. My woodworking is basic and I’ll never be able to do stuff like this but I can appreciate the skill and enjoy watching videos like this
Keyboard warrior here 🙂 The only fix I see is to apply a larger strip of brass. 1. Apply heat (air gun?) on the polished surface along the strip and remove it with brutal force. The softened surface should prevents from cracks. 2. Apply again heat and carve a (very) deeper and wider slot with a portable milling tool 3. Fill the slot with a generous amount polyurethane transparent resin 4. Push/fit the new strip until it is flush with the surface and the resin squishes out from the borders of the table. Make a test before.
The problem is the adhesion of the finish to the brass. There needs to be a separation between the finish on the table, and the brass on the breadboard end. Problem solved. Thanks for watching!
This is phenomenal, I feel for you with the cracking problem, the detail you put into this for such a small price in insane, most other RUclips creators just slap a coat of Rubio on and send if off for two times the price, these guys have no idea how to finish a table to perfection like you 👍👍
A wonderful piece of art. I always thought about full wood with metal inlays but it's not easy to handle the different shrinking characteristics of both materials.
Well, metal shrinks and expands based on temperature. And a house commonly stays the same general temperature year around. So the only variable to really consider is making sure wood movement can occur. Thanks for watching!
@@FortressFineWoodworks your right. Metal shrinking depend as you said on temperature. Wood also on moisture. So you have (at least here in Germany) a big difference between summer and winter. So my dining table is about 5mm taller in summer. But nevertheless, to your project. Maybe its better to apply your finish only on the wooden part. Or separately. Or use a shellac polish. So you don't build up material. Mmmh its a wonderful but very challenging project. But its only brainstorming. I would do some test pieces and would stress them with cold and warm conditions.
Hi 👋, F F Ww. Great looking 👀 job, a lot of work, shame about the problem at the end, hopefully you can fix it relatively easy, over the many years, nearly 50, I’ve had a few problems similar to you, and probably likewise for other, when working by yourself, you try to do things and end up, causing yourself problems, two jobs come to mind one be in a large dining room table that I had to re-polish in somebody’s house, unbeknown to me, there was a spider like in, in one of the two chandeliers, my finish coat got ruined. It decided to come down onto the tabletop, and sadly the spider came to a dramatic end, but left its body and legs in the lacquer., nearly a weeks work, all ruined in probably a few minutes, it took me two days to flatten back the finished coat to apply another two or three coats, and you won’t believe it, I made a very large rosewood decorative bar for a display, for a company that made very high end, stainless steel and bronze components for yachts and ships, the week I started pushing it purposely gone round with an air gun to blow down all, cobwebs, dust, et cetera, and that is right three days before the delivery, I had another spider come from somewhere, this time I had to work all day all night and all day or the next day to try and I’m refinish the surface. Luckily I got it done, And yes, turning a table top or doors over by yourself , can cause problems, I’ve got quite a few plastic trestles, I sent them out to put a very large 2 1/2 thick door onto that I have made, and in the process of fitting all the hardware, I had to turn the door over, one of the plastic trestles decided to collapse, it all happened in slow motion,, I did put a slight dent into one side, but managed to resurface the edge, never used, plastic trestles anymore, I/we look forward to seeing the outcome of the problem with the finish on the table, I hope you can get it resolved without having to bring it back to the workshop, good luck for the future, look forward to seeing some more amazing products, Phil from the moulin France.
Hi Phil from Moulin! Sounds like you need some spider traps! Those dang things! I'm sorry to hear your projects nearly got ruined by bugs! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Phil, I think anyone in the crafts who has years behind them, has experienced the panic, the terror of last minute problems. And no, other than learning different ways to try to be truthful with the client, I don't think there was anything to be gained from those situations. Well, they are good for story telling now that my body retired me from the work.
Brass and dark wood, such an elegant look that somehow manages to keep that rustic feel. You knocked it out of the park! Hope the solution with the finish isn't too tough on you
Beautiful table. Sorry about the coating pulling away like that. It happens. I did paint and body work for years and let me say if something can go wrong, it will. Or at least it seems that way. You mentioned burning through the top coat and exposing the under coat. That happens when you're buffing out a paint finish on a car too. I enjoyed your video and picked up some pointers, since I'm thinking I'll try doing some of that work myself. I think I'll start with something small, like a cutting board. Small mistakes are cheaper than big ones. Nice work you're doing.
Dont get me wrong its a nice table, but dang for only $8500 you totally under priced that. Way to much risk in being responsible with damaging it throughout the project and then on top of that being responsible for how it expands months later. Definitely not worth it.
That is an amazing look and it's a real shame about the brass inlay pulling off the finish due to contraction. I'm trying to think what a good solution would've been. Also, if there's going to be a very dark stain, I wonder how visibly different it would've been if you'd used maple/poplar/oak or one of the more common species with the same finishing process (besides the obvious wood grain differences).
Honestly, any other wood would have looked great, but the customer specifically wanted a walnut table, and for it to be nearly black. So they got what they wanted
Years ago, I built 15 walnut tables for a restaurant that were pretty much painted black. It made me sick, until said restaurant handed me a check that paid for my new truck.
I don’t understand how somebody paid almost $10,000 for a table can’t keep their house at a pretty constant temperature…. I have my apartment set at 73° summer winter
So glad the algorithm Gods provided this channel to me. I'm so conflicted after watching this build though. In a machine design engineer role by day regularly living in a world of very tight tolerance, and a amateur hobby woodworker by weekend, wood has always been beautiful to me because it's not perfect. I can be very happy hiding behind "it's close enough". It caries the "character" also that comes from something that is one of a kind and once alive, as opposed to "dead" machined or precisely ground tool steels. Trying to achieve the perfection you have is incredible, but seems in some way disrespectful - trying to fight against mother nature. I know how this sounds, but I'm oddly satisfied the finish failed around the inlay.
Geez I wonder how you can fix that, I feel like the brass inlays almost need to be floating separately from the finish. Good luck keep us posted. P.S. I’m a Autobody painter
Thanks for sharing, beautiful table, but remember, average guy watching, do not be intimidated by professionals with polished camera shots, keep enjoying your amateur's workshop. "Anything worth doing is worth doing badly." -G.K. Chesterton
Great question! 11 coats of sealer and 2 coats of topcoat. So 13. And naturally this would be too thick for this finish, but with all the sanding in between, it reduces the final mil thickness
@@FortressFineWoodworks man so impressive. Didn’t imagine it would take so many. And also shame about the finish pulling apart. Wood is gonna do what it wants. Can’t anticipate every possible movement. But you sure tried. Put a lot of thought into that.
magnificent! I would however recommend trying out flooring finishes for projects like this. you can do very thick coats with flooring finishes. I recommend two in particular: bona traffic hd and bergerseidle greenstar. the greenstar has an 18 hour open window once mixed with the hardener. also greenstar is foodsafe. also check out greenstar shpachtel gel to fill the grain. I don't have much experience with it. I have filled many floors by mixing filler with sawdust, but the method you used might have been a little too heavy. much respect, absolutely stunning result!
one more thing i forgot to tell you about flooring finishes, the sealers are unique in that they allow for wood movement without the finish breaking apart because floors move so much. There is one in particular that is extra flexy, called flex sealer/flex primer by bergerseidle. I don't know how well that would work with brass, also I don't know if you'll be able to apply it over certain stains, just food for thought. floor finishing companies are in very strong competition because it's a big market... your average floor refinisher uses many buckets of finish a month and even more for gym floor guys @@FortressFineWoodworks
I am total amateur, but came up one thought. Humidity is what cause wood "playing", right? so to prevent that, wood have to be sealed from all sides. Maybe this could have help, when before assembling those horizontal top table brass sheets, you would spraysealed these surfaces inside tabel?
I suppose the boards and the brass inlays should have very tight fit but be covered with their finishing compounds separately. You remove the brass kept in place by some temporary solution, cover the grooves, finish the board, finish the brass and glue it back in. The fit of the brass will be even tighter than it was because of the coating on it. And maybe it will be reasonable to cool the top and freeze the brass inlays prior to the assembly for them to shrink and fit easier.
Nice command of the tools, materials, and processes. Thank you for taking the time to share. As a neophyte woodworker, I have nothing to contribute about your woodworking. However, I do have something to suggest about the topic of Being that you cross into during the last few minutes. Happiness isn't complex (stress=happiness in its own farfetched way), rather, happiness is nothing more (or less) a function of acceptance, period, hard stop. So happiness isnʼt a hard thing to obtain as you suggest as it just shows up naturally and effortlessly when you accept what is, no matter what is. Now acceptance is another story 😉.
Thats some deep stuff. I'd say, acceptance is a rather complex and challenging thing to have. And since it is so, that would make happiness a challenge for me as a person. I think both things can be true at the same time, and I agree with you 100%.
Paradoxically, the simpler a thing is the more difficult to obtain. This is true for abstractions meaning the simplest abstraction and that is the idea of nothing is the most difficult to comprehend. As you demoed, a simple flat smooth clear finish really takes something! I’ve complexified simplicity for a long time as there was a very important payoff for me. Doing it that way (complexifying things) allowed me a sense of control to guide the speed and movement of conversations. Only you can say what complexity is for you if you follow my drift. It appears deep (seeing it through the filter of complexity) and looking back it appears ridiculously simple. Someone said “context is decisive.” Shifting one’s context is doable and requires an unusual degree of openness and commitment. Circling back, accept and be happy with a complex outlook! If you can apply 10 coats of finish to a piece of wood after sanding the hell out of it then you have the wherewithal to achieve anything! Thank you for being open to engage.
That might work for you, but I say BS. There is way too much ugly bad terrible wrong bent that we all can benefit from by learning to find a level of acceptance (better than going nuts), but in those rare occasions when I have been able to truly do that, it didn't, nor would I want to be happy in those times.
@@shopshop144Thanks for speaking up. I agree with you. Acceptance doesn't mean being happy all the time. Some things are really sad like when people die. What’s appropriate then is to be sad if you are sad. I'm not proposing some standard for how people should feel. Without going into a long thing the idea is captured in the saying “pain is inevitable, suffering is optional.” My intention is to communicate that we have more say in the matter than is usually recognized.
Very nice work. It feel's like you have automotive painting experience as I know some people that have done custom automotive work follow many of the same processes.
Try using steel wool to brush brass, or alternatively a sctochbright scuff pad, tends to do the job nicely without potentially losing too much material.
Having been in this business a long time, I can tell you that making pieces for clients in other parts of the country is hard. Especially when you have a metal/ wood interface of any size. New people always want to spend half their life getting that seam dialed in and spotless, then are shocked when they get the call from the annoyed client (please reference the look on your face @ 18:39 lol). I always "celebrate the contrast" by placing a design element at the transition so I know 100% where that failure will happen. Tiny grooves, shadow lines, etc. all do the job nicely. If they MUST have the flush mating surface then I have the client sign a design waiver that states what will happen and what my company WILL NOT DO to "fix" it. We've all been in your shoes- just do your best to make it right and learn from it. Also, always build up coats of high gloss and if the client calls for satin/matte, make the last two coats satin- your depth will show through versus being muddy. Beautiful work, good luck.
Let me save you some headache... use mohawk grain filler, sher-wood lacquer sealer and mohawk piano lacquer x 5 coats sealer x15 to 20 coats piano lacquer. Can be done in one day then sand and polish or hand rub. "The 15-20 coats piano lacquer can/ needs to be done in 1 day" You spray that piano lacquer 1 job and you will understand. That's how we finish and refinish pianos.
@FortressFineWoodworks it's plenty durable we have done many tables although here people like the hand rub look over polish. This is how it's been done for people in the know for decades. Also the 15 to 20 coats of piano lacquer all cross link if sprayed in 1 day which is easy too do. Nothing to burn through on the flats if your polishing as it will be solid. Hella more forgiving than emron to repair if you do burn through the edges.
Hi, Awesome build and the finish is truly superb. But as someone who has worked with brass, I see a few places where you can improve. First, a band saw cuts brass just fine, especially if you buy a metal cutting blade, and it’s much less dangerous than using a table saw. The sight of those brass chips flying about gave me the willies. Yes, you should always wear gloves to avoid finger prints, but cleaning the surface with mild acid can be very effective. Also Brasso actually has its uses, but you might not like the finish it leaves. One issue with brass is that it expands in heat and contracts in cold and it would be something of a miracle if it was at the same rate and time as the wood expanding and contracting with humidity. I suspect that this is why brass inlays are rare in old furniture, but brass appliqués are common because an appliqué can « float » on the surface it’s attached to. Only time will tell if your piece can survive. It might be that some of the issues with the finish cracking are caused more by the brass than the wood. I’ll be interested to see how you deal with this. Overall, a giant success. Well done. Cheers, Keith
That's some great insight thank you. The breadboard won't expand and contract lengthwise, so the brass will stay no problem, since it doesnt have to expand or contract with the main table. As long as they don't turn their house into a 400 degree oven. And the finish is pulling off since the adhesion to the table is greater than to the brass. I have thought of a future solution and I appreciate you watching!
Beautiful work. That being said, after a month long finishing process and it failed, don't think that's a agony I'd be willing to put myself through. BUT, I read through the comments and have to say I agree with the person who said you ought not be responsible for the results of the acclimation. Have to say I'd agree. Also saw some advice on how to avoid that issue. Considering all the work you put into that piece, I hope you take some of that advice. It seemed to make sense to me.
As soon as I saw this I thought "Oh-oh. He'll get problems with his clear coats come winter and humidity. Brass and wood are the areas of boat builders. For the most foolproof and lasting finishes, you should/should have consulted shipright and marine paint specialists. PS. Also, stopping brass tarnishing just ain't as easy as multiple coats of clear laquer/varnish/polyurethane ... no matter what type. Oven-baked ceramic clear powdercoat is the ONLY permanent solution for sealing brass. Should have passivated and sealed it completely BEFORE ASSEMBLY into the table because the proximity of your wood WILL tarnish it. You'll see within a year.
I hate overly complicated tables. Great work putting this all together but all the sanding and finishing just made me never want to do that on a build.
Suddenly I’m not feeling so bad about using Osmo for my walnut table project. If it gets damaged it’s easy to repair. I feel for you, man. It sucks about the damage with the customer. Like you said, stress makes you grow stronger. You just gained a sub.
I wonder… It’s technically 4 parts. 1- table 2- bread boards 3- brass inlays 4- dowels into BB/Table Maybe such high gloss items (as tremendously more difficult it would be) should all be finished and then put together. I don’t know. It’s a gorgeous piece of art and I hate to see this problem. Look forward to the repair though.
Beautiful table! Excellent craftsmanship. What is your thought on doing an epoxy pour instead of all of the finishing steps. Having done a few epoxy tables it seems like it would take less time- probably a more plastic look and epoxy tables scratch and craze over time- just curious on your thoughts. Thanks.
Great idea. I knew the thick epoxy wouldn't have withstood the joint between the breadboard and the table during expansion and contraction, and the cracking would be jagged and horrible. So I was hoping that the urethane would crack straighter and nicer. Not so lucky though. The urethane is a bit harder too.
Absolutely stunning piece of craftsmanship! Fantastic work. Also your description of stress=happiness was so on point and such a healthy way to view growth through challenges. Keep up the amazing work!
Have you ever tried polyester? Have used it over the years for high end super gloss finishes on conference tables. Did a breadboard 1 3/4” walnut island top, finished the ends separately. Didn’t want the line between but knew it was necessary.
I'm in the UK, and have used grain filler and Ac lacquer (conversion varnish. I think it's called in the USA.) to get a flawless finish. But like the guy said. There something called a ultra high solids polystyester basecoat which doesn't need the grain filling process. Having said that I don't think I'd be too keen on spraying the polyester without a proper spray booth as it's very smelly and toxic.
@@FortressFineWoodworks The first seller, the creator, of art is usually paid the least as time goes on. Hence the stories of poor artists doing what they love. Look at Wharton Esherich.
I would think the root issue is the fundamental difference in expansion/contraction rates and amounts between the metal and the wood. I hate to say it, but I think this will continue to happen as long as there is a single continuous layer of sealant that is on the metal AND the wood. It will separate again.
Keyboard warrior here, lol - if you’re able to separate the end pieces that are separated from the main table with the brass inlays, I think you may be able to finish them as separate pieces and then join everything together. Could be absolutely wrong, either way I’m looking forward to a follow up and your solution to the problem. Great work!
I'm no woodworker, but do you think finishing all segments separately, fully cure, then affixing the ends would've worked out? I'm not sure what the best method for the brass would've been in that scenario though.
Beautiful table and a great finish!!! I have to say, I was wondering about the thick finish you were applying and the bread board ends and what would happen if expansion/contraction had actually occurred. I am anxious to see the fix.
Love your work. Question. Where can I buy emblems like the fortress one you inserted into the table? I’m a home woodworker, but it would be a great touch for gifts.
@FortressFineWoodworks believe it or not, your cheeky sarcasm is what keeps me watching your videos. I've never done any woodworking, but I find even just listening to your vids quite enjoyable. The great finished products are a nice bonus. Keep it up!
Absolutely amazing. There's no hope in hell I'll ever make anything as meticulous and perfect as that table, but that doesn't take away from the pleasure of watching a master at work. Hope the fix around the brass goes well (assuming you haven't already done it and I just need to find the video for the answer!)
The entire Finnish process I was worried about the finish blistering and cracking on the brass when the table expands… I guess it didn’t take long! That will be a tough repair. Good luck!
Wow this is stunning. Just found your channel and watching this table series has blown me away for a channel your size. Especially the finishing process. This is a BTS/foureyes quality build! I was an instant subscriber after 1 video and look forward to seeing you and your channel grow! Also sorry to see what happened with the brass inlays. I’m just someone that watches RUclips videos but I wondered if peening the inlay to the top with brass nails and sanding it smooth so you can’t tell would have worked? Regardless, I look forward to seeing how you tackle it!
@@FortressFineWoodworks ah, I misunderstood what happened. Thanks for clarifying and responding! Now I’m even more invested in finding out how you plan to fix it. I can’t even imagine the planning and foresight that went into this but I’m sure it was frustrating when the client sent you that picture. Also I noticed from your last video a bit of an “Easter egg” with ‘it works if you work it’ lol it’s always nice see a fellow friend being successful and happy doing what they love. Best of luck to you, I look forward to watching your journey
Wow, thanks for the knowledge shared on this video!!! Please, if possible, try to do more content like this on polishing, because information on this level it's very hard to find with this quality!
Threaded inserts are generally still better for the ability to remove them without weakening them. They're plenty strong but it is interesting how strong directly into the wood CAN be, assuming you will never remove it.
Great work..what sealer did you use... i love my 2ks vinyl sealers and conv varn for something like this. Another process would be to pigment odies oil after sand process to 1500 ..oil it then buff off .its sooooooo nice especially on walnut
If you're expecting expansion and contraction between the breadboard end and the main body of the table, why are you putting finish coats over that brass area?
That's actually a great question. The brass has to be finished to prevent darkening and tarnishing. It also keeps everything at a flat level with eachother. Thanks for watching
@@FortressFineWoodworksi’m curious why those weren’t prefinished separately. I’m also curiously about the choice of spraying 15 layers of poly in place of just wiping on layers of shellac and leveling and buffing those. There was obviously some reasoning that went into that choice. I’m curious what it was because i also have a jumbo table to build (for myself) and i’m leaning toward shellac
The table is beautiful and the amount of work put in its creation is really impressive, however I have the feeling this gloss finish is going to be a pain in the you know what to keep that glossy. But like Harry Selfridge once said, the customers is always right, so if your client wanted that finish, so be it. BTW, for once that bloody damn algorithm suggested an interesting channel for a change, and I like your style, it's cool to see someone take his time to explain with some quite relaxing soundtrack and not jump cutting every 2,5 seconds with an overexcited music (I never say no to a good heavy metal song, or rock in general, but not on a woodworking video, it doesn't add up). Oh, and as a metric system user, it's nice to have you include measurements also in metric from time to time.
For as many comments on here about this being underpriced i can appriciate the 8500$ price tag you put on it, not because it wasnt worth more but because you realized maybe you still have some to learn about this kinda build and didnt over price it hopeing for the best, maybe durabuility in different climates and how the finish coats react.
I think the whole point of a breadboard is knowing it’s going to move. Try using adhesion promoter along the brass and throw some flex additive in your finish for every coat. 👌🏼 👌🏼
In case you haven't seen them, here's Part 1 - ruclips.net/video/xkarViFhLAo/видео.html and
Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/k6Kuo8N4V8U/видео.html
9:20 ur neighbor watching this:
- 😢
Can you please stop commentary and put original voice of the work that will be so satisfying and you will get more views after making these master pieces.
Regarding the material changes, and finish pulling off... On future projects, or even when correcting this beauty, take an exacto knife and cut through the finish at the brass. This will allow the table and metal to expand, contract, shrink, and swell independently of one another. Important added tip, feel free to waste 1 exacto blade per each pass through the finish. The blades are cheap, but can dull quickly. It'll save you a headache to just burn through a bunch of cheap blades than messing up the wood or the metal.
That table is gorgeous by the way, great job!!!
GREAT JOB DUDE!!
you could have EASILY asked for DOUBLE THE PRICE and it still wouldn't have cover all that labor!!! And I bet you these clients that got SUCH AN AMAZING DEAL on SUCH A BEAUTIFUL TABLE will be the PICKIEST and COMPLAINIEST about that fix you do.. and they will keep calling you every time their cat scratches it or something small... and they will EXPECT ALL THE FIXES FOR FREE because they "paid soooo much for it"
lol - or not! I have no idea who they are lol ... that's just how it usually goes tho.... you give someone a great deal and then they expect you to ALWAYS bend over backwards for them and continue giving them deals....
If that #30,000 table looks anywhere CLOSE to how perfect this beauty looks, then I TOTALLY UNDERSTAND that price!!! - Don't sell yourself short bro, you have MAD TALENT!! And TONS OF KNOWLEDGE!!! Don't be afraid to charge premium prices... but you NEED TO UNDERCUT the big names until you get some recognition and respect... you REALLY KILLED IT ON THIS ONE!!
- = { !!WOW!! } = -
After seeing the glut of silly "river" tables with live edges, it's cool to see a genuinely nice table. The brass accents look really good against the wood.
I agree! Thank you so much!
the table looks very good, but I'm concerned about the brass accents. If they went with the grain, maybe they wouldn't be a problem. But against the grain, they probably will be. I've only used metal, (brass also) rarely. And if I did, they were usually small in length. This would scare me.
@@paulkramer4176 What problem would there be with the brass accents? And why does the grain direction matter with them? I've never had a problem but also only used metal accents on small projects, nothing as large as a table.
When I trained as furniture maker the first thing my mentor taught me was, you cannot ever account or be responsible for the acclimation of the piece, you can explain to the new owner how it will react in different environments but you as the maker are not responsible for that acclimation. I live in Cornwall in the Uk and our houses are old, hundreds of years old, Some of them were just barns in another life and the humidity is high. If this had been a piece I was making it would have cost double the fee you charged.
That makes sense. I appreciate your insight!
I ahwvnt watched the whole video yet. But I also never take responsibility for seasonal movement. Everytime I make something I tell them where the problematic parts/joints are and what can happen. Our new built homes in Lithuania have to be A++ rating. It makes them extremely warm and dry during winter months. I've seen some homes lower than 40% relative humidity. There's no way I can make wooden furniture that can resist something like that. So I just tell them there's gonna be movement and possible defects. If they accept then I'm making it. If they can't accept it then I decline the order.
This might be one of the first tables that I've seen to where I truly think it was underpriced. You put so much effort into it and it shows.
Thank you for noticing. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment
I agree, the amount of expertise behind the effort warrants a price closer to the $30k you mentioned. For a corporate boardroom, thats an easy item to expense. Amazing dedication to quality and let's hope the winter challenges can be overcome.
I thought the same thing.
£8500 is an absolute steal for the work you’ve put into that
So are they customers or are they thieves? haha thanks!
at least 12000 IMO
Come to india. Bring your wood or buy it, we don't care. We do for 500 usd flat.
Bruh! I felt that "45 min neighbor talk" deep in my soul.
For real though!
SHUT UP!! seriously just SHUT UP already!!! I have things that I need to get done and I Do Not Care what stupid shit your sister has gotten up to /this time/!!!!! arglbrglfjdnsa;jf!!!@!
Wow! That table is a pure stunner. Thanks for taking us on the journey with you for this build.
Thanks a million! I appreciate you joining the journey
Ok mate, so we used Dulux clear for our brass work here in oz , and also used lemon juice and salt before doing the last polish on the brass prior to clean and clear coat with the dulux clear . Excellent adhesion and moves with the brass as it expands. Also with the table you need a scribe line between the timber and brass , its the only way to let them move without cracking the clear coat . Hope that helps 😊
Thanks for that. I was thinking that I will have to make a small v groove between the walnut and brass to keep that finish seperate. What does the lemon juice and salt do?
And thanks again
The lemon juice wets the glass rim, the salt sticks to the glass, the Margherita goes down the hatch.
Nice. Do you mean scribe in the clear? like after youve polished it or before polishing? all the way through or part way? like an expansion joint.
Oh btw a good tip for cutting tape to any size you want is to freeze it first. If you freeze the tape it makes it super easy to cut on a band saw. Just a little tip a custom car painter showed me and ive been doing ever since.
I will definitely have to try that some time!
I watch a reasonably large number of woodworking projects on RUclips and I think this is the first time I've said this: You definitely charged too little for that table! The quality of your work and the meticulous dedication to your craft elevates this to what I think is a work of art. I'm not a marketer or expert by any means, but anyone who's willing to pay $8500 for a table, will pay $10-12k. I'm not sure how many hours you spent on this or what the materials cost, but work of this caliber deserves much more than what they paid for this, especially if that cost includes delivery. I can throw a dart and hit a woodworker that can craft a $2-4k table, you're easily 3x better than that simply due to your adherence to process.
Don't sell yourself short. Perhaps the next stress/challenge for you will be accepting that you've graduated to another level.
I truly appreciate how nice that is. Your words are extremely kind and I'm grateful to have you as a viewer. Thanks for taking the time to say that.
I just came to the comments to say that. I watch woodworking videos as sort of therapy, but have made some observations about quality and pricing. This table is absolutely worth much more, but yet again, coming up with fair pricing is probably some sort of learning curve. I'm far from being a target group for buying such high-end furniture (I also live in other side of the world), but I think I can recognise when a piece is made with precision to detail and eye for visual pleasurability (not sure it's even a word, English obviously is not my first language :D). I've studied design and although my field has now changed I still find it extremely enjoyable to look meticulously made pieces. What many makers can't get right in my eyes are the proportions, but here everything was perfect. I think although getting the proportions right is somewhat learnable, one also has to have some natural talent.
Thank you, I appreciate all of your thoughts. Its nice to be able to make functional art and share it with people across the world!
Gah! That's heart breaking, absolutely stunning table. Next level work for sure. Shame on the clients for not putting it in a climate controlled room ;-)
That's actually not that crazy of a thought! With an art piece like that, it should be climate controlled! Thanks so much!
For sure! We recommend whole home humidifers all the time for customers with art or pieces of furniture they want to help keep long lasting. Although, the brass and wood will always move at different rates; no matter how much is controlled- brass will always win...
Also, beautiful table!
It's a work of art. There is nowhere one can do to buy something similar. It's a statement piece that will last a lifetime. Nice freaking work.
Thanks for the positivity! We appreciate that
Very nice job finishing the table. Much the same process that we use only with different products in the marine industry on super high end wood boats requiring a deep high gloss varnish finish. The process ends up applying around 12 coats over sealed wood. Absolutely beautiful craftsmanship.
Sounds like you're a wonderful craftsman yourself! Thanks!
I have always wondered why table makers invariably use plates to fix the base to the top and C channels for reinforcement the slab ~ good to finally see someone combining both
Thanks! I think it worked great too!
As one professional woodworker to another congratulations in performing a very nice build. I personally don't like using breadboard ends for the problems that always occur as you've seen and I know that many clients like them but I would always try to convince them of the problems that can occur if they want that look( especially when you have as many coats of finish as you've done) and that they aren't necessary when you have the stretchers properly applied underneath as you've done. And yes I think you definitely under priced ! The only other concern I might have is in the application of the brass sheet stock on the legs making sure to keep the mounting holes a bit larger than the screw shank to avoid any problems with wood movement that could occur on the legs themselves.
I appreciate all of your insight. I dislike breadboard ends as well for many reasons.
The screws will be able to take the stress of the wood movement of the legs. The screws that are furthest apart are 4 inches. So wood movement would be neglegable and unimportant. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
This has been an amazing journey - Thank you for bringing us along, your work is stunning
Thanks for being so kind. I appreciate you
I love the table, the color, and that beautiful finish. I love your attention to detail. I feel bad for you that the work is ruined by the breadboard end. I despise breadboard ends. The always move a little and I can't deal with the side of the table being different widths. I'll never do a breadboard again. I hope you find a good solution.
Yeah, I may have to do a veneered top or something. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful table! I love when folks share not only the good but the challenging situations they have to deal with. Thank you for sharing and being true about your projects!
It's great to hear such nice feedback. Thank you!
I love what you said about building character. That demonstrates your character. You are not just an artist, thoughtful, creative human being.
That's really nice. Thanks for taking the time out of your day to watch and comment!
Wow. Just wow. Your finishing process is next level. I love the brass with the dark/black walnut. You don't cease to amaze me. Thanks for showing the issue with the finish and I look forward to seeing how you fix it.
Thanks for always having such amazing things to say! We appreciate you and hope you are well!
Can't imagine having the patience to do all that finishing. Beautiful work!
Ya, it's part of the fun process. Thanks!
Hey , that table absolutely blew me away! The high-gloss finish was mesmerizing, and your skill throughout the build was seriously inspiring. You turned a pile of wood into a work of art.
But got to be honest, the news about the Finnish and varnish at the end had me holding my breath a bit. It's a good reminder that even the most flawless projects can have hiccups, and I appreciate you being upfront about it. That honesty speaks volumes about your character and commitment to quality.
Can't wait to see how you tackle the fix! I have no doubt you'll handle it with the same expert skill and problem-solving prowess you showed throughout the video. Keep us posted!
Those are very kind words. I appreciate you taking the time to say that, and thanks so much for watching. The fix will come eventually
I understand the pain of creating something beautiful that was severely underpriced. My partner and i made a concrete bartop that had whole oysters scattered throughout. It was the first time we used an aggregate like oyster and didn't know how much time and work would go into the countertop. In order to have a cross section of oyster to show in your finish, you need to grind and polish down a lot further than typical. Going forward, our price for a similar piece would be at least double per square foot.
That would be a lot of work in concrete. I salute to you!
I can only admire and be jealous of your skill and craftsmanship. This is just beautiful! Even though you lost on it as far as the labor you spent, but if taken that out of it, you did fantastic!
I appreciate that. Thank you
You created an absolute masterpiece . I am sorry you put so much of your heart and soul into your product to lose money in the end. Your customer should be grateful for he commissioned you to build this masterpiece. You are a stand up guy and your work proves it. Not many people like you are left on this earth. I hope you make it up going forward.
Those are amazing words thank you! I'm thankful that you are enjoying my videos and that's all that matters
Wow, that table is just stunning, what an absolutely beautiful looking finish, you have some amazing skills and patience. Me, I'm just a hobbyist woodworker in my spare time just wishing that I had your skills.
I can't believe that I'm saying this. Usually I watch table build videos and I say to myself that the buyer is happy to pay a lot (if not too much) for a commissioned table. But in your case I say that the buyer paid way too little. That's the first and probably only time I'm ever going to say that about a RUclips table build.
Anyway, keep up the good work. I'm sure you'll sort the pulled finished issue out for your client...
Thank you for such positive feedback. I can tell you appreciate the content, and thanks so much for watching!
The only thing I dont like about this table are the screws in the brass on the legs. I feel like if you used epoxy then you could have used full sheets of brass with no holes. The screws give it a mechanical feel that doesn't really go well with the design.
They have to be screws because the epoxy would delaminate when the wood expands and contracts. But that's totally reasonable
What a stunning table. Whoever the clients are, they're extremely lucky! Great job Fortress💪
Truly, thank you! And thanks for watching as well!
Cool to see two of the best in one comment section!
Thank you very much for showing me where I never want to go with my wood working! This was absolutely amazing and under priced. Well done good sir!
Haha you're welcome! Thanks for watching
WOW what a gorgeous table! Nicely done. One thing I dislike about brass is that it tarnishes and once you start the process of polishing you give yourself a life long job.
Thank you! And very true! That's why clear coating the brass is important
@@FortressFineWoodworks
Sorry mate, but simply "clear coating" just WON'T WORK for the long run. Ask any boatie. Clear powder coating is the ONLY way.
😮... 😮! Omg. That is beyond gorgeous. Ngl, all the wood in my house got a black gel stain last year, but none of it was a solid walnut table. It's funny, I UTTERLY ABHOR painting out beautiful wood furniture, but changing the stain didn't bother me. However I made certain it was all pieces that would be reasonably easy to refinish at some point. There's something about black stained wood with a hit of brass that screams luxury. But nothing 'on trend' stays forever... Walnut and brass though will never not scream the same thing.
I definitely agree with all of that. I think we all need to trust our own preferences more than trends and modern design. Thanks for watching!
I audibly gasped when that table almost hit the ground…phew
Well don't fall out of your seat!.... I gasped too
This is really incredible work! The detail with the sanding and finish is next level. Some of the other techniques are also impressive. My woodworking is basic and I’ll never be able to do stuff like this but I can appreciate the skill and enjoy watching videos like this
Thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoyed it, even if you're just getting started.
Keyboard warrior here 🙂
The only fix I see is to apply a larger strip of brass.
1. Apply heat (air gun?) on the polished surface along the strip and remove it with brutal force. The softened surface should prevents from cracks.
2. Apply again heat and carve a (very) deeper and wider slot with a portable milling tool
3. Fill the slot with a generous amount polyurethane transparent resin
4. Push/fit the new strip until it is flush with the surface and the resin squishes out from the borders of the table.
Make a test before.
The problem is the adhesion of the finish to the brass. There needs to be a separation between the finish on the table, and the brass on the breadboard end. Problem solved. Thanks for watching!
This is phenomenal, I feel for you with the cracking problem, the detail you put into this for such a small price in insane, most other RUclips creators just slap a coat of Rubio on and send if off for two times the price, these guys have no idea how to finish a table to perfection like you 👍👍
I appreciate that. I wish it was that easy
A wonderful piece of art. I always thought about full wood with metal inlays but it's not easy to handle the different shrinking characteristics of both materials.
Well, metal shrinks and expands based on temperature. And a house commonly stays the same general temperature year around. So the only variable to really consider is making sure wood movement can occur. Thanks for watching!
@@FortressFineWoodworks your right. Metal shrinking depend as you said on temperature. Wood also on moisture. So you have (at least here in Germany) a big difference between summer and winter. So my dining table is about 5mm taller in summer. But nevertheless, to your project. Maybe its better to apply your finish only on the wooden part. Or separately. Or use a shellac polish. So you don't build up material. Mmmh its a wonderful but very challenging project. But its only brainstorming. I would do some test pieces and would stress them with cold and warm conditions.
That's some good input. Thank you!
Hi 👋, F F Ww. Great looking 👀 job, a lot of work, shame about the problem at the end, hopefully you can fix it relatively easy, over the many years, nearly 50, I’ve had a few problems similar to you, and probably likewise for other, when working by yourself, you try to do things and end up, causing yourself problems, two jobs come to mind one be in a large dining room table that I had to re-polish in somebody’s house, unbeknown to me, there was a spider like in, in one of the two chandeliers, my finish coat got ruined. It decided to come down onto the tabletop, and sadly the spider came to a dramatic end, but left its body and legs in the lacquer., nearly a weeks work, all ruined in probably a few minutes, it took me two days to flatten back the finished coat to apply another two or three coats, and you won’t believe it, I made a very large rosewood decorative bar for a display, for a company that made very high end, stainless steel and bronze components for yachts and ships, the week I started pushing it purposely gone round with an air gun to blow down all, cobwebs, dust, et cetera, and that is right three days before the delivery, I had another spider come from somewhere, this time I had to work all day all night and all day or the next day to try and I’m refinish the surface. Luckily I got it done,
And yes, turning a table top or doors over by yourself , can cause problems, I’ve got quite a few plastic trestles, I sent them out to put a very large 2 1/2 thick door onto that I have made, and in the process of fitting all the hardware, I had to turn the door over, one of the plastic trestles decided to collapse, it all happened in slow motion,, I did put a slight dent into one side, but managed to resurface the edge, never used, plastic trestles anymore,
I/we look forward to seeing the outcome of the problem with the finish on the table, I hope you can get it resolved without having to bring it back to the workshop, good luck for the future, look forward to seeing some more amazing products,
Phil from the moulin France.
Hi Phil from Moulin! Sounds like you need some spider traps! Those dang things! I'm sorry to hear your projects nearly got ruined by bugs! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Phil, I think anyone in the crafts who has years behind them, has experienced the panic, the terror of last minute problems. And no, other than learning different ways to try to be truthful with the client, I don't think there was anything to be gained from those situations. Well, they are good for story telling now that my body retired me from the work.
Brass and dark wood, such an elegant look that somehow manages to keep that rustic feel. You knocked it out of the park! Hope the solution with the finish isn't too tough on you
Thank you! There's always a solution and the customers are extremely happy even as it sits
I have an anxiety attack just thinking about what our kids and dog would do to such a finish lol. Amazing piece!
They would take great care of it and not chew on any of it... right?
Beautiful table. Sorry about the coating pulling away like that. It happens. I did paint and body work for years and let me say if something can go wrong, it will. Or at least it seems that way. You mentioned burning through the top coat and exposing the under coat. That happens when you're buffing out a paint finish on a car too. I enjoyed your video and picked up some pointers, since I'm thinking I'll try doing some of that work myself. I think I'll start with something small, like a cutting board. Small mistakes are cheaper than big ones. Nice work you're doing.
That's a smart idea. A cutting board is way more approachable than a table!
Dont get me wrong its a nice table, but dang for only $8500 you totally under priced that. Way to much risk in being responsible with damaging it throughout the project and then on top of that being responsible for how it expands months later. Definitely not worth it.
You're preaching to the choir. I know. It wasn't worth it. Now we can move on. Thanks for watching!
I hope at least by making these wonderful videos about it, there might be a bit extra on the side to cover any losses.
$8500 wouldn’t even cover the finishing 😖
Oh really...why dont you order one...with some better price 😂
Lol.... Underpriced, some people are disconnected from reality...
That is an amazing look and it's a real shame about the brass inlay pulling off the finish due to contraction. I'm trying to think what a good solution would've been.
Also, if there's going to be a very dark stain, I wonder how visibly different it would've been if you'd used maple/poplar/oak or one of the more common species with the same finishing process (besides the obvious wood grain differences).
Honestly, any other wood would have looked great, but the customer specifically wanted a walnut table, and for it to be nearly black. So they got what they wanted
@@FortressFineWoodworks Ah, one of those "customer is not always right but they get what they pay for" 😂
Years ago, I built 15 walnut tables for a restaurant that were pretty much painted black. It made me sick, until said restaurant handed me a check that paid for my new truck.
I don’t understand how somebody paid almost $10,000 for a table can’t keep their house at a pretty constant temperature…. I have my apartment set at 73° summer winter
very true. They would have to have humidity control to keep it at 50% year around. Which is possible
ABSOLUTELY STUNNING! Gonna look into your products when we move soon and plan on getting new dining room table
That would be great! Looking forward to hearing from you!
So glad the algorithm Gods provided this channel to me. I'm so conflicted after watching this build though. In a machine design engineer role by day regularly living in a world of very tight tolerance, and a amateur hobby woodworker by weekend, wood has always been beautiful to me because it's not perfect. I can be very happy hiding behind "it's close enough". It caries the "character" also that comes from something that is one of a kind and once alive, as opposed to "dead" machined or precisely ground tool steels. Trying to achieve the perfection you have is incredible, but seems in some way disrespectful - trying to fight against mother nature. I know how this sounds, but I'm oddly satisfied the finish failed around the inlay.
Thank you for your honesty. I work with wood. Sometimes in a perfectionistic way, and sometimes in a rough and rugged way.
Bro, it’s beautiful. So sorry about the contractions and new troubleshooting.
I appreciate that! I will find a solution
Geez I wonder how you can fix that, I feel like the brass inlays almost need to be floating separately from the finish. Good luck keep us posted. P.S. I’m a Autobody painter
Thanks for sharing, beautiful table, but remember, average guy watching, do not be intimidated by professionals with polished camera shots, keep enjoying your amateur's workshop. "Anything worth doing is worth doing badly." -G.K. Chesterton
I think it's important to be inspired and inspire others
So how many coats total on the top? Wow
Great question! 11 coats of sealer and 2 coats of topcoat. So 13. And naturally this would be too thick for this finish, but with all the sanding in between, it reduces the final mil thickness
@@FortressFineWoodworks man so impressive. Didn’t imagine it would take so many. And also shame about the finish pulling apart. Wood is gonna do what it wants. Can’t anticipate every possible movement. But you sure tried. Put a lot of thought into that.
magnificent! I would however recommend trying out flooring finishes for projects like this. you can do very thick coats with flooring finishes. I recommend two in particular: bona traffic hd and bergerseidle greenstar. the greenstar has an 18 hour open window once mixed with the hardener. also greenstar is foodsafe.
also check out greenstar shpachtel gel to fill the grain. I don't have much experience with it. I have filled many floors by mixing filler with sawdust, but the method you used might have been a little too heavy.
much respect, absolutely stunning result!
I will look into that, thanks for the ideas
one more thing i forgot to tell you about flooring finishes, the sealers are unique in that they allow for wood movement without the finish breaking apart because floors move so much. There is one in particular that is extra flexy, called flex sealer/flex primer by bergerseidle.
I don't know how well that would work with brass, also I don't know if you'll be able to apply it over certain stains, just food for thought.
floor finishing companies are in very strong competition because it's a big market... your average floor refinisher uses many buckets of finish a month and even more for gym floor guys
@@FortressFineWoodworks
WHAT.. you Stained that beautiful walnut with black ... I cant watch anymore...
Walnut turns piss yellow if it's left instained. At least this way it won't fade
I am total amateur, but came up one thought. Humidity is what cause wood "playing", right? so to prevent that, wood have to be sealed from all sides. Maybe this could have help, when before assembling those horizontal top table brass sheets, you would spraysealed these surfaces inside tabel?
Thanks for your thoughts. The table will expand and contract no matter how well its sealed.
I suppose the boards and the brass inlays should have very tight fit but be covered with their finishing compounds separately. You remove the brass kept in place by some temporary solution, cover the grooves, finish the board, finish the brass and glue it back in. The fit of the brass will be even tighter than it was because of the coating on it. And maybe it will be reasonable to cool the top and freeze the brass inlays prior to the assembly for them to shrink and fit easier.
This all sounds great from a machinists standpoint, but the problem is much more simple.
Inlay another piece of brass where its split, great job! you're a true craftsman!
Thanks for the idea. I believe I have a good solution for the future.
Nice command of the tools, materials, and processes. Thank you for taking the time to share. As a neophyte woodworker, I have nothing to contribute about your woodworking. However, I do have something to suggest about the topic of Being that you cross into during the last few minutes. Happiness isn't complex (stress=happiness in its own farfetched way), rather, happiness is nothing more (or less) a function of acceptance, period, hard stop.
So happiness isnʼt a hard thing to obtain as you suggest as it just shows up naturally and effortlessly when you accept what is, no matter what is.
Now acceptance is another story 😉.
Thats some deep stuff. I'd say, acceptance is a rather complex and challenging thing to have. And since it is so, that would make happiness a challenge for me as a person. I think both things can be true at the same time, and I agree with you 100%.
Paradoxically, the simpler a thing is the more difficult to obtain. This is true for abstractions meaning the simplest abstraction and that is the idea of nothing is the most difficult to comprehend. As you demoed, a simple flat smooth clear finish really takes something!
I’ve complexified simplicity for a long time as there was a very important payoff for me. Doing it that way (complexifying things) allowed me a sense of control to guide the speed and movement of conversations. Only you can say what complexity is for you if you follow my drift.
It appears deep (seeing it through the filter of complexity) and looking back it appears ridiculously simple. Someone said “context is decisive.” Shifting one’s context is doable and requires an unusual degree of openness and commitment.
Circling back, accept and be happy with a complex outlook! If you can apply 10 coats of finish to a piece of wood after sanding the hell out of it then you have the wherewithal to achieve anything! Thank you for being open to engage.
I appreciate your deep thoughts.
That might work for you, but I say BS. There is way too much ugly bad terrible wrong bent that we all can benefit from by learning to find a level of acceptance (better than going nuts), but in those rare occasions when I have been able to truly do that, it didn't, nor would I want to be happy in those times.
@@shopshop144Thanks for speaking up. I agree with you. Acceptance doesn't mean being happy all the time. Some things are really sad like when people die. What’s appropriate then is to be sad if you are sad. I'm not proposing some standard for how people should feel. Without going into a long thing the idea is captured in the saying “pain is inevitable, suffering is optional.” My intention is to communicate that we have more say in the matter than is usually recognized.
Very nice work. It feel's like you have automotive painting experience as I know some people that have done custom automotive work follow many of the same processes.
I used automotive finishes on several guitars that I built. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
That was a crazy amout of work on one single table. Beautiful!
Thanks so much!
Try using steel wool to brush brass, or alternatively a sctochbright scuff pad, tends to do the job nicely without potentially losing too much material.
Thanks for the tips!
Having been in this business a long time, I can tell you that making pieces for clients in other parts of the country is hard. Especially when you have a metal/ wood interface of any size. New people always want to spend half their life getting that seam dialed in and spotless, then are shocked when they get the call from the annoyed client (please reference the look on your face @ 18:39 lol). I always "celebrate the contrast" by placing a design element at the transition so I know 100% where that failure will happen. Tiny grooves, shadow lines, etc. all do the job nicely. If they MUST have the flush mating surface then I have the client sign a design waiver that states what will happen and what my company WILL NOT DO to "fix" it. We've all been in your shoes- just do your best to make it right and learn from it.
Also, always build up coats of high gloss and if the client calls for satin/matte, make the last two coats satin- your depth will show through versus being muddy. Beautiful work, good luck.
I definitely agree with all of that. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Let me save you some headache... use mohawk grain filler, sher-wood lacquer sealer and mohawk piano lacquer x 5 coats sealer x15 to 20 coats piano lacquer. Can be done in one day then sand and polish or hand rub. "The 15-20 coats piano lacquer can/ needs to be done in 1 day" You spray that piano lacquer 1 job and you will understand.
That's how we finish and refinish pianos.
That's good to know thanks. I just don't know if a 1k lacquer is durable enough for a table
@FortressFineWoodworks it's plenty durable we have done many tables although here people like the hand rub look over polish. This is how it's been done for people in the know for decades.
Also the 15 to 20 coats of piano lacquer all cross link if sprayed in 1 day which is easy too do. Nothing to burn through on the flats if your polishing as it will be solid. Hella more forgiving than emron to repair if you do burn through the edges.
Wow. That is some next level craftsmanship. Beautiful.
Thank you very much!
very honest to show the problem at the end.
i hope you will find a solution to fix it!
great looking table!
I hope so too! Thank you!
Hi,
Awesome build and the finish is truly superb. But as someone who has worked with brass, I see a few places where you can improve. First, a band saw cuts brass just fine, especially if you buy a metal cutting blade, and it’s much less dangerous than using a table saw. The sight of those brass chips flying about gave me the willies. Yes, you should always wear gloves to avoid finger prints, but cleaning the surface with mild acid can be very effective. Also Brasso actually has its uses, but you might not like the finish it leaves. One issue with brass is that it expands in heat and contracts in cold and it would be something of a miracle if it was at the same rate and time as the wood expanding and contracting with humidity. I suspect that this is why brass inlays are rare in old furniture, but brass appliqués are common because an appliqué can « float » on the surface it’s attached to. Only time will tell if your piece can survive. It might be that some of the issues with the finish cracking are caused more by the brass than the wood. I’ll be interested to see how you deal with this.
Overall, a giant success. Well done.
Cheers,
Keith
That's some great insight thank you. The breadboard won't expand and contract lengthwise, so the brass will stay no problem, since it doesnt have to expand or contract with the main table. As long as they don't turn their house into a 400 degree oven.
And the finish is pulling off since the adhesion to the table is greater than to the brass. I have thought of a future solution and I appreciate you watching!
Beautiful work. That being said, after a month long finishing process and it failed, don't think that's a agony I'd be willing to put myself through. BUT, I read through the comments and have to say I agree with the person who said you ought not be responsible for the results of the acclimation. Have to say I'd agree. Also saw some advice on how to avoid that issue. Considering all the work you put into that piece, I hope you take some of that advice. It seemed to make sense to me.
I'm actually working on fixing it right now so stay tuned! Thanks
As soon as I saw this I thought "Oh-oh. He'll get problems with his clear coats come winter and humidity. Brass and wood are the areas of boat builders. For the most foolproof and lasting finishes, you should/should have consulted shipright and marine paint specialists.
PS. Also, stopping brass tarnishing just ain't as easy as multiple coats of clear laquer/varnish/polyurethane ... no matter what type. Oven-baked ceramic clear powdercoat is the ONLY permanent solution for sealing brass. Should have passivated and sealed it completely BEFORE ASSEMBLY into the table because the proximity of your wood WILL tarnish it. You'll see within a year.
That's interesting to know. I have other projects with brass inlays and there's no tarnishing.
Maybe you live in a more humid environment
Brass a non ferrous metal, hard for a coating to stick
I hate overly complicated tables. Great work putting this all together but all the sanding and finishing just made me never want to do that on a build.
It's not too bad. Just pop on some headphones and jam to hours and hours....and hours of music!
imo inserts feel more luxury then just the wood. I like them
Yeah I do too. Thanks!
All nuggets of wisdom are immediately preceded by error. Great looking table.
It's important to show everything. Thanks!
Suddenly I’m not feeling so bad about using Osmo for my walnut table project. If it gets damaged it’s easy to repair.
I feel for you, man. It sucks about the damage with the customer. Like you said, stress makes you grow stronger.
You just gained a sub.
Yeah, a hardwax oil has its own benefits.
Thanks for the sub!!!!
I wonder…
It’s technically 4 parts.
1- table
2- bread boards
3- brass inlays
4- dowels into BB/Table
Maybe such high gloss items (as tremendously more difficult it would be) should all be finished and then put together.
I don’t know. It’s a gorgeous piece of art and I hate to see this problem.
Look forward to the repair though.
Yeah I guess it could've been 4 parts if I wanted to agonize the audience! Thanks for watching and enjoying, the repair video will come later!
Beautiful table! Excellent craftsmanship. What is your thought on doing an epoxy pour instead of all of the finishing steps. Having done a few epoxy tables it seems like it would take less time- probably a more plastic look and epoxy tables scratch and craze over time- just curious on your thoughts. Thanks.
Great idea. I knew the thick epoxy wouldn't have withstood the joint between the breadboard and the table during expansion and contraction, and the cracking would be jagged and horrible. So I was hoping that the urethane would crack straighter and nicer. Not so lucky though. The urethane is a bit harder too.
Absolutely stunning piece of craftsmanship! Fantastic work. Also your description of stress=happiness was so on point and such a healthy way to view growth through challenges. Keep up the amazing work!
I truly appreciate that. I'm glad that made sense
Have you ever tried polyester? Have used it over the years for high end super gloss finishes on conference tables. Did a breadboard 1 3/4” walnut island top, finished the ends separately. Didn’t want the line between but knew it was necessary.
I will be trying a polyester finish soon. Great idea! Thanks
I'm in the UK, and have used grain filler and Ac lacquer (conversion varnish. I think it's called in the USA.) to get a flawless finish.
But like the guy said. There something called a ultra high solids polystyester basecoat which doesn't need the grain filling process.
Having said that I don't think I'd be too keen on spraying the polyester without a proper spray booth as it's very smelly and toxic.
The work on the finish would make me give up the whole thing
Don't give up!
My new business model, have this guy build all he can for me then sell it for what it's REALLY worth!
Hey! You'll make more money than I do!
@@FortressFineWoodworks The first seller, the creator, of art is usually paid the least as time goes on. Hence the stories of poor artists doing what they love. Look at Wharton Esherich.
I would think the root issue is the fundamental difference in expansion/contraction rates and amounts between the metal and the wood. I hate to say it, but I think this will continue to happen as long as there is a single continuous layer of sealant that is on the metal AND the wood. It will separate again.
Yeah, I'm going to add a separation in that joint so it doesn't rub past eachother. Keeping each side seperate from the other
gorgeous build. love the look and the finish you gave it. experimentation is the foundation towards greater things! keep pushing!
Thank you! I appreciate you watching!
Keyboard warrior here, lol - if you’re able to separate the end pieces that are separated from the main table with the brass inlays, I think you may be able to finish them as separate pieces and then join everything together. Could be absolutely wrong, either way I’m looking forward to a follow up and your solution to the problem. Great work!
That would probably work pretty well. I just don't know how I would get the breadboards back off. They are glued in the middle.
I'm no woodworker, but do you think finishing all segments separately, fully cure, then affixing the ends would've worked out? I'm not sure what the best method for the brass would've been in that scenario though.
Yes it would work, but chances are there would be variations in how level the two pieces are relative to eachother.
Ein wirklich edler Schreibtisch. Und was für Arbeit ihr hattet. Respekt. Bin begeistert.
Thank you so much!
The table turned out beautiful. Amazing work
Thanks so much for watching!
I love woodworking, but there no way I wanna put that much effort into a finish 😮
Fair enough! Thanks for watching!
@@FortressFineWoodworks super impressive though. Amazing work.
so awesome! thanks for putting in all the time to share this
Glad you enjoyed it!
Beautiful table and a great finish!!! I have to say, I was wondering about the thick finish you were applying and the bread board ends and what would happen if expansion/contraction had actually occurred. I am anxious to see the fix.
I'm anxious too. It may be a few months before we get the table back. Thanks for watching!
Pressure creates diamonds > stress equals happiness. Beautiful work 👏👏👏👏😎👍
Heck yah! Thanks for watching!
Love your work. Question. Where can I buy emblems like the fortress one you inserted into the table? I’m a home woodworker, but it would be a great touch for gifts.
I got them from Coinsforanything.com
something you may want to try out is polishing the raw wood. At 1000 grit a good hardwood ca be pretty darn reflective all on its own.
I actually have done this with a violin fingerboard, and guitar fretboard! Great idea!
@@FortressFineWoodworks Nice I would love too see how those turned out.
@FortressFineWoodworks believe it or not, your cheeky sarcasm is what keeps me watching your videos. I've never done any woodworking, but I find even just listening to your vids quite enjoyable. The great finished products are a nice bonus. Keep it up!
Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. The sarcasm shall continue.
Absolutely amazing. There's no hope in hell I'll ever make anything as meticulous and perfect as that table, but that doesn't take away from the pleasure of watching a master at work. Hope the fix around the brass goes well (assuming you haven't already done it and I just need to find the video for the answer!)
Thanks so much! I haven't done the fix yet
The entire Finnish process I was worried about the finish blistering and cracking on the brass when the table expands… I guess it didn’t take long! That will be a tough repair. Good luck!
Well why didn't you tell me? Just kidding. I appreciate it, and the solution will come
Wow this is stunning. Just found your channel and watching this table series has blown me away for a channel your size. Especially the finishing process. This is a BTS/foureyes quality build! I was an instant subscriber after 1 video and look forward to seeing you and your channel grow!
Also sorry to see what happened with the brass inlays. I’m just someone that watches RUclips videos but I wondered if peening the inlay to the top with brass nails and sanding it smooth so you can’t tell would have worked? Regardless, I look forward to seeing how you tackle it!
I appreciate that. Thanks for the kind comment.
It's not a problem with the brass inlay, it's that the finish didn't have good adhesion to it
@@FortressFineWoodworks ah, I misunderstood what happened. Thanks for clarifying and responding! Now I’m even more invested in finding out how you plan to fix it.
I can’t even imagine the planning and foresight that went into this but I’m sure it was frustrating when the client sent you that picture.
Also I noticed from your last video a bit of an “Easter egg” with ‘it works if you work it’ lol it’s always nice see a fellow friend being successful and happy doing what they love. Best of luck to you, I look forward to watching your journey
That's awesome that you noticed that Easter egg! Thanks again for watching and I appreciate you!
Wow, thanks for the knowledge shared on this video!!! Please, if possible, try to do more content like this on polishing, because information on this level it's very hard to find with this quality!
That's great to know! Thanks for watching!
Threaded inserts are generally still better for the ability to remove them without weakening them. They're plenty strong but it is interesting how strong directly into the wood CAN be, assuming you will never remove it.
Yeah, I'll have to try tapping into the wood at some point!
Great work..what sealer did you use... i love my 2ks vinyl sealers and conv varn for something like this. Another process would be to pigment odies oil after sand process to 1500 ..oil it then buff off .its sooooooo nice especially on walnut
Thank you! I used imron polyurethane sealer. It's high build.
What happens to the finish on both side of the brass strip when wood moves? Will it crack?
If you finish the video you'll find your answer! Thanks for watching!
Incredible over engineering every step of the way. I wish I had your follow through. What paint system/setup are you using here?
Thank you! I'm using an earlex turbine with an atomizer spray gun. The finish is stated in the video I believe
If you're expecting expansion and contraction between the breadboard end and the main body of the table, why are you putting finish coats over that brass area?
Ah. I just finished the video. Sorry, man, that's rough. I love that table though, it's super gorgeous.
That's actually a great question. The brass has to be finished to prevent darkening and tarnishing. It also keeps everything at a flat level with eachother. Thanks for watching
@@FortressFineWoodworksi’m curious why those weren’t prefinished separately. I’m also curiously about the choice of spraying 15 layers of poly in place of just wiping on layers of shellac and leveling and buffing those. There was obviously some reasoning that went into that choice. I’m curious what it was because i also have a jumbo table to build (for myself) and i’m leaning toward shellac
@@jeffreytgilbert Elsewhere in the comments he says that a shellac finish isn't hard enough, or something to that affect.
The table is beautiful and the amount of work put in its creation is really impressive, however I have the feeling this gloss finish is going to be a pain in the you know what to keep that glossy. But like Harry Selfridge once said, the customers is always right, so if your client wanted that finish, so be it.
BTW, for once that bloody damn algorithm suggested an interesting channel for a change, and I like your style, it's cool to see someone take his time to explain with some quite relaxing soundtrack and not jump cutting every 2,5 seconds with an overexcited music (I never say no to a good heavy metal song, or rock in general, but not on a woodworking video, it doesn't add up). Oh, and as a metric system user, it's nice to have you include measurements also in metric from time to time.
Thank you for that. I'm glad you like my content and there's more to come! Thanks for watching!
For as many comments on here about this being underpriced i can appriciate the 8500$ price tag you put on it, not because it wasnt worth more but because you realized maybe you still have some to learn about this kinda build and didnt over price it hopeing for the best, maybe durabuility in different climates and how the finish coats react.
I appreciate that. The real reason I underpriced it was to make sure I got the job, knowing it would be a good video. And luckily it was
That bandsaw usage when you were doing the ebony dowels have me wincing, I saw someone lose a finger doing that exact thing.
Maybe if I was closing my eyes and eating a hamburger with the other hand. 😉
I think the whole point of a breadboard is knowing it’s going to move. Try using adhesion promoter along the brass and throw some flex additive in your finish for every coat. 👌🏼 👌🏼
There's nothing that can flex like that. I will have to seperate the two sides