Awesome! Congratulations! on getting your engine to run. Love the overhead camshaft and that fire shooting out of the exhaust yea, it's making some power! Too bad about the timing chain tensioner, she would have kept running. Machine more components on your lathe, use some 12L14 Steel, it's easy to machine and pretty tough too. Perfect for model engines.
That’s good to know! I have a video that I’m posting later tonight, it’s kinda a part 1, but enough stuff happens for it to be a video in itself. I have an aluminum piston that I machined and homemade rings, and it ran really good! Keep an eye out, I will be uploading the video soon!
@@throwawaypt2throwawaypt2-xp8nx well yes but me personally dont like him beacuse he throws his tools and parts but looking at the 2 stroke video id say he improved
@@flixd2513 you saying that him throwing his tools has nothing to do with "dedication" as you mention in this comment. Camden might have the same amount of dedication if not more, but you just don't like his style
In the next video I’m planning on making a homemade cast iron piston and more, and then I will probably add a 3-D printed water cooling jacket, as the water should help keep the plastic cold enough not to melt. Thank you for watching!!!
@@ProjectLMZ Keep it simple and just remake a cylinder with big cooling fins and as said before, direct a fan at it. No water to deal with or leaks. No water pump ether . Much cheaper as well. Porsche, VW, and Tatra were on to something but emissions regulations ended air cooled vehicles.
You should make it so the exhaust has a hole on its side so you could put a screw through it. By pushing it more or less in the exhaust you can increase or decrease the back pressure, which is known for making engines like these run way better.
@@ProjectLMZ Maybe..? I saw the little screw on my lawn mower's exhaust, it has the screw set to the least back pressure, AKA its almost unscrewed from the hole. The mower has a 4 stroke engine.
Awsome work, seeing this thing run better and better with each video kinda makes you forget how much of a pain it was tryna get it to start in the first place, youve come a long way and sponsorship shows that great, its awsome to see what looks to be your little brother getting in the action, "its a bit hot bud, better let it cool down" 😂
16:06 😂 fuel / spark ✔️💥 Compression 🚫. Your videos are one of a few that I have to watch immediately. Seeing you get this running, the part failures/ upgrades to make it a little better each time👍. Watching and waiting (patiently) for the eventual water cooling video.
I think water cooling will be in the next video! I’m planing on making a homemade cast iron piston and more, also when it fired while I was turning it by hand, it scared the crap out of me!! I was not expecting a to fire with zero compression!! Thank you for watching!!
Excellent casting !👌 Guessing that compression isn't 800 PSI, valves should be fully closed when the piston is Top Dead center anyway. Running better with the new cam now. The spark jumping over to head pieces or screws is a common problem with miniature model engines. That's why you see a lot of them with the plug coming in the head at an angle or even on the side of the head.
The process of engineering is wonderful. Eventually you'll end up with a fully reliable fully lubricated engine, and I'd love to see it happen however long it takes.
I literally just made a cast aluminum piston! It has a lot of pitting on the sides from me forgetting to de-gas the aluminum, but I think if anything it will just hold more oil. Thank you for watching!
Use some of that 2000F ceramic paint used for pits and coat the top of the piston to keep the heat from melting the piston as fast...I say 5 or more coats and test to see if it helps the longevity of the piston...very cool that it actually ran at all!
I just made a cast aluminum piston for the engine, although there is a lot of pitting on the sides and top from the casting, like a lot, but there all small, less than 1mm, so if anything I think it will just hold more oil. But I will fine out, next is I need to make the connecting rod, and then I will have all metal parts in the combustion chamber! Thank you for watching!
In the next video, I’m going to make more metal parts, like the piston and connecting Rod, so in the future I definitely want to try hooking it up to my bike!
@@ProjectLMZthat would be amazing! I’d also love to see some efficiency benchmarks, like powering an alternator and measuring how much power it can produce with a specific amount of fuel. Perhaps that data could help with future optimisation
Absolutely awesome, this is really rapid prototyping at it's best and all that effort super paid off. Also, before the water cooling, what about splash oil cooling? Like on the bottom on the piston, like early era automobile engines with just a tiny stick on the big end of the conrod dipping into the sump?
Thank you! I have oil in the case up to the rod, but I think I will do water cooling as well. Also, a future project might be coming, as I just went to BIR nationals and got a con rod, cylinder sleeve, wrist pin, rings, and bearings from a top alcohol funny car, and the cylinder diameter is over 4 inches!!
You could print a ring with (say 5) blades at a 45-degree angle, make it just big enough to slip over your flywheel for a cooling fan to keep the head temp down. You could turn up an aluminum piston on your lathe too.🤔
That’s what I’m thinking about doing, just hasn’t been necessary completely yet. I am just about to test the engine after rebuilding it with an aluminum piston!
i think it sounds a bit too rich at idle, get a smaller pilot jet maybe. idk what carb that is but if the mixture screw is on the fuel side then it probably has a pilot jet thats too big considering u said it likes it all the way in. you should also use mold silicone for the boot or just get a boot online
It is definitely running very rich, it has a total run time of like 10 minutes and the exhaust valve and exhaust are completely covered in a black film, I actually think I need to back out the screw, it dropped the idle when I did, but I think that’s just because it was getting less fuel. I will definitely have to try some more things!!
Since you have a lathe, it would be really cool to see something completely homemade even if it’s metal. There’s a guy on yt who made a mini engine that was like 3cc he made the camshaft on a lathe and I think you can do the same thing if you build the jig. It would be really cool to see it. Edit: I commented this before I saw you cast the cam lol
@@ProjectLMZ that would be amazing. If you can somehow go to entirety cast that would still be epic. Just shows how easy an engine can be made. I’ve wanted to take in this project myself but I live in an apartment and I’m a college student so I don’t have the space or the budget. But one day I will
I use tinkerCAD, but I’m switching over to onshape, but there’s really no plans, as the metal parts are not like the 3d model, they’re different by quite a bit. Like my 3d model of the head is 28mm tall, and the actual head is 38mm tall. Thank you for watching!
@@ProjectLMZ Absolutely! I use Onshape for a lot of my projects and it's pretty good for what it is. You've given me quite a bit of inspiration for attempting something like this, maybe at a smaller scale though. 180cc seems HUGE! Any particular reason you went with something so large?
@@dogechannel9933 once I get it running reliably I want to put it on something, my next engine is going to be a 360 cc in line 2, two of my current engines put together, reason for an in-line two is because it will be easier to make the crank case than a V twin!
@@ProjectLMZ Yeah I totally get that. If I were to make a multi cylinder it would either be a boxer style engine, or an inline just for ease of use. I can't wait to see your journey through this!
@@dogechannel9933 I think it would be pretty cool to make an inline 2! If I get monetized I will probably start working on it soon!! I’m close to being monetized!
I am impressed with how much the engine has improved and how well-ish it's running I am not sure but I think making the compression ratio higher would allow you to run leaner AF ratio which would make the carbon less of a problem Or maybe the carburetor needs some tuning, if you take the top apart there is a needle with an E clip which basically sets the AF ratio Having such a short intake doesn't let the fuel evaporate and mix very well which means you'd need more fuel to keep the engine running but that's not exactly a priority right now as the engine doesn't run forever Speaking of running longer, the cast iron piston, while more durable than cast aluminium, is also 3 times the weight and compared to the more hollow plastic one it'll be at least 7 or 8 time heavier I would say tho probably less... anyways make sure the connecting rod can take it and won't just snap at the 1200 rpm idle (by ear it's around 1100-1300 rpm) I very much can't wait for the next part
I was thinking about using cast-iron because the aluminum that I have is from pop cans, which isn’t exactly a high-quality aluminum, but we went to NHRA nationals this weekend at BIR, and I got a top fuel dragster piston that was beat up, so I’m going to melt down that piston and use it to cast a cast aluminum piston, and then I’m going to use the same material to make a cast aluminum connecting rod!
Oh I wouldn't melt that down I'd have it on a shelf somewhere for decor but you do you. I don't exactly remember but haven't you used carbon fiber nylon for the connecting rod? I am not 100% sure but it might actually be stronger than cast aluminium. but it doesn't handle heat as good so the aluminium rod is probably better. I would also do some research about aluminum heat treatment if you are gonna cast a rod. Although if it breaks I guess you can make another one, not like the Top Fuel piston is small.... idk actually I never seen one but I'd imagine it's quite big. meh... we'll see what happens and if it blow up xD
@@Cjarka_ I have another top fuel piston, I already melted down the one I got that was beat up, the one that I already had is in much better condition, and I also got a connecting rod from a top fuel and the intake and exhaust valve! I’ll show them off in the next video, then you can see how big they are!
Maybe a top layer of JB weld would help the 3d printed piston hold out even longer, with it running rich and low rpm I was really impressed with how long it lasted already.
@@Only1Sethy realistically it only takes about a day, from casting the aluminum to finishing machining is really only a day of work. I hopefully will be testing today, and I’m quite excited for that!
I don’t know how well that would work, but I will need something for my next video, as I am making a metal piston and con rod! Thank you for watching!!
I didn’t, I just slapped together a design in CAD and casted it, then I sanded the lobes by hand until they looked good, the only thing that is calculated is the lobe separation angle, and I went for 110°
@@Jfromtech now that I’m thinking about it, there was one other thing that I calculated, your valve lift should be a 1/4 of your valve diameter, my valve diameter is 1 inch, so my valve lift is 6 mm, just under the recommended valve lift that would be 6.35 mm, or 1/4 in.
i think your fuel filter is on backwards haha but in all reality this is such an amazing project. i wonder if some day it will be finalised and i can try to print and cast one myself
I didn’t even notice the fuel filter!🤣 in my next video I’m making a homemade cast aluminum piston, cast aluminum connecting rod, and any other parts that will need to be upgraded to metal in order for it to run for extended periods of time!
@@AmneYoshi1410 I believe that the microscopic holes was from a bread Company trying something, from Integza’s video. I’m not 100% sure but I think it was only the bread company that did the microscopic holes, I think normal metal 3-D printing is completely solid.
Id say running a bearing on that rod would help a bit. Because with just plastic id imahine once there is a lot of force pushing onto it it makes quite a but of friction.
I would agree, in the next video I’m going to be making a cast-iron piston and aluminum connecting rod, so I was planning on making a homemade two-piece brass bushing for it
@@ProjectLMZ that sounds interesting. Though i would personally go for a aluminium piston since a cast iron one would be really heavy. Specially for a aluminium rod. As for the bearing: while a 2 piece flatplain bearing would be fine, that is only really a case for pressurised lubrication system. Id say going for a needle or a ball bearing is a better bet overall. Id love to see this engine progress. Also maybe stiffer valve springs to allow more revs? And also because the 3d printed parts are now heavier.
@@tilen3266 I think a aluminum piston would gall the cylinder walls, that’s why I was thinking cast iron, I would do a F1 style cast iron piston, it would weigh the same as a full sized aluminum piston. Aluminum and steel don’t like to play nice together, they scratch and gall. For the bearing, my only issue is that I am welding the crank together, so if I were to put a needle bearing or roller bearing in there if it gets messed up the whole crank is screwed.
@@ProjectLMZ 1st. I dont really think that aluminium piston would cause issues. I mean aluminium piston and iron cylinder is how most car engines are made. Pitbike engines also. You would want a 0.1mm gap between the piston and the cylinder to ensure there is enough gap for the piston to expend when the whole thing heats up. 2nd. Yeah i also relised that shortly after commenting but the way you could do needles is to have a split rod, like right now and then use grease when assembling to hold them in place. Then once its all together it should all hold nicely. Kindof like old 2 strokes on the top of the rod. Thats how i did it. For the needles you would make a little recess into the rod to prevent them from going side to side. Hopefully I explained well enough. Or i guess you could add me on discord and id send you a 3d model to show you my idea. If you want to. I made some compressed air engines myself and i tend to over engineer stuff 😅
@@tilen3266 yes, most engines use aluminum pistons with cast iron cylinders, and they like each other, the work well together. But aluminum and steel do not like each other, the hate each other. They gall quite easily, and stick together. But I bet if I bumped up my fuel mix ratio to like 15-20 to 1 and keep a lot of oil in the crank case it would probably work, as oil helps a lot. But I’m not sure if it’s worth the risk. What do you think?
This engine is currently a single overhead cam, but what is DAOC? Direct acting overhead cam? If that’s the case, then that is what my engine is, but then what’s the difference between the two?
@@ProjectLMZI'd say it's not really important yet. DAOHC is just cam pushing directly on the valve, or via some sort of tappet/bucket, which is what you're running Sohc just means the same camshaft is pushing the valve via a rocker arm, so the valve could be angled, which leads, in theory, to possibly a higher volumetric efficiency, due to the air not having to do a 90deg turn before going into the engine But it's quite a bit more parts count, the rocker arm, the rocker arm standoff, the valve lash adjustment and so on. And since the engine doesn't seem to be revving higher than an old flathead lawnmower engine from the 50s, I think that's too much part to remake and so many more new variables to try and go wrong for minimal gain. Which is why I said not important yet, the engine as is could be improved much more first just as it is
I guess it likes running rich because the extra fuel acts as coolant. The downside of course is the build-up that you are seeing which will foul up the engine. If you're on the fence about cast iron/alluminum piston, I'd go alluminum, since you are running rich anyway so are unlikely to melt a hole through it, plus the reduction of weight will benefit the engine in so many ways.
The only thing I’m worried about with aluminum is it galling the cylinder, as aluminum and Steel don’t like to play nice. Also, the weight of the piston needs to be around 220 g, then that will balance out the engine, so if I go cast iron, I’m going to make a F1 style piston, which I think would be pretty cool!
@@ProjectLMZ also, if you're going for an f1 style low profile cast iron, you'll likely be around the same weight as a regular aluminium anyways :) with the added bonus of a higher melting temp. I look forward to seeing how you manage the smaller piston with blocking off the ports!
I'm guessing you're probably planning to use lost PLA casting with green sand to make the cast iron parts, but did you know you can actually make reusable "hard" molds with silicon carbide? I saw Shake The Future's video on it the other day.
I actually just push my part into the sand, and then I pull it out and cast it, but the silicone carbide mold sounds like a good idea! I’ll definitely have to check out his video!
@@ProjectLMZ another fun fact is that silicon carbide absorbs microwaves a LOT. So it can be preheated in a microwave oven. Just don't blast it at full power unless it's already hot or it might crack from the sudden temperature change.
I think I might actually try to make a homemade centrifugal supercharger for it!! I could 3-D print it even, they’ve had decent success with 3-D printed superchargers! I also want to try adding nitro!
@@RizzinMoms2 yeah the engine videos have really boosted my channel! This video, my newest, is currently my second fastest growing video on my channel, with my last video on the engine being the first, which I wasn’t really expecting, I kind of expected it to do better than my last video just because I think the thumbnail is better, but I still have to give it a bit, it might still take off. Currently the view slope looks like it’s already tapering off, but it’s too early to tell, as it could just take another jump and that’s what I’m hoping! 🤞
I’m not sure what the part is called but it connects the engine and carbi is this part okay to 3d print as I’m rebuilding an engine and can’t find a proper connector so I made and 3d printed my own
The head still gets hot, so once the engine warms up it will probably melt, that’s why I will probably be making my own metal one in the future, probably in the next video, as I am making a aluminum piston!
@@ProjectLMZ ahhh sound good will definitely be following along I would get it metal 3 d printed but super expensive 🙈 I’ll just have to figure it out alsk are your plans for your engines available online ect Also you should do a video on a hole new re build of the engine step my step on a 3d printer I guess so the viewer can follow along and what parts to upgrade from plastic ect
@@DavidLee-rj6vr I think it would be pretty cool to do a full teardown and rebuild video, as that would also allow me to make any parts better since it will already be apart! As for the plans, I don’t know if it would be a good idea as the plans do not match the engine, for example, in my CAD model, the head is 28 mm tall, on my engine it is 38 mm tall, I have just used my CAD design as a guide.
@@ProjectLMZ yeah I guess if the plans don’t match that’s a problem but if you where to put in hours and re design them and it was a solid design I guess you could even be like you can get the designs here for $1.99 or somthing ect sounds good for the rebuild
I actually have a idea for a project that is a completely 3d printed engine, I could even use a plastic cylinder, I could bore and hone it, obviously it’s not going to run for very long, but it would be cool to try!
I thought it was blowby, but it can’t be as it does it even with the spark plug out, I think it is because the crank case volume and cylinder volume are the same so the gasses in the crank case are moving at the same speed as the cylinder gasses.
I think so! I got the whole setup, the acer nitro 5, 32in 240hz curved monitor, keyboard and mouse, and a flight controller for $500, so I couldn’t resist!
I need to get one for sure, I need to get one of the kits that has the little metal piece inside of it, then I can just make it longer by adding a piece of wire in between the middle! Thank you for watching!!!
Yes, that would actually be really cool, I’m planning on casting a cast-iron piston, so it needs to be a fairly small piston to keep it light, but the specifications I would need would be a total volume of less than 40 cc, and set the bore diameter to 70 mm, because then that gives me enough room to turn it down to size, which is 66.5 mm. That would actually be super cool though!!
@@BROSKIES1209 that would be awesome!! Also the wrist pin diameter is 3/4 of an inch, which I forgot to include, but other than that, you can do whatever you want with the piston design!
@@BROSKIES1209 no rings would be fine, I am going to cast it and then machine everything else from there, but the ring thickness is going to be 2mm for both.
I don’t think so, as aluminum is used on most production engines today, and in the next video, I’m planning on adding water cooling. Maybe if I was running no cooling system at all it would melt the aluminum, but once I add water cooling, I should have a pretty reliable engine!
@@ProjectLMZ Yes that's what I ment. Unless you solve cooling. Anyvays, its pretty cool how easily you can make an engine if you omit things like cooling and simplify the design.
@@bringtheideas460 yeah I was actually surprised at how easy it was, and at how well it’s running, I got a top fuel dragster piston that I’m melting down for the aluminum, and then I’m going to cast a aluminum piston!
@@ProjectLMZ Can't wait to see that, since you reached a point when the piston melts. Have you thought about making it 2 stroke? That way you could eliminate the valves, crankshaft, chain and greatly siplyfy the design. You would have less points of failure. I am suprised Camden Bowen and you haven't started with that. Why is that? because the o ring would shear on ports?
@@bringtheideas460 actually if you look back on my playlist on the homemade engine, I tried a two-stroke, but the main issue I had was my ports, two strokes like ports that are perfect, and my ports were far from perfect. If I had a milling machine, it would be much easier to get the ports cut perfect, but without it using a Dremel makes it difficult to get them perfect. Obviously Camden was able to do it, and if I were to try again, I could probably do it, but I like the four stroke for one main reason. BOOST I’m planning on boosting the engine with either a supercharger or a turbo in the future!
![Kodak Black - Catch Fire [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A4ch-olIuZo/mqdefault.jpg)
heck yeah!
Landed himself a sponsorship and made the engine run great.
Proud of u buddy
Thank you!!! That means a lot!!
2:50 "Once I understood the weakness of plastic it disgusted me, I craved the strength and certainty of cast Aluminium."
This thing put smile on my face, thanks!!
Your welcome! I honestly you enjoy future videos too!!
Awesome! Congratulations! on getting your engine to run. Love the overhead camshaft and that fire shooting out of the exhaust yea, it's making some power! Too bad about the timing chain tensioner, she would have kept running. Machine more components on your lathe, use some 12L14 Steel, it's easy to machine and pretty tough too. Perfect for model engines.
That’s good to know! I have a video that I’m posting later tonight, it’s kinda a part 1, but enough stuff happens for it to be a video in itself. I have an aluminum piston that I machined and homemade rings, and it ran really good! Keep an eye out, I will be uploading the video soon!
never seen anyone wth this much dedication to building these.
camden?
@@throwawaypt2throwawaypt2-xp8nx well yes but me personally dont like him beacuse he throws his tools and parts but looking at the 2 stroke video id say he improved
@@flixd2513 you saying that him throwing his tools has nothing to do with "dedication" as you mention in this comment. Camden might have the same amount of dedication if not more, but you just don't like his style
Brilliant!
Direct a fan at it to cool things and should be much more reliable. Well done mate!
In the next video I’m planning on making a homemade cast iron piston and more, and then I will probably add a 3-D printed water cooling jacket, as the water should help keep the plastic cold enough not to melt.
Thank you for watching!!!
@@ProjectLMZ yesss!!
@@ProjectLMZ Keep it simple and just remake a cylinder with big cooling fins and as said before, direct a fan at it. No water to deal with or leaks. No water pump ether . Much cheaper as well. Porsche, VW, and Tatra were on to something but emissions regulations ended air cooled vehicles.
thats super cool! i loved this video and camden bowen's too. hopefully there are more like this
Thank you! I would like to see other people do it too!
Impressive fixing problems as they come. Toyota will be calling to hire you soon. Top notch work brother!!!!.
I like that! Maybe Toyota will call! I can only hope!
Appreciate the effort. I guess someone had to fool around with this. Looking forward to your videos of making a metal engine.
Just got done making the aluminum piston!
@@ProjectLMZ Great job, I'll keep an eye out for your next video.
We need more of this in this world, for sure, awesome freaking job dude
Thank you!! My next video will be more metal parts, like a cast iron piston and aluminum con rod
You should make it so the exhaust has a hole on its side so you could put a screw through it. By pushing it more or less in the exhaust you can increase or decrease the back pressure, which is known for making engines like these run way better.
That’s a good idea, but don’t 4 stroke engines like the least amount of back pressure? But I’m not sure, I haven’t done a lot of research on it.
@@ProjectLMZ Maybe..? I saw the little screw on my lawn mower's exhaust, it has the screw set to the least back pressure, AKA its almost unscrewed from the hole. The mower has a 4 stroke engine.
What dedication and brilliance you have, keep up the great work, it is so fun to see how far you have come over the years London🙌
Awsome work, seeing this thing run better and better with each video kinda makes you forget how much of a pain it was tryna get it to start in the first place, youve come a long way and sponsorship shows that great, its awsome to see what looks to be your little brother getting in the action, "its a bit hot bud, better let it cool down" 😂
Thank you!! He’s quite funny!
Dude, the amount of effort and time you put into this is insane! You’ll be a great engineer :D
Thank you!!
16:06 😂
fuel / spark ✔️💥
Compression 🚫.
Your videos are one of a few that I have to watch immediately. Seeing you get this running, the part failures/ upgrades to make it a little better each time👍.
Watching and waiting (patiently) for the eventual water cooling video.
I think water cooling will be in the next video! I’m planing on making a homemade cast iron piston and more, also when it fired while I was turning it by hand, it scared the crap out of me!! I was not expecting a to fire with zero compression!!
Thank you for watching!!
@@ProjectLMZyess I knew it!
The last part is getting me excited 😉
Excellent casting !👌 Guessing that compression isn't 800 PSI, valves should be fully closed when the piston is Top Dead center anyway. Running better with the new cam now. The spark jumping over to head pieces or screws is a common problem with miniature model engines. That's why you see a lot of them with the plug coming in the head at an angle or even on the side of the head.
Thing just purrs now
Seriously impressive
Thank you!
Briliant
Hey do you plan to put this on a vehicle or something when it runs good, or this just an experiment! Either way awesome video!
I definitely plan on doing things with it! I am planing on putting it on a bike or a homemade go kart!
@@ProjectLMZ Excited for that! Good luck
nice, runs really well! would be awesome to put it in something like a minibike. Im sure it has the power for it
I am planing on making more parts metal in the next video, so it will be very reliable hopefully! I might even do water cooling!
Great job scoring a sponsor! Also, nice to see it running longer and longer with each upgrade. Keep it up man!
Thank you! Next video will be making a cast iron piston and aluminum con rod for it!!
The process of engineering is wonderful. Eventually you'll end up with a fully reliable fully lubricated engine, and I'd love to see it happen however long it takes.
I literally just made a cast aluminum piston! It has a lot of pitting on the sides from me forgetting to de-gas the aluminum, but I think if anything it will just hold more oil.
Thank you for watching!
Very impressive skills. Awesome project!
Thank you!!
ooooh. An inline engine would be sick!
I am debating between an inline 2 and a V twin!
"You wouldn't download a car" - this ages quicker and quicker
Use some of that 2000F ceramic paint used for pits and coat the top of the piston to keep the heat from melting the piston as fast...I say 5 or more coats and test to see if it helps the longevity of the piston...very cool that it actually ran at all!
I just made a cast aluminum piston for the engine, although there is a lot of pitting on the sides and top from the casting, like a lot, but there all small, less than 1mm, so if anything I think it will just hold more oil. But I will fine out, next is I need to make the connecting rod, and then I will have all metal parts in the combustion chamber!
Thank you for watching!
after you refine it some more and add cooling it would be neat to attach it to a implement of some sort like a tiller, lawnmower, gocart, or generator
In the next video, I’m going to make more metal parts, like the piston and connecting Rod, so in the future I definitely want to try hooking it up to my bike!
@@ProjectLMZif you can get a alcohol card it will run way cooler
@@Jfromtech I could try running it on 99% isopropyl alcohol, but the only issue is is that I think it will destroy the carburetor
@@ProjectLMZ Sounds AWESOME!
This is COOOOL!
Thank you!!
keep going, gotta see multiple pistons
You will!
Awesome! Very inventive.
Thank you!!
Very cool, subscribed
Think you can one day turbocharge it?
Yes! I also want to put nitro in it!!
@@ProjectLMZthat would be amazing!
I’d also love to see some efficiency benchmarks, like powering an alternator and measuring how much power it can produce with a specific amount of fuel. Perhaps that data could help with future optimisation
@@among-us-99999 that’s a great idea!!
just get a random spark plug wire from the parts store or junkyard
I need to! It definitely needs one, as the spark loves to jump
Absolutely awesome, this is really rapid prototyping at it's best and all that effort super paid off. Also, before the water cooling, what about splash oil cooling? Like on the bottom on the piston, like early era automobile engines with just a tiny stick on the big end of the conrod dipping into the sump?
Thank you!
I have oil in the case up to the rod, but I think I will do water cooling as well. Also, a future project might be coming, as I just went to BIR nationals and got a con rod, cylinder sleeve, wrist pin, rings, and bearings from a top alcohol funny car, and the cylinder diameter is over 4 inches!!
You go man, go...
So far it's great...
🖖😎
Thank you!
For me 2 part silicone (tin cured) works great with PLA molds.
You could print a ring with (say 5) blades at a 45-degree angle, make it just big enough to slip over your flywheel for a cooling fan to keep the head temp down. You could turn up an aluminum piston on your lathe too.🤔
Keep an eye out for my next video, I think you will like it, it will be coming out later tonight!
@@ProjectLMZ Will do !
@@gwheyduke you should check out my channel, new video is up, I think you’ll like it if you liked this video
You can buy a spark plug cap and that should solve the problem (but make sure to buy a small one and a connector for the wire)
That’s what I’m thinking about doing, just hasn’t been necessary completely yet. I am just about to test the engine after rebuilding it with an aluminum piston!
i think it sounds a bit too rich at idle, get a smaller pilot jet maybe. idk what carb that is but if the mixture screw is on the fuel side then it probably has a pilot jet thats too big considering u said it likes it all the way in. you should also use mold silicone for the boot or just get a boot online
It might also help to put a filter on the carb to restrict some air from going in
It is definitely running very rich, it has a total run time of like 10 minutes and the exhaust valve and exhaust are completely covered in a black film, I actually think I need to back out the screw, it dropped the idle when I did, but I think that’s just because it was getting less fuel. I will definitely have to try some more things!!
@@germansheperd3250 thats gonna make it richer.
You need a smaller jet very likely
@@ProjectLMZ i think it dropped the idle because it was a fuel screw not an air screw but im not sure
Since you have a lathe, it would be really cool to see something completely homemade even if it’s metal. There’s a guy on yt who made a mini engine that was like 3cc he made the camshaft on a lathe and I think you can do the same thing if you build the jig. It would be really cool to see it. Edit: I commented this before I saw you cast the cam lol
lol, Thank you for watching!! I want to build an in-line two next!
@@ProjectLMZ that would be amazing. If you can somehow go to entirety cast that would still be epic. Just shows how easy an engine can be made. I’ve wanted to take in this project myself but I live in an apartment and I’m a college student so I don’t have the space or the budget. But one day I will
Ah this is incredible work! What CAD software do you use, and will you be releasing the plans?
I use tinkerCAD, but I’m switching over to onshape, but there’s really no plans, as the metal parts are not like the 3d model, they’re different by quite a bit. Like my 3d model of the head is 28mm tall, and the actual head is 38mm tall.
Thank you for watching!
@@ProjectLMZ Absolutely! I use Onshape for a lot of my projects and it's pretty good for what it is. You've given me quite a bit of inspiration for attempting something like this, maybe at a smaller scale though. 180cc seems HUGE! Any particular reason you went with something so large?
@@dogechannel9933 once I get it running reliably I want to put it on something, my next engine is going to be a 360 cc in line 2, two of my current engines put together, reason for an in-line two is because it will be easier to make the crank case than a V twin!
@@ProjectLMZ Yeah I totally get that. If I were to make a multi cylinder it would either be a boxer style engine, or an inline just for ease of use. I can't wait to see your journey through this!
@@dogechannel9933 I think it would be pretty cool to make an inline 2! If I get monetized I will probably start working on it soon!! I’m close to being monetized!
so awesome. as a diy'r in awe
It's just a matter of time until you start designing a transmission and clutch to mount it on a bike.
I do want to mount it on my bike eventually! I am going to get it running reliably first, then I want to turbo and nitro it!!
@@ProjectLMZ Hey, maybe not a turbo, but some people made very promising 3d printed superchargers and prochargers.
@@Drosba that would definitely make it cheaper, and I could do a whole project on that too!!
I am impressed with how much the engine has improved and how well-ish it's running
I am not sure but I think making the compression ratio higher would allow you to run leaner AF ratio which would make the carbon less of a problem
Or maybe the carburetor needs some tuning, if you take the top apart there is a needle with an E clip which basically sets the AF ratio
Having such a short intake doesn't let the fuel evaporate and mix very well which means you'd need more fuel to keep the engine running but that's not exactly a priority right now as the engine doesn't run forever
Speaking of running longer, the cast iron piston, while more durable than cast aluminium, is also 3 times the weight and compared to the more hollow plastic one it'll be at least 7 or 8 time heavier I would say tho probably less... anyways make sure the connecting rod can take it and won't just snap at the 1200 rpm idle (by ear it's around 1100-1300 rpm)
I very much can't wait for the next part
I was thinking about using cast-iron because the aluminum that I have is from pop cans, which isn’t exactly a high-quality aluminum, but we went to NHRA nationals this weekend at BIR, and I got a top fuel dragster piston that was beat up, so I’m going to melt down that piston and use it to cast a cast aluminum piston, and then I’m going to use the same material to make a cast aluminum connecting rod!
Oh I wouldn't melt that down I'd have it on a shelf somewhere for decor but you do you. I don't exactly remember but haven't you used carbon fiber nylon for the connecting rod? I am not 100% sure but it might actually be stronger than cast aluminium. but it doesn't handle heat as good so the aluminium rod is probably better. I would also do some research about aluminum heat treatment if you are gonna cast a rod. Although if it breaks I guess you can make another one, not like the Top Fuel piston is small.... idk actually I never seen one but I'd imagine it's quite big.
meh... we'll see what happens and if it blow up xD
@@Cjarka_ I have another top fuel piston, I already melted down the one I got that was beat up, the one that I already had is in much better condition, and I also got a connecting rod from a top fuel and the intake and exhaust valve! I’ll show them off in the next video, then you can see how big they are!
Maybe a top layer of JB weld would help the 3d printed piston hold out even longer, with it running rich and low rpm I was really impressed with how long it lasted already.
Well I have made an aluminum piston, so it will last a lot longer, just got done making the piston rings as well!
@@ProjectLMZ that was pretty fast! I just figured it'd take a bit to make an aluminum one
@@Only1Sethy realistically it only takes about a day, from casting the aluminum to finishing machining is really only a day of work. I hopefully will be testing today, and I’m quite excited for that!
You prob should 3d print a piston on pcbway, it would improve the run time A LOT
I’m planning on casting my own cast-iron or aluminum piston, as I like to make as much as I can homemade
Now we need a 3D printed radiator
I don’t know how well that would work, but I will need something for my next video, as I am making a metal piston and con rod!
Thank you for watching!!
Amazing!!
Running rich is probably the only thing keeping the piston alive for so long haha.
I do think that was helping, I think if it was running lean it would have burnt through pretty quickly!
Thank you for watching!!
How did u figure out the can lift and duration
I didn’t, I just slapped together a design in CAD and casted it, then I sanded the lobes by hand until they looked good, the only thing that is calculated is the lobe separation angle, and I went for 110°
@@ProjectLMZ awesome I’m thinking about doing a project like yours and good to know
@@Jfromtech now that I’m thinking about it, there was one other thing that I calculated, your valve lift should be a 1/4 of your valve diameter, my valve diameter is 1 inch, so my valve lift is 6 mm, just under the recommended valve lift that would be 6.35 mm, or 1/4 in.
i think your fuel filter is on backwards haha
but in all reality this is such an amazing project. i wonder if some day it will be finalised and i can try to print and cast one myself
I didn’t even notice the fuel filter!🤣 in my next video I’m making a homemade cast aluminum piston, cast aluminum connecting rod, and any other parts that will need to be upgraded to metal in order for it to run for extended periods of time!
im curious about full metal 3D print engine
Very spendy, but would be cool!!
@@ProjectLMZ iv heard a 3d printed metal has a microscopic holes on them idk if it true, just saying
@@AmneYoshi1410 I believe that the microscopic holes was from a bread Company trying something, from Integza’s video. I’m not 100% sure but I think it was only the bread company that did the microscopic holes, I think normal metal 3-D printing is completely solid.
@@ProjectLMZ yea i also now it from him
Id say running a bearing on that rod would help a bit. Because with just plastic id imahine once there is a lot of force pushing onto it it makes quite a but of friction.
I would agree, in the next video I’m going to be making a cast-iron piston and aluminum connecting rod, so I was planning on making a homemade two-piece brass bushing for it
@@ProjectLMZ that sounds interesting. Though i would personally go for a aluminium piston since a cast iron one would be really heavy. Specially for a aluminium rod. As for the bearing: while a 2 piece flatplain bearing would be fine, that is only really a case for pressurised lubrication system. Id say going for a needle or a ball bearing is a better bet overall. Id love to see this engine progress. Also maybe stiffer valve springs to allow more revs? And also because the 3d printed parts are now heavier.
@@tilen3266 I think a aluminum piston would gall the cylinder walls, that’s why I was thinking cast iron, I would do a F1 style cast iron piston, it would weigh the same as a full sized aluminum piston. Aluminum and steel don’t like to play nice together, they scratch and gall.
For the bearing, my only issue is that I am welding the crank together, so if I were to put a needle bearing or roller bearing in there if it gets messed up the whole crank is screwed.
@@ProjectLMZ 1st. I dont really think that aluminium piston would cause issues. I mean aluminium piston and iron cylinder is how most car engines are made. Pitbike engines also. You would want a 0.1mm gap between the piston and the cylinder to ensure there is enough gap for the piston to expend when the whole thing heats up.
2nd. Yeah i also relised that shortly after commenting but the way you could do needles is to have a split rod, like right now and then use grease when assembling to hold them in place. Then once its all together it should all hold nicely. Kindof like old 2 strokes on the top of the rod. Thats how i did it. For the needles you would make a little recess into the rod to prevent them from going side to side. Hopefully I explained well enough. Or i guess you could add me on discord and id send you a 3d model to show you my idea. If you want to. I made some compressed air engines myself and i tend to over engineer stuff 😅
@@tilen3266 yes, most engines use aluminum pistons with cast iron cylinders, and they like each other, the work well together. But aluminum and steel do not like each other, the hate each other. They gall quite easily, and stick together. But I bet if I bumped up my fuel mix ratio to like 15-20 to 1 and keep a lot of oil in the crank case it would probably work, as oil helps a lot. But I’m not sure if it’s worth the risk. What do you think?
3:43 That mouse must be a pain in the A to clean...
I imagine it getting dirty and grimey in no time 😮
you should make a SOHC ver of the engine, DAOC is a little more friction-heavy, so I'm curious
This engine is currently a single overhead cam, but what is DAOC? Direct acting overhead cam? If that’s the case, then that is what my engine is, but then what’s the difference between the two?
@@ProjectLMZI'd say it's not really important yet.
DAOHC is just cam pushing directly on the valve, or via some sort of tappet/bucket, which is what you're running
Sohc just means the same camshaft is pushing the valve via a rocker arm, so the valve could be angled, which leads, in theory, to possibly a higher volumetric efficiency, due to the air not having to do a 90deg turn before going into the engine
But it's quite a bit more parts count, the rocker arm, the rocker arm standoff, the valve lash adjustment and so on. And since the engine doesn't seem to be revving higher than an old flathead lawnmower engine from the 50s, I think that's too much part to remake and so many more new variables to try and go wrong for minimal gain.
Which is why I said not important yet, the engine as is could be improved much more first just as it is
I guess it likes running rich because the extra fuel acts as coolant. The downside of course is the build-up that you are seeing which will foul up the engine. If you're on the fence about cast iron/alluminum piston, I'd go alluminum, since you are running rich anyway so are unlikely to melt a hole through it, plus the reduction of weight will benefit the engine in so many ways.
The only thing I’m worried about with aluminum is it galling the cylinder, as aluminum and Steel don’t like to play nice. Also, the weight of the piston needs to be around 220 g, then that will balance out the engine, so if I go cast iron, I’m going to make a F1 style piston, which I think would be pretty cool!
Would be cool. You'll just be shifting more weight with each cycle, but since you don't need super high RPM anyway, I guess it won't be an issue.
@@ProjectLMZ also, if you're going for an f1 style low profile cast iron, you'll likely be around the same weight as a regular aluminium anyways :) with the added bonus of a higher melting temp. I look forward to seeing how you manage the smaller piston with blocking off the ports!
I'm guessing you're probably planning to use lost PLA casting with green sand to make the cast iron parts, but did you know you can actually make reusable "hard" molds with silicon carbide? I saw Shake The Future's video on it the other day.
I actually just push my part into the sand, and then I pull it out and cast it, but the silicone carbide mold sounds like a good idea! I’ll definitely have to check out his video!
@@ProjectLMZ another fun fact is that silicon carbide absorbs microwaves a LOT. So it can be preheated in a microwave oven. Just don't blast it at full power unless it's already hot or it might crack from the sudden temperature change.
also the rich running thing, try advancing the timing
It’s going to melt the piston quicker if he makes it not run rich
this is cool as shit dude wish i had a smaller lathe chuck so i could do this
What lathe do you have? I wish I had a bigger lathe for most stuff!🤣
metal 3d print a piston pls its gona help a lot
I’m going to make a homemade cast-iron piston and aluminum connecting rod in the next video!
He is just like Camden Bowen
Thank you! I love his videos, hope to get to where he is one day with RUclips!
This looks familiar but out of metal
What does it look familiar to?
@ProjectLMZ I can't remember the channel, but he did it out of plastic. Seeing this video reminded me of it.
@@Skullsplitter217camden bowen or sum like that
@@garlicbreadbeans yep that's it
add an alternator so you can power stuff like an Xbox "Xbox powered engine" would make for a great video
I am planing on trying to power stuff once I get it running reliably! I have a titanium con rod coming soon!!
@@ProjectLMZ nice! i like your videos they are great
@@ohiosigmarizzler344 thank you!
@@ProjectLMZ your welcome
hell yeh, put a turbo on it!!
I think I might actually try to make a homemade centrifugal supercharger for it!! I could 3-D print it even, they’ve had decent success with 3-D printed superchargers! I also want to try adding nitro!
@@ProjectLMZ can I get credit in the description? Just curious
@@RizzinMoms2 sure, not exactly sure when I will do it, but I will probably build one eventually!
@@ProjectLMZ thanks you, I’ve been subbed since like 600 subs, your channel is growing pretty fast
@@RizzinMoms2 yeah the engine videos have really boosted my channel! This video, my newest, is currently my second fastest growing video on my channel, with my last video on the engine being the first, which I wasn’t really expecting, I kind of expected it to do better than my last video just because I think the thumbnail is better, but I still have to give it a bit, it might still take off. Currently the view slope looks like it’s already tapering off, but it’s too early to tell, as it could just take another jump and that’s what I’m hoping! 🤞
I’m not sure what the part is called but it connects the engine and carbi is this part okay to 3d print as I’m rebuilding an engine and can’t find a proper connector so I made and 3d printed my own
The head still gets hot, so once the engine warms up it will probably melt, that’s why I will probably be making my own metal one in the future, probably in the next video, as I am making a aluminum piston!
@@ProjectLMZ ahhh sound good will definitely be following along I would get it metal 3 d printed but super expensive 🙈 I’ll just have to figure it out alsk are your plans for your engines available online ect
Also you should do a video on a hole new re build of the engine step my step on a 3d printer I guess so the viewer can follow along and what parts to upgrade from plastic ect
@@DavidLee-rj6vr I think it would be pretty cool to do a full teardown and rebuild video, as that would also allow me to make any parts better since it will already be apart! As for the plans, I don’t know if it would be a good idea as the plans do not match the engine, for example, in my CAD model, the head is 28 mm tall, on my engine it is 38 mm tall, I have just used my CAD design as a guide.
@@ProjectLMZ yeah I guess if the plans don’t match that’s a problem but if you where to put in hours and re design them and it was a solid design I guess you could even be like you can get the designs here for $1.99 or somthing ect sounds good for the rebuild
lesson learned: no you cant make an engine fully out of plastic lol
I actually have a idea for a project that is a completely 3d printed engine, I could even use a plastic cylinder, I could bore and hone it, obviously it’s not going to run for very long, but it would be cool to try!
Lot of blow by coming out your oil fill.
I thought it was blowby, but it can’t be as it does it even with the spark plug out, I think it is because the crank case volume and cylinder volume are the same so the gasses in the crank case are moving at the same speed as the cylinder gasses.
aerox 3?
I think so! I got the whole setup, the acer nitro 5, 32in 240hz curved monitor, keyboard and mouse, and a flight controller for $500, so I couldn’t resist!
I dare you to make a rotary engine >:)
Liquid piston engine! I probably can’t, at least a combustion version. Would be fun to try though!
nice nice, People who agree he should use a sparkplug boot
👇
I need to get one for sure, I need to get one of the kits that has the little metal piece inside of it, then I can just make it longer by adding a piece of wire in between the middle!
Thank you for watching!!!
Can I 3D model you a pistons
Yes, that would actually be really cool, I’m planning on casting a cast-iron piston, so it needs to be a fairly small piston to keep it light, but the specifications I would need would be a total volume of less than 40 cc, and set the bore diameter to 70 mm, because then that gives me enough room to turn it down to size, which is 66.5 mm.
That would actually be super cool though!!
@@ProjectLMZ I'm going to be making it for free
@@BROSKIES1209 that would be awesome!! Also the wrist pin diameter is 3/4 of an inch, which I forgot to include, but other than that, you can do whatever you want with the piston design!
@@ProjectLMZ you want rings or no rings on the pistons
@@BROSKIES1209 no rings would be fine, I am going to cast it and then machine everything else from there, but the ring thickness is going to be 2mm for both.
You will get to a point when the aluminium will start to melt...
I don’t think so, as aluminum is used on most production engines today, and in the next video, I’m planning on adding water cooling. Maybe if I was running no cooling system at all it would melt the aluminum, but once I add water cooling, I should have a pretty reliable engine!
@@ProjectLMZ Yes that's what I ment. Unless you solve cooling. Anyvays, its pretty cool how easily you can make an engine if you omit things like cooling and simplify the design.
@@bringtheideas460 yeah I was actually surprised at how easy it was, and at how well it’s running, I got a top fuel dragster piston that I’m melting down for the aluminum, and then I’m going to cast a aluminum piston!
@@ProjectLMZ Can't wait to see that, since you reached a point when the piston melts.
Have you thought about making it 2 stroke? That way you could eliminate the valves, crankshaft, chain and greatly siplyfy the design. You would have less points of failure. I am suprised Camden Bowen and you haven't started with that. Why is that? because the o ring would shear on ports?
@@bringtheideas460 actually if you look back on my playlist on the homemade engine, I tried a two-stroke, but the main issue I had was my ports, two strokes like ports that are perfect, and my ports were far from perfect. If I had a milling machine, it would be much easier to get the ports cut perfect, but without it using a Dremel makes it difficult to get them perfect. Obviously Camden was able to do it, and if I were to try again, I could probably do it, but I like the four stroke for one main reason.
BOOST
I’m planning on boosting the engine with either a supercharger or a turbo in the future!