Soviet gauges that used radioactive paint usually had it on the scale and arrow in the form of orange stripes. Over the years, they have stopped glowing at all due to burnout. If you see something orange that doesn't glow, it's most likely radioactive. Green paint was usually made on the basis of phosphorus, it glows in ultraviolet light and works as a light accumulator, it is not radioactive. Very rarely, a combined phosphorus- and radium-based paint was used. It may be green, but I haven't seen any like it. Even if the paint is radioactive, just do not disassemble your gauge, and the radioactive dust from the paint will remain inside. In any case, you need to use a radiation sensor to be sure. The problem is that radioactive paint emits alpha and gamma radiation, and home meters usually don't sense alpha. To do this, use gas discharge sensors with a mica window. Check the datasheet for your radiation meter.
That's a beautiful old generator! I'm envious. The poor running is not because of your fuel-oil mix; something else is going on. Most two-stroke engines are very tolerant of your fuel mix, but make sure that gasoline is fresh! Possible an ignition problem, but likely a carburetor issue.
The gasoline is fresh; I bought it on the day of the start. Maybe the ignition timing is set incorrectly. Or perhaps the missing rubber on the needle in the carburetor, which shuts off the fuel supply, has a significant impact on the performance... I need to look into it...
It may need some time to run your 1:25 mix to burn off the old oil left from the past life. If the carb bowl looked that bad, the crank case may be oily too? Try a steady load like incandescent light bulbs. Cheep load bank with light bulbs and switches!
Thanks for the advice! That makes sense-it probably needs some time to clear out the old oil residue. I haven’t checked the crankcase yet, but it could definitely be oily given the state of the carburetor. I’ll try the steady load idea with incandescent light bulbs; that’s a great suggestion for a cheap load bank. Appreciate the tip! 😊
The mixture is probably 1/25 (4%) as used by most engine of that age. Use normal (mineral) 2stroke oil (SAE30) or eventually 10w30 not synthetic. You're missing the air-filter.
Thank you very much for the recommendation, I will try using SAE30. I didn’t have the air filter installed because I was shutting the engine off by choking the air. However, I’ve now found the kill switch near the ignition.
У меня такой же, на моëм канале есть видео. Соотношение масла и бензина правильное, двигатель прогреется и перестанет дымить. Чтобы было нормальное напряжение, нужно добавить обороты двигателя, чтобы на приборе была частота 50 герц.
Проверь состояние сальников коленвала. За столько лет они скорее всего потеряли эластичность и идет подсос воздуха в кшм, от этого и повышенная дымность и падение мощности и нестабильная работа.
Thank you for the suggestion! I'll definitely check the crankshaft seals. It makes sense that they might have lost elasticity over the years, causing air leaks. I appreciate the advice!
The exact technical specifications, such as the engine's RPM, are not provided in the available sources. I believe it will be around 3,000 to 3,600 RPM..
Needle not sealing because of it should have an round rubber ring under it head.this ring disapear in fuel over the years.just buy new needle with saddle,whitch will fit to size.i know from wich cars you can get it on ex-ussr territory,but don't know what you can buy on your place.
Exactly, when I was cleaning the needle, there were remnants of rubber on it. Could you please tell me from which car I should try to get the needle? I could try to buy it on eBay.com.
No! 50:1 is suitable only for the most modern of two-stroke engines. Even then, many of us with mechanical experience have switched back to 40:1 or even 32:1. There have been to too many failures seen with the very lean mixtures when worked hard. This old engine will be happiest with 25:1.
@@KevinMaxwell-o3t I don't understand, you are saying that with a mixture lower in oil it is better?. 50:1 there is more oil in gasoline than in 40:1. In my humble opinion you are better off with more oil than less.
@@spiro7723 No, you misunderstand, spiro. A 50:1 mix is one part oil to 50 parts gasoline (2% oil). A 40:1 mix is one part oil to 40 parts gas (2.5%). I run my older engines on a 32:1 mix (3%). You and I agree: more oil is safer for these old engines. Cheers!
It must have been a delight staying at that guy's cottage.
With me, they'll have it better!
Good video. Thank you. 👍
Thank you for the comment!
Кайфовый советский генератор ))) Береги его это нельзя ломать только починить и кайфовать )))
I agree, I will take good care of it!
Nice 👍👍👍
Thank you!
Soviet gauges that used radioactive paint usually had it on the scale and arrow in the form of orange stripes. Over the years, they have stopped glowing at all due to burnout. If you see something orange that doesn't glow, it's most likely radioactive.
Green paint was usually made on the basis of phosphorus, it glows in ultraviolet light and works as a light accumulator, it is not radioactive.
Very rarely, a combined phosphorus- and radium-based paint was used. It may be green, but I haven't seen any like it. Even if the paint is radioactive, just do not disassemble your gauge, and the radioactive dust from the paint will remain inside.
In any case, you need to use a radiation sensor to be sure. The problem is that radioactive paint emits alpha and gamma radiation, and home meters usually don't sense alpha. To do this, use gas discharge sensors with a mica window. Check the datasheet for your radiation meter.
That's a beautiful old generator! I'm envious. The poor running is not because of your fuel-oil mix; something else is going on. Most two-stroke engines are very tolerant of your fuel mix, but make sure that gasoline is fresh! Possible an ignition problem, but likely a carburetor issue.
The gasoline is fresh; I bought it on the day of the start. Maybe the ignition timing is set incorrectly. Or perhaps the missing rubber on the needle in the carburetor, which shuts off the fuel supply, has a significant impact on the performance... I need to look into it...
Good job getting it back on tracks! God, I love seeing such vintage sports into motion
Thank you!!
It may need some time to run your 1:25 mix to burn off the old oil left from the past life. If the carb bowl looked that bad, the crank case may be oily too? Try a steady load like incandescent light bulbs. Cheep load bank with light bulbs and switches!
Thanks for the advice! That makes sense-it probably needs some time to clear out the old oil residue. I haven’t checked the crankcase yet, but it could definitely be oily given the state of the carburetor. I’ll try the steady load idea with incandescent light bulbs; that’s a great suggestion for a cheap load bank. Appreciate the tip! 😊
The mixture is probably 1/25 (4%) as used by most engine of that age. Use normal (mineral) 2stroke oil (SAE30) or eventually 10w30 not synthetic.
You're missing the air-filter.
Thank you very much for the recommendation, I will try using SAE30. I didn’t have the air filter installed because I was shutting the engine off by choking the air. However, I’ve now found the kill switch near the ignition.
@@FixitBuilditLoveit The magneto is a Bosch-type; they usually have a button to short the coil to ground.
@douro20 You are absolutely right, there is a button on the magneto, thanks!
У меня такой же, на моëм канале есть видео. Соотношение масла и бензина правильное, двигатель прогреется и перестанет дымить. Чтобы было нормальное напряжение, нужно добавить обороты двигателя, чтобы на приборе была частота 50 герц.
Thanks for the tip! I will try adjusting the engine RPM to reach 50 Hz.
Soviet union!!!! Made in USSR, not Russian.
You're absolutely right! Thank you for pointing that out-it's Soviet, made in the USSR. My mistake!
OMG! i was playing Metro Exodus... a post apocaliptic story in Russia... u could ecounder generators like this in the game.
haha, I’ll try playing that game too!
Проверь состояние сальников коленвала. За столько лет они скорее всего потеряли эластичность и идет подсос воздуха в кшм, от этого и повышенная дымность и падение мощности и нестабильная работа.
Thank you for the suggestion! I'll definitely check the crankshaft seals. It makes sense that they might have lost elasticity over the years, causing air leaks. I appreciate the advice!
Witam. Jaki jest rozmiar (numer) uszczelniaczy na wale?
4% is a lot for modern synthetic 2 stroke oil. You could even run it at 1% (even for a dirtbike) but 2% is the standard
it is said by the wise gopniks of the neighborhood that it runs on vodka
Haha, that explains why it runs better after a shot of vodka! Cheers to the wise gopniks!
Nice freebie that!
Thank you! I couldn’t resist picking it up when I saw it. 🙂
the 80s russian geiger counters used a glow in the dark panel that was safe as well, where as the check source on them was uh, spicy
haha, "spicy" is a great way to put it! Definitely a product of its time! Thanks for sharing that insight
😊😊
Looks like a nice unit what rpm does it operate at
The exact technical specifications, such as the engine's RPM, are not provided in the available sources. I believe it will be around 3,000 to 3,600 RPM..
@@FixitBuilditLoveitвсë верно, 3000 оборотов в минуту.
Your centrifugal regulator flap is not working; perhaps you have not moved the handle to the working position on the crankcase!
I believe the regulator is working; you can see it in 9:08
Needle not sealing because of it should have an round rubber ring under it head.this ring disapear in fuel over the years.just buy new needle with saddle,whitch will fit to size.i know from wich cars you can get it on ex-ussr territory,but don't know what you can buy on your place.
Also because of needle its overfuel engine
Exactly, when I was cleaning the needle, there were remnants of rubber on it. Could you please tell me from which car I should try to get the needle? I could try to buy it on eBay.com.
Sounds like it's running with the choke half way on
Hmm, but I didn't find any lever for the choke
@@FixitBuilditLoveitв интернете есть документация и инструкция по эксплуатации этого генератора и двигателя..
cool
thanks!
What is the rated power? 1000VA?
It should be 1kW
@ЛёхаСмирновсмерчь You still use it everyday? Interesting
For 1kW output power, this 2 stroke generator set weighs over 100lbs. Which is interesting...
First use 2 stroke oil only, and the good mix is 50:1
I use oil for two-stroke engines, as you can see in 7:20. Isn't 1:50 more suitable for modern engines?
No! 50:1 is suitable only for the most modern of two-stroke engines. Even then, many of us with mechanical experience have switched back to 40:1 or even 32:1. There have been to too many failures seen with the very lean mixtures when worked hard. This old engine will be happiest with 25:1.
@@KevinMaxwell-o3t
I don't understand, you are saying that with a mixture lower in oil it is better?. 50:1 there is more oil in gasoline than in 40:1. In my humble opinion you are better off with more oil than less.
@@spiro7723 No, you misunderstand, spiro. A 50:1 mix is one part oil to 50 parts gasoline (2% oil). A 40:1 mix is one part oil to 40 parts gas (2.5%). I run my older engines on a 32:1 mix (3%). You and I agree: more oil is safer for these old engines. Cheers!
@@KevinMaxwell-o3tсовершенно верно.
😎
😀👍
I think better ratio would be 1/40
Thank you I will try it!
See my comment above. These old engines need the lubrication supplied by a 25:1 mix. Don't believe the claims made by two-stroke oil makers.
Scooter engine
Exactly!
Двигатель мотоцикла "Минск".
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