Fwiw also managed to solve my other electrics problems btw.. the dash problem was a badly repaired/soldered component and the more recent ‘bike cutting straight out’ was stupidity… when i took the cluster apart to fit heated grips n usb, I also removed the angle sensor and its rubber jacket/bracket.. upon reassembly i some how managed to put it back upside down.. the gottcha was the rubber jacket bracket had written on it “This way up” but bollox here had inserted the sensor upside down.. Here end eth the lesson💆🏻♂️
I partially fixed the switch; three wires are soldered to the edge of a small cct board. I dug a bit of the plastic housing away, carefully scratched the tracks to apply flux and re soldered the wires; unfortunately the engine isolator part of the switch was also u/s. So using hot glue (strain relief) and self amalgamation tape (waterproofing) job jobbed. In essence One of the three wires is the ground and the other two wires are connected/disconnected by the side stand. I just shorted the common ECU engine isolator wire to the ground wire.
Finally, the other job I hope to do is the wheel bearings… I read the rear wheel failing can be catastrophic under load. When I greased the roller bearings in the suspension assembly I noticed the rear axel seals were worn so to avoid the bearings failing and bc the cost is so low I’m gonna change them! maybe worth thinking about/ a vid! BTW and from experience, greasing the rear suspension assembly needle bearings needs to be done with red high temp grease bc the exhaust heats the assembly up and the standard EP grease runs out💆🏻♂️
I used belray marine grease on my dog bone rear suspension parts I think when moving it's ok and won't over heat you could wrap your downpipes I have so my shock doesn't get cooked again.
Can you elaborate on the shock cooking.. I have a free spinning adjustment on mine ie. no clicks/ detents.. It’s hopefully a refill fix bc I don’t want to spend a thousand on a new one😬
@@pardonwhat yes when I first got my bike it dumped the oil out so got it repaired and had a progressive spring fitted so to keep the heat away from the shock I wrapped the down pipes now the end cans get warm.
I lied, one more suggestion; have you done anything with your rec/reg.. ? Mine has a problem with the wires running hot to touch (underrated by the look) its an aftermarket rec/reg but its not right.. The usb I’ve just fitted has a volt meter which is telling me it’s sporadically over charging 15.4v). I believe from the forums there’s a mosfet version from a Polaris thats recommended (SH775) . Last week where the rec/reg wires connect (beside the battery) to the stator on the AC side, they over heated and burned the connector.. The forums tell me that these spade connections go high resistance over time bc the regulator can’t handle the 500w output from the stator.. Any stories of experience or fixes your good self had/have implemented!?
Mine was running at 15v when I carried out the diode test on the rr I found one of the diodes wasn't working correctly I replaced mine with a aftermarket one that wires straight to the battery not the loom it now outputs 14v with lights on.
This is the one and the people I purchased mine from have been on the bike for two years now and haven't missed a beatwww.motoelectrical.co.uk/product/regulator-rectifier-for-loom-by-pass-mosfet-universal/
Fwiw also managed to solve my other electrics problems btw.. the dash problem was a badly repaired/soldered component and the more recent ‘bike cutting straight out’ was stupidity… when i took the cluster apart to fit heated grips n usb, I also removed the angle sensor and its rubber jacket/bracket.. upon reassembly i some how managed to put it back upside down.. the gottcha was the rubber jacket bracket had written on it “This way up” but bollox here had inserted the sensor upside down..
Here end eth the lesson💆🏻♂️
Are the tip over sensor yes they are labelled
I partially fixed the switch; three wires are soldered to the edge of a small cct board. I dug a bit of the plastic housing away, carefully scratched the tracks to apply flux and re soldered the wires; unfortunately the engine isolator part of the switch was also u/s. So using hot glue (strain relief) and self amalgamation tape (waterproofing) job jobbed.
In essence One of the three wires is the ground and the other two wires are connected/disconnected by the side stand.
I just shorted the common ECU engine isolator wire to the ground wire.
They are a bit fiddly down there that's why I've eliminated it failing later on for me.
Finally, the other job I hope to do is the wheel bearings… I read the rear wheel failing can be catastrophic under load.
When I greased the roller bearings in the suspension assembly I noticed the rear axel seals were worn so to avoid the bearings failing and bc the cost is so low I’m gonna change them! maybe worth thinking about/ a vid!
BTW and from experience, greasing the rear suspension assembly needle bearings needs to be done with red high temp grease bc the exhaust heats the assembly up and the standard EP grease runs out💆🏻♂️
I used belray marine grease on my dog bone rear suspension parts I think when moving it's ok and won't over heat you could wrap your downpipes I have so my shock doesn't get cooked again.
Can you elaborate on the shock cooking..
I have a free spinning adjustment on mine ie. no clicks/ detents.. It’s hopefully a refill fix bc I don’t want to spend a thousand on a new one😬
@@pardonwhat yes when I first got my bike it dumped the oil out so got it repaired and had a progressive spring fitted so to keep the heat away from the shock I wrapped the down pipes now the end cans get warm.
I lied, one more suggestion; have you done anything with your rec/reg.. ?
Mine has a problem with the wires running hot to touch (underrated by the look) its an aftermarket rec/reg but its not right.. The usb I’ve just fitted has a volt meter which is telling me it’s sporadically over charging 15.4v). I believe from the forums there’s a mosfet version from a Polaris thats recommended (SH775) .
Last week where the rec/reg wires connect (beside the battery) to the stator on the AC side, they over heated and burned the connector.. The forums tell me that these spade connections go high resistance over time bc the regulator can’t handle the 500w output from the stator..
Any stories of experience or fixes your good self had/have implemented!?
Mine was running at 15v when I carried out the diode test on the rr I found one of the diodes wasn't working correctly I replaced mine with a aftermarket one that wires straight to the battery not the loom it now outputs 14v with lights on.
I also soldered my three phase wires together from the generator
This is the one and the people I purchased mine from have been on the bike for two years now and haven't missed a beatwww.motoelectrical.co.uk/product/regulator-rectifier-for-loom-by-pass-mosfet-universal/
Can I ask where are the diodes physically are on the bike?
@@pardonwhat the diodes that are built into the R/R
All I did was cut it off.. sealed the end & tucked it away.. BS "safety" feature
Yep thats all you need all does the same job .
'promo sm' 😜
Just thought it's not a bad idea