I completely agree with the dual sandbag set up you are using. Been using that same set up for years. Another reason I like it, is that it is much more likely to mimic more closely your eye position for most hunting positions and it is better practice for getting off a clean shot than pulling the trigger on a gun with no recoil.
I always, if possible, look through the bore and adjust the scope to that at home. Never far off. Usually if its a new gun, by the time the barrrel is broken in everything is great!
If you have a really great rifle, 3 shots is plenty!!! Shoot your first shot, keep your rifle aimed at original point, and then adjust your scope to your original point of impact
I agree entirely with Joseph , the manner that a rifle is held will affect the point of impact . As a sub 12ftlb Spring airgun shooter ( I live in the UK) I am well aware of the changing impact points if your hold is not consistent , our lock times are an age compared to those on powder burners and the most minute twitch can change the impact point significantly even at 30 yard's , the same applies to powder burners at the longer ranges involved . Thanks Joseph , catch You next time . Shoot Straight Stay Safe & Stay Well.
Place the rifle in a vise or something similar to secure it. Pull bolt, visually center the bore on an object 50 yards in the distance. Dial reticle to the same position. That will place your shots close on paper. Shoot a 10 shot group. Calculate the average center of the group from an arbitrary x-y plane. Adjust your optic from that point to the desired POI.
I’ve used the wheeler magnetic laser bore sight half a dozen times and it’s never left me more than 6-8” off at 100 yards. I swear. It really does work and I was skeptical having just thrown away many laser bore sighters over the years. Try it. It works.
I agree with the leadsled comment. I’ve always said that to my buddies that love em. For the same reason. I also agree with the mpbr zero. Even living in the Midwest it makes to much sense for in the field simplicity, and I’ve even applied it as well as I can to my compound bow sighting. It’s worked perfectly for me so far.
My ca. 1912 .30-30 Savage Mod. 1899 straight comb sighted in @2MOA with a Marble peep sight. Took me 3 3-shot groups to get her perfectly adjusted. Not bad for a brush gun. I bought the largest 1000 yard paper target @18”x18” which was enough to catch the first shots at the bottom, as I started with the lowest setting. Gonna put a drop of paint on the elevation and windage screws to lock them.
Very good thats almost exactly how i sight in my rifles. With one caveat. I do the initial sight in with one shot at a time than i shoot a 3 shots to confirm I do this to make adjustments less hectic
I used to do service competitions with the L1A1 and then the L85A1 & A2. Never had the luxury of benches and sandbags , so it was a prone 3 rnd boresight to within 4 or 5" at 100 and then 3 more rnds for 2" high at 100 for a 300 zero. You couldnt hope for too much with a 2.0 MOA rifle and a 9LB trigger pull that would give 2 creeps before it went bang. The slings wrapped around the arm gave a good platform for most shoots which were from 50-500 yds. The introduction of the Susat sight was beneficial.
For those that use the chamber insert cartridge laser boresighters...., place electrical tape over muzzle end, pierce tape as near center of muzzle bore as you can, secure rifle solidly, place target 10 yards downrange with POI mark 1.9" below bullseye, put laser dot on that mark and move crosshairs to cover. Take one shot to confirm and move to 100 yards, send 3 rounds, take average (center of group) and set final zero (I like 1" high at 100), and reconfirm.
How precise does your scope height over bore measurement need to be? Within a half inch? Quarter? And when sighting in at the only available 25yd range, does each click equal a quarter of what it would be at 100yd? So 4 clicks at 25 would only be a quarter inch?
I guess I did it all wrong, sighting in with my new Leupold scope. I laser bore sighted and my first shot, elevation was perfect and 1.5” left. Then with my Lead Sled I centered the crosshairs on the bullseye, and moved the reticles to the hole and recentered them on the bullseye, fired using the lead sled and was dead center. I adjusted up 2” and had a 1/2” 3-shot group. I fired another 3-shot group for luck for a total of 8 shots. Then I switched ammo brand with the exact same specs and fired 3 rounds and all 3 were touching each other, 2” high at 100 yds and dead on windage. Since I bore sighted with a laser and fired on a Lead Sled should I be concerned that my rifle is totally messed up?
I would think not. Your point of impact will be a touch higher when you shoot from a bi pod or bag than what it showed when you fired from the lead sled/vice
On cheap scopes, give them a little love tap after making adjustments, before taking the next shot, to avoid chasing the point of impact with each additional adjustment.
Getting on paper is the hardest part for sure, my scope is basically a ruler to all I need to do is measure how far I'm out and adjust accordingly. Usually takes me 3 shot to zero a new gun/ scope combo
i have a little different way of going about getting center at 100 yd. (or 1 to 2 in. high if you prefer) taking in to account most scope rings are about 1 1/2 to 2 ins. above center bore i start with a target set at 25 yds. and set the scope there ( I will say at this distance the MOA values increase by 4 ..you're at 1/4 the distance of 100... just saying same thought as the farther the distance the more each click moves the shorter the distance the less it moves ).... I bore site first then set the scope for bullseye fire a shot and see where it hits at this range i'm looking for 2 ins. below center i'll adjust the scope for that and shoot again if right i move to 100 yds and see where it hits there hopefully bullseye or close then i adjust for what i want ( 2 ins. high at 100) with no problems one should be able to get sighted-in in 5 shots course this is taking into the thinking of knowing the cartridge ballistics you're shooting ...2 at 25 yds. and 3 at 100 yds. ..but it never hurts to run a few while one can... and a stable position to shoot from is a must sand bags or a gun vice.... and it goes without saying you have to have good equipment it doesn't have to break the bank but you get what you pay for...
Five shot groups are better. Every now and then factory ammo has inconsistencies. With only 3 shots, you may end up with a flyer that just moved the entire grouping the opposite direction. You adjust and the next 3 are going 3" to the tight when you adjusted it hoping to move the group 1" to the left. Ballistic calculator is a great tool. I found that zero at 28 yards with my load and rifle will put me in the kill zone (6") from zero to 350 yards and if i remember right I'm about 1.5" high at 100. A lot easier to sight in close. Then go out and see what's being printed at 100- whatever range you decide.
One thing I noticed but has escaped the crowd so far...the windage adjustment you were talking about was to the right..not left as you said. But it's good information. Just a simple mistake on direction.
I agree but I start with the same bore sighting at home. When I am cleaning it at home when I first get it I put it on my range sandbag and do roughly the same at around 20ft at home aiming for a fixed reference (2 dots) with some napkin math with listed velocity vs bore/sight axis "height over bore". Reduces time at our busy range. Also I'm curious if you are willing to do a video on dangerous game. I keep having discussions with AR kids claiming an AR with 55gr ball is adequate for wildlife defense, with the argument 55gr penetrates level 3 steel armor and "I have a 30 rounder". In my opinion steel penetration due velocity does not translate to ballistic performance with M193 fragmenting and just not reliably penetrating to stop a charging grizzly, moose, hog unless you hit their brain. Especially with large boar and bear having a decent amount of muscle in the front. I am confident 5.56 will kill, I am just not confident it won't do it reliably and in time. A lethal wound does not mean it is dead on the spot.
So Ron and company has had two opportunities, based on Ron’s video 2 weeks ago and this one. Both had gross mistakes. Maybe you are rushed with deer fever, but I do expect better.
I beat this like a dead horse online. With a bolt action gun, bore site at 25 yards - take out the bolt and you can do it visually wihout a laser or whatnot. Get on paper at 25. Figure out your desired MPBR for your cartridge and load. Interpolate that back to 50 yards (almost always about 1.75 high). Site and dial in 4 to 8 shots at 50 accordingly. Done.
Joseph mis-spoke when he said MOA is 1.47" He knows and meant to say 1.047". That means at 1,000 yards an MOA group would span 10.47 inches.
Couldn't agree more. "Do not shoot at game at distances you've never shot before."
Joseph's attempt to sound like Ron both in tone and meter is hilarious😂
I completely agree with the dual sandbag set up you are using. Been using that same set up for years. Another reason I like it, is that it is much more likely to mimic more closely your eye position for most hunting positions and it is better practice for getting off a clean shot than pulling the trigger on a gun with no recoil.
I always, if possible, look through the bore and adjust the scope to that at home. Never far off. Usually if its a new gun, by the time the barrrel is broken in everything is great!
If you have a really great rifle, 3 shots is plenty!!! Shoot your first shot, keep your rifle aimed at original point, and then adjust your scope to your original point of impact
I agree entirely with Joseph , the manner that a rifle is held will affect the point of impact . As a sub 12ftlb Spring airgun shooter ( I live in the UK) I am well aware of the changing impact points if your hold is not consistent , our lock times are an age compared to those on powder burners and the most minute twitch can change the impact point significantly even at 30 yard's , the same applies to powder burners at the longer ranges involved . Thanks Joseph , catch You next time . Shoot Straight Stay Safe & Stay Well.
Place the rifle in a vise or something similar to secure it. Pull bolt, visually center the bore on an object 50 yards in the distance. Dial reticle to the same position. That will place your shots close on paper. Shoot a 10 shot group. Calculate the average center of the group from an arbitrary x-y plane. Adjust your optic from that point to the desired POI.
Agreed, except for bore sighting. I always bore sight first to be sure it'll be on the paper, wherever that may be.
I’ve used the wheeler magnetic laser bore sight half a dozen times and it’s never left me more than 6-8” off at 100 yards. I swear. It really does work and I was skeptical having just thrown away many laser bore sighters over the years. Try it. It works.
I like the MTM K-Zone bench rest. It doesn't restrict recoil & it comes apart for pistols. Plus, it can double as a maintenance stand.
Thanks Joseph for the tutorial on sighting in our rifle scopes. Always enjoy your insight and wisdom.
I second that motion.
I agree with the leadsled comment. I’ve always said that to my buddies that love em. For the same reason. I also agree with the mpbr zero. Even living in the Midwest it makes to much sense for in the field simplicity, and I’ve even applied it as well as I can to my compound bow sighting. It’s worked perfectly for me so far.
My ca. 1912 .30-30 Savage Mod. 1899 straight comb sighted in @2MOA with a Marble peep sight. Took me 3 3-shot groups to get her perfectly adjusted. Not bad for a brush gun.
I bought the largest 1000 yard paper target @18”x18” which was enough to catch the first shots at the bottom, as I started with the lowest setting.
Gonna put a drop of paint on the elevation and windage screws to lock them.
Very good thats almost exactly how i sight in my rifles. With one caveat.
I do the initial sight in with one shot at a time than i shoot a 3 shots to confirm
I do this to make adjustments less hectic
I used to do service competitions with the L1A1 and then the L85A1 & A2. Never had the luxury of benches and sandbags , so it was a prone 3 rnd boresight to within 4 or 5" at 100 and then 3 more rnds for 2" high at 100 for a 300 zero. You couldnt hope for too much with a 2.0 MOA rifle and a 9LB trigger pull that would give 2 creeps before it went bang. The slings wrapped around the arm gave a good platform for most shoots which were from 50-500 yds. The introduction of the Susat sight was beneficial.
1. Get a good shock proof scope....
I use those foam core boards. That and wooden stakes and you can tape on targets
Sight in 1.5 inches high at 100 is a good start
This is a good video for beginners and kids 👍
6:25 you meant to say 1.047 inches not 1.47
15:56 Joseph, I swear you just told everyone to buy a leupold with their CDS turret system, and i couldn't agree more! Love the ones I've got
For those that use the chamber insert cartridge laser boresighters...., place electrical tape over muzzle end, pierce tape as near center of muzzle bore as you can, secure rifle solidly, place target 10 yards downrange with POI mark 1.9" below bullseye, put laser dot on that mark and move crosshairs to cover. Take one shot to confirm and move to 100 yards, send 3 rounds, take average (center of group) and set final zero (I like 1" high at 100), and reconfirm.
You start at 100 yards with bore sighted rifle? I usu start at 50 and sight in at 6pm on the bullseye; then move to 100. But, hey, each to his own.
Ron needs to these this is tuff to watch
1.47 inch ok creedmoore dude !
How precise does your scope height over bore measurement need to be? Within a half inch? Quarter? And when sighting in at the only available 25yd range, does each click equal a quarter of what it would be at 100yd? So 4 clicks at 25 would only be a quarter inch?
I guess I did it all wrong, sighting in with my new Leupold scope. I laser bore sighted and my first shot, elevation was perfect and 1.5” left. Then with my Lead Sled I centered the crosshairs on the bullseye, and moved the reticles to the hole and recentered them on the bullseye, fired using the lead sled and was dead center. I adjusted up 2” and had a 1/2” 3-shot group. I fired another 3-shot group for luck for a total of 8 shots. Then I switched ammo brand with the exact same specs and fired 3 rounds and all 3 were touching each other, 2” high at 100 yds and dead on windage. Since I bore sighted with a laser and fired on a Lead Sled should I be concerned that my rifle is totally messed up?
I would think not. Your point of impact will be a touch higher when you shoot from a bi pod or bag than what it showed when you fired from the lead sled/vice
@@lanecoffey1310 first time I’ve heard that it will be higher than when shooting off a rest. Thanks.
On cheap scopes, give them a little love tap after making adjustments, before taking the next shot, to avoid chasing the point of impact with each additional adjustment.
And all older scopes, id say, regardless of price.
Agreed, also helps to go extra click then back.
Also really pay attention to cold bore shots, they are your game takers.
I always either used balloons and poster board to start. Thanks for doing this one
Getting on paper is the hardest part for sure, my scope is basically a ruler to all I need to do is measure how far I'm out and adjust accordingly. Usually takes me 3 shot to zero a new gun/ scope combo
I listen to his podcast all the time. It's funny to put a face to the voice.
Lead sleds are super hard on scopes as well....
great info!
I love the looks of that rifle!
what is it if i can ask?
I zero at 100 and use a BDC reticle with wind holds.
i have a little different way of going about getting center at 100 yd. (or 1 to 2 in. high if you prefer) taking in to account most scope rings are about 1 1/2 to 2 ins. above center bore i start with a target set at 25 yds. and set the scope there ( I will say at this distance the MOA values increase by 4 ..you're at 1/4 the distance of 100... just saying same thought as the farther the distance the more each click moves the shorter the distance the less it moves ).... I bore site first then set the scope for bullseye fire a shot and see where it hits at this range i'm looking for 2 ins. below center i'll adjust the scope for that and shoot again if right i move to 100 yds and see where it hits there hopefully bullseye or close then i adjust for what i want ( 2 ins. high at 100) with no problems one should be able to get sighted-in in 5 shots course this is taking into the thinking of knowing the cartridge ballistics you're shooting ...2 at 25 yds. and 3 at 100 yds. ..but it never hurts to run a few while one can... and a stable position to shoot from is a must sand bags or a gun vice.... and it goes without saying you have to have good equipment it doesn't have to break the bank but you get what you pay for...
6:20 CORRECTION. A minute of angle at 100 yds is 1.047 inches, not 1.47 inches.
Five shot groups are better. Every now and then factory ammo has inconsistencies. With only 3 shots, you may end up with a flyer that just moved the entire grouping the opposite direction. You adjust and the next 3 are going 3" to the tight when you adjusted it hoping to move the group 1" to the left.
Ballistic calculator is a great tool. I found that zero at 28 yards with my load and rifle will put me in the kill zone (6") from zero to 350 yards and if i remember right I'm about 1.5" high at 100. A lot easier to sight in close. Then go out and see what's being printed at 100- whatever range you decide.
One thing I noticed but has escaped the crowd so far...the windage adjustment you were talking about was to the right..not left as you said. But it's good information. Just a simple mistake on direction.
I agree but I start with the same bore sighting at home. When I am cleaning it at home when I first get it I put it on my range sandbag and do roughly the same at around 20ft at home aiming for a fixed reference (2 dots) with some napkin math with listed velocity vs bore/sight axis "height over bore". Reduces time at our busy range.
Also I'm curious if you are willing to do a video on dangerous game. I keep having discussions with AR kids claiming an AR with 55gr ball is adequate for wildlife defense, with the argument 55gr penetrates level 3 steel armor and "I have a 30 rounder". In my opinion steel penetration due velocity does not translate to ballistic performance with M193 fragmenting and just not reliably penetrating to stop a charging grizzly, moose, hog unless you hit their brain. Especially with large boar and bear having a decent amount of muscle in the front. I am confident 5.56 will kill, I am just not confident it won't do it reliably and in time. A lethal wound does not mean it is dead on the spot.
Bring Ron back please.
At 06:25 you say a minute of angle is 1.47 inches at 100 yds………..but it’s really 1.047 inches at 100 yds.
Check out the difference in size of the Chronograph in this video and the new Garmin Chronograph the size of a GoPro.
I use my lead-sled as a steady position to adjust my scope. I truly hate shooting any firearm in it.
Hmm deer season prep. Time to check rifles to verify how well the gun and optics are dialed in.
You said 1 minute of angle is 1.47 inches at 100 yards. You are incorrect my friend, it is 1.047 inches. Please make note
For precision rifles, two shots are fine. Ive done just one shot and got on no problem.
1.47" is 47% larger than 1" so I probably wouldn't say it's pretty much the same. Just my 2 cents.
Can this be used to sight in my 308?
Yes
I prefer a big piece of cardboard it's free.
Huh, interesting
***1.047" big big difference. 47% vs 4.7%
1 minute of angle = 1/6oth of 360 degrees, or 1 Inch = you lost me with the 1.47 thing...
I prefer 50 yard zero..
Dude is trying so hard to sound like he sounds. Back it off 20% and you're money
So Ron and company has had two opportunities, based on Ron’s video 2 weeks ago and this one. Both had gross mistakes. Maybe you are rushed with deer fever, but I do expect better.
What is this kindergarten!
Can Joseph talk in his normal voice and not some annoying Ron wannabe voice? So annoying.
time to cancel subscription, just cant handle this FAKE..
Is this range in Idaho?
I beat this like a dead horse online. With a bolt action gun, bore site at 25 yards - take out the bolt and you can do it visually wihout a laser or whatnot. Get on paper at 25. Figure out your desired MPBR for your cartridge and load. Interpolate that back to 50 yards (almost always about 1.75 high). Site and dial in 4 to 8 shots at 50 accordingly. Done.