Thanks, Dave, for NOT forgetting us with only the 10/20 Watt Diodes! We have been with you from your start! Some of us know that technology improves over time but some of us still have our 10 & 20 Watt Diode lasers that are interested in what we can do too also. We're so happy you get the NEW Tech to review, and we are all interested. PLEASE don't forget about your original followers/subscribers that still have our old Tech Diode Lasers that have put you where you are today on RUclips.
As always another informative video on design ideas as well as reasons why the product works as well as who it’s for. Thanks as always enjoying the journey.
Hey Dave, Great video, I've been to this store KJP Select Hardwoods located in Ottawa Ontario. and it is awesome so many different varieties and colors of wood for lasers. They ship world wide and have a really great staff. I purchase a lot of my wood from them.
Thanks for the info on True Flat, I’ve ordered a couple of the sample packs. Think it will be less expensive than my current supplier and it will be doubled sided not single like I get now!
Hey, Dave, I’ve just pulled the trigger on the XTOOL P2S. I have the F1 and Ultra but I needed more space for larger items. Hopefully I’ve chosen right by staying in the XTOOL ecosystem.
@ I don’t think you have a 20 watt active in your shop but I’m curious if that stuff cuts cleanly. I have the Atomstack A20 v2 and it has been a workhorse this year for me and for now that is what I would be using on it.
Clack, have you ever had to adjust the x-axis drive belt on your Hurricane? My belt broken on my first use out of the box. So I have had to replace the drive belt. What a task.
I have a glowforge. Lightburn is not compatible, but I like the functionality in the controls. Can you create ornaments and export them to the computer to be used in any machine?
Hey David my name is Jeff Thrasher I recently bought a laser cutter and I am having trouble with lightburn would you be willing to hel. p me figure it out. I am local living in Billingsley.
MDF core.. That! explains their claim to "flatness". But I suppose you need to be careful with engraving that you don't penetrate though the veneer and hit the MDF core
I USE 3MM MDF ALL THE TIME, KIND OF A BI*** TO WORK WITH. WHITE IS HARDER TO CUT ON 10W THAN ANY COLOR AND ALSO TO CLEAN AFTER CUT, SOME STAINING ALWAYS REMAINS. PLYWOOD IS MUCH NICER TO WORK WITH BUT DOESN'T STAY AS FLAT AS MDF. I USE ATOMSTACK X40, MY SPEED IS 550 MM/M AT 80% POWER, ONE PASS FOR MDF 3MM. ALSO, BECAUSE MDF HAS A LOT OF GLUE IN IT, LASER HEAD GETS DIRTY A LOT, SO THERE IS THAT. SO IF SOMEONE HAS IDEA ON HOW TO GET FRESH AIR ONTO LASER HEAD, SO THE LASER TAKES AIR FROM OUTSIDE OF THE ENCLOSURE AND NOT DIRTY SMOKY AIR FROM THE INSIDE, PLEASE HELP OUT. I THINK SOME 3D PRINTED BRACKET AND 3 INCH HOSE CONNECTED TO THE LASER HEAD WITH INTAKE FROM THE OUTSIDE WOULD HELP, BUT THAT MIGHT BE A PROBLEM BECAUSE THE HOSE MIGHT GET STUCK AND MESS WITH HEAD TRAVEL.
@TheClackShack i have a fan that movesa about 60 m³ per hour, and i think that is not enough, so i plan to upgrade to a fan that can move 350 m³ per hour. Also i plan to streamline my airflow to go over and under honeycomb mesh and strait out Hope this works
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks, Dave, for NOT forgetting us with only the 10/20 Watt Diodes! We have been with you from your start! Some of us know that technology improves over time but some of us still have our 10 & 20 Watt Diode lasers that are interested in what we can do too also. We're so happy you get the NEW Tech to review, and we are all interested. PLEASE don't forget about your original followers/subscribers that still have our old Tech Diode Lasers that have put you where you are today on RUclips.
I try to mix it up with a lot of different machines. Thanks
Great video! Thanks Dave.
Glad you liked it!
As always another informative video on design ideas as well as reasons why the product works as well as who it’s for. Thanks as always enjoying the journey.
Thanks, glad you like it
Good job, I hope to have my laser next year.
Maybe so..
Hey Dave, Great video, I've been to this store KJP Select Hardwoods located in Ottawa Ontario. and it is awesome so many different varieties and colors of wood for lasers. They ship world wide and have a really great staff. I purchase a lot of my wood from them.
Cool
Interesting product. Ornaments are great design.
Thanks
Thanks for the info on True Flat, I’ve ordered a couple of the sample packs. Think it will be less expensive than my current supplier and it will be doubled sided not single like I get now!
It worked pretty well for these projects.. Let me know what you think.
Thanks for another good video. I hate to paint also.
Yea... Painting is terrible.. lol
I sprung for the XW Lasermatic X2 for that same reason, it seems worth paying a bit more for the extra space to work with.
More is better…
Nice job! What were those orange jigs you used to raise and hold the material?
Some 3D printed parts I made
@@TheClackShack do you sell the file?
Hey, Dave, I’ve just pulled the trigger on the XTOOL P2S. I have the F1 and Ultra but I needed more space for larger items. Hopefully I’ve chosen right by staying in the XTOOL ecosystem.
I don’t have the P2S but the upgrades they did would be nice. The P2 works well especially if you like the XCS world. You will be happy, I believe.
I may have missed it, but which glue do you prefer?
I use either tight bond wood glue or CA glue. Depending on the job
Price of this material is similar to the unfinished project panels I get from Home Depot but the shipping is painful. Thanks for all you do
Cool, glad to do it. Thanks
@ I don’t think you have a 20 watt active in your shop but I’m curious if that stuff cuts cleanly. I have the Atomstack A20 v2 and it has been a workhorse this year for me and for now that is what I would be using on it.
@@kevinjensen9817 I see no reason why it wouldn't. I cut it on the Roly running 10 watts. I used 6mm/s at 100% x4. Good cut quality and a clean drop.
@@kevinjensen9817 just cut it on my X40 on 24 watts with 1 pass at 6mm/s @100%
If you're shopping home depot, I get a 4ftx8ft 4.6mm birch plywood there. That's 32 12x12" pieces for $46. I get mine cut 16x16" and it's 18 pieces.
Clack, have you ever had to adjust the x-axis drive belt on your Hurricane? My belt broken on my first use out of the box. So I have had to replace the drive belt. What a task.
Wow.. No, I checked them when I first got it and have checked them a few times since but they have been good.
You save time which is money. Painting takes a while.
Yea, and painting is a “pain”…lol
I have a glowforge. Lightburn is not compatible, but I like the functionality in the controls. Can you create ornaments and export them to the computer to be used in any machine?
You can export files as SVG or AI files
Hey David my name is Jeff Thrasher I recently bought a laser cutter and I am having trouble with lightburn would you be willing to hel. p me figure it out. I am local living in Billingsley.
Sure, you can email me or message on FB on the business page.
is that just water your spraying to clean up pieces?
I use rubbing alcohol, it doesn’t absorb into the wood.
@@TheClackShack thank you sir appreciate your videos, tips and tricks.
Most of the time i use luan from locals $1.10 per piece (14" x 14") ,
Plain plywood is cheaper for sure
Me too but quality isn't as nice and the glue spots have been very inconsistent lately 🥲
MDF core.. That! explains their claim to "flatness". But I suppose you need to be careful with engraving that you don't penetrate though the veneer and hit the MDF core
I like the look of the MDF engraving better than the surface layer if you aren't paint filling. Either way seems to work.
It’s apparently not veneer. It faux paint or paper wood look.
I USE 3MM MDF ALL THE TIME, KIND OF A BI*** TO WORK WITH.
WHITE IS HARDER TO CUT ON 10W THAN ANY COLOR AND ALSO TO CLEAN AFTER CUT, SOME STAINING ALWAYS REMAINS.
PLYWOOD IS MUCH NICER TO WORK WITH BUT DOESN'T STAY AS FLAT AS MDF.
I USE ATOMSTACK X40, MY SPEED IS 550 MM/M AT 80% POWER, ONE PASS FOR MDF 3MM.
ALSO, BECAUSE MDF HAS A LOT OF GLUE IN IT, LASER HEAD GETS DIRTY A LOT, SO THERE IS THAT.
SO IF SOMEONE HAS IDEA ON HOW TO GET FRESH AIR ONTO LASER HEAD, SO THE LASER TAKES AIR FROM OUTSIDE OF THE ENCLOSURE AND NOT DIRTY SMOKY AIR FROM THE INSIDE, PLEASE HELP OUT.
I THINK SOME 3D PRINTED BRACKET AND 3 INCH HOSE CONNECTED TO THE LASER HEAD WITH INTAKE FROM THE OUTSIDE WOULD HELP, BUT THAT MIGHT BE A PROBLEM BECAUSE THE HOSE MIGHT GET STUCK AND MESS WITH HEAD TRAVEL.
Proper ventilation is a must in my opinion. With a fan and the right inlet, the air should stay cleaner.
@TheClackShack i have a fan that movesa about 60 m³ per hour, and i think that is not enough, so i plan to upgrade to a fan that can move 350 m³ per hour.
Also i plan to streamline my airflow to go over and under honeycomb mesh and strait out
Hope this works
Nice video, terrible music filler
I liked it..
I did too@@TheClackShack