I hope the batteries will be jammed into position somehow rather than being only lashed. Jamming heavy objects that have heavy momentum prevents them from shifting position and avoids any possibility of putting jerking pressures on the tie downs! Neat work with careful thought process will hopefully make for well made boat. Remember Joshua’s dictum, “too strong never broke”! SkipRay, Kerry, Ireland.
The second version tie-downs are good! I would chamfer the holes on both sides and leave the line on the top flexible so they can align with loads as needed. Otherwise, I agree that what you did is more robust than the screw-down hardware.
Child labour, or apprentice training. I remember helping my dad with a 16 foot lapstrake boat in the 60's, lots of bronze screws picked up from the floor.👍👍👍👌🖖 keep up your content dude.
Hello! I like your project and see all your videos. Just a suggestion for the next time: if you pass the rope through the fiberglass before to add epoxy you will get a stronger joint, that is because my suggestion reduce the peeling stress. With your method when you apply a load on the rope, the threads of fiberglass next to the rope take the most of it
I'd look into creating something more flexible or modular in how you do attachments. Things will change, using the boat will give you many ideas about how to be more efficient and new things will be added as you go. It's nice to have everything locked down per a specified item. But if it breaks or something is lost you may need to redo the tie down mounts to work with something different then planned. Great work though, looks good.
I was thinking the same thing, starting out the plan is 1 battery, but after the first overnight passage you might find an extra battery is needed to ensure you have enough power for a few days in a row with limited solar, I'm guessing there is no plan for a petrol/diesel generator.
Hey Captain. Great idea. Great use of that line. Looks like it will be plenty strong. Love the details you think of featuring in your vids. That was the perfect job for your kiddo.😊
On the fabbed tiedowns, consider weaving three strands tightly for the loops. After it dries, put a stainless add-a-link connector through the loop. Make sure the loop is big enough for the link to be removed.
The doghouse on my old boat extended forward of the beam like that, there was a small shelf at the front of the doghouse with a fiddle on the aft edge, the depth sounder was mounted there between the portholes and was a very handy little shelf for all sorts of knick knacks like sunscreen and chap sticks, shackle key and other very small light things you might need to grab when on deck that you don't want to have to go below for.
These are the details that are never mentioned on other channels. Thanks for including them. By the way I think you need to give a raise to your helper, maybe 2 tootsie rolls per peal ply is in order.
Another good one! Check out Dakota Lithium LiFePO4 batteries. American made and quality. I use them for “adventure ham radio” (outdoors in all weather conditions) and they are good. In my build I am keeping it in a Lithium Battery burn bag. LiFePO4 are MUCH safer than LiPO but can still thermal runaway. Not cool 300 miles offshore.
Did you test the adhesion of the rope with the epoxy? If the rope is nylon it will have some stretch and may break away from the glue…dacron has far less stretch. Nylon will also take up a surprising amount of water and expand a bit. The basic scheme is sound though: In fiberglass sailplanes such are made using fiberglass rovings…even critical things like the anchor points for the seat belt.
Having the rope underneath the G10 seems to makes it difficult to attach to a flat surface. I wonder if you could use some type of webbing instead of a rope in that case? Maybe it would even be strong enough just to fiberglass over the webbing, and skip the G10 altogether.
My thought exactly, Dave. I would have over-engineered the thing, like do all my projects. I would have bought a nylon lashing strap from Harbor Freight ($4) and cut into a length that would allow me to wrap around the battery with a few inches extra. Then epoxy and glass the center of the strap to the boat, leaving the ends loose. That would give me the ability to use the metal end (the cam lock part) to quickly secure or release the strap. No knots needed. But that's why I'm not building a boat and he is! Awesome progress. Can't wait to see it sail!
I love the idea of the rope around hatches and as an edge, but I fear the tie down idea may not be enough to hold the heavy items as they would be in motion even just a little with every roll. It will be interesting to see how they hold up. Still looking good.
Why not use unidirectional fibres instead of the rope? Just put your temporary spacer on the surface with a small epoxi fillet either side and lay the fibres over. Can even be used in combination with vacuumbagging. Look at composite chainplates for inspiration.
a little late but I think your original tie down idea will be superior. Seems to me the G1o will chafe the line around the holes and ultimately be harder to fix/replace when the chord breaks. IMO simpler is better. If no one has said it, get them kids on the water as soon as possible.
Yes to both. I started with plans for the Tenten 425 which can be found for sale on duckworks. I've made a lot of alterations to suit my tastes and made new drawings as a result. For example I changed the bow, moved the main bulkhead back to enlarge the cabin/shorten the cockpit, removed the cockpit footwell, etc.
Yes, it's designed to be self righting. Fresh water ballast secured down low, plus lead and steel keel, and then lots of buoyancy up high with a rounded deck.
Why use line for tie downs? It will wear and need to be replaced. Seems like it would be better to use stainless steel hooks. If they ever come loose, just drop some epoxy in, redrill and remount them.
![Kodak Black - Versatile 4 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VcP_1Ua__vY/mqdefault.jpg)
Great job getting your son in on the project!😊
I hope the batteries will be jammed into position somehow rather than being only lashed. Jamming heavy objects that have heavy momentum prevents them from shifting position and avoids any possibility of putting jerking pressures on the tie downs! Neat work with careful thought process will hopefully make for well made boat. Remember Joshua’s dictum, “too strong never broke”! SkipRay, Kerry, Ireland.
The second version tie-downs are good! I would chamfer the holes on both sides and leave the line on the top flexible so they can align with loads as needed. Otherwise, I agree that what you did is more robust than the screw-down hardware.
She's coming along beautifully!
Awesome! Glad you think so.
I’m impressed by your pronunciation of the name Yrvind 👍🏼😀
Haha, thank you, yes he taught his viewers how to say it properly in one video and I realized I'd been saying it wrong for a long time.
Your son is a very capable helper.
He's got peel ply removal down. I'll keep teaching him more 👍
Child labour, or apprentice training. I remember helping my dad with a 16 foot lapstrake boat in the 60's, lots of bronze screws picked up from the floor.👍👍👍👌🖖 keep up your content dude.
Thank you! Will do.
Every captain needs a capable First Mate! Great video . . . Great channel!
Thanks 👍
Looks good, Perry. I like that idea. 👍👍👍
Hello! I like your project and see all your videos. Just a suggestion for the next time: if you pass the rope through the fiberglass before to add epoxy you will get a stronger joint, that is because my suggestion reduce the peeling stress. With your method when you apply a load on the rope, the threads of fiberglass next to the rope take the most of it
I'd look into creating something more flexible or modular in how you do attachments. Things will change, using the boat will give you many ideas about how to be more efficient and new things will be added as you go. It's nice to have everything locked down per a specified item. But if it breaks or something is lost you may need to redo the tie down mounts to work with something different then planned. Great work though, looks good.
I was thinking the same thing, starting out the plan is 1 battery, but after the first overnight passage you might find an extra battery is needed to ensure you have enough power for a few days in a row with limited solar, I'm guessing there is no plan for a petrol/diesel generator.
You can just grind these off and stick new ones on.
Hey Captain. Great idea. Great use of that line. Looks like it will be plenty strong. Love the details you think of featuring in your vids. That was the perfect job for your kiddo.😊
Thanks 👍. I think so too.
Brilliant!
Really good idea for tie downs, going to use that for sure.
On the fabbed tiedowns, consider weaving three strands tightly for the loops. After it dries, put a stainless add-a-link connector through the loop. Make sure the loop is big enough for the link to be removed.
Good idea. You're thinking the connectors will be a smoother point for tie-down lines to be passed through, right?
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Smoother and more easy to thread line through due to being up off the hull a bit.
@@kevinhornbuckle Love it. I'm ordering some now.
He knows Sven too 👍
The doghouse on my old boat extended forward of the beam like that, there was a small shelf at the front of the doghouse with a fiddle on the aft edge, the depth sounder was mounted there between the portholes and was a very handy little shelf for all sorts of knick knacks like sunscreen and chap sticks, shackle key and other very small light things you might need to grab when on deck that you don't want to have to go below for.
Thanks, could be handy to have a little storage there.
These are the details that are never mentioned on other channels. Thanks for including them. By the way I think you need to give a raise to your helper, maybe 2 tootsie rolls per peal ply is in order.
Thanks! I'll run the raise idea past management.
Another good one! Check out Dakota Lithium LiFePO4 batteries. American made and quality. I use them for “adventure ham radio” (outdoors in all weather conditions) and they are good.
In my build I am keeping it in a Lithium Battery burn bag. LiFePO4 are MUCH safer than LiPO but can still thermal runaway. Not cool 300 miles offshore.
Also 2 is 1, 1 is none!
Sometimes 1 is enough, and 0 is "Let me come to understand why I never needed that thing in the first place." 👍😉
Coming together Nicely 👍
Your son is so eloquent for his age 👍
Thanks 👍
Looks good.
Process engineering. Smart.
Did you test the adhesion of the rope with the epoxy? If the rope is nylon it will have some stretch and may break away from the glue…dacron has far less stretch. Nylon will also take up a surprising amount of water and expand a bit. The basic scheme is sound though: In fiberglass sailplanes such are made using fiberglass rovings…even critical things like the anchor points for the seat belt.
Those tie downs should be sufficient. Looking forward to testing.
Sven Yrwind makes these epoxy-soaked tie-downs/handles in his tiny boat 🚤
Yes, I mention him in the video. He helped me out with some advice on these.
You're getting famous... even Yrvind mentioned you in a video I saw recently. :)
Yes, he gave me some advice for these tie-down mounts.
You could build the doghouse like the space stations cupola, it looks strong and cool and gives great visibility!
It'll look like the model I was holding. Portlights will be minimal since they're a weak point when getting hit with waves.
Having the rope underneath the G10 seems to makes it difficult to attach to a flat surface. I wonder if you could use some type of webbing instead of a rope in that case? Maybe it would even be strong enough just to fiberglass over the webbing, and skip the G10 altogether.
yeah, webbing is a cool idea. Might try it in the future.
My thought exactly, Dave. I would have over-engineered the thing, like do all my projects. I would have bought a nylon lashing strap from Harbor Freight ($4) and cut into a length that would allow me to wrap around the battery with a few inches extra. Then epoxy and glass the center of the strap to the boat, leaving the ends loose. That would give me the ability to use the metal end (the cam lock part) to quickly secure or release the strap. No knots needed.
But that's why I'm not building a boat and he is! Awesome progress. Can't wait to see it sail!
The downside is that glassing over webbing gives a sharp edge. Rope is curved.
Clever! 👍
I love the idea of the rope around hatches and as an edge, but I fear the tie down idea may not be enough to hold the heavy items as they would be in motion even just a little with every roll. It will be interesting to see how they hold up. Still looking good.
Thanks. I'll test them out.
Maybe do some destructive testing on these so you know what to expect from them.
Definitely plan to do some tests a little further down the line.
Why not use unidirectional fibres instead of the rope? Just put your temporary spacer on the surface with a small epoxi fillet either side and lay the fibres over. Can even be used in combination with vacuumbagging.
Look at composite chainplates for inspiration.
Algorithm Booster! ⛵
A self at the front of the dog house might be handy....
Could be, I'm thinking about it.
a little late but I think your original tie down idea will be superior. Seems to me the G1o will chafe the line around the holes and ultimately be harder to fix/replace when the chord breaks. IMO simpler is better. If no one has said it, get them kids on the water as soon as possible.
Hello. congratulations! did this project already exist, or did you create the drawings? can i find these plans for sale?
Yes to both. I started with plans for the Tenten 425 which can be found for sale on duckworks. I've made a lot of alterations to suit my tastes and made new drawings as a result. For example I changed the bow, moved the main bulkhead back to enlarge the cabin/shorten the cockpit, removed the cockpit footwell, etc.
Are you going of a plan to build this boat? Is it self righting?
Yes, it's designed to be self righting. Fresh water ballast secured down low, plus lead and steel keel, and then lots of buoyancy up high with a rounded deck.
hi
wish you best
how thick is the foam you are using for the hull?
1cm.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat thank you
How big of a solar array is it going to have? also with the smaller dog house can you put in a bigger pannel?
Room for a solar panel forward of the dog house and probably 2 more on the arch over the stern. I'll get as much power as I can from those areas.
When you are editing your videos, why do you continue the opening sound effects and then music as you talk?
I like music. Though when speaking I try to set it really low volume.
Why use line for tie downs? It will wear and need to be replaced. Seems like it would be better to use stainless steel hooks. If they ever come loose, just drop some epoxy in, redrill and remount them.