Sorry for the long break between uploads. I was taken by the plague a few times. I'm back although also dealing with school so hopefully I should resume catching the channel up to date. I also tried some new things with editing which i think came out alright although my laptop didn't enjoy the process.
O-rings as belts is so annoying. I used them as weapon pulley in my fairy, and they slipped so bad. Now I use 3M toothed pulleys made of TPU, with the belt being a 6mm wide belt I cut in half lengthwise to make a 3mm belt. I have no idea how to make it accessible for drive. Maybe print an S3M belt out of TPU, but only 2mm wide?
Tell me about it... Three events in and I've finally done an entire event without losing a belt... Toothed sounds good, transmits torque through the teeth rather than friction so would probably be a bit more forgiving for tension
I've used o-ring belts for drive for a while now in my 150g bots. The belt tension is absolutely critical and small variations will have a huge impact. For a 75mm circumference belt I found a 2mm change in length was noticeable. I still haven't got a formula or rule figured out for the optimal tension, but highly recommend making 10 different sizes and testing them all just to see if you can find a tension that works best because when it is dialled in they work amazingly well.
Yeah I think my "method" extends as far as loosely wrap the cord around where it has to go, pull it taught, go "a smidge" (scientific terms I know) further than that and that's a good place to start testing and shortening
Wow! A 4-wheel-drive horizontal? This is the coolest! I love how far this robot has come already.
Thanks! I really like it too. The only thing it really compromises on are thagomizer style hits but that's a fair trade
Sorry for the long break between uploads. I was taken by the plague a few times.
I'm back although also dealing with school so hopefully I should resume catching the channel up to date. I also tried some new things with editing which i think came out alright although my laptop didn't enjoy the process.
Truly horrific, absolutely amazing
I love that it looks like the CSGO claw :)
Haha I wasn't familiar but yes I did think it bore resemblances to a talon
Good stuff, swanky animations too
Haha thanks
Originally tried to do a 'stuff made here' type explainer thing but drifted from that as I went
Excited for the next one. :)
´
Awesome video as always. Keep it up!
Noice.
O-rings as belts is so annoying. I used them as weapon pulley in my fairy, and they slipped so bad. Now I use 3M toothed pulleys made of TPU, with the belt being a 6mm wide belt I cut in half lengthwise to make a 3mm belt. I have no idea how to make it accessible for drive. Maybe print an S3M belt out of TPU, but only 2mm wide?
Tell me about it... Three events in and I've finally done an entire event without losing a belt... Toothed sounds good, transmits torque through the teeth rather than friction so would probably be a bit more forgiving for tension
I've used o-ring belts for drive for a while now in my 150g bots. The belt tension is absolutely critical and small variations will have a huge impact. For a 75mm circumference belt I found a 2mm change in length was noticeable.
I still haven't got a formula or rule figured out for the optimal tension, but highly recommend making 10 different sizes and testing them all just to see if you can find a tension that works best because when it is dialled in they work amazingly well.
Yeah I think my "method" extends as far as loosely wrap the cord around where it has to go, pull it taught, go "a smidge" (scientific terms I know) further than that and that's a good place to start testing and shortening
Nice! Whats the name of the board you changed to? I cant seem to find it
It's the "ant controller board" based off of the malenki but much cheaper from llamaforge which is an Australian parts supplier
@engineered_cha0s nice! I'll have to look at it
Is your weapon press fit onto the motor
Y&D has the rotor of the motor sanded and then jb-welded to the blade. I rest the blade on Lego bricks to make sure it's level