This was THE best video on the topic. I have watched a lot that cover thermostat but I wanted to full picture which included the furnace controller card. This video was the best as I am an electrical engineer (not an HVAC expert or even an electrician) but I was going nuts not understanding how the 24 VAC closed the circuit. Nobody else explained it but this guy did! Now I feel confident rewiring my 50 year old house with labeled wiring for a tech or the next home owner. Thank you!
Mike, You are an excellent teacher. I am an electrical engineer but you made it a piece of cake to understand everything that is there to be learned about HVAC wiring in under 12 mins without any fluff or BS. I am surprised you just have 2.42K subscribers. More people can benefit from your top notch content. Thanks a bunch for putting this out
For 2 weeks a problem lingered on my AC that no technitians could find out whats was wrong. After watching this video, I found the issue in 5 min. Misinstalled wireing. Thank you for a great video.
Excellent video saved my ex gf $900 service call by reinforcing a reassuring my logic. I was able to DIY her repair based on your clear and concise information. Thanks!
You made this simple and easy to understand! I have units with blue wire running to yellow and float switch wiring wired to the condenser instead of the 24v red etc….this cleared it all up and made my day! thank you sir!
Your explanation was very clear. I worked part time with an electrician for six years. When I look inside my air handler it looks like a big jumble of wires. You made it very easy to understand. It’s just a bunch of different circuits. Great job! Best yet!
I’m a new HVAC installer and have only been employed by a company despite not having any sort of schooling or knowledge about anything, After a month of practice I am able to do everything i need to help out my leads, but have been struggling to understand what each low voltage wire does and I feel significantly more comfortable with it after this video. It was very clear and helpful. Thanks man
Mike, I want to thank you very much I graduated from HVAC School back in 2020 and then pandemic first started so I never really got any on hands experience especially with the wiring however, thanks to your explanation of basic wiring. You opened up a whole new door for me. Thank you Marc Seraphin oh, Seraphins emergency air
Hey mate..for more learning..look up taddy HVAC . He has great video and is a great tech teacher..I'm a HVAC grad.and same story with me.i grad in 2019 and pan hot..so I been learning..he also has a subscription channel for more learning..best twenty bucks you will ever spend..I promise
You made this easy to understand, I watched this video because I need to install a safe T switch and I need to identify circuit R. I had drain pipe clog that spilled water to my sheet rock. I want the switch to shutdown the unit for me when I am not home or to avoid water damage.
One awesome explanation on "HVAC theory and operation" for us "newbies or DIYers" like nothing I've ever seen before on RUclips......many thanks to "Jersey Mike's channel" here in providing real world experience and knowledge to this trade here.....much appreciated!!!!!!
Thanks man, a control wire had popped off my circuit board for the outdoor condenser and your video helped me to quickly put it back where it belonged on the common terminal. Also de-mystified the color code confusion overall👍👍
I've watched hundreds of videos this one by far is so far above and better than any of them it's unreal thank you so much I wish I would have found this video first thanks again
Best simplified explanation! Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Keep up the good work, and keep the videos coming! I would greatly appreciate it if you could make a video on how to hand fabricate a seamless drain pan, and how to wire a condensate pump into the alarm system so the float switch shuts down the unit if the drain pan gets wet.
I need a little clarity. Are you asking how to wire both a safety switch in a condensate pump and a float switch in a drain pan together into the control wiring to shut down cooling if either one is activated?
It would be the same as wiring a float switch as I described in the video. One end wired to R terminal at the control board, other end running up to R terminal at tstat (to shut down everything). Or you can use Y terminals at the board and tstat instead (to shut down just cooling) If it's a 90% furnace that generates water you can even do the same with the W terminals (to shut down heating). Few different ways to do it.
Print this chart and check both ends before you DIY to be sure the installation tech wired it this way, some use their own wiring preference to prevent home owners from working on it. Causes more damage THEY will benefit from in the end and being they are legal HVAC certified and homeowners are not a court will side with the tech. Like the video great wiring diagram layout to help.
woke up to find out my heat never turned on, after watching some vids i found the low boltage fuse popped, replaced and still pops only on heat, trying to find out where the short is, this video is definitely the easiest to understand, within seconds of looking at the picture i was figuring out how it works. Thank You. hope i can fix my problem with the new knowledge.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC after 3 days of trying to figure it out i cant. no wires are exposed everything looks good. just blows fuse on heat, have been using ac fine. im trying to figure this out cause its for my mother and she cant afford to have a tech come out and look at it. ive learned a ton so far but cant fiigure it out.
@@wrench If it's just on the call for heat, it most likely has something to do with the wire between the W terminal on the thermostat and the W terminal inside of the furnace. Do you have any extra wires available on that thermostat wire bundle? Maybe a blue wire unused? If so, disconnect the wire from both W terminals at the furnace and thermostat and reconnect the new wire to the W terminals at the stat and the furnace. See if that resolves the issue.
Thank you Mike for this excellent and detailed explanation of the various wiring options. Do you have a video specific to duct smoke detector wiring system ?
This is good 👍 I got 5 years on really experienced with gas furnaces ( wiring is easy ) started with a new company that does a lot of air handlers an some times wiring is crazy specially when the last person splices a lot of different wires together
Best case of a so called union trained HVAC guy they called the filter king because it was the only job he couldn't screw up. He installed a maybe 5 ton AC unit in an office. He was so proud if himself he had the office manager watch him turn the unit in for the first time. Some how the filter king had the red wire going to the T stat connected to a 480 volt leg. Left a 4' high burn mark.on the wall.
"Some how the filter king had the red wire going to the T stat connected to a 480 volt leg" Lol. I have SO many questions right now. I get on my guys for not doing a drain assembly just right. How is this guy not tied down to something right now?
In the configuration shown, Y is jumped to G in the air handler. What prevents cooling from kicking on if you switch the stat to fan only? Seems to me it would close the circuit to Y in the air handler? Also, I am looking to connect my condensers to the load shed module in my generac standby generator transfer switch. I will break the red wire at the condenser where it connects to the contactor. I think this would shed only the condenser and not the air handler, correct? This video was very informative. Thank you.
Hey Mike, Love all your videos! You have a knack of explaining things so even a DIY'er can understand your logic. I was wondering if you could do a video on using HVAC gauges on a condenser to measure pressure on an R410 system. I understand how to read the gauges but I'm not sure how to tell if the system needs charging, is over charged, or some other issue. Again thanks for the videos...Leo C
great diagram and explanation. Can you explain the jumper from Y to G on the air handler though? I have the same setup. (no G wire connection from thermostat to air handler, but Y to G is jumpered on the air handler). My understanding is, when cooling is activated, it will automatically turn the fan on. and my gas furnace doesn't need a seperate fan on command from the thermostat because it controls it though the circuit in the background.
The Y terminal on control boards sometimes initiates a fan speed, even though the fan signal comes in on G from the thermostat. So if just G is powered, the fan will run at a low speed. If Y is powered the fan will run at a higher stage. Some systems do not even need the G signal and initiate the blower solely off of Y. So there are differences out there. You are correct with heating. The board initiates the fan independently off of a W signal regardless of G signal from T-stat, as the blower comes on as the final step of a furnace start up and so needs to be delayed. (editied for spelling)
An Former Jersey man here. What a great video! Could you please help me out. I just installed a MrCool 36K hyper heat system. It is working fine, with the thermostat that came with the unit, (its only a 2 wire setup). Question is I would like to use my nest thermostat with the new unit. Would you please tell me how to connect the wires up. I don’t want to screw this up, by guessing it. Thank you so much, if you can help me.
Thank you for this helpful video. The only thing that I find confusing is the direct connection from the 110 Volt panel to the blower motor. This suggests that the blower motor is always on. Shouldn’t there be a relay in between that is controlled via a 24 V signal? Thanks again!
Yes, sir. There are always relays of some kind. When I made this video the focus was more or less on low voltage field wiring. I've made other videos since going deeper into the details with factory wiring and schematics. Glad the video helped!
You just solved mt issue . What happens to w once it leads to the air handler but its what activates the PCB to run heat . So W always needs a wire if its for heat. Especially for a reversing vaule
In a heat pump system, W activates the backup heat, in most cases this is going to be heat strips, but could be a furnace or a boiler. This terminal should only turn on heat during defrost cycles or when the heat pump system cannot generate enough heat on its own to reach demand (such as during a big temp difference between room temp and set point).
Whenever I get a new guy I like to sit down with him and ask him to draw me a ladder diagram including all voltages and terminal designations and ask him to explain the sequence of operation for a piece of equipment we are working on, it weeds out the guys who can walk the walk.
All your videos are great and helping me get familiar with troubleshooting. What company do you work for? I am currently enrolled in the apprenticeship program and in desperate need of a starting HVAC position.
Great Videos. I got into installing a NEST ans it was not as simple as they say. Gland I found your videos. BUT I dont have the answer. The Nest was installed as best I could it run a test and worked well on cool Then, after . UNTIL i installed the goggle app the display showed Cool but air was blowing hot? I reverted to the old thermostat all is working as it did before.
Thankyou jersey mike for cutting all the bullshit and explaining what I need to know from the start.i love you man you saved my ass with my old lady and the landlord.thank you thank you thankyou.everyone this guy is the shiznit.sorry about the language but I do believe it is verifiably warranted.god bless you jersey mike HVAC.
Breaking Y is perfectly acceptable, but I have a tendency to break R instead. The reason why is because on a straight cool system, all that breaking Y really does is shut down the outdoor unit. Blower will still run inside. And in many cases, customers don't realize their AC is not working when they can still hear it running. It takes hours for them to realize it. Then they're calling you at 5 pm and want you to come immediately. Breaking R shuts it all down and customers will catch it sooner. Another reason I go with R is because sometimes I have other parts of the system generating water even when cooling mode is not activated, like a 90% condensing furnace, or a humidifier... breaking Y won't catch those leaks because those components aren't using Y signals to function. The only time I see breaking Y as preferable is if the system is an 80% furnace with AC attached to it. In this case, if Y is broken, the heating can still be operational, where breaking R in this case would disable both heating and cooling. This is a bigger deal during those times of the year where both AC and heating may be used, where temperature swings from day to night can be drastic enough for heat and AC to be utilized on the same day.
Yes you can do it like that, unless you have anything else that makes water going to that pump, like a 90% furnace or humidifier, then going to the red 24 v wire would be better.
Around 8:08 you mention wiring in different switches, devices. At what point, if any is too much to pop the fuse, cause a lockout or even experience drops in amps or volts; again if even possible any? 2: The red hot comes in at 24 volts but does it reduce voltage as it ties into each separate terminal? Tks. I wish I could donate on your site somewhere.
I have common wire coming out of the wall .but I don't have a common wire on my thermostat? Is there another place I can connect the common wire to make the thermostat work?
Love your drawing, can you draw a drawing with a heat pump. I have an issue where I have a heat strip that comes on and the system goes down, I don’t think my bleeder is moving enough air and it’s overheating, the three strip elements may be too much heat tripping the sensors
Had a technician say a low voltage wire (brown wire) was short circuiting. Would that mean if we dont use the brown wire and use a different one (not currently being used) that would eliminate the issue?
Hey Mike, love your videos. Got a question for you. Have you ever used a decade resistance box to bypass a temp sensor temporarily? If so, how would you wire that in as most temp sensors just go to a board or t stat
Can't say I ever have. In most cases I have just disconnected the wires from the stat or board. Had a combi boiler recently (Triangle Tube I believe), where I just changed the programming to deactivate the remote sensor, so didn't even have to disconnect the wires. Don't believe temp sensors offer up much resistance anyway. Don't want to say with certainty, but alligator clips might even work.
thanks! new too hvac. install / changeout helper. this is gonna help me so much. smoke detector work the same as a float switch? how would u wire in a smoke detector in as well as a float switch. I can get the answers from work but the more I learn on my own the better I look (yes I should probably know this)
It would be better to learn that at work. Most companies stick with one or two particular brands and styles of accessories, where as there can be dozens of different types out on the market that may be wired differently from one another. Two different guys can also wire the same thing in different ways. All accessory items come with instructions and wiring diagrams. A good way to learn is to grab these manuals after an install is done and keep them to read and for reference. You don't have to memorize it all just figure out one wire at a time, what it does, where it goes, etc The next time that accessory item is being wired in, try to pick out that one wire. Once comfortable with that, move on to learn another wire, and so on.
No BS, no annoying songs, no small talks. Just plain, straight and excellent explanation
This was THE best video on the topic. I have watched a lot that cover thermostat but I wanted to full picture which included the furnace controller card. This video was the best as I am an electrical engineer (not an HVAC expert or even an electrician) but I was going nuts not understanding how the 24 VAC closed the circuit. Nobody else explained it but this guy did! Now I feel confident rewiring my 50 year old house with labeled wiring for a tech or the next home owner. Thank you!
Nice. Glad it helped!
This man is a dr in hvac. After 20 videos hands down this is the best. What a pro
Well thank you.
Mike, You are an excellent teacher. I am an electrical engineer but you made it a piece of cake to understand everything that is there to be learned about HVAC wiring in under 12 mins without any fluff or BS. I am surprised you just have 2.42K subscribers. More people can benefit from your top notch content. Thanks a bunch for putting this out
Thanks for the feedback. Really appreciate it!
Ditto!! Don’t need colors just the schematic and mike nails it!!
For 2 weeks a problem lingered on my AC that no technitians could find out whats was wrong. After watching this video, I found the issue in 5 min. Misinstalled wireing. Thank you for a great video.
Great to hear!
Excellent video saved my ex gf $900 service call by reinforcing a reassuring my logic. I was able to DIY her repair based on your clear and concise information. Thanks!
You made this simple and easy to understand! I have units with blue wire running to yellow and float switch wiring wired to the condenser instead of the 24v red etc….this cleared it all up and made my day! thank you sir!
Sir you’ve given me the perfect knowledge for the lab exam I have tomorrow on this topic. I’m going to do so well thanks to you 🙏
Most welcome. Did you pass?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC I did! Thanks again!
Your explanation was very clear. I worked part time with an electrician for six years. When I look inside my air handler it looks like a big jumble of wires. You made it very easy to understand. It’s just a bunch of different circuits. Great job! Best yet!
I’m a new HVAC installer and have only been employed by a company despite not having any sort of schooling or knowledge about anything, After a month of practice I am able to do everything i need to help out my leads, but have been struggling to understand what each low voltage wire does and I feel significantly more comfortable with it after this video. It was very clear and helpful. Thanks man
Mike, I want to thank you very much I graduated from HVAC School back in 2020 and then pandemic first started so I never really got any on hands experience especially with the wiring however, thanks to your explanation of basic wiring. You opened up a whole new door for me. Thank you Marc Seraphin oh, Seraphins emergency air
You're welcome brother
Hey mate..for more learning..look up taddy HVAC . He has great video and is a great tech teacher..I'm a HVAC grad.and same story with me.i grad in 2019 and pan hot..so I been learning..he also has a subscription channel for more learning..best twenty bucks you will ever spend..I promise
Plain and straight forward explanation. Well demonstrated and detailed
Thank you
This is by far the best overview of the low voltage wiring . By far! Thanks a bunch
Vrey good good bacl all
Really appreciate the videos and this one in particular! Really helps newer guys like me with a really straight forward explanation.
No problem.
You made this easy to understand, I watched this video because I need to install a safe T switch and I need to identify circuit R. I had drain pipe clog that spilled water to my sheet rock. I want the switch to shutdown the unit for me when I am not home or to avoid water damage.
One awesome explanation on "HVAC theory and operation" for us "newbies or DIYers" like nothing I've ever seen before on RUclips......many thanks to "Jersey Mike's channel" here in providing real world experience and knowledge to this trade here.....much appreciated!!!!!!
Thank you, brother.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Your very welcome!
You are an amazing Teacher. All the best
Thank yoy
I’m getting ready to start school for hvac. This was really helpful. Thank you !! I’m ready to start. Super nervous but ready to get my career going !
Glad it helps! Good luck!
Your are the best you made so simple i could fix my hvac as home owner much respect
Glad I could help
Thanks man, a control wire had popped off my circuit board for the outdoor condenser and your video helped me to quickly put it back where it belonged on the common terminal. Also de-mystified the color code confusion overall👍👍
Jersey Mike , thankx. This was a perfect lesson that you made so easy to understand. You deserve a big thumb 👍 brother.
I've watched hundreds of videos this one by far is so far above and better than any of them it's unreal thank you so much I wish I would have found this video first thanks again
Thanks for the feedback, brother!
Great explanation, Mike!
Currently troubleshooting an issue. This is gonna make my life a lot easier.
Thank you kindly, sir.
Anytime. Thanks.
You are a great teacher. Respect for you my man
I appreciate that!
Just new coming in this world of HVAC. I can already tell the information on this video is going to keep me a step ahead of peers! Gem indeed!
Vrey good bacical
Super Basic but VERY Informative. Thanks much for the upload
Thanks I just graduated from tech school and will be starting a new job I've been struggling with the low voltage part but this helped
Finally. It finally makes sense. THANK YOU.
Youre welcome
Very straight forward, very understandable
Best simplified explanation! Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Keep up the good work, and keep the videos coming! I would greatly appreciate it if you could make a video on how to hand fabricate a seamless drain pan, and how to wire a condensate pump into the alarm system so the float switch shuts down the unit if the drain pan gets wet.
I need a little clarity. Are you asking how to wire both a safety switch in a condensate pump and a float switch in a drain pan together into the control wiring to shut down cooling if either one is activated?
It would be the same as wiring a float switch as I described in the video.
One end wired to R terminal at the control board, other end running up to R terminal at tstat (to shut down everything). Or you can use Y terminals at the board and tstat instead (to shut down just cooling) If it's a 90% furnace that generates water you can even do the same with the W terminals (to shut down heating). Few different ways to do it.
Print this chart and check both ends before you DIY to be sure the installation tech wired it this way, some use their own wiring preference to prevent home owners from working on it. Causes more damage THEY will benefit from in the end and being they are legal HVAC certified and homeowners are not a court will side with the tech. Like the video great wiring diagram layout to help.
Brother, your diagrams look so good!
Thank you!
Great low voltage video , good job!
woke up to find out my heat never turned on, after watching some vids i found the low boltage fuse popped, replaced and still pops only on heat, trying to find out where the short is, this video is definitely the easiest to understand, within seconds of looking at the picture i was figuring out how it works. Thank You. hope i can fix my problem with the new knowledge.
No problem. Let me know if you find it.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC after 3 days of trying to figure it out i cant. no wires are exposed everything looks good. just blows fuse on heat, have been using ac fine. im trying to figure this out cause its for my mother and she cant afford to have a tech come out and look at it. ive learned a ton so far but cant fiigure it out.
@@wrench If it's just on the call for heat, it most likely has something to do with the wire between the W terminal on the thermostat and the W terminal inside of the furnace.
Do you have any extra wires available on that thermostat wire bundle? Maybe a blue wire unused? If so, disconnect the wire from both W terminals at the furnace and thermostat and reconnect the new wire to the W terminals at the stat and the furnace. See if that resolves the issue.
Hey man thanks for the upload I'm in my G2 class right now and I'm really struggling with the schematic and ladder diagrams. Thanks a bunch
You made a light bulb go off. Thank you.
Thank you Mike for this excellent and detailed explanation of the various wiring options. Do you have a video specific to duct smoke detector wiring system ?
Haven't made one yet. Don't do a lot of those myself.
This is good 👍 I got 5 years on really experienced with gas furnaces ( wiring is easy ) started with a new company that does a lot of air handlers an some times wiring is crazy specially when the last person splices a lot of different wires together
Best case of a so called union trained HVAC guy they called the filter king because it was the only job he couldn't screw up. He installed a maybe 5 ton AC unit in an office. He was so proud if himself he had the office manager watch him turn the unit in for the first time. Some how the filter king had the red wire going to the T stat connected to a 480 volt leg. Left a 4' high burn mark.on the wall.
"Some how the filter king had the red wire going to the T stat connected to a 480 volt leg"
Lol. I have SO many questions right now. I get on my guys for not doing a drain assembly just right. How is this guy not tied down to something right now?
This is super helpfull, easy and understand
Thank you for the knowledge brother much appreciated
Plainly put. Good job!
I'm going to draw this out several times until I can do it by thinking it through
Thank you so much for the amazing explanation!!!
You're welcome
Jersey Mike's do you deliver......I had to....😮.... Great video Sir.... Thanks 🙏👍
your good! Real good teacher. thank you
Nice description man.
Thank you
Great explanation thank you Mike.
Thanks so much, nice schematic drawing and very educational.
Nicely though out tutorial..thanks mate
Thanks for the big help 🙏
This video is amazing!!!!😊
In the configuration shown, Y is jumped to G in the air handler. What prevents cooling from kicking on if you switch the stat to fan only? Seems to me it would close the circuit to Y in the air handler?
Also, I am looking to connect my condensers to the load shed module in my generac standby generator transfer switch. I will break the red wire at the condenser where it connects to the contactor. I think this would shed only the condenser and not the air handler, correct?
This video was very informative. Thank you.
Hey Mike, Love all your videos! You have a knack of explaining things so even a DIY'er can understand your logic. I was wondering if you could do a video on using HVAC gauges on a condenser to measure pressure on an R410 system. I understand how to read the gauges but I'm not sure how to tell if the system needs charging, is over charged, or some other issue. Again thanks for the videos...Leo C
Give this one a try. ruclips.net/video/VG7ygGg6xvg/видео.html
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thanks again!
Very good explanation. Best I have heard so for
Excellent explanation! Subscribed your channel
Thank you!
great diagram and explanation. Can you explain the jumper from Y to G on the air handler though? I have the same setup. (no G wire connection from thermostat to air handler, but Y to G is jumpered on the air handler). My understanding is, when cooling is activated, it will automatically turn the fan on. and my gas furnace doesn't need a seperate fan on command from the thermostat because it controls it though the circuit in the background.
The Y terminal on control boards sometimes initiates a fan speed, even though the fan signal comes in on G from the thermostat. So if just G is powered, the fan will run at a low speed. If Y is powered the fan will run at a higher stage. Some systems do not even need the G signal and initiate the blower solely off of Y. So there are differences out there.
You are correct with heating. The board initiates the fan independently off of a W signal regardless of G signal from T-stat, as the blower comes on as the final step of a furnace start up and so needs to be delayed.
(editied for spelling)
Thank for putting a plain spin on a confessing topic.
I got light bulbs going off in my head right now
Thank you sir You explained very nicely
You are welcome
Great video! I'm going up on my prices!!!!
Great explanation ! 👍🏼
Thank you! 👍
An Former Jersey man here. What a great video! Could you please help me out. I just installed a MrCool 36K hyper heat system. It is working fine, with the thermostat that came with the unit, (its only a 2 wire setup). Question is I would like to use my nest thermostat with the new unit. Would you please tell me how to connect the wires up. I don’t want to screw this up, by guessing it. Thank you so much, if you can help me.
Thank you so much. I appreciate this content a lot.
Thank you for this helpful video. The only thing that I find confusing is the direct connection from the 110 Volt panel to the blower motor. This suggests that the blower motor is always on. Shouldn’t there be a relay in between that is controlled via a 24 V signal? Thanks again!
Yes, sir. There are always relays of some kind. When I made this video the focus was more or less on low voltage field wiring. I've made other videos since going deeper into the details with factory wiring and schematics. Glad the video helped!
Great video
You just solved mt issue .
What happens to w once it leads to the air handler but its what activates the PCB to run heat . So W always needs a wire if its for heat. Especially for a reversing vaule
In a heat pump system, W activates the backup heat, in most cases this is going to be heat strips, but could be a furnace or a boiler. This terminal should only turn on heat during defrost cycles or when the heat pump system cannot generate enough heat on its own to reach demand (such as during a big temp difference between room temp and set point).
@@JerseyMikeHVAC i see. Thank you
Great education video! Liked and subbed!
Big thanks
Great explanation.
Whenever I get a new guy I like to sit down with him and ask him to draw me a ladder diagram including all voltages and terminal designations and ask him to explain the sequence of operation for a piece of equipment we are working on, it weeds out the guys who can walk the walk.
Would you be willing to teach them?
Good moring evrey bedy welcomed
All your videos are great and helping me get familiar with troubleshooting.
What company do you work for? I am currently enrolled in the apprenticeship program and in desperate need of a starting HVAC position.
I'm out in Indiana now working for a company in Fort Wayne.
Great video man
Appreciate it
Great Videos. I got into installing a NEST ans it was not as simple as they say. Gland I found your videos. BUT I dont have the answer. The Nest was installed as best I could it run a test and worked well on cool Then, after . UNTIL i installed the goggle app the display showed Cool but air was blowing hot? I reverted to the old thermostat all is working as it did before.
Great video!!!
Gracias por compartir, I appreciate it
awesome brother ty
Informative, thank you.
Very nice! 😊
Thank you! Cheers!
Concise!
super helpful thank you.
You're welcome
Vry nicely thankyou my brethers
Thanks for sharing this videos really appreciate 💪🙏♥️🙏🙏
No problem 👍
great explanation, thank you
Thankyou jersey mike for cutting all the bullshit and explaining what I need to know from the start.i love you man you saved my ass with my old lady and the landlord.thank you thank you thankyou.everyone this guy is the shiznit.sorry about the language but I do believe it is verifiably warranted.god bless you jersey mike HVAC.
Thank you so much!
Really helpful. Thank you👍
Sounds if breaking Y(yellow) wire would be good method with float switch?
Is this way u would wire?
Great explanation with video.
Breaking Y is perfectly acceptable, but I have a tendency to break R instead. The reason why is because on a straight cool system, all that breaking Y really does is shut down the outdoor unit. Blower will still run inside. And in many cases, customers don't realize their AC is not working when they can still hear it running. It takes hours for them to realize it. Then they're calling you at 5 pm and want you to come immediately. Breaking R shuts it all down and customers will catch it sooner.
Another reason I go with R is because sometimes I have other parts of the system generating water even when cooling mode is not activated, like a 90% condensing furnace, or a humidifier... breaking Y won't catch those leaks because those components aren't using Y signals to function.
The only time I see breaking Y as preferable is if the system is an 80% furnace with AC attached to it. In this case, if Y is broken, the heating can still be operational, where breaking R in this case would disable both heating and cooling. This is a bigger deal during those times of the year where both AC and heating may be used, where temperature swings from day to night can be drastic enough for heat and AC to be utilized on the same day.
Thanks man
Mike you would wire the Safety Switch from the Condensate Removal Pump to the yellow wire on your thermostat. Correct?
Yes you can do it like that, unless you have anything else that makes water going to that pump, like a 90% furnace or humidifier, then going to the red 24 v wire would be better.
Around 8:08 you mention wiring in different switches, devices. At what point, if any is too much to pop the fuse, cause a lockout or even experience drops in amps or volts; again if even possible any? 2: The red hot comes in at 24 volts but does it reduce voltage as it ties into each separate terminal? Tks. I wish I could donate on your site somewhere.
I have common wire coming out of the wall .but I don't have a common wire on my thermostat? Is there another place I can connect the common wire to make the thermostat work?
Love your drawing, can you draw a drawing with a heat pump. I have an issue where I have a heat strip that comes on and the system goes down, I don’t think my bleeder is moving enough air and it’s overheating, the three strip elements may be too much heat tripping the sensors
I recently did a few videos on heat strips and heat pump wiring, all fairly recent in my library with drawing of circuits in each.
Had a technician say a low voltage wire (brown wire) was short circuiting. Would that mean if we dont use the brown wire and use a different one (not currently being used) that would eliminate the issue?
Yes that usually corrects the issue.
@9:19 YOU CAN PLAY WITH THIS THING HOWEVER YOU WANT TO!
awesome, thank you!
Appreciate this, thank you
Thanks 👍
Welcome 👍
Got the Low Voltage down pat but you need some Training in the Portrait vs Landscape mode.
Ty 👍
Hey Mike, love your videos. Got a question for you.
Have you ever used a decade resistance box to bypass a temp sensor temporarily?
If so, how would you wire that in as most temp sensors just go to a board or t stat
Can't say I ever have. In most cases I have just disconnected the wires from the stat or board. Had a combi boiler recently (Triangle Tube I believe), where I just changed the programming to deactivate the remote sensor, so didn't even have to disconnect the wires.
Don't believe temp sensors offer up much resistance anyway. Don't want to say with certainty, but alligator clips might even work.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC thanks mike!
thanks! new too hvac. install / changeout helper. this is gonna help me so much. smoke detector work the same as a float switch? how would u wire in a smoke detector in as well as a float switch. I can get the answers from work but the more I learn on my own the better I look (yes I should probably know this)
It would be better to learn that at work. Most companies stick with one or two particular brands and styles of accessories, where as there can be dozens of different types out on the market that may be wired differently from one another. Two different guys can also wire the same thing in different ways.
All accessory items come with instructions and wiring diagrams. A good way to learn is to grab these manuals after an install is done and keep them to read and for reference.
You don't have to memorize it all just figure out one wire at a time, what it does, where it goes, etc The next time that accessory item is being wired in, try to pick out that one wire. Once comfortable with that, move on to learn another wire, and so on.