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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- ******** WARNING**********
We have discovered that HF sells at least three different model numbers of this exact same bench. The subject was edited to apply to the one that is being shown in this video. We bought a second bench which had a different model number and the drawers and the center support appear to be different and have a much tighter feel. Based on comments the rails shown in this video will likely not work on other models.
******** WARNING**********
After recently buying a second bench it has come to my attention that Harbor Freight Sells different model numbers of this bench. We adjusted the title to reflect that. I originally thought it was a redesign but apparently they still build and sell multiple model numbers under the same name. Stay tuned for a comparison video of the two models.
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In the first video, I mentioned that I didn't like the drawer rails in the work bench that were included in with the work bench. So in this episode, I upgraded the drawer rails in the Harbor Freight 'Windsor Design' Workbench. I found new 14 inch rails at Lowe's for about $36 that were both more solid and allowed the drawer to open wider. It also solved the problem of one of my drawers dragging on the sides, although this was not expected.
This video: #62603 - Harbor Freight 'Windsor Design' Workbench - Part 2 - Drawer Rail Upgrade : • #62603 - Harbor Freigh...
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LIKEITORNOTYT puts together Harbor Freight 'Windsor Design" Workbench
• #62603 - Harbor Freigh...
These are the rails used to upgrade the workbench in Part 2:
www.lowes.com/...
This is the Harbor Freight 'Windsor Design' Workbench:
www.harborfrei...
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UPDATE! Just a quick note that we have discovered that HF sells three different model numbers of this same bench. And apparently they are built a little differently from each other. We recently picked up a second bench and hope to have a comparison video soon. If possible I also want to try to pick up the third model as well. Because now I am just curious!
Did you ever get to do the comparison on the different part #s?
@@lmychajluk Still on the to do list. unfortunately life has gotten in the way and kind of pushed my entire woodworking hobby to the back of the list right now. I sincerely hope to get back into that part soon.
Yes we bought 2 from 2 different stores and one of them was easier to put together than the other one my hubby said.
@Enteraname I'm interested in purchasing this for myself so I began to research reviews, etc. I found a RUclips who stated his was made in Vietnam and that the top was made from a "hard wood", not that it was just hardwood. Thanks for the tip regarding where it was made.
@Enteraname I totally agree, I recently bought 3 benches. 1 from Vietnam, 2 from China. Vietnam went together so much better than the China ones.
Nicely done demo. Thanks. This is a practical instruction by example with good lighting, sound, focus, logical discourse and a slight touch of humor. Thanks for doing this video.
Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated. I would love to take credit for doing those things intentionally but it was mainly just luck! :)
Unusual to see such honesty nowadays! The new drawer slides are a definite improvement. Thank you.😃👍
Thanks for the comment. If you give them a shot definitely pay attention to tolerances. Now that we know the benches are a little different some have had issues swapping them out. Of course this bench makes a great learners project anyway. We still love both of them.
Thank you very much, my wife bought this to be a cricket desk also haha, run into exact problems!! Just went to Lowe’s and got the new rails
Let us know if they work for you. Hopefully your tolerances work with them the way ours did. I have not regretted the swap yet.
@@TheProjectHelpDesk new guide rails work perfect! Thanks for the help!
Guess I should have measured the Richelieu drawer slides before I bought them. The HF slides on my model are 1/4" wide while Richelieu is 1/2". Drawer back hits on the new slides, preventing them from starting down the slide. As one person commented: "you'll need to make the drawer smaller to account of the extra width of the new slides". I'll probably just put them back the way they were and live with the annoyance. Nice thought though. Would have been great had it worked. Thanks for posting.
I've been annoyed by these drawers too. Guess I can't keep procrastinating now that you've provided this step by step approach to fixing the problem. Thank you for the time and effort you put into videoing this.
Let us know how it works for you.
I liked the idea of changing the drawer pulls, went to Lowe’s purchased the correct pulls. Problem is the new pulls are thicker than the harbor frt pulls, had to remove one side of each drawer and remove 1/8” a simple job turned into a four ordeal but it worked. Just be aware the thickness of the pulls is a big deal.
Hope others read this comment as well! Important information here.
@@TheProjectHelpDesk Perhaps you could note the thickness of the rails you replaced the old ones with as a comment.
We will look when we get a moment. We live in an our where we've had black ice freezing rain power / internet outages and a flood in our basement. We are still working on getting our home back in order. But if he remembers the sizing I'll document it here later today and if needs to measure then it might not be until later this week if we manage to not lose power again from an upcoming wintry storm. I honestly can't remember what he used. But thanks for the recommendation. I feel like maybe the link to the ones he replaced might be in description. I'll look at that right now and if it is I'll let you know.
I had the very same problem, but I have not fixed mine yet. The drawer slides from lowes were too thick.
The slotted holes in the slides should allow 1/8 inch adjustment up or down. In the video, you used the round holes, which i always thought were to lock it down, once you have the adjustment done. Thank you for posting this, I've been looking at those benches for a while myself, and your trial and error has saved me the trouble of even bothering with the original slides. Thank you again, you did a great job on both videos.
Thanks for the comment. That does make sense.
Also, want to remind folks removing the drawers is done by raising the black side-tab on the left side while pressing down the right side-tab. When installing the drawers I find it helps to move the bearing slide back a few inches from the front first, then lining up the drawer and pushing it in gradually with repeated light taps until fully installed.
Thanks so much for this upgrade info. From the reviews I have come across the slides were the workbench's primary complaint.
So I will be changing those out. I'd like to take the bottom shelf and shorten the with so that I can pull up a chair when the bench isn't in use.
The link to the exact ones he bought are in the description if it still works. We don't have the original drawer slide info but also know there are several models of the same bench that have slightly varying sizes and placement of things.
This was awesome thank u. We just bought two of them and I’m showing this video to my husband and hopefully he will be able to fix the drawers too so I can have better access. Thanks for the time you took to explain to us
You're welcome! Hope it helps guide you. There might be some comments by other viewers that may assist you & your husband as well.
I just finished modifying my workbench using the rails from your video. The bench I received had rails that were really inadequate. Just inserting the drawer knocked out several ball bearings and after repairing the rail the drawers were so far out of alignment that they rubbed together, i.e. opening one would cause the other to partly open. It was almost as if a random error was introduced for each screw holding the rails. I decided to fix that problem when I installed the new rails.
After installing the rails on one drawer I found that the new rails were slightly deeper and the drawer wouldn't fit. I needed to find about 1/4" of clearance. My options seemed to be making the drawer a little narrower or modifying the side panels. After thinking about it for a few minutes I decided to modify the side panel. I broke out my Veritas router plane and proceeded to cut a channel for the slide. I made the depth of the channel about 1/4". Of course this meant the remaing material was too thin to adequately hold the rails and the screws penetrated the MDF. I cut two pieces of poplar and attached them to the side panels in between the legs. I could now use the new slides and the side panels were much stronger. This model didn't have any bracing for the MDF that made up the lower shelf. I added three supports using 1 x 4's.
The opening between the left and right drawers is larger than it was originally but I can live with that. I'll probably end up replacing all of the MDF chunks with good wood and also beefing up the table top. That will make the bench heavier and more stable but that's a project for another day.
Thanks for sharing all of the detail. Yeah it sounds like you got one of the other models than the one I used in my video. My second bench was a different model number and couldn't use the rails either. I haven't gotten around to doing the complete redo on the second bench like you did yet.
I had the same problem with the ball bearings coming out
I just bought this same model, and thought about the crappy drawer length, headed to Home Depot for an up grade thanks for the tip
Absolutely fantastic. Thanks for sharing. I had been thinking of doing this for a long time. Now thanks to you, i know it can be done. Thank you
Cool. Make sure you keep the receipts and check the tolerances as you try it. Others have had some issues and it might depend on the model. Let us know how well it works out for you.
I work at one of the largest millwork companies on the east coast. We use Richelieu on about half the stuff we ship out to hospitals, schools and the like. They mostly cater to cabinet and millwork shops. Good stuff.
Cool. Nice info to know. Yeah those seem to be some decent rails. So much better than what the unit came with. Thanks for sharing.
Exactly the video I was looking for. Thanks for taking all the guess work out of it!
You're welcome.
Having worked in a cabinet shop for a long time all rails are made with adjustment holes or slots. these are slots with the same opening as the holes but are used for adjustments. The are vertical and horizontal for just that purpose so that if you need to adjust 1/16" you can do it without making new holes. The idea is to use one of these on each end and after you have adjusted properly, mount a 3rd screw in a round hole to hold it in position.
Thanks for the information. In our case we were using the holes that were already created. At least trying to :)
@@TheProjectHelpDesk Thoroughly understand. Updating mine with full extension slides and beefed up drawers. Think this bench is a good investment for the money.
I'm going to Harbor Freight soon to get my own workbench.
If I upgrade the drawer slides at all I will probably split the difference -- upgrade the top drawers only .
Better extension on top drawers would help offset the obstruction of the workbench top overhang
and allow some adjustment for the gap with the bottom drawers.
Some narrow sorting trays/boxes at the back of the drawers can be pulled forward for access, too.
Bought one today. They now sell 5 yes 5 different ones. I got the 63395 and it went together pretty good. The drawers came out even bit still don’t come out far enough. and the peg holes were tight. All in all it is a pretty good table for the price got mine for 119.00 with the coupon normally it is 159.99 now. I joined that inside tract club. It took off 40.00 dollars. Gonna go get the drawer slides your recommending from Lowe’s tmw and see how it works. And by the way great video also loved the look on the ladies face when you went too go play with your table in one of your other videos. 🤪🤪🤪
P.S. here’s the numbers. 63395, 93454, 69054, 62603, 61488.
Good luck with the drawer slide fitting. We know that some of the versions struggle with the upgraded slides. Wow on 5 different models. That's insane.
I purchased the 63395 and there is not enough space for the sliders from lowes
@@cinderellaslifeadventures7269 I had too take the center part where the drawer slides go and daddo cut about 3/16 I think it was. They came out even better. My second table I bought the self closing guides from HD and mounted them the same way. Much better. Very happy with the outcome. Good luck.
Nice video. I also bought one of these benches with the intention of doing actual wood working on it. In the end, I wound up returning the bench because it was just too wobbly for me. There are a couple of videos on my channel (#82 and #83) about my experience.
thanks for such a detailed vid i enjoyed your clear directions keep up the good work.
You are welcome. Are you planning a drawer rail install for a work bench?
just built one for reloading, drawers are not perfect, but very functional for my needs. good value for $150
probably easier to drop the bottom drawers than raise the top ones.
I have SKU 63395 and I'm going to try the Lowe's route and hope that fix my problem
how did it workout for you? I just got that same one
I have 14 inch sliders on hand and am thinking of getting this bench. Saved myself the disappointment of assembling it twice.
Very helpful video! 1/16” is not very much. You may be able to loosen the screws on the slides on the high side a little and maneuver the slide down. If necessary, you can loosen the screws on the low side and maneuver the slide up. That should give you at least a 1/16" of play relative to each other and maybe even a little more.
Great video, I just went to Lowes and picked up a set of rails, on my bench the pegs on the center board that attaches to the top underside did not line up,ni had to use a drill bit to offset the hole a bit, the rails I picked up are a tad different, they have the wheel but should work I saw the exact rails you bought though.
It's crazy how many different models Harbor Freight has of the same bench.
For those that have a problem with upgrading to a full extension slide, some work will be involved. Basically, you'll need to make the drawer smaller to account of the extra width of the new slides. After that I suggest mounting the slides as if you were installing new drawers and ignore the existing holes. You can adjust where to mount the new slides by accounting for the difference in height as well. But it's far easier to start from scratch.
how much smaller? I am doing the drawers nor and have to shave off some wood from the sides.
@@geoffthorpe2040, I was just starting into woodworking so I eye-balled it. But what you should do is measure the width of your drawer space and then subtract 1" . That final measurement is what the width of your drawer should be.
Is the slide system you are talking about different from those in this video?
I believe what Andy's referring to is that some of the models are different and some slides are different. In our case we didn't have to make our drawer smaller, but hopefully he'll chime in.
@@NoraDesmond897, not sure what brand is used in the video but the one I used is by Everbilt "Full Extension Side Mount Ball Bearing Drawer Slide Set", which requires your drawer to be 1" smaller than the cabinet width.
I also went to lowes and bought new sliders. Heavier than the original ones and better made. However when I went to slide the drawers into place, the rails were digging into the wood on the drawer because th e new rails are thicker than the original ones. I can not find any that are the same thickness. Seems all sliders are 1/2 inch thick. Now I'm just not sure what to do.
Look at some of the comments because I think some of the others have discussed this exact issue and what they did to make adjustments.
I’m pretty sure the reason they did it that way is because of the center of gravity. So be careful if you have 100lb drawers and open them up at the same time. Your table will tip over!
We don't keep heavy things in the drawers we used the new rails on and rarely have more than one open at the same time. But great to keep in mind as well. Sometimes gravity gets the best of us. 🤣 thanks for watching.
Probably could leave the top as they were and just drop the bottom drawers for extra space?
Not a bad idea especially if you have taller stuff to store. Let us know if you go that route and how it works out.
The central rail slide support 1" plywood that it's all screwed to was severely warped on my new purchase: 10-28-19. A shim under one side aligned the very top and bottom of the warped plywood, but I don't know if that will solve the problem. Two right hand side panels were already installed on that central slide support. I can't figure out how to get them off for assembly. I can't figure out how to get the 2 completed drawers onto the rails on the other side. Messed up the ball bearing slide kind of like you did when I tried it. I don't see how to install the finished drawers onto those slides.
Consider dropping the drawers down some to allow top drawers to be opened with wood c-clamped to top?
Thanks for the idea. We are actually discussing some redesign options. Including building out newer deeper drawers, building a wider drawer that goes all the way across, adding new rows of drawers. We got pulled into some other projects as well so we may just let it go as is for now. Still debating. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I would imagine that correct way to line them up is to measure, mark, mount the sliders to drawers, measure and mark again before mounting to the table.
Agreed. One interesting item is that they appear to have a slight slant downward on the factory ones. Almost like it was designed so that the drawer might naturally close with gravity. Or it could have just been bad tolerances on the factory brackets. Thanks for the comment.
I also have this workbench, or one that looks just like it. The problem I have, is that the existing rails are only 3/8" wide, and most rails like the ones used in this video are 1/2" wide. I tried using a 1/2", not enough room in that drawer cavity for the additional 1/4" brought on by the wider slides.
We've seen from other comments that it appears like this company really mixes it up with the parts they use. Possibly even when it is the same model number. We know that three different model numbers exist. We added a pinned comment to warn about that. But it seems like even the same of one model may be changing. Thanks for commenting about your findings.
I ran into the same problem. Most drawer rail pairs are one inch thick, but there's only 5/8" to 3/4" extra space between the drawer openings. I have not tried the ones from Lowe's yet but now they are about $13 per pair. Ouch! I'm still looking for a solution.
i added some earth magnets to the drawers as they seem to want to open!
I ran into the same problem with the drawers not fitting with the new drawer rails installed. The stock drawer rails are approximately 7/16" thick. The drawer rails that you mention are 1/2" thick. I sure would like to know how you got the drawer installed with approximately 1/8" (2x 1/16") interference. I plan to remove the LH and RH drawer rail support boards and modifying them by adding 1/8" deep grooves where the new outer drawer rails are to be installed using a router. This will move the drawers outboard by 1/16" but I don't think that will cause any issues.
Was yours also model number 62603? If so then it makes me wonder if they have bad tolerances even within the same style. In my case the gap was so big for our drawers using the stock rails that we had to engage the drawer at at angle in order to hit one of the brackets and then give it a slight pull to get it to reach the other bracket. So ours actually fit better with the newer rail than the old one.
Just a note I bought two and neither one has enough room to fit the upgrade slides. The slots are 3/16 to narrow between them to fit the drawers. I am stuck using the cheap sliders. Damn.
There are several models and that stinks you got one that doesn't fit the upgraded slides.
Having trouble getting a drawer back out that somehow got cooked in the bracket track. I actually got the track with the ball bearing out of one side, but this drawer still will not come out. I've tried and tried. Any suggestions. Please help. This is my 3rd bench build in the last 2 days and I am tired. Don't know what to do. It just seems to be stuck on something.
In your case it sounds like the rail has gotten completely out of the track or wedged. Without being there to put hands and eyes on the situation it is very hard to suggest a fix. The only two options I can think of are just getting aggressive until something gives (Which might break something further) or removing the three bolts that hold the leg on that side and loosening the bottom ones (or removing them) to get that leg out of the way some. That should loosen things up enough to hopefully see in there and pop something loose. Hope that helps. Might be good to have a second set of hands on this too.
Thank you so much as it turns out I was not pushing the black things on the sides , the correct way. Someone sent me the information from this posting. Not sure if it was you or not. But thank you.
How thick are the legs? I want to add locking casters when I put mine together.
I'll have my husband look at your question when he comes home from work.
The legs themselves are right at 2" X 2". Maybe 1/16" or 1/8" less. The wooden rail that actually touches the floor, that the legs themselves sit on, is 2-3/8" wide and the part that sits flat on the floor where each 'foot' would be is about 4-1/2" long. After that 4-1/2" pad there is an arch. So the surface area that you could attach a wheel is basically 2-3/8" X 4-1/2" wide.
What a well trained hubby
Happy wife happy life.
Thank you sir. Those are the worse rails ever.
Just bought this bench for my son. Same problems with the drawers - even worse, the bottom right door is stuck in the mid-open position. Can’t move it in or out. I would like to try this mod with new rails but have to get the drawers out first. Any ideas? Thanks.
Best idea we have had in the other video was to take the leg off. Since the board that the rails attach to are connected to the leg, removing the three leg bolts/screws and removing the leg should free up the assembly. Or at least make it easier to get in there and pry on things.
I purchased the same exact rails from Lowe’s but when I installed them them they were too beefy. The drawer no longer fit. Did you run into the same issue?
This workbench has had different drawer guides on it. The ones on his bench have the newer style of guide which is 1/2" thick, while the older bench has a 3/8" drawer guide which were a way cheaper design. All you can really do is either make the drawers narrower or replace the end panels with thinner panels.
@@Dznytoy just bought one today at Harbor freight and the drawer slides are 3/8". It is SKU 63395. Can't find full extension mounts anywhere........ :(
Yes I did, can't find any slides that are slimmer in thickness, like the original slides.
Also it appears that you replaced the center brace for the rails. The manufacturer provided a MDF board and yours looks like plywood.
I didn't actually replace my middle brace. So this is what we have discovered and we are currently working on an additional video on this. It turns out that HF sells multiple versions of this same workbench. They apparently have different model numbers and are built slightly differently even though they seem to have the same name and the employees interchange them at will. We actually went and purchased a second one of these benches ourselves. I gave them the model number shown in the subject but the one that they brought to us (Which happened to be the only one they had in stock) was actually a different model number and built differently. This new one had a brace under the drawers instead of under the bottom shelf and it also had the MDF center support like yours. Our first bench had a lot of slop in the drawers. This second bench had a lot tighter fit and the drawers actually felt much better. The drawers are also built differently. So I am fairly certain (but admittedly just assuming) that the original MDF bench had problems with the center support. So they got rid of the cross brace, changed from MDF to a thicker plywood and made the drawers slightly smaller to make up the difference. But again this is an assumption on my part and may be completely wrong. It 'appears' that when they did that they may have made the tolerances sloppier which left room for the rails that I swapped out. I have not tried to upgrade the rails on our new bench yet. For now we edited the title and added the model number of the bench that we actually successfully replaced the rails on. For the new bench I am still researching myself. I am currently trying to compile data to find out just how many models of this bench they might sell and what the actual differences are. Just looking at my two benches there are a lot of differences. So far it appears that they may actually have 3 different models. #62603 #63395 and #69054. Doing a search for 'Windsor Design Workbench' on their website brings up three identical looking items but with different model numbers shown. At first I thought this was just a bookkeeping thing but now I believe that they actually have three slightly different benches being sold as essentially the same item. Our sincere apologies for the wasted effort it caused you. I am also going to edit the description to include a warning as well.
Ok. The SKU on the box reads 69054. Everything you’ve assumed makes perfect sense to me. Obviously I didn’t want to modify each drawer so I purchased a quarter inch MDF (2x2) board and cut 2 9”x16” pieces out and replaced the brace on the left and right side. I installed the new 14” rails and everything works perfectly. Home Depot charged $4 for the MDF and I’m sure had I asked would have cut it down for me. So that we are clear I DID NOT change the center brace. There is a half inch gap now running down the center but since the face of the drawer flares out as much as they do it doesn’t look terrible. The screws that fasten the rails to the quarter inch MDF do pop out the back but I’m not concerned since I had planned of installing some peg board on the opposite side of the legs to store some of my cordless tools. That will be for another day :)
BTW the rails are now $13.99
We found ours at Lowe's right when we filmed this video - Prices vary so much and of course different stores even have them different prices. I wouldn't be surprised if it did increase since 2019 though. We once bought a light fixture at one store for very cheap and another store that same fixture rang up for 5 or 6 times the price. Of course we manage to get it for the cheaper price because they did have a sticker up with the cheaper price and obviously it wasn't supposed to be that way, but we called the manager over to find out if they could honor the price they had on the floor.
Fill old holes with epoxy then drill new ones where ever you want em
Add close caption so deaf people could enjoy video too
We thought we had. We will see if we can do that. Thanks for letting it know.
For some reason, it's not wanting to do it automatically. My husband speaks really quickly and it's going to take some time to manually add them. I tried to do a 3 minute segment and youtube studio is being stubborn this morning. However, I will continue to try to get those added to this video! Appreciate the support.
Got this desk. Wow the drawer slides are GARBAGE. Cost $60 to fix for 50% of what I paid for the table. Hummm.
I feel your pain.
I am having the same problem and I went y HF today and I didn't see any of them on the floor. I'm wordering if there's still selling them
Or it could be that they are completely sold out (and removed floor model so that folks stopped asking for the time being) due to the pandemic.
@@soldiersilk65 They still sell them in our area. But they are always out of stock as soon as they get them it seems.