The Orico charger he did a few videos ago now is also very cromulent. I’m an absolute power supply snob since a cheap one nearly burnt my house down years ago-with mum in it. I’m quite confident in letting the Orico into said home.
By the way, the yellow insulated wire is called “Triple Insulated Wire” or “TIW” for short, in case you didnt know. Popular manufacturers are Furukawa and Totoku.
Well, how amazing! Who would have thought that wire with three layers of insulation would be called "triple insulated wire"? By the way, in my house I have wire with two layers of insulation, and that is called "Double Insulated Wire".... go figure!
"So the conclusion is... NICE :)." That's exactly what we want to see - properly built chargers designed to last a long time, work properly and work safely without putting you (or your devices) at risk. Sadly a lot of cheap chargers tend to miss some safety critical steps, as seen in the "dangerous USB chargers" series.
when u want to be cheapo u need to accept the risks... (if u not scared away when a device cant write down Original, u should not expect any safety..., this is why i never buy an aftermarket charger, just the brand charger for my devices :) cost more 1 time but lasts 3-4 time the cheapo chargers lifetime )
you can never be sure even when attempting to buy a proper "brand" charger, since there are millions of fake ones even in local stores, not aliexpress. I'm using a lot of them for my small devices, but proper branded ones with low power 1A/5V are becoming difficult to find. I do not need more powerful ones, that are quite expensive.
Actually, there are some third-party chargers that are made by reputable brands such as Aukey, Anker etc, and they are powerful, but safely built. At least, I've tried these two brands and can certainly recommend both.
well i looked into multiple Samsung and HTC branded USB power supplies, they were low quality or at least what i mostly looking for: the capacitor at the DC side was the same very small (too small...) one in every 10-20W power supply. You can even visualize how bad some chargers can be by measuring the ripple which will go more or less directly into the battery (= reduce lifetime). I personally use as often as possible only chargers i modded myself with at least 3-5 times bigger filtering caps for the USB output, they compensate the ripple much better, the phone keeps slightly cooler AND charges faster. I never had much issues of dying chargers, in fact all of them mostly last long enough, but as i said right above: Their quality, or better: their DC output quality is even at 20$ Apple Chargers BAD. Example? With a 20W USB C charger (original apple) on my iPhone 12 Mini i measure peaks of nearly 5 Amps (should be like stable 2,x Amps!) and at a regulary 9V Output voltage a ripple of +/- 6V, resulting in Vpeak of up to 13V (at nearly 5 Amps!!!!) By adding an additional filtering cap with only 47uF x2 in parallel the ripple and so the voltage and current peaks are nearly completely gone which will make the battery last a lot longer. And just 4 info: by using wireless charging.... you totally wreck your battery, wireless charging produces even more ripple than any cheap USB charger :D
This is so different from the previous ones! I was in serious distrust of power adaptors, but now I know that not all adptors are intended to set your bedside on fire. Thanks for the video.
the key with the insulation on the transformer winding isn't just the thickness or dielectric strength, its about physical resistance to abrasion and flexing. the lacquer on transformer wire will actually insulate several hundred volts perfectly well, but its very easy to nick or abrade a flaw into it, and thats especially relevant in these tiny transformers which are wound in huge numbers at great speed. a layer of pvc or similar insulation is so much tougher and more durable.
I just wanted to write you on Patreon, that teardowons of ebay charges is a bit boring and that I would be greatfull if you could take a look at some low cost, but wide-known, big producers like for example lenovo, xiaomi etc... so.. many thanks for your effort with making these videos!
Yeah really wish he review some branded cheap products from Ugreen, Ldnio, Baseus and more... Anker and Aukey is a bit pricey compared to the others I mentioned....
👌The technical information in the clips is excellent. How to express information with this way of expression and accent is doubly enjoyable. Register this type of expression in your name.😊
Funny that they took care to use different, standard wire colors for mains input, and then connected brown to neutral and blue to live. Not that it would matter, though.
@@rkan2 I know. Still, funny that they slightly increased their logistics costs and got it wrong. The reasonable thing to do would be to use wires of the same color, whichever is cheapest (likely black or white).
Imaging this guy in the tech store asking the seller if he could have an eye of a device. Soon after the device in million of pieces and with proper conclusion :). Perfect explanation, as usual!
I have similar type of usb charger from old lenovo phone (similar package but 2amp insted if 1)and im using it more than 5 years it still works nicely. Also seeing its internals is nice it is an good, safe and reliable charger.
I really enjoyed this teardown, we get soooo many of the bad ones its pretty cool to see a good one! Would love to see more "legit name brand" teardowns!
Por fin un producto decente..!! Este es el video que esperaba, ya había perdido la fé en la humanidad..Finally a decent product .. !! This is the video I was waiting for, I had already lost faith in humanity.. ;)
11:48 - "this tool" is called a caliper :) I see that one is the better option: there are two variants, with 0,05mm accuracy and 0,02mm accuracy (this is determined by the length of the "fractional part" ruler - in 0,05 it is 39mm and in 0,02 it is 49mm). In general it's a very handy tool, every engineer should know how to use it and have one of his/her own.
@@qolbunsalim5188 I heard it's best to have the vernier type. Apparently those digital ones (especially cheap ones) can decalibrate with time. On the other hand they're definitely far easier to read. I believe it also depends on the actual accuracy required. I myself have a 0,02mm one, but honestly in most cases that I measured, accuracy of 0,2mm (10x worse) was sufficient enough. In such case slight decalibration is probably good tradeoff for easy readout.
Even my tricle brand has 0.05 accuracy. It is enough for me for electronics use. The expensive one like Mitutoyo brand was too good for non critical use like in electronics. Thankyou Michal.
But the negative side of insulation is that, it will reduce the coupling between primary and secondary and in turn will increase the leakage inductance. This will in turn need better clamp circuit reducing efficiency.
After watching multiple RUclips videos about horrendous AC and Car adapters I've been much more careful purchasing adapters, I've had good luck with Anker.
even that EE13 core should be able to handle way more power then just 5W. that transformer as a very easy life compared to how that size core would be used these days. as for heating the cores to separate, I made a little circuit to test the saturation current of the transformers that I switch to "torture mode" where I just crank the current right up into saturation to heat the core on its own. just not too much to burn the wire insulation and its a very nice controlled way to heat them up.
Very good construction. The first capacitor behind the diode on the secondary side is a polymer type with extra low ESR and thus high max. a pulse current load which in this type is well above 1A at 100kHz. Especially for constructions without feedback through the optocoupler, it is crucial that the output voltage of the charger does not exceed the maximum level and also for the long life of the charger. I think that this design, if it had an optocoupler, can without problems handle twice the output current.
It would be cool to have a device for testing these things at the store, like if you go to a Goodwill/Value Village and see the wall o' chargers. The dodgy ones don't always have obvious typos.
I have also opened a Lenovo charger before, same board, same transformer, but different model. The reason I opened it is it failed. Removing the parts are challenging as they are securely soldered. Well, Lenovo did a good job in manufacturing, although I can't figure out why the charger failed. I just salvaged the components.
Veľmi kvalitné video. Je vidieť že značková nabíjačka je úplne ináč vyrobená a dokonca je problém ju otvoriť... Sa mi ľúbia tvoje klasické metódy. Som tiež údržbár a kladivo je najlepší kľúč. Diky za podrobné info.
Definitivamente el corazon del cargador es el transformador de pulsos...no se si será igual que llamarlos "choppers" pero solo en monitores viejos y tv's viejas he visto transformadores así de elaborados...desde que estoy en este canal es raro ver un transformador asi en un cargador de celulares
In the design of flyback switching power supplies , if the capacitors at output 2 are parallel or separated by a coil, they will always fail as the first capacitor closer to the diode. Therefore, the correct design should include as the first capacitor a higher quality type, the maximum ripple current of which exceeds the maximum current supplied by the power supply itself. This parameter max. ripple current vs lifespan and maximum temperature can find and check in datasheet of mentioned capacitor. If this principle is not applied, the service life and reliability of mentioned switching power supply is much shorter.
I wonder what the actual difference in BOM and manufacturing costs is between DODGY and NICE. It cant be that much, the fundamental design and 90% of components are the same. A lot of the DODGY chargers come sooo close to being a decent product, if only they'd cost-cut just a tiny bit less.
I was just saying the same thing about Chinese crimping tools: they’re so close, but cut too many corners. If they targeted, say, $30-40 instead of $15, they’d be able to make a product that actually competes with the $400 original tools, but noooo, they just go for the absolute cheapest… :(
That exact case when "too much" is bad. It takes some large voltage to flash an air gap, but, fyi, flashing along an insulator's surface takes way less. Also wonder why nobody uses the best safety trick ever, the ground contact that is ;)
Why it written with Bahasa Indonesia / Malay there?? And indeed, Lenovo original charger is awesome about build quality... I have Lenovo p2 power. But with other QC charger, it won't activate the fast charging... It has to use its own Charger... I think lenovo p2 has special fast charging method...
hi,i wont to diy a isolation trafo from an old trafo from scrapyard,the outer dimensions are w96,h80,b46. the wire diameter is 1.2mm ,could you tell me how nany turns and windings i need, for approx. 500 w.?
I wonder why there has to be a huge distance between the primary and secondary side of the board. The components are intact by solder and they can’t touch each other.
I cannot tell if you are serious or joking.....but if serious, you should explore "circuit separation". It is because of "tracking" that a "creepage" gap (8mm recommended) is required between primary and secondary circuits.
DGW i made your switch mode transformator tester circuit but my circuit doesn't work. I used attiny24a smd (i couldn't find a dip one) and irfz44 instead of irlb8743. Is it critical to use irlb8743 for mosfet. I check all the voltage and value on my circuit. Everything is correct but it doesn't work. Please help me.
@Marko Bandov i think about this suggestion thank you but there is one more problem even if i remove the mosfet i think i need to see some signal on Attiny24a but there's no signal on signal leg of Attiny24a. Is it critical to use dip Attiny24a because my ic is smd. Or is my ic broken. Because of this i order new Attiny24a for test this situation.
If you get rid of that cap between the primary and secondary side, does that mean that the tingle you get when you touch the output also goes away? I remember seeing that the tingle is due to this cap between pri/sec. Keen to have this cleared up though!
If it’s not a dumb question; how does a fusible resistor differ from a normal resistor? Are there ways to test one from the other, and do they have different bands or ways to identify? Thanks!
fusible resistor works like normal resistor in normal circumstences and acts like fuse in case of short Circuit. Normal Resistor take some time in blowing up and Fusible resistor reaction is fast. Fusible Resistors are mostly Light Blue colored and rough appearence.(Not Shiny Finish)
I have some chargers from Aliexpress, like Baseus. Touching lightning (iPhone) charger cable tip gives a slight tingle, not shock, but unpleasant. Is it something like residual current that’s not filtered out or could it be something possibly dangerous?
@@DiodeGoneWild I received a no brand PD charger today, for my usb soldering iron (miniware ts80p). Touching the iron handle gives a burning tingle. Checked the gndiron body with Fluke, DC voltage 0.5V, AC 25-30V. Man, now I’m afraid to open and see what kind of horror is inside that charger.
Hi, yes I agree, the clearance distance is across the air gap and to the primary and secondary points/track. The creepage distance is the path across the surface of the insulation to the primary and secondary circuit points/track.😀👍
That is an polymer capacitor. A solid state aluminium capacitor. There is no electrolyte in it to dry out. It has lower esr than electrolytic, withstands higher temperatures and has longer life. But the package size for same capacity is larger when compared to electrolytic and is more expensive.
1080P 50 FPS... some gaming videos don't have this framerate! The way you are recording and editing (both audio and picture) is very basic but yet your videos are much better to watch than at least 90% of videos about electronics. And I say that as somebody who spends several hours a day doing some electronics, building and repairing devices. Also... isn't the "interference inductor" actually a common mode filter?
The audio in this video had some kind of weird background noise in it. Like it was raining, or something. I kept pausing it to see if it was raining here.
@@1pcfred Yes true, it is probably just some noise where he is, but still the video was very enjoyable. And for a camera microphone this one is very good.
@@Zebra_Paw Maybe it was raining when he made the video? It sounded like rain hitting a roof to me. Could just be some kind of background noise too though? I must have paused the video a half a dozen times to see if the rain had picked up here. Then I was like no that sound is in the video.
Thanks :). Yes, it's a common mode one, as I mentioned at the end of the video. And the noise some of you mention comes from the camera (Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX15). This one has more hiss than the previous camera (Olympus XZ-10), yet the voice is way less distorted. And it has a sharper image than the previous camera at the same resolution. And it can do 24, 25, 30, 50 and 60fps. The previous camera only did 30fps.
@@DiodeGoneWild I don’t think it is such an issue, the quality is very goid for a camera microphone, but maybe you should consider using an external microphone or even record the voice separately…
Thank you for your videos! Please make a video showing us how to make the 24V 10A SMPS as a bench power supply with variable voltage. ( The one with TL494) thank you for your educational electronics videos !
Last week I opened a 6 year old Xiaomi 5V 1A charger, and it was very similar to this one. I didn't open the transformer though :) But I wonder how the regulation works without feedback. Can chip sense secondary current via transformer, because it shuts down after 1A.
The video explains it somewhat. There is a 3rd winding called "Feedback Winding", in this device that's the outer-most winding on the transformer. The control chip knows the voltage input on the primary, and it gets a report back from the Feedback Winding about what is being induced on the secondary side. The Feedback winding is much smaller than the Secondary winding, but it's voltage will follow the secondary voltage. So, when the secondary goes lower, the feedback winding also drops. There is no current sensing used or needed. The control chip just monitors voltage (of the Feedback). If a load is placed on the secondary winding, it's voltage starts to drop (sag) so the control chip increases the pulse width (PWM) of the Primary to put more power in there. At no load, it might only be 10% duty cycle, and at 500mA load it might need to have 60% duty to keep the voltage at 5.2V or whatever. The control chip just references everything from the Feedback winding. As secondary current increases further, a point will come where the duty cycle hits 100% and there is no more power possible - that's the maximum rated current. The control IC will continue to monitor voltage of the Feedback winding and if it drops by (say) 10% from nominal, it will simply shut everything down.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
So nice to see what a good one is like. Thanks for all of these tear downs!
Yo nice to see you here!
i also think about that
Makes you realise how scary the cheap ones are when you see a properly engineered one like this
The Orico charger he did a few videos ago now is also very cromulent. I’m an absolute power supply snob since a cheap one nearly burnt my house down years ago-with mum in it. I’m quite confident in letting the Orico into said home.
That "NICE :)" at the end felt like a victory after a marathon; very satsifying
Old Design, but very well made, they went all out on the transformer.
Diode gone wild:
-And the conclusion is...
My brain automatically:
-DODGYYYYY
SYUPPERRR DODGYYY absolutely
Ofcouuuuuurrrrssseeeeee
By the way, the yellow insulated wire is called “Triple Insulated Wire” or “TIW” for short, in case you didnt know. Popular manufacturers are Furukawa and Totoku.
Well, how amazing! Who would have thought that wire with three layers of insulation would be called "triple insulated wire"?
By the way, in my house I have wire with two layers of insulation, and that is called "Double Insulated Wire".... go figure!
I heard the term "triple insulated wire" before but didn't think it was the actual name of it lol. It's like the term "Lamp cord"
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 - HaHa - do you mean the Lamp Cord that is super-light duty and only suitable for making cords for lamps ❓😂
@@johncoops6897 Yeah, the premade ones that are only for lamps
Wouldn't trust more than half an amp on those :D
Triple insulated wire would be great for homemade flyback transformers and Tesla coils.
"So the conclusion is... NICE :)."
That's exactly what we want to see - properly built chargers designed to last a long time, work properly and work safely without putting you (or your devices) at risk.
Sadly a lot of cheap chargers tend to miss some safety critical steps, as seen in the "dangerous USB chargers" series.
when u want to be cheapo u need to accept the risks... (if u not scared away when a device cant write down Original, u should not expect any safety..., this is why i never buy an aftermarket charger, just the brand charger for my devices :) cost more 1 time but lasts 3-4 time the cheapo chargers lifetime )
you can never be sure even when attempting to buy a proper "brand" charger, since there are millions of fake ones even in local stores, not aliexpress.
I'm using a lot of them for my small devices, but proper branded ones with low power 1A/5V are becoming difficult to find. I do not need more powerful ones, that are quite expensive.
Actually, there are some third-party chargers that are made by reputable brands such as Aukey, Anker etc, and they are powerful, but safely built. At least, I've tried these two brands and can certainly recommend both.
@@krahaborowski Same here. I'd like to know if there is a way to recognize the proper onces before buying, or even when buying online.
well i looked into multiple Samsung and HTC branded USB power supplies, they were low quality or at least what i mostly looking for: the capacitor at the DC side was the same very small (too small...) one in every 10-20W power supply.
You can even visualize how bad some chargers can be by measuring the ripple which will go more or less directly into the battery (= reduce lifetime). I personally use as often as possible only chargers i modded myself with at least 3-5 times bigger filtering caps for the USB output, they compensate the ripple much better, the phone keeps slightly cooler AND charges faster.
I never had much issues of dying chargers, in fact all of them mostly last long enough, but as i said right above: Their quality, or better: their DC output quality is even at 20$ Apple Chargers BAD. Example? With a 20W USB C charger (original apple) on my iPhone 12 Mini i measure peaks of nearly 5 Amps (should be like stable 2,x Amps!) and at a regulary 9V Output voltage a ripple of +/- 6V, resulting in Vpeak of up to 13V (at nearly 5 Amps!!!!)
By adding an additional filtering cap with only 47uF x2 in parallel the ripple and so the voltage and current peaks are nearly completely gone which will make the battery last a lot longer.
And just 4 info: by using wireless charging.... you totally wreck your battery, wireless charging produces even more ripple than any cheap USB charger :D
This is so different from the previous ones!
I was in serious distrust of power adaptors, but now I know that not all adptors are intended to set your bedside on fire. Thanks for the video.
the key with the insulation on the transformer winding isn't just the thickness or dielectric strength, its about physical resistance to abrasion and flexing. the lacquer on transformer wire will actually insulate several hundred volts perfectly well, but its very easy to nick or abrade a flaw into it, and thats especially relevant in these tiny transformers which are wound in huge numbers at great speed. a layer of pvc or similar insulation is so much tougher and more durable.
Wow! So this is what a proper product looks like!
@Agustinus Reynaldi "Origianl" 😂
I just wanted to write you on Patreon, that teardowons of ebay charges is a bit boring and that I would be greatfull if you could take a look at some low cost, but wide-known, big producers like for example lenovo, xiaomi etc... so.. many thanks for your effort with making these videos!
Yeah really wish he review some branded cheap products from Ugreen, Ldnio, Baseus and more...
Anker and Aukey is a bit pricey compared to the others I mentioned....
Can you make a Flyback switching power supply? That would be an interesting series to have
i agree a design from ground up would be interesting and how you decide on parameters
A lot more effort and thought went into building this one ! Thanks for the tear down .
I've always watched this series!
It's very interesting to see all of them!
Wow, that's a really nice charger! Thank you very much for your video analysis and sharing your knowledge, Danyk
👌The technical information in the clips is excellent.
How to express information with this way of expression and accent is doubly enjoyable.
Register this type of expression in your name.😊
Nice! Always wanted to see how a proper charger is on the inside. Thank you!
A table saw with the blade ~2mm above the table is perfect for opening all manner of chargers and wall warts quickly, safely, and neatly.
But doing that isn't any *FUN* .
Excellent analysis, Danyk. That transformer shows how one should be made. I'd like to find the video that featured the hairdryer melting. LOL
Very good to see one like this, it even has a blast plastic shield and spark gap on second adaptor which is rare to see on even decent adapters.
And the conclusion is:
"Nááááiiiiessseee" 😎💙
I really love it
I think there should be a stamp on the good charger that read " Diode gone wild approved"
Funny that they took care to use different, standard wire colors for mains input, and then connected brown to neutral and blue to live. Not that it would matter, though.
The most unimportant thing in a device like this... You can turn it around anyway lol
@@rkan2 I know. Still, funny that they slightly increased their logistics costs and got it wrong. The reasonable thing to do would be to use wires of the same color, whichever is cheapest (likely black or white).
When you're prying open things i'm like "oh god, don't stab yourself with the screwdriver!"
Me too
Careful
Imaging this guy in the tech store asking the seller if he could have an eye of a device. Soon after the device in million of pieces and with proper conclusion :). Perfect explanation, as usual!
Sow much injoulation!
Thanks for testing, and tearing them apart, and sharing your conclusions.
I have similar type of usb charger from old lenovo phone (similar package but 2amp insted if 1)and im using it more than 5 years it still works nicely. Also seeing its internals is nice it is an good, safe and reliable charger.
WOW Great quality construction. You get what you pay for. Incredible detail in the transformer construction.
Diode, utilise a arbour press with a flat head screwdriver bit to open sealed adapters and cases without a hammer. It works with me perfectly.
Dan used his swing press. It was a very nice swing press at that! Just needed a sickle and he'd have had the flag.
I really enjoyed this teardown, we get soooo many of the bad ones its pretty cool to see a good one! Would love to see more "legit name brand" teardowns!
Por fin un producto decente..!! Este es el video que esperaba, ya había perdido la fé en la humanidad..Finally a decent product .. !! This is the video I was waiting for, I had already lost faith in humanity.. ;)
Your editing is getting damn good m8!
NICE. great video with unique english accent. greetings from alexandria egypt.
11:48 - "this tool" is called a caliper :) I see that one is the better option: there are two variants, with 0,05mm accuracy and 0,02mm accuracy (this is determined by the length of the "fractional part" ruler - in 0,05 it is 39mm and in 0,02 it is 49mm). In general it's a very handy tool, every engineer should know how to use it and have one of his/her own.
I have one (tricle brand) and always use it. The new cheaper one from china already has a digital display.
And here we called it "Jangka Sorong" although the proper name was caliper.
@@qolbunsalim5188 I heard it's best to have the vernier type. Apparently those digital ones (especially cheap ones) can decalibrate with time. On the other hand they're definitely far easier to read.
I believe it also depends on the actual accuracy required. I myself have a 0,02mm one, but honestly in most cases that I measured, accuracy of 0,2mm (10x worse) was sufficient enough. In such case slight decalibration is probably good tradeoff for easy readout.
Even my tricle brand has 0.05 accuracy. It is enough for me for electronics use. The expensive one like Mitutoyo brand was too good for non critical use like in electronics.
Thankyou Michal.
But the negative side of insulation is that, it will reduce the coupling between primary and secondary and in turn will increase the leakage inductance. This will in turn need better clamp circuit reducing efficiency.
After watching multiple RUclips videos about horrendous AC and Car adapters I've been much more careful purchasing adapters, I've had good luck with Anker.
This is the first charger i think passing the all test of diode gone wild.
even that EE13 core should be able to handle way more power then just 5W. that transformer as a very easy life compared to how that size core would be used these days.
as for heating the cores to separate, I made a little circuit to test the saturation current of the transformers that I switch to "torture mode" where I just crank the current right up into saturation to heat the core on its own. just not too much to burn the wire insulation and its a very nice controlled way to heat them up.
Very good construction.
The first capacitor behind the diode on the secondary side is a polymer type with extra low ESR and thus high max. a pulse current load which in this type is well above 1A at 100kHz. Especially for constructions without feedback through the optocoupler, it is crucial that the output voltage of the charger does not exceed the maximum level and also for the long life of the charger.
I think that this design, if it had an optocoupler, can without problems handle twice the output current.
I have an idea of calling fusible resistor. The Fusistor
It would be cool to have a device for testing these things at the store, like if you go to a Goodwill/Value Village and see the wall o' chargers. The dodgy ones don't always have obvious typos.
Nice brick. I also liked the Orico one, too. I’d happily have both in my house.
This is actually VERY NICE!!
I have also opened a Lenovo charger before, same board, same transformer, but different model. The reason I opened it is it failed. Removing the parts are challenging as they are securely soldered. Well, Lenovo did a good job in manufacturing, although I can't figure out why the charger failed. I just salvaged the components.
Veľmi kvalitné video. Je vidieť že značková nabíjačka je úplne ináč vyrobená a dokonca je problém ju otvoriť... Sa mi ľúbia tvoje klasické metódy. Som tiež údržbár a kladivo je najlepší kľúč. Diky za podrobné info.
why did you not measure the isolation resistance between the primary and the secondary coils with a megohm meter before unwinding all ?
If you want a top tip for Apple USB chargers; the serial number can be found inside the USB port. Counterfeit chargers almost never go to that effort.
Bro after long time.nice video again.tnx
Definitivamente el corazon del cargador es el transformador de pulsos...no se si será igual que llamarlos "choppers" pero solo en monitores viejos y tv's viejas he visto transformadores así de elaborados...desde que estoy en este canal es raro ver un transformador asi en un cargador de celulares
it's a good one it's impressive the difference between a good switching inductor and a cheap one....
In the design of flyback switching power supplies , if the capacitors at output 2 are parallel or separated by a coil, they will always fail as the first capacitor closer to the diode. Therefore, the correct design should include as the first capacitor a higher quality type, the maximum ripple current of which exceeds the maximum current supplied by the power supply itself.
This parameter max. ripple current vs lifespan and maximum temperature can find and check in datasheet of mentioned capacitor.
If this principle is not applied, the service life and reliability of mentioned switching power supply is much shorter.
I wonder what the actual difference in BOM and manufacturing costs is between DODGY and NICE. It cant be that much, the fundamental design and 90% of components are the same. A lot of the DODGY chargers come sooo close to being a decent product, if only they'd cost-cut just a tiny bit less.
some plastic sleeving on the secondary winding costs almost nothing. The manufacturers of cheap chargers just can't be bothered.
I was just saying the same thing about Chinese crimping tools: they’re so close, but cut too many corners. If they targeted, say, $30-40 instead of $15, they’d be able to make a product that actually competes with the $400 original tools, but noooo, they just go for the absolute cheapest… :(
You’re one of my favourite RUclipsrs.
Diodegonewild approved!
Finally a good one! Nice video!
The Xiaomi adaptor is also nice. Come with interference filter on primary n secondary, proper gap n also plastic sparator like this lenovo one.
That exact case when "too much" is bad. It takes some large voltage to flash an air gap, but, fyi, flashing along an insulator's surface takes way less. Also wonder why nobody uses the best safety trick ever, the ground contact that is ;)
Hey Diode, you can use 100% Pure Acetone to dissolve the glue and open it easily, try that.
What is the function of interference inductor at the hot side? thanks
Have you done the newer Samsung Chargers?
Why it written with Bahasa Indonesia / Malay there??
And indeed, Lenovo original charger is awesome about build quality...
I have Lenovo p2 power.
But with other QC charger, it won't activate the fast charging...
It has to use its own Charger...
I think lenovo p2 has special fast charging method...
Maybe teardown the brand chargers will be helpful for us to choose and buy a good charger...
Like Anker, Aukey, Ugreen, etc...
Thank you, bro....
yes, to validate if they really are as they advertise themselves as premium
Just to note at 4:11 that the white matter is not resin
It is silastic
Excellent! Thank you.
The interference shield in the transformer, does it reduce the efficiency?
Anything between does.
Helpful video
You have transformed my opinion of these little devil chargers... they aren't all devils. You are a good human.
14:39 can you make me understand...why the wires have 0.72 overall diameter,whilst the inner diameter is 0.52 but you took in account only 0.1 ?
Am I miss the schematic or you didn't give it because legal reason?
hi,i wont to diy a isolation trafo from an old trafo from scrapyard,the outer dimensions are w96,h80,b46. the wire diameter is 1.2mm ,could you tell me how nany turns and windings i need, for approx. 500 w.?
how can i send you things?
Could u do the schematics in the next video?
I wonder why there has to be a huge distance between the primary and secondary side of the board. The components are intact by solder and they can’t touch each other.
I cannot tell if you are serious or joking.....but if serious, you should explore "circuit separation". It is because of "tracking" that a "creepage" gap (8mm recommended) is required between primary and secondary circuits.
Bro please tear down some high amp power adapter like : Xiaomi 120 watt or some 65 watt pd charger
Sure don't forget to pay for it on his Patreon
Is shield connected before common mode filter, or after?
0:50 And there is error in russian "Адаптер питания" because there is R (proper letter is Я) in the last letter.
DGW i made your switch mode transformator tester circuit but my circuit doesn't work. I used attiny24a smd (i couldn't find a dip one) and irfz44 instead of irlb8743. Is it critical to use irlb8743 for mosfet. I check all the voltage and value on my circuit. Everything is correct but it doesn't work. Please help me.
@Marko Bandov i think about this suggestion thank you but there is one more problem even if i remove the mosfet i think i need to see some signal on Attiny24a but there's no signal on signal leg of Attiny24a. Is it critical to use dip Attiny24a because my ic is smd. Or is my ic broken. Because of this i order new Attiny24a for test this situation.
@Marko Bandov thanks a lot for all your suggestions.
If you get rid of that cap between the primary and secondary side, does that mean that the tingle you get when you touch the output also goes away? I remember seeing that the tingle is due to this cap between pri/sec. Keen to have this cleared up though!
i have also torn down lenovo 1A charger, but it seems mine is a bit newer... its an old video but not that bad
If it’s not a dumb question; how does a fusible resistor differ from a normal resistor? Are there ways to test one from the other, and do they have different bands or ways to identify? Thanks!
It acts also as a fuse. It melts at a specific relatively low current.
fusible resistor works like normal resistor in normal circumstences and acts like fuse in case of short Circuit. Normal Resistor take some time in blowing up and Fusible resistor reaction is fast. Fusible Resistors are mostly Light Blue colored and rough appearence.(Not Shiny Finish)
I have some chargers from Aliexpress, like Baseus. Touching lightning (iPhone) charger cable tip gives a slight tingle, not shock, but unpleasant. Is it something like residual current that’s not filtered out or could it be something possibly dangerous?
Probably the capacitive current throught the Y1 capacitor.
@@DiodeGoneWild I received a no brand PD charger today, for my usb soldering iron (miniware ts80p). Touching the iron handle gives a burning tingle. Checked the gndiron body with Fluke, DC voltage 0.5V, AC 25-30V. Man, now I’m afraid to open and see what kind of horror is inside that charger.
I notice that my motorola phone from a few years ago uses the same type of charger.
There is no circuit diagram for this charger. I wish there is one!
Nice to know. Have several of those.
Than you, Diode, but I am suffering from schematic withdrawal 🙂
Without the plastic, the gap in the PCB is just "clearance". With the plastic, you get much more "creepage" 😁⚡
Hi, yes I agree, the clearance distance is across the air gap and to the primary and secondary points/track. The creepage distance is the path across the surface of the insulation to the primary and secondary circuit points/track.😀👍
at 7:37 can you please tell what machine you have used , or please someone refer me the video
This is a "no kurva" charger I have to get one!
Always awesome videos 😘😘
So are there any decently built fast chargers? Maybe Samsung makes good charging bricks as they’re a well known brand.
Damn, Lenovo sure went all out on this one.
On the secondary side the capacitor near the diode is a different type. Is that type more resistant to heat?
That is an polymer capacitor. A solid state aluminium capacitor. There is no electrolyte in it to dry out. It has lower esr than electrolytic, withstands higher temperatures and has longer life. But the package size for same capacity is larger when compared to electrolytic and is more expensive.
Interesting that it is 'vintage' enough to have leaded solder.
Can you try Alibaba brand
I like how you talk :)
Ahhh at last. A dryer for those with molten hair.
And that is how you should make it!
1080P 50 FPS... some gaming videos don't have this framerate!
The way you are recording and editing (both audio and picture) is very basic but yet your videos are much better to watch than at least 90% of videos about electronics.
And I say that as somebody who spends several hours a day doing some electronics, building and repairing devices.
Also... isn't the "interference inductor" actually a common mode filter?
The audio in this video had some kind of weird background noise in it. Like it was raining, or something. I kept pausing it to see if it was raining here.
@@1pcfred Yes true, it is probably just some noise where he is, but still the video was very enjoyable. And for a camera microphone this one is very good.
@@Zebra_Paw Maybe it was raining when he made the video? It sounded like rain hitting a roof to me. Could just be some kind of background noise too though? I must have paused the video a half a dozen times to see if the rain had picked up here. Then I was like no that sound is in the video.
Thanks :). Yes, it's a common mode one, as I mentioned at the end of the video. And the noise some of you mention comes from the camera (Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX15). This one has more hiss than the previous camera (Olympus XZ-10), yet the voice is way less distorted. And it has a sharper image than the previous camera at the same resolution. And it can do 24, 25, 30, 50 and 60fps. The previous camera only did 30fps.
@@DiodeGoneWild I don’t think it is such an issue, the quality is very goid for a camera microphone, but maybe you should consider using an external microphone or even record the voice separately…
13:56 Exactly how i count my pushups
Thank you for your videos! Please make a video showing us how to make the 24V 10A SMPS as a bench power supply with variable voltage. ( The one with TL494) thank you for your educational electronics videos !
Last week I opened a 6 year old Xiaomi 5V 1A charger, and it was very similar to this one. I didn't open the transformer though :)
But I wonder how the regulation works without feedback. Can chip sense secondary current via transformer, because it shuts down after 1A.
The video explains it somewhat. There is a 3rd winding called "Feedback Winding", in this device that's the outer-most winding on the transformer. The control chip knows the voltage input on the primary, and it gets a report back from the Feedback Winding about what is being induced on the secondary side.
The Feedback winding is much smaller than the Secondary winding, but it's voltage will follow the secondary voltage. So, when the secondary goes lower, the feedback winding also drops.
There is no current sensing used or needed. The control chip just monitors voltage (of the Feedback). If a load is placed on the secondary winding, it's voltage starts to drop (sag) so the control chip increases the pulse width (PWM) of the Primary to put more power in there.
At no load, it might only be 10% duty cycle, and at 500mA load it might need to have 60% duty to keep the voltage at 5.2V or whatever. The control chip just references everything from the Feedback winding.
As secondary current increases further, a point will come where the duty cycle hits 100% and there is no more power possible - that's the maximum rated current. The control IC will continue to monitor voltage of the Feedback winding and if it drops by (say) 10% from nominal, it will simply shut everything down.
@@johncoops6897 Now I now how sensing works in this charger, thanks to you kind sir for your time and effort :D