If your furnace starts, then stops (short cycles) then watch this video instead as it covers this in more detail. ruclips.net/video/b0sAGt-1niU/видео.html
Excellent and highly informative video which summarized natural gas heating system in a simple and easy way to understands. I am a mechanical engineer with extensive experience in natural gas burning systems and this video is one of the best I have seen about the subject. Thumb up to those who produced this video
Thank you Hazem, thank you for sharing your thoughts. Our in house video team works hard on these animations and its great to hear feedback like this. We recently created a series on gas water heater that you might find informative. If you give it a watch let us know what you think! ruclips.net/video/BHUPFLbb8NY/видео.html Cheers
I agree. I've watched tons of HVACR videos, and this is the best one on gas furnaces; it is very concise, easy to understand, and entertaining, to say the least.
This video saved me from a service call. I accidentally turned the switch off yesterday. Went down to check it, and sure enought, furnace is back up and blowing warm heat. Thank you
I'm so happy to find a great site for help and/or where to get it if nec..for a broke but grateful homeowner. You are a life saver! Now gonna look for how to fix stucco, and wether I need a foundation jack for basemnt
U are awesome for real . I am a mechanic almost 45 years , no more . But I have a little knowledge . I am trying to follow your teaching master . Wish me good luck .X mass .it is so cold here .🥶🙏🙌✌✟✟✟ .
You're welcome Verzula, we're glad that the video helped you out! Living in Canada we know first hand how crazy the winter can get, here in Edmonton we just got through 2 weeks of -30°C weather. All i can say is that it builds character haha
Thank you!! We're glad you found the video helpful and we appreciate the support! We have many more videos on our channel including a whole series on water heaters ruclips.net/video/BHUPFLbb8NY/видео.html Cheers!
You're welcome we're just happy to help! We might have some other videos that you might find helpful. We did a series on electrical components which are common between appliances and HVAC. It might be a good refresher on these concepts: ruclips.net/video/e_1pOWSVUfg/видео.html
I knew literally nothing about gas furnaces and have been scratching my head as to why my house heats up to the set temp, but then never turns back on once the temp drops below the set temp. Figured out after watching the vids it's most likely my limit switch. Was able to find and replace it and save myself a TON of money from having to call a professional. Thank you!
Great video, thank you! I have a Lennox that still will not light up. The code is off and slow flash- the cover says it's pressure switch or restricted exhaust vent. My inducer motor was getting very loud so I replaced the inducer motor and checked the flue for obstructions. Ran again for about three days after replacing the inducer motor and making sure there was no airflowrestrictions on the flue. I ordered and replaced the pressure switch even though the one there seemed to be fine after testing for resistance. Put on a new pressure switch and didn't want to turn on the ignitor, but then the ignitor turned on and a click coming from the gas valve released the gas and the burners fired up. Worked for about three days and now it's back to the same issue even after replacing the ignitor, checking continuity on the flame roll out sensors and the limit switch. Everything seems to check out after testing the pressure switch over and over, switch closes everytime the inducer motor turns on. I am alomst coming to a conclusion that the board is bad since it keeps giving me the code of a pressure switch, exhaust restriction even though the pressure switch is closed throughout the entire cycle before it shuts down. Do boards actually fail in this manner? Thank you again for this great video!
Thanks for watching. Your logic and process of elimination is solid, and it seems like you've done all the right steps to try to narrow down the problem. Control boards are tricky as they are a black box and not easily tested. It is difficult to actually narrow down problems within a control board, so if you've eliminated all other potential sources of problems, then replacing the control board is the best next step.
Thank you very much. Went out and bought a new HSI thinking that was the problem..turned out it was just some gunk and a bit of water in the pressure sensor tubing. Blew it out with compressed air and I'm back up and running!
You're welcome, we're glad that you were able to narrow down the problem. It doesn't hurt having an extra hot surface ignitor on hand as that is one part that is more likely to fail over time. Cheers!
Thank you Hugo, we're just happy to help. We have a video for the condensate pump: ruclips.net/video/dcLhyLu0-y8/видео.html But not for any condensate pans or other related parts from inside the furnace.
Thanks for watching! We haven't gotten too deep into the control board as there is a bit of variety and a layer of complexity best saved for service techs. We did do a video on Short Cycling which talks about error codes and different stages where the furnace can shut down. If you are curious its another good all around video. ruclips.net/video/b0sAGt-1niU/видео.html
Your videos are so good and informational. I have a question as recently my furnace was shutting down. I changed the flame sensor and ignition continued but when i close the flame housing, the furnace shuts down immediately. What would possibly be the problems
Thank you John, we're glad you're finding our videos helpful. Its likely that running the furnace with the cover open is giving it more air for combustion. Its worth cleaning the intake and exhaust pipes to ensure that nothing is restricting the airflow.
Great video. Does anyone know what would cause downstairs zone to blow cold air while upstairs zone blows hot air. Thermostat upstairs and downstairs are set to heat but still getting cold air downstairs. Is it a zone control/valve issue, thermostat, ductwork, air filter, or ignitor issue? Thanks
Hi Randy, thank you for watching. If you have a forced air furnace and multiple zones, then it likely uses a damper to control the airflow through the ducts to the zones. If the damper is stuck or the damper motor is faulty, then it will not open and hot air will not circulate into that zone. Since this is less common it's not something we cover in our videos.
My old Goodman furnace has a 2 stage vent motor. How does that work? If I stop the motor for a little bit the burners will light. If I don't stop the motor it will not light. Maybe the vent blower running to fast?
Thanks for watching. With a 2 stage inducer motor, there will be more than 1 pressure switch. There is a chance that one of the switches might be starting to wear out, stopping the motor might temporarily balance the pressure in one of those switches. Alternatively there could be something with the incoming our going pressure.
Hi! I’m having an issue where thermostat won’t reach to 68 degrees or above. I am thinking of troubleshooting it myself before calling a professional. Should I turn on the heater and let it shut off itself before trying to troubleshoot?
Thanks for watching. Before anything else it is best to make sure that your furnace filter is clean and that the air ducts are clear. Anything that prevents the transfer of heat might also cause this. It could also be an issue with the thermostat but if you're not certain it's still good to call a professional.
@@AmreSupply thank you for your reply! I am positively sure it can be the filter. It is brand new home and I have not replaced the filter in 2 and half year. If I wanted to check the flame sensor, should the thermostat be on off or on heat? Thank you again !
If you ever need to check the ignitor, clean the blower wheel or clean the flame sensor, then the furnace power should be turned off either at the breaker or directly at the power switch by the furnace. The flame sensor is not a temperature sensor. It's a flame proving device. It's just a metal rod that checks if there's a flame present. If your furnace lights, the flames stay lit for 7 seconds then it shuts off, then it's likely a dirty burner, dirty flame sensor or a bad connection.
Thanks for watching. There might be different certifications depending on where you live. Best thing would be to talk to a trades school for more information. They often have the most current resources on these sorts of things.
I know this is an old video but I hope you see this. What could be the issue if the fan only runs from the "on" switch on my thermostat and not the "auto" option? Ive been having to manually heat the house at night and I am exhausted lol
Thanks for watching. If the furnace only runs when the Thermostat fan is set to "on", then it could be an issue with the limit switch. This video explains it in more detail: ruclips.net/video/XrxV6I8C4yY/видео.html As well you can test and replace the limit switch follow the steps in this video: ruclips.net/video/0va_wvwfCBA/видео.html Hope this helps!
My furnace started smelling like burning wires at 1130pm after I was done at work one night. The motor is not spinning. I replaced the inducer, since our last inspection was told it was going out. After that I checked the bottom panel and all that burning smell was strong by the blower motor, circuit board and capacitor. Which would it be?
Thanks for watching. A smell like that is most likely coming from the motor. This video shows how to test the capacitor and replace the motor: ruclips.net/video/4SY8lRl8HV0/видео.html This would be best to eliminate before considering the circuit board.
Help me with this simple problem thanks heater comes on now and turns of. But but when it reaches set temputrture . Jeter never let it gets under 75 degrees that I set it it comes straight on never getting below 75 degrees is that normal
Hi Rich, just to clarify: you're saying that your home temperature always sits at 75 degrees and even when you set your thermostat to something lower (like 70 degrees)... the heater still comes on? If that's the case it sounds like your thermostat is the problem. If your thermostat is in a cold part of your home, then it might make the heater run even when the other rooms feel like they are at a warm temperature. Alternatively if you have an old bi-metallic strip thermostat, that uses mercury, check to see if it is level. If the thermostat is tilted, it could throw off the reading as the mercury will shift to one side. If you have an electronic thermostat, then replace the batteries and see if that helps. If you are considering getting new thermostat here's how to choose one: ruclips.net/video/NO5guc3vfV0/видео.html and how to install ruclips.net/video/XUi0rG1WYrI/видео.html
@@AmreSupply saying that when I set it to 75 degrees and when it reach 75 degree it stops and cycle starts again like 5 minutes and the temperature never really went down below 75 degrees .. it's it cause the thermal stat will nor let the house go below 75 degrees and the cycle starts again . When will the cycle end and not come on so often
Thanks for clarifying. Just a few questions: Is this a new problem, or has this done this during other winters?Have you replaced your furnace filter recently?How old is your furnace? What kind of thermostat do you have?
Is it possible for a furnace not to shoot an error code for something? I've got a code for a main limit switch and I've replaced that, but it's still shooting a code 22. After watching this video- it seems more like a pressure switch problem. Can I test a pressure switch with an OLM tester?
Hi Dana, thank you for watching. The pressure switch can be tested for continuity but it can be tricky as it depends on how the switch is wired and where in the system it is located. The switch will either be normally open NO or normally closed NC. A normally open switch will not have continuity at rest, and will only have continuity when it is pressurized. A normally closed switch has continuity, and will lose continuity when the pressure builds up. So you can test for the continuity but its difficult to test to see if you're getting enough pressure within the system.
Thanks for watching. If the gas valve is good, but there's no power being sent then you're right that it could be an issue with the control board. In that case the draft inducer should still run and start up before the gas valve opens, this means your furnace is still getting power. The control board is difficult to troubleshoot as there are many small components and capacitors etc on the board that can fail.
@@AmreSupply Thanks for replying. Yes, all the steps happen except gas going to the burners -- inducer, igniter then it tries 3x before I get the blinking lights. I guess I have to go contact a professional for the board issue.
@@d0uble0 We're happy to help. One last thing it can also be a faulty gas valve as solenoids can fail mechanically or electrically. Gas valve replacements are also best handled by a professional.
I have an Armstrong gas furnace that is giving me the Inducer ON Pressure Switch Open error code. The igniter lights, the flames light, but as soon as the blower turns on it creates a vacuum in the box and the pressure switch trips and shuts down the furnace. According to this video, I think I need to check the tubing going to the pressure switch (did that and it's good). I checked the condensate tube and it did have fluid in it so i cleared that, but it's still creating a vacuum. Im going to check the intake pipe next because I think the intake isn't keeping up with the blower. Ill update this with the result :)
Checked exhaust and intake pipes and the draft motor. No clogs... however the pressure switch is not the OEM one. It's a variable one. I've ordered a new OEM one. I'm going to install that in a couple of days.
Having a pressure switch with a different rating other than what your furnace is rated for can definitely cause it to shut off earlier, even when the pressure in the furnace is good.
Ok so, here's the final verdict. The heat exchanger was clogged with buildup of some sort and was starting to crack causing the difference in pressure in the combustion chamber which tripped the pressure switch (doing what its supposed to do). Solution was to get a new furnace. The price for the heat exchanger repair was about half of what the furnace would cost....
A cracked heat exchanger is definitely problematic and is not an easy thing to replace. Between the labour and the cost of parts it adds up quickly. At least with a new furnace there is some piece of mind that it'll be running smoothly. Thank you for sharing your updates.
My heater would start and flame for about 3 minutes and then stop but it still sounds the furnace is running but with no flames. It stays at like 55 degrees. When it reaches another time interval, it will reignite itself with the flames but it only last for like 3 minutes. I can't get it to reach 65 degrees because the flames keep going out after like 3 minutes. Could it be a faulty lux thermostat? Someone in the lux customer reviews had similar experience to me and it was the lux thermostat failing. Circuit breaker is good. I believe it is getting it's full power.
Thanks for watching. This could be an issue with the thermostat. However, since the furnace will run and continue to run without flames, that would indicate the blower fan is still running to cool down the heat exchanger before it shuts off. A faulty limit switch can cause that behavior. ruclips.net/video/0va_wvwfCBA/видео.html
@@Bflo23 Just remember the switch can wear down so even if it has continuity at room temperature this doesn't show you at what temperature it is opening at. Since limit switches can start to wear out (they use a bi-metallic disc inside) they can start opening at lower and lower temperatures. This won't show up in the continuity test (which will only test for a complete failure)
@@AmreSupply I bought a switch last night but I cleaned the old switch last night. It didn't make a difference immediately last night but then I decided to raise the override temp like 3am. I was hearing my heaters making that great hot water in the pipes sound that I haven't heard in a few days. Yay! I cancelled my thermostat order. I believe the limit switch was the problem as it had dust and grime around it. My heater has been working good now. I was gonna test it today but I don't want touch anything as it is working and then the heater possibly not working again. Haha. I got a new switch coming to me anyways that I can't cancel just in case the old switch goes bad. I got a boiler heater that must be like 35 years old and it is still working solid until a couple days ago. Thanks for your help. I appreciate your help just like many others here.
@@Bflo23 You're welcome! We're glad that you were able to narrow down the problem! It never hurts to have an extra switch on hand. All the best to you!
I have an intermittent issue with my heater. I can see my hot surface igniters glow and I see the gas ignite but then right after it ignite the flame goes out. I replaced my ignitor a few time already. So I don’t think that’s the issue. Any advice??
Hi Sal, thank you for watching. If your furnace ignites but the flames cut out within a few seconds then its likely an issue with your flame sensor. First try cleaning the flame sensor, and check the position, as it needs to sit in the flame to work properly. As well, you can check the connections to make sure there is no corrosion on the terminals connecting the flame sensor and the control board. If that doesn't help then replace the flame sensor. You can see how to do that here: ruclips.net/video/af_qRnfHFws/видео.html
@@humbertocardoso7777 Overall a couple extra minutes delay isn't problematic as long as it all runs normally afterwards. Now for the cause, it would depends on the type of furnace that you have. If you have an older model that uses a fan switch to detect the right temperature to start the blower fan, and a limit switch to shut the blower fan off, then those switches could be starting to wear down and lose their accuracy. Most modern furnaces and high efficiency models don't use a fan switch though, instead there is a delay set by the control board.
when I turn on my furnace it instantly starts blowing cold air w/o delay and never blows hot air. Would that be a problem with the ignitor or whatever is controlling the fan? Since the fan shouldn't be turning on until the air is warmed up in the furnace. I also tried setting the thermostat to a MUCH higher temperature than normally and noticed warm air come out of the vents for like a minute then go back to cold. Still need to test the ignitor and others, just leaving this comment here.
Thanks for watching. We actually made a video on the furnace blowing cold air. It can be a thermostat setting or an issue with the limit switch. You can see more in the video here: ruclips.net/video/XrxV6I8C4yY/видео.html
Thanks for watching. The furnace temp isn't exactly adjustable but there are a few things that can affect the temperature of the air coming out of the registers which should normally be 100°F-130°F. A clogged or dirty heat exchanger will not transfer as much heat to the air as it passes over. A wrong fan speed or improper air filter (if air moves too quickly over the heat exchanges, less heat is transferred) As well if the cold air return is in a cool part of the home then the furnace is supplied with air that will need to be heated up more. Insulating this can help.
Hi Lance, thank you for watching. Some people who have the knowledge and skill will test live voltage to see what its doing while the furnace is running. In our videos we do not cover live voltage testing for safety reasons. For safety, its always recommended to shut the furnace off before testing any switch or component.
Thanks for watching. It would be worth testing the new ignitor just to double check that it has the proper resistance and was not damaged in installation. ruclips.net/video/LAAYMOpVf-8/видео.html If the ignitor is good, then check that the connectors are secure and that the wires are not damaged. As well check the connection at the control board and look for any burn marks or signs of damage. If that all checks out then it could be an issue with the control board itself.
Thanks for watching. It could be an issue with your condensate pump, one of the connections or the condensate drain pain on the furnace itself: ruclips.net/video/dcLhyLu0-y8/видео.html
Hi Paul Bridgeman, although its common for the ignitor to burn out with normal use, there are a few things that can decrease the life of the ignitor. If one touches the element surface directly, as oils in the skin can create a hot spot on the ignitor so always hold the ignitor by the base. If excessive voltage is going to the ignitor it will decrease life. Additionally if the furnace cycles on and off repetitively, it will also decrease the life. Overall the type of ignitor can make a difference. When possible choose a Silicon Nitride ignitor as they are a little bit more robust.
My mother in law who is almost 80 years old lives in a trailer and has a MGHA-057ABFC-05 NORDYNE. She had a repairman out to the trailer a few times and has paid almost $900 so far for her furnace to be repaired and it's broken again, after the guy has been there 3 times and charged her $200 service fee everything for the same thing he said he fixed every time over the last 8 months. He replaced the entire gas valve unit, It has a pilot light but will not ignite. Any help or tips would really be appreciated As she's retired and lives on a fixed income.
Thanks for watching. If the gas valve was replaced but the pilot still won't light manually, then there might be an issue with the pilot assembly. If the pilot orifice is clogged, then it can restrict the flow of gas. We don't have a specific video on how to clean the pilot assembly but you'll need a small piece of wire as the orifice is quite small.
Thanks for watching. In this case, the hot surface ignitor should light up, the gas is released, and ignition should take place. If no ignition happens, then gas might not be getting to the burner. Check the gas shut off valve and make sure it's open. If there's still no ignition, then it could be a faulty gas valve, or a faulty connection to the gas valve. As well check to make sure the gas valve is set to "ON". This video shows a few things that you can check including the door switch and the condensate pump: ruclips.net/video/Bi76q0TzoW8/видео.htmlsi=AxkxV3R-e4TpGKTn
Oh...MAN! I have a Carrier gas HVAC system. The technician recently replaced a bad transformer. I've also had burnt out (New!) LED lights, clock radios, and an old microwave-a Kenmore that sucks anyway. The Problem?? You guessed it. BAD current. I had an electrician at my house. He said that this (early Sixties) house has an issue with corrosion in the outside conduit and meter box. The cost to fix this?? About $2500 American. I can swing it-but, that's not even the biggest problem. When I made an appointment with their receptionist, she said: "Sir, we can put you on our schedule for November 2nd. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot!! Some of their competitor are even Worse-they're booked up until Thanksgiving. Getting back to the furnace, I decided to DYI things, and ordered two transformers (one as a backup.) So-I install it (after crimping on swage connectors, and try to fire it up. The little blower fan for the burner-described in this video-goes on, but the gas doesn't light, and the fan doesn't come on. The manual fan switch does not work, either. I have a Generac to bypass the low voltage/dimming problem. You should have heard my refrigerator compressor trying to work with low voltage! Not Good-I have unplugged it, and will dump all the food. The Generac has issues, too. I have to transfer power manually with the breaker. Plus, it's noisy as Hell, and sits under my bedroom window. The other issue, of course, is that if the furnace won't work when it's cold, what's the USE?? I am writing these words from a Comfort Inn. OH-and my sump pump alarm is continually beeping. It DOES work when hooked up to Generator power, but will also need to be repaired. This SUCKS!!!
Thanks for watching and for sharing your experience. Having issue with your current is something that makes everything more difficult to address. Waiting 2 weeks for the current to be fixed is a tough situation to be in especially as temperatures get lower. If there is a bright side to this bad situation, this happening in October is still better than the middle of January. Hoping for the best for you.
What would cause your blower motor to instantly kick on when turn thermostat to heat? As soon as you turn it to heat the inducer motor comes on like it should, but the blower motor starts up at the same time and nothing else happens. No ignitor so therefore no flame. Just constant inducer and blower running. Error code says flame sensed with no call for heat, But there is no flame to sense
I had the same issue until I found the reset button on the flame rolloff switch. Check the video at 5:30. The ignitor started working again after the reset.
Hi Shawn Denney, Its odd that the inducer and blower are both running, but for safety sometimes the blowers can run out of sequence when the furnace is trying to clear fumes etc. If the flame rollout switch trips, it could cause that error code. Try to reset or replace the flame roll-out switch 5:30 or ruclips.net/video/23LGRraYUg0/видео.htmlm37s
My reset button was stiff and didn't give and I conducted a check with the multi-meter and there was also no continuity. I have ordered a new switch. Thank you for your video.
SAFETY STANDARDS ACT [SBC 2003] CHAPTER 39 63 A person must not do any of the following: a)assemble, manufacture, construct, test, install, operate, use, dispose of, maintain, repair or alter a regulated product contrary to this Act and the regulations;
Thanks for watching and for sharing that info. There is a variety of codes and regulations depending on where someone lives. Even in areas where repairs are only allowed by professionals, these videos can help inform people on how it works which lets them more properly communicate with a service technician. It also protects people against fraud as there are some that will take advantage of a homeowners ignorance to up-sell unnecessary repairs. This is where a second opinion can be helpful.
Thanks for watching. Most of our videos are geared towards homeowners so we don't have professional HVAC training. Our videos don't get into gas line repairs or installation of control valves or go into advance diagnostics or live voltage testing. We do have a few more troubleshooting videos that might have helpful graphics for you to visualize, this one is on short cycling: ruclips.net/video/b0sAGt-1niU/видео.html As well you might want to check you Greyfurnaceman. He has a good way of explaining various concepts: ruclips.net/channel/UCchpiPYTBEg4DpK6mKfYi2A Another good channel is this specifically for Techs, and there are some good lectures. ruclips.net/channel/UCdLlUhD9LUGm0-NTYDASPFAvideos
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
If your furnace starts, then stops (short cycles) then watch this video instead as it covers this in more detail. ruclips.net/video/b0sAGt-1niU/видео.html
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Hey thanks man! I cleaned the flame sensor and it fired right up for the first time in a month! Your a damn hero!!
You're welcome Tyler, we're just happy that the video helped you get it working again!
Excellent and highly informative video which summarized natural gas heating system in a simple and easy way to understands. I am a mechanical engineer with extensive experience in natural gas burning systems and this video is one of the best I have seen about the subject. Thumb up to those who produced this video
Thank you Hazem, thank you for sharing your thoughts. Our in house video team works hard on these animations and its great to hear feedback like this. We recently created a series on gas water heater that you might find informative. If you give it a watch let us know what you think! ruclips.net/video/BHUPFLbb8NY/видео.html Cheers
I agree. I've watched tons of HVACR videos, and this is the best one on gas furnaces; it is very concise, easy to understand, and entertaining, to say the least.
This video saved me hundreds of dollars. Thank you!
You're welcome Tyler! We're glad that the video helped you out!
This video saved me from a service call. I accidentally turned the switch off yesterday. Went down to check it, and sure enought, furnace is back up and blowing warm heat. Thank you
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
@@AmreSupply PS. liked and subscribed
@@ELBlDu Awesome! Thank you for the support we hope you find our other videos helpful: ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp
I'm so happy to find a great site for help and/or where to get it if nec..for a broke but grateful homeowner.
I'm so happy to find a great site for help and/or where to get it if nec..for a broke but grateful homeowner. You are a life saver! Now gonna look for how to fix stucco, and wether I need a foundation jack for basemnt
U are awesome for real . I am a mechanic almost 45 years , no more .
But I have a little knowledge . I am trying to follow your teaching master . Wish me good luck .X mass .it is so cold here .🥶🙏🙌✌✟✟✟
.
Thank you for your feedback, we're glad you're finding the videos helpful!
Thank you guys for creating this video! Flame sensor was dirty so cleaned it and now it's good. Chicago winters are horribke
You're welcome Verzula, we're glad that the video helped you out! Living in Canada we know first hand how crazy the winter can get, here in Edmonton we just got through 2 weeks of -30°C weather. All i can say is that it builds character haha
Maaan you’re not lyin’! My mom’s wouldnt run bc of a dirty air filter😶🌫️
Really great troubleshooting video. Excellent computer illustrations to help understand how the various troubleshooting parts do their job!!
Thank you for your positive feedback! It means a lot to our team to get comments like this!
Great and clear presentation. Please buy from these folks if you need parts as a way of giving back.
Thank you!! We're glad you found the video helpful and we appreciate the support! We have many more videos on our channel including a whole series on water heaters ruclips.net/video/BHUPFLbb8NY/видео.html Cheers!
Wealth of knowledge you shared with your subscribers. Thanks 🙏
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Great video. Thank you.
I just got into HVAC and boss wants to make me the service guy. Your videos are perfect. 🙏
You're welcome we're just happy to help! We might have some other videos that you might find helpful. We did a series on electrical components which are common between appliances and HVAC. It might be a good refresher on these concepts: ruclips.net/video/e_1pOWSVUfg/видео.html
Thank you so much for this video! I fixed my furnace thanks to you!!
You're welcome Ania, we're just happy to have helped!
I knew literally nothing about gas furnaces and have been scratching my head as to why my house heats up to the set temp, but then never turns back on once the temp drops below the set temp.
Figured out after watching the vids it's most likely my limit switch. Was able to find and replace it and save myself a TON of money from having to call a professional. Thank you!
Hi JPeeet, thank you for watching! We're glad the video helped you out and saved you money!
Great video, thank you! I have a Lennox that still will not light up. The code is off and slow flash- the cover says it's pressure switch or restricted exhaust vent. My inducer motor was getting very loud so I replaced the inducer motor and checked the flue for obstructions. Ran again for about three days after replacing the inducer motor and making sure there was no airflowrestrictions on the flue. I ordered and replaced the pressure switch even though the one there seemed to be fine after testing for resistance. Put on a new pressure switch and didn't want to turn on the ignitor, but then the ignitor turned on and a click coming from the gas valve released the gas and the burners fired up. Worked for about three days and now it's back to the same issue even after replacing the ignitor, checking continuity on the flame roll out sensors and the limit switch. Everything seems to check out after testing the pressure switch over and over, switch closes everytime the inducer motor turns on. I am alomst coming to a conclusion that the board is bad since it keeps giving me the code of a pressure switch, exhaust restriction even though the pressure switch is closed throughout the entire cycle before it shuts down. Do boards actually fail in this manner? Thank you again for this great video!
Thanks for watching. Your logic and process of elimination is solid, and it seems like you've done all the right steps to try to narrow down the problem. Control boards are tricky as they are a black box and not easily tested. It is difficult to actually narrow down problems within a control board, so if you've eliminated all other potential sources of problems, then replacing the control board is the best next step.
This helped me so much. Thank you!
You're welcome Riley, we're glad that it was helpful!
Thank you very much. Went out and bought a new HSI thinking that was the problem..turned out it was just some gunk and a bit of water in the pressure sensor tubing. Blew it out with compressed air and I'm back up and running!
You're welcome, we're glad that you were able to narrow down the problem. It doesn't hurt having an extra hot surface ignitor on hand as that is one part that is more likely to fail over time. Cheers!
A million thanks! A clump of snow fell on my exhaust vent.
You're welcome! Snow, leaves and even birds nests are all unexpected sources of problems for the exhaust so it's always good to check!
Thank you, you saved me $ and a cold family
You're welcome Romanello, we're glad to hear that the video helped you out! What in the end fixed your problem?
Thanks a bunch for the video. You guys saved me a lot of time and trouble.
You're welcome Stephen! We're glad the video helped you out!
Great video! Thank you! Any video for water leak from the collector box? I just tried to replace the gasket of my Goodman, but no luck. Thanks!
Thank you Hugo, we're just happy to help. We have a video for the condensate pump: ruclips.net/video/dcLhyLu0-y8/видео.html But not for any condensate pans or other related parts from inside the furnace.
Thank you so much for taking your time and share all this important information to us...I really appreciate
Thank you for sharing your positive feedback! We're glad you found it all helpful!
Good stuff exactly what I needed to get my furnace going again, much appreciated thanks!
Thanks for sharing Joshua Morales, we're happy to hear that the video helped you out!
please do a video on the control board thanks.
Thanks for watching! We haven't gotten too deep into the control board as there is a bit of variety and a layer of complexity best saved for service techs. We did do a video on Short Cycling which talks about error codes and different stages where the furnace can shut down. If you are curious its another good all around video. ruclips.net/video/b0sAGt-1niU/видео.html
Your videos are so good and informational.
I have a question as recently my furnace was shutting down. I changed the flame sensor and ignition continued but when i close the flame housing, the furnace shuts down immediately. What would possibly be the problems
Thank you John, we're glad you're finding our videos helpful. Its likely that running the furnace with the cover open is giving it more air for combustion. Its worth cleaning the intake and exhaust pipes to ensure that nothing is restricting the airflow.
Well done 👍
Thank you!
Good stuff __ very helpful. Thanks
You're welcome Karl, we're just happy to help!
Thank you so much I did exactly what you said and it worked...
Thanks for watching Juan. We're glad the video helped you get your furnace working again!
Great video. Does anyone know what would cause downstairs zone to blow cold air while upstairs zone blows hot air. Thermostat upstairs and downstairs are set to heat but still getting cold air downstairs. Is it a zone control/valve issue, thermostat, ductwork, air filter, or ignitor issue? Thanks
Hi Randy, thank you for watching. If you have a forced air furnace and multiple zones, then it likely uses a damper to control the airflow through the ducts to the zones. If the damper is stuck or the damper motor is faulty, then it will not open and hot air will not circulate into that zone.
Since this is less common it's not something we cover in our videos.
Thanks sr god bless you🙏👍
Thank you Rudy!
My old Goodman furnace has a 2 stage vent motor. How does that work? If I stop the motor for a little bit the burners will light. If I don't stop the motor it will not light. Maybe the vent blower running to fast?
Thanks for watching. With a 2 stage inducer motor, there will be more than 1 pressure switch. There is a chance that one of the switches might be starting to wear out, stopping the motor might temporarily balance the pressure in one of those switches. Alternatively there could be something with the incoming our going pressure.
Brilliant job
Thank you!
Hi! I’m having an issue where thermostat won’t reach to 68 degrees or above. I am thinking of troubleshooting it myself before calling a professional. Should I turn on the heater and let it shut off itself before trying to troubleshoot?
Thanks for watching. Before anything else it is best to make sure that your furnace filter is clean and that the air ducts are clear. Anything that prevents the transfer of heat might also cause this. It could also be an issue with the thermostat but if you're not certain it's still good to call a professional.
@@AmreSupply thank you for your reply! I am positively sure it can be the filter. It is brand new home and I have not replaced the filter in 2 and half year. If I wanted to check the flame sensor, should the thermostat be on off or on heat? Thank you again !
@@Compilationsdotcom1 You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
If you ever need to check the ignitor, clean the blower wheel or clean the flame sensor, then the furnace power should be turned off either at the breaker or directly at the power switch by the furnace.
The flame sensor is not a temperature sensor. It's a flame proving device. It's just a metal rod that checks if there's a flame present. If your furnace lights, the flames stay lit for 7 seconds then it shuts off, then it's likely a dirty burner, dirty flame sensor or a bad connection.
@@AmreSupply thank you for your advice will be working on it !!
What kind of class/course does guys take to work repairing utility equipment or to work for a gas company?
Thanks for watching. There might be different certifications depending on where you live. Best thing would be to talk to a trades school for more information. They often have the most current resources on these sorts of things.
@@AmreSupply Thanks.!!
@@geobany1533 You're welcome!
Great video!
Thank you Dan!
I know this is an old video but I hope you see this. What could be the issue if the fan only runs from the "on" switch on my thermostat and not the "auto" option? Ive been having to manually heat the house at night and I am exhausted lol
Thanks for watching. If the furnace only runs when the Thermostat fan is set to "on", then it could be an issue with the limit switch. This video explains it in more detail: ruclips.net/video/XrxV6I8C4yY/видео.html
As well you can test and replace the limit switch follow the steps in this video: ruclips.net/video/0va_wvwfCBA/видео.html
Hope this helps!
Thanks for this video.
You're welcome Don!
Great information
Thank you Sam!
My furnace started smelling like burning wires at 1130pm after I was done at work one night. The motor is not spinning. I replaced the inducer, since our last inspection was told it was going out. After that I checked the bottom panel and all that burning smell was strong by the blower motor, circuit board and capacitor. Which would it be?
Thanks for watching. A smell like that is most likely coming from the motor. This video shows how to test the capacitor and replace the motor: ruclips.net/video/4SY8lRl8HV0/видео.html This would be best to eliminate before considering the circuit board.
Help me with this simple problem thanks heater comes on now and turns of. But but when it reaches set temputrture . Jeter never let it gets under 75 degrees that I set it it comes straight on never getting below 75 degrees is that normal
Hi Rich, just to clarify: you're saying that your home temperature always sits at 75 degrees and even when you set your thermostat to something lower (like 70 degrees)... the heater still comes on? If that's the case it sounds like your thermostat is the problem.
If your thermostat is in a cold part of your home, then it might make the heater run even when the other rooms feel like they are at a warm temperature.
Alternatively if you have an old bi-metallic strip thermostat, that uses mercury, check to see if it is level. If the thermostat is tilted, it could throw off the reading as the mercury will shift to one side.
If you have an electronic thermostat, then replace the batteries and see if that helps.
If you are considering getting new thermostat here's how to choose one: ruclips.net/video/NO5guc3vfV0/видео.html and how to install ruclips.net/video/XUi0rG1WYrI/видео.html
@@AmreSupply saying that when I set it to 75 degrees and when it reach 75 degree it stops and cycle starts again like 5 minutes and the temperature never really went down below 75 degrees .. it's it cause the thermal stat will nor let the house go below 75 degrees and the cycle starts again . When will the cycle end and not come on so often
Thanks for clarifying. Just a few questions:
Is this a new problem, or has this done this during other winters?Have you replaced your furnace filter recently?How old is your furnace?
What kind of thermostat do you have?
Is it possible for a furnace not to shoot an error code for something? I've got a code for a main limit switch and I've replaced that, but it's still shooting a code 22. After watching this video- it seems more like a pressure switch problem. Can I test a pressure switch with an OLM tester?
Hi Dana, thank you for watching. The pressure switch can be tested for continuity but it can be tricky as it depends on how the switch is wired and where in the system it is located. The switch will either be normally open NO or normally closed NC. A normally open switch will not have continuity at rest, and will only have continuity when it is pressurized. A normally closed switch has continuity, and will lose continuity when the pressure builds up. So you can test for the continuity but its difficult to test to see if you're getting enough pressure within the system.
Is it the control board if there's no power going to the gas valve?
Thanks for watching. If the gas valve is good, but there's no power being sent then you're right that it could be an issue with the control board. In that case the draft inducer should still run and start up before the gas valve opens, this means your furnace is still getting power. The control board is difficult to troubleshoot as there are many small components and capacitors etc on the board that can fail.
@@AmreSupply Thanks for replying. Yes, all the steps happen except gas going to the burners -- inducer, igniter then it tries 3x before I get the blinking lights. I guess I have to go contact a professional for the board issue.
@@d0uble0 We're happy to help. One last thing it can also be a faulty gas valve as solenoids can fail mechanically or electrically. Gas valve replacements are also best handled by a professional.
I have an Armstrong gas furnace that is giving me the Inducer ON Pressure Switch Open error code. The igniter lights, the flames light, but as soon as the blower turns on it creates a vacuum in the box and the pressure switch trips and shuts down the furnace. According to this video, I think I need to check the tubing going to the pressure switch (did that and it's good). I checked the condensate tube and it did have fluid in it so i cleared that, but it's still creating a vacuum. Im going to check the intake pipe next because I think the intake isn't keeping up with the blower. Ill update this with the result :)
Thanks for sharing your experience William. For sure keep us posted with how it goes!
Checked exhaust and intake pipes and the draft motor. No clogs... however the pressure switch is not the OEM one. It's a variable one. I've ordered a new OEM one. I'm going to install that in a couple of days.
Having a pressure switch with a different rating other than what your furnace is rated for can definitely cause it to shut off earlier, even when the pressure in the furnace is good.
Ok so, here's the final verdict. The heat exchanger was clogged with buildup of some sort and was starting to crack causing the difference in pressure in the combustion chamber which tripped the pressure switch (doing what its supposed to do). Solution was to get a new furnace. The price for the heat exchanger repair was about half of what the furnace would cost....
A cracked heat exchanger is definitely problematic and is not an easy thing to replace. Between the labour and the cost of parts it adds up quickly. At least with a new furnace there is some piece of mind that it'll be running smoothly. Thank you for sharing your updates.
thanks so much
You're welcome!
Good advise.
Thank you Gary Boston! Glad you found it useful!
My heater would start and flame for about 3 minutes and then stop but it still sounds the furnace is running but with no flames. It stays at like 55 degrees. When it reaches another time interval, it will reignite itself with the flames but it only last for like 3 minutes. I can't get it to reach 65 degrees because the flames keep going out after like 3 minutes. Could it be a faulty lux thermostat? Someone in the lux customer reviews had similar experience to me and it was the lux thermostat failing. Circuit breaker is good. I believe it is getting it's full power.
Thanks for watching. This could be an issue with the thermostat. However, since the furnace will run and continue to run without flames, that would indicate the blower fan is still running to cool down the heat exchanger before it shuts off. A faulty limit switch can cause that behavior. ruclips.net/video/0va_wvwfCBA/видео.html
@@AmreSupply Thanks. I see it. Easier to try that than replace the thermostat. I am gonna test it tomorrow. It is a microtemp 4d4300d 152c.
@@Bflo23 Just remember the switch can wear down so even if it has continuity at room temperature this doesn't show you at what temperature it is opening at. Since limit switches can start to wear out (they use a bi-metallic disc inside) they can start opening at lower and lower temperatures. This won't show up in the continuity test (which will only test for a complete failure)
@@AmreSupply I bought a switch last night but I cleaned the old switch last night. It didn't make a difference immediately last night but then I decided to raise the override temp like 3am. I was hearing my heaters making that great hot water in the pipes sound that I haven't heard in a few days. Yay! I cancelled my thermostat order. I believe the limit switch was the problem as it had dust and grime around it. My heater has been working good now. I was gonna test it today but I don't want touch anything as it is working and then the heater possibly not working again. Haha. I got a new switch coming to me anyways that I can't cancel just in case the old switch goes bad. I got a boiler heater that must be like 35 years old and it is still working solid until a couple days ago. Thanks for your help. I appreciate your help just like many others here.
@@Bflo23 You're welcome! We're glad that you were able to narrow down the problem! It never hurts to have an extra switch on hand. All the best to you!
I have an intermittent issue with my heater. I can see my hot surface igniters glow and I see the gas ignite but then right after it ignite the flame goes out. I replaced my ignitor a few time already. So I don’t think that’s the issue. Any advice??
Hi Sal, thank you for watching. If your furnace ignites but the flames cut out within a few seconds then its likely an issue with your flame sensor. First try cleaning the flame sensor, and check the position, as it needs to sit in the flame to work properly. As well, you can check the connections to make sure there is no corrosion on the terminals connecting the flame sensor and the control board. If that doesn't help then replace the flame sensor. You can see how to do that here: ruclips.net/video/af_qRnfHFws/видео.html
Hi.... my blower fan take longer time to start than before....... after the blower starts everything is normal...any advise....?
Hi Humberto, do you mean the blower fan is delayed a few extra minutes? Or do you mean that the blower fan motor is slow to start turning?
AMRE Supply the blower fan is delayed a couple extra minutes if i compare what it was before.
And thanks for your answer....
@@humbertocardoso7777 Overall a couple extra minutes delay isn't problematic as long as it all runs normally afterwards.
Now for the cause, it would depends on the type of furnace that you have. If you have an older model that uses a fan switch to detect the right temperature to start the blower fan, and a limit switch to shut the blower fan off, then those switches could be starting to wear down and lose their accuracy. Most modern furnaces and high efficiency models don't use a fan switch though, instead there is a delay set by the control board.
when I turn on my furnace it instantly starts blowing cold air w/o delay and never blows hot air. Would that be a problem with the ignitor or whatever is controlling the fan? Since the fan shouldn't be turning on until the air is warmed up in the furnace.
I also tried setting the thermostat to a MUCH higher temperature than normally and noticed warm air come out of the vents for like a minute then go back to cold.
Still need to test the ignitor and others, just leaving this comment here.
Thanks for watching. We actually made a video on the furnace blowing cold air. It can be a thermostat setting or an issue with the limit switch. You can see more in the video here: ruclips.net/video/XrxV6I8C4yY/видео.html
furnace typically adjustable? I feel like my furnace should be producing warmed air.
Thanks for watching. The furnace temp isn't exactly adjustable but there are a few things that can affect the temperature of the air coming out of the registers which should normally be 100°F-130°F.
A clogged or dirty heat exchanger will not transfer as much heat to the air as it passes over.
A wrong fan speed or improper air filter (if air moves too quickly over the heat exchanges, less heat is transferred)
As well if the cold air return is in a cool part of the home then the furnace is supplied with air that will need to be heated up more. Insulating this can help.
Test voltage at the switch?
Hi Lance, thank you for watching. Some people who have the knowledge and skill will test live voltage to see what its doing while the furnace is running. In our videos we do not cover live voltage testing for safety reasons. For safety, its always recommended to shut the furnace off before testing any switch or component.
Very helpful
Thank you Teferi, we're glad you found it helpful!
New ignitor will not light?
Thanks for watching. It would be worth testing the new ignitor just to double check that it has the proper resistance and was not damaged in installation. ruclips.net/video/LAAYMOpVf-8/видео.html
If the ignitor is good, then check that the connectors are secure and that the wires are not damaged. As well check the connection at the control board and look for any burn marks or signs of damage. If that all checks out then it could be an issue with the control board itself.
Hello I am having lots of water on the floor under the furnace .
Thanks for watching. It could be an issue with your condensate pump, one of the connections or the condensate drain pain on the furnace itself: ruclips.net/video/dcLhyLu0-y8/видео.html
Why does the igniter keep burning out
Hi Paul Bridgeman, although its common for the ignitor to burn out with normal use, there are a few things that can decrease the life of the ignitor. If one touches the element surface directly, as oils in the skin can create a hot spot on the ignitor so always hold the ignitor by the base. If excessive voltage is going to the ignitor it will decrease life. Additionally if the furnace cycles on and off repetitively, it will also decrease the life. Overall the type of ignitor can make a difference. When possible choose a Silicon Nitride ignitor as they are a little bit more robust.
Thanks!
You're welcome Carol!
My mother in law who is almost 80 years old lives in a trailer and has a MGHA-057ABFC-05 NORDYNE.
She had a repairman out to the trailer a few times and has paid almost $900 so far for her furnace to be repaired and it's broken again, after the guy has been there 3 times and charged her $200 service fee everything for the same thing he said he fixed every time over the last 8 months.
He replaced the entire gas valve unit, It has a pilot light but will not ignite.
Any help or tips would really be appreciated As she's retired and lives on a fixed income.
Thanks for watching. If the gas valve was replaced but the pilot still won't light manually, then there might be an issue with the pilot assembly. If the pilot orifice is clogged, then it can restrict the flow of gas. We don't have a specific video on how to clean the pilot assembly but you'll need a small piece of wire as the orifice is quite small.
it won't light. I can get it to try a lot by activating the pancake switch the vacuum switch but it won't light anymore
Thanks for watching. If your furnace won't light, then it's worth testing the hot surface ignitor: ruclips.net/video/LAAYMOpVf-8/видео.html
What if it is working but making a lot of noise(the fan)?
Hi Maureen, we made a video on furnace noises with examples that might be helpful to you! ruclips.net/video/WkHgeTITioE/видео.html
my furnace flame never turn on, I cleaned flame censor and replaced pressure switch
Thanks for watching. In this case, the hot surface ignitor should light up, the gas is released, and ignition should take place. If no ignition happens, then gas might not be getting to the burner. Check the gas shut off valve and make sure it's open. If there's still no ignition, then it could be a faulty gas valve, or a faulty connection to the gas valve. As well check to make sure the gas valve is set to "ON". This video shows a few things that you can check including the door switch and the condensate pump: ruclips.net/video/Bi76q0TzoW8/видео.htmlsi=AxkxV3R-e4TpGKTn
Oh...MAN! I have a Carrier gas HVAC system. The technician recently replaced a bad transformer. I've also had burnt out (New!) LED lights, clock radios, and an old microwave-a Kenmore that sucks anyway. The Problem?? You guessed it. BAD current. I had an electrician at my house. He said that this (early Sixties) house has an issue with corrosion in the outside conduit and meter box. The cost to fix this?? About $2500 American. I can swing it-but, that's not even the biggest problem. When I made an appointment with their receptionist, she said: "Sir, we can put you on our schedule for November 2nd. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot!! Some of their competitor are even Worse-they're booked up until Thanksgiving.
Getting back to the furnace, I decided to DYI things, and ordered two transformers (one as a backup.) So-I install it (after crimping on swage connectors, and try to fire it up. The little blower fan for the burner-described in this video-goes on, but the gas doesn't light, and the fan doesn't come on. The manual fan switch does not work, either.
I have a Generac to bypass the low voltage/dimming problem. You should have heard my refrigerator compressor trying to work with low voltage! Not Good-I have unplugged it, and will dump all the food. The Generac has issues, too. I have to transfer power manually with the breaker. Plus, it's noisy as Hell, and sits under my bedroom window. The other issue, of course, is that if the furnace won't work when it's cold, what's the USE?? I am writing these words from a Comfort Inn.
OH-and my sump pump alarm is continually beeping. It DOES work when hooked up to Generator power, but will also need to be repaired.
This SUCKS!!!
Thanks for watching and for sharing your experience. Having issue with your current is something that makes everything more difficult to address. Waiting 2 weeks for the current to be fixed is a tough situation to be in especially as temperatures get lower. If there is a bright side to this bad situation, this happening in October is still better than the middle of January. Hoping for the best for you.
Ty nice video
Thanks Jonathan Raul!
What would cause your blower motor to instantly kick on when turn thermostat to heat?
As soon as you turn it to heat the inducer motor comes on like it should, but the blower motor starts up at the same time and nothing else happens.
No ignitor so therefore no flame.
Just constant inducer and blower running.
Error code says flame sensed with no call for heat, But there is no flame to sense
I had the same issue until I found the reset button on the flame rolloff switch.
Check the video at 5:30. The ignitor started working again after the reset.
Hi Shawn Denney, Its odd that the inducer and blower are both running, but for safety sometimes the blowers can run out of sequence when the furnace is trying to clear fumes etc. If the flame rollout switch trips, it could cause that error code. Try to reset or replace the flame roll-out switch 5:30 or ruclips.net/video/23LGRraYUg0/видео.htmlm37s
Thank you for sharing your experience Mike Thompson. Since there are so many different scenarios, its always helpful to hear what has worked.
My reset button was stiff and didn't give and I conducted a check with the multi-meter and there was also no continuity. I have ordered a new switch. Thank you for your video.
You're welcome Not Your Average Nerds, glad the video was helpful!
SAFETY STANDARDS ACT
[SBC 2003] CHAPTER 39
63 A person must not do any of the following:
a)assemble, manufacture, construct, test, install, operate, use, dispose of, maintain, repair or alter a regulated product contrary to this Act and the regulations;
Thanks for watching and for sharing that info. There is a variety of codes and regulations depending on where someone lives. Even in areas where repairs are only allowed by professionals, these videos can help inform people on how it works which lets them more properly communicate with a service technician. It also protects people against fraud as there are some that will take advantage of a homeowners ignorance to up-sell unnecessary repairs. This is where a second opinion can be helpful.
"then call a professional"....
lol
so, I call myself?
Do you guys offer any videos geared towards professionals?
Thanks for watching. Most of our videos are geared towards homeowners so we don't have professional HVAC training. Our videos don't get into gas line repairs or installation of control valves or go into advance diagnostics or live voltage testing.
We do have a few more troubleshooting videos that might have helpful graphics for you to visualize, this one is on short cycling: ruclips.net/video/b0sAGt-1niU/видео.html
As well you might want to check you Greyfurnaceman. He has a good way of explaining various concepts: ruclips.net/channel/UCchpiPYTBEg4DpK6mKfYi2A
Another good channel is this specifically for Techs, and there are some good lectures. ruclips.net/channel/UCdLlUhD9LUGm0-NTYDASPFAvideos
I'm
Thanks for watching.