@@biggregsparks8364 l can almost guarantee that the stock valve springs will not support a cam with this kind of lift and duration I'm assuming he purchased a cam kit that comes with matching valve springs and probably replaced the lifters and replaced the stock pushrods with hardened ones if it has over 75,000 miles probably replaced the timing chain oil pump and this cam will most likely need a good SFI harmonic balancer the stock LS3 harmonic balancers are not known to like repeated 6500rpm+ revving this cam listed I'm assuming should pull 7200rpm because my LS3 has a GM performance hot cam with only 219 duration intake and 228 duration exhaust with only 525 lift and it turns 6600rpm very strong and is a fairly mild camshaft this cam is at the limit of the factory LS3 valve springs going with something with more duration and lift will require stiffer or better valve springs or you'll have valve float at high rpm that will destroy your investment
I built three engines what I was meaning was if he did the valve springs with the motor and heads installed inside the car or pull them off and did the valve springs on a bench my Gen 2 LT1 cars are almost impossible to do them in car since the motor sit so far back up under the windshield
@@biggregsparks8364 sorry misunderstood your question never did it so l haven't got a single clue but now that you mentioned it fucking with the engine in the car with how far the engine is rammed against the firewall l could see it being a huge pain in the ass I'm no mechanic good luck with it I'm on my second LS powered car and basically have purchased 3 complete crate engines because of the cost of paying a knowledgeable mechanic to upgrades is so expensive that for me it's more cost effective to buy a new crate engine with most of the upgrades I'm wanting l rely mostly with SDPC parts center they generally will take a stock crate engine and upgrade things you want without charging you a arm and a leg I've been very happy with everything I've purchased from them so far for me to purchase 1500 in upgrades and pay another 1000+ for someone to install it is not cost effective for me l can have someone pull it out sell it for 2500 and purchase a new crate engine for 5500 and transfer accessories over having a brand new engine
how difficult was it to install inner engine pieces? (cam, valve springs, etc) and would you say the na build was worth the money/time/energy? hows the car holding up to the power? I'm planning doing same build i would love to know your opinion.
I’ve worked on these cars for a long time so not very difficult at all there are very many videos on RUclips that go step by step and explains how to do everything, the valvesprings I normally have the machine shop install since I normally have the heads milled/resurfaced anytime I take them off, I’m this case the car had 75k miles so I replaced lifters with ls7 lifters. Honestly one of the headrest things for me on these cars is changing the oil pump at least getting to the one little bolt that holds the pick up tube to the oil pump without having to drop the oil pan a few inches. Found few tricks over the years though I Normally tie fishing line around the bolt as I’m putting it in or pulling it out so it doesn’t fall into oil pan. I tried to upgrade as much stuff as possible with the budget I have and continue to add to the car as I go. I have yet to really launch the car at a track. If I had to guess the rear end and or axles would shatter to pieces lol. As far as power to money I mean I gained 100whp the cars fun as hell and it’s much cheaper than going turbo or supercharger. Car gets a lot of attention sitting at stop lights with the aggressive idle. If I had to guess I probably picked up a couple mph and about .5 sec to a second off 1/4 mile time. I know it’s alot hope I answered you questions. Thanks.
@@davidb5299 at the moment I don’t have anything else I want to do to it. If I were to do anything probably buy a zl1 blower kit to add on. I’ve got my 01 TA I plan to turn into my serious race car though.
The coils and wires are beautiful
Almost the exact same mods as mine! Sounds good man 👍
Thing probably makes right around 500whp. Badazz👊🏾💪🏾👊🏾💪🏾🔥🔥🔥
Hi how much milling of the heads did you get away with? Ptv clearance would have been tight?
I believe it was 3 thousandths. It wasn’t much just had them resurfaced.
do you know what lift cam? duration tells half the story. thank you. sounds mean
231/246 .640"/615" 111 LSA
@@westonlennen thanks for reply bud. did you do valvesprings in car? I have a 2011 6 speed
@@biggregsparks8364 l can almost guarantee that the stock valve springs will not support a cam with this kind of lift and duration I'm assuming he purchased a cam kit that comes with matching valve springs and probably replaced the lifters and replaced the stock pushrods with hardened ones if it has over 75,000 miles probably replaced the timing chain oil pump and this cam will most likely need a good SFI harmonic balancer the stock LS3 harmonic balancers are not known to like repeated 6500rpm+ revving this cam listed I'm assuming should pull 7200rpm because my LS3 has a GM performance hot cam with only 219 duration intake and 228 duration exhaust with only 525 lift and it turns 6600rpm very strong and is a fairly mild camshaft this cam is at the limit of the factory LS3 valve springs going with something with more duration and lift will require stiffer or better valve springs or you'll have valve float at high rpm that will destroy your investment
I built three engines what I was meaning was if he did the valve springs with the motor and heads installed inside the car or pull them off and did the valve springs on a bench my Gen 2 LT1 cars are almost impossible to do them in car since the motor sit so far back up under the windshield
@@biggregsparks8364 sorry misunderstood your question never did it so l haven't got a single clue but now that you mentioned it fucking with the engine in the car with how far the engine is rammed against the firewall l could see it being a huge pain in the ass I'm no mechanic good luck with it I'm on my second LS powered car and basically have purchased 3 complete crate engines because of the cost of paying a knowledgeable mechanic to upgrades is so expensive that for me it's more cost effective to buy a new crate engine with most of the upgrades I'm wanting l rely mostly with SDPC parts center they generally will take a stock crate engine and upgrade things you want without charging you a arm and a leg I've been very happy with everything I've purchased from them so far for me to purchase 1500 in upgrades and pay another 1000+ for someone to install it is not cost effective for me l can have someone pull it out sell it for 2500 and purchase a new crate engine for 5500 and transfer accessories over having a brand new engine
What exhaust are you running
Did you ever get numbers on how much power you made to the wheels on a dyno after tune?
485rwhp and 448rwtq you can see it on my channel
how difficult was it to install inner engine pieces? (cam, valve springs, etc) and would you say the na build was worth the money/time/energy? hows the car holding up to the power? I'm planning doing same build i would love to know your opinion.
I’ve worked on these cars for a long time so not very difficult at all there are very many videos on RUclips that go step by step and explains how to do everything, the valvesprings I normally have the machine shop install since I normally have the heads milled/resurfaced anytime I take them off, I’m this case the car had 75k miles so I replaced lifters with ls7 lifters. Honestly one of the headrest things for me on these cars is changing the oil pump at least getting to the one little bolt that holds the pick up tube to the oil pump without having to drop the oil pan a few inches. Found few tricks over the years though I Normally tie fishing line around the bolt as I’m putting it in or pulling it out so it doesn’t fall into oil pan. I tried to upgrade as much stuff as possible with the budget I have and continue to add to the car as I go. I have yet to really launch the car at a track. If I had to guess the rear end and or axles would shatter to pieces lol. As far as power to money I mean I gained 100whp the cars fun as hell and it’s much cheaper than going turbo or supercharger. Car gets a lot of attention sitting at stop lights with the aggressive idle. If I had to guess I probably picked up a couple mph and about .5 sec to a second off 1/4 mile time. I know it’s alot hope I answered you questions. Thanks.
@@westonlennen thank you.
@@westonlennen wanted to ask, are you going to boost the car on top of the na build you already have? I feel like it would put up some serious numbers
@@davidb5299 at the moment I don’t have anything else I want to do to it. If I were to do anything probably buy a zl1 blower kit to add on. I’ve got my 01 TA I plan to turn into my serious race car though.