2006 Mercedes ML350 Alternator Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 3 дек 2020
- I show you step by step how to replace the alternator on a Mercedes Benz ML350, I demonstrate on my 2006, but this video will apply to a lot of other Mercedes models and a range of years that use the same or very similar alternator setup. I do hope you found this video helpful, please subscribe as I have a lot more Mercedes repair videos coming. Also check out the links below for some related videos you may find helpful.
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Fantastic video with lots of “common sense” tips for amateurs that many videos don’t feature. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Great to hear, thanks for the feedback.
Nice video. I live in upstate NY and know how cold can affect plastic, tools, and of course, the fingers. So hard to work on things with gloves. Thanks for posting and be safe.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
THANK YOU
Thank you for the video!!! Great video..
Thanks for the feedback, have a great weekend!(-:
Well Done !!!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback!(-:
excellent video. well spoken. very clear in understanding the steps. Question, how do i move the front passenger seat forward to disconnect if my battery is completely dead?
You will need to power up the vehicle using the booster ports under the hood, I show them in the video. Thanks for the feedback!(-:
@DMV 750 Sorry I just realized I didn’t show those ports in this video, I did in my other video on changing the battery. Just the two ports under the hood on the right side just along the fender, The one has a red plastic cover and the other one is just painted black I believe and has some brown wires going to it. Just run booster cables from another live vehicle or battery.
Thanks Matt. But we tried that already. Just found out that i need a new alternator and battery. We just cant figure out how to power up
It’s good that you figured that out before you put the new battery in and caused damage to it by not having a proper charge... Yes in some cases your battery may have a short in it, so even if you tried to power up the car it will draw all the power, so in that case you may have to unbolt the seat to access the battery.
@@CarswithNash hey Matt, your comments make sense. Thank you very much.
Hi. Nice video. I just performed this on my 2010 ML350 Bluetec. Very similar procedure. However, after installing the replacement, it doesn't charge the battery. I scanned and it said there's "no LIN message from Component G2 (Generator)...." which is the alternator". I reinstalled my old alternator and got the same code. This code wasn't there before I removed the original alternator... the bad one. Is there something I'm missing? I'm guessing the computer communicates with the alternator, and turns it on/regulates the voltage. Any idea what to do when it isn't communicating anymore after removal?
I assume you did a full battery disconnect when you changed it? There is a reset procedure after you reconnect the battery but that is typically more for the windows to calibrate and the steering sensor etc., I do have a video on it but it doesn’t sound like that is your issue. Is it an off brand alternator? Sorry, I wish I could help more but it’s not an issue I have actually ever heard of. The vehicle might run a self diagnostics when it first starts to check all the components and for some reason it’s not recognizing the new alternator, it’s just confusing that your old one is no longer working either.
@@CarswithNash Yeah that's what got me stumped is that the old one now throws the same code when it didn't prior to removal. Even if it isn't working, I would imagine it would be recognized by the ECU/PCM. Yes, I did unplug the negative battery terminal prior to removing and replacing. Same with the negative alternator terminal. Funny thing is, I read 12 volts at the communication/starter connector that plugs into the alternator, so I'm fairly sure the wiring is ok. Just wondering why no message is being sent back. My replacement unit is used, so I'm going to take it back and get another. Just confused by the fact that my current unit is now throwing the same code when I've used it in this same vehicle for years.
Thanks for the reply.
@@pmo3448 I’m not sure what you’re paying for a used one but the Bosch one I got from Rockauto was only $300 if I recall and I’m in Canada so it would be cheaper yet if you are in the US. Bosch is who made the original ones so that is a pretty good deal for a OEM brand new unit. Good luck, if you come up with some sort of a solution could you please reply back here and that way if someone else is having the same issue I have the answer for them.
@@CarswithNash So here's the update. It turns out I had a brain fart moment. I failed to mention that after my alternator failed, I opened it up and cleaned it to see if it'll work. Apparently, I missed one of the screws for the voltage regulator while putting it back together. That screw, I've now realized, is important. I believe it was B+. So without that screw, the alternator couldn't communicate with the car's ecm. These things have become really complicated over the years! So anyway, yes my alternator was bad, but it should have still communicated with the car, and that was the reason why it could not.
Anyway, I found a guy that fixes alternators and he fixed mine. The diodes were out so he replaced them or something. Now it's working fine and "communicating" with the ecm now that all screws are in tact.
As for the replacement alternator I bought, I'm not sure why it didn't work. My guess is that it might have had the wrong voltage regulator for my car, hence the failure to communicate.
And why don't I just buy a new alternator? Well, I live in Nigeria, and brand new parts for my car are extremely rare. I would have to order it from the US, for example. And with how heavy alternators are, I would be spending a lot more than 300 bucks when shipping is included... not to mention the amount of time I would have to wait before it gets delivered.
Thanks for your video and time!
@@pmo3448 I’m glad it was a simple fix for you. Yes I can totally understand your situation then, it is similar for us in Canada, here we pay about 3 times what they do for parts in the US by the time I get something shipped to my door.
Have you considered changing the alternator pulley? I find it's usually the problem. Auto Zone rents the tools the separate the pulley in the US. You just need a license and $20.00 which is refunded when you return the tool kit.
I can’t see how that could possibly be the problem… Normally the regulator wears out around 100,000 miles which was what this unit was at and that was why I replaced it.