You can really slather this stuff on, let it sit for a bit, then wipe off the extra. Doing so allows you to use a large brush and speeds things up drastically, depending on the look you're going for. Try it on a model you don't care about first, I promise you'll like the results.
I use this method. It really works well and adds a layer of depth I could never get from shades. I clear coat my models with Pledge Revive-It through an airbrush before applying the wash.
I have been experimenting with panel-lining space marines with and without gloss varnish. The varnish makes everything 'work,' like you said Lee, it reduces surface tension. The trick is, as you have demonstrated, you have to do these in a batch otherwise it's terribly labour intensive. Smashing video as always, always looking forward to the next one! Cheers
Nice one, I will definitely be trying this on some Space Marines. Will try the 'cover it then wipe some off' method and panel lining with varnish. Thanks!
I received my oil paints yesterday, but I have yet to test them. I watched Ninjon use oils while speed painting Necrons, and I was upset at how good they looked 😂 I’m probably trying oil washes on the minis for Zombicide Black Plague, that I’m painting after I’m done with Bardsung.
Thank you so much for sharing this technique, and breaking down the details that go into it! I have been wanting to try this, but couldn't find anyone explaining exactly how until finally seeing your video. Excellent work! 😊
I tried artist turpentine and mineral spirit is much better. Firstly, turpentine is extremely smelly. It took a good day to get rid of the smell from my hobby place. It also slightly melts my acrylic paint on the mini. If I rub it too much, it removed the acrylic which is not good. Mineral spirits solved both these. It is smelly but not terribly, and it does not touch the acrylic base paints. Lastly, turpentine is extremely toxic, dangerous and needs special care. I used about 3ml and after about 5 minutes I started getting nausea so I had to continue in gas filter mask. I'd advise against artist thinners :)
If anyone wants to try this, you can get something called panel of her [edit: dagnabbit autocorrect, panel liner] or pin washes from scale modeling stuff, but make sure you get white spirits too! I have a Tamiya one, and it worked great, but not having white spirits I couldn't clean it up, and so I got a bit splotchy because I wasn't as careful. Once you do have it, a qtip and a tiny bit of white spirit can clean all of it off letting you really control it. Also you dont need to gloss the models first. Especially since I've gone through three kinda of matte varnish trying to make my 'mechs not look like they're covered in butter. But looks cool, thanks for showing off how well it has worked and your experimenting to get it ready. I am curious how well it lasts in the pot; I have some dropper bottles I could use and I just picked up my own black and brown oils to make it, but I actually never thought about making it and storing for later.
@@tabletopskirmishgames it's definitely good, but I think if you're already at the point of making your own, it's not any better, though the container does keep it effectively. It's brush is nowhere near as good as the one for the plastic cement, and so either you have to get white spirits to clean it up afterwards, or white spirits to clean the brush you use instead of it. I just have the black one, though if there is a special color or something matching more towards scale modelers I could see it's value. But it is a good value for someone who just wants to try it, since the consistency is already dialed in.
@@magnus0017 Good to hear about the Tamiya Panel Liner - I have it on hand, but yet to try it out. (Hello exam timetable and on-call shifts!) Do you think the panel liner is fine enough to use on space marines? I was expecting the brush to be pointed, but it's perhaps too broad for space marine details? I have a few synthetic brushes set aside for the task just in case. Also, what matte varnish worked best for you to seal the Tamiya / overcome the oily finish?
@@traceofwind Sorry for the delay, busy day. So, short answer, don't worry about the varnish, the Tamiya is fine for what you want to do. Now, the long answer: The tamiya panel liner is good; it's consistent, and it's nice and fluid. The brush that comes with it is a little chonky, though that might mostly be because it was designed for scale modelers and tanks and the like, where the size is less problematic. I would recommend using a separate brush, as it's a little neater, but it's absolutely not needed. The brush included will work. For Space Marines it's totally fine, it will work best in grooves and the location where two sections meet in a crevice. So, the gaps between panels, the raised details on the insignia, the vents and grooves in the backpack and weapon. It will work least well on the shoulder pads, since there's only one edge, but it will follow it, just not as well and will spill a bit around the pad (not, it will spill over the whole thing, but you won't get quite a clean line). Using the bottle's brush will totally work, just expect to clean it a bit, which, honestly, isn't hard as long as you have the tools (which I didn't the first time). On the varnish: I used gloss varnish on mine first, then put it on, but i wasn't able to get something to matte it back down. And, honestly, it wasn't worth the struggle of varnishing first, then panel liner, then trying to matte down, even if it did work. I haven't done many more with it without varnishing (working on something which I didn't want to use it), but without the gloss varnish first, the oil isn't too shiny? I would say a regular matte varnish would probably work. I've tried Liquitex, AK's regular matte (their Ultra-super-dooper-mega-ultimate matte varnish or whatever it's called is supposed to be better, but I bought the wrong one. -_- ), and they're fine, I wouldn't worry too much, but they can't overcome an all over coat of AP gloss varnish. Most importantly though, have white spirits. Once you have that, you can clean it up with that and a q-tip. With that, it really doesn't matter what brush you use to do it, the bottle's or your own, and it's not something you need to rush to do before it dries or anything. So, I would say, grab some white spirits to clean, shake the bottle before using, but then just go for it. Goobertown Hobbies did a good testing of the different types specifically for blacklining. I probably won't get more Tamiya once i (eventually) use it up, as it's just a consistent oil wash, but if you have it, it's perfectly good. I wouldn't use it to do some of the things I've seen other RUclipsr's do of totally oil washing everything, then selectively cleaning it to make a grungy look, (a la Ninjon and Zumikito's videos), but it works for the type of stuff you're looking for, no problem. Hope that helps.
@@traceofwind Hey, just did a model last night with just the panel liner and the white spirits. I cleaned it a bit aggressively and also inconsistently because i am a gud painter and ended up splattering the whole thing with it, but still, having done it without using any varnish, the panel liner itself isn't really glossy at all. There's some slight shimmer in the areas where it's collected the most, but at arms length it's basically invisible, and even close up the amount of contrast it gives far outweighs any shine it has. I would also recommend not using q-tips/cotton swabs, as they tend to tear up, but it's what i have available and it does work. Hope that helps.
for speed you should varnish it, then paint the whole tank in the oil paint (starship filth is awesome to use), then just wipe off the the top layer. would take about 5mins a tank, its known as a gunk wash ;)
Really interested in seeing how it keeps when you make a pot of it like you did. I always make a mix per project and having a pot already pre made would definitely save a lot of time.
Just a note about odorless thinners and spirits. They don't smell as bad but they do still emit fumes. Be sure you're still using proper ventilation as the fumes can be toxic.
@@tabletopskirmishgames cheers mate, I'll probably just make up what I need anyway just to be safe. It's just that I liked your idea of keeping it in a pot ready to use whenever
This was too painful to watch , you need to gloss varnish first to seal in paint job and it also allows pin wash to flash along the lines. You need to thin the oil more too…common sense! 😏 you then sealin with Matt or satin varnish after any clean up etc
@cameronlewington3005 None of what you claim here I have ever done on my models...yet they all look great...what have I done wrong? Please, enlighten me, master!
You can really slather this stuff on, let it sit for a bit, then wipe off the extra. Doing so allows you to use a large brush and speeds things up drastically, depending on the look you're going for. Try it on a model you don't care about first, I promise you'll like the results.
I’ve seen that on some grim dark models and it looked great. Will definitely give it a go, thanks!
I use this method. It really works well and adds a layer of depth I could never get from shades. I clear coat my models with Pledge Revive-It through an airbrush before applying the wash.
Great video. I just used it at the end of painting to add a real pop to a figure, pick out armour joints, etc. Looks awesome.
I have been experimenting with panel-lining space marines with and without gloss varnish. The varnish makes everything 'work,' like you said Lee, it reduces surface tension. The trick is, as you have demonstrated, you have to do these in a batch otherwise it's terribly labour intensive. Smashing video as always, always looking forward to the next one! Cheers
Nice one, I will definitely be trying this on some Space Marines. Will try the 'cover it then wipe some off' method and panel lining with varnish. Thanks!
No matter what type of hobby video i am looking into or researching i can always trust on you to have the exact video i need, thanks mate 😉👍
That's awesome, thanks mate!
I received my oil paints yesterday, but I have yet to test them. I watched Ninjon use oils while speed painting Necrons, and I was upset at how good they looked 😂 I’m probably trying oil washes on the minis for Zombicide Black Plague, that I’m painting after I’m done with Bardsung.
🤣
Thank you so much for sharing this technique, and breaking down the details that go into it! I have been wanting to try this, but couldn't find anyone explaining exactly how until finally seeing your video. Excellent work! 😊
Hey that’s great to hear, glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!
It doesn't have a decent capillary action response because the mix is too thick.
Thanks 👊
I heard that the odorless spirits are to hot for plastic models.
You are supposed to dilute the paint with it, not ignite it...
@@mahari7285
The chemical reaction with pain will make it hot.
I tried artist turpentine and mineral spirit is much better. Firstly, turpentine is extremely smelly. It took a good day to get rid of the smell from my hobby place. It also slightly melts my acrylic paint on the mini. If I rub it too much, it removed the acrylic which is not good.
Mineral spirits solved both these. It is smelly but not terribly, and it does not touch the acrylic base paints.
Lastly, turpentine is extremely toxic, dangerous and needs special care. I used about 3ml and after about 5 minutes I started getting nausea so I had to continue in gas filter mask. I'd advise against artist thinners :)
If anyone wants to try this, you can get something called panel of her [edit: dagnabbit autocorrect, panel liner] or pin washes from scale modeling stuff, but make sure you get white spirits too! I have a Tamiya one, and it worked great, but not having white spirits I couldn't clean it up, and so I got a bit splotchy because I wasn't as careful. Once you do have it, a qtip and a tiny bit of white spirit can clean all of it off letting you really control it. Also you dont need to gloss the models first. Especially since I've gone through three kinda of matte varnish trying to make my 'mechs not look like they're covered in butter.
But looks cool, thanks for showing off how well it has worked and your experimenting to get it ready. I am curious how well it lasts in the pot; I have some dropper bottles I could use and I just picked up my own black and brown oils to make it, but I actually never thought about making it and storing for later.
That Tamiya paneliner looks so good, I’d like to try it. Yeah not sure how it will store, will let you know!
@@tabletopskirmishgames it's definitely good, but I think if you're already at the point of making your own, it's not any better, though the container does keep it effectively. It's brush is nowhere near as good as the one for the plastic cement, and so either you have to get white spirits to clean it up afterwards, or white spirits to clean the brush you use instead of it. I just have the black one, though if there is a special color or something matching more towards scale modelers I could see it's value. But it is a good value for someone who just wants to try it, since the consistency is already dialed in.
@@magnus0017 Good to hear about the Tamiya Panel Liner - I have it on hand, but yet to try it out. (Hello exam timetable and on-call shifts!) Do you think the panel liner is fine enough to use on space marines? I was expecting the brush to be pointed, but it's perhaps too broad for space marine details? I have a few synthetic brushes set aside for the task just in case. Also, what matte varnish worked best for you to seal the Tamiya / overcome the oily finish?
@@traceofwind Sorry for the delay, busy day. So, short answer, don't worry about the varnish, the Tamiya is fine for what you want to do. Now, the long answer: The tamiya panel liner is good; it's consistent, and it's nice and fluid. The brush that comes with it is a little chonky, though that might mostly be because it was designed for scale modelers and tanks and the like, where the size is less problematic. I would recommend using a separate brush, as it's a little neater, but it's absolutely not needed. The brush included will work.
For Space Marines it's totally fine, it will work best in grooves and the location where two sections meet in a crevice. So, the gaps between panels, the raised details on the insignia, the vents and grooves in the backpack and weapon. It will work least well on the shoulder pads, since there's only one edge, but it will follow it, just not as well and will spill a bit around the pad (not, it will spill over the whole thing, but you won't get quite a clean line). Using the bottle's brush will totally work, just expect to clean it a bit, which, honestly, isn't hard as long as you have the tools (which I didn't the first time).
On the varnish: I used gloss varnish on mine first, then put it on, but i wasn't able to get something to matte it back down. And, honestly, it wasn't worth the struggle of varnishing first, then panel liner, then trying to matte down, even if it did work. I haven't done many more with it without varnishing (working on something which I didn't want to use it), but without the gloss varnish first, the oil isn't too shiny? I would say a regular matte varnish would probably work. I've tried Liquitex, AK's regular matte (their Ultra-super-dooper-mega-ultimate matte varnish or whatever it's called is supposed to be better, but I bought the wrong one. -_- ), and they're fine, I wouldn't worry too much, but they can't overcome an all over coat of AP gloss varnish.
Most importantly though, have white spirits. Once you have that, you can clean it up with that and a q-tip. With that, it really doesn't matter what brush you use to do it, the bottle's or your own, and it's not something you need to rush to do before it dries or anything. So, I would say, grab some white spirits to clean, shake the bottle before using, but then just go for it. Goobertown Hobbies did a good testing of the different types specifically for blacklining.
I probably won't get more Tamiya once i (eventually) use it up, as it's just a consistent oil wash, but if you have it, it's perfectly good. I wouldn't use it to do some of the things I've seen other RUclipsr's do of totally oil washing everything, then selectively cleaning it to make a grungy look, (a la Ninjon and Zumikito's videos), but it works for the type of stuff you're looking for, no problem. Hope that helps.
@@traceofwind Hey, just did a model last night with just the panel liner and the white spirits. I cleaned it a bit aggressively and also inconsistently because i am a gud painter and ended up splattering the whole thing with it, but still, having done it without using any varnish, the panel liner itself isn't really glossy at all. There's some slight shimmer in the areas where it's collected the most, but at arms length it's basically invisible, and even close up the amount of contrast it gives far outweighs any shine it has. I would also recommend not using q-tips/cotton swabs, as they tend to tear up, but it's what i have available and it does work. Hope that helps.
Oil Points are great. But you can Really use them mode bravely, used as a wash.
Try strikings, you will love the process
I’m going to try that on some space marines at some point.
for speed you should varnish it, then paint the whole tank in the oil paint (starship filth is awesome to use), then just wipe off the the top layer. would take about 5mins a tank, its known as a gunk wash ;)
Nice one, I'll definitely be trying that out with space marines and maybe when I build the Leman Russ for the Traitor Guard. Great name, gunk wash!
Really interested in seeing how it keeps when you make a pot of it like you did. I always make a mix per project and having a pot already pre made would definitely save a lot of time.
I've almost used it all but I'll make up another pot and see how it stores.
I make smaller amounts and keep them in jars. Over time the spirts evaporate a little so I usually end up adding more if its been a while.
Just a note about odorless thinners and spirits. They don't smell as bad but they do still emit fumes. Be sure you're still using proper ventilation as the fumes can be toxic.
if you use gloss varnishit works better and protects the paintjob. then matt varnish after its perfect.
I've heard that reduces the surface tension. Next I'll be trying out a grim dark space marine.
@@tabletopskirmishgames cant wait to see it
I'll get around to trying this out eventually lol
Great video mate, did you find that the paint keeps well if you keep it in the Citadel pot with the white spirit mix or does it dry out?
Thanks Dan! I ended up using it all. I’ll be trying this again with Tau so will update.
@@tabletopskirmishgames cheers mate, I'll probably just make up what I need anyway just to be safe. It's just that I liked your idea of keeping it in a pot ready to use whenever
I couldn't figure it out, did you varnish earlier or were you just saying some people varnish but you didn't need to?
I am trying this with an airbrush now.
Wish me luck...
Hey nice one! Good luck, you got this 👊
This was too painful to watch , you need to gloss varnish first to seal in paint job and it also allows pin wash to flash along the lines. You need to thin the oil more too…common sense! 😏 you then sealin with Matt or satin varnish after any clean up etc
Thanks for watching!
@cameronlewington3005 None of what you claim here I have ever done on my models...yet they all look great...what have I done wrong? Please, enlighten me, master!