BIG BOAT, BIG PROBLEM

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  • Опубликовано: 24 дек 2024

Комментарии • 323

  • @catfrab
    @catfrab 9 дней назад +9

    Guys, you should maybe reconsider taking the tank out. If you found that failure, there will probably be others. These Bayliner untreated ally tanks famously fail to corrosion after around 20 years. You can cut the floor from the aft berth to get it out. Get a new tank made up in 316, coat in epoxy, refit, re-glass the floor and never worry again. If you patch it you could be doing same again in 12 months. No need to ask how I know this...

  • @YIKES615
    @YIKES615 13 дней назад +15

    The Bayliner 285 has been made for many years. I have one, a different year but basically the same. As I have followed Facebook groups of 285 owners, the issue of failed gas tanks has come up frequently and, those who have had to repair/replace a leaking one, the recomendation has consistently been to remove the sole (floor) in the aft cabin cutting it out. Once out of the way, the tank will come out. The only caution I would extend is that a pressure test might confirm it has no leaks now but unless you can inspect the whole tank you may have another corroded spot start to leak after you are done with your restoration. I guess the good news is that you can remove it through the aft cabin if needed.
    Have enjoyed watching your work on the boat, they are a spacious, trailer able cruiser. I love mine.
    Tim

  • @tomster70
    @tomster70 11 дней назад +10

    I've followed this boat journey on the channel and it teaches some great lessons. One, in most cases a cheap boat won't stay cheap! While it is totally great for content, most of us would be beached if our "great buy" ended up with this many issues! You all do teach us to be prepared for anything and that's what I love about all your projects. They are fluid, they change and get adjusted as issues crop up. Real world stuff! And, you both keep a great attitude even when the next gremlin bites ya, at least on camera! Love all the content, keep it coming, we'll keep watching!

  • @joelmorales9203
    @joelmorales9203 13 дней назад +6

    The corrosion is definitely pitting and rusting. However you can cut out a small part of the birth to pull out the gas tank completely. Then flush out the tank completely with soap and water. You can then cut on side open and inspect the tank. Most tanks don't last over 20 years. Contact sunshine tanks and fabricate a new one if the tank is to far gone. Just a suggestion. Good luck.

  • @j.decker7443
    @j.decker7443 13 дней назад +4

    My suggestion is to weld a round plug on the hole. Corners of patch plates are a great place to crack and start leaking. Round plug, no corners. Put a two to three inch round plug over the leak. Lap weld the plug. I would suggest two passes around the plug. Any spots of porosity that could leak should be covered up on the second pass. I would purge it with argon when welding.

  • @gageshultz9523
    @gageshultz9523 2 дня назад

    Good luck with this! I had to replace my fuel tank in my Whaler, and it was a process. It was corroding and forming pinholes from a design flaw. Mine runs from the center console to under the aft bench and sits in a shallow well with no drainage. Any water that falls seeps into the cavity and soaks the tank, eventually corroding. I thought about patching and welding, and was advised it will just be a temporary fix and replacement is the way to go. I replaced it in 2022 and figure it will need to be replaced again since a pump to evacuate water cannot be installed.

  • @autodog618
    @autodog618 11 дней назад +7

    Fuel Vapor control. In the UST decommissioning business, we use dry ice (CO2) to displace flammable vapors when we cut and remove old leaking USTs from the ground. We also use a combustible gas indicator (CGI) to test the tank to ensure the flammable vapors are displaced prior to hot work. This would add another layer of concern in the bilge area when you weld on that tank as CO2 sinks and will come out that hole into the bilge potentially displacing O2 so you would do monitoring in the bilge space as well with the 02 part of the CGI to ensure it isnt displaced. Also, I guess now we know why the prior repair was a patch rather than a proper weld repair/tank replacement.

    • @TheVettekid
      @TheVettekid 9 дней назад +1

      Yeah a hot pressure wash then soap and water to further clean the tank a few days before welding then use a few pounds of dry ice in the tank the day you go to weld it and wait till you can see the carbon dioxide coming out the top of the tank before you strike that first arc. I’ve repaired a few tanks that way and still have all my fingers but welding gas tanks is way more dangerous than a diesel tank but both can be deadly if care isn’t taken.

    • @michmull2841
      @michmull2841 9 дней назад

      Its Nice to See you guys working on this whole stuff, the Boat Videos im interested most. Be aware of the Gas vapors, which cause most explosions on boats cause people forgot the blower. Same If you you weld gas Tanks, the whole think can explode immediately. Good to see, you found this ticking time bomb by accident, whoever put this patch on the tank didnt know what he was doing. Love to see More boat videos of your work and vacation time. You both are beautyful. Many grretings from Germany - Dortmund with biggest christmas tree worldwide and the very nice soccer stadium for 80.000 Crazy people ❤😊

  • @williamhammerstrom6454
    @williamhammerstrom6454 7 дней назад +1

    OMG y'all. What a drag. You'll figure it out. I have faith!!❤

  • @wesleypulkka7447
    @wesleypulkka7447 12 дней назад +6

    Aaron + Emily, first thing would be a thorough inspection with a scope of that tank! Assuming you find more corrosion I'd cut that one up and take it out, then replace it with a smaller capacity tank that will slide right in. For a seasonal use vehicle 110 gallons is way more than you should need. For genuine safety and way better fuel efficiency you could convert that unit to diesel!

    • @centralparkfitness
      @centralparkfitness 9 дней назад +2

      @@wesleypulkka7447 they are putting a Duramax in it. I agree with you, the added efficiency by going to diesel would let them get away with a smaller tank. Especially since they are lake boaters not blue water boaters.

  • @gizmofish57
    @gizmofish57 10 дней назад +1

    One of the things I like about your channel is the varied content Cars, Truck , Tractors, boats...it's all there.

  • @jeraldguthmiller589
    @jeraldguthmiller589 13 дней назад +2

    i like that you admit that you don't know everything and are asking for help. i have read some of the comments and they are pretty good suggestions. don't give up.

  • @MM_in_Havasu
    @MM_in_Havasu 12 дней назад +3

    Great episode! Yes, find a way to eliminate all gas fumes before welding, filling it with water will get the gas to float on top of the water, then either CO2 or argon gas(inert), maybe nitrogen to allow welding that patch back on the tank. Wish there were some way to remove it from the boat, but serious disassembly would be required and I'd get a stainless steel tank made up at that point($$$$!!!!)to install.
    Thanks for a great episode, don't always get a chance to post, but I'm still here with y'all watching! God bless you & family.

    • @fastj1962
      @fastj1962 11 дней назад +1

      My dad used to cut off filler necks to weld in front of mufflers so he could "uncork" the car at anytime by unscrewing the cas cap. He worked in a junkyard in Longbeach, and thats what he would do, fill them with water. He learned his lesson by getting blown across the yard one time...lol (in the 50s)

  • @erniedesimone4851
    @erniedesimone4851 13 дней назад +2

    THANKS AGAIN. I Think you might need a bigger patch once you clean it up.
    Who ever thought DIMOND plate and silicone would hold back gasoline couldn't really think they were a mechanic. I'm glad you two are doing it the RIGHT way. Your doing a great job. THANKS

  • @t3chnicianb3000
    @t3chnicianb3000 13 дней назад +4

    "Break out another thousand" ... omg. Great title for anything 'boat related'. Glad Y'all are back at it putting out content again. I believe it's hard to dig a big enough hole in the backyard to bury all the money it takes to keep an elderly boat operating. I do get a lift out of the positive mindset You Guys maintain. God Bless and keep the vids coming ... please. ✌

  • @trevorbrown1898
    @trevorbrown1898 13 дней назад +10

    I got the same and the same problem, had to remove the bulkhead and the aft bed base. Actually wasn’t too hard, the tank was shot! Once you get it out you’ll see the bottom of the tank gets pitted badly! New tank made of stainless steel. Good luck👍

  • @jstar1129
    @jstar1129 11 дней назад +4

    Yup cut an access hole. Use your aviation buddies for help. Airplanes have access holes for maintenance. Then you'll be able to seal from the inside using B 1/2 sealant. Also use the blow gun with a long nozzle trick to get tank in. Blow air under tank as your trying to push it in and it will "float" on a cushion of air for ease to place it back in place.

  • @jimbates2587
    @jimbates2587 13 дней назад +5

    You need a new tank the tank is definitely seen saltwater in that spot and the inside is probably worse than that. I had to replace the tanks in my boat a few years ago from the same kind of damage even if you fix that spot it's probably rotten in other places. Enjoy your videos.

  • @TD-tz8rg
    @TD-tz8rg 13 дней назад +5

    First I'd like to repeat what I said to you at Iola - It's great that you guys are showing people that you don't have to be experts to tackle DIY projects. I think it is great that you don't hide that you sometimes are winging it. Keep at it! Now for advice from a pressure vessel engineer... before you weld on the fuel tank you'll need to evacuate the tank completely to make sure it is free of fumes and displace the oxygen. CO2 is a curious option that I've not seen, but working in a welding shop, I know Argon is heavier than air so it will push the air out of the tank. It will take some time to purge a tank that size. Finding an oxygen monitor that you can check the tank with would be best. Introduce the argon anywhere, but vent the tank out through it's highest point (again Argon is heavier than air). We typically tape the inlet hole off, then poke a hole in it and insert the argon hose through the hole in the tape. Then tape the vent and poke a similar size hole for the air to escape from. You only want enough argon flow to feel the flow coming out of the vent. If you have an oxygen monitor this is where you will test from by putting the probe into the vent hole. Get the oxygen content under 100ppm. This will take a lot of argon. If you get the tank out, stand it on end and fill mostly with water, just enough air gap to weld it would be deal, but you may be limited by the connections. Then purge the remaining air space with argon the same way, but it will use a lot less argon. Aluminum protects itself from corrosion, by corroding... Clean aluminum forms an oxide layer when exposed to oxygen. This layer seals the Aluminum and prevents further corrosion. Clean the patch area back to bright shining metal. Then weld it. Wire brush the weld clean between each welding pass. Then wire brush the finished weld until you remove all discoloration and leave it exposed to air. Nature will do the rest. Bright shiny metal before and after welding is the key for aluminum (and most metals that don't "rust"). For help GTAW/TIG welding look up Pacific Arc TIG Welding on RUclips - ruclips.net/video/48kNktW0VYQ/видео.htmlsi=7NO6jYdKJ8iOjzQr PLEASE BE CAREFULL when welding the fuel tank! Leak test by filling with a 2-3 psi of air - NO MORE than that! Compressed air stores a lot of energy and that tank isn't designed for pressure. The check for leaks by mixing dish soap with water and spraying onto the weld. Leaks will make bubbles. Look closely, if you see static bubbles it is probably not a leak. Rapid apearing small bubbles, and of course large bubbles, are leaks. If you want to see what this looks like, loosen a valvestem on a tire and try it. Good luck!

  • @j.j.clingman4083
    @j.j.clingman4083 13 дней назад +1

    I’d definitely say that Erin is on the correct steps on fixing the tank for sure!!! Definitely fixing it while everything else is torn out and you are already there you just have to get the tank out and repair the spot!! The only thing I would suggest is definitely go much bigger than the damaged area so that you are into a good section of metal so that maybe some thinner metal from the tank isn’t seen and just may go bad over a short amount of time!! Tig weld it up and do a good pressure test after all repairs are done and the welds are all smoothed out will definitely help save time down the road of having to repair it again!!! Awesome job and remember keep up all the hard work!!!!

  • @Poetry_on_a_Cracker
    @Poetry_on_a_Cracker 6 дней назад +1

    I learned my boat lessons… 3 or 4 times 😂 good videos

  • @hquiroz113064
    @hquiroz113064 13 дней назад +2

    Great video! I love the work you have done on this boat, lots of progress and a setback here and there are expected. Keep up the great work!

  • @robertcieslak6260
    @robertcieslak6260 13 дней назад +3

    When you rebuild your stringers recommend to use fiberglass. One of the big reasons they don't build large Bayliner boats anymore. I had a 3055 that I bought new and I always had lots of water in the bilge. I traded her in on a new 3388 Bayliner Motoryacht and after 5 years I had rotten stringers now that was a real kick in the pants. Next boat was a CrownLine and it was great never an issue. I do enjoy your videos though.

  • @One2Many-338
    @One2Many-338 13 дней назад +5

    You might need to disassemble the aft berth to get the fuel tank out. Usually the bulkhead (that you removed) traps water right up against the fuel tank causing the corrosion. BTDT too . . .

  • @One2Many-338
    @One2Many-338 13 дней назад +3

    I would not weld that tank !!!! It really should come out in its entirety for a full inspection and pressure test. BTW pressure test spec is only 3 psi.

  • @devryndrives6623
    @devryndrives6623 13 дней назад +1

    Omg...how much has the kid grown since the last video?! Yall are so blessed with your family.

  • @clacker54
    @clacker54 10 дней назад +1

    That is most likely from galvenic corrosion.
    It is caused from stray ungrounded current trying to fing a ground.
    Add some zinc to the new tank. The zinc will be sacrificed and protect the tank.

  • @bobohm21
    @bobohm21 13 дней назад +2

    Flush it REALLY well. A friend flushed his with water twice and there were still vapors that exploded when being welded. My teacher at A+P school said never weld on a fuel tank unless you flood it with inert gas and I've seen enough tanks getting welded spout flame to be a believer. A couple of those were by a guy who also thought welding on an acetyelene tank was a good idea. I will never forget seeing that tank spinning and spouting flame, then Roy coming in with smoking eyebrows where flame came under his welding mask. I'm not sure how the guy managed to live long enough to die of old age.

  • @christopherreilly4303
    @christopherreilly4303 13 дней назад +3

    Buy a poly tank. You should be able to find one that fits, even if it holds less fuel.

  • @hotwizard6487
    @hotwizard6487 11 дней назад +1

    I watched fab rats a weld a gas tank a while back. Paul put a hose running in the tank from an exhaust pipe. The CO2 kills the oxygen so it won't explode. Just a thought.

  • @lancmac
    @lancmac 13 дней назад +2

    Wash the tank with soapy water. Pump it out... Then use a C02 fire extinguisher and fill the tank with C02 or [argon]..... Keep bleeding C02 into the tank as you weld the holes closed. Then fill with water, seal it off and then pressure tested... Less air volume will display a drop in pressure much easier than an empty tank pressurized.

  • @Luigi-pk8mk
    @Luigi-pk8mk 10 дней назад +2

    that brought back bad memories of doing a similar job on my '88 Four Winns years back. Came out well, still solid now. But I'd NEVER EVER buy another old wood/glass boat again!
    for cutting and grinding 'glass you need a P-100 filter in a 3M faceshield. 'Glass dust is bad for your lungs!

    • @flyingsparksgarage
      @flyingsparksgarage  10 дней назад

      I've got a lot of respect for your commitment to the "never again" club - we're feeling that vibe right now! 😂

    • @Luigi-pk8mk
      @Luigi-pk8mk 10 дней назад +1

      @
      Seriously the ONLY boat I’ll buy in the future is a full ‘glass composite boat no wood at all and a 4 stroke outboard! I had the gas I/O and love Chevy small blocks but never again to I/O being in salt water. Here in the salt you learn how to get seized nuts & bolts out and how to prevent it from happening again hint-->Evinrude gasket sealer on threads and Evinrude triple guard grease on driveshaft splines and propshafts…
      Good luck with your project!

  • @timothysmith2128
    @timothysmith2128 13 дней назад +2

    Bayliners got a very bad rep in the 80's with terrible transoms. Hope you are successful in permanently repairing said boat. Love the content.. Everything you do is pertinent to everyday people. Y'all be good now, you heah?

  • @rondogwil
    @rondogwil 13 дней назад +1

    Yes, fill it with water. Also with it filled with water you can check for leaks instead of using compressed air. Wow what a job! Be safe!

  • @mikehosier6633
    @mikehosier6633 13 дней назад

    So glad to see some boat content again! Good luck and be safe on the repairs! I like the idea of a nitrogen or argon purge during your repairs, or maybe some gasoline safe repair kit?

  • @thepolkster46
    @thepolkster46 13 дней назад +1

    I see a good place for the larger , more properly engineered fuel tank , that corroded one is not a structural help, there is all kinds of ways the fuel tank could be a great means to tie that hull to the transom and help re-inforce it into a solid unit.

  • @dougfarster9546
    @dougfarster9546 13 дней назад +4

    I really like your videos but really luv when you guys do boating videos !!! Keep up the great work !! Luv you guys !!

  • @josephmiele3745
    @josephmiele3745 13 дней назад +2

    Definitely be careful welding. Anything that had gasoline in it and I would suggest going to a professional welder for a fuel tank. The proper way to fix that is to cut the deck and get a new tank. Ask me how I know.

  • @steveschmitt5137
    @steveschmitt5137 13 дней назад +1

    You two are very adventurous for sure. I hope all your followers have some bonified ideas . I will be watching for any of your videos. Please stay safe.😊

  • @richardharvey8939
    @richardharvey8939 13 дней назад +2

    Love y’all’s channel and work. Happy Holidays from our first Christmas in East Texas.

    • @bbrut3332
      @bbrut3332 13 дней назад +1

      Where in East TX, over near Marshall myself. Message me if near by this old car, boat, airplane guy. 😅

    • @richardharvey8939
      @richardharvey8939 13 дней назад

      @ Cut and Shoot

  • @Jim-fe2xz
    @Jim-fe2xz 13 дней назад +1

    Multi tools are awesome! I'd use the correct material (not diamond plate) and inset the patch flush (butt welds) and round all corners with generous radii. Be very careful not to over pressurize the tank if testing with air only. Better fight be to fill with water and apply minimal pressure. Make sure your shop vac is clean and connect the hose to the outlet fitting to blow air into the tank to dry it out when done. That's a huge tank and difficult to inert in the boat - be very careful! Others may have better ideas 🤙

  • @garyquartley1084
    @garyquartley1084 12 дней назад +1

    The tool Aaron used at the start is known as a multi-tool in the UK. great video guys!!

  • @One2Many-338
    @One2Many-338 13 дней назад +1

    Lots of folks don't like to work on fuel tanks because BOOMMM!!!! Once corrosion starts, it is hard to stop. Most often a new fuel tank is the solution. BTW- the Aft Berth rear bulkhead may need to be cut to get enough clearance for the tank to come out.

  • @terryvuylsteke2434
    @terryvuylsteke2434 12 дней назад +1

    I love your channel, you guys rock!!! Keep doin' what you're doin'!!! Woop-Woop!!!! That being said, being up here in Canada in early December and today the temperature high is -13 ... and your cute little toques... brings me a smile. Cheers and Merry Christmas to you and all the viewers, Terry from Tillsonburg Ontario, Canada.

  • @chappy5538
    @chappy5538 13 дней назад +1

    Take all your precautions before welding on that tank stay safe great video.

  • @leemer1
    @leemer1 13 дней назад +1

    Here’s a thought. Working on that tank outside of the boat will be much easier. How about just cut off the first ten inches off the tank this will give enough clearance to pull tank all the way forward and out. Once it’s out have a new piece of aluminum cut and welded and new fittings installed. Sure you’ll lose some fuel capacity but not much

  • @ULFLYER5
    @ULFLYER5 12 дней назад +1

    If you can run a hose from a tailpipe, preferably one without a convertor. Run for quite a while. That is how car fuel tanks were welded. Of course the challenge of getting a hose to the tank in the boat.

  • @JUNKEdDudek
    @JUNKEdDudek 13 дней назад +2

    The way that tank was fixed was F-UP! But that boat is in good hands! We all know you’re going to do it right! The guy that sold it to you should be ashamed! What a looser! You guys ROCK!

  • @mmeyer8700
    @mmeyer8700 13 дней назад

    Your plan to fix the tank is reasonable. I thought it was a great idea to remove the tank then wondered if there if there was enough room to remove the tank--guess not. But what you did see when you moved the tank looks reasonable. Good luck

  • @8056443232
    @8056443232 13 дней назад

    I sure recommend doing all the prep work as you have planned, maybe getting some dry ice, cutting out a patch (rounded corners seem to work best) but hire a welder to come do the actual work once it is all set and ready.

  • @ToddF100
    @ToddF100 11 дней назад

    Could you drill out the hole that is in the tank and install a universal drain plug kit? That is if you could gain access to the inside of the tank via the sending unit hole. Might save you from having to weld on a fuel tank.

  • @majobis
    @majobis 10 дней назад

    Yep you are correct when they put the tank in and build the rest of the boat around it.
    I have seen a number of behind the scenes videos and that is exactly what they do.

  • @claire-d1e
    @claire-d1e 12 дней назад

    Good footage and good finding.My suggestion is to replace the tank. It could be weak elsewhere. For all that work, I would be skeptical with a repair patch, I had a Mako center console I had to replace the tank. Yes it is a project, I dont really want to see you do it twice, once is bad enough. I had a place in New Jersey make me a tank, never had to worry about a leaking tank. 44 gallon tank cost me 625 delivered to Connecticut, I had a 1985 Bayliner 2550 with a 105 gallon tank, If I kept the boat I would have replaced the tank. Just my suggestion!, Good Luck, Keep up the good work!

  • @MichaelJones-se9sl
    @MichaelJones-se9sl 13 дней назад

    I have welded several boat fuel tanks all but one the hole was in the area where yours is . There is a fiberglass board to protect the end and a screw will get dropped between tank and wall and vibration will wear a hole in the tank. I have welded several gas tanks by hooking hose on exhaust of a truck plumbing it to gas tank carbon monoxide gets ride of fumes and oxygen because that is what explodes

  • @davepontrello4159
    @davepontrello4159 13 дней назад +1

    I would definitely take the whole boat to a shop and have a professional do the tig. It's tough to weld good enough to seal a tank.

  • @jhaedtler
    @jhaedtler 13 дней назад +5

    You got a spool gun with your Lincoln. Aluminium mig the tank repair. Much easier than tig welding.

  • @phylliscampbell-zn2ve
    @phylliscampbell-zn2ve 13 дней назад +1

    Love it! You guys are quite the team!

  • @peterfilipsson9952
    @peterfilipsson9952 13 дней назад

    Hello, I've watched your video about the fuel tank, I've done that job before, my tip is to saw up a piece of the middle wall to the aft cabin about 50 cm up and saw up the floor in the midcabin, then you can get the tank out through the engine room and my advice to you is to make a new tank in stainless steel, probably yours is also rotten at the bottom because it is such an important thing not to have a leaking petrol tank, in my newer Bayliner it is a plastic tank thank god good luck.
    BaylinerPeter

  • @Bobby82568
    @Bobby82568 13 дней назад

    Everything happens for a reason, had you not noticed that patch it could have led to something much worse. Awesome job Aaron and Emily 👍🏻

  • @johnbianchi2516
    @johnbianchi2516 11 дней назад

    I was pondering the issue and came to the same conclusion,more than likely there are other issues with the tank that you can't see even if you scope it from the inside. I would cut it up and put in a smaller tank.

  • @oldseabee2938
    @oldseabee2938 13 дней назад +1

    More boat content! That tank is rough. My 1971 Land N' Sea has 2 50gal tanks that were built into the boat at the factory. I hope I never have to deal with this type of repair. I would have to cut the boat in half to get to them.

  • @scottleininger6201
    @scottleininger6201 13 дней назад

    Great episode I can believe how big that fuel tank is. Good luck on the repair of the tank

  • @johnparker3065
    @johnparker3065 7 дней назад

    The last we heard of the Bayliner, the gasser went to another project and the Bayliner was getting a fuel swap and a turbo diesel. Still the plan? Regardless. ALWAYS dumpster the tank on a repower. Marine tanks collect moisture in the tank bottoms, always. Plate/welds perforation corrosion will be found in the 30+ year old Bayliner tank. Good news and bad news, switch fuels can dramatically reduce your gallons per hour burn rates and the tank size to accomplish the same mission. Suggest selecting the engine and I/o configuration. That boat really needs 400 ft/lbs of torque (Cat 3208 T, Cummins Q Series 5.9). Scour the Gulf Coast ship yards for components left from others repowers. Have a plan or the gotchas will result in many BOAT's!!

  • @joelReppe
    @joelReppe 13 дней назад +2

    use dry ice in the tank and tou will be safe to weld on it . Joel Reppe Clear Lake SD

  • @antonyzimzores2774
    @antonyzimzores2774 11 дней назад

    Nice, Video but you need to get that tank out. I have a 96 Bayliner Avanti 3255 on freshwater only; the 180g tank developed a leak on the bottom from fuel sediment, and I had 90g of gasoline in my bilge. There is no way to fix this in the boat; we needed a new fuel tank fabricated. These aluminum tanks are only rated for around a 25-year life. Bayliner built the boat's bottom half and dropped the tank in the wet fiberglass; the paper on top was masking paper from finishing the fiberglass. With your boat having the same problems I have had, I wouldn't want to see it on the news burning down a marina like I almost did.

  • @jeffbrevelle2095
    @jeffbrevelle2095 13 дней назад

    Fill wt water stand on end, Careful not to overheat when patching. Careful not to over pressure when checking for leaks When checking tanks on airplanes , helicopters and race cars we limit pressure to a pound or 2.

  • @davidward5748
    @davidward5748 10 дней назад

    You were lucky to even get It to move. Most tanks are foamed in. You need to cut the transom out and remove the tank and have a new one made. I know that have already repaired the transom. Just a small setback.

  • @williammarsales254
    @williammarsales254 13 дней назад

    After you wash it with soap a water drain and rinse 2-3 times. When you’re satisfied it’s clean forcefully ventilate over night. Gas line is no joke and that tank is big. Good luck.

  • @mlgluv2playtv
    @mlgluv2playtv 5 дней назад

    I used marine tex epoxy on my 60 gallon aluminum tank the whole bottom was pitted and sides sanded wire brushed tank added epoxy few days later after hardened added mats and fiberglassed whole tank been 7 years not one leak saved me a thousand .

  • @rickgilles9009
    @rickgilles9009 13 дней назад

    Something that may be viable as a patching material versus welding is PIG putty two part epoxy. In the past, I've used this epoxy to repair aluminum and steel diesel and gasoline fuel tanks that remain leak free ten plus years later.

  • @Vaino_Hotti
    @Vaino_Hotti 13 дней назад +1

    Looks like the fuel tank could've come out of the transom hole when you had it apart. Of course it would need re-glassing the outside, but that might be less work than removing and re-doing the whole "firewall" in front of the engine bay.

  • @bobgaudet9941
    @bobgaudet9941 12 дней назад

    When you're done cleaning and prepping the gas tank for a welding make sure you use carbon dioxide or CO2 to push all the oxygen out of the tank so whatever fumes are left will not ignite good luck guys

  • @renoflames
    @renoflames 13 дней назад +1

    They built the Hull first then built the tank supports and engine supports second and wiring harness, partial, and laid part of it in then came the upper hull. The only way to pull the tank is cut away the upper hull and then remanufacture the entire rear upper hull engine side walls about 50 hours labor 2 men. That boat had a lot of water leaks from the manufacturer. Big Job ask me how I know? The Labor alone in a shop would total it out. Pressure test the Fuel Tank after you repair it with 30PSI for 24 hours, Whatever it takes and thank me later. lol BTDT. I used to own a Boat Manufacturing Company and I sold my designs to Tidecraft and Gator Boats Incl old VIP Boats.

  • @deathhawk81
    @deathhawk81 13 дней назад

    I know the feeling about finding a junk tank in the boat. My 1992 SeaSwirl, same thing. During my restoration project here, went to find out the aluminum gas tank like your rotted out had to be replaced.

  • @mrgreen8058
    @mrgreen8058 6 дней назад

    JB Wild makes a product called “tank weld” to repair fuel tanks. I’ve used it to fix a fuel tank on a Toyota Tundra. It worked great.

  • @agentcrm
    @agentcrm 12 дней назад

    A little bit of semantics. Aaron, you do NOT want brass underwater. You need bronze or you can get high quality re-enforced polymer through hull fittings. There are some stainless steel ones as well.
    With the fuel tank. If you're not used to welding ali, it can be a pain. It's even worse when it's had salt water in it (which probably caused the issues in the first place). You're probably better getting a fabricator in to weld it rather than this being your first attempt.
    The fuel tank and engine would have been installed before the deck and cabin was installed.

  • @ericquatkemeyer7084
    @ericquatkemeyer7084 12 дней назад

    Looks like yall are having fun now.. be safe welding on that tank... love the videos...

  • @scottkeehn9190
    @scottkeehn9190 12 дней назад

    I agree with how to clean the tank out for fumes and the corrosion could be worse and if it’s just big of a deal to pull the tank out to fix it might be a better idea to put a new tank in and the pressure test it just plug your van hose and your fill hose in your outlet hose. You can put air in with the pressure gauge regulated for some, but I’d be very skeptical on patching it putting it back in with all the work it’s gonna take if it leaks again to remove it.”)

  • @v1-vr-rotatev2-vy_vx31
    @v1-vr-rotatev2-vy_vx31 12 дней назад

    You can use a MIG welder with aluminum wire and Argon gas,,, most welding supply do not sell helium anymore so your not able to do heliarc...

  • @konradweniger3141
    @konradweniger3141 13 дней назад

    I clean up the outside and inspect the inside and install an inspection window where the hole is Grangers. Or use the epoxy gas tank repair ribbon from the auto parts it worked for me on a car before.

  • @rvdogfl
    @rvdogfl 12 дней назад

    Yep when a big boat is only $5,000 there is a very good reason why. The average person can not fix it. It does make a great project boat for the right people with skills to fix it like Flying Sparks Garage. Can't wait for the next video.

  • @AnchorSwing
    @AnchorSwing 11 дней назад

    I'm no expert (clearly)... There's a second fuel pickup point to the left of your fuel sending unit. What about welding on something like that, basically a large nut with a bolt that can be removed. You can use the new port for any type of maintenance like pumping out fuel, water, etc. Just a thought. :)

  • @evanharrison7921
    @evanharrison7921 8 дней назад

    what we use to do is wash the tank out, then hook a hose to the Exhuast of a car and put it on the inlet of the tank fill the tank with exhaust fumes so there's no oxygen then weld the tank.

  • @michaelsteward4423
    @michaelsteward4423 13 дней назад +1

    We absolutely love y'all's content! keep it coming!

  • @jimbates955
    @jimbates955 10 дней назад

    Research options for a new smaller tank, and if you find one that fits, replace the old one…you can always carry spare fuel. The downside of a smaller tank, is y’all might have to conserve fuel, and keep the throttle down…sorry Aaron! 😂 What about installing a new fuel tank on deck, or cut the old tank out, and could you install a bladder tank, similar to what some airplanes use?

  • @secretsquirrel9722
    @secretsquirrel9722 12 дней назад

    I can't remember where I saw it. But a fabricator on RUclips that often mods old muscle car tanks to take modern fuel surge tanks with multiple pumps.
    He empties the fuel. Cleans it best he can. Then he hooks up an exhaust pipe of a running car into it. It fills the tank with inert gas. That way, any cutting or welding sparks don't ignite. Same principle as purging to prevent sugaring in stainless.

  • @nathanshufelt6191
    @nathanshufelt6191 12 дней назад

    My father would use an exhaust pipe from his car, attach a hose to it, run it into the fuel tank. He would then start the car and run the exhaust into the tank. It removes the oxygen and then welding can be done.

  • @elwoodsummersjr596
    @elwoodsummersjr596 13 дней назад +3

    Great video, don't know anything about boats, but love watching you all , Emily is such a beautiful young ladiy , you would have to be crazy to not enjoy watching her . Lots of love from pa ❤❤❤

  • @miketee2444
    @miketee2444 11 дней назад

    Bayliners have more issues with this than most. Make sure you ground everything. You can't have enough grounds. The corrosion is often where current finds a better path through moisture.

  • @dalehorne9316
    @dalehorne9316 13 дней назад

    Aaron if you can get a small bottle of argon gas it’s none flammable and will displace the oxygen in the tank that will limit your possibility of a tank imploding the fumes are more deadly than anything

  • @lloydryan7716
    @lloydryan7716 13 дней назад

    You spent this episode learning, which you are really good at. just be really careful when you weld the patch or whatever you decide to do.
    There is a comment on how to make the tank safe to weld below mine, it sounds good. Don't make us wait months again please.

  • @ORRadtech
    @ORRadtech 11 дней назад

    Yes, they do, in fact, build the boat on top of the tank. The hull and the cabin/deck are two separate pieces, built out separately. The cabin/deck is then set in place, all connections made and the two arecsealed and joined at the rub rail.
    The likely reason you couldn't push the tank back in to its original position is you're compressing the remains of that plastic wrap you were tearing out. You say you want to repair this right. Well, unfortunately, right is getting that tank completely out and replacing it with a new one. A patch, even a welded one, is just a bandaid on what's still hidden.

  • @RobertCarroll-i2l
    @RobertCarroll-i2l 13 дней назад

    thank God you are related to your neighbors... with the positions you guys were in at the back of the boat :-)

  • @josephcarino5829
    @josephcarino5829 13 дней назад

    For some reason they're are a bunch of these broke down in Jersey. Everyone calls them bay lizzards. That is a cool lookin boat. Best of luck gettin er goin

  • @lenandtamaraevans
    @lenandtamaraevans 13 дней назад +1

    Flush the tank for a few days with running water. Be sure to not have fumes prior to welding. Cut out the damage and clean the back side as best as possible prior to welding. Very dangerous in the welding process.

  • @arm_luvr1002
    @arm_luvr1002 13 дней назад

    Use a scope to push underneath to have a look in the cavity fore of the tank in case there's something in front of it you might avoid crushing ......

  • @darrenshpak8980
    @darrenshpak8980 13 дней назад

    After you drain all the gas get a few pounds of dry ice pellets and put them in the tank it gets rid of the Vapor’s than put water to weld the safest way to repair it’s how we do motorcycles tanks

  • @One2Many-338
    @One2Many-338 13 дней назад

    When did you discover that the engine mount stringers were wet? I cannot recall if it was mentioned during the transom repair video. BTDT on my Formula boats . . .

  • @AE-kz1nk
    @AE-kz1nk 13 дней назад +4

    Huge complaint of production built small cruisers.
    Bayliner were notorious for this exact problem. You do have a couple of possible avenues. One would be to basically slowly cut the tank apart and then replace it with a slightly smaller aluminum, stainless or poly tank. The other one would be, check to see if the tank is smooth inside or if it has baffles. If it is smooth, you could legitimately put a neoprene bladder tank in , its cavity and plum everything through the top of the tank. Have a tank fabricated is honestly not a tremendously expensive affair if that is the route you go. For my experience, if you’ve got a rust spot that is above where water generally can sit, you’ve probably got a bigger problem looming with what’s under the tank or bilge water potentially set.

  • @philj3095
    @philj3095 13 дней назад

    Ok i bet this would work i think you could put a fuel bladder in that sucker . Ive seen em before . Cut the tank out of there . Open one side like the facing side . Then shove a blader in there . Where to find one ? Not sure or heck shove a big plastic tank in that space . Or ...a liner paint that is gas proof the fiber glass it in that area ....heck so many ideals . Ill look for fuel bladders and get back to you....

  • @Blackford86
    @Blackford86 10 дней назад

    Nice looking old Nova❤