Guys, you should maybe reconsider taking the tank out. If you found that failure, there will probably be others. These Bayliner untreated ally tanks famously fail to corrosion after around 20 years. You can cut the floor from the aft berth to get it out. Get a new tank made up in 316, coat in epoxy, refit, re-glass the floor and never worry again. If you patch it you could be doing same again in 12 months. No need to ask how I know this...
The Bayliner 285 has been made for many years. I have one, a different year but basically the same. As I have followed Facebook groups of 285 owners, the issue of failed gas tanks has come up frequently and, those who have had to repair/replace a leaking one, the recomendation has consistently been to remove the sole (floor) in the aft cabin cutting it out. Once out of the way, the tank will come out. The only caution I would extend is that a pressure test might confirm it has no leaks now but unless you can inspect the whole tank you may have another corroded spot start to leak after you are done with your restoration. I guess the good news is that you can remove it through the aft cabin if needed. Have enjoyed watching your work on the boat, they are a spacious, trailer able cruiser. I love mine. Tim
I've followed this boat journey on the channel and it teaches some great lessons. One, in most cases a cheap boat won't stay cheap! While it is totally great for content, most of us would be beached if our "great buy" ended up with this many issues! You all do teach us to be prepared for anything and that's what I love about all your projects. They are fluid, they change and get adjusted as issues crop up. Real world stuff! And, you both keep a great attitude even when the next gremlin bites ya, at least on camera! Love all the content, keep it coming, we'll keep watching!
The corrosion is definitely pitting and rusting. However you can cut out a small part of the birth to pull out the gas tank completely. Then flush out the tank completely with soap and water. You can then cut on side open and inspect the tank. Most tanks don't last over 20 years. Contact sunshine tanks and fabricate a new one if the tank is to far gone. Just a suggestion. Good luck.
My suggestion is to weld a round plug on the hole. Corners of patch plates are a great place to crack and start leaking. Round plug, no corners. Put a two to three inch round plug over the leak. Lap weld the plug. I would suggest two passes around the plug. Any spots of porosity that could leak should be covered up on the second pass. I would purge it with argon when welding.
Good luck with this! I had to replace my fuel tank in my Whaler, and it was a process. It was corroding and forming pinholes from a design flaw. Mine runs from the center console to under the aft bench and sits in a shallow well with no drainage. Any water that falls seeps into the cavity and soaks the tank, eventually corroding. I thought about patching and welding, and was advised it will just be a temporary fix and replacement is the way to go. I replaced it in 2022 and figure it will need to be replaced again since a pump to evacuate water cannot be installed.
Fuel Vapor control. In the UST decommissioning business, we use dry ice (CO2) to displace flammable vapors when we cut and remove old leaking USTs from the ground. We also use a combustible gas indicator (CGI) to test the tank to ensure the flammable vapors are displaced prior to hot work. This would add another layer of concern in the bilge area when you weld on that tank as CO2 sinks and will come out that hole into the bilge potentially displacing O2 so you would do monitoring in the bilge space as well with the 02 part of the CGI to ensure it isnt displaced. Also, I guess now we know why the prior repair was a patch rather than a proper weld repair/tank replacement.
Yeah a hot pressure wash then soap and water to further clean the tank a few days before welding then use a few pounds of dry ice in the tank the day you go to weld it and wait till you can see the carbon dioxide coming out the top of the tank before you strike that first arc. I’ve repaired a few tanks that way and still have all my fingers but welding gas tanks is way more dangerous than a diesel tank but both can be deadly if care isn’t taken.
Its Nice to See you guys working on this whole stuff, the Boat Videos im interested most. Be aware of the Gas vapors, which cause most explosions on boats cause people forgot the blower. Same If you you weld gas Tanks, the whole think can explode immediately. Good to see, you found this ticking time bomb by accident, whoever put this patch on the tank didnt know what he was doing. Love to see More boat videos of your work and vacation time. You both are beautyful. Many grretings from Germany - Dortmund with biggest christmas tree worldwide and the very nice soccer stadium for 80.000 Crazy people ❤😊
Aaron + Emily, first thing would be a thorough inspection with a scope of that tank! Assuming you find more corrosion I'd cut that one up and take it out, then replace it with a smaller capacity tank that will slide right in. For a seasonal use vehicle 110 gallons is way more than you should need. For genuine safety and way better fuel efficiency you could convert that unit to diesel!
@@wesleypulkka7447 they are putting a Duramax in it. I agree with you, the added efficiency by going to diesel would let them get away with a smaller tank. Especially since they are lake boaters not blue water boaters.
i like that you admit that you don't know everything and are asking for help. i have read some of the comments and they are pretty good suggestions. don't give up.
Great episode! Yes, find a way to eliminate all gas fumes before welding, filling it with water will get the gas to float on top of the water, then either CO2 or argon gas(inert), maybe nitrogen to allow welding that patch back on the tank. Wish there were some way to remove it from the boat, but serious disassembly would be required and I'd get a stainless steel tank made up at that point($$$$!!!!)to install. Thanks for a great episode, don't always get a chance to post, but I'm still here with y'all watching! God bless you & family.
My dad used to cut off filler necks to weld in front of mufflers so he could "uncork" the car at anytime by unscrewing the cas cap. He worked in a junkyard in Longbeach, and thats what he would do, fill them with water. He learned his lesson by getting blown across the yard one time...lol (in the 50s)
THANKS AGAIN. I Think you might need a bigger patch once you clean it up. Who ever thought DIMOND plate and silicone would hold back gasoline couldn't really think they were a mechanic. I'm glad you two are doing it the RIGHT way. Your doing a great job. THANKS
"Break out another thousand" ... omg. Great title for anything 'boat related'. Glad Y'all are back at it putting out content again. I believe it's hard to dig a big enough hole in the backyard to bury all the money it takes to keep an elderly boat operating. I do get a lift out of the positive mindset You Guys maintain. God Bless and keep the vids coming ... please. ✌
I got the same and the same problem, had to remove the bulkhead and the aft bed base. Actually wasn’t too hard, the tank was shot! Once you get it out you’ll see the bottom of the tank gets pitted badly! New tank made of stainless steel. Good luck👍
Yup cut an access hole. Use your aviation buddies for help. Airplanes have access holes for maintenance. Then you'll be able to seal from the inside using B 1/2 sealant. Also use the blow gun with a long nozzle trick to get tank in. Blow air under tank as your trying to push it in and it will "float" on a cushion of air for ease to place it back in place.
You need a new tank the tank is definitely seen saltwater in that spot and the inside is probably worse than that. I had to replace the tanks in my boat a few years ago from the same kind of damage even if you fix that spot it's probably rotten in other places. Enjoy your videos.
First I'd like to repeat what I said to you at Iola - It's great that you guys are showing people that you don't have to be experts to tackle DIY projects. I think it is great that you don't hide that you sometimes are winging it. Keep at it! Now for advice from a pressure vessel engineer... before you weld on the fuel tank you'll need to evacuate the tank completely to make sure it is free of fumes and displace the oxygen. CO2 is a curious option that I've not seen, but working in a welding shop, I know Argon is heavier than air so it will push the air out of the tank. It will take some time to purge a tank that size. Finding an oxygen monitor that you can check the tank with would be best. Introduce the argon anywhere, but vent the tank out through it's highest point (again Argon is heavier than air). We typically tape the inlet hole off, then poke a hole in it and insert the argon hose through the hole in the tape. Then tape the vent and poke a similar size hole for the air to escape from. You only want enough argon flow to feel the flow coming out of the vent. If you have an oxygen monitor this is where you will test from by putting the probe into the vent hole. Get the oxygen content under 100ppm. This will take a lot of argon. If you get the tank out, stand it on end and fill mostly with water, just enough air gap to weld it would be deal, but you may be limited by the connections. Then purge the remaining air space with argon the same way, but it will use a lot less argon. Aluminum protects itself from corrosion, by corroding... Clean aluminum forms an oxide layer when exposed to oxygen. This layer seals the Aluminum and prevents further corrosion. Clean the patch area back to bright shining metal. Then weld it. Wire brush the weld clean between each welding pass. Then wire brush the finished weld until you remove all discoloration and leave it exposed to air. Nature will do the rest. Bright shiny metal before and after welding is the key for aluminum (and most metals that don't "rust"). For help GTAW/TIG welding look up Pacific Arc TIG Welding on RUclips - ruclips.net/video/48kNktW0VYQ/видео.htmlsi=7NO6jYdKJ8iOjzQr PLEASE BE CAREFULL when welding the fuel tank! Leak test by filling with a 2-3 psi of air - NO MORE than that! Compressed air stores a lot of energy and that tank isn't designed for pressure. The check for leaks by mixing dish soap with water and spraying onto the weld. Leaks will make bubbles. Look closely, if you see static bubbles it is probably not a leak. Rapid apearing small bubbles, and of course large bubbles, are leaks. If you want to see what this looks like, loosen a valvestem on a tire and try it. Good luck!
I’d definitely say that Erin is on the correct steps on fixing the tank for sure!!! Definitely fixing it while everything else is torn out and you are already there you just have to get the tank out and repair the spot!! The only thing I would suggest is definitely go much bigger than the damaged area so that you are into a good section of metal so that maybe some thinner metal from the tank isn’t seen and just may go bad over a short amount of time!! Tig weld it up and do a good pressure test after all repairs are done and the welds are all smoothed out will definitely help save time down the road of having to repair it again!!! Awesome job and remember keep up all the hard work!!!!
When you rebuild your stringers recommend to use fiberglass. One of the big reasons they don't build large Bayliner boats anymore. I had a 3055 that I bought new and I always had lots of water in the bilge. I traded her in on a new 3388 Bayliner Motoryacht and after 5 years I had rotten stringers now that was a real kick in the pants. Next boat was a CrownLine and it was great never an issue. I do enjoy your videos though.
You might need to disassemble the aft berth to get the fuel tank out. Usually the bulkhead (that you removed) traps water right up against the fuel tank causing the corrosion. BTDT too . . .
I would not weld that tank !!!! It really should come out in its entirety for a full inspection and pressure test. BTW pressure test spec is only 3 psi.
That is most likely from galvenic corrosion. It is caused from stray ungrounded current trying to fing a ground. Add some zinc to the new tank. The zinc will be sacrificed and protect the tank.
Flush it REALLY well. A friend flushed his with water twice and there were still vapors that exploded when being welded. My teacher at A+P school said never weld on a fuel tank unless you flood it with inert gas and I've seen enough tanks getting welded spout flame to be a believer. A couple of those were by a guy who also thought welding on an acetyelene tank was a good idea. I will never forget seeing that tank spinning and spouting flame, then Roy coming in with smoking eyebrows where flame came under his welding mask. I'm not sure how the guy managed to live long enough to die of old age.
I watched fab rats a weld a gas tank a while back. Paul put a hose running in the tank from an exhaust pipe. The CO2 kills the oxygen so it won't explode. Just a thought.
Wash the tank with soapy water. Pump it out... Then use a C02 fire extinguisher and fill the tank with C02 or [argon]..... Keep bleeding C02 into the tank as you weld the holes closed. Then fill with water, seal it off and then pressure tested... Less air volume will display a drop in pressure much easier than an empty tank pressurized.
that brought back bad memories of doing a similar job on my '88 Four Winns years back. Came out well, still solid now. But I'd NEVER EVER buy another old wood/glass boat again! for cutting and grinding 'glass you need a P-100 filter in a 3M faceshield. 'Glass dust is bad for your lungs!
@ Seriously the ONLY boat I’ll buy in the future is a full ‘glass composite boat no wood at all and a 4 stroke outboard! I had the gas I/O and love Chevy small blocks but never again to I/O being in salt water. Here in the salt you learn how to get seized nuts & bolts out and how to prevent it from happening again hint-->Evinrude gasket sealer on threads and Evinrude triple guard grease on driveshaft splines and propshafts… Good luck with your project!
Bayliners got a very bad rep in the 80's with terrible transoms. Hope you are successful in permanently repairing said boat. Love the content.. Everything you do is pertinent to everyday people. Y'all be good now, you heah?
So glad to see some boat content again! Good luck and be safe on the repairs! I like the idea of a nitrogen or argon purge during your repairs, or maybe some gasoline safe repair kit?
I see a good place for the larger , more properly engineered fuel tank , that corroded one is not a structural help, there is all kinds of ways the fuel tank could be a great means to tie that hull to the transom and help re-inforce it into a solid unit.
Definitely be careful welding. Anything that had gasoline in it and I would suggest going to a professional welder for a fuel tank. The proper way to fix that is to cut the deck and get a new tank. Ask me how I know.
You two are very adventurous for sure. I hope all your followers have some bonified ideas . I will be watching for any of your videos. Please stay safe.😊
Multi tools are awesome! I'd use the correct material (not diamond plate) and inset the patch flush (butt welds) and round all corners with generous radii. Be very careful not to over pressurize the tank if testing with air only. Better fight be to fill with water and apply minimal pressure. Make sure your shop vac is clean and connect the hose to the outlet fitting to blow air into the tank to dry it out when done. That's a huge tank and difficult to inert in the boat - be very careful! Others may have better ideas 🤙
Lots of folks don't like to work on fuel tanks because BOOMMM!!!! Once corrosion starts, it is hard to stop. Most often a new fuel tank is the solution. BTW- the Aft Berth rear bulkhead may need to be cut to get enough clearance for the tank to come out.
I love your channel, you guys rock!!! Keep doin' what you're doin'!!! Woop-Woop!!!! That being said, being up here in Canada in early December and today the temperature high is -13 ... and your cute little toques... brings me a smile. Cheers and Merry Christmas to you and all the viewers, Terry from Tillsonburg Ontario, Canada.
Here’s a thought. Working on that tank outside of the boat will be much easier. How about just cut off the first ten inches off the tank this will give enough clearance to pull tank all the way forward and out. Once it’s out have a new piece of aluminum cut and welded and new fittings installed. Sure you’ll lose some fuel capacity but not much
If you can run a hose from a tailpipe, preferably one without a convertor. Run for quite a while. That is how car fuel tanks were welded. Of course the challenge of getting a hose to the tank in the boat.
The way that tank was fixed was F-UP! But that boat is in good hands! We all know you’re going to do it right! The guy that sold it to you should be ashamed! What a looser! You guys ROCK!
Your plan to fix the tank is reasonable. I thought it was a great idea to remove the tank then wondered if there if there was enough room to remove the tank--guess not. But what you did see when you moved the tank looks reasonable. Good luck
I sure recommend doing all the prep work as you have planned, maybe getting some dry ice, cutting out a patch (rounded corners seem to work best) but hire a welder to come do the actual work once it is all set and ready.
Could you drill out the hole that is in the tank and install a universal drain plug kit? That is if you could gain access to the inside of the tank via the sending unit hole. Might save you from having to weld on a fuel tank.
Yep you are correct when they put the tank in and build the rest of the boat around it. I have seen a number of behind the scenes videos and that is exactly what they do.
Good footage and good finding.My suggestion is to replace the tank. It could be weak elsewhere. For all that work, I would be skeptical with a repair patch, I had a Mako center console I had to replace the tank. Yes it is a project, I dont really want to see you do it twice, once is bad enough. I had a place in New Jersey make me a tank, never had to worry about a leaking tank. 44 gallon tank cost me 625 delivered to Connecticut, I had a 1985 Bayliner 2550 with a 105 gallon tank, If I kept the boat I would have replaced the tank. Just my suggestion!, Good Luck, Keep up the good work!
I have welded several boat fuel tanks all but one the hole was in the area where yours is . There is a fiberglass board to protect the end and a screw will get dropped between tank and wall and vibration will wear a hole in the tank. I have welded several gas tanks by hooking hose on exhaust of a truck plumbing it to gas tank carbon monoxide gets ride of fumes and oxygen because that is what explodes
Hello, I've watched your video about the fuel tank, I've done that job before, my tip is to saw up a piece of the middle wall to the aft cabin about 50 cm up and saw up the floor in the midcabin, then you can get the tank out through the engine room and my advice to you is to make a new tank in stainless steel, probably yours is also rotten at the bottom because it is such an important thing not to have a leaking petrol tank, in my newer Bayliner it is a plastic tank thank god good luck. BaylinerPeter
I was pondering the issue and came to the same conclusion,more than likely there are other issues with the tank that you can't see even if you scope it from the inside. I would cut it up and put in a smaller tank.
More boat content! That tank is rough. My 1971 Land N' Sea has 2 50gal tanks that were built into the boat at the factory. I hope I never have to deal with this type of repair. I would have to cut the boat in half to get to them.
The last we heard of the Bayliner, the gasser went to another project and the Bayliner was getting a fuel swap and a turbo diesel. Still the plan? Regardless. ALWAYS dumpster the tank on a repower. Marine tanks collect moisture in the tank bottoms, always. Plate/welds perforation corrosion will be found in the 30+ year old Bayliner tank. Good news and bad news, switch fuels can dramatically reduce your gallons per hour burn rates and the tank size to accomplish the same mission. Suggest selecting the engine and I/o configuration. That boat really needs 400 ft/lbs of torque (Cat 3208 T, Cummins Q Series 5.9). Scour the Gulf Coast ship yards for components left from others repowers. Have a plan or the gotchas will result in many BOAT's!!
Nice, Video but you need to get that tank out. I have a 96 Bayliner Avanti 3255 on freshwater only; the 180g tank developed a leak on the bottom from fuel sediment, and I had 90g of gasoline in my bilge. There is no way to fix this in the boat; we needed a new fuel tank fabricated. These aluminum tanks are only rated for around a 25-year life. Bayliner built the boat's bottom half and dropped the tank in the wet fiberglass; the paper on top was masking paper from finishing the fiberglass. With your boat having the same problems I have had, I wouldn't want to see it on the news burning down a marina like I almost did.
Fill wt water stand on end, Careful not to overheat when patching. Careful not to over pressure when checking for leaks When checking tanks on airplanes , helicopters and race cars we limit pressure to a pound or 2.
You were lucky to even get It to move. Most tanks are foamed in. You need to cut the transom out and remove the tank and have a new one made. I know that have already repaired the transom. Just a small setback.
After you wash it with soap a water drain and rinse 2-3 times. When you’re satisfied it’s clean forcefully ventilate over night. Gas line is no joke and that tank is big. Good luck.
I used marine tex epoxy on my 60 gallon aluminum tank the whole bottom was pitted and sides sanded wire brushed tank added epoxy few days later after hardened added mats and fiberglassed whole tank been 7 years not one leak saved me a thousand .
Something that may be viable as a patching material versus welding is PIG putty two part epoxy. In the past, I've used this epoxy to repair aluminum and steel diesel and gasoline fuel tanks that remain leak free ten plus years later.
Looks like the fuel tank could've come out of the transom hole when you had it apart. Of course it would need re-glassing the outside, but that might be less work than removing and re-doing the whole "firewall" in front of the engine bay.
When you're done cleaning and prepping the gas tank for a welding make sure you use carbon dioxide or CO2 to push all the oxygen out of the tank so whatever fumes are left will not ignite good luck guys
They built the Hull first then built the tank supports and engine supports second and wiring harness, partial, and laid part of it in then came the upper hull. The only way to pull the tank is cut away the upper hull and then remanufacture the entire rear upper hull engine side walls about 50 hours labor 2 men. That boat had a lot of water leaks from the manufacturer. Big Job ask me how I know? The Labor alone in a shop would total it out. Pressure test the Fuel Tank after you repair it with 30PSI for 24 hours, Whatever it takes and thank me later. lol BTDT. I used to own a Boat Manufacturing Company and I sold my designs to Tidecraft and Gator Boats Incl old VIP Boats.
I know the feeling about finding a junk tank in the boat. My 1992 SeaSwirl, same thing. During my restoration project here, went to find out the aluminum gas tank like your rotted out had to be replaced.
A little bit of semantics. Aaron, you do NOT want brass underwater. You need bronze or you can get high quality re-enforced polymer through hull fittings. There are some stainless steel ones as well. With the fuel tank. If you're not used to welding ali, it can be a pain. It's even worse when it's had salt water in it (which probably caused the issues in the first place). You're probably better getting a fabricator in to weld it rather than this being your first attempt. The fuel tank and engine would have been installed before the deck and cabin was installed.
I agree with how to clean the tank out for fumes and the corrosion could be worse and if it’s just big of a deal to pull the tank out to fix it might be a better idea to put a new tank in and the pressure test it just plug your van hose and your fill hose in your outlet hose. You can put air in with the pressure gauge regulated for some, but I’d be very skeptical on patching it putting it back in with all the work it’s gonna take if it leaks again to remove it.”)
I clean up the outside and inspect the inside and install an inspection window where the hole is Grangers. Or use the epoxy gas tank repair ribbon from the auto parts it worked for me on a car before.
Yep when a big boat is only $5,000 there is a very good reason why. The average person can not fix it. It does make a great project boat for the right people with skills to fix it like Flying Sparks Garage. Can't wait for the next video.
I'm no expert (clearly)... There's a second fuel pickup point to the left of your fuel sending unit. What about welding on something like that, basically a large nut with a bolt that can be removed. You can use the new port for any type of maintenance like pumping out fuel, water, etc. Just a thought. :)
what we use to do is wash the tank out, then hook a hose to the Exhuast of a car and put it on the inlet of the tank fill the tank with exhaust fumes so there's no oxygen then weld the tank.
Research options for a new smaller tank, and if you find one that fits, replace the old one…you can always carry spare fuel. The downside of a smaller tank, is y’all might have to conserve fuel, and keep the throttle down…sorry Aaron! 😂 What about installing a new fuel tank on deck, or cut the old tank out, and could you install a bladder tank, similar to what some airplanes use?
I can't remember where I saw it. But a fabricator on RUclips that often mods old muscle car tanks to take modern fuel surge tanks with multiple pumps. He empties the fuel. Cleans it best he can. Then he hooks up an exhaust pipe of a running car into it. It fills the tank with inert gas. That way, any cutting or welding sparks don't ignite. Same principle as purging to prevent sugaring in stainless.
My father would use an exhaust pipe from his car, attach a hose to it, run it into the fuel tank. He would then start the car and run the exhaust into the tank. It removes the oxygen and then welding can be done.
Great video, don't know anything about boats, but love watching you all , Emily is such a beautiful young ladiy , you would have to be crazy to not enjoy watching her . Lots of love from pa ❤❤❤
Bayliners have more issues with this than most. Make sure you ground everything. You can't have enough grounds. The corrosion is often where current finds a better path through moisture.
Aaron if you can get a small bottle of argon gas it’s none flammable and will displace the oxygen in the tank that will limit your possibility of a tank imploding the fumes are more deadly than anything
You spent this episode learning, which you are really good at. just be really careful when you weld the patch or whatever you decide to do. There is a comment on how to make the tank safe to weld below mine, it sounds good. Don't make us wait months again please.
Yes, they do, in fact, build the boat on top of the tank. The hull and the cabin/deck are two separate pieces, built out separately. The cabin/deck is then set in place, all connections made and the two arecsealed and joined at the rub rail. The likely reason you couldn't push the tank back in to its original position is you're compressing the remains of that plastic wrap you were tearing out. You say you want to repair this right. Well, unfortunately, right is getting that tank completely out and replacing it with a new one. A patch, even a welded one, is just a bandaid on what's still hidden.
For some reason they're are a bunch of these broke down in Jersey. Everyone calls them bay lizzards. That is a cool lookin boat. Best of luck gettin er goin
Flush the tank for a few days with running water. Be sure to not have fumes prior to welding. Cut out the damage and clean the back side as best as possible prior to welding. Very dangerous in the welding process.
After you drain all the gas get a few pounds of dry ice pellets and put them in the tank it gets rid of the Vapor’s than put water to weld the safest way to repair it’s how we do motorcycles tanks
When did you discover that the engine mount stringers were wet? I cannot recall if it was mentioned during the transom repair video. BTDT on my Formula boats . . .
Huge complaint of production built small cruisers. Bayliner were notorious for this exact problem. You do have a couple of possible avenues. One would be to basically slowly cut the tank apart and then replace it with a slightly smaller aluminum, stainless or poly tank. The other one would be, check to see if the tank is smooth inside or if it has baffles. If it is smooth, you could legitimately put a neoprene bladder tank in , its cavity and plum everything through the top of the tank. Have a tank fabricated is honestly not a tremendously expensive affair if that is the route you go. For my experience, if you’ve got a rust spot that is above where water generally can sit, you’ve probably got a bigger problem looming with what’s under the tank or bilge water potentially set.
Ok i bet this would work i think you could put a fuel bladder in that sucker . Ive seen em before . Cut the tank out of there . Open one side like the facing side . Then shove a blader in there . Where to find one ? Not sure or heck shove a big plastic tank in that space . Or ...a liner paint that is gas proof the fiber glass it in that area ....heck so many ideals . Ill look for fuel bladders and get back to you....
Guys, you should maybe reconsider taking the tank out. If you found that failure, there will probably be others. These Bayliner untreated ally tanks famously fail to corrosion after around 20 years. You can cut the floor from the aft berth to get it out. Get a new tank made up in 316, coat in epoxy, refit, re-glass the floor and never worry again. If you patch it you could be doing same again in 12 months. No need to ask how I know this...
The Bayliner 285 has been made for many years. I have one, a different year but basically the same. As I have followed Facebook groups of 285 owners, the issue of failed gas tanks has come up frequently and, those who have had to repair/replace a leaking one, the recomendation has consistently been to remove the sole (floor) in the aft cabin cutting it out. Once out of the way, the tank will come out. The only caution I would extend is that a pressure test might confirm it has no leaks now but unless you can inspect the whole tank you may have another corroded spot start to leak after you are done with your restoration. I guess the good news is that you can remove it through the aft cabin if needed.
Have enjoyed watching your work on the boat, they are a spacious, trailer able cruiser. I love mine.
Tim
I've followed this boat journey on the channel and it teaches some great lessons. One, in most cases a cheap boat won't stay cheap! While it is totally great for content, most of us would be beached if our "great buy" ended up with this many issues! You all do teach us to be prepared for anything and that's what I love about all your projects. They are fluid, they change and get adjusted as issues crop up. Real world stuff! And, you both keep a great attitude even when the next gremlin bites ya, at least on camera! Love all the content, keep it coming, we'll keep watching!
The corrosion is definitely pitting and rusting. However you can cut out a small part of the birth to pull out the gas tank completely. Then flush out the tank completely with soap and water. You can then cut on side open and inspect the tank. Most tanks don't last over 20 years. Contact sunshine tanks and fabricate a new one if the tank is to far gone. Just a suggestion. Good luck.
My suggestion is to weld a round plug on the hole. Corners of patch plates are a great place to crack and start leaking. Round plug, no corners. Put a two to three inch round plug over the leak. Lap weld the plug. I would suggest two passes around the plug. Any spots of porosity that could leak should be covered up on the second pass. I would purge it with argon when welding.
Good luck with this! I had to replace my fuel tank in my Whaler, and it was a process. It was corroding and forming pinholes from a design flaw. Mine runs from the center console to under the aft bench and sits in a shallow well with no drainage. Any water that falls seeps into the cavity and soaks the tank, eventually corroding. I thought about patching and welding, and was advised it will just be a temporary fix and replacement is the way to go. I replaced it in 2022 and figure it will need to be replaced again since a pump to evacuate water cannot be installed.
Fuel Vapor control. In the UST decommissioning business, we use dry ice (CO2) to displace flammable vapors when we cut and remove old leaking USTs from the ground. We also use a combustible gas indicator (CGI) to test the tank to ensure the flammable vapors are displaced prior to hot work. This would add another layer of concern in the bilge area when you weld on that tank as CO2 sinks and will come out that hole into the bilge potentially displacing O2 so you would do monitoring in the bilge space as well with the 02 part of the CGI to ensure it isnt displaced. Also, I guess now we know why the prior repair was a patch rather than a proper weld repair/tank replacement.
Yeah a hot pressure wash then soap and water to further clean the tank a few days before welding then use a few pounds of dry ice in the tank the day you go to weld it and wait till you can see the carbon dioxide coming out the top of the tank before you strike that first arc. I’ve repaired a few tanks that way and still have all my fingers but welding gas tanks is way more dangerous than a diesel tank but both can be deadly if care isn’t taken.
Its Nice to See you guys working on this whole stuff, the Boat Videos im interested most. Be aware of the Gas vapors, which cause most explosions on boats cause people forgot the blower. Same If you you weld gas Tanks, the whole think can explode immediately. Good to see, you found this ticking time bomb by accident, whoever put this patch on the tank didnt know what he was doing. Love to see More boat videos of your work and vacation time. You both are beautyful. Many grretings from Germany - Dortmund with biggest christmas tree worldwide and the very nice soccer stadium for 80.000 Crazy people ❤😊
OMG y'all. What a drag. You'll figure it out. I have faith!!❤
Aaron + Emily, first thing would be a thorough inspection with a scope of that tank! Assuming you find more corrosion I'd cut that one up and take it out, then replace it with a smaller capacity tank that will slide right in. For a seasonal use vehicle 110 gallons is way more than you should need. For genuine safety and way better fuel efficiency you could convert that unit to diesel!
@@wesleypulkka7447 they are putting a Duramax in it. I agree with you, the added efficiency by going to diesel would let them get away with a smaller tank. Especially since they are lake boaters not blue water boaters.
One of the things I like about your channel is the varied content Cars, Truck , Tractors, boats...it's all there.
i like that you admit that you don't know everything and are asking for help. i have read some of the comments and they are pretty good suggestions. don't give up.
Great episode! Yes, find a way to eliminate all gas fumes before welding, filling it with water will get the gas to float on top of the water, then either CO2 or argon gas(inert), maybe nitrogen to allow welding that patch back on the tank. Wish there were some way to remove it from the boat, but serious disassembly would be required and I'd get a stainless steel tank made up at that point($$$$!!!!)to install.
Thanks for a great episode, don't always get a chance to post, but I'm still here with y'all watching! God bless you & family.
My dad used to cut off filler necks to weld in front of mufflers so he could "uncork" the car at anytime by unscrewing the cas cap. He worked in a junkyard in Longbeach, and thats what he would do, fill them with water. He learned his lesson by getting blown across the yard one time...lol (in the 50s)
THANKS AGAIN. I Think you might need a bigger patch once you clean it up.
Who ever thought DIMOND plate and silicone would hold back gasoline couldn't really think they were a mechanic. I'm glad you two are doing it the RIGHT way. Your doing a great job. THANKS
"Break out another thousand" ... omg. Great title for anything 'boat related'. Glad Y'all are back at it putting out content again. I believe it's hard to dig a big enough hole in the backyard to bury all the money it takes to keep an elderly boat operating. I do get a lift out of the positive mindset You Guys maintain. God Bless and keep the vids coming ... please. ✌
I got the same and the same problem, had to remove the bulkhead and the aft bed base. Actually wasn’t too hard, the tank was shot! Once you get it out you’ll see the bottom of the tank gets pitted badly! New tank made of stainless steel. Good luck👍
Yup cut an access hole. Use your aviation buddies for help. Airplanes have access holes for maintenance. Then you'll be able to seal from the inside using B 1/2 sealant. Also use the blow gun with a long nozzle trick to get tank in. Blow air under tank as your trying to push it in and it will "float" on a cushion of air for ease to place it back in place.
You need a new tank the tank is definitely seen saltwater in that spot and the inside is probably worse than that. I had to replace the tanks in my boat a few years ago from the same kind of damage even if you fix that spot it's probably rotten in other places. Enjoy your videos.
First I'd like to repeat what I said to you at Iola - It's great that you guys are showing people that you don't have to be experts to tackle DIY projects. I think it is great that you don't hide that you sometimes are winging it. Keep at it! Now for advice from a pressure vessel engineer... before you weld on the fuel tank you'll need to evacuate the tank completely to make sure it is free of fumes and displace the oxygen. CO2 is a curious option that I've not seen, but working in a welding shop, I know Argon is heavier than air so it will push the air out of the tank. It will take some time to purge a tank that size. Finding an oxygen monitor that you can check the tank with would be best. Introduce the argon anywhere, but vent the tank out through it's highest point (again Argon is heavier than air). We typically tape the inlet hole off, then poke a hole in it and insert the argon hose through the hole in the tape. Then tape the vent and poke a similar size hole for the air to escape from. You only want enough argon flow to feel the flow coming out of the vent. If you have an oxygen monitor this is where you will test from by putting the probe into the vent hole. Get the oxygen content under 100ppm. This will take a lot of argon. If you get the tank out, stand it on end and fill mostly with water, just enough air gap to weld it would be deal, but you may be limited by the connections. Then purge the remaining air space with argon the same way, but it will use a lot less argon. Aluminum protects itself from corrosion, by corroding... Clean aluminum forms an oxide layer when exposed to oxygen. This layer seals the Aluminum and prevents further corrosion. Clean the patch area back to bright shining metal. Then weld it. Wire brush the weld clean between each welding pass. Then wire brush the finished weld until you remove all discoloration and leave it exposed to air. Nature will do the rest. Bright shiny metal before and after welding is the key for aluminum (and most metals that don't "rust"). For help GTAW/TIG welding look up Pacific Arc TIG Welding on RUclips - ruclips.net/video/48kNktW0VYQ/видео.htmlsi=7NO6jYdKJ8iOjzQr PLEASE BE CAREFULL when welding the fuel tank! Leak test by filling with a 2-3 psi of air - NO MORE than that! Compressed air stores a lot of energy and that tank isn't designed for pressure. The check for leaks by mixing dish soap with water and spraying onto the weld. Leaks will make bubbles. Look closely, if you see static bubbles it is probably not a leak. Rapid apearing small bubbles, and of course large bubbles, are leaks. If you want to see what this looks like, loosen a valvestem on a tire and try it. Good luck!
I’d definitely say that Erin is on the correct steps on fixing the tank for sure!!! Definitely fixing it while everything else is torn out and you are already there you just have to get the tank out and repair the spot!! The only thing I would suggest is definitely go much bigger than the damaged area so that you are into a good section of metal so that maybe some thinner metal from the tank isn’t seen and just may go bad over a short amount of time!! Tig weld it up and do a good pressure test after all repairs are done and the welds are all smoothed out will definitely help save time down the road of having to repair it again!!! Awesome job and remember keep up all the hard work!!!!
I learned my boat lessons… 3 or 4 times 😂 good videos
Great video! I love the work you have done on this boat, lots of progress and a setback here and there are expected. Keep up the great work!
When you rebuild your stringers recommend to use fiberglass. One of the big reasons they don't build large Bayliner boats anymore. I had a 3055 that I bought new and I always had lots of water in the bilge. I traded her in on a new 3388 Bayliner Motoryacht and after 5 years I had rotten stringers now that was a real kick in the pants. Next boat was a CrownLine and it was great never an issue. I do enjoy your videos though.
You might need to disassemble the aft berth to get the fuel tank out. Usually the bulkhead (that you removed) traps water right up against the fuel tank causing the corrosion. BTDT too . . .
I would not weld that tank !!!! It really should come out in its entirety for a full inspection and pressure test. BTW pressure test spec is only 3 psi.
Omg...how much has the kid grown since the last video?! Yall are so blessed with your family.
That is most likely from galvenic corrosion.
It is caused from stray ungrounded current trying to fing a ground.
Add some zinc to the new tank. The zinc will be sacrificed and protect the tank.
Flush it REALLY well. A friend flushed his with water twice and there were still vapors that exploded when being welded. My teacher at A+P school said never weld on a fuel tank unless you flood it with inert gas and I've seen enough tanks getting welded spout flame to be a believer. A couple of those were by a guy who also thought welding on an acetyelene tank was a good idea. I will never forget seeing that tank spinning and spouting flame, then Roy coming in with smoking eyebrows where flame came under his welding mask. I'm not sure how the guy managed to live long enough to die of old age.
Buy a poly tank. You should be able to find one that fits, even if it holds less fuel.
I watched fab rats a weld a gas tank a while back. Paul put a hose running in the tank from an exhaust pipe. The CO2 kills the oxygen so it won't explode. Just a thought.
Wash the tank with soapy water. Pump it out... Then use a C02 fire extinguisher and fill the tank with C02 or [argon]..... Keep bleeding C02 into the tank as you weld the holes closed. Then fill with water, seal it off and then pressure tested... Less air volume will display a drop in pressure much easier than an empty tank pressurized.
that brought back bad memories of doing a similar job on my '88 Four Winns years back. Came out well, still solid now. But I'd NEVER EVER buy another old wood/glass boat again!
for cutting and grinding 'glass you need a P-100 filter in a 3M faceshield. 'Glass dust is bad for your lungs!
I've got a lot of respect for your commitment to the "never again" club - we're feeling that vibe right now! 😂
@
Seriously the ONLY boat I’ll buy in the future is a full ‘glass composite boat no wood at all and a 4 stroke outboard! I had the gas I/O and love Chevy small blocks but never again to I/O being in salt water. Here in the salt you learn how to get seized nuts & bolts out and how to prevent it from happening again hint-->Evinrude gasket sealer on threads and Evinrude triple guard grease on driveshaft splines and propshafts…
Good luck with your project!
Bayliners got a very bad rep in the 80's with terrible transoms. Hope you are successful in permanently repairing said boat. Love the content.. Everything you do is pertinent to everyday people. Y'all be good now, you heah?
Yes, fill it with water. Also with it filled with water you can check for leaks instead of using compressed air. Wow what a job! Be safe!
So glad to see some boat content again! Good luck and be safe on the repairs! I like the idea of a nitrogen or argon purge during your repairs, or maybe some gasoline safe repair kit?
I see a good place for the larger , more properly engineered fuel tank , that corroded one is not a structural help, there is all kinds of ways the fuel tank could be a great means to tie that hull to the transom and help re-inforce it into a solid unit.
I really like your videos but really luv when you guys do boating videos !!! Keep up the great work !! Luv you guys !!
Definitely be careful welding. Anything that had gasoline in it and I would suggest going to a professional welder for a fuel tank. The proper way to fix that is to cut the deck and get a new tank. Ask me how I know.
You two are very adventurous for sure. I hope all your followers have some bonified ideas . I will be watching for any of your videos. Please stay safe.😊
Love y’all’s channel and work. Happy Holidays from our first Christmas in East Texas.
Where in East TX, over near Marshall myself. Message me if near by this old car, boat, airplane guy. 😅
@ Cut and Shoot
Multi tools are awesome! I'd use the correct material (not diamond plate) and inset the patch flush (butt welds) and round all corners with generous radii. Be very careful not to over pressurize the tank if testing with air only. Better fight be to fill with water and apply minimal pressure. Make sure your shop vac is clean and connect the hose to the outlet fitting to blow air into the tank to dry it out when done. That's a huge tank and difficult to inert in the boat - be very careful! Others may have better ideas 🤙
The tool Aaron used at the start is known as a multi-tool in the UK. great video guys!!
Lots of folks don't like to work on fuel tanks because BOOMMM!!!! Once corrosion starts, it is hard to stop. Most often a new fuel tank is the solution. BTW- the Aft Berth rear bulkhead may need to be cut to get enough clearance for the tank to come out.
I love your channel, you guys rock!!! Keep doin' what you're doin'!!! Woop-Woop!!!! That being said, being up here in Canada in early December and today the temperature high is -13 ... and your cute little toques... brings me a smile. Cheers and Merry Christmas to you and all the viewers, Terry from Tillsonburg Ontario, Canada.
Take all your precautions before welding on that tank stay safe great video.
Here’s a thought. Working on that tank outside of the boat will be much easier. How about just cut off the first ten inches off the tank this will give enough clearance to pull tank all the way forward and out. Once it’s out have a new piece of aluminum cut and welded and new fittings installed. Sure you’ll lose some fuel capacity but not much
If you can run a hose from a tailpipe, preferably one without a convertor. Run for quite a while. That is how car fuel tanks were welded. Of course the challenge of getting a hose to the tank in the boat.
The way that tank was fixed was F-UP! But that boat is in good hands! We all know you’re going to do it right! The guy that sold it to you should be ashamed! What a looser! You guys ROCK!
Your plan to fix the tank is reasonable. I thought it was a great idea to remove the tank then wondered if there if there was enough room to remove the tank--guess not. But what you did see when you moved the tank looks reasonable. Good luck
I sure recommend doing all the prep work as you have planned, maybe getting some dry ice, cutting out a patch (rounded corners seem to work best) but hire a welder to come do the actual work once it is all set and ready.
Could you drill out the hole that is in the tank and install a universal drain plug kit? That is if you could gain access to the inside of the tank via the sending unit hole. Might save you from having to weld on a fuel tank.
Yep you are correct when they put the tank in and build the rest of the boat around it.
I have seen a number of behind the scenes videos and that is exactly what they do.
Good footage and good finding.My suggestion is to replace the tank. It could be weak elsewhere. For all that work, I would be skeptical with a repair patch, I had a Mako center console I had to replace the tank. Yes it is a project, I dont really want to see you do it twice, once is bad enough. I had a place in New Jersey make me a tank, never had to worry about a leaking tank. 44 gallon tank cost me 625 delivered to Connecticut, I had a 1985 Bayliner 2550 with a 105 gallon tank, If I kept the boat I would have replaced the tank. Just my suggestion!, Good Luck, Keep up the good work!
I have welded several boat fuel tanks all but one the hole was in the area where yours is . There is a fiberglass board to protect the end and a screw will get dropped between tank and wall and vibration will wear a hole in the tank. I have welded several gas tanks by hooking hose on exhaust of a truck plumbing it to gas tank carbon monoxide gets ride of fumes and oxygen because that is what explodes
I would definitely take the whole boat to a shop and have a professional do the tig. It's tough to weld good enough to seal a tank.
You got a spool gun with your Lincoln. Aluminium mig the tank repair. Much easier than tig welding.
Love it! You guys are quite the team!
Hello, I've watched your video about the fuel tank, I've done that job before, my tip is to saw up a piece of the middle wall to the aft cabin about 50 cm up and saw up the floor in the midcabin, then you can get the tank out through the engine room and my advice to you is to make a new tank in stainless steel, probably yours is also rotten at the bottom because it is such an important thing not to have a leaking petrol tank, in my newer Bayliner it is a plastic tank thank god good luck.
BaylinerPeter
Everything happens for a reason, had you not noticed that patch it could have led to something much worse. Awesome job Aaron and Emily 👍🏻
I was pondering the issue and came to the same conclusion,more than likely there are other issues with the tank that you can't see even if you scope it from the inside. I would cut it up and put in a smaller tank.
More boat content! That tank is rough. My 1971 Land N' Sea has 2 50gal tanks that were built into the boat at the factory. I hope I never have to deal with this type of repair. I would have to cut the boat in half to get to them.
Great episode I can believe how big that fuel tank is. Good luck on the repair of the tank
The last we heard of the Bayliner, the gasser went to another project and the Bayliner was getting a fuel swap and a turbo diesel. Still the plan? Regardless. ALWAYS dumpster the tank on a repower. Marine tanks collect moisture in the tank bottoms, always. Plate/welds perforation corrosion will be found in the 30+ year old Bayliner tank. Good news and bad news, switch fuels can dramatically reduce your gallons per hour burn rates and the tank size to accomplish the same mission. Suggest selecting the engine and I/o configuration. That boat really needs 400 ft/lbs of torque (Cat 3208 T, Cummins Q Series 5.9). Scour the Gulf Coast ship yards for components left from others repowers. Have a plan or the gotchas will result in many BOAT's!!
use dry ice in the tank and tou will be safe to weld on it . Joel Reppe Clear Lake SD
Nice, Video but you need to get that tank out. I have a 96 Bayliner Avanti 3255 on freshwater only; the 180g tank developed a leak on the bottom from fuel sediment, and I had 90g of gasoline in my bilge. There is no way to fix this in the boat; we needed a new fuel tank fabricated. These aluminum tanks are only rated for around a 25-year life. Bayliner built the boat's bottom half and dropped the tank in the wet fiberglass; the paper on top was masking paper from finishing the fiberglass. With your boat having the same problems I have had, I wouldn't want to see it on the news burning down a marina like I almost did.
Fill wt water stand on end, Careful not to overheat when patching. Careful not to over pressure when checking for leaks When checking tanks on airplanes , helicopters and race cars we limit pressure to a pound or 2.
You were lucky to even get It to move. Most tanks are foamed in. You need to cut the transom out and remove the tank and have a new one made. I know that have already repaired the transom. Just a small setback.
After you wash it with soap a water drain and rinse 2-3 times. When you’re satisfied it’s clean forcefully ventilate over night. Gas line is no joke and that tank is big. Good luck.
I used marine tex epoxy on my 60 gallon aluminum tank the whole bottom was pitted and sides sanded wire brushed tank added epoxy few days later after hardened added mats and fiberglassed whole tank been 7 years not one leak saved me a thousand .
Something that may be viable as a patching material versus welding is PIG putty two part epoxy. In the past, I've used this epoxy to repair aluminum and steel diesel and gasoline fuel tanks that remain leak free ten plus years later.
Looks like the fuel tank could've come out of the transom hole when you had it apart. Of course it would need re-glassing the outside, but that might be less work than removing and re-doing the whole "firewall" in front of the engine bay.
When you're done cleaning and prepping the gas tank for a welding make sure you use carbon dioxide or CO2 to push all the oxygen out of the tank so whatever fumes are left will not ignite good luck guys
They built the Hull first then built the tank supports and engine supports second and wiring harness, partial, and laid part of it in then came the upper hull. The only way to pull the tank is cut away the upper hull and then remanufacture the entire rear upper hull engine side walls about 50 hours labor 2 men. That boat had a lot of water leaks from the manufacturer. Big Job ask me how I know? The Labor alone in a shop would total it out. Pressure test the Fuel Tank after you repair it with 30PSI for 24 hours, Whatever it takes and thank me later. lol BTDT. I used to own a Boat Manufacturing Company and I sold my designs to Tidecraft and Gator Boats Incl old VIP Boats.
I know the feeling about finding a junk tank in the boat. My 1992 SeaSwirl, same thing. During my restoration project here, went to find out the aluminum gas tank like your rotted out had to be replaced.
JB Wild makes a product called “tank weld” to repair fuel tanks. I’ve used it to fix a fuel tank on a Toyota Tundra. It worked great.
A little bit of semantics. Aaron, you do NOT want brass underwater. You need bronze or you can get high quality re-enforced polymer through hull fittings. There are some stainless steel ones as well.
With the fuel tank. If you're not used to welding ali, it can be a pain. It's even worse when it's had salt water in it (which probably caused the issues in the first place). You're probably better getting a fabricator in to weld it rather than this being your first attempt.
The fuel tank and engine would have been installed before the deck and cabin was installed.
Looks like yall are having fun now.. be safe welding on that tank... love the videos...
I agree with how to clean the tank out for fumes and the corrosion could be worse and if it’s just big of a deal to pull the tank out to fix it might be a better idea to put a new tank in and the pressure test it just plug your van hose and your fill hose in your outlet hose. You can put air in with the pressure gauge regulated for some, but I’d be very skeptical on patching it putting it back in with all the work it’s gonna take if it leaks again to remove it.”)
You can use a MIG welder with aluminum wire and Argon gas,,, most welding supply do not sell helium anymore so your not able to do heliarc...
I clean up the outside and inspect the inside and install an inspection window where the hole is Grangers. Or use the epoxy gas tank repair ribbon from the auto parts it worked for me on a car before.
Yep when a big boat is only $5,000 there is a very good reason why. The average person can not fix it. It does make a great project boat for the right people with skills to fix it like Flying Sparks Garage. Can't wait for the next video.
I'm no expert (clearly)... There's a second fuel pickup point to the left of your fuel sending unit. What about welding on something like that, basically a large nut with a bolt that can be removed. You can use the new port for any type of maintenance like pumping out fuel, water, etc. Just a thought. :)
what we use to do is wash the tank out, then hook a hose to the Exhuast of a car and put it on the inlet of the tank fill the tank with exhaust fumes so there's no oxygen then weld the tank.
We absolutely love y'all's content! keep it coming!
Research options for a new smaller tank, and if you find one that fits, replace the old one…you can always carry spare fuel. The downside of a smaller tank, is y’all might have to conserve fuel, and keep the throttle down…sorry Aaron! 😂 What about installing a new fuel tank on deck, or cut the old tank out, and could you install a bladder tank, similar to what some airplanes use?
I can't remember where I saw it. But a fabricator on RUclips that often mods old muscle car tanks to take modern fuel surge tanks with multiple pumps.
He empties the fuel. Cleans it best he can. Then he hooks up an exhaust pipe of a running car into it. It fills the tank with inert gas. That way, any cutting or welding sparks don't ignite. Same principle as purging to prevent sugaring in stainless.
My father would use an exhaust pipe from his car, attach a hose to it, run it into the fuel tank. He would then start the car and run the exhaust into the tank. It removes the oxygen and then welding can be done.
Great video, don't know anything about boats, but love watching you all , Emily is such a beautiful young ladiy , you would have to be crazy to not enjoy watching her . Lots of love from pa ❤❤❤
Bayliners have more issues with this than most. Make sure you ground everything. You can't have enough grounds. The corrosion is often where current finds a better path through moisture.
Aaron if you can get a small bottle of argon gas it’s none flammable and will displace the oxygen in the tank that will limit your possibility of a tank imploding the fumes are more deadly than anything
You spent this episode learning, which you are really good at. just be really careful when you weld the patch or whatever you decide to do.
There is a comment on how to make the tank safe to weld below mine, it sounds good. Don't make us wait months again please.
Yes, they do, in fact, build the boat on top of the tank. The hull and the cabin/deck are two separate pieces, built out separately. The cabin/deck is then set in place, all connections made and the two arecsealed and joined at the rub rail.
The likely reason you couldn't push the tank back in to its original position is you're compressing the remains of that plastic wrap you were tearing out. You say you want to repair this right. Well, unfortunately, right is getting that tank completely out and replacing it with a new one. A patch, even a welded one, is just a bandaid on what's still hidden.
thank God you are related to your neighbors... with the positions you guys were in at the back of the boat :-)
For some reason they're are a bunch of these broke down in Jersey. Everyone calls them bay lizzards. That is a cool lookin boat. Best of luck gettin er goin
Flush the tank for a few days with running water. Be sure to not have fumes prior to welding. Cut out the damage and clean the back side as best as possible prior to welding. Very dangerous in the welding process.
Use a scope to push underneath to have a look in the cavity fore of the tank in case there's something in front of it you might avoid crushing ......
After you drain all the gas get a few pounds of dry ice pellets and put them in the tank it gets rid of the Vapor’s than put water to weld the safest way to repair it’s how we do motorcycles tanks
When did you discover that the engine mount stringers were wet? I cannot recall if it was mentioned during the transom repair video. BTDT on my Formula boats . . .
Huge complaint of production built small cruisers.
Bayliner were notorious for this exact problem. You do have a couple of possible avenues. One would be to basically slowly cut the tank apart and then replace it with a slightly smaller aluminum, stainless or poly tank. The other one would be, check to see if the tank is smooth inside or if it has baffles. If it is smooth, you could legitimately put a neoprene bladder tank in , its cavity and plum everything through the top of the tank. Have a tank fabricated is honestly not a tremendously expensive affair if that is the route you go. For my experience, if you’ve got a rust spot that is above where water generally can sit, you’ve probably got a bigger problem looming with what’s under the tank or bilge water potentially set.
Ok i bet this would work i think you could put a fuel bladder in that sucker . Ive seen em before . Cut the tank out of there . Open one side like the facing side . Then shove a blader in there . Where to find one ? Not sure or heck shove a big plastic tank in that space . Or ...a liner paint that is gas proof the fiber glass it in that area ....heck so many ideals . Ill look for fuel bladders and get back to you....
Nice looking old Nova❤