Scribing wardrobe fillers
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- How to mark an infill to fit into a dead space. In this case a side infill but same method applies to top or bottom infill. Filmed on a bedroom fit in a new build for the benefit of our own DIY customers or anyone else who finds it useful. I videoed this on site when the opportunity arose so while it is not studio quality I hope it is useful.
www.diyfitted.com
www.birchbedro... 
Хобби
I’ve been a furniture maker and fitter for many years and this is def the best method to use and your demo video is excellent.
Followed this technique to scribe fillers on a larder unit. It was my first attempt at scribing and it worked a treat. Thanks for passing on your skills. Much appreciated.
Good to hear Jon - thanks!
Thanks really helpful I have an assessment on Monday for a wardrobe fitting job this will help alot
Awesome video! I used your scribe method to fit plinth in the kitchen that needed to be cut to fit round the skirting. Your excellent advice helped me so much.
Thanks Fiona - glad it helped.
Excellent demonstration, thanks very much 👍🏻
You're welcome James. Hope it helps.
Just used this method yesterday on some built-in wardrobes - very smart finish I have to say. Thanks for the detailed explanation :)
Thank you for the very thorough explanation of how to scribe filler pieces. I was not aware of down-cut blades, so that was also valuable. I expect marking onto tape, and then cutting with a down cut blade should eliminate tear out completely.
Thanks john. No need for tape. The downcut blades give a perfectly clean cut on the face. Obviously the reverse side will chip but in the case of infills this won't be seen. Do make sure the sole of the jigsaw is clean and free of damage that could cause scratches.
Great, informative video. Thanks!
Excellent explanation. Thank You!!
You are welcome. I hope it helps.
Thank you for the video. I was not sure how wide you set your compass at the bottom to mark the skirting board how far in did you come. Again one of the very best explanations out there including jig saw bit. Thank for you taking the time to post this.
Thanks Brian. The compass is set to the line already drawn with the offcut. If that isn't what you meant ask again.
Well impressed with your scribing, thanks
Great way of doing this. Plan to use this technique next week. One question did you cut the full length with the jigsaw or did you also use circular or table saw for the straight bit?
The edge that goes against the carcase needs to be straight, so will usually have been cut on a table saw, but you could use a circular saw. We nest all of our parts from jumbo sheets on a CNC router including the fillers, so they are dead straight and parallel.
Very helpful - thankyou! One question though, how would you scribe the infill if it were to sit on the face of the carcass? Where would you line the infill up to so that it had an extra 18mm/thickness of the carcass. Thanks
In what circumstance would you want to do that? However, you would line the edge of the infill with the inner edge of the carcase.
Fantastic vid. Exactly what I was looking for. Huge thanks.
Thanks Jon - glad it helped. Remember the downcut blades!
@@donutpanic I did! Following your advice, re the blade just ordered a pack of 5 from Amazon. I think I might prototype it before attempting the cut on the finished item too. Not a massive fan of jigsaws to be honest.
@@TheJonkilleen it's that or a fretsaw! Ensure you hold the jigsaw on to the work firmly as the downcut blades push the tool up. You'll love the jigsaw once you've finished - have fun.
You just saved me money, that i would have spend on a compass!
Thanks for sharing
Very good demonstration.,thank you..
Fantastic video! Very clever. Just wondering how to work out how big the block should be? For eg, one gap is approx 45mm wide and the other is approx 20mm wide. I'd hate to draw the profile too close to the straight edge of the filler or conversely, draw it too far off then requiring planing a bit off the straight edge. Cheers
Thanks for the comment. I''m not sure I understand your question. The block needs to be the exact width of the filler, or better still, cut from the end of it. As long as the filler is at least as wide as the widest part of the gap, it doesn't matter how wide it is. You can trim back with the jigsaw if required - you can't plane it if it is concave anywhere along its length. Cut for a good fit, but not a tight fit so that you don't damage the filler or the wall. Let me know if that wasn't what you meant!
@@donutpanic Hello again. Getting closer to doing this for our wardrobes. I understand how wide the block should be (same as the filler piece you're cutting from) but when you are scribing for a large end panel that is about 635mm wide, do you still use a block piece the same size as that? I was wondering if there is another trick as it would be a bit more awkward handling a larger block, but happy if not! Cheers
@@najlatois If you look at my video on scribing the bridge panel that should answer your question. You need to cut the amount it overlaps by at the front off the back. You could cut a small block to this size or use a compass. ruclips.net/video/S6dI15zQHdg/видео.html
@@donutpanic Fantastic! I'll cut a small block. Great videos. Thanks a million!
Excellent thanks. Would you then use some kind of caulking or mastic to fill the small gap thats left between this filler piece and the wall / skirting? (as seen at 9:11)
Cloppa2000 As long as the wall is a suitable finish and light colour like this, then yes. Some acrylic caulk gunned in to the gap and immediately wiped off with a damp cloth to leave nothing on the surface looks good. It is not essential or an excuse for sloppy scribing!
Thanks for replying so quick. Can I ask how would you fix the filler pieces in place? And with a high ceiling, would you put anything along the top or just have these fillers finish flush with the top as you show here.. Oh and one more.. If you have sliding doors, would you have them slide right up to the wall?
Cloppa2000 We fix by screwing from the inside. You can hide the screws at the side under the hinge plates. We make our wardrobes to 75mm from the ceiling if using a plain infill, and 120mm if fitting a cornice, in which case the infill goes behind the cornice. We are bespoke so don't have large infills at the top. We can make doors up to 2500mm so with a 100mm plinth and 120mm top infill we can cope with most tall ceilings! Our sliders usually still have full carcasses with the doors hung from the top, so side infill is as usual. If using a conventional sliding system it is usual to put a strip against the wall for the door to close onto. If the wall is really out of plumb this can have a scribed filler to set it off the wall to give a vertical surface to close onto. Hope that helps!
How do you fix the fillet in position, so that it stays flush and doesn't drop too far in?
It should be a snug, but not tight fit. Simply push it into place so that it is flush and screw in place from inside the carcase ideally under a hinge plate. If you push it in too far it can be tricky to retrieve but not impossible - insert a screw a short way and push above or below to pivot it back out and start again.
Thanks Mike.
what about that is flat wall, not perpendicular the cabinet
how can you do?
Have a look at my other videos.
Awesome idea of scribing the only thing i would cut that base at the bottom and let the filler alone
I presume you mean the skirting board? Best to leave it intact in case the furniture is ever removed.
Is that how is called?
I know that as baseboard but anyway thats a great idea to scribe
@@jexxux1 Thanks!
But that's no fun :)
How exactly do you measure the width of the filler? When you draw it using another small piece
Hi Victor. That is what the video explains! You do not measure it! If it doesn't become clear when you watch it right through again, ask again.
What compass do you use?
Are you in the USA?
@@donutpanic No, England.
As you will have seen, the bulk of the scribing doesn't use a compass but rather an offcut. For the bits that do require a compass I currently use an accuscribe but with the rear bumps cut off, or Axminster Tools dividers. Any will do as long as they hold their position.
how do you fix them
Hi Graham. The side fillers are fixed with screws hidden under the hinge plates.
You can also attach a batten along the straight edge on the back side of the filler. This gives you a larger area to screw into and can help keep your infill square
genius!
I'd have brought the socket 'into' the cabinet using a dry lining box.
I would have moved the socket. The customer however wanted this, and as we know, the customer is always right.