Like the videos. My wrists love the wagons. My dad drove it into my brain when disconnecting wires order is hot,neutral,ground. When connecting wires it’s ground,neutral then hot.
I use the ground wire wrapped around the grounding screw (assuming you have one) as a quick and easy way to suspend the fixture while I make the other connections. Thanks for your videos. I've learned a lot.
@@Mike__B Yup we all commented on that code breach. Those ground clamp clips are great wish they were around when I was still on the tools. Hell of lot easier than drilling an tapping..
I'm using Wagos for the first time on a bathroom renovation, and it's been a godsend. There's a particular junction box that I had to move around and modify several times as the project progressed, sometimes to get it out of the way, sometimes to add a new wire to it, and finally to move it to a new location. That's how it goes when you've got to maintain existing electrical circuits in the middle of a renovation. Getting wagos on and off several times is a breeze compared to big old wire nuts. I had 5 wires coming into the junction box, so kind of full. It would have been a pain to take big wire nuts on and off several times, undoing and redoing the twisted wires every time.
Been using them for about almost a year now and they're pretty good. Rewired an outdoor garage, GFCI replaced with two load 12/2, 3 gang switch box rewired, ballast lights swapped to LED direct wire, fan replacement, fan capacitor replacement, outdoor receptial replacement. And I'm sure I'm forgetting a couple of other projects but yeah all is well and working. I've used the 2s, 3, and 5s.
I was at my local Lowes Home Improvement store and had picked out a replacement kitchen light. When the Lowes man in the lighting area opened the box so I could take some measurements on the light, I noticed some unusual connections that were already on the light. He was a little familiar with them but I had never seen them or heard of them before. After watching your video, I have a better understanding of what they are for. I was going to cut those connections off and hard wire it like usual. Thanks for the video and explaining how the connections work.
Wish I had known about Wagos a few years when I did a ceiling light replacement. Was very frustrating trying to balance on the ladder, hold the light in one hand and make the connections with the other. Finally drafted my son to use my three step stepstool to hold the light for me while I used the stepladder to make the connections under wire nuts. I did learn about Wagos earlier this year and have been using them extensively in switch and outlet replacements in this century old home. Adding pigtails as the existing wires are fairly short.
in one of your other videos, you asked about the experience level of your viewers with electrical work. I worked for an electric company a few summers while attending college. I completely wired new homes under construction and occasionally did some “old work” projects. I’ve installed circuit panels, and a meter base pedestal. I know how to do most residential type wiring projects. What I lack is a theoretical understanding of how electrical systems work. I’ve had no formal schooling on the subject. However, I don’t care really about understanding how it works. More importantly, I can do what is needed to add a circuit, hang a light fixture, etc..I enjoy your videos. Sticking to the basics. Assuming nothing from your viewers, so that no one gets lost, or misses an important step. Jerry.
That is pretty persuasive, I must say. When putting up ceiling fixtures, I'm generally asking myself where I went wrong to end up doing the job in the first place but the Wagos should take most of the pain out of it.
Those opposite end butt connectors are good to have if someone has cut the unused ground wires off, or too short. Also most metal boxes even older ones have a threaded hole somewhere that accepts a green colored grounding pigtail that most home improvement stores sell.
Bravo for the new direction, I recall the last video reading about the wirenut and ground clip, and poof here you go not proud enough to know when someone else has a great (better?) idea.
At one time the spring loaded, push fit connections in the back of receptacles was a trend, but then later there was a trickle of cases where corrosion led to high resistance and ultimately a fire. So far I'm not hearing that about Wago, but I have held off to give it more time in the real world. It could take a few more years. You won't go far wrong by sticking to basics, keep wire length long for the next guy, verify that box volume is adequate given the number of insulated connectors, wires, and device volume. I was a little surprised at the clip on ground, which looks like a code violation in Canada.
At one time, wires were twisted, soldered, and covered with rubber tape. Things change, hopefully for the better. I believe the Wago lever connectors use stainless steel, which greatly reduces corrosion.
Well, they have been around and are approved but I would go a step further and say they are definitely good for low amp things like lighting. Always good for grounding, no issues to be had there. 15-20 amp constantly (I know, max would be 12/16 amp rated and whatnot)? harder to say and I like regular wire nuts and the wire together really well but they probably are just fine there too.
Wish I had seen this video before I tried replacing two fixtures in my carport. I had (of course) purchased *two* wire Wago clips, which were of no use in my application. So, I had to use the original wire nuts, which worked, but.....
The inline 221-2411 is new in the UK too. It debuted in Germany of course before they released worldwide. All the wagos have a test port ... On the 221-x04 range is on the back opposite the cable entries. Need a fairly slim probe thought
I always cover bare wires with wagos. Use a bent wire coat hanger as a hook for the fixture. Never rely on any wire from the fixture or electrical box as it may cause unseen kink or damage.
Good day kind Sir. Thanks for the video. I am about to hang a outdoor/entryway fixture, and I came across this video. The Wagos looks interesting, so I did a little research. I found them on Amazon. If you do not mind, can you explain how you determined the specific Wago you used? I see they have various styles based off of ports. Or am I overthinking it? Thanks in advance.
Some things I'd like to point out if you don't mind. 1. Have to Pre- Twist the wiring before twisting on the wirenut. Wirenuts have a spring inside them Not a threaded - insert or bushing. There is threading on the lower portion of a lot of wirenuts but that's for the insulation. The electrical connection is being made with tension from the spring inside. 2. Suppose to use Wago 224- NOT 221-2401 for stranded to solid conductor on lightening fixtures. 3. Many lever splice connectors are for low voltage applications so its best to always double- check the rating of the connector. 4. Don't mix up the Wago 221-2411 and 221-2401. They look exactly the same but the 221-2411 are only for 14-18 awg. Whereas the 221-2401 are for 18-12 awg. 5. Should only take off 1/2" of insulation on the wiring. The rest of the wiring inside the connector should be insulated and not bare wiring. It very clearly shows this on the wago installation site.
Yeah pre twisting is more for the guys who can't line up their wires before twisting, or are for guys who are old and arthritic whose wrists give out before lunch.
I enjoy your informative videos and usually watch them to the end, as you provide some nice tips and tricks. One theme I have noticed in your videos is a very strong recommendation on your part to use WAGO and your glowing reviews of them at all times. Are you being sponsored by the company in your presentations?
Wagos are the way to go.... fast and easy. as far as hanging a ceiling light like that, I always connect the ground first as shown in the video regardless of that connectors I'm using. that way, the light is attached and it makes it easier to finish the assembly. its the hanging fixtures we seem to have issues with
Not an electrician (just lowly engineer), but wonder if those Wago connectors are allowed for the ground wires. Code has always required twisting the ground wires together and securing with a copper crimp, at least in the past. No wire nuts or such. The Wago's will work, and unlikely an inspector would check. I used them in industrial automation wiring long before they made versions for homes. Also used them in my classic cars to chain ACC and GND busses.
I’ve really been wanting some, but not wanting to pay $2 each to the price gougers on the bay. A full case is more reasonable, but I would probably never use them all.
We should have some additional options soon and will let you know once some of the Amazon sellers get some for reasonable prices. Slim pickings right now and I haven't found anyone on Amazon with the 2401.
Nice video, but I was hoping that you would show the last part of mounting the fixture. It seems very tricky to get the fixture in place on the mounting screws.
Attempting to replace ceiling porch lights and upon removing the old fixtures, there are 2 black wires that were connected together and then to the black on the fixture and 2 white connected together and then to the fixture. Is that correct? Do I just do the same with the new one?
Suggestion...when you replace lighting on very tall ceilings, put up dedicated led fixtures. Eliminate future bulb changes as and possible lander accidents!
Great outstanding tips and techniques. May I ask for your thought? What would you do when replacing a bathroom ceiling exhaust fan. Found the 14-3 cable wires are run diagonally across from the opposite corner side of the old fan connecting box of the housing. And it just has enough (with no slack) to reach inside the connecting wires. The problem now is that the new fan housing is larger. And the cable is a ted short to have enough to be secured to the connecting box. One way is to remove 1 or 2 staple tacks that make the cable barely reaches the connecting point. Or install a junction box attaches to the ceiling/floor joist between the 1st and 2nd floor. Can the junction box hide inside the ceiling and the upper floor space? Or does the junction box need to be shown (exposed) on the ceiling sheetrock to indicate there is a junction box connection? Better yet. Do you have a similar project video/s?
Just recently received a 10 pack of Wago 221-2411. I mistakenly ordered these instead of 221-2401. The difference between them is the wire range. With regards to solid wire the 2411 range is 20awg to 14 awg and the 2401 is 20awg to 12awg. Wtf? Why bother with 2411? I tried the 2411 on 12awg and it works, no problem at all. The stranded wire range is similar as well, but the minimum on both is 18awg. They seem interchangeable.
You are convincing a lot of people about just how convenient those Lever-Locks are, including me. I bought a fairly large pack of up-to 12 AWG Push-type, but I haven't used them yet, so the package is still unopened and I think I'm going to exchange them for this type. Thanks
I bought some of those push type too and I used them once and wasn't sold. They don't work well with stranded wire and then when you try to disconnect them it's almost impossible and you end up cutting them am tossing them away. I will say that I have had issues getting three of them stuffed into a junction box when there is not a ton of room in there. I ended up removing them and using "gorilla nuts" which up until the wago has always been my go-to. They are rubber and you can crush them a bit.
@@meboyotube An electrician used them when adding power to an attic device made for the AC Plenum where power was tapped from across the hall in the bathroom. He left me two of them and I used one for the safety ground in the bathroom. That bathroom box was open with all the Romex easily accessible then. I wouldn't expect them to work on twisted wire, but they do hold 12 AWG solid Romex wires pretty well. The wires can be pulled out by twisting them left and right while pulling, but these are pretty secure with solid 12 AWG. But I do think I'm going to exchange the unopened pack for the Lever-Lock kind anyway, because they also work on twisted wire. In the the new light fixture he installed, the twisted wires were not 12 AWG, but a good bit smaller and he didn't fold them over to them them thicker, so those Lever-Locks are versatile and pretty darn good.
The Wago Push-Ins a pretty neat when you're connecting solid wires only. Possible advantages vs the Lever-Wagos are (beside the pricey) that they consume less space and that you can get them with up to eight connectors (lever is maximum five). They also easy to dismount: Just turn them left-right while pulling, and they come out with no problem. But of course Lever-Wagos are even easier to handle and they are the only option to connect stranded to solid and stranded to stranded.
@Patrick Kelly The Push-Ins are not supposed (and not certified) for stranded. It just cannot work by definition. When it comes to remove wires from (Wago) Push-Ins: Just turn them left-right while pulling, and they come off easily.
@@flowablesysadmin8068 The Push-on I bought at Home Depot are 4-Port Ideal In-Sure brand. They also had more ports and fewer. I don't remember seeing Lever, but if they had them, I bought these for the cheaper price. I usually go to Lowe's, but when there for something Lowe's doesn't carry and noticed them while leaving to check out. Between the two stores, I'll be able to find Lever even if they are by WAGO. We also have what Sutherlands turned into; what the name was changed to, Ace Hardware and others. I might as well look for WAGO while I'm at it.
It looks like the light fixture had silvery looking wires other than the ground. If you connect the silvery wires to copper wires, would that be a problem?
I would like to see a video comparing the pull strength of Wago lever nuts versus the strength of the backstab connection of an electrical outlet. Seems to me that they’re similar type connections, yet most people state not to backstab.
Very informative .. Question, is there a wire stripping tool that can cut and strip wire to the correct length for WAGO 221 connectors? Thank You, Michael
Two hints: 1. Make a hanging wire out of solid wire with hooks on each end. Suspend the figure from the hanging wire hooked to the box. Works also with sconces. 2. If the fixture hits the ceiling while you're working on it, use a piece of masking paper with masking tape to protect the ceiling or wall, if installing a sconce. Two tricks I learned from my late electrician friend, Al.
1. Wago's may not be for everybody or for all applications, but for me they are indispensable for connecting stranded (like light fixtures) to solid and adding pigtails where the wires have been cut too short in the box. 2. Haven't been able to find the Wago inline splicers in USA for a reasonable price. The similar ones sold on Amazon are NOT UL approved. 3. One of the two worst mistakes I have made as a DIY'er is not using commercial grade receptacles. The cheap ones do not last, especially for active locations. I am having to replace them.
Thanks for the feedback. The WAGO 221-2401 is coming and should be stocked by some of the Amazon sellers soon. As soon as they are released I will add them to my Amazon store and put out a community post letting people know 👍
Yep, the lever Wagos are the *only* way to go! This is especially true with ceiling fans. You'll be changing those out rather frequently due to style changes over the years. One further tip from an anal retentive DIY electrician... Solder tin the stranded leads from the fixture before employing the lever nuts. This makes removal and reinstallation for painting a breeze... Although, maybe not necessary for the homeowner, if working on a rental property, anything you can do to speed up the clean/paint/renovate tenant change-over will simplify your life greatly!
I’m turning my old utility trailer that j used as snowmobile trailer into a mobile welding rig. Replacing all the lights with LED, would the lever nuts work in this application? I’m in PA so road salt will be in play.
@@TomCee53 thanks, I always used to solder auto connections. Been using the but connectors with hard solder already inside and shrink wrapped so everything is sealed once they are heated. I like serviceable aspect of the wago though
what if my light fixture doesn't have ground for example recess light made of plastic material ? should I trash my light fixture or there is way to install?
@@Kevin-mp5of who are you , why replying did I spoke to u . pls respect Chanel nd get respect back. its not group discussion that asking u . I posted for this guy who makes nice videos for u and me
They aren't in most home improvement stores in the US either. I can find then at Menards which is a large region home improvement chain in the Midwest. My default is usually just buying in bulk on Amazon and stocking up my Milwaukee Packout electrical tray.
Lever nuts are so expensive compared to normal wire nuts that work fine imo. I guess use which ever you can afford and which makes sense for your application eh.
That is not correct if they are referring to NEC as opposed to some local code/regulation. I would ask for more clarification if possible like the specific part of the code.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank you. There is nothing in the current version of the code excluding them. But inspectors in certain counties seem to be failing the WAGOs when they are used. Kind of a grey area thing on the part of inspectors.
Is allowed to do electrical job like installation lights or outlets even you dont have electrician license? I mean you can technically but if something happens insurance will not cover your loss?
Regarding insurance covering DIY electrical, I spent about an hour on the web and ALL the insurance agents that commented said you would be covered. Basically, they insure stupidity. You can always call your agent. Now, if you have a fire, they may drop you after paying the claim.
Should always you use grounds screws clips are old school the ground on the fixture is usually long so you can hang the fixture while you make other connections. Or call an electrician 🤣
That box could never hold a fan, it is metal, and can support a fan, but this box can not, just look at the play this box has when Scott moves the wires
Every time I watch your videos I cringe. Never seen someone so unconcerned with wire length. You seem to think there is an endless supply of wire. You really need to quit snipping them off. Slack is priceless. When it runs out, you have a huge problem.
@@Kevin-mp5of I think you missed what the OP was saying. While yes, in this particular instance the wires being worked on were soldered together, one wouldn't want to cut the wires short if they were simply twisted together, because the original wire will start to degrade in the box or maybe break as you go because it's old or whatever reason. When you end up with too little to use, you're now the guy running new wire in a place you may not have access to.
The connectors are UL listed. The chances are higher they would deny it because a DIYer installed the light fitting instead of a certified electrician. We use such connectors for round about 30 years here in Germany. Electrical fires here are usually caused by misuse of appliances or devices like covering up ventilation openings, overload of powerstrips and so on.
DONT USE THOSE FOR ELECTRICAL OUTLETS. ONE SHORT CAN BLOW THAT WAGO OUT AND IT WILL BE LIKE FINDING A NEEDLE IN A HAY STACK TO FIND SHORT. LIGHTING IS OKAY BUT NOT RECEPTACLE OUTLETS
At least from my experience I have no problem trusting WAGO 221 lever nuts on 20 Amp circuits. I have also seen a number of overloading tests and WAGOs hold up as good as wire nuts.
Thanks for the feedback, I have to envision a target viewer for most of these videos to try and provide the information needed by that viewer. Specifically for this video, and most my videos, the target is not a 40 year electrician so not surprising that the info might seem a bit misaligned to your experience. Either way, thanks for letting me know.
Of course, when doing this for such a long time you got your method of doing it. These connectors make it easier and faster to install a light fitting.
@@Kevin-mp5of next you'll be claiming all the PEX plumbing is going to burst. WAGO connectors have been used for a long time in Europe without problems. Like PEX was before the American government agencies decided Europe knew what was good in new plumbing technology. Yet we still have people like you who choose to ignore that.
@@greggv8 I have been a service electrician for 30yrs, at least I can speak from experience, not a wago sales pitch. for every wire nut burned up I see 20 wagos
@@americanliberty4898 Being ignorant for 30 years is hardly an achievement. Use them to spec and there's no problem, pretty much all of Europe can attest to that.
@@Kevin-mp5of The interesting thing is, US electricians are using the same arguments German electricians did during the early 1990s: What a disgrace, they won't last, unsafe crap, in a few years the house will burn down, they disparage our skills. And now? They're considered as being "state-of-the-art" and no one uses the old connectors anymore.
Like the videos. My wrists love the wagons. My dad drove it into my brain when disconnecting wires order is hot,neutral,ground. When connecting wires it’s ground,neutral then hot.
I use the ground wire wrapped around the grounding screw (assuming you have one) as a quick and easy way to suspend the fixture while I make the other connections. Thanks for your videos. I've learned a lot.
The boxes he is working have no ground screws..
As Matthew said, no screw, in fact he used the wire clamp screw last time (a no-no) as a ground screw.
@@Mike__B Yup we all commented on that code breach. Those ground clamp clips are great wish they were around when I was still on the tools. Hell of lot easier than drilling an tapping..
Most light fixtures come with a bracket that has a ground screw.
@@danlux4954 That does not help if the box is not grounded. 😆
I'm using Wagos for the first time on a bathroom renovation, and it's been a godsend. There's a particular junction box that I had to move around and modify several times as the project progressed, sometimes to get it out of the way, sometimes to add a new wire to it, and finally to move it to a new location. That's how it goes when you've got to maintain existing electrical circuits in the middle of a renovation. Getting wagos on and off several times is a breeze compared to big old wire nuts. I had 5 wires coming into the junction box, so kind of full. It would have been a pain to take big wire nuts on and off several times, undoing and redoing the twisted wires every time.
And would have weakened the wires.
Been using them for about almost a year now and they're pretty good. Rewired an outdoor garage, GFCI replaced with two load 12/2, 3 gang switch box rewired, ballast lights swapped to LED direct wire, fan replacement, fan capacitor replacement, outdoor receptial replacement. And I'm sure I'm forgetting a couple of other projects but yeah all is well and working. I've used the 2s, 3, and 5s.
@@MannyAguilarJr..nn
I was at my local Lowes Home Improvement store and had picked out a replacement kitchen light. When the Lowes man in the lighting area opened the box so I could take some measurements on the light, I noticed some unusual connections that were already on the light. He was a little familiar with them but I had never seen them or heard of them before. After watching your video, I have a better understanding of what they are for. I was going to cut those connections off and hard wire it like usual. Thanks for the video and explaining how the connections work.
Wish I had known about Wagos a few years when I did a ceiling light replacement. Was very frustrating trying to balance on the ladder, hold the light in one hand and make the connections with the other. Finally drafted my son to use my three step stepstool to hold the light for me while I used the stepladder to make the connections under wire nuts.
I did learn about Wagos earlier this year and have been using them extensively in switch and outlet replacements in this century old home. Adding pigtails as the existing wires are fairly short.
And for some of us add to it bi-focals to take it to another frustration level. This getting old isn't for the young.
in one of your other videos, you asked about the experience level of your viewers with electrical work. I worked for an electric company a few summers while attending college. I completely wired new homes under construction and occasionally did some “old work” projects. I’ve installed circuit panels, and a meter base pedestal. I know how to do most residential type wiring projects. What I lack is a theoretical understanding of how electrical systems work. I’ve had no formal schooling on the subject. However, I don’t care really about understanding how it works. More importantly, I can do what is needed to add a circuit, hang a light fixture, etc..I enjoy your videos. Sticking to the basics. Assuming nothing from your viewers, so that no one gets lost, or misses an important step. Jerry.
That is pretty persuasive, I must say. When putting up ceiling fixtures, I'm generally asking myself where I went wrong to end up doing the job in the first place but the Wagos should take most of the pain out of it.
Hello, I enjoy watching your DIY projects. The Wagos really make connections quick and easy.
Those opposite end butt connectors are good to have if someone has cut the unused ground wires off, or too short. Also most metal boxes even older ones have a threaded hole somewhere that accepts a green colored grounding pigtail that most home improvement stores sell.
THANKS SCOTT …FOR ENLIGHTENING US 💡old and new ones 🤗👍😍😍😍
Great video. Its great to see that you learn from viewers comments just as I do. Well done.
Bravo for the new direction, I recall the last video reading about the wirenut and ground clip, and poof here you go not proud enough to know when someone else has a great (better?) idea.
Nice! Great incorporation of the feedback from the last video!
Please do a video on how to replace a fluorescent ballast. Your DIY videos are crystal clear and very helpful
This video has changed my life!
😂 that’s what I’m talking about 🙌
The other handle thing for fixtures is using a hook or short bungee to hold the fixture while making connections. Some ceiling fans come with this.
Hadn't seen a grounding clip being used like that but clearly a great idea. Please add it to your store.
where else is it used then?
@@Layarion Don't know. You tell me. Had never seen a clip used before for anything.
At one time the spring loaded, push fit connections in the back of receptacles was a trend, but then later there was a trickle of cases where corrosion led to high resistance and ultimately a fire. So far I'm not hearing that about Wago, but I have held off to give it more time in the real world. It could take a few more years. You won't go far wrong by sticking to basics, keep wire length long for the next guy, verify that box volume is adequate given the number of insulated connectors, wires, and device volume. I was a little surprised at the clip on ground, which looks like a code violation in Canada.
At one time, wires were twisted, soldered, and covered with rubber tape. Things change, hopefully for the better. I believe the Wago lever connectors use stainless steel, which greatly reduces corrosion.
Well, they have been around and are approved but I would go a step further and say they are definitely good for low amp things like lighting. Always good for grounding, no issues to be had there. 15-20 amp constantly (I know, max would be 12/16 amp rated and whatnot)? harder to say and I like regular wire nuts and the wire together really well but they probably are just fine there too.
So awesome, I’ve been looking for that EXACT type of splice from Wago!!
I've never seen those grounding clips. Interesting!
@@Kevin-mp5of I'm almost that old! Hahahahahahaha!
Yep! Local Menards has Wegos in any size qty you want. A few to more. Thnx!
Wish I had seen this video before I tried replacing two fixtures in my carport. I had (of course) purchased *two* wire Wago clips, which were of no use in my application. So, I had to use the original wire nuts, which worked, but.....
The inline 221-2411 is new in the UK too. It debuted in Germany of course before they released worldwide. All the wagos have a test port ... On the 221-x04 range is on the back opposite the cable entries. Need a fairly slim probe thought
I always cover bare wires with wagos. Use a bent wire coat hanger as a hook for the fixture. Never rely on any wire from the fixture or electrical box as it may cause unseen kink or damage.
Good day kind Sir. Thanks for the video. I am about to hang a outdoor/entryway fixture, and I came across this video. The Wagos looks interesting, so I did a little research. I found them on Amazon. If you do not mind, can you explain how you determined the specific Wago you used? I see they have various styles based off of ports. Or am I overthinking it?
Thanks in advance.
Some things I'd like to point out if you don't mind.
1. Have to Pre- Twist the wiring before twisting on the wirenut. Wirenuts have a spring inside them Not a threaded - insert or bushing. There is threading on the lower portion of a lot of wirenuts but that's for the insulation. The electrical connection is being made with tension from the spring inside.
2. Suppose to use Wago 224- NOT 221-2401 for stranded to solid conductor on lightening fixtures.
3. Many lever splice connectors are for low voltage applications so its best to always double- check the rating of the connector.
4. Don't mix up the Wago 221-2411 and 221-2401. They look exactly the same but the 221-2411 are only for 14-18 awg. Whereas the 221-2401 are for 18-12 awg.
5. Should only take off 1/2" of insulation on the wiring. The rest of the wiring inside the connector should be insulated and not bare wiring. It very clearly shows this on the wago installation site.
Yeah pre twisting is more for the guys who can't line up their wires before twisting, or are for guys who are old and arthritic whose wrists give out before lunch.
I enjoy your informative videos and usually watch them to the end, as you provide some nice tips and tricks. One theme I have noticed in your videos is a very strong recommendation on your part to use WAGO and your glowing reviews of them at all times. Are you being sponsored by the company in your presentations?
real easy sir, will done work
Should you wrap the lever nuts with electrical tape?
what about if the flush mount is heavy? will using the wago still work?
Wagos are the way to go.... fast and easy. as far as hanging a ceiling light like that, I always connect the ground first as shown in the video regardless of that connectors I'm using. that way, the light is attached and it makes it easier to finish the assembly. its the hanging fixtures we seem to have issues with
Not an electrician (just lowly engineer), but wonder if those Wago connectors are allowed for the ground wires. Code has always required twisting the ground wires together and securing with a copper crimp, at least in the past. No wire nuts or such. The Wago's will work, and unlikely an inspector would check. I used them in industrial automation wiring long before they made versions for homes. Also used them in my classic cars to chain ACC and GND busses.
Here in USA the single straight wago I can find was thru REV Robotics.
Do you have a link for the Wago 2401s? Can't seem to find them online.
Thanks for sharing.
Been waiting for a video on the wago butt connector. Haven't hit the mainstream sellers yet, but I'm definitely gonna pick some up.
I’ve really been wanting some, but not wanting to pay $2 each to the price gougers on the bay. A full case is more reasonable, but I would probably never use them all.
We should have some additional options soon and will let you know once some of the Amazon sellers get some for reasonable prices. Slim pickings right now and I haven't found anyone on Amazon with the 2401.
I really like your video keep it up i'm a new suscriber too
Nice video, but I was hoping that you would show the last part of mounting the fixture. It seems very tricky to get the fixture in place on the mounting screws.
Attempting to replace ceiling porch lights and upon removing the old fixtures, there are 2 black wires that were connected together and then to the black on the fixture and 2 white connected together and then to the fixture. Is that correct? Do I just do the same with the new one?
Suggestion...when you replace lighting on very tall ceilings, put up dedicated led
fixtures. Eliminate future bulb changes as and possible lander accidents!
Maybe not eliminate, but greatly reduce. Thanks for the tip.
Great outstanding tips and techniques. May I ask for your thought? What would you do when replacing a bathroom ceiling exhaust fan. Found the 14-3 cable wires are run diagonally across from the opposite corner side of the old fan connecting box of the housing. And it just has enough (with no slack) to reach inside the connecting wires. The problem now is that the new fan housing is larger. And the cable is a ted short to have enough to be secured to the connecting box. One way is to remove 1 or 2 staple tacks that make the cable barely reaches the connecting point. Or install a junction box attaches to the ceiling/floor joist between the 1st and 2nd floor. Can the junction box hide inside the ceiling and the upper floor space? Or does the junction box need to be shown (exposed) on the ceiling sheetrock to indicate there is a junction box connection? Better yet. Do you have a similar project video/s?
Great idea! Thanks
Just recently received a 10 pack of Wago 221-2411. I mistakenly ordered these instead of 221-2401. The difference between them is the wire range. With regards to solid wire the 2411 range is 20awg to 14 awg and the 2401 is 20awg to 12awg. Wtf? Why bother with 2411? I tried the 2411 on 12awg and it works, no problem at all. The stranded wire range is similar as well, but the minimum on both is 18awg. They seem interchangeable.
You are convincing a lot of people about just how convenient those Lever-Locks are, including me. I bought a fairly large pack of up-to 12 AWG Push-type, but I haven't used them yet, so the package is still unopened and I think I'm going to exchange them for this type. Thanks
I bought some of those push type too and I used them once and wasn't sold. They don't work well with stranded wire and then when you try to disconnect them it's almost impossible and you end up cutting them am tossing them away.
I will say that I have had issues getting three of them stuffed into a junction box when there is not a ton of room in there. I ended up removing them and using "gorilla nuts" which up until the wago has always been my go-to. They are rubber and you can crush them a bit.
@@meboyotube An electrician used them when adding power to an attic device made for the AC Plenum where power was tapped from across the hall in the bathroom. He left me two of them and I used one for the safety ground in the bathroom. That bathroom box was open with all the Romex easily accessible then.
I wouldn't expect them to work on twisted wire, but they do hold 12 AWG solid Romex wires pretty well. The wires can be pulled out by twisting them left and right while pulling, but these are pretty secure with solid 12 AWG. But I do think I'm going to exchange the unopened pack for the Lever-Lock kind anyway, because they also work on twisted wire. In the the new light fixture he installed, the twisted wires were not 12 AWG, but a good bit smaller and he didn't fold them over to them them thicker, so those Lever-Locks are versatile and pretty darn good.
The Wago Push-Ins a pretty neat when you're connecting solid wires only. Possible advantages vs the Lever-Wagos are (beside the pricey) that they consume less space and that you can get them with up to eight connectors (lever is maximum five).
They also easy to dismount: Just turn them left-right while pulling, and they come out with no problem.
But of course Lever-Wagos are even easier to handle and they are the only option to connect stranded to solid and stranded to stranded.
@Patrick Kelly
The Push-Ins are not supposed (and not certified) for stranded. It just cannot work by definition. When it comes to remove wires from (Wago) Push-Ins: Just turn them left-right while pulling, and they come off easily.
@@flowablesysadmin8068 The Push-on I bought at Home Depot are 4-Port Ideal In-Sure brand. They also had more ports and fewer. I don't remember seeing Lever, but if they had them, I bought these for the cheaper price. I usually go to Lowe's, but when there for something Lowe's doesn't carry and noticed them while leaving to check out. Between the two stores, I'll be able to find Lever even if they are by WAGO. We also have what Sutherlands turned into; what the name was changed to, Ace Hardware and others. I might as well look for WAGO while I'm at it.
Great information
It looks like the light fixture had silvery looking wires other than the ground. If you connect the silvery wires to copper wires, would that be a problem?
I don't know what size wires I'm working with. How do I know what wago lever nut I need?
For all of your 15 and 20 Amp circuits you should be working with 14 gauge and 12 gauge respectively.
So they finally made the missing wago lever nut product. Thats great to hear.
My fixture doesn't have a ground wire, only the black and white wires, are there any other ways to hold it up there?
I would like to see a video comparing the pull strength of Wago lever nuts versus the strength of the backstab connection of an electrical outlet. Seems to me that they’re similar type connections, yet most people state not to backstab.
Real easy. Well done 👍
That was awesome
Very informative .. Question, is there a wire stripping tool that can cut and strip wire to the correct length for WAGO 221 connectors? Thank You, Michael
Any automatic wire stripping tool. Just set it to 11mm and you’re good to go
Thanks for this!
Wago levers rock!
🤘
Two hints:
1. Make a hanging wire out of solid wire with hooks on each end. Suspend the figure from the hanging wire hooked to the box. Works also with sconces.
2. If the fixture hits the ceiling while you're working on it, use a piece of masking paper with masking tape to protect the ceiling or wall, if installing a sconce.
Two tricks I learned from my late electrician friend, Al.
1. Wago's may not be for everybody or for all applications, but for me they are indispensable for connecting stranded (like light fixtures) to solid and adding pigtails where the wires have been cut too short in the box.
2. Haven't been able to find the Wago inline splicers in USA for a reasonable price. The similar ones sold on Amazon are NOT UL approved.
3. One of the two worst mistakes I have made as a DIY'er is not using commercial grade receptacles. The cheap ones do not last, especially for active locations. I am having to replace them.
Thanks for the feedback. The WAGO 221-2401 is coming and should be stocked by some of the Amazon sellers soon. As soon as they are released I will add them to my Amazon store and put out a community post letting people know 👍
3:02 that's enough if you deal with this type of light fixture. The one that has the chain won't be held by that.
Yep, the lever Wagos are the *only* way to go! This is especially true with ceiling fans. You'll be changing those out rather frequently due to style changes over the years.
One further tip from an anal retentive DIY electrician... Solder tin the stranded leads from the fixture before employing the lever nuts. This makes removal and reinstallation for painting a breeze... Although, maybe not necessary for the homeowner, if working on a rental property, anything you can do to speed up the clean/paint/renovate tenant change-over will simplify your life greatly!
I’m turning my old utility trailer that j used as snowmobile trailer into a mobile welding rig. Replacing all the lights with LED, would the lever nuts work in this application? I’m in PA so road salt will be in play.
I believe the wagos use stainless steel contacts, so would be at least as good as wire nuts. The only road salt proof connection I know of is solder.
@@TomCee53 thanks, I always used to solder auto connections. Been using the but connectors with hard solder already inside and shrink wrapped so everything is sealed once they are heated. I like serviceable aspect of the wago though
what if my light fixture doesn't have ground for example recess light made of plastic material ? should I trash my light fixture or there is way to install?
@@Kevin-mp5of who are you , why replying did I spoke to u . pls respect Chanel nd get respect back. its not group discussion that asking u . I posted for this guy who makes nice videos for u and me
Very cool. I can't find the Wago bits in Canada anywhere
They aren't in most home improvement stores in the US either. I can find then at Menards which is a large region home improvement chain in the Midwest. My default is usually just buying in bulk on Amazon and stocking up my Milwaukee Packout electrical tray.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs makes sense for all the rental units you own. Thanks for the great video
Lever nuts are so expensive compared to normal wire nuts that work fine imo. I guess use which ever you can afford and which makes sense for your application eh.
I'm being told that WAGO's aren't "to code" for the State of Maryland. Does anyone have any more info?
That is not correct if they are referring to NEC as opposed to some local code/regulation. I would ask for more clarification if possible like the specific part of the code.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank you. There is nothing in the current version of the code excluding them. But inspectors in certain counties seem to be failing the WAGOs when they are used. Kind of a grey area thing on the part of inspectors.
Ooow, I like it!
Wish this video was up a year and a half ago. I hate the ground wire when hanging light fixture
Yeah, you mentioned a link to the 2401s, but I don’t see it.
Is allowed to do electrical job like installation lights or outlets even you dont have electrician license? I mean you can technically but if something happens insurance will not cover your loss?
Regarding insurance covering DIY electrical, I spent about an hour on the web and ALL the insurance agents that commented said you would be covered. Basically, they insure stupidity. You can always call your agent. Now, if you have a fire, they may drop you after paying the claim.
@@glasshalffull8625 thanks 🙏
@@Verminator151029 Dude, you need to stop with the “chest feeding” thing.
@@Kevin-mp5of Just trying to help the guy out. I wonder if he realizes it makes him look like he’s a beer or two short of a six pack?
It would be nice to have a wago with two on one side and one on the other, or even 2 and 2
Just searching the comments for the old heads that HATE wagos 😂
This video is obviously not for beginners. :(
Should always you use grounds screws clips are old school the ground on the fixture is usually long so you can hang the fixture while you make other connections. Or call an electrician 🤣
Dont want to snip off too much
Some wires hardly have any room as is
I can’t afford those Wago connectors.
That box could never hold a fan, it is metal, and can support a fan, but this box can not, just look at the play this box has when Scott moves the wires
My dad is going to hate me when I tell him to buy these wago 221’s because he is so used to the wire nuts.
Your secret is safe with me 🤫
Every time I watch your videos I cringe. Never seen someone so unconcerned with wire length. You seem to think there is an endless supply of wire. You really need to quit snipping them off. Slack is priceless. When it runs out, you have a huge problem.
@@Kevin-mp5of I think you missed what the OP was saying. While yes, in this particular instance the wires being worked on were soldered together, one wouldn't want to cut the wires short if they were simply twisted together, because the original wire will start to degrade in the box or maybe break as you go because it's old or whatever reason. When you end up with too little to use, you're now the guy running new wire in a place you may not have access to.
Wa(y to)Go! 👍🏼💪🏼
Funny guy 😁
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Seriously, the (authentic) Wagos are awesome. I did a quick check on the 2401 in Canada and I can't find it (?)
You didn't include the link to the butt splice
Repeat released yesterday too
@@Kevin-mp5of first 2 minutes is old video…. Nothing new last 2 minutes is new footage …. If this is part 2. Why was part 1 removed???
Real electricians,,,wire everything Live
And when the fixture fails and catches fire... what do you think your insurance company will say...
Deny deny deny!
The connectors are UL listed. The chances are higher they would deny it because a DIYer installed the light fitting instead of a certified electrician. We use such connectors for round about 30 years here in Germany. Electrical fires here are usually caused by misuse of appliances or devices like covering up ventilation openings, overload of powerstrips and so on.
DONT USE THOSE FOR ELECTRICAL OUTLETS. ONE SHORT CAN BLOW THAT WAGO OUT AND IT WILL BE LIKE FINDING A NEEDLE IN A HAY STACK TO FIND SHORT. LIGHTING IS OKAY BUT NOT RECEPTACLE OUTLETS
At least from my experience I have no problem trusting WAGO 221 lever nuts on 20 Amp circuits. I have also seen a number of overloading tests and WAGOs hold up as good as wire nuts.
Japanese light fixing are better .. they have a universal fitting that you click in place you can change a light out in seconds
The box is loose. It should be secured to the ceiling before proceding.
@@Kevin-mp5of I would be two paranoid to leave it that way. You never know what the next person will do. Probably put a fan on it :).
I've been an electrician for over 40 years.....I've NEVER had a problem or issue, hanging a light fixture.
Thanks for the feedback, I have to envision a target viewer for most of these videos to try and provide the information needed by that viewer. Specifically for this video, and most my videos, the target is not a 40 year electrician so not surprising that the info might seem a bit misaligned to your experience. Either way, thanks for letting me know.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Understood...I wasn't trying to be difficult.
I really like your channel...subscribed.
@@mr.q7943 no problem hear, I truly appreciate all the feedback I get. 👍
Of course, when doing this for such a long time you got your method of doing it. These connectors make it easier and faster to install a light fitting.
Fuk yah. Kick ass. Wago are the best. I hate marrettes
I'm sorry, I need something for more simple than this
😎👌🖖👍✌️🤓
👍
Be prepared to take that light back down and replace the burned up wagos!
@@Kevin-mp5of next you'll be claiming all the PEX plumbing is going to burst. WAGO connectors have been used for a long time in Europe without problems. Like PEX was before the American government agencies decided Europe knew what was good in new plumbing technology. Yet we still have people like you who choose to ignore that.
@@greggv8 I have been a service electrician for 30yrs, at least I can speak from experience, not a wago sales pitch. for every wire nut burned up I see 20 wagos
@@americanliberty4898 Being ignorant for 30 years is hardly an achievement. Use them to spec and there's no problem, pretty much all of Europe can attest to that.
@@ShatBriks hahahaha, another wago salesman
Noone said anything
Going too fast for a foyer
You're going too fast
It's pretty obvious this guy isn't a license electrician. I've seen a few of his videos, and he doesn't know proper methods and protocols
You bet!
Use wire nuts not wago
Agree.
@@Kevin-mp5of I prefer wire nuts
@@Kevin-mp5of I have always used wire nuts I am old school but I am only 20
@@Kevin-mp5of i am not that old
Wagos aren't the safest.
Please explain based upon what or a link to any issues?
they are UL listed so what's wrong with them?
@@Kevin-mp5of The interesting thing is, US electricians are using the same arguments German electricians did during the early 1990s: What a disgrace, they won't last, unsafe crap, in a few years the house will burn down, they disparage our skills.
And now? They're considered as being "state-of-the-art" and no one uses the old connectors anymore.
Thanks for sharing.