I asked my dad for help, but I watched the video prior to our task, and it made me able to troubleshoot and my dad was impressed by my trouble solving qualities ! what a beautiful father-daughter moment we had
My dad and I laughed at this 😄 this is so relatable! And then you find the 3 screws and the 4th one is gone and you have to go to the garage and try to find one that will match
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I somehow forgot my password. I would love any tricks you can give me!
@Wells Houston i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
My house was built in 1920. No way I'm doing this now. Plus, I now have to see what type of light bulbs I put in bc I didn't know about the fire risk 🥲
3:00 I wish it would have been more video of this part of the project. I didn't quite understand what they were talking about with the junction boxes and the "jumper".
@@mrpanda2655 so the only people who should be doing electrical work are people who already know how to do electrical work. Nobody should be trying to learn. Got it.
He needed to connect the two sets of wires, but they weren't long enough to meet in a single junction box. Wire connections need to be in a junction box for safety, so he put each set of wires in its nearest junction box, and added a jumper wire between the two boxes so they would be electrically connected. Wires A to box A, wires B to box B, new wires C connecting A and B, and all connections are made inside junction boxes. His new wires for the lamp can connect to either box, as they're all connected.
Joey Sullivan The old wire insulation was not rated to handle the heat that was leaving the fixture, heat kills insulation it’ll cause it to crack than eventually fail. All he did was use a method to move the insulation away .
You're talking about the "fake" LED Edison bulbs? We have one fixture that has these bulbs--the wife likes it. Of course, she is a spring chicken, at 70 yrs old.
What's with all of these convenient crawl spaces, wires actually correctly color coded (and the colors not faded), and wire you can easily bend with your fingers (and isn't brittle or stranded?)
I love this video. It was great how they addressed the exact issues I ran into (like the temperature rating, houses built before 1985, etc.). Thanks to that, I replaced my first light fixture.
Almost felt I could do this until it came to the part where I would need to go into the attic crawl space. Ugh, now to hire someone to do that part. Great video though.
@@mrpanda2655 The new fixture CAME with LED bulbs--those fake Edison bulbs. But, those fake Edisons fit into a standard E26 type base, so the fixture will (obviously) accept standard incandescent bulbs. In the future, someone could easily put 100W incandescent bulbs in the fixture--thereby over-lamping it--and possibly making a fire hazard.
The wiring standard is a little different in Canada. In Canada, it is called NMD (Non Metallic Dry) cable. NMD-1 (no ground) and NMD-3 (with ground) are rated for 60 C, NMD-6 is rated for 75 C, and NMD-7 (Later renamed NMD 90) is rated at 90 C. There also exists NMD-7 wire with cloth sheathing, which can be hard to distinguish from NMD-3. The text on the cable will indicate the temperature rating.
yeah there's nothing really wrong with cloth sheathing in principal as long as its rated. However especially in the states cloth nearly guarantees that its old.
@@mrpanda2655 In the context of this video that doesn't really make sense. By definition an asbestos impregnated sheathing is a high temp rated wire and we can presume the show did its due diligence in checking as well. HOWEVER the possibility that a cloth wire can have asbestos in it certainly means I need to qualify the point I made above. My point still stands though but as a home owner seeing cloth wiring means you need to be worried about age and asbestos.
The last part was everything! I feel equipped to attempt to change the light fixture in my kids room. If I discover nm cable that where I will defer to my dad. But this DIY gal is determined!
outstanding - more to it than I tought w/ regard to safety, but simple process. The only additional piece I'd like to see included is running the jumper between the boxes in the attic. Thank You - excellent work.
When you connect aluminum wires to cooper wires, doesn't it cause a galvanic reaction between those two metals. In order to prevent this, do I use the orange wire connectors?
Interesting solution. My in laws once asked me to change a fixture. I took the old one down and the insulation was all crispy - they put 100 watt bulbs in and the fixture said 60 watts max. I could only tape off the old wires.
It's only in the entryway--no one is going to sit there, and read the newspaper. We have some fake/retro Edison LEDs bulbs [800lm, 6W] in an outdoor covered porch fixture--plenty of illumination.
What do you electricians think, about using a (nonmetallic sheathed cable interconnector devices) 2020 NFPA 70 334.40(B) in this situation, it would of saved time and material ? The electrician would only of had to go into the attic once to determine that the cables were exposed, head back down, remove light box attach two interconnect devices too pre-existing nm cable than to nm-b cable insulated conductor rated at 90 degrees C. Leave devices in attic exposed, reinstall new nm-b cable into outlet light box and install luminaire?
I have seen these (you're talking about a Romex splice fitting?) in the Big Box stores, but I don't know of anyone who has one of these connectors in their home. Electricians in our area are still using junction boxes. I have heard--not verified--that these are used in trailers (mobile homes), and for wire "repairs," and can be buried behind drywall. But, they are sold at our local Home Depot (in southern CA), so someone must be buying them, and using them.
I have 2 wire cloth that's the same color. I read you can take an extension cord, plug it in. Then touch a multi meter to the other end of the extension cord ground to Then a probe to each wire to see which one is positive. I had a 1 bulb chandelier and while taking down a curtain rod, I hit the wires and cut it in half when I spun around. Luckily I was holding onto the fabric when the metal rod hit the wires. It broke so easy. I think I'll run a ground to a vent pipe in my attic. It's a pain getting up there so I haven't checked the box yet. I hate climbing through insulation lol
If you have a standard electrical panel in your unit with circuit switches, your wiring has definitely been updated since the days of knob/tube wiring of pre-WW2 construction. Even if you have physical breakers in your panel, it means you at least have romex NM wiring typically. Shouldn't be an issue unless you routinely stuff 100 watt bulbs in fixtures rated for less.
My problem is, the bulb came Off in the base and got stuck. Got it out, but Broke the plastic housing (Right side) for the bulb, and now the Opposite side (Left) doesn't want to work either. The right one was Flickery, so I'm wondering if the wiring for that light was shot somehow.
I just screwed the ground wire with one of the mounting screws instead of using the green screw. Should i reinstall? I don't have a ground wire coming out of my junction box which is metal
I see TOH left out the important stuff like they usually do. Watched the show on TV and was hoping video was better. I get the two new boxes, BUT how is the new boxes then connected together and finally to the light box? Where is the jumper he talks about?
My fixture has 2 black wires and 2 white, one from each side. They aren't connected with splice... do I twist them together with the single black wire in ceiling and cap?
Thats more of a consequence of the LEDs that are being used. They are "filament" style which I like to call micro Christmas light strings. They cause two problems. In order to avoid complicated power supplies (which is the main thing that justifies the cost of the filament type LEDs) they need to drop the voltage. Then there's no input filtering so if the power is say 130v it'll kill these bulbs much faster and if there's any ripple or noise it'll also kill those bulbs.
When you see the old-style cloth wiring how old is it before you need a full rewire?. All wire brakes down over time, and I was told you needed to replace all wire that is over 25 years old.
John Fithian-Franks You generally need to replace old cloth wiring ASAP. New technology and electrical demands are higher now therefore all new Romex wiring should be installed by a licensed electrician immediately.
I inherited a home with aluminum wiring. Quoted over 12k to rewire (3 bed 2 bath with living room and dining area, 1 car garage.... total sq ft is about 1400 or so I really don't know). How bad is aluminum wiring? House was built in 60s.
@@JenniferF2882 Hey Jennifer, I've worked on rewiring multiple houses that were originally done in aluminum. The issue isnt with the wire itself its generally at connection points where things can become hot and cause the wire to heat up. Copper holds up to heat better and oxidizes at a way lesser rate. Try getting a few different quotes though. If you are at all worried I would suggest switching to LED bulbs as they produce far less heat, you can also have your connections rewired and inspected for oxidization and re lubed up and pigtailed out in copper to the device as a cheaper option versus replacing the entire wire to the panel. Best bet is to just have it done as it will increase home value and its a solid excuse to do some redecorating
If you had all crawl space access above, should have just fished new NM right down to the light switch and replaced the old stuff. Pains me seeing junction boxes hidden away like that.
Uh...the junction boxes are NOT hidden--they are right there, in the attic crawl space. [would you prefer the junction boxes be displayed in the living space?!]
GhostViper24 Sure do like “finding” old knob & tube wiring in a house etc... BUT, sure don’t like working on it; or having to do all new runs to “update/upgrade” a house w/ all new electrical service & panels.....cuz you’re right; that’s when it sure does get “fun & interesting”😉 Luckily, don’t see; or work on houses like that much anymore (last time for me was about 12 yrs ago👍🏻).
Knob & Tube is illegal in most areas of the US. A house with it must be completely rewired before it can be sold and most insurance companies won’t insure a house with it.
So I had an electrician install lights and ceiling fans in my house he didnt cut off the breaker he just cut off the light switch .Do you have to cut off the breaker for lights and ceiling fans why isnt cutting light switch not sufficient? Thanks
My house was built in 1977. Now I’m scared to change my light fixtures. I’d rather call an electrician 😭 but the explanation at the end was great cause now I will make sure they can’t use the same cable.
No, you're just replacing one cable segment. Though eventually it'd be good to replace the old wiring if you have that old cloth-sheathed wiring, since it deteriorates over time. If you're wired with 60°C NM, your house is safe, but fixtures will need to be wired with modern 90°C NM since every manufacturer just slaps that sticker on (even though LED's generate far less heat).
The wire should be connected to a junction box somewhere. Follow it there. But if it's not easily accessible (common in old houses), you may need to start opening up walls.
What do you mean by “looking at the switch box?”Do you mean looking at the conductor’s insulation on the wires in the box? It’s the same wire as the one in the ceiling box. I’m interested in typical situations where you don’t have access to attics or crawl spaces, so the only visible wires are in the ceiling box.
flea10x6 you would have to be pretty dense not to follow along and be able to infer what’s going on, I’m an electrician and there isn’t one important detail he missed.
Treasper Killa see other comment/er lauding the Q&A later they EXPLAINED what he was doing/why. id you know what and why, you are less likely to miss something or (accidentally) take a short cut. recall that TOH is NOT meant for professionals. if you are union electrician, how long for you to become a journeyman?
The chances of the old wire junction box above the new fixture is burning is very slim because new fixtures have more insulation than the old ones. But if you want that level of safety than all the fixtures that's up against the ceiling in the house should be changed with new ones with more insulation. And all the old wiring in all the junction boxes in the house should be removed because it's just as much of a chance of a fire in the those boxes especially if the fixtures have old incandescent high wattage bulbs.
I'm about to install a modern fixture that has no insulation. Just a warning sticker that says, "Use only LED lamps. Incandescent and halogen lamps may cause severe thermal damage." The base of the bulb says, "Caution - Risk of Fire... MAX 25 watt type E26 listed LED only"
All this just in case someday somebody installs a 100w bulb in a fixture they obviously were not meant for in a location they are obviously not needed. The existing wiring was fine for the LED, and 100w and higher incandescent bulbs have been banned. The chances of somebody installing one there are next to nothing. Also the new fixture obviously has some serious heat insulation on the backside. I bet that sticker is just some random fake/misunderstood chinese translation. (1965 isn't a cut off year for anything) The fixture they were replacing also had typical screw in style bulbs, which could have been changed to 100w although highly unlikely. It worked just fine.
I was wondering the same. Could the fixture just had a warning placed near the bulb socket that said something to the effect of, "Only use LED bulbs” or "Use ## Watt max bulbs"? I just changed the bulbs in my ceiling fixture that had a 40 Watt max warning.
@@MarkRowsey Most modern fixtures have a "max wattage" sticker somewhere. I think the average homeowner would have just replaced the fixture [without the new junction box install, etc.]
@2:42 - The Solution - this didn't make sense to me, can anyone explain it in more detail? From my understanding the wire is old so its not rated for temps higher than 60C. My understanding if you need to run new wires all the way from the Electrical panel. Is that not the case? Funny Solution: don't buy an old home 🤣
Ok so im 1000000 percent sure nobody's ever going to put anything but led's into my new light fixture so is it ok to hook it up to my old wiring without having to do what this electrician did?
A well-done twist of the wires and a tight wire nut is a connection that will never fail. Wagos are great if the wires are too short to do a proper twist, or you are running out of room in the j-box. Otherwise, why spend the money on a device when it isn't any better than a wire nut.
@@bnasty267 Good summary. Both have positives and negatives. I like the WAGO type connectors when the wires are short or you have a bunch of wires to pigtail.
@@bnasty267 They start to cause problems if you use them in an area with many vibrations. Then they'll become loose, no matter how much you tighten them. Or you come over from time to time and tighten them again. That's one of the places where Wago connectors are much better. And it depends on your job, the Wagos are much faster to install. Strip the wires to proper length, lift the lever, insert wire and close lever...done. And there's not much potential to mess something up. There are many things which could be messed up with the twist-on connectors. BTW: Wago introduced their push-in connectors already in 1979. But it took more than 20 years here in Germany before they became state-of-the-art. The old school electricians were suspicious about them, they only trusted their known terminals and not such newfangled contraptions. They already started to introduce such push-in connectors with a push button to release the wires during the 1980s using them with switches first which were rated for 250V/10A. Later also outlets were fitted with such connectors when it was ensured that the connectors won't fail, and this time rated for 250V/16A. Now these days only the cheapest switches and outlets still have screw terminals, or if you buy special devices like new production of old school switches and outlets made of Bakelite. Or a such a special switch like a wall mounted pull-switch which is no longer a standard here, I installed one in my sleeping room.
I've been using them on roughs recently. Makes the finish easier, the helper makes up a bunch of pig tailed outlets and just plugs them in on the finish.
For those that don't get it. The wire size was still the same... It was the rating on the insulation around the conductors..So the Amperage rating is the same..
@@flat-earther There's nothing wrong with incandescent bulbs, but there is something wrong with making a RUclips video discussing bulbs and not even knowing how to pronounce the name of them. Hence me spelling it the way he said it.
@@closinginonclosure Oh okay I get you. BTW I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Question: Why done “you” have to pull a new cable from the circuit breaker box if the cable has cloth insulation all the way back to C.B. Box? Awwww you answered it right after I wrote the question. Me personally pending how long the run is I would ideally pull new cable as I upgraded items. Just a little O.C.D. I know, but being in my past “life” being an US Navy Aviation Electrician I’ve seen a lot of this that “ weren’t supposed to happen” with wiring. The NEC 2020 code book is out now too. I love your videos! I sure I have watched 99% of them🤠
Yeah the rubber or plastic insulating the copper becomes very brittle. Most of the time the copper is still malleable but the insulation just cracks and falls off. The cloth or NM sheathing usually is fine.
Doesn’t this only apply if you’re still using incandescent bulbs? Plenty of LED “Edison” bulbs to chose from. Heckuva lot easier than crawling around in a hot and dusty attic.
Until Joe Moron installs brighter bulbs and burns his house down. Even if *you* wouldn't, what about a future owner of the house? Kids or spouse when you're away? This doubly applies considering how bleeping dim those bulbs are. I think my wife's oil lamps put out more light.
@@ratdude747 I can't even put a number on how many times I've had this conversation with customers after "what if I promise to not put those bulbs in?"
Larry Bolan Incandescents are nearly obsolete and nowhere near as bright as LEDs of a similar wattage. Anyone changing a light in my house will be using the replacement bulbs I have in storage, and I highly doubt any future owners of my house (likely 20-30 years from now) will be hunting down antique incandescents.
@@mikebee02 I fully understand the argument. I'm an electrician myself and I have to have this conversation more often than not. The electrical code doesn't work on promises at some point in the future when most incandescent bulbs are completely gone or they make us start putting in a different kind of socket for lights, it may get written right out of the code book.
This is why people don’t like “professionals” this poor sucker had to pay extra for the wiring that’s never going to be necessary all because “somebody could put too hot of a bulb in here” 1. Try finding an incandescent bulb in the United States. 2. The fixture that’s there already is literally the same issue, it just doesn’t have the sticker
@@flat-eartherCutting your light bill to 1/10th the amont using LED's will help the planet more than not "creating harmful electricity and blue light" when you use incandescent bulbs.
I mean they should replace all that old wire in their home, however to replace a bit of it on the assumption that people will put in a bulb that is outlawed in significant parts of the modern/western world is a bit weird.
My only question is: Why did he feel the need to replace the existing light box? With plenty of access above, why not just push the existing wires out of the existing box, make your connections in the new junction boxes, and feed your new switch-leg wire into the existing box and pop penny blanks in the unused holes? He didn't say anything about the existing box needing to be replaced.
I asked my dad for help, but I watched the video prior to our task, and it made me able to troubleshoot and my dad was impressed by my trouble solving qualities ! what a beautiful father-daughter moment we had
I asked my dad for help and later that day he got mad at me and said he wouldn’t help me. So here I am lol
4:15 is where I drop the screw onto the floor ten times.
My dad and I laughed at this 😄 this is so relatable! And then you find the 3 screws and the 4th one is gone and you have to go to the garage and try to find one that will match
Magnetic bits and screws, they saving you more time than you realize
I REALLY find the *explanations* of WHY y'all do certain things to be really helpful. Didn't realize the BULB HEAT would be that impactful. Thanks!
Same
I'm really glad the last Q & A part happened. It cleared a lot of the questions I had
Agreed. This Old House has been a lot better about this recently. Great job!
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow forgot my password. I would love any tricks you can give me!
@Riley Gage Instablaster ;)
@Wells Houston i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Wells Houston it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out :D
Who else was thinking about changing their ceiling light but isn't going to anymore?
Yes immediately lost me at
Omg... Same here😂😂
My house was built in 1920. No way I'm doing this now. Plus, I now have to see what type of light bulbs I put in bc I didn't know about the fire risk 🥲
Right
Me!
Kevin always asks the questions that were left out of the demonstration. He's the best host.
3:00 I wish it would have been more video of this part of the project. I didn't quite understand what they were talking about with the junction boxes and the "jumper".
Joey Sullivan you don’t need to understand it because if you don’t already understand it you shouldn’t be doing electrical work
@@mrpanda2655 so the only people who should be doing electrical work are people who already know how to do electrical work. Nobody should be trying to learn. Got it.
He needed to connect the two sets of wires, but they weren't long enough to meet in a single junction box. Wire connections need to be in a junction box for safety, so he put each set of wires in its nearest junction box, and added a jumper wire between the two boxes so they would be electrically connected. Wires A to box A, wires B to box B, new wires C connecting A and B, and all connections are made inside junction boxes. His new wires for the lamp can connect to either box, as they're all connected.
Joey Sullivan The old wire insulation was not rated to handle the heat that was leaving the fixture, heat kills insulation it’ll cause it to crack than eventually fail. All he did was use a method to move the insulation away .
@@michaellovell3659 No you don't get it. You shouldn't be doing electrical work until you know what you're doing.
There's always that perfect crawl space
Yeah, I was wondering where all the insulation was.
Edison bulbs are a nice addition for any hipster configuration.
RetroSteve yeah its shitty light output
If you're against progress and having better light in your entryway maybe.
You're talking about the "fake" LED Edison bulbs? We have one fixture that has these bulbs--the wife likes it. Of course, she is a spring chicken, at 70 yrs old.
Nice to learn about the temperature ratings on older and first generation of romex wiring..
What's with all of these convenient crawl spaces, wires actually correctly color coded (and the colors not faded), and wire you can easily bend with your fingers (and isn't brittle or stranded?)
Heath is too professional, too efficient, too knowledgeable. Now I feel inadequate and will never unscrew the switch plate from the wall.
DarknessFalls29 So you prefer sloppy and a unprofessional?
Veni Vidi Vici That was a tongue in cheek comment. Not meant to be taken seriously.
Lol
HAHA same here. I ain't touching this now. I feel way too unsure now after watching this. LOL
Nor the outlet one prbably
I love this video. It was great how they addressed the exact issues I ran into (like the temperature rating, houses built before 1985, etc.). Thanks to that, I replaced my first light fixture.
Almost felt I could do this until it came to the part where I would need to go into the attic crawl space. Ugh, now to hire someone to do that part. Great video though.
by the first 2 minutes of this video i’m ready to just call a professional!!!
Mel Lio
It’s easy work when there’s a crawl space or open attic above.
Just put LED bulbs in
@@mrpanda2655 like Heath said. it can be a issue down the road if someone else was too but different bulbs in the fixture.
Colin Beirne regular bulbs wont do anything
@@mrpanda2655 The new fixture CAME with LED bulbs--those fake Edison bulbs. But, those fake Edisons fit into a standard E26 type base, so the fixture will (obviously) accept standard incandescent bulbs. In the future, someone could easily put 100W incandescent bulbs in the fixture--thereby over-lamping it--and possibly making a fire hazard.
Heath's episodes are very instructive. Appreciate his explanations--clear, and easy to understand.
Lost me at the crawl space 😂 I will leave it alone!
The wiring standard is a little different in Canada. In Canada, it is called NMD (Non Metallic Dry) cable. NMD-1 (no ground) and NMD-3 (with ground) are rated for 60 C, NMD-6 is rated for 75 C, and NMD-7 (Later renamed NMD 90) is rated at 90 C. There also exists NMD-7 wire with cloth sheathing, which can be hard to distinguish from NMD-3. The text on the cable will indicate the temperature rating.
yeah there's nothing really wrong with cloth sheathing in principal as long as its rated. However especially in the states cloth nearly guarantees that its old.
penguins forall it was made of asbestos
@@mrpanda2655 In the context of this video that doesn't really make sense. By definition an asbestos impregnated sheathing is a high temp rated wire and we can presume the show did its due diligence in checking as well. HOWEVER the possibility that a cloth wire can have asbestos in it certainly means I need to qualify the point I made above. My point still stands though but as a home owner seeing cloth wiring means you need to be worried about age and asbestos.
Also in Canada we only really us # 12 wiring on 20 amp circuit for 15 amps we use #14
The last part was everything! I feel equipped to attempt to change the light fixture in my kids room. If I discover nm cable that where I will defer to my dad. But this DIY gal is determined!
How’d it go?
@shaunatate7740 My husband did it when he saw me getting ready to do it. 🤣🤣🤣
outstanding - more to it than I tought w/ regard to safety, but simple process. The only additional piece I'd like to see included is running the jumper between the boxes in the attic. Thank You - excellent work.
Thank you TOH for doing a comprehensiveness video on a topic and no dumbing anything down.
Heath is the man! Great electrician.
Good question at the end. I wish they showed what he did with those junction boxes and the jumper and explained that better.
When you connect aluminum wires to cooper wires, doesn't it cause a galvanic reaction between those two metals. In order to prevent this, do I use the orange wire connectors?
Interesting solution.
My in laws once asked me to change a fixture. I took the old one down and the insulation was all crispy - they put 100 watt bulbs in and the fixture said 60 watts max. I could only tape off the old wires.
lucky the house did not have a fire
wow, this video filmed really well. Very educational. I learned a lot. You guys just earned yourself a new subscriber 😁😁. thanks for sharing.
I bet he goes to the store to buy some brighter bulbs in the morning.
It's only in the entryway--no one is going to sit there, and read the newspaper. We have some fake/retro Edison LEDs bulbs [800lm, 6W] in an outdoor covered porch fixture--plenty of illumination.
I recognize that old wire from the house I grew up in.
Should the stranded wires be pre twisted before using the wire nut connecting to the solid wire??
The old wires that were pushed up to the addict and connected to the 2 junction boxes are no longer in use?
What do you electricians think, about using a (nonmetallic sheathed cable interconnector devices) 2020 NFPA 70 334.40(B) in this situation, it would of saved time and material ?
The electrician would only of had to go into the attic once to determine that the cables were exposed, head back down, remove light box attach two interconnect devices too pre-existing nm cable than to nm-b cable insulated conductor rated at 90 degrees C. Leave devices in attic exposed, reinstall new nm-b cable into outlet light box and install luminaire?
I have seen these (you're talking about a Romex splice fitting?) in the Big Box stores, but I don't know of anyone who has one of these connectors in their home. Electricians in our area are still using junction boxes. I have heard--not verified--that these are used in trailers (mobile homes), and for wire "repairs," and can be buried behind drywall. But, they are sold at our local Home Depot (in southern CA), so someone must be buying them, and using them.
I have 2 wire cloth that's the same color. I read you can take an extension cord, plug it in. Then touch a multi meter to the other end of the extension cord ground to Then a probe to each wire to see which one is positive. I had a 1 bulb chandelier and while taking down a curtain rod, I hit the wires and cut it in half when I spun around. Luckily I was holding onto the fabric when the metal rod hit the wires. It broke so easy. I think I'll run a ground to a vent pipe in my attic. It's a pain getting up there so I haven't checked the box yet. I hate climbing through insulation lol
Makes me so angry that hardware has never evolved, so light fixtures aren't as easy to replace as plug in, rotate to secure. Obnoxious!
Omg this truly makes me wish I had gone to school to be an electrician instead of throwing my money down the potty for a degree I'm barely using
You can still learn.
I absolutely love looking at peoples hand movements and techniques. You can tell that he's done this many many times.
Came to see a random video, and now I'm panicking about the light fixture recently installed in my 1920s built condo.
lmao run
If you have a standard electrical panel in your unit with circuit switches, your wiring has definitely been updated since the days of knob/tube wiring of pre-WW2 construction. Even if you have physical breakers in your panel, it means you at least have romex NM wiring typically. Shouldn't be an issue unless you routinely stuff 100 watt bulbs in fixtures rated for less.
@@drpfaff you just reminded me to downgrade my lightbulbs from 100 to maybe 60 watts. I like the brightness, so I usually get 100w.
@@lebu5825 use new LED bulbs ,they dont get hot and a 100 watt rated only uses about 8 watts power.
My problem is, the bulb came Off in the base and got stuck. Got it out, but Broke the plastic housing (Right side) for the bulb, and now the Opposite side (Left) doesn't want to work either.
The right one was Flickery, so I'm wondering if the wiring for that light was shot somehow.
I just screwed the ground wire with one of the mounting screws instead of using the green screw. Should i reinstall? I don't have a ground wire coming out of my junction box which is metal
Would I recommend it no will work, yes there shouldn’t be an problems as long as the ground wire is properly connected
How do you know/find out what temp the wires are rated for?
I see TOH left out the important stuff like they usually do. Watched the show on TV and was hoping video was better. I get the two new boxes, BUT how is the new boxes then connected together and finally to the light box? Where is the jumper he talks about?
What if the house is built in 60s and has the metal MC cable? Is there an old mc style cable vs today’s standard MC?
But what about these newer light fixtures that have the LEDs integrated into the fixture itself- no bulbs to change at all?
My fixture has 2 black wires and 2 white, one from each side. They aren't connected with splice... do I twist them together with the single black wire in ceiling and cap?
Very informative, Thank You !!!
Shitty light fixture and no light output either the bulbs is using
Yeah the old light fixture looked WAY better
Thats more of a consequence of the LEDs that are being used. They are "filament" style which I like to call micro Christmas light strings. They cause two problems. In order to avoid complicated power supplies (which is the main thing that justifies the cost of the filament type LEDs) they need to drop the voltage. Then there's no input filtering so if the power is say 130v it'll kill these bulbs much faster and if there's any ripple or noise it'll also kill those bulbs.
NightHawk J30 Shitty video too
@@vanessah4545🤔🤔😂😂
When you see the old-style cloth wiring how old is it before you need a full rewire?. All wire brakes down over time, and I was told you needed to replace all wire that is over 25 years old.
John Fithian-Franks You generally need to replace old cloth wiring ASAP. New technology and electrical demands are higher now therefore all new Romex wiring should be installed by a licensed electrician immediately.
John Fithian-Franks Cloth wiring was used before the 60’s and most homeowner’s insurance companies won’t insure it so yes a full rewire is a must !
Don’t let the scare tactics of salesmen electricians get to you. I have an old house and you can gradually upgrade overtime.
I inherited a home with aluminum wiring. Quoted over 12k to rewire (3 bed 2 bath with living room and dining area, 1 car garage.... total sq ft is about 1400 or so I really don't know).
How bad is aluminum wiring? House was built in 60s.
@@JenniferF2882 Hey Jennifer, I've worked on rewiring multiple houses that were originally done in aluminum. The issue isnt with the wire itself its generally at connection points where things can become hot and cause the wire to heat up. Copper holds up to heat better and oxidizes at a way lesser rate. Try getting a few different quotes though. If you are at all worried I would suggest switching to LED bulbs as they produce far less heat, you can also have your connections rewired and inspected for oxidization and re lubed up and pigtailed out in copper to the device as a cheaper option versus replacing the entire wire to the panel. Best bet is to just have it done as it will increase home value and its a solid excuse to do some redecorating
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Do those bulbs really glow that orange? I know the old ones do but I didn't expect the new ones to be the same. Who would want orange light like that?
Our "fake" Edisons are "warm white," with a temperature of 2700K (which is typical). Not really meant for a place where you need bright, white light.
If you had all crawl space access above, should have just fished new NM right down to the light switch and replaced the old stuff. Pains me seeing junction boxes hidden away like that.
@@tii2015 when its a situation like that you have no choice but to cut drywall unfortunately
In this case, the electrician did what was required to do the job safely, within the homeowner’s budget. 😉
Who honestly cares? He did it the right way and thats what matters. Two junction boxes side by side in an attic is least concern.
Uh...the junction boxes are NOT hidden--they are right there, in the attic crawl space. [would you prefer the junction boxes be displayed in the living space?!]
What about knob and tube wiring with no ground that falls apart when you touch it that’s when it gets fun
GhostViper24 Sure do like “finding” old knob & tube wiring in a house etc... BUT, sure don’t like working on it; or having to do all new runs to “update/upgrade” a house w/ all new electrical service & panels.....cuz you’re right; that’s when it sure does get “fun & interesting”😉 Luckily, don’t see; or work on houses like that much anymore (last time for me was about 12 yrs ago👍🏻).
Needs replaced if found, else she'll burn on down
@@Aepek - In My house 2 of the attic lights still have old knob & tube. My house is 100 yrs now this year.
Knob & Tube is illegal in most areas of the US. A house with it must be completely rewired before it can be sold and most insurance companies won’t insure a house with it.
I just priced a K+T job... Might of added a few extra bucks in hopes they decline
I don’t have a crawl space, so what do you do then?
The chances of a fire is very slim. Install fixtures with lots of insulation and put LED bulbs in.
So I had an electrician install lights and ceiling fans in my house he didnt cut off the breaker he just cut off the light switch .Do you have to cut off the breaker for lights and ceiling fans why isnt cutting light switch not sufficient? Thanks
Sometimes your neutral line can still have power and can give you a shock. That's why.
At least he read the warning instructions..most people do not..
My house was built in 1977. Now I’m scared to change my light fixtures. I’d rather call an electrician 😭 but the explanation at the end was great cause now I will make sure they can’t use the same cable.
Sometimes it's best to know when to call a professional when it's above your comfort level.
If you have incandescent bulbs in your fixtures make sure to no more than 60 watts or LED bulbs
@@KevinWta I actually used to get the 100w because they provide more light 🤦♀️
@@lebu5825 I only use incandescent bulbs because LEDs create harmful dirty electricity and blue light. I use 40W my room isn't big so it's enough.
@@flat-earther Literally all white bulbs produce blue light too. Also what do you mean by dirty electricity? That doesn’t exist
How much would that type of fix cost tho?
3:49 that’s the cleanest wire strip I’ve seen on romex
Wow I didn’t know that. I thought you could put and light fixtures on the ceiling. What about the electrical outlet?
You can, this is totally not needed.
So do we change our electrical wiring? How much i mean do we rewire our entire home?
No, you're just replacing one cable segment. Though eventually it'd be good to replace the old wiring if you have that old cloth-sheathed wiring, since it deteriorates over time. If you're wired with 60°C NM, your house is safe, but fixtures will need to be wired with modern 90°C NM since every manufacturer just slaps that sticker on (even though LED's generate far less heat).
What if you can't access the wire box from upper front?
The wire should be connected to a junction box somewhere. Follow it there. But if it's not easily accessible (common in old houses), you may need to start opening up walls.
Is NM-B also printed on the conductor insulation (not just the sheathing)? Sheathing isn’t usually visible in this situation.
If its sheathed wire basically never will. However you should be able to tell by looking at the switch box.
What do you mean by “looking at the switch box?”Do you mean looking at the conductor’s insulation on the wires in the box? It’s the same wire as the one in the ceiling box. I’m interested in typical situations where you don’t have access to attics or crawl spaces, so the only visible wires are in the ceiling box.
Informative, Thanks.
Wow. Learned a new term. “Lampage” 🤓
No itz amperage 🤔🤔😂😂
What happened to Scott. This guy didn’t really communicate well what he was doing.
flea10x6 you would have to be pretty dense not to follow along and be able to infer what’s going on, I’m an electrician and there isn’t one important detail he missed.
Treasper Killa see other comment/er lauding the Q&A later they EXPLAINED what he was doing/why. id you know what and why, you are less likely to miss something or (accidentally) take a short cut.
recall that TOH is NOT meant for professionals. if you are union electrician, how long for you to become a journeyman?
His contract Expired
what happens if you have old wires throughout the whole house?
That's why the safety argument in this video is pointless. If you worry about future hypothetical scenarios, you have to rewire every fixture.
* cry
* save up lots of money
What I got from this is I need an electrician
Nice job!
Great job, Heath!
The chances of the old wire junction box above the new fixture is burning is very slim because new fixtures have more insulation than the old ones. But if you want that level of safety than all the fixtures that's up against the ceiling in the house should be changed with new ones with more insulation. And all the old wiring in all the junction boxes in the house should be removed because it's just as much of a chance of a fire in the those boxes especially if the fixtures have old incandescent high wattage bulbs.
I'm about to install a modern fixture that has no insulation. Just a warning sticker that says, "Use only LED lamps. Incandescent and halogen lamps may cause severe thermal damage." The base of the bulb says, "Caution - Risk of Fire... MAX 25 watt type E26 listed LED only"
All this just in case someday somebody installs a 100w bulb in a fixture they obviously were not meant for in a location they are obviously not needed. The existing wiring was fine for the LED, and 100w and higher incandescent bulbs have been banned. The chances of somebody installing one there are next to nothing. Also the new fixture obviously has some serious heat insulation on the backside. I bet that sticker is just some random fake/misunderstood chinese translation. (1965 isn't a cut off year for anything)
The fixture they were replacing also had typical screw in style bulbs, which could have been changed to 100w although highly unlikely. It worked just fine.
I was wondering the same. Could the fixture just had a warning placed near the bulb socket that said something to the effect of, "Only use LED bulbs” or "Use ## Watt max bulbs"? I just changed the bulbs in my ceiling fixture that had a 40 Watt max warning.
@@MarkRowsey Most modern fixtures have a "max wattage" sticker somewhere. I think the average homeowner would have just replaced the fixture [without the new junction box install, etc.]
Wasn’t the old wire rated for a sixty watt bulb? So why not just use sixty watt incandescent bulbs and skip going into a crawl space?
@@castaway123100 You clearly have no concept of what is going on here. Please do not play with electricity.
I only use incandescent bulbs because LEDs create harmful dirty electricity and blue light.
Can you even buy an old school light bulb?
I only use incandescent bulbs because LEDs create harmful dirty electricity and blue light
@2:42 - The Solution - this didn't make sense to me, can anyone explain it in more detail? From my understanding the wire is old so its not rated for temps higher than 60C. My understanding if you need to run new wires all the way from the Electrical panel. Is that not the case?
Funny Solution: don't buy an old home 🤣
I learned how to fix the problem in a old 🏠.
Ok so im 1000000 percent sure nobody's ever going to put anything but led's into my new light fixture so is it ok to hook it up to my old wiring without having to do what this electrician did?
Ok. How does he strip the jacket so fast. Can you just do a video on that.
Jared Parker he has a specific set of wire strippers looks like the Klein tools K1422, But there are others .
phew, so that problem with the old wires DOESNT apply when installing a pendant? Since the bulb will be likely several feet away. it wont overheat.
I’m not a fan of stranded wire with solid connected with a wire nut… that’s where the Wago’s 221 shine and have a much solid connection
there are two pairs of black and white wires, one for each bulb, but I just see one white wire going with the wire in the ceiling.
Have you guys in US ever heard of modern „WAGO“ Clamps for connecting wires? Instead of these total antiquated rotating clamps from the 70s?
A well-done twist of the wires and a tight wire nut is a connection that will never fail. Wagos are great if the wires are too short to do a proper twist, or you are running out of room in the j-box. Otherwise, why spend the money on a device when it isn't any better than a wire nut.
@@bnasty267 Good summary. Both have positives and negatives. I like the WAGO type connectors when the wires are short or you have a bunch of wires to pigtail.
@@mae2759 yes, and I really like Wago when mixing wire sizes and/or standed/solid like light fixtures do
@@bnasty267 They start to cause problems if you use them in an area with many vibrations. Then they'll become loose, no matter how much you tighten them. Or you come over from time to time and tighten them again. That's one of the places where Wago connectors are much better.
And it depends on your job, the Wagos are much faster to install. Strip the wires to proper length, lift the lever, insert wire and close lever...done. And there's not much potential to mess something up. There are many things which could be messed up with the twist-on connectors.
BTW:
Wago introduced their push-in connectors already in 1979. But it took more than 20 years here in Germany before they became state-of-the-art. The old school electricians were suspicious about them, they only trusted their known terminals and not such newfangled contraptions. They already started to introduce such push-in connectors with a push button to release the wires during the 1980s using them with switches first which were rated for 250V/10A. Later also outlets were fitted with such connectors when it was ensured that the connectors won't fail, and this time rated for 250V/16A. Now these days only the cheapest switches and outlets still have screw terminals, or if you buy special devices like new production of old school switches and outlets made of Bakelite. Or a such a special switch like a wall mounted pull-switch which is no longer a standard here, I installed one in my sleeping room.
I've been using them on roughs recently. Makes the finish easier, the helper makes up a bunch of pig tailed outlets and just plugs them in on the finish.
Y que va a pasa con los de las madera que ello cobra 2.500 por medis que vamos hace con eso
For those that don't get it. The wire size was still the same... It was the rating on the insulation around the conductors..So the Amperage rating is the same..
Would be nice if every trade/contractor would be responsible for air sealing when they work. Energy conservation and efficiency takes a village
with those new LED bulbs that fixture will never get as hot as the one your replacing see the new wire is rated at 105 c
1:29 Did he say "incanescent"? 🤦♂️
Well I only use incandescent bulbs because LEDs create harmful dirty electricity and blue light
@@flat-earther There's nothing wrong with incandescent bulbs, but there is something wrong with making a RUclips video discussing bulbs and not even knowing how to pronounce the name of them. Hence me spelling it the way he said it.
@@closinginonclosure Oh okay I get you.
BTW I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
@@flat-earther no
Thanks so much!
I also remember those old wires.
Question: Why done “you” have to pull a new cable from the circuit breaker box if the cable has cloth insulation all the way back to C.B. Box? Awwww you answered it right after I wrote the question. Me personally pending how long the run is I would ideally pull new cable as I upgraded items. Just a little O.C.D. I know, but being in my past “life” being an US Navy Aviation Electrician I’ve seen a lot of this that “ weren’t supposed to happen” with wiring. The NEC 2020 code book is out now too. I love your videos! I sure I have watched 99% of them🤠
I've seen this so many times.. wires burnt to a crisp!!!
Eric Wotton
More accurately, the old cloth jackets.
@@RobertLeBlancPhoto even more accurately. The insulation under the cloth jacket
Yeah the rubber or plastic insulating the copper becomes very brittle. Most of the time the copper is still malleable but the insulation just cracks and falls off. The cloth or NM sheathing usually is fine.
@@ericwotton2046 my favorite is old BX that crumbles if you sneeze in the neighbors house
Doesn’t this only apply if you’re still using incandescent bulbs? Plenty of LED “Edison” bulbs to chose from. Heckuva lot easier than crawling around in a hot and dusty attic.
Until Joe Moron installs brighter bulbs and burns his house down. Even if *you* wouldn't, what about a future owner of the house? Kids or spouse when you're away?
This doubly applies considering how bleeping dim those bulbs are. I think my wife's oil lamps put out more light.
@@ratdude747 I can't even put a number on how many times I've had this conversation with customers after "what if I promise to not put those bulbs in?"
Larry Bolan Incandescents are nearly obsolete and nowhere near as bright as LEDs of a similar wattage. Anyone changing a light in my house will be using the replacement bulbs I have in storage, and I highly doubt any future owners of my house (likely 20-30 years from now) will be hunting down antique incandescents.
@@mikebee02 I fully understand the argument. I'm an electrician myself and I have to have this conversation more often than not. The electrical code doesn't work on promises at some point in the future when most incandescent bulbs are completely gone or they make us start putting in a different kind of socket for lights, it may get written right out of the code book.
This is why people don’t like “professionals” this poor sucker had to pay extra for the wiring that’s never going to be necessary all because “somebody could put too hot of a bulb in here” 1. Try finding an incandescent bulb in the United States. 2. The fixture that’s there already is literally the same issue, it just doesn’t have the sticker
I only use incandescent bulbs because LEDs create harmful dirty electricity and blue light.
nice 👍
Imagine when he's like alright let's give it a try it just caught fire
Use LED bulbs or incandescent bulbs of 60 Watts or less.
I only use incandescent bulbs because LEDs create harmful dirty electricity and blue light.
@@flat-eartherCutting your light bill to 1/10th the amont using LED's will help the planet more than not "creating harmful electricity and blue light" when you use incandescent bulbs.
@@KevinWta I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
I'm learnding
Ugly dim fixture
It's the fixture the homeowner wanted. Does the "pro" in your moniker refer to "professional" lighting fixture critic?"
Makes me LOL! I have changed these in my sleep as a teen. You just have to have sense.
I mean they should replace all that old wire in their home, however to replace a bit of it on the assumption that people will put in a bulb that is outlawed in significant parts of the modern/western world is a bit weird.
I do monly use incandescent bulbs because LEDs create harmful dirty electricity and blue light
me: *gets confused*
okay dad help me
So why didn't he need a new wire all the way to the panel?
Because the heat from the lamp is what causes the damage. Once it’s away from the lamp, it’s ok.
If you watch the whole video you would know the answer.
Da buld is too close 2 da insulation more heat would mean fryed insulation nd wire equal fire hazard da new wire has higher heat ratin
@@dd___dc A refresher course on spelling and grammar wouldn't be a bad idea.
@@Jg.Wentworth.877cashnow i just refreshed ma spellin nd grammar: CD dez nutz 🤔🤔😂😂
I noticed you did not terse the wires.
My only question is: Why did he feel the need to replace the existing light box? With plenty of access above, why not just push the existing wires out of the existing box, make your connections in the new junction boxes, and feed your new switch-leg wire into the existing box and pop penny blanks in the unused holes? He didn't say anything about the existing box needing to be replaced.
Joist above, wires coming from opposite directions.