Broken Bolt Extractors and Drill Bits
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- In a recent SMA video • Removing A Broken Brak... I removed a broken brake bleeder. In the comment section of that video a lot of you asked what kind of broken bolt extractors I used. So much so that i could not answer all of them! So by popular demand here is a video showing you a few of my extraction devices I use. I highlight some of the features I like and dislike about each kind. I also show some of the drills and drill bits I like to use.
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--Eric O.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.
I have that same Blue Point set. I haven't used it much (thanks God). Torx bits...now there's something I haven't thought of. Thanks again for making my Sunday morning just a little better. Oh crap, it's Monday already! I always learn something if I pay attention.
Great practical advice from an experienced professional who knows the time of day.
it is 3:04pm when I read this
+sma - LOL!
How do you give the nut a shot of oxygen when using a brazing tip?
Glad im not the only one who uses Torx sockets as extractors!!!! They work great for allen headed fasteners.
me to i use torx as extractors came to me natrually to use them many years now-they work very good folks
I find the spline or triple squares work wonders for rounded out allen bolts 👍
I've used that method before when rebuilding my front forks. Very useful technique.
Good ol self made auto channel. My favorite mechanic.
It's "South Main", not self made.
Thank you Erick O. for this video. I watched it 2 days AFTER I broke an easyout off in one of my busted bolts 2 weeks ago. Took it to a shop and they removed my bolts. However, last night while putting the exhaust manifolds back on, I noticed they forgot to remove one. It was pretty far down, and I had already drilled a hole. I was upset, but then I remembered what you said about torque bits! I grabbed a longer T-15, smashed it down in and slowly removed it. I'm doing a head job on a V10 Excursion myself because of your videos! Thank You from WA State, 2700 miles away!
I love these SMA videos where the subject applies to all vehicles. Your brake hardware, caliper rebuild, bolt extraction, and u joint videos are all full of GOOD information.
Hey look Mikey likes it!! ruclips.net/video/vYEXzx-TINc/видео.html Haha thanks man sorry but your name made me think of this
oh, I been hearing that since I can remember. It doesnt help that I looked just like that kid when I was little.
I got the snap-on 48-pc master extractor set, (Irwin made) simply because of the warranty service. The left-hand drill bits in that set are Irwin m42 8% cobalt bits, and a GODSEND for heat-hardened manifold bolts.
Definitely would love to see a toolbox tour, when time permits. Thanks for what you do & helping us, the viewers.
I had a crank dampener bolt break inside of a 617 merc diesel, that bluepoint set got it right out. I was pretty impressed.
I'm a production mechanic at Coca-Cola. Fixing industrial machine all day long. Deal with a few broken bolts during the week. Stainless steel is the worse.
Great video as always.
Thanks for sharing.
Eric as a fellow NY guy this kind of info is gold. Thanks for walking us through that.
Very good! I owned an air conditioning and radiator shop for 30 years. Bolt together radiators with aluminum tanks were a nightmare. The steel bolts would seize up. I had Snap-On sets just as you showed. I also found the kit with the straight extractors worked better than the tapered extractors. We used heat when ever we could.
Being a prior Acft . mechanic the Johnson bar was my Favorites for removing leading edge slats tons of broken screws. Thanks for your tool selection always good learning from other Professionals.
This video brought to you by Dr. Eric O, professional extractor of all things hardened.
Just for future reference, the correct name for "Stubby Drill Bits" is "Screw Machine Drill Bits". McMaster-Carr is a great source for these and they really are the way to go rather than the typical Jobber's Length drills that are most common. Normally, you don't need the length of the Jobber's Length Bit and the flex that the additional length produces is counter-productive. Screw Machine Bits are the way to go.
yeah I added them to my store too.
I agree. And the best screw machine length bits are cobalt. They have a split point and don't walk when starting a drilled hole, not to mention they outlast high speed steel bits.
Thank you Sir. Excellent informative and inspiring video. Have just bought myself a straight fluted set, couldn't figure it out, saw your show from over the pond there, Most impressed! Shall be viewing some more avidly. Cheers. Ian
I like that you included the torx bits , but I always grab my triple squares. Probably the only reason I actually like having those things :P
Nothing beats the handy torchyy/welding nut trick. That's my way to get ANY broken fasteners.
Not this time!
The Blue-Point (Ridgid) straight fluted extractor is definitely the best one. I used my dad's from the Snap-On truck growing up and recently ordered one of my own direct from Ridgid.
I'll say it again I wish you were in NJ. Experience is everything.
Just to be clear I was only asking if the heat did mess with the temper and I understand now because I use to work in a body shop and if one of my snap on or matco tools broke I just had it replaced ...people who do not know trust me you pay enough to purchase the tool that they should fix or replace any broken tools ....so sorry if you thought I was trying to bash you or anything ....can't imagine the rust you must deal with ....I live in Tennessee ...so not as bad here but still your information on removing broken fasteners .....very educational
It makes a big difference when you have proper tools Eric love your shop 👍
great videos eric , im in the uk so most of what you do is your american cars , but im into anything automotive and realy like to watch and it gives me ideas to problem solve , as a lot of what you do does cross over to what we work on in the uk , i will admit i do own a 4x4 manufactured in the usa which i must admit i am very impressed with , better than any thing the japanese or the british have ever built
keep on makeing the video they are very entertaining and do love your way of working many thanks
Being a welder my favorite extractor is made by Lincoln electric and Miller electric hahaha. I usually use the washer and nut trick and wham bam shes out ! I usually run tig if I can though.
I'm always amazed at how precise you are with a torch when it comes to removing bolts.....seems like an art.
Saw your store for the first time. Recognize a lot of the tools you use. I'll buy what I can. Thanks Eric.
Good tip there with the Torx bits. Having an old jeep wrangler I use to actually drive a lot, I've managed to amass great quantity's of Torx stuff....
Excellent video thank you ! Had an npt steel plug sit very tight in a cylinder head and stripped it out (was a hex) I think due to the high temp thread sealant on there. Waited several days now gathering up info on how to proceed. I settled on two different sets of the straight flutes and your vid and experience (which is obvious in hearing you talk 🙌🏼) has made me confident I’ll be able to pull it out easily and that I chose the correct tools for the job. 👍🏼👍🏼
LOL people from the southern USA probably don't know what a rusted or broken off bolt is. I've never thought of using a torqs bit I will have to try that. Good drill bits are the key, you can never get the small bits sharp so I will go out and buy a bunch of new ones. Being skilled with a torch is also important heating shit up is a must.
This tutorial is worth its weight in gold!!!!
Just don't go and buy a cheap set of easy outs, they tend to be very brittle and break off in the hole. That really will ruin your day, they may be brittle, but they are damned hard so you won't be drilling it back out! Nice selection there, Eric, and i agree with the tip about using torx bits, i have had great success using those.
If you break one try chipping it out with a hammer and punch and picking out the pieces since they are so brittle. If that fails, pretty much your only hope is either a solid carbide drill or a diamond drill/burr.
I got some cheapie reverse drill bits off amazon and the first one snapped right off :(
I was thinking the same thing.... perhaps getting a set of the snap on extractors would be worth every penny when they dont shatter like glass
Arie M
I bought a set from hazard frought , first time I ever saw a drill bit bend 90 degrees
4:00 ~beats it in further~ nice pre-valentines day advice!
Good point you raised about your third example, the tapered twister extractor. I have used them and had the same problem with them that you had, that reverse force on the o.d. of the screw. I will be buying the straight tapered type.
Bought those Snap On fluted ones back in the 70's....work great. Glad I had kin in snap on corporate.
every time you break one is like why cant it just go smooth today haha
The torque bit idea is awesome
*Lisle* makes nice quality, affordable sets too. Their Honda Crank Bolt socket is exceptional.
more than just a Honda crank bolt socket.... spoiler alert for upcoming vid fyi
you the man, very helpful.
Thanks for the inspiration !
Keep on trucking (from France) !
Some can teach and some can do. Very rare to find someone who excels at both. What a pleasure to find my new favorite channel. Can watch for hours .
Thanks Eric. Much appreciated.
Hope to see a chevy squarebody diesel in there.
Never knew about using a TORX style bit for extracting a bolt ...good to know . Maybe the impact versions would be the better choice .
I think it's good idea to use antisieze when u install new exhaust bolts bcz high temp antisieze stand exhaust heat and use on any fastener and plus antisieze prevent rust
** Pro tip* Every mechanic has torx bits. if you grind the tip flat and drill the home just under it works as a flute extractor. If you have a kit with the torx bits in it works down to a small size.
Living in Wi for ten years torx bits has saved my briskets more than once.
Excellent thank's for sharing! snap on is the way to go! I purchased a jump starter from sears 140 dollars complete junk would not even tickle a battery! returned it and got me a snap on jumper WOWWWW!!!!! had it for 5 years now man it will jump start a 18 wheeler no prob!!!!
really good tips! think I've used just about everyone of them. It's a bit of an art form. Nothing works like the torch!
Honda motorcycles used JIS screws from the 50's to the early 80's. Left hand drill bit is the perfect tool to remove these screws when the heads are galled. Select a bit ~ 10% smaller than the screw, drill into the cross head and be prepared - they will spin the screw out just before the bit starts to go through the head. My thought is that the tension on the head is relieved, allowing the thread to walk out.
The mig welder is the best broken off bolt extractor,weld a nut on the broken off bolt or stud.Most of the time drilling and easy outs don't work.Plus you can drill in too far doing damage.That Mac easy out set you shown is a rebranded Irwin set,Irwin makes it for them including Matco and Snap On
Yeah I put the Irwin ones in my A Store. Look in the description box :)
not when you are doing a gas tank job-fuel fumes
Transfer punches work good for getting a punch mark in the center of a bolt that's broken off in a hole. Gives you a better chance of drilling in the center. I have used an end mill in a drill to make a flat surface on the broken bolt too.
those square ones are the best for brass air line fittings. love the straight fluted . im like you i think the tapers expand compounding the problems. ever had a bolt ya just couldnt get out???
I have never broke one then not gotten it out but I have had some that I have had to just drill all the way
Eric - I noticed in your A-Store that DrillHog's 29 Pc Cobalt bits were $294. Amazon's price is a bit way over the top. It's nothing at all with your store - it's all on Amazon. The old adage rings true yet again... Measure twice, cut once.
E-Bay has a couple listings for the 29Pc set. One is under a $100 (round container) or the same 29 Pc set (regular bit container) with 3 Step Bit Drills for $130. Both are with Free Shipping and both offer the buyer an option to "Make An Offer".
Drill hog also will repair or replace any bit that needs sharpening or is broken. Keep the business card you will get for each item bought in a safe place - it has with your warranty number tag on the back of the card. Would suggest that it's a good idea to write on the tag what each was for. Such as 29Pc Cobalt bit set or 15 Pc Left Handed bit set or whatever you buy. Makes it easy peasy to know which number Mike needs to warranty your tools for free.
Mike (owner) at DrillHog is a great guy and will work with everyone to make sure they are getting what they really need and of course what they want. Best way to contact him is through E-Bay's messaging via one of his "DrillHog" listings.
I'd love to see a compilation video of you using these broken bolt extractors in real life situations.
the fluted kind are my favorite and i never see them any where for sale. but haven't looked in 20 years. i'll try amazon. the benefit to those is you grip the entire stud if you drill it all the way, where as the tapered not only expand like you said, they also are only gripping maybe an 1/8th of an inch and i always snap em off. i have a husky set like your mac set. got it from home depot and its for removing broken off threaded water/gas pipe. make sense rigid would make it since thats there history.
Bit late for me but great advice! Last month I did a bone headed thing and broke not one but 2 oil pan bolts (though to be fair, I think whoever put it there had already broken them and I just pushed it over the edge) and later an EGR valve on the exhaust part. I used a reverse drill bit and it was easy on the EGR valve because it was stuck on the valve itself. The oil pan kicked my butt though but I was able to get one out without taking off the pan...I'll live with one missing screw and there are no leaks... The hole punch is key though because getting it started is the hard part. Also, most non-mechanic drills these days have a keyless chuck and reversing can loosen it easily.
while tools are indeed important. I find that removal is more of an artform/skill rather than just using a tool to do the job. 15 years ago a broken bolt ended my day. now days I just add 5-30 minutes to solve it
Yep just part of the routine now
South Main Auto Repair yo eric how did that astro nano 1828 impact turn out, the one you bought a few years back
Buy it once!!! Been my motto through my adult life.
You keep costing me money, mr O. 😁
I already have a ridgid set identical to your blue point(which is excellent). Now i think i need that snap on set to complement it.
I have that exact set of Snap On Blue Point extractors.
Just don't ever break one off , then you're screwed.
I use the cheapo Harbor Freight torx bits in rounded out allen head screws and bolts.
After about the 3rd time you just throw them away so I stock many of each size on those and they are cheap enough.
I actually feel better for seeing this Eric... I use the torx trick for getting stuff out. I've had a lot of success with it. Then i go for something else if that fails. Nice to see a pro using the same trick and its not just me being a cowboy. hahaha
we are all cowboys when it comes to getting the job done :)
Thanks for the explanation on the left handed drill bits. I never have been able to understand what the big deal was with them.
Over and over during my life I have ended up drilling broken bolts out close to the original threads, then collapsing the remains inward with a little half moon faced punch a machinist introduced me to. Sometimes once you get them started imploding they simply fall out, and sometimes if you can get a tap started in the original threads it will simply peel the remains out of there as slick as can be.
I have a much greater understanding of the computer driven electronics in modern vehicles from watching you. I can see the benefit of these systems but the cost of diagnostic equipment for a do it yourselfer like me makes me shudder. One thing I have learned watching you is one still has to have the mind of a troubleshooter. Even with the diagnostic equipment the ability to use logic to narrow the problem down to the actual end is critical.
Funny how stuntman be givin eric the shit 😂. Love both channels. Salute from upstate ny
Machinist here I have a little set that you would love it is a left hand center drill essentially. You switch the drill to reverse and then drill into it for the other bolt extractor
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113741839310
can you do a toolbox tour?
This one is a good illustration of the difference between tools owned by a pro vs tools sold at the hardware store. Brittle 'easy outs' that snap off at critical times can make the day so much longer, especially if you don't have a welder or oxyacetylene or short bits or right angle drills. How to cope with problems when things don't go well is all the difference.
Well I just like to show what I think works the best.
Good tip with the torx bits. When a broken bolt has to come out use what you have right?
Good video.
You should have a center drill in your toolbox. They don’t walk like the regular drill as they are stubby with a thick shank. They are also cheap. In aviation I used a 3/8” socket to rivet gun, air hammer, adapter. It also has flats for a 5/8” wrench. The hammering drives the Phillips or torx bit into the screw head and vibrates it. The wrench applies rotational force. Screws don’t stand a chance.
Great video Eric. Never thought about using a torx bit but have had to modify a t55 and use an 8mm wrench on it to get at a pulley with no access.
for me, once i break the head off, lots of tension has released the bolt, and i often use female extractors that work fairly well when there is something to grab hold of
Good stuff Eric, now I have to go by some more tools.
Dood--The Blue Point 1020 extractor kit is re-branded, actually made by Ridgid; all the truck brands sell a version of it. I have the Ridgid set, known as Screw Extractors Set No.10, available on Amazon and through industrial suppliers (Grainger, MSC, McMaster-Carr, etc.). It was around $100.00 on Amazon; probably close to twice that off the truck. I see you have six turnuts, but it looks like you have one duplicate in there. Great set. The 25-piece MAC set of shorty extractors is also re-branded; that's a Hanson (now Irwin) 53227 Hex Extractor Set. Same information on it regarding availability. Pricing on it is about $50+ on Amazon, and it now comes in a smaller blue box that has three rows of extractors instead of two. Instead of messing up your Torx sockets, you can use a cheap set of Lisle 62900 Super Out Bolt and Screw Extractors. There are five extractors in the set; each is 1-1/2" long, they are straight, have eight splines and are very similar to a Torx bit. They can be turned with a hex socket and a ratchet, and run about $12.00; they too are available on Amazon. All this information, plus $2.50, will get you a cup of coffee in any diner in town.
Yep can't beat snappys warranty, soon offsets the price! Like you I purchased the ductor way back, still working well!
I’ve found left handed drill bits can also be handy because even if they don’t extract it (and you have to use an easy out for example) at least you are drilling in the reverse direction, so I guess at least you’re not tightening the broken bolt......also door hinge drill bits can help you get your hole exactly centre (and you can use left handed drill bits with them as well as you can change the drill bit in them)
Great information, thank you, i watched because I was having limited success with the spiral fluted as well, hate screw extractors on any bolt less than 3/8 or 8mm in diameter. So time to seek a more reliable replacement version.
You should do a video on all your different scantools
Snap-on Verus,Autel Maxysis,OTC Encore the old Vantage and the Picoscope recently.Hi might have more scantools but this is what I notice.
Why would anybody need these extractors - possibly rusty bolts? I wouldn't know, nothing ever gets rusty out here (Phoenix, Arizona). Eric, I helped a friend remove an engine from a Nissan truck, think it was a 2006 model, this past Saturday and one of my jobs was to remove the exhaust manifolds so that the engine could be removed more easily. I used a 1/4" ratchet and I think a 12mm (or maybe it was 14mm) socket. They came right out without a fight. Love living in the desert.
Hahah I would make a killin there on flat rate
South Main Auto Repair Seriously though, it's a travesty Mitchell etc. don't have a "salt belt" version of the flat rate book. I remember thinking Indy shops in NM charged about the same labor rate as NY shops and had lower taxes and no rust!
Had to use one the other day cause a diyer rounded a bolt that held onto the caliper guide pin.
you are blessed to be in the dessert and in america- i am in canada not to far from were eric o is in up state new york--the weather up here is harsh and that is a under statement--12 mm nuts and bolts become 11mm from the rust and salt-make america great again love your prez.
YEAH EXCEPT FOR THE HEAT.
I have that BluePoint set, I love it... you can work it backwards also..
Wow ...Great video , thanks for sharing . Always wonde what type of extractors work best for different applications .
it's nice to see how a real pro does it.. thanks for the video
Thanks for the tips. I haven't had much luck with the tapered extractors either. I didn't know there was straight fluted ones. I will have to see if I can find some.
Gary's Garage
they are made by Rigid tools ( pipe wrench) Home depot should have these cheaper than Snap-on. bought mine from Snap-on because of the convince. great set
Thanks Sam, I just bought a set from Amazon. Got them a couple of days ago but haven't used them yet.
Now that's an amazing point at 7:32!!! thanks for the tip!!!
use what ya have :)
Nice selection of extractors. At 4:20, the straight flute extractor (including torx bits) may put more outward pressure on the fastener than the tapered extractor because you are hammering it in across a larger surface area. I tend to go with the largest extractor I can use so I do not break it off inside the fastener. I cannot use my torx bits as extractors because they are made from brittle Chinese steel (tekton 1354). I have already broken one bit in this set removing a timing chain tensioner - a task it was designed to accomplish. My suggestion is buy the best extractors you can so they do not break when using them. This is not a tool set to go cheap on.
All good advice :) China strikes again haha
Never heard of using a Torx untill now. I'll have to try it soon. I'm in IL so it won't be long.
I've had those reverse drill bits pull out broken bolts many times. The reverse drilling and the vibration is sometimes all it takes.
Ya done the torx bit too before also drove a chisel down in a brass fitting on frieghtliner brake chamber before
Great video Eric. I like the Mac drill bits to , seem to hold up really good !
I go to Tacoma screws and get the right type of metal and design bits. That makes something that literally can take several hours and drill nowhere to less than a few minutes of drilling. Use the right bits for the right job.
The set with one missing, short reverse spiral flute you think is Mac; I have the same thing but Snap On. Trying to remove exhaust flange bolt on 98 F-150 5.4L. I found they just shave out the drill hole and don't even bite in. I'm afraid to use a long extractor, that it will break. I also cant use the handle for the different sizes of square ends to turn, there's no room. I guess I'll have to drill it out and use a bolt and nut. If you even get to read this, most important is thanking you for all you have done to enable me to be able to drive rather than walk. On SS only. If I don't fix it, I'm walking. ($ drives, no $ walks.)
In a pinch you can grind a very slight taper on the end of the short leg of a hex wrench. Tap that into your drilled hole and wrench the fastener loose.
for really tight places use a "spotting length drill" or a "center drill", both are very short, inch or two for the center drills. They're very rigid and won't wander as bad, plus they make the perfect starter hole for a drill bit. Both are on Amazon
CO Jones put a link, I'll throw them in the A store.
Center drills are mostly for starting a hole for a regular drill bit, but since they are so short they don't wander and less likely to break. You can't do deep holes with them, just up to the end of the bevel.
Spotting drills are sort of like center drills but can do deeper holes, pretty good for getting to bolts right next to the frame or firewall.
There I added them here : astore.amazon.com/httpswwwy0837-20?node=14&page=2
Thanks for the input and suggestion.
--Eric O.
i3.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/000/783/976/4be.gif
Eric what up, I also feel your pain with the rust I have a shop down here in Cape Cod MASS. I have a entire draw in my box only for extractors and drills ect. I think of rust as money at this point in doing this.
Great job. When you get some time, look at EDM broken tap remover. Probably not to good in cars but nice to watch.
I just snapped off a small bolt in my 7hp Tecumseh motor that holds my electric starter on. I'm going to try a torx on that. Thanks for the info. Kevin
Great videos southern man. Have you ever seen the A-SURE OUT extractor? It can be removed in seconds if it breaks, no EDM or DRILLING. After seeing it, only a fool would use anything else! All materials and labor made in the USA! For over 100 years the bolt extractor has changed in many ways, however the failure of a bolt extractor seems to have been carelessly overlooked leaving all users the possibility of catastrophic failure. Help support an American company. Thank you.
Its not the amount of tools you have that gets the job done,its the one right tool the first time that does. As you know,I have watched guys waste more time using the wrong tool and get frustrated and upset where had they had the proper tool in the first place they would have had gotten the job done in half the time. Some guys will say that they work with what they have. My opinion is if you have the proper tools you can get the job done faster and move on to the next one. In your business,time is money and any tool that can save you time belongs in your tool box. No I am not a sales person but its a fact and being I have been there done that,I have always made sure the few tools I do own are the best tools and they end up saving me money on two fronts. One expencive tool that works is better than a whole tool box full of cheap junk tools that dont work well.
You are the real deal blessing to you
2:37 out of all the bolt extractors I've used, this one is the only one I've used that ever worked. Concept being one can use the collar to center the drill over the crown of the busted bolt/stud. You don't have that, forget it.
i consider SMA to be an absolute pro, so I'm not questioning him. Just relating my experience
Trick for pipe threaded plugs in differentials or transmissions, or any other pipe ( tapered type ) thread.
Tighten "slightly" first, just till it moves, then, wind out easy peasy.
wouldn't you know, I get to work and had to deal with a couple sheared bolts! Perfect timing.
Boom!
Great video Eric.
Oh how to you love this crazy weather we are having ? I live about 1.5 hours from you and it was 81 today and was 39 at night
Excellent video brother! Very informative! Subscribed!
I was attempting to do a brake rotor replacement on my Hondoo 😊Ridgeline
following your wise tutorial on another video when the tip of this GearWrench
impact driver I was using for the first time broke off in the head of the
rotor retaining screw. How would you recommend removing that retaining screw
now?