Installing Kadee Electro Magnetic Uncoupler
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- Опубликовано: 23 фев 2023
- Installing the Kadee solenoid uncoupler #309 might be easier than you think. Here's how I did it at Chadwick Model Railway 182.
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Хобби
Question for Charlie's amazing audience - I am visiting London for the first time and am hoping that I could perhaps visit a good model train store. Any suggestions? They all seem to be in the suburbs and my limited visit will only be in the city center for the most part. Thank you in advance!
Finally, another great video! I wish I had known about this before I laid all the track in my first layout I am working on now.
I have “pinned” your comment and hopefully someone can give you some guidance. Regards Charlie
Sorry no decent model railway shop in Central London. Hamleys very basic. Jane's trains 2nd hand only and in the south of London. Don't think there's a Hornby outlet store anymore.
@@rollergrill thank you, that assessment is what my internet searches seemed to indicate. Well I intend to find Styrodur somewhere, it is not available in US
Hi - I live in London and am afraid you will be disappointed at the lack of model railway stores. The best ones are outside of the capital I’m afraid. Good news though, you can retro fit these from below the baseboard. I did this on my exhibition layout a few years ago. You need a good depth limiter on your drill bit though! I fitted thirteen, drilling from below in no time at all. PM me if you want some photos.
@@antonyjerome7478 thank you for the info!
I love the fact you included health and safety in your more than tab
Always here to help, mate. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway many thanks
Much more complicated than my glue spreader decoupling method and much cooler. Fascinating stuff.
Thanks Jay, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway my pleasure. I’m new to the hobby and watching your channel has really helped motivate me and the tips are great. All the best.
Thanks Charlie. Most useful. Only wish i discovered your channel early may have said me money and mistakes. But hay ho better late than never.
Sadly, Kriso, we’ve all done it, mate. Regards, Charlie.
Just taking a break from wiring my little"Shardlow" layout, so I pop in to see what's happening on "Chadwick" this week. Oh no, more wiring!
But watching Charlie at work is quite therapeutic, so I sat through the entire video even though (being a masochist) I use three link couplings, it's not something I'd ever need to do.
Anyway, back to my wiring... Interesting stuff as ever, Charlie.
Thanks Peter, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards, Charlie
Fascinating, man. Best explanation I've seen!
Glad you think so! Regards Charlie
Brilliant video Charlie
Thanks Mels, that’s very kind. Regards Charlie
Great video as usual Charlie, Thank you Keep them coming 👍👍👍
Thanks Ron, so pleased you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie
Very interesting video Charlie. Thanks for sharing. Roy.
You’re most welcome Roy. Take care, regards, Charlie
As always, a very informative, helpful and entertaining video. Thank you. Greetings from Sweden 🇸🇪.
Thanks Anders, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie
Hi, Charlie, Another great informative video. I look forward to the next informative video.
Thanks Mark, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, great stuff again. Cheers
Glad you enjoyed it Mark. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, once again a very interesting and informative video. I found it very helpful as I wondering about Kadee uncouplers. Thanks again Charlie, great video 👍👍
Regards
Tony
Thanks Tony, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards, Charlie
Fascinating and very informative video enjoyed watching it, Charlie 👍
Thanks Jeff, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Awesome Video Charlie
Thanks C2000, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway your welcome i had that same problem you mentioned with the permant magnets where the train shutters and it uncouples .on my model Red rattler electric train but as i keep it as a permant 4 car set i have cut off the unlocking pins from the kadee couplings .
Here's a thought: before deciding the exact location for your solenoid, fit the permanent magnet types, and when you're happy that's the right location, fit the solenoid. Otherwise, move the magnet until it's in exactly the right location for your layout. A bit pesky trying to do it without lifting the track, but...
And, by silver foil, do you mean baking foil / aluminium foil? Silver would be expensive, gold leaf might be better... ;-)
You make an interesting point, perhaps it was aluminium foil.🤪
Thanks a great instructional video!
I’m so pleased that you found it. Interesting Bill. Regards, Charlie
Nice to see you again, Charlie.
It’s great to have you onboard, Paul. Regards, Charlie
Another interesting video Charlie!!! Thanks for sharing!! Cheers Onno.
Glad you enjoyed it Onno. Regards Charlie
Nice job Charlie!
Thanks Kurt, regards, Charlie
thanks so much for the great video. those wago connectors really are somthing
Yes they are!
How is that they have passed us by?
Regards Charlie
Hey Charlie, great video! I really have to hand it to you …you have encouraged such a well educated and dedicated following on your channel who are ready and willing to critique and make suggestions. It really is a community of modellers helping modellers. Well done and big shout out to all your viewers and subscribers!
That’s an extremely kind thing to say mate. Regards, Charlie
Thanks Charlie, Vary informative as always a good video.
It is a bit deep for my pocket, and trying to do a small layout but it is a nice looking system
Thanks 0M, I’m so pleased that you found it. Interesting mate. Regards, Charlie
Very good, again.
Thanks Alan, you’re too kind.
Regards, Charlie
Dear Charlie, love how you’ve shown this Kadee Solenoid installation. Saw Larry’s version shortly after he posted it. Definitely will check out this system for the shunting sidings on my layout. Always cool to see you just flip over the board to install the electronics. Have a great weekend. Looking forward to your next episodes. Cheerio
That’s very kind of you to say so Vincent. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, another great informative video. Just what I was thinking about doing as my uncoupling dexterity with a sharp stick is not that brilliant! 🤣
Thanks Mike, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
If only I knew how many increments of a fathom thick your cork was! ;-) Wait til you hear them talking about five quarter and eight quarter lumber and X penny nails! Nice clear explanation Charlie. Cheers
Imperial and metric measurements are such a joy Davies. Stay safe, regards, Charlie
I found this really helpful as I'm using kadee couplers on my Hornby coaches. Thinking about it. I probably will install a couple of these in my layout
Just remember Stephen, to always install them on the straight pieces of track. Regards, Charlie
Button idea: you could connect button's backlight to relay output, so button will indicate when coil is energized.
But when it’s energised, you don’t look at the buttons. You’re looking at your wagons. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailwayThis is true, however it could be useful for fault detection in the solenoid. For example if it was to become stuck on or not want to turn on, it could act as a visual indicator as to the status of the solenoid. Just some food for thought! 😊 Regards, Shaun
never underestimate the power of a sexy LED . Great video as always fella :D
Thanks Jon, I’m so pleased that you found it. Interesting mate. Regards, Charlie
Great video, followed a lot of your How Tia and helped me decide on stuff to buy as I get back into the hobby, I opted for Kadees after watching your series on couplers and I often thought about on/off electromagnets as an option for uncoupling method but all seemed abit complicated… nice to see there is already a better easier system already out and relatively easy to install
Thanks Luke, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
I just about followed that vlog Charlie 👍
Fair play Martin, you’re a good man.
Regards Charlie
Thanks!
Thanks Andrew, that’s most kind.
Regards Charlie.
Nice video Charlie!
Thanks MF, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie
Many thanks for sharing Charlie. This has to be one of the best step by step guides that I have seen on this. A very good point about taking the watch off, magnetic fields (that sounds like a title for a Jean-Michel Jarre album) can cause havoc for mechanical watches. This can also be the case where they are near to other magnetic fields including loco's, point motors and speakers. It might be an idea to use a cheap digital watch when working on or using the layout. Of course you could just use a wall clock. Thanks again Charlie.
Thanks Anthony, as you say, you can’t be too careful. Regards, Charlie
Excellent video as usual Mr Charlie. Thank you.👍🇬🇧🇮🇱🇬🇧
Thanks Adam, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie thank you for another informative video. It was through a previous one on Kaydee's that I was able to solve a problem of leaning over my small layout and catching and snapping bits of my scenery, especially chimneys, to uncouple other froms of coupling I was using. It was such a pain and that video was a " light bulb moment". My layout is, I feel, too small for solenoids . So I tend to motor fairly sharpish going back out over the fixed magnets dotted around my layout to ensure no unwanted uncoupling, so all good. Your solenoids look brilliant on your large layout. Well done and thanks again.!
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Good luck with your layout, regards, Charlie
Well Charlie, my brain is in a scramble now!!! A very interesting subject for those in the process of establishing their layout. With all the aids that are at hand nowadays, I wished that I could begin all over again. Sadly the years won't allow me that, but you really do keep the interest afloat. There are always little snippets that prove so useful.
Thanks Kevin, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie
This was a great episode I found the countdown timers excellent I ordered 4 and will use them to operate level crossing with a momentary switch then have the boards count Down then normalize the crossing
A great idea Paul. In time, I will need an automatic level crossing too! Regards, Charlie
What a great video very informative and helpful good idea and as for the man looking for a train shop in London the best one is Jane's trains in tooting a short walk from tooting station there are none in central London itself hope this helps 👍
Thanks Clive, most helpful.
Regards Charlie
Smooth and unlike others no bloody TT 120 - thank you !
Thankfully that’s true, Michael!
Regards, Charlie
Excellent idea Charlie.
You always come up with those " why didn't I think of that " ideas.
I think I will eventually use magnetic couplings with KDs at each end. But in the meantime that idea will get me through.
My Bachmann coaches also have couplings at a
Different height to other stock . A real pain.
I had to compromise and use small Tension Locks to couple between them and my Hornby Castle. They seem to be more tolerant of small height differences.
I agree, Howard, couplings are a curse to UK models. Regards, Charlie
Charlie, what a great educational video.
You must be mind reading, I have been thinking about what to do in my little goods yard, and you are right the magnets that sit on the track are ugly, and working all the time.
The #309 looks like a great solution, and you have just de-mystified it for me. It looks like a great piece of kit. Thank you for sharing this.
Chers, and stay safe, Michael
What a heartwarming comment Michael, you’re too kind mate. I’m so pleased that it was suitable for your layout. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, another great video. I have used the same magnets and timer relays on my Ho exhibition layout (you came behind it at Ally Pally last year to chat with David). It is quite easy to wire the LED in the push button to show when the coil is energised - just simply take a feed off of the NO output on the relay (which runs to the coil), through a resistor and then run it to the LED contact on the push button.
I’ve also installed Arduinos to act as a DCC accessory decoder to energise the coils (for when we operate the layout from the front). These are great and cheap.
If I were to do it all again… I would not use the Chinese timer relays at £5 each. I would simply buy an Arduino for £11, an Arduino relay block for a few quid and wire up the push buttons to the Arduino (rather than the timer relays) and run all of the solenoids/coils off of the Arduino. I have thirteen uncouplers on the layout so it would have saved a good few pounds that could go towards my gas bill!
Great comment, Antony, and I hopefully I’ll see your layout at a future exhibition. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway And if you use a two colour led switch you could have it change over from green to red,say, by powering from the nc and no contacts, appropriately!
Great video as always Charlie. I've got some locos wagon and coaches fitted with Kadee's with thelrge magnets fitted under the track. I am looking to relay the track as certain critical aspects don't work as intended. This system is a great idea I hadn't considered (too hard basket!). Thanks for the review. It seems easier and more cost effective than I thought and I'll look into it for the new layout version 3.2.
Hope your lunch was good 😁 and I look forward to the next video.
Thanks Pete, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards Charlie
Another great video Charlie Thankyou. There is a critical modification you can make to the circuit that no one seems to mention. To prevent arcing across the switch contacts when they are released, solder a diode across the solenoid, just as you would a relay solenoid. This would also protect any connected delicate components.
Now there is something that I certainly hadn’t thought of.
Thanks Peter, regards Charlie
Good stuff! About a year ago I purchased 5 of these for a level of the layout that is yet to be built. I got some similar relays too at the same time, because of the chip shortage. Maybe that will be cleared up by the time I get to install them, but you never know (and like you say, it's a small amount to invest now). Thanks for providing a better instruction video than Kadee could! My Patreon investment continues to pay off big time!
Thanks Chris, that’s an exceptionally nice thing to say. Now of course, you need to get on and install them!
Regards Charlie
good vid thanks lee
Thanks Lee, that’s most kind mate. Regards, Charlie
I love the fact that one of the hidden skills of modelling is understanding the 'why' things exist. In this example, the positioning of the tanks and the track, and why that is important. I think it leads to better understanding of why things happen in the world (not just train related!).
Thanks Ross, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie,if I use kadee couplers I will be sure to remember this video
Thanks Lewis, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate.
Regards, Charlie
Hey Charlie. Your circuitry on that board is enormous wow! For small holes to drill & saw a bit of big job. Well worth it. I am not ready for that yet but it's a future lesson in model train electronics. The freights look nice I like the Mobil Oil cars. For some reason oil companies no longer put their names or logos on tanker trains in North America & Canada anymore. Nice to see them elsewhere. May take out my version of tanker cars with these classic logos. Excellent job admire your work on the layout for all of us to view. Happy Railroading Charlie.
Harold
CN Railroad etc
Hi Harold, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting mate. We do have a lovely little tankers. Regards, Charlie
Great video - As I had already laid and ballasted my track I just used two rows of 10mm x 3mm Neodymium Magnets that you can drill and place between the sleepers, works quite well and is much cheaper...
At least you have found a good workable solution, Andrew. Regards, Charlie
Another great video, Charlie!
Nice to hear you reference Larry Puckett - the DCC Guy. I would pay good money to watch the two of you collaborate on a video!
I recently had a holiday in the US, and while there picked up an HO (pre-owned) F7 and (new) SD40-2, which run nicely and look great on my otherwise OO 'licence-to-run-anything' heritage railway, with the bonus of giving me a forced introduction to Kadee couplings. They do look a lot better than NEM or the big old Hornby couplings! The idea of remotely operating these is quite exciting.
Thanks Ron, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Great instructions and got us so far, our use case was to fire the relay using our DCC Unit (ECOS Command Station), we thought it would be a simple case of wiring up the switch side of the relay to a ECOS Switch Pilot plus, so we could use a dcc address to fire it. However just simply connecting to the relay to the switch pilot didn't work, we worked out that if we soldered a resistor on to the relay switch output, then connect to the switch pilot plus, we were then able to fire the uncoupler using the Command station and dcc address. Which means we can also now trigger using TrainController. Keep up the good work.
I’m so pleased that the video was useful Ian. Regards Charlie
Another fabulous video Charlie. I fully share your frustration with technical authoring not being proof read. For virtually zero cost they could include paper templates for mounting holes etc. Nonetheless, a very good product for Kadee users.
Thanks Roger, I’m so pleased that you found it. Interesting, and appreciate the criticism of technical authors. Regards, Charlie
Great stuff, thank you. I have one of those uncouplers but haven’t got around to adding to my layout module yet, so really useful seeing you do it. A couple of thoughts, by switching the Common on the relay board to power feed you could use the NC via resistors to power the LED on the actuator button. That way it would go out while the solenoid was active. Also, using an Arduino with a solenoid board you can control multiple uncouplers and even automate them (I’ll confess not something I’ve done but entirely doable I think).Steve
Many thanks Steve, your suggestion to power the LED from the common, is entirely sensible and well worth a look while the board is still on its back. Regards Charlie.
And when I said ‘solenoid board’ I meant a relay board controlled by an Arduino, apologies.
A few have mentioned the diode across the coil to prevent damage to the relay contacts when they open. This is also highly recommended to avoid electric shock. When the contacts open, the magnetic field of the coil collapses and this generates a high voltage (generally a few hundred volts) and this will give you a big surprise if you are handling the control board at the time.
You make a very interesting point, SH, I shall certainly look into it. Regards, Charlie
Excellent demonstration Charlie. And for making model railroading appear sexy. Lol Another great video.
Thanks Bob, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I just became a Patreon member. I’m happy to support your channel.
This is still over my pay grade, but you do make it clearer than some.
I’m so pleased that you found it. Interesting mate. Regards, Charlie
You could easily wire up the LED switch so when the relay is active, it also lights the switch. That would be an indicator that the solenoid is functioning. Personally, I like to use Arduinos for such operations. One Arduino could handle all of your decouplers and you can program it to do much more than simple on/off. Variable timings, automation, the sky is the limit. Of course, that adds a degree of complexity.
I enjoy watching these types of videos. Not because I need to learn something, but because of the time and effort video creators such as yourself spend to help others. And that's a really good thing. Great channel, great video. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Roy. I am currently taking advice on Arduinos, we’ll see how I get on. Regards Charlie
I suspect others have pointed this out - but what you can do is power the LED on the push button parallel to the output of the timed relay , that way the push button is illuminated during the time the solenoid is powered - so you have an “active” indicator on the buttons.
Better to connect the LED to the NC side of the relay,, then it's off when the solenoid is active, and on so you can find it when you need to press it! Of course, you'd need the power to be on the common connector then.
Edit: Damn, beaten to it by Steve Jubb!
Actually, Steve, that doesn’t work! I shall have to investigate. Regards, Charlie.
Better to have it illuminated prior to the push. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Did you swap the NO and Common connections?
No, but I shall. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, thank you for a really interesting and very useful video. The issue I'm going to have using these sadly is to lift up some of the track to fit them underneath. Rails of Sheffield sell an alternative product which you can fit with the track in place but they haven't had them in stock for about 2+ years. It would be helpful if you could try installing a Kadee coupling on a Bachmann Mk1 coach as I need to convert all of mine and the height is wrong. I look forward to seeing your next video.
Thanks, Simon, and I shall certainly check out my Bachmann Mk 1s and see if the issue is repeated on them. Regards, Charlie
Splendid stuff as always Charlie.
Given that the boards have a green LED indicator on them already a person could just introduce the end of a bit of fiberoptic line to that LED. Then trace the other end around to some convenient location like the fascia perhaps. That would want a ferrule of some sort.
Alternately a person might just introduce an LED on the energized leg and wire it to some feature on the layout like a shack or abandoned gooseneck light that would illuminate while the "decouple" was "on."
A person disinclined to muck about in the switch circuitry could just lay a Normally Closed magnetic reed switch near the solenoid and use that to animate some feature on the surface o the layout. A light would be an obvious choice but a door to a shack or shed could be animated as well.
It’s interesting that you made that suggestion, Captain Mac. I had thought about putting in a little shed, with one light on either end to be turned on when the appropriate solenoid is activated. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, excellent video yet again.
Just out of interest I’ve used the switches with LED’s inside them, as you said they do look good. You mentioned have it flashing so you know something happening. I thought the same. I couldn’t do the flashing so I powered the LED from the same wires that feed the solenoid so the LED is only on when the solenoid is on.
Remember you may need to put a resistor in series with a feed depending on what the LED voltage and current is, that’s if it’s not already fitted inside the switch.
Regards John
Thanks John, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie. I echo many replies in that you are switching an inductive coil (solenoid) and when the power is disconected by the relay, a huge energy is produced when the coil 'collapses' called 'Back EMF'. This is 100s of volts for a short duration. It causes relay contacts to weld together!. The fix is to add a diode such as the very common 1N4007 in reverse polarity to the solenoid i.e. the 'bar' end of the diode connects to the positive feed on the solenoid (Fit the diode at the solenoid wires). Without it, that relay won't last long!!. As others have said, you can use the feed wires to the solenoid to power an LED and don't forget the required series resistor! 16k resistor for a 1mA LED, 1.6 k for a 10mA LED etc.
Andy, I’m most grateful for your advice.
Rest assured that I’m on the case.
Regards Charlie
Great video on electrical switches and relays.
You might actually be able to use the 'NO' terminal on that timer to drive the LED on the switch. That way the light goes out when the timer is running. Or the other way around so the LED lights up when the solenoid is active but then it makes the button harder to find in the dark.
Depending on voltages it might require another relay though.
I had thought about it, but who looks at the switch when you’re doing the uncoupling?. Regards, Charlie
Instead of wiring the +12v for the light in the switch from the 12v input to the circuit board, if you wired it into the switched output that goes to the solenoid via a suitably sized resistor, your button would light up when you pushed it, and go out when the timer as run out. Or, if you still wanted the button illuminated all the time, only going out when you push it, just wire it to the n/c terminal instead. Just a thought!
You make an excellent point Steve, and I think that it should go out when energised. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway You'd have to put the power in on the common terminal, of course.
on your switch you could wire the LED to the N/C of the relay. being an automotive type switch they can generally handle up to 18v just fine.
then when you press the button, the light turns off for the entire time the solenoid is active
I shall try it RR. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie if you Connect the LED input on the swirch 1/3-2/4 to the relays NC and the common as input from the powersuplay and out to the magnetic on the NO output then the green light will be lit until you push the button and then the green light will be turned of until the relay switch back again.
Now that sounds an ideal solution. Thanks Richard, regards, Charlie
Great video very instructive and well presented my only comment would be I am supprised at the size of the solonoid it's massive It does not matter on your layout because you use tortoise point motors so have a deep area free under your baseboard but if space is limited it would be a problem.
Yes, that’s a fair point Arthur. Regards, Charlie
Well done Charlie. For once you didn’t lose me with electrical engineering stuff that I don’t normally understand 😅
Your understanding is clearly improving mate. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway 😂😂😂😂
Super complicated Charlie. Thank goodness I use DG Couplings. Simple under board magnet. Worked impeccably for me for years at exhibitions. Mine is just a small hole through the board, insert a cylindrical tubular electromagnet and then ballasted over. I however do like the idea of the timer, but an expensive project when my layout consists of 27 points/switches. 27 boards at, as you say, about £6 each eats into my pension too much!! Great video as always though Charlie. Everything beautifully filmed and explained. Cheers, Bob
Thanks Bob, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
great video, id of de soldered the LED on the board and used its power for the LED in the switch itll give you an indication of when the unit is powered or not the same way the board LED works
Thanks mate, what a good idea. Regards Charlie
I use a capacitor discharge unit for my points, it would give the solenoid a burst rather than a long period of current, so the train would have to be exactly over the decoupling point, but you don’t require a large power supply and it’s safe in regards to burning out the solenoid.
Now that’s an interesting point. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, apparently we share a quirk, we both like to read instructions 😊 Great video, thanks. However,... my preference is building small industrial (shunting) layouts, so my shunting crew is only 3 or 4 persons big, uncoupling done manual.
I think your heart is in the right place, Rob. Regards, Charlie
Charlie, There are a few ways to indicate the activation of the solenoid. If you want to have the "normal intensity" light be on all the time you can take the button LED voltage feed from the normally closed (NC) relay port and connect a diode and a suitable resistor from NO to NC port. Then, when the solenoid is activated the button will be dimly lit. Of course, if there is no need to have the button lit when active, the diode/resistor scheme is not needed.
I think you’re right HL, why would you need to look at the button when you’re too busy uncoupling. Regards, Charlie
for the push button, you could use that single pole relay to drive another relay (or even de-solder that and just use the driver circuit). then make that other relay double pole - use one half to switch the solenoid, and use the other half to drive the button LED - it will then light up when the solenoid is energised and go out when it isn't
A good point Dale, however, you could work the other way around, so that it goes out when the solenoid is energised. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailwaywas thinking thinking same - use the NC pole to control the LED, with a suitable resistor in series, off the same 16 Volts supply.
Two options for making the light in the switch light when the coil is active, first you could wire the light to the LED on the switching board or second you could add the light in the switch to the coil circuit (parallel to the coil) so its on when the coil is active.
I had thought of wiring, so the light is out whilst the solenoid is energised. Regards, Charlie
If you keep your watch away from the solenoid Charlie I would warn anybody with a pacemeker if they are close to the edge of the board! Another very useful session on uncoupling I could be tempted to change to KD from Tension lock as they look and behave much better.
Wow, an interesting comment Paul. That’s most helpful. I’ll recheck those instructions for a similar warning.
How’s your understanding of Flagmen in TC?
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway i have not needed to use them as i tend to achieve actions another way. They are like event driven variables that you can use to trigger other events. If we have a chat sometime about what you need them for i may be able to help
what you could do is wire the LED for the button in parallel with the solenoid, then it will light the button when the solenoid is on. Or wire button LED with the NC and C side of the relay, then the LED will go out when the solenoid is On
I think you’re right, going out when activated is a better option. Regards, Charlie
That’s an interesting video Charlie. I’ve been wondering about the best way to go with couplings, particularly with uncoupling in mind as I’ll (eventually) have a terminal station where locomotives need to couple and uncouple. I do like magnetic couplings so will use these in between rakes, but locomotives and coaches at the ends of rakes will use Kadee couplings. The uncoupler you’ve demonstrated is the answer to my station (and also some sidings) means of uncoupling. Though, rather than those relay boards that you’ve used, I’ll use a DCC relay so that the uncoupling can be performed through iTrain.
A great answer to our ongoing coupling issues. Good luck with your solution.
Regards Charlie
You can buy car type blade fuses and circuit breakers (Thermal trips) with different types of fuse holders if your ever concerned with power supply overload or short circuit. They can be found in a few places. Circuit like this I would be tempted to add a fuse to the PSU output protect from short circuit.
An interesting thought John, many thanks. Regards Charlie
Excellent as always. I do get slightly frustrated at the lack of options for N gauge, but that’s not your fault!😂🙁😉
I have N Gauge ballasting planed, but are you interested?
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway very interested indeed. My comment re couplings was aims at what’s available in the market for N Gauge, of course. Lots of choice for OO.
Charlie i would wire up the led in that switch to come on when the uncoupler is activated, will give great visual feedback
Yes, but I think it would be better if the light went off when energised. Regards, Charlie
I believe that you are very wise to refer to having lunch, prior to undertaking the careful installation of the Kadee Solenoid Uncoupler. I also feel that a railway modeler's lunch should be nutritious and wholesome, perhaps consisting of a wholemeal toasted sandwich filled with fresh ham from a deli counter, parmesan cheese, and with a light green salad with a homemade dressing, and freshly chopped red onion. Maybe accompanied with freshly squeezed orange juice. Then, for dessert, natural yogurt, with sliced banana and honey, then perhaps a cup of freshly roasted coffee. A light mid-day meal then, to provide sustenance for a busy afternoon ahead.
Actually Alan, it was an oxtail cuppa soup!
Regards Charlie
What an interesting system! It looks really quite handy, I have to admit I'm not really a fan of Kadees, because I really can't suspend my disbelief if I see a British locomotive running with such a detailed American coupler even though I absolutely can with tension locks or magnetic coupling like from Hunt couplings. Although it seems that Kadee is basically the most sensible route to go for having functional couplings that don't protrude much.
Interesting comment. However, these are much more preferable than our normal tension lock couplings. Regards, Charlie
HI Charlie.
1.5amps was referred to twice so, simple arithmetic shows you that 2 x 1.5amps = 3amps. Simples! 😊
Paul.
How silly of me to have missed that Paul. Regards, Charlie
Charlie.
It wasn't really silly of you as anyone who left school a very looong time ago is prone to simple mistakes. 😅
I'd just like to point out that with uncoupling devices permanently positioned on the track, you are restricted with your shunting operations. Therefore, if you have to uncouple a rake of only 3 wagons, they could be ‘parked’ several dozen yards from the end of the line where the unloading bay is situated. Personally, I would use the good old fashioned method of a bent lolly stick for both wagons and carriages, even if the ‘hand of God’ is looked upon as sacrilege.
Regards,
Paul. 👍
I read Steve Jubb's comment which was actually a very good option, my thought was just the opposite, wire the LED on the push button to the NO side along with the power to the solenoid so that the LED is illuminated while the uncoupler is active. So it becomes your choice as to which way you want to go with the LEDs, always on until you activate the uncoupler or only on when the uncoupler is energized. You might have some sleepless nights pondering that decision. 😉😉
It’s an excellent dilemma, Dave, but I would go for the LED off when energised. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Right choice - then the switch is illuminated so you can find it when you need it!
Charlie when I saw the title of the video I wondered what it was about until I watched the video because I know them as kadee electro magnetic uncouplers.
Perhaps I should change the title Earl. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway no need to change the title of your video I was only pointing out how American english is different from british english; it like you said petro and we say gasoline or you biscuit and we say cooky (by the way a biscuit is a type of savory roll in american english).
When I built my little layout, I installed a Kadee #308 uncoupler magnet under the track on a siding. It's fine for that because any unintentional decouples will already be on a siding and I can take another shot at it.
Rolling stock that I use for the industries on that siding have had steel weights replaced with lead, or copper pennies, and all wheel sets are non-magnetic.
It would indeed be far better to use the #309 as you show here for mainline and large or busy areas. I know Loksound decoders include an auto decouple shuffle that can be triggered with a function button and adjusted to get the timing right. That could be a next step if you use those. Then it'd just be two button pushes.
I feel like this could all be automated actually. One press and it's all done for you, but you'd need the decoupler to talk dcc as well. Maybe I'm rambling? OK, thanks for another good one!
You’re bang on the money, Tom. I do use ESU decoders and have enabled the uncouple shuffle. Hopefully Train Controller can automate it all. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie! Informative and very timely video as I've recently been watching Larry's video on the other uncoupling options, and you've introduced me to an option I was previously unaware of. Looking at your particular use case, could you run both turnout push buttons through a single timer, given that they're side by side? I'm now starting to think about uncoupling options for my own layout which is under construction but as you say, the solenoid option certainly ain't cheap!!
BTW the end of February is fast approaching so I hope you have enough time to stick to your monthly schedule? 😉
Cheers, Peter
Great comment Peter.
However, if you wire both solenoids together, then you would pull twice the power from the transformer.
Yes I do realise I am up against my February deadline.! Regards, Charlie
Great update Charlie with some very useful and interesting information! I'd never seen those countdown timers before and am sure they'd be useful in a range of situations, both for delaying and prolonging the operation of some external device! However, I was wondering if instead of using a push button, could you use DCC to trigger the countdown? I suppose I'm asking if you know of a way to use a DCC signal to replicate a momentary contact switch? Keep the good content coming! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, it’s funny that you ask that question. It’s something I’m currently working on. I’m using a reed switch to feedback into the system to see if it will auto uncouple. Regards Charlie
Interesting video Charlie. I am in the process of converting my stock to Kadee, and looked long and hard at this exact solution as I didn't want visible magnets between the rails. However, I eventually went with neodymium magnets mounted on a hinged plate that is moved with a servo. I think it is a bit cheaper than using Kadee's solenoid, and only requires the servos to be wired. Also there is no possibility of a solenoid overheating or burning out if there is a problem with the relay not switching off. All horses for courses I guess, but it is an alternative for an underboard solution.
What an excellent alternative Sorarse.
Regards Charlie
Do it without the hing. Attach magnet to servo ‘arm’. Move 180 degrees.
@@gregdotlola That would be another way, but my baseboards are 12mm, and would find it difficult to mount the servo in such a way as to get the magnets (I use two) flush with the baseboard top under the rail.
Hi Sorarse, can you give me a little more detail on the size, magnetic strength, and number of magnets you used. Also the distance underneath the rails and orientation they are mounted. Thanks
@@johntuttle5045 John. I used 15mm dia x 3mm thick round neodymium magnets. I use two per decoupler, mounted across the rails and as close as I could get them. Basically I cut a hole in the baseboard, and then placed a small piece of very thin plastic across the hole to stop the ballast falling through, and when operated the magnets come up flush to the plastic. As you probably know, neodymium magnets come in different strengths, and I bought the strongest I could find. Hope that helps.
INCHES AND STUFF
Another excellent and informative video.
Well done... AND.....
Bravo Charlie.....proper measurement stuff...!
Perhaps a Spade Blade Drill Bit instead of the Jigsaw. A couple of holes and it would basically be done..... and maybe a little less mess, (sawdust). Mind you an extra bit of sawdust can always be retained for future landscape filling or touching-up I suppose.
Just a suggestion..!
James Hennighan
Yorkshire, England
P.S.
Thanks for the numerous links to the bits & pieces....
Thanks James, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it, sorry about the mess. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, I was hoping to get some advice regarding the ferrules that you use on your layout as I am looking for a more suitable way of connecting the bare wires. Your solution looks perfect for my needs.
As always a great and interesting update to your work on the layout.
Regards Allan
Hi Alan, the ferrules and crimps that I use are all in the show more tab. Regards, Charlie
If you wire the switch illumination to the relay output you could use that as an indication to the solenoid being energised
Yes, but I think it’s better the other way around so it goes out when it is energised. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway easily enough done through the relay NC contact 🙂 as I'm sure you know
As an American I'm very happy you are using 'made in U.S.A.' kadee couplers and i thank you for that.👍 Greetings from the U.S.A.!
Thanks Michael, anything to support your economy. I do hope you can do the same for us, regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you, unfortunately hardly anything is made in the US nowadays except for kadee couplers and i hardly seen any made in UK products here it's a rarity now.
Great video Charlie! Hey, I've seen online (eBay) those push button switches with their internal LED lights having a separate terminal connection, so you could possibly wire that green LED status light on board parallel to the switch or just remove that status green light entirely and run wires to the switches separate LED contacts so when you press the switch it will only light up while the solenoid is on!👍
Yes you’re right mate. I could illuminate the switch only when it’s not energised. Regards Charlie
I was thinking the same thing, though to save soldering the switch LED to the board, just power the LED from the same output as the solenoid assuming the LED is happy to operate in the same voltage range as the solenoid.
William
Thanks William, regards, Charlie
A 2-56 screw means that it is a size 2 screw with 56 threads per inch. Metric screw threads are measured by the distance between the threads.
Thanks Dave, it appears that every day really is a school day. Regards, Charlie