Hey Eric, I noticed you haven't posted in 3 years! I hope you are still climbing and filming. would love to see more of your climbs. Helps me understand placement of gear. Let us younger folks learn from your current experience
10:21 I thought to myself "Dang that's a nice placement" pretty much simultaneously to you saying it yourself. Nice climb, be safe, may the gear never fail.
love your videos man - I too am getting older yet my desire to climb is as strong as ever....I am 53 now and just can't free climb trad routes like I did ten years ago....I have moved on to solo aid climbing - as all my old partners are finished climbing and the young kids are mostly bolt clippers which I have no interest in.... ...I have done nothing really fantastic yet, the split pillar on the grand wall in Squamish but I am planning a trip down to Yoesemite to give Washington Collum a whirl next summer...seems like a worthy objective! Anyway, love your videos man, you give us older dudes some inspiration!
Eric, great to see solo and aide. I'm 49, looking to hit the Zodiac very soon. Had never the time or opportunity years ago in the military. Now it's the same as badnews below with my old partners whether out of the country or time. Here in Texas only have E-Rock, 3 hours and Hueco Tanks, 12 hours away for nice climbing but most places are anti-aide and very anti-hammer. Would love to hours more of this. Again, very nice to see the older guys on Video. Be safe. JJ
some really nice gear placements.....I like to see a guy who uses a variety of gear not just cam after cam after cam..........I started climbing just around the time the first set of stiff shaft wild country "Friends" came out.......still have them and still work great.....I noticed you also placed a nice Tricam, I never see many people other than myself using tricams - I like to use them ice climbing up here in canada. as when set in a ice crack in cam position the nubin digs in and seats itself quite - well...........oh , I just heard you answer my previous question - I thought I saw a grigri....
Its irritating to see people not bothering to use gear other than cams (especially on sandstone like in Zion). Placing passive pro makes so much sense to me. You will learn to place all types of protection better, you can carry much more for the same weight, its great should you ever need to bail leaving gear, and its wildly affordable compared to cams. Offset stoppers fit the placements in Zion better than anything and were the mvp of pro when I climbed Prodigal Sun.
There is a way to modify a gri gri so that it works better for soloing. I’m guessing the info is online somewhere. It just made the rope feed through it easier by removing a fin of metal and adding a small swaged wire loop for the purpose of clipping it to a chest harness to further help with self feeding the rope (I think that was primarily for free climbing situations but I never ended up using it). Really should find it and take a picture since I’m not very good at explaining it. I guess I can’t really recommend that someone else do it to their device as I would hate to advise that someone do something that is potentially dangerous.
I use an Unmodded grigri for pitches that I feel are sketchy, I also use a wild country revo because it feeds so well, but I don’t feel as secure with it. The device all solo climbers really need is a silent partner.
Hi, Eric. Great videos, I ma learning a lot from you. Can you tell me which brands of sleeping bag and pad you use in this video? Keep on searching for the fountain of youth :-) Mauro from Italy
Is your gri gri modified? I had mine modified by my aid climbing mentor to make it work smoother for self belaying. Although it was used for belaying a climbing parter the vast majority of the time. Thanks for sharing this video. It’s been fun lately to watch videos on RUclips while trying to remember as much of the big wall climbing experience as is possible after so many years.
So you think the revo will be a good rope solo device? I was wondering that for a while. It really seems like it could be very similar to a silent partner (minus the whole clove hitch and rope twisting thing) but MUCH more compact.
Hey Eric, love your videos man - you climb aid really well, and know your system well and your gear...very informative as I am just starting to get into aid climbing more as I am in my 50s and have very bad knees...thus free climbing is done unless I get my knees resurfaced soon? In Canada it is free which is nice but it takes time....which is a drag...but I still prefer our socialized medical system here in Canada to what the US has to offer its citizens.... ! I would really like to know what solo system you are using ??? there are so many different devices on the market now - there is one I have heard a lot of good things about - forget the name of the system but I believe you attach your rope to with a munter hitch - it looks like a cylinder capped at both ends? sound familiar? I used to have an old soloist and used a chest harness but no good for inverted falls which can happen quite easily when standing in the top step of your etrier , as I am sure you know ----
Sounds like you are talking about the Silent Partner. It is certainly the most advanced option for self belay but being discontinued the prices have gone up an insane amount with units commanding crazy prices ($800 and up, basically robbery for a device which retailed for $199 when they came out). I would recommend using a Gri Gri (Version 1). It will work great for aid climbing and the only time it really has any deficiency is if you are free climbing.
An Australian climber made them in a few small batches years ago. Ive tried to look for them recently with no luck, as they look really cool. There is a tool the sell at the hardware store that will do something similar (without the nut tool shaped hook though) for maybe $10.
wtf mate, always tie in while sleeping on the wall 16:20 holy cow. You never know if bugs or something might bite you to startle you and .... you gone.
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Hey Eric, I noticed you haven't posted in 3 years! I hope you are still climbing and filming. would love to see more of your climbs. Helps me understand placement of gear. Let us younger folks learn from your current experience
Looks like it was an awesome weekend
Epic! Great job.
I love this video for the brief explanations of your systems.
10:21 I thought to myself "Dang that's a nice placement" pretty much simultaneously to you saying it yourself. Nice climb, be safe, may the gear never fail.
Man, diggin' that pink tri-cam placement.
Thanks for sharing Eric. Really enjoyed watching you progress
love your videos man - I too am getting older yet my desire to climb is as strong as ever....I am 53 now and just can't free climb trad routes like I did ten years ago....I have moved on to solo aid climbing - as all my old partners are finished climbing and the young kids are mostly bolt clippers which I have no interest in.... ...I have done nothing really fantastic yet, the split pillar on the grand wall in Squamish but I am planning a trip down to Yoesemite to give Washington Collum a whirl next summer...seems like a worthy objective! Anyway, love your videos man, you give us older dudes some inspiration!
Thanks :)
Eric, great to see solo and aide. I'm 49, looking to hit the Zodiac very soon. Had never the time or opportunity years ago in the military. Now it's the same as badnews below with my old partners whether out of the country or time. Here in Texas only have E-Rock, 3 hours and Hueco Tanks, 12 hours away for nice climbing but most places are anti-aide and very anti-hammer. Would love to hours more of this. Again, very nice to see the older guys on Video. Be safe. JJ
Enjoyed it! thanks for the video.
Very cool, thanks for letting us tag along. Cheers
You're awesome!!! Thanks for showing how you set your anchors!
some really nice gear placements.....I like to see a guy who uses a variety of gear not just cam after cam after cam..........I started climbing just around the time the first set of stiff shaft wild country "Friends" came out.......still have them and still work great.....I noticed you also placed a nice Tricam, I never see many people other than myself using tricams - I like to use them ice climbing up here in canada. as when set in a ice crack in cam position the nubin digs in and seats itself quite - well...........oh , I just heard you answer my previous question - I thought I saw a grigri....
Its irritating to see people not bothering to use gear other than cams (especially on sandstone like in Zion). Placing passive pro makes so much sense to me. You will learn to place all types of protection better, you can carry much more for the same weight, its great should you ever need to bail leaving gear, and its wildly affordable compared to cams. Offset stoppers fit the placements in Zion better than anything and were the mvp of pro when I climbed Prodigal Sun.
"I do not tie in when sleeping"... holy moly 😮😆
Good work sir!
Awesome place
Nice Videos
Could you please do a video on your method for lead soloing. I’m trying to get into it and am scouting out different methods
GearAddictClimber from what I can see it looks like he’s just using a GriGri
Grigri + figure eight as backup knot
There is a way to modify a gri gri so that it works better for soloing. I’m guessing the info is online somewhere. It just made the rope feed through it easier by removing a fin of metal and adding a small swaged wire loop for the purpose of clipping it to a chest harness to further help with self feeding the rope (I think that was primarily for free climbing situations but I never ended up using it). Really should find it and take a picture since I’m not very good at explaining it. I guess I can’t really recommend that someone else do it to their device as I would hate to advise that someone do something that is potentially dangerous.
I use an Unmodded grigri for pitches that I feel are sketchy, I also use a wild country revo because it feeds so well, but I don’t feel as secure with it. The device all solo climbers really need is a silent partner.
Hi, Eric. Great videos, I ma learning a lot from you. Can you tell me which brands of sleeping bag and pad you use in this video? Keep on searching for the fountain of youth :-) Mauro from Italy
superbe images de solo
Is your gri gri modified? I had mine modified by my aid climbing mentor to make it work smoother for self belaying. Although it was used for belaying a climbing parter the vast majority of the time.
Thanks for sharing this video. It’s been fun lately to watch videos on RUclips while trying to remember as much of the big wall climbing experience as is possible after so many years.
Nice video, Eric. What pitch is that bivy at 17:00 on, and do you think that there is room for 2 people there without a portaledge?
It's the top of the 3rd pitch. Can fit 2 people, but tight.
wow
So you think the revo will be a good rope solo device? I was wondering that for a while. It really seems like it could be very similar to a silent partner (minus the whole clove hitch and rope twisting thing) but MUCH more compact.
You stil alive bro?
Hey Eric, love your videos man - you climb aid really well, and know your system well and your gear...very informative as I am just starting to get into aid climbing more as I am in my 50s and have very bad knees...thus free climbing is done unless I get my knees resurfaced soon? In Canada it is free which is nice but it takes time....which is a drag...but I still prefer our socialized medical system here in Canada to what the US has to offer its citizens.... ! I would really like to know what solo system you are using ??? there are so many different devices on the market now - there is one I have heard a lot of good things about - forget the name of the system but I believe you attach your rope to with a munter hitch - it looks like a cylinder capped at both ends? sound familiar? I used to have an old soloist and used a chest harness but no good for inverted falls which can happen quite easily when standing in the top step of your etrier , as I am sure you know ----
Sounds like you are talking about the Silent Partner. It is certainly the most advanced option for self belay but being discontinued the prices have gone up an insane amount with units commanding crazy prices ($800 and up, basically robbery for a device which retailed for $199 when they came out). I would recommend using a Gri Gri (Version 1). It will work great for aid climbing and the only time it really has any deficiency is if you are free climbing.
Love your videos buddy! Did you get your Revo yet? Can't wait to buy one myself.
starting to think revo won't be good for solo belay :/
did you retrieve any gear from that climb?
Hey Eric, the one solo device I have heard and read nothing but good things about is the "Silent Partner" ever heard of it? any thoughts on it????
Yea. Tried to get one a couple years ago, but they don't sell them anymore. Too much liability I guess. I just use a modified grigri.
Eric, do you carry a haul line when you're soloing or do you just use the lead rope? Thanks!
Just use the lead line. An extra rope weighs so much that I don't carry one unless the descent requires a double rope rappel.
@@ericsadventures9838 Thanks! Awesome videos, they're super helpful!
Dude! Where do I get that slide hammer nut tool!?
An Australian climber made them in a few small batches years ago. Ive tried to look for them recently with no luck, as they look really cool. There is a tool the sell at the hardware store that will do something similar (without the nut tool shaped hook though) for maybe $10.
wtf mate, always tie in while sleeping on the wall 16:20 holy cow. You never know if bugs or something might bite you to startle you and .... you gone.