I watched all your video's and taken apart all my bikes.... now i realize i just like the videos... and i have a huge mess of parts in my tiny apartment.
Thanks to this video, while it wasn't directly what my problem was, it helped me solve it. My rear wheel was wobbling in the frame and I have a quick release. I thought the quick release was a bit slack so, I tightened it a little, no joy. I then proceeded to take apart my hub, which is where your clear and detailed instructions helped me. I realised my cone was a little loose and just needed to be moved along the axle a little. So, I took two spanners (wrenches), one for the cone, one for the locknut and loosened them. I moved the cone along the axle a little, tightened the locknut, put it back together and then back in the frame. I got a slight wobble but I realised I was on the right track and proceeded with the same steps. A little more along the axle and hey, not a single bit of wobble or play. Your video saved me a good £50 in a bike shop repair so, thank you very, very much for your exceptional tutorial.
I enjoyed watching this video I've my grandsons rear wheel to sort out as he has wobble side to side, it's been a good 30 plus years since I've done this so very nice to watch and refresh my mind again many thanks
I will no longer try to fix wobble with an extra ball bearing. Great teaching and awesome contributions of knowledge and experience in comments. Definitely subscribing.
I know this was old but I know where that wobble is. It is about the uneven force exerted to the pawls by the spring. One is stronger than the other side so it tends to wobble. And this usually happens with thread types sprockets. I opened one and eventually eliminate wobbling. Just sharing :)
i have had that apart and know there are 2 spring loaded tabs that i can see are always either dragging making that sound or engaged while pedaling, so youre saying one spring is stronger and that makes it wobble? i cant envision that and i dont think RJ will have a perfectly true wheel unless he gets a new one.
Unless it's the spoke tension. It's possible that the entire hub housing is at a slight angle because of incorrect spoke tension, which would create a wobble.
thank you, mine has also this problem, will repair asap when my tool arrives and take this into account upon checking, been looking all around the net for what cause this problem.
It’s fun to watch the stroboscopic affect as he spins the freewheel at around 0:40. Some gears appear to rotate clockwise while others appear to rotate counterclockwise.
I always use a similar size closed wrench over the dust cap to tap it back in evenly. As for the wobble, it's the off-centered free wheel configuration, compared to the more balnaced free-hub/cassette combination. That usually wears out the hub shell unevenly. Always love watching your videos, RJ, in fact, you're my bike mentor. Thanks
Awesome video. I have found that the wobble seems to be related to the hub threading. Doesn't seem to affect the shifting much. It is annoying though when you think of the money you spend on a bike only to get something like that.
This video has been incredibly helpful for me to replace a completely broken axle. I've been learning so much from the other videos as well and it's so damn handy and satisfying to be able to fix at least on of my commuting vehicles :D
The freewheel hub mount treads are not centered properly this is very common on cheaper freewheel mount type hub wheels. Good video. I have some wheels with barely any wobble, but some wheels that wobble the same freewheel it is due to cheaply made wheel hubs.
rasheem mcdowell Of course you can ride the bike without any issues as it does not affect shifting, the only issue is when you are freewheeling the free wheel will look like its wobbling ( messes with your mind). My main cheap road bike is still using the original wobbling freewheel mount with no issues for years now. Nothing wrong with this but like I said it does mess with your mind seeing crooked like freewheeling it 😂
Thank you for the video. I couldn't setup the cone, spacer and the nut lock properly for 3 days until I came across your video. Really appreciate all the details.
So glad i found your channel, I plan on repairing an older ish schwinn my family has had for years. and the back tire/free wheel wobbles, so I'm going to buy the tools I need to take the free wheel off and see if I have the same problem. thanks for uploading such a detailed video that's very straight forward and to the point,
Excellent video narration with great editing to give the important points without wasted time. Primo. You've given me the confidence to get rid of my wobble, saving me money at the bike shop and time without my bike. Thank you for this. 🙂
While you didn't fix the problem it is always good to see how something is took apart and put back together. As this is something that is what seems like it would happen in reality and not just one of the videos where the issues would be totally fixed or a brand new wheel like a polished videos as I think 90 percent of people don't have to bikes that's are over a grand , nice vid mate
RJ, your videos are still internet gold for those who can search/read, act AND then repeat if necessary. Sheldon Brown's static web pages got me started on basic Bike DIY & simplification some years pre-YT; I still now trawl through your video archives again based upon 'old quality' bike parts I pick up and want to service & re-use.
Hey, RJ, thanks for the great video. I had the same wheel with the same problem (except, proper amount of bearings) that wobble is caused by slightly bent axle on the drive side (under the freewheel). Found that with help of a lot of eyeballing and measurements. When I replaced the axle and the freewheel that was not originaly there, wobble was gone completely. Also, this will cause faster freewheel failure in a long run.
I'm really enjoying watch your videos, I was inspired to go out and get a couple of damaged old Raleigh's. I'm in the process of cleaning them up and getting some new parts for them.
An inexpensively manufactured and poorly machined wheel at the outset I'd venture. The tendency to crowd the bearing number is quite common and probably is what exacerbated the poor wheel concentricity and parallelism to begin with. Your efforts did mitigate the wobble considerably, but the damage was already done by your predecessors overzealous and misguided attempt at over-bearing the race. Great video, as always and your camera work is impeccable. Good job. Big Fan Mike Kirwan (Kenmore, WA)
I don't know if this did solve my problem but when i went back to my bike and decided to tighten The Other side first it made the wobble go away :o so thanks for the inspiration!
Hey RJ your video tutorials are the best! the explanation, the camera angles and the tips helped me a lot on trouble shooting my own bike thanks a lot!
Totally agree with you. One should NEVER hammer directly on ANY kind of seal/dust cover. The chances of denting/bending the seal/cover are too great. Those dust covers are VERY flimsy,
Great Job Mr. Ur videos are invaluable support for me ! Ur showing all step by step and explaining everything. This channel is awesome. Recently I bought very old race bike and this channel is ultra helpful to maintenance this bike in shape. Keep doing this pls :) Greetings from Poland.
wow. I'm learning a lot. my Wal-Mart mountain bike needs a rear fix due to wobble. I have no tools and want to get them. what is the best place to get tools that are not expensive? thanks
Hey, I just bought a set of bike tools 2 weeks ago to teach my nephew to work on his BMX. I got the Amazon choice 23 piece bicycle tool kit. It’s cheep and the tools are very basic, but we have done a lot with it. For the money it’s a decent kit. I supplement it with a socket set and a set of metric wrenches. We have not found anything we can’t do yet.
It must have been in the axle. My bike is doing the wobble and after removing the axle I saw it has worn threads as if it was striped. This might have been causing the nuts to come loose. I am attempting to replace the axle and barring's with new parts. Trying to remove the LOCK RING on my freewheel is proving most difficult. ( the whole bloody thing is stuck) anyway, Once I have completed my repairs I will share the highlights of my efforts to the problems of WHEELWOBBLE. Thanks for a great informative video.
In Bikes I have fixed the cheaper the hub, the more wobble there is in the freewheel. I assume it has something to do with the level of attention to detail when manufacturing it.
Thanks for you videos,believe me they are a great help,and I have learn a lot about working on bikes,I really needed this video.I got a loose hub,that wobbles.I will fix it.Thanks again.I try and watch all your videos.I have really learned alot.
Great video! Thank you. Not everyone can make good videos. Like the guy said below about his apt full of bike parts. Great camera work and voice/sound.
The extra 5mm of free axle length on the drive side is to allow for the thickness of the claw type of rear derailer. For a frame with a hanger, of course, the free axle lengths would be the same.
Naa man.. Look 0:34 it clearly shows that there are to many bearings in there. Although i think there is that low qulity hub efect also. Both of those things made it look so bad.. u could eaven see the wheel itself wobling around.
Whether bicycle or boat trailer etc.., I tap dust caps in with a piece of equal or near equal diameter thick walled PVC pipe, so that the cap doesn't tilt and pressure is equal for each tap all the way around.
It's bad machining of the wheel hub that is the cause of the wobble. The freewheel is normally machined true, but the wheel hub sometimes on cheaper makes, has not been placed in the lathe machine correctly.
Mr. RJ, our bike has a wobbly back wheel (definitely the hub/axle) and also the plastic disk is broken. I'd like to also change the plastic disk when I fix the axle/bearings or whatever else is causing the wobble. What is the clear plastic disk called? Also, are they universal?
I have the same wobble in a vintage bike after repairing other damage to the drive side- bent axle, crunched derailleur- looks like the cup on that side is not in straight. Haven't been able to straighten it out yet.
Definitely interesting! As so many have said... you’re great! Videos are excellent to watch, great simple explanations, great camera angles and lighting, voice is clear with no marbles (or bearings) in the mouth!, and you clearly have great understanding, experience, and care for the subject at hand. Great confidence in your approach that inspires others to not be afraid! Now... all that being said... what tools should I start with to service my ‘88 Schwinn tempo? I’m thinking about the bottom bracket first... the bike doesn’t really show any problems but I’m the original owner and I can’t tell you the last time it was really serviced... it has the Shimano 105 cranks and 105 everything else too lol... thank you for any advice!
this video was helpful, thank you, I have the same problem with my back wheel, and my front wheel is also messed up, would there be a way I can send you a video to show you what's wrong?
Wel Bike Guy,yhe wobling is made for making the transport between the shifting easier ! This is made especialy from the fabricator,this is no mallfunction ! John
Hey, RJ - thanks for another great video! Can you tell me the make/model of your vice and the max jaw width of it? I've found a similar item in the UK but it comes in three possible max jaw widths (61, 84, 86mm).(I don't think your vice is on the 'Tools' page on your website) Thanks!
I was just regreasing my hubs today. On my front wheel one side had 9 bearings and the other side had 10. I got the hub cleaned nice and greased, I put 9 bearings in one side then decided to go out on my porch and put the rest of the bearings in outside, i then proceeded to knock over the cup that had the ball bearings in it and lost 3. I checked Home depot and they had the right size 3/16 but they were charging $1.25 for one ball bearing. I then called Wheel and Sprocket and the service guy told me to head over and he would just give me some ball bearings. I successfully got the bearings reinstalled and put 10 on each side, my wheels feel so much more smoother now considering I've had the bike for about 3yrs and ride it year round including in the snow and slush during winter. (Also I wish i had known that the dust cover was removable, lol, i had to clean the race out with a bunch of q-tips. Well now i know.)
I have the exact same wobble. Overhaul didnt correct issue and its still too much as I use the bike on a smart trainer. Is the bearing race cup typically replaceable? I think Ive narrowed it down to that. The cone was worn badly asymmetrically so it had to be replaced too. Great channel. Thanks.
What happens if the race surface area is worn? can you replace this? or do you need to buy another hub/wheel? Having said that this is a great video and very helpful !!
My bike does the exact same thing and I’m glad I can tell now that it’s probably gonna be a bearing issue. Or even a thread issue. Unfortunately I don’t have any of the tools to do it myself at home. Back to my local bike shop
How often would you say it's worth servicing hubs? Notice I can wobble my front wheel slightly so I'm going to get some cone spanners and give it a go.
Ive been looking for a solution for my bike, there seems to be a wobbly back tire and i never noticed it until one of my friends had mentioned it to me, so this video might come in super handy, i have all the tools at my place to fix this problem, so im going to attempt it at home before taking it into any professional.
Hey when I grab my rear brakes my rear wheel jitters and makes a loud noise and I think it's possibly the bearings as when I grab my back wheel and move it back and forth it wobbles a tiny bit
I have a brand new out of the box 21 speed road bike with a wobble already. Haven’t even ridden it yet. Would this wobble not allow it to go through all the gears? I brought it to a bike shop who adjusted the derailleur and it still won’t go into 6 and 7th gear. He tried to tell me the cassette is probably bad and why it’s wobbling. A wobble on a brand new bike would make it not shift? Doesn’t sound right.
Very good instructional video to overhaul a hub sometimes when the wheel is wibbly wobbly sometimes the mechanics they will reuse the old ball bearings but the smart thing to do when you overhaul any kind of Hub or bottom bracket or headset always replace with new ball bearings never reused the old ball bearings even if the old ball bearings were nice and shiny and clean if you were to look at the old ball bearings under a microscope you will see that the ball bearings are no longer perfectly round due to the pressure points making contact with metal to metal ball bearings take on the shape of an egg just saying.
Now I know someone must have done maintenance on my rear hub and put the warped dust cap on backwards 😮 Are all the wheel bearings the same size for all bikes ?
Good explanation on servicing the hub but it seems the same before and after if you ask me Just like all of my service work on my bikes. I usually lie to myself and say it's a little bit better.
Do you recommend chrome plated steel bearings or stainless steel bearings and what is the difference, I simply do not know. Thanks and great video as they all are very informative
Hi RJ, I now have two cruisers with coaster brakes, & for some reason both of the hubs come loose at the anchor side after riding just a mile or two..?
What did you use to clean everything? I've heard of using WD-40, is that good for the parts, or is there some type of solvent made to clean old grease off of bike parts?
Thanks, very useful! I’ve finally managed to fix my bearings and make it smooth. I had to replace my bearing dust cover in the end. Can I ask, what might be causing the remaining wobble in the video at the end? Might the hub be warped? (Scratch that, I just read the comments).
Hello RJ, I have a wobbling rear hub but its weird. When on bench the cassette and brake disc wobble a lot. More than 1mm both. And the pads rub on the disc offcourse as the disc goes from side to side. But when driving (weight loaded) the pads do not rub at all, and dics and pads seem nicely aligned. And shifting works at least adequately. Any ideas what going on? Can something be broken? Fortunately I have a used replacement rearwheel, I think I am gonna use that.
I just got an adult tricycle (worksman folding). So far. The basket came crushed, they replaced it and sent the wrong one. The left rear tire was bent, they sent a new one and it still wobbling, not as much but still not right. We are not bike specialists but was wondering if you could suggest something as to why it still wobbles. This trike was not cheap.
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I watched all your video's and taken apart all my bikes.... now i realize i just like the videos... and i have a huge mess of parts in my tiny apartment.
+Ted Byun You need to put them back together!
Lol funny
sell them
Same here !
So help me Lord .
Thanks to this video, while it wasn't directly what my problem was, it helped me solve it.
My rear wheel was wobbling in the frame and I have a quick release. I thought the quick release was a bit slack so, I tightened it a little, no joy.
I then proceeded to take apart my hub, which is where your clear and detailed instructions helped me. I realised my cone was a little loose and just needed to be moved along the axle a little. So, I took two spanners (wrenches), one for the cone, one for the locknut and loosened them. I moved the cone along the axle a little, tightened the locknut, put it back together and then back in the frame.
I got a slight wobble but I realised I was on the right track and proceeded with the same steps. A little more along the axle and hey, not a single bit of wobble or play.
Your video saved me a good £50 in a bike shop repair so, thank you very, very much for your exceptional tutorial.
I enjoyed watching this video I've my grandsons rear wheel to sort out as he has wobble side to side, it's been a good 30 plus years since I've done this so very nice to watch and refresh my mind again many thanks
I will no longer try to fix wobble with an extra ball bearing. Great teaching and awesome contributions of knowledge and experience in comments. Definitely subscribing.
I know this was old but I know where that wobble is. It is about the uneven force exerted to the pawls by the spring. One is stronger than the other side so it tends to wobble. And this usually happens with thread types sprockets. I opened one and eventually eliminate wobbling. Just sharing :)
How?
i have had that apart and know there are 2 spring loaded tabs that i can see are always either dragging making that sound or engaged while pedaling, so youre saying one spring is stronger and that makes it wobble? i cant envision that and i dont think RJ will have a perfectly true wheel unless he gets a new one.
Unless it's the spoke tension. It's possible that the entire hub housing is at a slight angle because of incorrect spoke tension, which would create a wobble.
thank you, mine has also this problem, will repair asap when my tool arrives and take this into account upon checking, been looking all around the net for what cause this problem.
It's not about spring holding pawls,it's about spacer rings holding upper freewheel bearings under lockring
It’s fun to watch the stroboscopic affect as he spins the freewheel at around 0:40. Some gears appear to rotate clockwise while others appear to rotate counterclockwise.
I always use a similar size closed wrench over the dust cap to tap it back in evenly. As for the wobble, it's the off-centered free wheel configuration, compared to the more balnaced free-hub/cassette combination. That usually wears out the hub shell unevenly. Always love watching your videos, RJ, in fact, you're my bike mentor. Thanks
Awesome video. I have found that the wobble seems to be related to the hub threading. Doesn't seem to affect the shifting much. It is annoying though when you think of the money you spend on a bike only to get something like that.
When I look up bike videos/instructionals I always make sure to look for yours first, thank you for being the best out there
This video has been incredibly helpful for me to replace a completely broken axle. I've been learning so much from the other videos as well and it's so damn handy and satisfying to be able to fix at least on of my commuting vehicles :D
No one explained the way you did! I was tiered and frustrated to get wobble out of rear wheel- your video made it happened in 20 mins ! thanks
The freewheel hub mount treads are not centered properly this is very common on cheaper freewheel mount type hub wheels. Good video. I have some wheels with barely any wobble, but some wheels that wobble the same freewheel it is due to cheaply made wheel hubs.
Danfuerth Gillis can you still ride the bikes or is this a “must fix” problem??
@@rasheemmcdowell4144 it's not recommended to ride since it will cause permanent damage
an answer! great to know
rasheem mcdowell Of course you can ride the bike without any issues as it does not affect shifting, the only issue is when you are freewheeling the free wheel will look like its wobbling ( messes with your mind). My main cheap road bike is still using the original wobbling freewheel mount with no issues for years now. Nothing wrong with this but like I said it does mess with your mind seeing crooked like freewheeling it 😂
Absolutely agree.
I saw it also here:
ruclips.net/video/6C9_dvfQNP8/видео.html
Thank you for the video. I couldn't setup the cone, spacer and the nut lock properly for 3 days until I came across your video. Really appreciate all the details.
Exactly my problem on an ancient Huffy. Thanks! Also your video on cassette vs. freewheel was the best on the topic.
So glad i found your channel, I plan on repairing an older ish schwinn my family has had for years. and the back tire/free wheel wobbles, so I'm going to buy the tools I need to take the free wheel off and see if I have the same problem. thanks for uploading such a detailed video that's very straight forward and to the point,
Excellent video narration with great editing to give the important points without wasted time. Primo. You've given me the confidence to get rid of my wobble, saving me money at the bike shop and time without my bike. Thank you for this. 🙂
While you didn't fix the problem it is always good to see how something is took apart and put back together. As this is something that is what seems like it would happen in reality and not just one of the videos where the issues would be totally fixed or a brand new wheel like a polished videos as I think 90 percent of people don't have to bikes that's are over a grand , nice vid mate
Thank you for the video. My kids are old enough to ride their bikes now and I wanted to impress them by fixing the wobble.
This was a unique case. I am guess yours is something different. Maybe rim needs trued, or loose hub?
RJ, your videos are still internet gold for those who can search/read, act AND then repeat if necessary.
Sheldon Brown's static web pages got me started on basic Bike DIY & simplification some years pre-YT; I still now trawl through your video archives again based upon 'old quality' bike parts I pick up and want to service & re-use.
Yeap. The two sources you mention are the most exhaustive for sure. Park Tool youtube channel has good tutorials on mounting/adjusting (rim) brakes.
Hey, RJ, thanks for the great video. I had the same wheel with the same problem (except, proper amount of bearings) that wobble is caused by slightly bent axle on the drive side (under the freewheel). Found that with help of a lot of eyeballing and measurements. When I replaced the axle and the freewheel that was not originaly there, wobble was gone completely. Also, this will cause faster freewheel failure in a long run.
Wrong. A freewheel will ALWAYS wobble.
man, i wish you'd live in my neighbourhood! great videos!
That's suggestive!
Yes!! I've been searching for video of how to fix my wobbling bike!! Thank you!!
I'm really enjoying watch your videos, I was inspired to go out and get a couple of damaged old Raleigh's. I'm in the process of cleaning them up and getting some new parts for them.
Wow - awesome job! Step-by-step process! Thank you for the explanation!
An inexpensively manufactured and poorly machined wheel at the outset I'd venture. The tendency to crowd the bearing number is quite common and probably is what exacerbated the poor wheel concentricity and parallelism to begin with. Your efforts did mitigate the wobble considerably, but the damage was already done by your predecessors overzealous and misguided attempt at over-bearing the race. Great video, as always and your camera work is impeccable. Good job.
Big Fan
Mike Kirwan (Kenmore, WA)
It was NOT a good job, because the wheel still wobbled.
I don't know if this did solve my problem but when i went back to my bike and decided to tighten The Other side first it made the wobble go away :o so thanks for the inspiration!
Hey RJ your video tutorials are the best! the explanation, the camera angles and the tips helped me a lot on trouble shooting my own bike thanks a lot!
Very good video. Thanks for sharing. One tip: you can use a piece of wood over the dust cap before hammering.
Totally agree with you. One should NEVER hammer directly on ANY kind of seal/dust cover. The chances of denting/bending the seal/cover are too great. Those dust covers are VERY flimsy,
Been there .. Measuring both sides before proceeding is essential.
Great Job Mr. Ur videos are invaluable support for me ! Ur showing all step by step and explaining everything. This channel is awesome. Recently I bought very old race bike and this channel is ultra helpful to maintenance this bike in shape. Keep doing this pls :) Greetings from Poland.
Can i suggest a thor nylon soft faced hammer when hammering dust caps or anything similar it would do less damage.
Good point👍. How about a sock hammer lol or any cloth over the head has worked well for me.
or just a rubber mallet
It’s bike repair, not cardiac surgery. It’s fine to be a bit careless, it will do.
@@mariamartins367 not on a $7,000 bike
wow. I'm learning a lot. my Wal-Mart mountain bike needs a rear fix due to wobble. I have no tools and want to get them. what is the best place to get tools that are not expensive? thanks
Hey,
I just bought a set of bike tools 2 weeks ago to teach my nephew to work on his BMX. I got the Amazon choice 23 piece bicycle tool kit. It’s cheep and the tools are very basic, but we have done a lot with it. For the money it’s a decent kit. I supplement it with a socket set and a set of metric wrenches. We have not found anything we can’t do yet.
It must have been in the axle. My bike is doing the wobble and after removing the axle I saw it has worn threads as if it was striped. This might have been causing the nuts to come loose. I am attempting to replace the axle and barring's with new parts. Trying to remove the LOCK RING on my freewheel is proving most difficult. ( the whole bloody thing is stuck)
anyway, Once I have completed my repairs I will share the highlights of my efforts to the problems of WHEELWOBBLE. Thanks for a great informative video.
Thank you for this wonderful video. I just getting started working on bicycles.
In Bikes I have fixed the cheaper the hub, the more wobble there is in the freewheel. I assume it has something to do with the level of attention to detail when manufacturing it.
Thanks for you videos,believe me they are a great help,and I have learn a lot about working on bikes,I really needed this video.I got a loose hub,that wobbles.I will fix it.Thanks again.I try and watch all your videos.I have really learned alot.
Good observation seeing the extra bearings great video thumbs up again
I love all your videos ! Really great shots of the jobs you do ! Great stuff
You are an amazing instructor!
0:05 vs 10:53 so much smooth!
Great video! Thank you. Not everyone can make good videos. Like the guy said below about his apt full of bike parts. Great camera work and voice/sound.
This is so satisfying to watch!
at the end of your video, it still wobbles but thank you for your sharing.
*You are the best RJ the bike man*
The extra 5mm of free axle length on the drive side is to allow for the thickness of the claw type of rear derailer. For a frame with a hanger, of course, the free axle lengths would be the same.
I guess he doesn't know..
Very important info. Thanks!
The wobble is from the threads on the hub. It's not machined perfectly straight thus the freewheel screws on a bit crooked.
Naa man.. Look 0:34 it clearly shows that there are to many bearings in there. Although i think there is that low qulity hub efect also. Both of those things made it look so bad.. u could eaven see the wheel itself wobling around.
but clearly after the issue of having too many bearings was resolved, it still had a wobble, which makes Dennis' comment most likely accurate.
The eccentric wobble is gone after fixing the bearings. Then it was just the freewheel wobbling.
The bearings will not fix the wobble. It may improve a little but is not the answer to the problem.
Axle isn t straight!!!
Whether bicycle or boat trailer etc.., I tap dust caps in with a piece of equal or near equal diameter thick walled PVC pipe, so that the cap doesn't tilt and pressure is equal for each tap all the way around.
Thanks for the info. The voice in my head kept saying turn the hammer around and tap with the handle.
most of the time i have found it to be a slightly bent axle. but all the cheapn wheels seem to have some form of wobble
It's bad machining of the wheel hub that is the cause of the wobble. The freewheel is normally machined true, but the wheel hub sometimes on cheaper makes, has not been placed in the lathe machine correctly.
Freewheel threads on almost any hub are never perfect.
Mr. RJ, our bike has a wobbly back wheel (definitely the hub/axle) and also the plastic disk is broken. I'd like to also change the plastic disk when I fix the axle/bearings or whatever else is causing the wobble. What is the clear plastic disk called? Also, are they universal?
Hey thanks for the tutorial, but if I don't get it repaired and leave it as it is, then what can/will happen to the bike or the rear wheel hub?
I have the same wobble in a vintage bike after repairing other damage to the drive side- bent axle, crunched derailleur- looks like the cup on that side is not in straight. Haven't been able to straighten it out yet.
Definitely interesting! As so many have said... you’re great! Videos are excellent to watch, great simple explanations, great camera angles and lighting, voice is clear with no marbles (or bearings) in the mouth!, and you clearly have great understanding, experience, and care for the subject at hand. Great confidence in your approach that inspires others to not be afraid! Now... all that being said... what tools should I start with to service my ‘88 Schwinn tempo? I’m thinking about the bottom bracket first... the bike doesn’t really show any problems but I’m the original owner and I can’t tell you the last time it was really serviced... it has the Shimano 105 cranks and 105 everything else too lol... thank you for any advice!
Buy tools as you need them. Here are some of the tools I have collected over the years. ruclips.net/video/KBvUIQSmkcA/видео.html
this video was helpful, thank you, I have the same problem with my back wheel, and my front wheel is also messed up, would there be a way I can send you a video to show you what's wrong?
Wel Bike Guy,yhe wobling is made for making the transport between the shifting easier ! This is made especialy from the fabricator,this is no mallfunction !
John
Sorry, but no.
john moonen The same is true for bent rims. They go around obstacles rather than over them making for a smoother ride.
Hey, RJ - thanks for another great video! Can you tell me the make/model of your vice and the max jaw width of it? I've found a similar item in the UK but it comes in three possible max jaw widths (61, 84, 86mm).(I don't think your vice is on the 'Tools' page on your website) Thanks!
It's a drill press vise. www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-jaw-capacity-drill-press-vise-30999.html
Thank you. Your video helped me repair my rear wheel.
Can you please name the tools you used in this video? Thanks.
I was just regreasing my hubs today. On my front wheel one side had 9 bearings and the other side had 10. I got the hub cleaned nice and greased, I put 9 bearings in one side then decided to go out on my porch and put the rest of the bearings in outside, i then proceeded to knock over the cup that had the ball bearings in it and lost 3. I checked Home depot and they had the right size 3/16 but they were charging $1.25 for one ball bearing. I then called Wheel and Sprocket and the service guy told me to head over and he would just give me some ball bearings. I successfully got the bearings reinstalled and put 10 on each side, my wheels feel so much more smoother now considering I've had the bike for about 3yrs and ride it year round including in the snow and slush during winter. (Also I wish i had known that the dust cover was removable, lol, i had to clean the race out with a bunch of q-tips. Well now i know.)
I have the exact same wobble. Overhaul didnt correct issue and its still too much as I use the bike on a smart trainer. Is the bearing race cup typically replaceable? I think Ive narrowed it down to that. The cone was worn badly asymmetrically so it had to be replaced too. Great channel. Thanks.
What happens if the race surface area is worn? can you replace this? or do you need to buy another hub/wheel? Having said that this is a great video and very helpful !!
My bike does the exact same thing and I’m glad I can tell now that it’s probably gonna be a bearing issue. Or even a thread issue. Unfortunately I don’t have any of the tools to do it myself at home. Back to my local bike shop
Thank you so much!! On it now. I have subscribed as you make SO much sense!!
Socket for cog removal? Good video 👍🏽
Perfect video
Been looking for that.
Thank you
wen i put back dust cap i use straight piece of wood to tap in the place :)
How often would you say it's worth servicing hubs? Notice I can wobble my front wheel slightly so I'm going to get some cone spanners and give it a go.
+Kevin P As needed. Or if you buy an old bike, might as well do it so everything is fresh.
On a quick release rear axle how much space would you recommend to leave on the drive side lock nut ?
Great videos as always. Thank you for the uploads.
Ive been looking for a solution for my bike, there seems to be a wobbly back tire and i never noticed it until one of my friends had mentioned it to me, so this video might come in super handy, i have all the tools at my place to fix this problem, so im going to attempt it at home before taking it into any professional.
Make sure it is the hub wobbling and not just the rim out of true.
your a class act!, another great video for a true expert with an exceptional presentation style
What grease should I use for all bearing? Like pedals and hubs. What grease you use?
Hey when I grab my rear brakes my rear wheel jitters and makes a loud noise and I think it's possibly the bearings as when I grab my back wheel and move it back and forth it wobbles a tiny bit
Your videos are outstanding! Thank you!
I have a brand new out of the box 21 speed road bike with a wobble already. Haven’t even ridden it yet. Would this wobble not allow it to go through all the gears? I brought it to a bike shop who adjusted the derailleur and it still won’t go into 6 and 7th gear. He tried to tell me the cassette is probably bad and why it’s wobbling. A wobble on a brand new bike would make it not shift? Doesn’t sound right.
Is the yellow grease when you removing the dust cap still working well?that grease is the axle grease very sticky and good water resistance.
No, they have likely oxidized and may have accumulated dust. Replacing them with brand new lubricant would be more effective.
Very good instructional video to overhaul a hub sometimes when the wheel is wibbly wobbly sometimes the mechanics they will reuse the old ball bearings but the smart thing to do when you overhaul any kind of Hub or bottom bracket or headset always replace with new ball bearings never reused the old ball bearings even if the old ball bearings were nice and shiny and clean if you were to look at the old ball bearings under a microscope you will see that the ball bearings are no longer perfectly round due to the pressure points making contact with metal to metal ball bearings take on the shape of an egg just saying.
Ball bearings are cheap. And as you say, you can't tell how worn they are without expensive equipment.
Now I know someone must have done maintenance on my rear hub and put the warped dust cap on backwards 😮 Are all the wheel bearings the same size for all bikes ?
Good explanation on servicing the hub but it seems the same before and after if you ask me Just like all of my service work on my bikes. I usually lie to myself and say it's a little bit better.
Seriously? Go back and watch the hub before and after!!!
Do you recommend chrome plated steel bearings or stainless steel bearings and what is the difference, I simply do not know. Thanks and great video as they all are very informative
I buy grade 25 bearings hardened steel bearings.
@RJ The Bike Guy what is the prt name of the center of the sprocket called
Hi RJ, I now have two cruisers with coaster brakes, & for some reason both of the hubs come loose at the anchor side after riding just a mile or two..?
Sorry, I can't tell you without working on the bike.
What did you use to clean everything? I've heard of using WD-40, is that good for the parts, or is there some type of solvent made to clean old grease off of bike parts?
Thanks, very useful! I’ve finally managed to fix my bearings and make it smooth. I had to replace my bearing dust cover in the end.
Can I ask, what might be causing the remaining wobble in the video at the end? Might the hub be warped? (Scratch that, I just read the comments).
Manufacturing imperfections or damage in the hub.
our saucers wobble too.
Can you provide a link with all the tools you used on this video?
So is it okay if the gear set wobbles a little bit?
I have this exact problem. I’ll see if I can fix it
If fix in seal bearing will solve the whoble?
9:42 What happens if un muy case there is play there? The axle kinda move quite a bit, And the bearings didnt form a perfect circle
If the bearings don't form an even circle you may have put too many in or used the wrong size.
RJ The Bike Guy ok thanks!
Hello RJ, I have a wobbling rear hub but its weird.
When on bench the cassette and brake disc wobble a lot. More than 1mm both. And the pads rub on the disc offcourse as the disc goes from side to side. But when driving (weight loaded) the pads do not rub at all, and dics and pads seem nicely aligned. And shifting works at least adequately.
Any ideas what going on? Can something be broken? Fortunately I have a used replacement rearwheel, I think I am gonna use that.
What’s size is this cone you’re working with ??
Is lithium grease ok to use for the bike parts?
I use marine grease for most stuff.
Hillo rj the bike guy.what is standard size of cone wrench rear hub..thanks
The one that fits. Usually a 13/14/15/16.
hello RJ the problème may be come from the axis , who is bended ? what do you think ?
+HABIP ERDOGAN Could be this:ruclips.net/video/OI6JxL-zjXc/видео.html
I just got an adult tricycle (worksman folding). So far. The basket came crushed, they replaced it and sent the wrong one. The left rear tire was bent, they sent a new one and it still wobbling, not as much but still not right. We are not bike specialists but was wondering if you could suggest something as to why it still wobbles. This trike was not cheap.
I can't tell you anything without working on the bike. Take it to a shop.
what do you call that big ring hat sits between the freewheel and the spokes?
ruclips.net/video/o9oVJUplaQI/видео.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy thanks
How do you fix the dust cap if it's bent?