►►► Want to fix your lawn for the long haul but don't know where to start? I can help! Click here right now and get started today: turfmech.link/dont-know-where-to-start ◄◄◄
Yes...in Florida I'm finding the same thing. I need more potassium. Did a foliar app a few days ago. And the grass looks so much better. Even greener but I need pounds on the ground. Sop is in my thoughts now. Thanks for the video.
Thanks a lot Chuck! I think it's something casual lawn owners almost never think about (and if I can underapply it even while making all these videos talking about it) it has to be a problem for a lot of dialed in enthusiasts too. I appreciate you watching!
I'm gonna have to try the potassium to help the TTTF recover from the summer. Now that the temps are cooling the water is actually making it to the roots. That alone is making a huge difference. One thing I have discovered in this turf quest is once the soil gets dry it is a real challenge getting it to accept water deeply! Keep the great videos coming. 🙂👍
That's good to hear, we have solidly lower temps now, most days in the 70s and around 50 at night. So much nicer than the middle of July! Having good k it there will definitely help your grass out next summer, this a great time to catch up a bit with a couple more months of easy growth ahead of us. Thanks as always for watching Ray and for all your comments!
I would try to core aerate and rake and inch of compost and peat moss to fill the holes and ammend the soil. It shouldn't be to difficult at all. Especially with compost. Wouldn't hurt to over seed the existing lawn.
I've think I've said this elsewhere. This year my soil test showed that I was very low in sulfur and just a little bit low in potassium. I contacted our local farm fertilizer manufacturer and distributor about what they might be able to supply to help my situation. They had KTS. (Potassium thiosulfate 0-0-25+17S) in liquid form in bulk. The rep said he could give me a 2 1/2 gallon jug for $24. The price seemed reasonable so thats what I got. According to the literature that he provided I would need to apply 1gallon KTS per 10000sqft. I split the jug into two applications of 1 1/4 gallon for my 11000 sqft lawn. I added this to my first application of my own lawn tonic concoction. I also added this year more Blach strap molasses. I dont know what made the difference but holy crap do I ever have a vast improvement in the thickness and color of the lawn. Everyone thought I had the best lawn in town before, two lawn care outfits wanted to buy my lawn for sod last year. I think the added sulfur and molasses helped with the color and the extra potassium might have helped with the thickness of the turf.
I couldn’t find any potash or potassium sulfate at the garden centers. So I picked up down to earth brand langbeinite 0-0-22 and grow more brand “stump remover” (and fertilizer it says) 13-0?-44 potassium nitrate yesterday. My new 2 month old grass needs some fertilizer and my home soil test showed K deficiency. I’m trying to decide which to use… or if to test out one in one section, and another in another section. Also supposedly the langbeinite is water soluble but the product reviews online people had differing options on its solubility. Debating whether to spread as is or dissolve and water in. I did use some ammonium sulfate per your recommendation from prior video…thanks for the recommendation!
“K” is something I’ve tried to put down more this year. My levels were so low they barely registered on soil tests. Did 4lb/1,000 throughout the year and I’m still deficient but my grass looks absolutely amazing compared to other years. 100 degree heat for almost 3 months straight and the grass laughed at it. Going to do another small app if we get a good fall rain (irrigation already off due to drought).
Didnt mention this in the vid but K will leech out readily if applied at too high rates all at once...also if N isn't applied in great enough quantities then the K won't be used efficiently either. This is the reason why I've suggested applying balanced ferts or apply a bit of N with the K can help and spreading it out through the year. Having said that though if you keep at that once I'm sure your soil and grass will perform great in the coming year.
@@TurfMechanic yep to avoid a 40 page comment I left a lot out. I’ve applied the K over 5 apps and only during the 100 degree months was it not down with 3/4 pound of N at the same time. Summer was only about 1/4 N but was also less K. Definitely didn’t just dump 4lb of K at it all at once. In general I try to avoid drastic changes to the lawn since I’m no expert and there’s nothing worse than going from one extreme to another and just wasting product and causing more headaches. Slow and steady for me
Nice to hear you tried it and yeah! You are right. I spread mine out on the lowest setting possible on my spreader and it still came out way fast...just barely covered my whole area! Next time I do it I'll probably mix it in with something to slow it down a bit. Great tip!
I've read that potassium is one of those nutrients where you either have enough or you don't, adding extra if you already have enough doesn't help the grass in any way.
I'd agree mostly with that as well. You need N for the plant to use extra K and the soil can only hold so much K before it starts leeching away. I talk about this a good bit in my recent video on Nitrogen - have a look if you missed it: ruclips.net/video/nW-qj6up6sU/видео.html In this vid I added a sprayable nitrogen fert to the lawn just to get enough N in the lawn for the grass to use the K I added via Langbeinite. Thanks so much for watching and thanks for the insightful comment too!
@@TurfMechanic There is a video discussing some of the results, but in short they saw no difference in turf appearance or disease resistance (immune system) from applying potassium and nitrogen at ratios of 1:0 all the way up to 1:5. The plots where there was no potassium applied performed just as well as the plots where there was heavy potassium applied, including disease resistance (immune system). They actually saw increased snow mold in the plots they put down heavy potassium. One of the plots didn't receive any potassium for two years and there was no noticeable difference to the plots that had potassium put down. This was attributed to the fact that the soil already contained enough potassium to sustain the plant, showing that there was no benefit to adding additional K when the soil already contains adequate amounts. Check out the video talking about the study that was done as well as some of the supporting articles in the video description: ruclips.net/video/1rMM-4XJ5dA/видео.html
Sul- po- mag is what Langbeinite is called here. Compass minerals has many potassium sulphate varieties, one called Protassium plus is very soluble if you wish to blend a liquid and is about a dollar a 500 gm. imported to Canada from California. It is 0-0-50 and goes down at a kilo per 100 sq. meters.
Great point! I actually decided to focus more on potassium this year and have seen a real difference in the hardiness of the lawn especially through the heat and drought this past summer.
Potassium is a fall fertilizer, it promotes deep root growth heavy snow melt *helps to push it deep. Its really wasted any other time of year. * edit from needed to helps
@@charles-y2z6c it does much more than promote deep roots. it also promotes resistance against disease and helps the lawn during periods of heat and drought. I'm curious where you heard heavy snow melt is needed to push it deep?
@@liveyourbestlawn I heard it from Ryan Knorr. He has a lawn channel as well and a seed and fertilizer business. His lawns are absolutely fabulous. No insult intended to this channel, but his are much better. They are putting green quality. I also heard it from a local person named Michael Warren Thomas who does a radio show on lawn and garden.
@@liveyourbestlawn Deep roots are what creates resistance to drought. The deeper roots go to look for water. You can overuse potassium, its best to get a lawn analysis, Potassium is best applied in fall\winter. Fescues have the deepest roots, which is why they are best for dry hot climates. I live along the great lakes and have plenty of water with a cooler climate and prefer rye and blue grass. I also have a putting green lawn, its much easier after the kids have grown up and no longer play soccer on the lawn.
You never have bare or brown spots. That's what's amazing. Everyone has bare spots except for you. I have bare spots, I wonder if sop would help. I ordered diamond k 50 lb bag. Im going to put that down based on this video. 1-2 lb per 1000. Over the last 9 months i put down about 4 lbs of urea per 1000 and neglected K. After watching this video i think the problem is lack of K. What do you think? Your advice is always appreciated. Thanks Brian
I think my biggest mistake I make is rushing to get Spring Fertilizer down and not waiting for my tttFescue to have time to put its roots down from FALL overseeding. MY QUESTION IS: HOW LONG INTO SPRING OR GROUND TEMPS DO WAIT?? (I'm in SW Michigan)
For the typical lawn owner I suggest fertilizing at 55 degree soil temps unless you have a cool season lawn that is thin in the early spring then hitting it in upper 40's with synthetic water soluble fert is helpful...or if you don't want to apply pre-emergent and first firt on the same day dropping natural fertilizer (or milo) in the mid to upper 40's for soil temps not expecting it to work for a few extra weeks while soil microbial life is so sluggish. I like the natural product route because they all add organic matter to the soil and improve soil biology but that's just me. Here's my latest vid on early spring fert which I put out a couple weeks back for more info: ruclips.net/video/F9t2ejuG_qE/видео.html
You touched on a cool topic man- one that I haven’t seen a lot of readily available data on. It’s easy to find research on how much N you should put our per year on your lawn based on your grass type. For instance, I will be putting down 6lbs of N per K next season on my KBG lawn. However, I have absolutely no idea how much P and K I should with it. I want to make a lawn smoothie but it’s hard to do when there appears to only be a standard for N and not for P and K. Thoughts?
I've been using Scotts 4 step program. I add Milo and Ironite occasionally. I roto tilled 30000 sqft of peat moss, and 2 yards of compost into my 2300 sqft lawn. Does very well. Been thinking of adding Andersons DG soil ammendment. What are your thoughts? My aim is to strengthen the root system more and help it be more resilient towards elements and fungus/disease.
I'd love it if you have a Facebook. I'd like to show you mine as well. You're so articulate. Your way of explanation and expression is great my friend. Thank you for what you do as well.
Boom! I'm glad mine made it through too; my ratio was even worse in early July when we were flirting with 100 every day; I made the mistake of assuming I was getting more than I actually was - sometimes you just gotta bust out an excel sheet and calculate it. LOL
I think my saving grace was the multiple applications of Cytokinins, Alfalfa Meal, and Liquid/Core Aeration giving me deeper roots - the non-ferts hep a ton but they only go so far. Law of minimums will always pop up eventually. Thanks for watching Andrey!
Since you think your K is low, you should have done a soil test before you fertilized to see what it actually was before you hit it with your various products.
Sure did, thanks for bringing that up. I did two tests in Feb and I reserved the exact same soil from that time that I'm using on a soil test video later this Fall. It can be hard to get an accurate soil test this time of year because the results are usually skewed by recent applications made. Later this fall I'm doing a video where I compare 5-7 different soil tests with the same soil. For me I knew I started the year low in Potassium so I'm stunned that I didn't focus on keeping the ratio up for this long. I'm human, I messed up but I've been lucky. :D Thanks for watching Furnuggets! Hope to see you in the comments again!
Looks like a 3-1 ratio to me, IMO I would want less P through the year and more K relative to N. I have a whole video on lawn npk ratio where I explain my whole opinion. Give it a watch next time you've got some free time. I really think it's hard to get the ratio right over the course of a whole season. Not trying to be argumentative either I just base my preferred ratio off of university research not experience, lol.
I don't have a general recommendation for that. I recommend CytoGro which you use already so I don't think you need anything else - i like adding the cytokinins in that product. For those that don't go the cytogro route the SeaK product from Greene County is probably fine as is just about any general kelp product. Maybe this spring I'll delve deeply into the different types of kelp in a video but I'll have to do a bit of extra research on packaging of kelp ferts before I start speaking with any sort of well informed opinion.
Haha, yes, I think you and my wife are correct! Scalping the ugly mug is on the agenda for the day 🤣 Thanks for watching Kevin, glad you enjoy my content!
@@TurfMechanic thank you for taking that in the spirit intended. Since you don’t know me or what my wife calls a dorky personality, I was having second thoughts after clicking send! 😂😂😂
Please provide a fact based advice ... which should be...1. Do soil test....2...based on test results, add what is lacking...in amount...guided by results. ..
Good point Farzein; perhaps I should have added a recommendation to do a soil test in this video but doing a soil test mid-season usually results in skewed results. I did two soil tests in February and I knew entering the year that I was starting the year low on potassium...I also did extensive research and published a video in March about the NPK ratio and grass systems needs of NPK on an annual basis. Because of that I know that for steady feeding my target is 8-2-5 year in and year out. Going into this weekend I was at a ratio close to 8-2-3 so I'm confident this catchup app was needed. Thanks for watching, hope to see you in the comments again!
►►► Want to fix your lawn for the long haul but don't know where to start? I can help! Click here right now and get started today: turfmech.link/dont-know-where-to-start ◄◄◄
Yes...in Florida I'm finding the same thing. I need more potassium. Did a foliar app a few days ago. And the grass looks so much better. Even greener but I need pounds on the ground. Sop is in my thoughts now. Thanks for the video.
I'm putting down some 0-0-60 on a 13k sq ft lawn. Soil test suggested 3.75 lbs per 1,000 so bought a 40 lb box and will give a go.
I'm sure of this. You have the best lawncare channel on RUclips. I'm not being nice. I'm being honest.
Thank you so much for the compliments David! Can't be happier to hear things like that, Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family!
I put down 0-0-31 A few times, you also gave me some pointers for my new rye grass seed Im nourishing it with K for next season. Thank you
Was that GreenPhite you applied? I haven't tried that one but it might be a good compliment to my twice a year milo app to keep things balanced.
@@TurfMechanic yes i applied green phite, I also use a 15-0-15 from simple lawn to spoon feed every now and then. My K was extremely low
Great video! Potassium isn’t something people think about. It’s the N, the P, and the Fe. Excellent pointers on boosting the health of the turf
Thanks a lot Chuck! I think it's something casual lawn owners almost never think about (and if I can underapply it even while making all these videos talking about it) it has to be a problem for a lot of dialed in enthusiasts too. I appreciate you watching!
Surprisingly, my soil test showed very high P and K. The Ag Agent recommended pure nitrogen.
I'm gonna have to try the potassium to help the TTTF recover from the summer. Now that the temps are cooling the water is actually making it to the roots. That alone is making a huge difference. One thing I have discovered in this turf quest is once the soil gets dry it is a real challenge getting it to accept water deeply! Keep the great videos coming. 🙂👍
That's good to hear, we have solidly lower temps now, most days in the 70s and around 50 at night. So much nicer than the middle of July! Having good k it there will definitely help your grass out next summer, this a great time to catch up a bit with a couple more months of easy growth ahead of us. Thanks as always for watching Ray and for all your comments!
I would try to core aerate and rake and inch of compost and peat moss to fill the holes and ammend the soil. It shouldn't be to difficult at all. Especially with compost. Wouldn't hurt to over seed the existing lawn.
I've think I've said this elsewhere. This year my soil test showed that I was very low in sulfur and just a little bit low in potassium. I contacted our local farm fertilizer manufacturer and distributor about what they might be able to supply to help my situation. They had KTS. (Potassium thiosulfate 0-0-25+17S) in liquid form in bulk. The rep said he could give me a 2 1/2 gallon jug for $24. The price seemed reasonable so thats what I got. According to the literature that he provided I would need to apply 1gallon KTS per 10000sqft. I split the jug into two applications of 1 1/4 gallon for my 11000 sqft lawn. I added this to my first application of my own lawn tonic concoction. I also added this year more Blach strap molasses. I dont know what made the difference but holy crap do I ever have a vast improvement in the thickness and color of the lawn. Everyone thought I had the best lawn in town before, two lawn care outfits wanted to buy my lawn for sod last year. I think the added sulfur and molasses helped with the color and the extra potassium might have helped with the thickness of the turf.
I just sprayed something similar just the potassium though. And the lawns never looked better. Such a deep green now. I'm sold on potassium.
I couldn’t find any potash or potassium sulfate at the garden centers.
So I picked up down to earth brand langbeinite 0-0-22 and
grow more brand “stump remover” (and fertilizer it says) 13-0?-44 potassium nitrate yesterday.
My new 2 month old grass needs some fertilizer and my home soil test showed K deficiency.
I’m trying to decide which to use… or if to test out one in one section, and another in another section.
Also supposedly the langbeinite is water soluble but the product reviews online people had differing options on its solubility.
Debating whether to spread as is or dissolve and water in.
I did use some ammonium sulfate per your recommendation from prior video…thanks for the recommendation!
Tried SLS 0-0-15 this year for the first time before summer and I was impressed!
Great vid Brian 😃
👊 you talking about the 0-0-25 or the 15-0-15? Either way I haven't tried either product, need to dip my toes into their product line more.
@@TurfMechanic sorry the 0-0-25 lol
Aha! That makes more sense! 👌
“K” is something I’ve tried to put down more this year. My levels were so low they barely registered on soil tests. Did 4lb/1,000 throughout the year and I’m still deficient but my grass looks absolutely amazing compared to other years. 100 degree heat for almost 3 months straight and the grass laughed at it. Going to do another small app if we get a good fall rain (irrigation already off due to drought).
Didnt mention this in the vid but K will leech out readily if applied at too high rates all at once...also if N isn't applied in great enough quantities then the K won't be used efficiently either. This is the reason why I've suggested applying balanced ferts or apply a bit of N with the K can help and spreading it out through the year. Having said that though if you keep at that once I'm sure your soil and grass will perform great in the coming year.
@@TurfMechanic yep to avoid a 40 page comment I left a lot out. I’ve applied the K over 5 apps and only during the 100 degree months was it not down with 3/4 pound of N at the same time. Summer was only about 1/4 N but was also less K. Definitely didn’t just dump 4lb of K at it all at once. In general I try to avoid drastic changes to the lawn since I’m no expert and there’s nothing worse than going from one extreme to another and just wasting product and causing more headaches. Slow and steady for me
Im going to do the same. Good post battle camp fan
I tried Langbeinite earlier this summer and it worked well. Very granular, it needed a carrier.
Nice to hear you tried it and yeah! You are right. I spread mine out on the lowest setting possible on my spreader and it still came out way fast...just barely covered my whole area! Next time I do it I'll probably mix it in with something to slow it down a bit. Great tip!
I've read that potassium is one of those nutrients where you either have enough or you don't, adding extra if you already have enough doesn't help the grass in any way.
I'd agree mostly with that as well. You need N for the plant to use extra K and the soil can only hold so much K before it starts leeching away. I talk about this a good bit in my recent video on Nitrogen - have a look if you missed it: ruclips.net/video/nW-qj6up6sU/видео.html In this vid I added a sprayable nitrogen fert to the lawn just to get enough N in the lawn for the grass to use the K I added via Langbeinite. Thanks so much for watching and thanks for the insightful comment too!
@@TurfMechanic There is a video discussing some of the results, but in short they saw no difference in turf appearance or disease resistance (immune system) from applying potassium and nitrogen at ratios of 1:0 all the way up to 1:5. The plots where there was no potassium applied performed just as well as the plots where there was heavy potassium applied, including disease resistance (immune system). They actually saw increased snow mold in the plots they put down heavy potassium. One of the plots didn't receive any potassium for two years and there was no noticeable difference to the plots that had potassium put down. This was attributed to the fact that the soil already contained enough potassium to sustain the plant, showing that there was no benefit to adding additional K when the soil already contains adequate amounts.
Check out the video talking about the study that was done as well as some of the supporting articles in the video description:
ruclips.net/video/1rMM-4XJ5dA/видео.html
Sul- po- mag is what Langbeinite is called here.
Compass minerals has many potassium sulphate varieties, one called Protassium plus is very soluble if you wish to blend a liquid and is about a dollar a 500 gm. imported to Canada from California.
It is 0-0-50 and goes down at a kilo per 100 sq. meters.
Great point! I actually decided to focus more on potassium this year and have seen a real difference in the hardiness of the lawn especially through the heat and drought this past summer.
Potassium is a fall fertilizer, it promotes deep root growth heavy snow melt *helps to push it deep. Its really wasted any other time of year.
* edit from needed to helps
@@charles-y2z6c it does much more than promote deep roots. it also promotes resistance against disease and helps the lawn during periods of heat and drought. I'm curious where you heard heavy snow melt is needed to push it deep?
@@liveyourbestlawn I heard it from Ryan Knorr. He has a lawn channel as well and a seed and fertilizer business. His lawns are absolutely fabulous. No insult intended to this channel, but his are much better. They are putting green quality. I also heard it from a local person named Michael Warren Thomas who does a radio show on lawn and garden.
@@liveyourbestlawn Deep roots are what creates resistance to drought. The deeper roots go to look for water. You can overuse potassium, its best to get a lawn analysis, Potassium is best applied in fall\winter. Fescues have the deepest roots, which is why they are best for dry hot climates. I live along the great lakes and have plenty of water with a cooler climate and prefer rye and blue grass. I also have a putting green lawn, its much easier after the kids have grown up and no longer play soccer on the lawn.
You never have bare or brown spots. That's what's amazing. Everyone has bare spots except for you.
I have bare spots, I wonder if sop would help. I ordered diamond k 50 lb bag. Im going to put that down based on this video. 1-2 lb per 1000.
Over the last 9 months i put down about 4 lbs of urea per 1000 and neglected K.
After watching this video i think the problem is lack of K. What do you think? Your advice is always appreciated. Thanks Brian
I think my biggest mistake I make is rushing to get Spring Fertilizer down and not waiting for my tttFescue to have time to put its roots down from FALL overseeding. MY QUESTION IS: HOW LONG INTO SPRING OR GROUND TEMPS DO WAIT?? (I'm in SW Michigan)
For the typical lawn owner I suggest fertilizing at 55 degree soil temps unless you have a cool season lawn that is thin in the early spring then hitting it in upper 40's with synthetic water soluble fert is helpful...or if you don't want to apply pre-emergent and first firt on the same day dropping natural fertilizer (or milo) in the mid to upper 40's for soil temps not expecting it to work for a few extra weeks while soil microbial life is so sluggish. I like the natural product route because they all add organic matter to the soil and improve soil biology but that's just me. Here's my latest vid on early spring fert which I put out a couple weeks back for more info: ruclips.net/video/F9t2ejuG_qE/видео.html
I'm hoping my grass revives. It had a fungus that I thought was drought until it appeared on other parts. Now I got a lot of brown spots
Thanks for the great content Brian! Once again sharing all the details we might need too
Thanks so much Anthony! Always excited to make videos that resonate with you and other viewers. Thanks for watching!
You touched on a cool topic man- one that I haven’t seen a lot of readily available data on.
It’s easy to find research on how much N you should put our per year on your lawn based on your grass type. For instance, I will be putting down 6lbs of N per K next season on my KBG lawn. However, I have absolutely no idea how much P and K I should with it.
I want to make a lawn smoothie but it’s hard to do when there appears to only be a standard for N and not for P and K. Thoughts?
I've been using Scotts 4 step program. I add Milo and Ironite occasionally. I roto tilled 30000 sqft of peat moss, and 2 yards of compost into my 2300 sqft lawn. Does very well. Been thinking of adding Andersons DG soil ammendment. What are your thoughts? My aim is to strengthen the root system more and help it be more resilient towards elements and fungus/disease.
I'd love it if you have a Facebook. I'd like to show you mine as well. You're so articulate. Your way of explanation and expression is great my friend. Thank you for what you do as well.
I put some high potassium fertilizer down over the summer. The fescue sailed right through all the heat.
Also do the same to get through the heat period well using kinda cocktail adding to potassium some humic acid and sea kelp. For my KBG works great!
Boom! I'm glad mine made it through too; my ratio was even worse in early July when we were flirting with 100 every day; I made the mistake of assuming I was getting more than I actually was - sometimes you just gotta bust out an excel sheet and calculate it. LOL
I think my saving grace was the multiple applications of Cytokinins, Alfalfa Meal, and Liquid/Core Aeration giving me deeper roots - the non-ferts hep a ton but they only go so far. Law of minimums will always pop up eventually. Thanks for watching Andrey!
I need a soil test but will wait until spring, until then I’m gonna give er one more how ya doin in a couple weeks with some NPK and humic12.
Haha, always fun to throw down, enjoy the fall out in the lawn Josh!
I bought a group pack from yard mastery after using your link for the sop. Hope you get a little boost/credit somehow, Brian!
It'll probably trickle down, thanks pd 👊
@@TurfMechanic 👍💪
I like to use greens grade 0-0-50.
Since you think your K is low, you should have done a soil test before you fertilized to see what it actually was before you hit it with your various products.
Sure did, thanks for bringing that up. I did two tests in Feb and I reserved the exact same soil from that time that I'm using on a soil test video later this Fall. It can be hard to get an accurate soil test this time of year because the results are usually skewed by recent applications made. Later this fall I'm doing a video where I compare 5-7 different soil tests with the same soil. For me I knew I started the year low in Potassium so I'm stunned that I didn't focus on keeping the ratio up for this long. I'm human, I messed up but I've been lucky. :D Thanks for watching Furnuggets! Hope to see you in the comments again!
15-6-6 all "growing seasons" granular then 32-10-10 liquid boost every so often. Occasional bio boost
Looks like a 3-1 ratio to me, IMO I would want less P through the year and more K relative to N. I have a whole video on lawn npk ratio where I explain my whole opinion. Give it a watch next time you've got some free time. I really think it's hard to get the ratio right over the course of a whole season. Not trying to be argumentative either I just base my preferred ratio off of university research not experience, lol.
Hey brian, which general sea kelp do you recommend. I got the cytogrow. I was wondering if there was a general sea kelp you recommend. Yy
I don't have a general recommendation for that. I recommend CytoGro which you use already so I don't think you need anything else - i like adding the cytokinins in that product. For those that don't go the cytogro route the SeaK product from Greene County is probably fine as is just about any general kelp product. Maybe this spring I'll delve deeply into the different types of kelp in a video but I'll have to do a bit of extra research on packaging of kelp ferts before I start speaking with any sort of well informed opinion.
@@TurfMechanic thank you Brian
What about a 13-13-13. Wd that work
Yeah that would work just fine especially if you had low phosphorus levels in the soil too.
As an expert in the field, I think you’ve put too much N on your face, and it needs to be scalped. 😂
I enjoy your videos, thank you! 👍
Haha, yes, I think you and my wife are correct! Scalping the ugly mug is on the agenda for the day 🤣 Thanks for watching Kevin, glad you enjoy my content!
@@TurfMechanic thank you for taking that in the spirit intended. Since you don’t know me or what my wife calls a dorky personality, I was having second thoughts after clicking send! 😂😂😂
We're on the same page ☺ ive been known to have a sense of humor that makes eyes roll from time to time too lol
7:00
6:45
Please provide a fact based advice ... which should be...1. Do soil test....2...based on test results, add what is lacking...in amount...guided by results. ..
Good point Farzein; perhaps I should have added a recommendation to do a soil test in this video but doing a soil test mid-season usually results in skewed results. I did two soil tests in February and I knew entering the year that I was starting the year low on potassium...I also did extensive research and published a video in March about the NPK ratio and grass systems needs of NPK on an annual basis. Because of that I know that for steady feeding my target is 8-2-5 year in and year out. Going into this weekend I was at a ratio close to 8-2-3 so I'm confident this catchup app was needed. Thanks for watching, hope to see you in the comments again!