How to replace the seal and impeller on Hayward Super Pump II
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2020
- Crystal Blue Pools St. Croix VI How to replace the seal and impeller on Hayward Super Pump II. Frankie shows you how. Disclaimer: Always refer to your equipment's documentation and consult a professional when in doubt to avoid bodily injury or damage to your pool equipment.
Thank you so much! It took me 20 minutes to fix my pump, I wouldn’t have figure it out alone.
Awesome! Happy to hear our video helped you and thank you for telling us about your success.
FINALLY!, A Video that actually shows where the Housing Gasket is located!! Thank you!!!
Glad it helped
Great video, saved me from forgetting something in the process. Many thanks!
You’re welcome. Glad we could help.
This was the only video that showed a clear angle of where the flat O ring went into the pump assembly. I was going nuts trying to find it. Thank you for doing it right!
Thank you! Happy to hear our video helped you get your pool pump by up and running.
This video saved me today out in the field! Thanks
Awesome, glad to hear it!
You just saved my afternoon!! I was surely about to be here for HOURS!!!
Awesome! Glad to have saved you an afternoon! Thanks for sharing your success with us.
Helped me out alot, u forgot to insert the white coupling on the impeller other than that great video, my pool guy insisted i needed a new pump but replaced everything u showing on the video saved me $500👍
That’s awesome! Sorry about the impeller ring some how we lost that part of the video. I’ll have to update when I can. Always keep an eye out for new leaks after seal repair. Glad you were able to save a tidy sum, while solving the problem. 👍Nice job!
Thanks for the video. Just had the 1 1/2 hp motor on my Hayward pool pump rust out on the bottom locking it up and need to replace it. The wet end of the pump works fine and just replacing the motor and seals will cost less than half of what a complete unit is going for. The video is a great help to plan what is needed for the job.
Glad our video helped you! Thanks for your comment.
Best video I have seen yet
Thank you for the awesome comment!
Thank, it helps a lot!
Great video. Thank you for posting!
Thank you, glad it helped you.
Excellent video! Thank you very much.
Glad the video helped you!
It's been 4yrs since I did this service with new motor and this video is helpfull for anyone. Was gonna purchase a new cheap pump online but I think I'll replace the seals again instead as water is leaking out the bottom?...Great Video Thanks
Thank you, I’m glad our video helped you.
Best video I have seen
Thank you!
Nice video!
I would only add for the DIY and new pool techs to TRIPLE CHECK that the housing gasket is fully seated all the way around. In your case here you have excellent access to see the housing. Mostly we work from the other side of the pump.
A common mistake is closing the housing when the gasket isn't fully seated, usually because a small piece of debris got behind it. That causes the gasket to fold over when tightening the bolts.
Once the pump starts to prime, people see the leak and decide the bolts aren't tight enough.
So they crank down hard on them. This breaks loose the metal inserts molded intro the pump housing, and they will just spin freely. This renders the bolt unable to tighten to the housing.
When this happens, the insert(s) needs to be replaced, and it can be tricky to get the new ones in straight.
I've been working on pool equipment for many years and I've seen this scenario at least a few dozen times.
Yes, both the housing and diffuser gaskets must be mounted properly or there will be problems. If you have a leak after repair, re-check the gaskets, seal, and the housing for warping due to over heating. Over-tightening bolts may compound your problems. Bolts should be snug plus an 1/8 is what I’ve read somewhere, all the Hayward Super Pump manual says is alternately and evenly..
Haven’t had the inserts pull out before. Is there any easy way to fix that?
@@stxlocal535 There are replacement inserts available, (SP 1600 TAP) about $25/set of 2.
You have to yank the old ones out, and the new ones have a self tapping screw thread to go into the hole where the old ones were.
It's not too difficult, but you have to make sure the new ones are going in exactly straight.
Cool, did not know that! Cheaper than replacing pump housing. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks good tip.
What size wrench are you using here? I have trying to get access to the impeller in the back but from the top. The shaft just seems round. There doesn’t seem to be anything to latch onto on mine. I have a UST1152 1.5hp motor. Century I think
Great video, really appreciate you.
Thanks, glad it helped you.
Great video I watched 3 or 4 others and they were touching the ceramic seal with determination and i have watched several techs replace seals and the one thing each one stressed was DONT TOUCH THE CERAMIC WHITE SEAL.
Thanks. Yes, I tried to stress that in the video. The oils from your skin and or the lube can damage the ceramic and cause it to fail.
I'm not sure how or why that advice got started.
I've replaced several hundred seals working as a pool tech for the last 28 years, and have never been concerned about touching the ceramic.
If it was an issue, you'd have to be equally careful to not touch the carbon ring that rides against the ceramic. I've never had a problem.
It’s in the seal manufacturer’s instructions. It states that the seal should remain packed until ready to be installed, have a clean work surface so no dirt or particles can get on it and not to touch the ceramic, so oils from your hand don’t get on the surface. They state that small particles and oils from your fingers can cause premature failure of the seal. I don’t recall stressing it in the video, but we hold the seal by the rubber only when applying lube.
Nice tutorial. Thanks
You’re welcome, glad it helped you.
Fabulous, magic lube - its good stuff
Thanks you help a lot thanks 🙏
You’re welcome! Glad our video helped you.
Great video. Is that white plastic impeller ring guide necessary between the impeller in and infuser? Thanks.
Thanks. The white impeller ring is part of the Super Pump II. It may be there to help the impeller from wobbling.
Thank you for your quick reply. I researched and found out it reduces the radial/ axial loads/ vibrations over time thus extending life of pump, just like you said. Reason why I asked was because I forgot to put it back when I swapped out motor yesterday. Went back in this am and put it back thanks to your awesome video. Thanks, my man!!! ✌🏻
@@tlc8865 You’re welcome. Glad the video helped you.
Dan I’m trying to put up a video about a minute long on how you can grab the shaft if you don’t have the right tool like you did with a pair of giant channel locks I’m attempting to put that video up thank you for your video
It’s recommended in the manual to use a 7/16 open ended wrench to steady the shaft for impeller removal. There are many parts easily damaged near the shaft, which may cause an electrical fire or motor failure.
I used a rubber strap wrench worked great
Best step by step. 👍
Glad we could help you.
is there a parts kit or list available? thanks for the Great video.
Yes, you can give us a call to order one at 340-513-2957. Glad the video was helpful.
I would have loved to see that pipe wrench. I need that!
You can get one at Ace hardware. I’ll put a photo up when I get a chance.
Large angle pliers or "channel locks"
Oil Filter/ PVC Pliers, the ones i have are made by Channel Lock. They work great for unions, male adapters & stuck impeller removal.
I use a rubber strap wrench, it can go right on the impeller without any concerns of damaging it.
Do you know if the Hayward Tristar would be similar to this?
I don’t know. You could find out by searching for the manual of the motor.
Can I use grease around the stationary seal
I was taught only to use Magic Lube which is a PTFE Lubricant/Sealant.
What size wrench to hold the shaft in place??
7/16
What if the housing doesn’t come off the motor then what do you do
If you’ve removed the Impeller, the top part of the housing should come off by hand. Sorry for the delay, as I don’t get push notifications from RUclips. If you are still having this problem you can call Crystal Blue at 340-513-2957
What is the part number for the ceramic seal? I have the Hayward 6060 booster pump. Thank you
Sorry I don’t know the Hayward 6060. Just enter the make and model of the pump and type seal at the end in the Google search bar and it should tell you. Or download the pump manual and check the exploded parts view.
Can I use PB Blaster silicone spray on the seal?
@@chrisconner2981 No it must be a PTFE lube.
@@stxlocal535 Well after about 3 -4 hours of searching on the interweb I found a seal kit and took your advice and fixed her up! Thank you and if anyone ever has a question on the Hayward 6060 booster pump I would be happy to help. The impeller has a slot that I used a wrench handle as a tool to put in the slot and remove it. I was lucky to remember my dad doing that on something when I was a kid watching him.
@@chrisconner2981 Glad to hear you were able to get the pump fixed up and running!
Wedging a wrench into the shaft to remove your impeller is a bad idea!!!
No wedging required. On the AO Smith UST series motor, there is a 7/16 in nut on the end of the shaft used to stabilize the shaft, allowing you to remove the impeller. Accessing it is a careful procedure and you must stay away from or discharge the capacitor.
The motor is designed for this, there are parallel flat sides on the shaft for a 7/16 wrench. It does require some trial and error to get the angle correct, but once it's on it works well. To remove the impeller I use a rubber strap wrench, better than what was shown in the video as it can go directly on the impeller with no damage.