The good thing about this speaker is that it comes with passive crossover for the midrange and tweeter. This make it relatively easy to replace the electronics with generic class-D amp modules. If it came with full DSP/electronic crossover (as in later versions) then it would be a lot harder.
Thanks for the video, Andy.I had a similar experience with a friend's Sony Bluetooth subwoofer. The little 3.3V DC-DC buck regulator had gone faulty. I replaced the chip ok and the 3.3V was fine, but sadly when it went it took the Bluetooth module and sound processor with it. I'm currently converting it to an analogue subwoofer with a sino-tat* class-D amp and a homebrew low-pass filter. *My name for "cheap Chinesium"
Got one of these to look at but my ex let the kids poke their fingers in the tweeter. Tried to pull dent with hot glue but then diaphragm became unglued from the suspension membrane, this destroyed the voice coil. Spent an hour trying to separate the diaphragm only to discover the coil was now broken but spare ones are available from ali ex for around €15. 25.9mm diameter of vc. Well, if this one has all that damage I will retro fit a Bluetooth amplifier. There is one available with 2 main outs, a subwoofer output with level and frequency and bass and treble for the main outs. 200W in total.
Good effort, a real shame it didn't work out. And it would be a very interesting project to try and get it going with that Chinese control board, especially if you could add in a Bluetooth module. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Thanks, I’ve had an early Zeppelin in pieces awaiting some action for a few years now - similar symptoms with blown supply plus the FETS on ch1 of the amp board blown to bits - both the 25V and 5V fuses on the PSU board toast which was going to be my first port of call before even thinking of tackling the amp etc - but after what you’ve found I’m inclined to try the amp transplant - useful to know it has 3 channels as the amp seems to have 4 channels with the sub being bridged somehow from the left and right as it passes back up to the outputs 🤔 Could be interesting 🤨
The good thing about this speaker is that it comes with passive crossover for the midrange and tweeter. This make it relatively easy to replace the electronics with generic class-D amp modules. If it came with full DSP/electronic crossover (as in later versions) then it would be a lot harder.
Hi Andy, been here done that many times, hence why they changed the design quite early in production. good video again Buddy
Thanks for the video, Andy.I had a similar experience with a friend's Sony Bluetooth subwoofer. The little 3.3V DC-DC buck regulator had gone faulty. I replaced the chip ok and the 3.3V was fine, but sadly when it went it took the Bluetooth module and sound processor with it. I'm currently converting it to an analogue subwoofer with a sino-tat* class-D amp and a homebrew low-pass filter.
*My name for "cheap Chinesium"
Got one of these to look at but my ex let the kids poke their fingers in the tweeter. Tried to pull dent with hot glue but then diaphragm became unglued from the suspension membrane, this destroyed the voice coil. Spent an hour trying to separate the diaphragm only to discover the coil was now broken but spare ones are available from ali ex for around €15. 25.9mm diameter of vc.
Well, if this one has all that damage I will retro fit a Bluetooth amplifier. There is one available with 2 main outs, a subwoofer output with level and frequency and bass and treble for the main outs. 200W in total.
There might be something in that idea ruclips.net/video/dLjy2IWxZhg/видео.html 😂
Good effort, a real shame it didn't work out. And it would be a very interesting project to try and get it going with that Chinese control board, especially if you could add in a Bluetooth module. Thanks for sharing! 👍
That board already has Bluetooth!
Excellent! Really quite excited for this project... cheers Andy 👍@@AndyDoz
Thanks, I’ve had an early Zeppelin in pieces awaiting some action for a few years now - similar symptoms with blown supply plus the FETS on ch1 of the amp board blown to bits - both the 25V and 5V fuses on the PSU board toast which was going to be my first port of call before even thinking of tackling the amp etc - but after what you’ve found I’m inclined to try the amp transplant - useful to know it has 3 channels as the amp seems to have 4 channels with the sub being bridged somehow from the left and right as it passes back up to the outputs 🤔 Could be interesting 🤨
the later ones aren't much better. An overload in the amp can make the SMPSU board explode.
Hi Andy, did you make any progress in that retrofit-project with that different amplifier? Best greetings 🙂
Not as yet ... hopefully in the next few weeks..