It really depends on the resin, your environment, and your personal tolerance. None of these are labeled as a respiratory hazard. Always read the label and work in a well-ventilated area.
Your project is insane, I watch your videos and I am sure you will succeed and make a real life Iron Man suit. I had some ideas for improvements you could add to make it so the suit will be even more accurate. 1. About the object detection on your helmet, I think you should limit the program so it always shows you only one display at a time, and with a delay of at least 3 or 5 seconds until it switches to the next object so you'll get less spam and it would look more like the Iron Man display. 2. Try and use OpenAI APIs to create your very own J.A.R.V.I.S. you can use Whisper (the openAI) for speech-to-text, and then have it send the text to GPT-4. 3. If you have 1,000$ to spare, you can by the CROWN by Neurosity, it has an API and it can be trained to recognize thought patterns, using this you could even make the suit pseudo-telepathic. 4. If you can somehow calculate the direction your hand is pointed at you could add a targeting system to your head display. What do you think about these ideas?
Absolutely! Given the size and ease of use, it's fantastic. It also auto homes instead of having to be reset. Just an easy experience compared to others I've used.
Chris, I have enjoyed your videos, they have been very helpful in getting everything working properly on my Ender 5 Plus with a Silent motherboard. The problem that I have has been power loss when I'm not at the printer. Last night after printing for 15 hours of a 23 hour print the power went out. I do have a UPS (the fourth one that I have bought) for this system but they all will drop power during the relay switch over and this takes the printer out of print and asks if I want to continue printing. I woke up about 12:30 AM and checked Octoprint and saw it was not moving. I tried to resume printing, but the plate was cold and it moved. I live way out in the country and power losses are common. I need to add either a large 24 volt farad capacitor or a battery between the 24v battery and the motherboard. Have you tried this, what did you use, or did you find a true UPS that doesn't glitch when there is a power loss? Thanks in advance. Jim Altmiller
I wonder 1 thing. If you want to use gloves below would it be worth to sew the finger to it? But then maybe need to change the split line of the to main parts to get the fingers in …. Just my thoughts on it.
so which suit are you making. the mk7, mk3, mk6. it has to be one of the original ones since the helmet you made is from that style of suit but i need to know which one it will be.
I'd have to get it approved by Do3D and then come up with a price. Given time and materials it may be $100 for a pair. If you're still interested, email me. My address is in the description.
Sorry if I missed them once. I do my best to always wear them where appropriate. For what it's worth, they're not uncured, just not final cured. They were cleaned, so it's not like resin is going to fly off. 😁
@@kerseyfabs no worries! Just giving you a hard time. The lab manager in me jumps out at times. Resin looks great! I’ve been doing the Walsh two piece hands with tree supports. So far great results
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I've added a bunch of links in the description to help you find the tools I used in this video. If I missed something, let me know!
5:00 and a Respirator!!
It really depends on the resin, your environment, and your personal tolerance. None of these are labeled as a respiratory hazard. Always read the label and work in a well-ventilated area.
Fantastic work sir.
Thank you!
Your project is insane, I watch your videos and I am sure you will succeed and make a real life Iron Man suit. I had some ideas for improvements you could add to make it so the suit will be even more accurate.
1. About the object detection on your helmet, I think you should limit the program so it always shows you only one display at a time, and with a delay of at least 3 or 5 seconds until it switches to the next object so you'll get less spam and it would look more like the Iron Man display.
2. Try and use OpenAI APIs to create your very own J.A.R.V.I.S. you can use Whisper (the openAI) for speech-to-text, and then have it send the text to GPT-4.
3. If you have 1,000$ to spare, you can by the CROWN by Neurosity, it has an API and it can be trained to recognize thought patterns, using this you could even make the suit pseudo-telepathic.
4. If you can somehow calculate the direction your hand is pointed at you could add a targeting system to your head display.
What do you think about these ideas?
Wow
I'm guessing then that printer comes with the Kersey seal of approval. Is it worth the cost of the machine for the results you're getting?
Absolutely! Given the size and ease of use, it's fantastic. It also auto homes instead of having to be reset. Just an easy experience compared to others I've used.
Looks great Kris
Thanks! 👍
Where is the 3d document? I want to try it myself.
Always great to get a free printer to play with
True! It's nice to have channel sponsors that help make creating these videos more affordable.
Great series, thanks!
Thanks!
Chris,
I have enjoyed your videos, they have been very helpful in getting everything working properly on my Ender 5 Plus with a Silent motherboard.
The problem that I have has been power loss when I'm not at the printer. Last night after printing for 15 hours of a 23 hour print the power went out. I do have a UPS (the fourth one that I have bought) for this system but they all will drop power during the relay switch over and this takes the printer out of print and asks if I want to continue printing. I woke up about 12:30 AM and checked Octoprint and saw it was not moving. I tried to resume printing, but the plate was cold and it moved. I live way out in the country and power losses are common.
I need to add either a large 24 volt farad capacitor or a battery between the 24v battery and the motherboard. Have you tried this, what did you use, or did you find a true UPS that doesn't glitch when there is a power loss?
Thanks in advance.
Jim Altmiller
I wonder 1 thing. If you want to use gloves below would it be worth to sew the finger to it? But then maybe need to change the split line of the to main parts to get the fingers in …. Just my thoughts on it.
so which suit are you making. the mk7, mk3, mk6. it has to be one of the original ones since the helmet you made is from that style of suit but i need to know which one it will be.
I'm building the MK3 to start things off!
@@kerseyfabs nice. I love that suit. I made a mk7 so I was curious.
Hi Kris would you be willing to sale a pair of this gauntlets?
I'd have to get it approved by Do3D and then come up with a price. Given time and materials it may be $100 for a pair. If you're still interested, email me. My address is in the description.
hmmm insteed of printing connectors with very expensive elastic resin...just gram some charcoal and rub hands xD
Well there's that too. 😆
I cringed a little watching you blow air on the uncured parts without your safety glasses!
Sorry if I missed them once. I do my best to always wear them where appropriate. For what it's worth, they're not uncured, just not final cured. They were cleaned, so it's not like resin is going to fly off. 😁
@@kerseyfabs no worries! Just giving you a hard time. The lab manager in me jumps out at times. Resin looks great! I’ve been doing the Walsh two piece hands with tree supports. So far great results
@@WhereNerdyisCool No problem. How are you connecting the two sides of the Walsh gauntlet?
@@kerseyfabs I haven’t sorted that out yet! Right. Ow I’m trying not to cut off the web of my fingers each time to snap them together!
Understood. I'd love to see it if you find a good way to get them put on and secured.