I was gifted one of these by a couple who were moving and decided not to take it. They had inherited it and no one sewed. I'm so grateful to have gotten all the doo-dads and cams, etc. with it. I love your reviews and advice on these wonderful machines. Thank you.
I have recently discovered the joys of the series 158 Kenmore, and now have two! One is the model 15250, and the other is a 13470. As soon as I got them, I tested them then cleaned and oiled them. They are as you say, perfect!
Congratulations. Now that you’ve got two perfect machines, you can dedicate the rest of your life to other worthwhile causes. Feel free to join me in my quest for the perfect cup of coffee, and the tastiest maple cream stick.(aka eclair) 😂👍😎
I sewed on a kenmore 158 for 25 years and passed it to my niece when I bought a computerized Janome. She divorced shortly after and her ex threw out her belongings before she had a chance to stop him. I hope it ended up with someone who loved it. Now I bought my granddaughter a beginner “mechanical” sewing machine by Janome that reminds me of this Kenmore. So happy to hear all the glowing reports on this machine. It served me well!
I inherited my Moms 158.16700 that I learned on as a kid. Always loved its mechanical sounds. Now that I know its a very good heirloom quality machine ill be sure to pass it on to a sewer when it comes time. Thank you for sharing your knowledge so I can keep my machine in tip top shape!
I love the terms of endearment! Giblets and Mr Flashlight. 😂😂😂😂 I have a 17033 model and I have all the cams and feet with it. I got mine from a thrift store. It’s such a NICE machine and I am so glad I listened to your channel who speaks so highly of these machines!
I have this machine and it is fabulous - my favorite (of MANY) vintage sewing machines I own. The 158.1941 is always said to be the best Kenmore there is, but this is exactly the same machine PLUS it takes cams. Yes, it is better than the 1941! If you're lucky enough to have this machine and all the SHS feet and accessories with it, you've got a treasure. There is literally nothing you'd sew on a domestic machine that this can't handle.
You have stated perfectly what I would like to say myself, and have tried on many occasions. You put it eloquently and succinctly. Thanks for watching and taking the time to add an awesome comment. 😎👍🏼
I've been sewing on 158 machines since they were brand new (back in the 70s). I currently own a 1931 and a 19410. One of the tricks I've used to keep my thread from launching off the machine is a plastic drinking straw cut in half that I place over the spool holder. It gives it a little extra height and keeps that spool where it should be. Best machines ever made. Well, maybe with the exception of my Singer 201.
That’s a good way to solve that problem. I’ve seen some of my customers using that technique and it sure helps, especially when you’re sewing at high speed. Clever solution to the issue. 😎👍🏼
One of the many vintage Kenmores I've had came with an extra long spool pin (never seen one before, but there it was.). I love it because not only can it hold the taller spools but also it keeps the spools from flying off when you're winding a bobbin.
@@lisalu910 Having launched many spools of thread, especially when winding a bobbin at high speed, I can appreciate all the tips to keep that from happening. I guess I could wind at a slower speed, but where’s the thrill and challenge in that? 😂😎👍🏼
I have this machine, found on Marketplace for $75. Came with the table, cams, monograms, buttonholer, feet. The whole gadanza. LOVE it. Had one in the 1970's, replaced it with a low end Janome. Should have had it oiled instead. Been sewing over 50 years, this is the best domestic I've ever had. Yes, I have the touted Singer 201-2 as well. Plus a few more. The Singer sews a pretty stitch, but it's limited. I"m going to go hug my machine now.
What a great video. Thank you. I have one of these. I got lucky with mine. It looks like it was never used. The only thing that needed any work was the feed dog drop mechanism that was gummed up. That was solved with penetrating oil, and moving the mechanism about two million times and it suddenly freed up. Fabulous machine.
Randy, I went to the metal recycling scrap yard this morning, to get a piece of banding strap to fab' out a bobbin door catch on my White 734 free arm. I came home with a 158.19130 ($6, scrap price) There was 3 Kenmores there, one of which was a Model 90 (158.904) The '1913 didnt have a foot control. It uses the plug with the pin spacing like this : ** * , to which I know I have one like that,, or so it seems The receptacle on the machine has a metal shroud around it, and there is a barb that rises forth from this shroud. It interferes by not allowing the pedal plugs (I have) to fully engage on the 3 pins.😮 Its a loosey-goosey fit, pops off easily. Did the 158.1913's have a special pedal cord plug that accepts this barb? . At any rate, I cleaned & lubed this 1913, and fired it up and it is FAST running. I cant believe someone scrapped this machine for a lousey $5. smh. There was a German Phoenix machine there too. seized/rusted....too bad.
I see them all the time where people have no idea of their value. I have “the kids “ call me on occasion and say they have to empty out Moms house because they are listing it. They say come get these machines or we’re putting them on the curb. Sometimes they’re caring enough to send me a couple pictures, but not always. Sometimes the machines are gems, sometimes not. They are interested in the big money for the house, and they overlook the hundreds of $ value in the machines. Oh well, time marches on. I don’t know what to tell you about the wiring question.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 In regards to the " barb " on the machine-side receptacle, I guess I will heat up a nail, and melt a clearance channel on the (** *) 3 pin pedal plug. .
I like these a lot. I did install a stiffer spring at the top of the needle bar to tighten things up a bit, as mine was giving a pretty drunken straighr stitch. Stiffer spring solved that nicely. I do think the 1756 is a superior machine, but it's also a flatbed which is a dealbreaker for some people.
I personally have a soft spot for my 1914. It's got that strong motor, but also the heavier needle bar and innards when compared to my 1940. The 40, however...she is just a beautiful sew. I've never owned a machine that was so well balanced. I guess I love all my Kennies, and I have a few.
That's a beautiful machine--it doesn't have signs of wear & tear so it was obviously neglected! I still think the modifier settings are confusing. I like the Ultra 8 Stitch model with the stitch length knob on the side better.
As a mechanic, there are certain things about machines that I like that as a sewing enthusiast would be different. There are some that have more ergonomic features that favor some folks tastes over others. I certainly understand and support your choice, as that Ultra 8 is a great machine also. 😎👍🏼
I've had this sewing machine since it was new in 1974 and it was used for my and my children's garments, plus curtains, slipcovers, quilting, everything! I did not know that it had such a following until I watched a video on maintenance. I now use a Viking for my quilting that my sis gave me a few years back. It's okay, but only because it has a good needle threader, up-down needle position and speed adjustment. I still love my Kenmore and wonder if you know how to get a part for it? The last thread guide that you show in the video is one that broke off years ago (a child who thought he was a tailor I guess) and it is not one that shows up in the manual. Maybe you know how I could replace it. Thanks for the video. I realize that I haven't been threading the bobbin winder properly. Learn something new every day!
I just checked eBay and there’s numerous thread guides available there. I searched as : “thread guide Kenmore for sale”, and they popped up on eBay. 😎👍🏼
I have this machine. I picked it up for $30. Wasn't anything wrong with it other than the feed dogs didn't want to drop. Got them working and it had a jam up with the thread. Got that cleared out and it's working great. Got it oiled. I think it's sat definitely out of the sun. I don't think it was used much didn't have the cam 20 but I was able to get a 3D printed version
That’s what usually happens when you get one of these gems. A little attention to the oiling and cleaning, and away it goes. Success! Thanks for relating your positive experience with this 158. Series platform. They’re unbeatable. 😎👍🏼
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I'd actually inherited my first Kenmore sewing machine and since then I've picked up five more including a 3/4 machine. None of them have ever needed much attention but this one the 17 600 is my favorite
Do you have a video showing how to open the undercarriage? I want to check the grease behind the bobbin case. Many thanks! Bought one a couple of months ago. It's everything you say, and more. I had one new in the late 1970's, thought I was trading up in 1993 to a Janome. In retrospect my Kenny just needed a tuneup.
Without looking, I can tell you that the grease is fine. The gear box has a gasket seal and the grease is good stuff, not the white lithium grease that turns to glue. Put a drop of oil on every metal mechanism that rotates, slides, hinges, or pivots and you’ll be fine. 😎👍
Randy, great video! I picked up a 158-1602 that unfortunately someone tried to repair and shouldn't have -- I repaired all but the upper cam followers -- they have the thin, light return springs out of order -- are there pictures or repair literature I could find? Thank you!
All I know is what you might get on RUclips. You’ve put penetrating oil and worked those followers and they won’t spring back ? I don’t know what to tell you if someone has cobbled things up.
Thanks Randy -- no, its obvious the tension rest on the follower is incorrect. It's amazing that with millions of the Kenmore's made there are no expanded parts manuals or actual service manuals hiding somewhere! I know service parts have not been available for years but parts drawings show where parts are configured.
@@tomtokar7640 those service manuals are somewhere in an old file cabinet in a basement in Chicago. If Columbo was available, we could get him on the job of finding them. But for now, we’re stuck with good old RUclips. 😎👍🏼
How can you tell apart the 1760 and the 1931? I inherited one of these, installed into a table, but I still haven't been able to find an identification plate anywhere. I've seen conflicting information about center- vs left-homed needle, or that a shaft near the cam may vs may not have a spring wrapped around it, or that the tension knob face plate is different colors, etc, so I'm very unsure what machine I have and what manual to track down for using and servicing it.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 The bottom!! I should have checked there first, but I didn't think it likely the id plate would be put somewhere so inaccessible. It's a 19311, thanks for the tip!
I ended up getting 2 Kenmore 158.xxxxx machines. GREAT machines! I’m curious though, what do all the numbers indicate after the 158? It seems a bit arcane and I’m not finding anything comprehensive on the subject.
@@Paul.Douglas those numbers denote the features and stitches. Tells you whether it’s a flat bed or free arm style, etc. I don’t have a chart telling me what’s what. If there’s one out there, I’d love to see it and post it.
Question? What makes this different than the 1931? It's identical, so far as I can see. As for these machines not needing adjustment...usually, but not always. My 1940 (best damned machine I've ever owned) was in need of zig zag and straight stitch alignment. My 1914 was rough when I got her, and she wasn't picking up a stitch. Besides the usual de-varnishing, she needed her left homing zig zag and straight stitch also aligned, needle bar to feed dog balance redone, timing (that was a nightmare without that damned tool, had to MacGuyver a fix) and lastly, the pattern cam setup needed very fussy tuning as the patterns were nothing but a mass of blobs. It all depends on how the machine was used, and what types of abuse. The 1940 was dropped on its back when it was being shipped from North Carolina to Canada, which is what I suspect knocked the stitch balance out of alignment. The 1914 was clearly used by an upholsterer or costumer. It was so full of oily black velvet fibres in every single linkage in this machine that it would barely move. The way it was used was clear to anyone with eyes...ridden hard and put away wet. Whomever the prior operator had pushed far heavier loads under its presser foot than it was designed to take. I'm surprised the motor is still functional. Just thought I'd throw that in....even a Mercedes will fall into ruin if its been abused or accidented. BTW, another question? Is the base of this machine made of plastic? I ask because many 1941's have a plastic base, and have this same removeable bed setup with the longer rod and the rear release button (unlike my 40 and 14 which both have a much different rod setup and a front button release...both machines have metal bases). Just wanted to know as I'm trying to understand the differences in Kenmore builds. As usual...awesome vid, and I always look forward to seeing you make machine happen! Thanks again!!
As far as the base is concerned it's all aluminum with steel latches and mechanisms to hold the bottom in place or release it. All metal that is except for the pan at the very bottom which is plastic. The colour match is so close you'd never know it wasn't painted aluminum.
@@r.duroucher225 The pan, as in the lowest part of the machine that the bed and machine sit on? I'd send a photo of what I mean, but you can't really do that on here, LOL. It's that part that I'm talking about. My two machines are top to bottom aluminum, but a 1941 I came across had that "resevior" or whatever you'd call it, pan..etc. That was a plastic component. What I'm trying to understand is which machines came with the rear latched beds (I run a Kenmore group, and we're always on the hunt for new information as Sears was very guarded with their information, as were Maruzen and Soryu. I'm going to guess then that you are talking about the removeable bottom/pan that lets you gain access to the motor. This sits directly underneath the bed and all of the mechanicals, and you need to remove it to access the motor, feed dog mechanisms, etc. Correct? Thanks for being patiend with me in advance.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you Randy. I appreciate that. I run a Kenmore group on Facebook, and we're always trying to get as much information as possible as Sears, Maruzen and Soryu were not really forthcoming with machine models, differences, years built, what have you. As a friend said to me late yesterday, "We have to be Columbo with these machines". It's the gospel!
Another guy in NZ has the Kenmore 158.1931 machine and raves about it. What do you think of that one? I see many Kenmores for sale but not these two models. Are they all awesome if they look similar? Is there anywhere I could find a list of the machines they made and what features they had? Thank you for an excellent demo and tutorial. You really have a great machine. That double overlock stretch stitch would be perfect to use for swimsuits.
The Kenmore’s that I suggest that you try to find, are the: 1)158 series 2)Front load 3) 15 class It’s just that simple. Avoid the ones with the top load, drop-in bobbins. They have a plastic (nylon) feed drive gear that can break.
Hi Randy, I really appreciate your videos and have learned lots from them, thank you. Quick question: what kind of lubricant or grease do you like to use on the gear shaft below the cams? Not sure if it's actually the right name for the part but there tends to be a heavier grease (not mineral oil) on the 3 kenmore machines I've opened up.
Any area that calls for a heavier grease type lubricant for gears, I use Vaseline petroleum jelly. It’s as good as you’ll ever need, and it’s readily available and inexpensive. 😎👍🏼
Hi. I just acquired a 1756 Kenmore. While cleaning and oiling, I learned that the black cam seems stuck. I can't get it off. I am certain it is supposed to come out, as there are the other cams for different stitches. I am trying some Blue Creeper to see if that helps make it a bit slippery so the cam will come off. Am I on the right track, or would you have any other suggestions?Thank you in advance. 😀
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you. I will give that a try.. Another question if I may. The foot pedal is cracked on the top where the foot presses down. I am wondering if it can be super glued, or is it better to buy a replacement. If so, can it be a metal foot pedal or do I need to find another bakelite one.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you for that tip. It worked. I found the spindle and inside of the cam to have old nicotine. Which must have been sticky and hardened. Cleaned them both up and they look great. I am going to put a little oil on the spindle, so the cam slides on and off easily. Thanks again. Wishing you and yours a Happy Thanksgiving.
Thank you for the video. I just snagged one of these machines, and she is a beauty. I have zero attachments/accessories. I'm wondering if the black boxed cam sets (pale green), buttonholer, and monogrammer will fit this machine properly. I have no way to determine this at this time. Also, the needle plate must be only for a straight stitch as it has only a small hole. I have never had a machine that did not have a zigzag plate already in it. So, does that plate come with the cams/buttonholer/monogrammer? Thank you for your help.
Hello . I recently got a kenmore model number 158.523 they look similar except mine has a lever for the thread length. It has an adjustable handle above the electric motor. Any idea whats it for ? Men this machine is like a tank and im reupholstering my vinyl sofa. It cuts like a hot knife through butter. Thanks so much for your insights on this marvels of sewing machines 👍👍👍
@@dzrotary thanks. As a Dad I’m blessed with four perfect daughters who have an imperfect father. I have nine perfect grandkids who think I’m OK I guess. But I’m still trying. Thanks👍🏼😎
So much ahead of its time. So tell me if you can, what's the difference between the 158-1931, and the 158‐1760? They appear to be the same. Basically both seem to be 158-1941 that takes cams.
The only thing different that comes to mind immediately is the flat bad extension that slips on. They have a different lock release as far as I can tell. Other than that, I think they’re pretty much identical.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Yeah, I've noticed that the 158-1941 has two different releases. The later type which your machine has I find to be more secure.
I have the same machine. It also has feed dogs that don't drop, even though all the bottom mechanisms move smoothly. What did you do to correct problem.
@@alfonsomerino2846 penetrating oil and patience. Spray it and work the mechanism until it loosens up. There’s no shortcut that I’m aware of. Work it. Then work it some more. It will loosen up.
How do I receive the stitch length dial on this style machine? I bought a similar model on eBay that arrived in pieces…the seller told me I can take the dial for my troubles before returning but I don’t know how to remove it for my other machine(also similar model) but missing the dial.
I’m not sure I can explain the process of switching out the stitch length dial. If I can find the time, I’ll make a video. As busy as I am right now, it won’t be soon unfortunately.
Yes. You’re just going to be limited by the size of thread. Upholstery thread is too thick and won’t work. You’d be better suited to use an industrial walking foot upholstery machine. At a minimum look for a SAILRITE, and your best bet would be a Consew 206-RB or equivalent.
Hi Randy. I’m sorry to bother you, but I’m desperate to find any information since I can’t get any help from kenmore customer service. I purchased kenmore 158 model 1786081. It works great. But… it has a drop in bobbin. If I want to purchase an additional one I don’t know how to look for it. From the metal ones there are only class 15 available or the plastic ones. Mine is metal since the machine is old. Would you happen to know what type it is. And I’m also having a problem with finding how to sew a button hole in this machine. Looks like I’m gonna need a special plate attachment for this, and I don’t mind purchasing one, I just need to know which one exactly is the right fit. Also, if someone else is reading this comment and knows anything about this machine, I would greatly appreciate if you share some information. Thank you.
@@dariafisic4573 that machine takes a 15 class bobbin. Either plastic or metal will work. The buttonhole apparatus may be available on eBay. I see them there often. I doubt that there’s anyone at Kenmore “customer service” who knows more about this machine than you do. (or as much)
Just about any penetrating oil will do the job. I bought a case of the Max stuff years ago because I got a great deal. Liquid wrench as well as many others are in the shelves at Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ace Hardware. Walmart, Auto Zone, etc. Get the cheap one and spray away.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Hey thank you very much. I got my feed dogs to work. Very Happy thank you and I watched the video on how to get the bottom off my 1941 smile.
@@whisperingpinesrugssewingm8085 you’re welcome. That’s the way to stick with it and prevail as the winner. That machine is worth the extra effort. Now you’ve got a real prize to sew on. 😎👍
@@DLong-wp8su they’re light green and they are single and double stacked.(for stretch) I don’t know which letter designation that calls for, and have never heard of CAM type C or E.
If it won’t turn, it’s usually a thread jam in the shuttle hook area. Take that area apart and the hand wheel should turn freely. I have a video on how to reassemble the hook area.
@@samrodriguez4226 if the hand wheel turns and the machine doesn’t sew, you need to tight the hand wheel clutch knob in the center of the hand wheel. If it won’t tighten properly, I have a video on how to take it apart and reassemble it properly.
If you list them on eBay, I’m confident that they will sell quickly at $35 plus shipping. If someone wants them, and there they are, sold. Good luck. 👍😎
I was gifted one of these by a couple who were moving and decided not to take it. They had inherited it and no one sewed. I'm so grateful to have gotten all the doo-dads and cams, etc. with it. I love your reviews and advice on these wonderful machines. Thank you.
You’re welcome. I’m glad they gave the machine to you and you are grateful and deserving obviously.
Have fun with it. 😎👍🏼
I have recently discovered the joys of the series 158 Kenmore, and now have two! One is the model 15250, and the other is a 13470. As soon as I got them, I tested them then cleaned and oiled them. They are as you say, perfect!
Congratulations. Now that you’ve got two perfect machines, you can dedicate the rest of your life to other worthwhile causes. Feel free to join me in my quest for the perfect cup of coffee, and the tastiest maple cream stick.(aka eclair) 😂👍😎
I sewed on a kenmore 158 for 25 years and passed it to my niece when I bought a computerized Janome. She divorced shortly after and her ex threw out her belongings before she had a chance to stop him. I hope it ended up with someone who loved it. Now I bought my granddaughter a beginner “mechanical” sewing machine by Janome that reminds me of this Kenmore. So happy to hear all the glowing reports on this machine. It served me well!
Your Janome is a good machine. Hopefully you’ll land another classic Kenmore for your heavy projects.😎👍
I inherited my Moms 158.16700 that I learned on as a kid. Always loved its mechanical sounds. Now that I know its a very good heirloom quality machine ill be sure to pass it on to a sewer when it comes time. Thank you for sharing your knowledge so I can keep my machine in tip top shape!
@@hbwatermelon you’re welcome and thanks for watching. 😎👍🏼
I love the terms of endearment! Giblets and Mr Flashlight. 😂😂😂😂 I have a 17033 model and I have all the cams and feet with it. I got mine from a thrift store. It’s such a NICE machine and I am so glad I listened to your channel who speaks so highly of these machines!
Some great references that we share. Thanks for watching. 👍😎
Most of Kenmore 158 series is the best because of all metal housing and made in Japan.
I have this machine and it is fabulous - my favorite (of MANY) vintage sewing machines I own. The 158.1941 is always said to be the best Kenmore there is, but this is exactly the same machine PLUS it takes cams. Yes, it is better than the 1941! If you're lucky enough to have this machine and all the SHS feet and accessories with it, you've got a treasure. There is literally nothing you'd sew on a domestic machine that this can't handle.
You have stated perfectly what I would like to say myself, and have tried on many occasions. You put it eloquently and succinctly.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to add an awesome comment.
😎👍🏼
I've been sewing on 158 machines since they were brand new (back in the 70s). I currently own a 1931 and a 19410. One of the tricks I've used to keep my thread from launching off the machine is a plastic drinking straw cut in half that I place over the spool holder. It gives it a little extra height and keeps that spool where it should be. Best machines ever made. Well, maybe with the exception of my Singer 201.
That’s a good way to solve that problem.
I’ve seen some of my customers using that technique and it sure helps, especially when you’re sewing at high speed.
Clever solution to the issue. 😎👍🏼
One of the many vintage Kenmores I've had came with an extra long spool pin (never seen one before, but there it was.). I love it because not only can it hold the taller spools but also it keeps the spools from flying off when you're winding a bobbin.
@@lisalu910 Having launched many spools of thread, especially when winding a bobbin at high speed, I can appreciate all the tips to keep that from happening.
I guess I could wind at a slower speed, but where’s the thrill and challenge in that? 😂😎👍🏼
Ive got one of these. I like the Kenmores of this era.
They’re on par with the quality of a Lexus. Japanese excellence in design, engineering, and precision. 😎👍🏼
Thank you for the video Randy! Glad I got to meet you! 😊
You’re welcome. I enjoy meeting my customers as they’re all wonderful and interesting folks. 👍😎
I have this machine, found on Marketplace for $75. Came with the table, cams, monograms, buttonholer, feet. The whole gadanza. LOVE it. Had one in the 1970's, replaced it with a low end Janome. Should have had it oiled instead. Been sewing over 50 years, this is the best domestic I've ever had. Yes, I have the touted Singer 201-2 as well. Plus a few more. The Singer sews a pretty stitch, but it's limited. I"m going to go hug my machine now.
It’s a legendary machine. You’re miles ahead of the folks who have just started their search.
Go hug it, indeed. 😎👍🏼
What a great video. Thank you. I have one of these. I got lucky with mine. It looks like it was never used. The only thing that needed any work was the feed dog drop mechanism that was gummed up. That was solved with penetrating oil, and moving the mechanism about two million times and it suddenly freed up. Fabulous machine.
Only two million? You got off easy. I’m pretty sure the record is a gagillion.
Good job anyway. It’s an awesome machine. 😎👍🏼
Randy, I went to the metal recycling scrap yard this morning, to get a piece of banding strap to fab' out a bobbin door catch on my White 734 free arm.
I came home with a 158.19130 ($6, scrap price)
There was 3 Kenmores there, one of which was a Model 90 (158.904)
The '1913 didnt have a foot control. It uses the plug with the pin spacing like this : ** * , to which I know I have one like that,, or so it seems
The receptacle on the machine has a metal shroud around it, and there is a barb that rises forth from this shroud.
It interferes by not allowing the pedal plugs (I have) to fully engage on the 3 pins.😮 Its a loosey-goosey fit, pops off easily.
Did the 158.1913's have a special pedal cord plug that accepts this barb? .
At any rate, I cleaned & lubed this 1913, and fired it up and it is FAST running.
I cant believe someone scrapped this machine for a lousey $5. smh.
There was a German Phoenix machine there too. seized/rusted....too bad.
I see them all the time where people have no idea of their value.
I have “the kids “ call me on occasion and say they have to empty out Moms house because they are listing it.
They say come get these machines or we’re putting them on the curb.
Sometimes they’re caring enough to send me a couple pictures, but not always.
Sometimes the machines are gems, sometimes not.
They are interested in the big money for the house, and they overlook the hundreds of $ value in the machines.
Oh well, time marches on.
I don’t know what to tell you about the wiring question.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 In regards to the " barb " on the machine-side receptacle, I guess I will heat up a nail, and melt a clearance channel on the (** *) 3 pin pedal plug. .
@@robotbuster1487 sounds like it just might work.
I like these a lot. I did install a stiffer spring at the top of the needle bar to tighten things up a bit, as mine was giving a pretty drunken straighr stitch. Stiffer spring solved that nicely.
I do think the 1756 is a superior machine, but it's also a flatbed which is a dealbreaker for some people.
I personally have a soft spot for my 1914. It's got that strong motor, but also the heavier needle bar and innards when compared to my 1940. The 40, however...she is just a beautiful sew. I've never owned a machine that was so well balanced. I guess I love all my Kennies, and I have a few.
If you’re needing more needle pressure, and you don’t have another spring handy, just stretch yours out and reinstall it.
Voila. Problem solved. 😎👍🏼.
That's a beautiful machine--it doesn't have signs of wear & tear so it was obviously neglected! I still think the modifier settings are confusing. I like the Ultra 8 Stitch model with the stitch length knob on the side better.
As a mechanic, there are certain things about machines that I like that as a sewing enthusiast would be different.
There are some that have more ergonomic features that favor some folks tastes over others.
I certainly understand and support your choice, as that Ultra 8 is a great machine also. 😎👍🏼
I've had this sewing machine since it was new in 1974 and it was used for my and my children's garments, plus curtains, slipcovers, quilting, everything! I did not know that it had such a following until I watched a video on maintenance. I now use a Viking for my quilting that my sis gave me a few years back. It's okay, but only because it has a good needle threader, up-down needle position and speed adjustment. I still love my Kenmore and wonder if you know how to get a part for it? The last thread guide that you show in the video is one that broke off years ago (a child who thought he was a tailor I guess) and it is not one that shows up in the manual. Maybe you know how I could replace it. Thanks for the video. I realize that I haven't been threading the bobbin winder properly. Learn something new every day!
Those thread guides should be available online.
Start with sewingpartsonline.com and search from there. 😎👍🏼
I just checked eBay and there’s numerous thread guides available there.
I searched as : “thread guide Kenmore for sale”, and they popped up on eBay. 😎👍🏼
Thank you so much! I will check them out.@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
I have this machine. I picked it up for $30. Wasn't anything wrong with it other than the feed dogs didn't want to drop. Got them working and it had a jam up with the thread. Got that cleared out and it's working great. Got it oiled. I think it's sat definitely out of the sun. I don't think it was used much didn't have the cam 20 but I was able to get a 3D printed version
That’s what usually happens when you get one of these gems.
A little attention to the oiling and cleaning, and away it goes. Success!
Thanks for relating your positive experience with this 158. Series platform.
They’re unbeatable. 😎👍🏼
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I'd actually inherited my first Kenmore sewing machine and since then I've picked up five more including a 3/4 machine. None of them have ever needed much attention but this one the 17 600 is my favorite
@@ecay understandable for sure.
A good friend gave me a Kenmore 158.19412 - are those just as easy to get into good working condition?
@@LuckySawdust absolutely. Great machine you’ve got there.
I subscribe because of this video please make more about this sewing machine
@@diealegendtv5410 thanks. I will do that the next chance I get. Thanks for watching and subscribing. 😎👍
Do you have a video showing how to open the undercarriage? I want to check the grease behind the bobbin case. Many thanks!
Bought one a couple of months ago. It's everything you say, and more. I had one new in the late 1970's, thought I was trading up in 1993 to a Janome. In retrospect my Kenny just needed a tuneup.
Without looking, I can tell you that the grease is fine. The gear box has a gasket seal and the grease is good stuff, not the white lithium grease that turns to glue. Put a drop of oil on every metal mechanism that rotates, slides, hinges, or pivots and you’ll be fine. 😎👍
Randy, great video! I picked up a 158-1602 that unfortunately someone tried to repair and shouldn't have -- I repaired all but the upper cam followers -- they have the thin, light return springs out of order -- are there pictures or repair literature I could find? Thank you!
All I know is what you might get on RUclips.
You’ve put penetrating oil and worked those followers and they won’t spring back ?
I don’t know what to tell you if someone has cobbled things up.
Thanks Randy -- no, its obvious the tension rest on the follower is incorrect. It's amazing that with millions of the Kenmore's made there are no expanded parts manuals or actual service manuals hiding somewhere! I know service parts have not been available for years but parts drawings show where parts are configured.
@@tomtokar7640 those service manuals are somewhere in an old file cabinet in a basement in Chicago.
If Columbo was available, we could get him on the job of finding them.
But for now, we’re stuck with good old RUclips. 😎👍🏼
I thought the bobbin spun counterclockwise or at least how i was taught and have been doing it for years.
The bobbin should always turn away from the slot that the thread goes in.
If the slot goes up, the rotation will be down. And vice versa.
How can you tell apart the 1760 and the 1931? I inherited one of these, installed into a table, but I still haven't been able to find an identification plate anywhere.
I've seen conflicting information about center- vs left-homed needle, or that a shaft near the cam may vs may not have a spring wrapped around it, or that the tension knob face plate is different colors, etc, so I'm very unsure what machine I have and what manual to track down for using and servicing it.
@@emilycaples5811 that will be tough as they are virtually identical.
Did you see where someone removed the id plate?
Sometimes they’re on the bottom.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 The bottom!! I should have checked there first, but I didn't think it likely the id plate would be put somewhere so inaccessible. It's a 19311, thanks for the tip!
I ended up getting 2 Kenmore 158.xxxxx machines. GREAT machines! I’m curious though, what do all the numbers indicate after the 158? It seems a bit arcane and I’m not finding anything comprehensive on the subject.
@@Paul.Douglas those numbers denote the features and stitches.
Tells you whether it’s a flat bed or free arm style, etc.
I don’t have a chart telling me what’s what. If there’s one out there, I’d love to see it and post it.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks! Yeah, me too.
Question? What makes this different than the 1931? It's identical, so far as I can see.
As for these machines not needing adjustment...usually, but not always. My 1940 (best damned machine I've ever owned) was in need of zig zag and straight stitch alignment.
My 1914 was rough when I got her, and she wasn't picking up a stitch. Besides the usual de-varnishing, she needed her left homing zig zag and straight stitch also aligned, needle bar to feed dog balance redone, timing (that was a nightmare without that damned tool, had to MacGuyver a fix) and lastly, the pattern cam setup needed very fussy tuning as the patterns were nothing but a mass of blobs. It all depends on how the machine was used, and what types of abuse.
The 1940 was dropped on its back when it was being shipped from North Carolina to Canada, which is what I suspect knocked the stitch balance out of alignment. The 1914 was clearly used by an upholsterer or costumer. It was so full of oily black velvet fibres in every single linkage in this machine that it would barely move. The way it was used was clear to anyone with eyes...ridden hard and put away wet.
Whomever the prior operator had pushed far heavier loads under its presser foot than it was designed to take. I'm surprised the motor is still functional. Just thought I'd throw that in....even a Mercedes will fall into ruin if its been abused or accidented.
BTW, another question? Is the base of this machine made of plastic? I ask because many 1941's have a plastic base, and have this same removeable bed setup with the longer rod and the rear release button (unlike my 40 and 14 which both have a much different rod setup and a front button release...both machines have metal bases). Just wanted to know as I'm trying to understand the differences in Kenmore builds.
As usual...awesome vid, and I always look forward to seeing you make machine happen! Thanks again!!
As far as the base is concerned it's all aluminum with steel latches and mechanisms to hold the bottom in place or release it. All metal that is except for the pan at the very bottom which is plastic. The colour match is so close you'd never know it wasn't painted aluminum.
The only difference is the flat bed extension as far as I can recall.
Other than that, I think they’re basically twins. 😎👍🏼
@@r.duroucher225 The pan, as in the lowest part of the machine that the bed and machine sit on? I'd send a photo of what I mean, but you can't really do that on here, LOL. It's that part that I'm talking about. My two machines are top to bottom aluminum, but a 1941 I came across had that "resevior" or whatever you'd call it, pan..etc. That was a plastic component. What I'm trying to understand is which machines came with the rear latched beds (I run a Kenmore group, and we're always on the hunt for new information as Sears was very guarded with their information, as were Maruzen and Soryu. I'm going to guess then that you are talking about the removeable bottom/pan that lets you gain access to the motor. This sits directly underneath the bed and all of the mechanicals, and you need to remove it to access the motor, feed dog mechanisms, etc. Correct? Thanks for being patiend with me in advance.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you Randy. I appreciate that. I run a Kenmore group on Facebook, and we're always trying to get as much information as possible as Sears, Maruzen and Soryu were not really forthcoming with machine models, differences, years built, what have you. As a friend said to me late yesterday, "We have to be Columbo with these machines". It's the gospel!
@@shopwornbear1171 you’ve got a meaningful group there for sure. And you are having fun with something you enjoy.
You can’t beat that. 😎👍🏼
Another guy in NZ has the Kenmore 158.1931 machine and raves about it. What do you think of that one? I see many Kenmores for sale but not these two models. Are they all awesome if they look similar? Is there anywhere I could find a list of the machines they made and what features they had?
Thank you for an excellent demo and tutorial. You really have a great machine. That double overlock stretch stitch would be perfect to use for swimsuits.
The Kenmore’s that I suggest that you try to find, are the:
1)158 series
2)Front load
3) 15 class
It’s just that simple.
Avoid the ones with the top load, drop-in bobbins. They have a plastic (nylon) feed drive gear that can break.
Hi Randy, I really appreciate your videos and have learned lots from them, thank you.
Quick question: what kind of lubricant or grease do you like to use on the gear shaft below the cams?
Not sure if it's actually the right name for the part but there tends to be a heavier grease (not mineral oil) on the 3 kenmore machines I've opened up.
Any area that calls for a heavier grease type lubricant for gears, I use Vaseline petroleum jelly.
It’s as good as you’ll ever need, and it’s readily available and inexpensive. 😎👍🏼
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954Randy, about how much would you say to put in the gear box? Thanks!
Hi. I just acquired a 1756 Kenmore. While cleaning and oiling, I learned that the black cam seems stuck. I can't get it off. I am certain it is supposed to come out, as there are the other cams for different stitches. I am trying some Blue Creeper to see if that helps make it a bit slippery so the cam will come off. Am I on the right track, or would you have any other suggestions?Thank you in advance. 😀
@@grahamcracker1054 try putting a wide bladed screwdriver under the metal cam and pop it up. Be firm but gentle. It will cooperate.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you. I will give that a try.. Another question if I may. The foot pedal is cracked on the top where the foot presses down. I am wondering if it can be super glued, or is it better to buy a replacement. If so, can it be a metal foot pedal or do I need to find another bakelite one.
@ you can replace it with a metal foot control. I have a video on that subject.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you for that tip. It worked. I found the spindle and inside of the cam to have old nicotine. Which must have been sticky and hardened. Cleaned them both up and they look great. I am going to put a little oil on the spindle, so the cam slides on and off easily. Thanks again. Wishing you and yours a Happy Thanksgiving.
@ great. Glad to help. Thanks for watching and having the skills to solve the issues. Have a great Thanksgiving as well. 😎👍
Thank you for the video. I just snagged one of these machines, and she is a beauty. I have zero attachments/accessories. I'm wondering if the black boxed cam sets (pale green), buttonholer, and monogrammer will fit this machine properly. I have no way to determine this at this time. Also, the needle plate must be only for a straight stitch as it has only a small hole. I have never had a machine that did not have a zigzag plate already in it. So, does that plate come with the cams/buttonholer/monogrammer?
Thank you for your help.
The only way to know if they will fit is to try to attach them.
Chances are, they’ll fit. Who knows?
It’s worth a try. 👍🏼😎
Hello . I recently got a kenmore model number 158.523 they look similar except mine has a lever for the thread length. It has an adjustable handle above the electric motor. Any idea whats it for ? Men this machine is like a tank and im reupholstering my vinyl sofa. It cuts like a hot knife through butter. Thanks so much for your insights on this marvels of sewing machines 👍👍👍
That lever is to fine tune the stitch definition for either the buttonhole or stretch stitches, whichever it has.
Oh ok i see thanks and if you are a dad , Happy Fathers day sir.
@@dzrotary thanks. As a Dad I’m blessed with four perfect daughters who have an imperfect father.
I have nine perfect grandkids who think I’m OK I guess.
But I’m still trying.
Thanks👍🏼😎
I got one and one and 2 grandkiddos that think im nuts and in a way they are right. Im nuts about them!!!
@@dzrotary that sounds about right. 😎👍🏼
So much ahead of its time. So tell me if you can, what's the difference between the 158-1931, and the 158‐1760? They appear to be the same. Basically both seem to be 158-1941 that takes cams.
The only thing different that comes to mind immediately is the flat bad extension that slips on.
They have a different lock release as far as I can tell.
Other than that, I think they’re pretty much identical.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
Yeah, I've noticed that the 158-1941 has two different releases. The later type which your machine has I find to be more secure.
@@ronalddevine9587 yes you’re correct. When it’s adjusted properly and locks into position, it’s pretty solid.
I have the same machine. It also has feed dogs that don't drop, even though all the bottom mechanisms move smoothly. What did you do to correct problem.
@@alfonsomerino2846 penetrating oil and patience.
Spray it and work the mechanism until it loosens up.
There’s no shortcut that I’m aware of.
Work it. Then work it some more.
It will loosen up.
How do I receive the stitch length dial on this style machine? I bought a similar model on eBay that arrived in pieces…the seller told me I can take the dial for my troubles before returning but I don’t know how to remove it for my other machine(also similar model) but missing the dial.
I’m not sure I can explain the process of switching out the stitch length dial.
If I can find the time, I’ll make a video.
As busy as I am right now, it won’t be soon unfortunately.
Can you sew vinyl (upholstery) with this machine?
Yes. You’re just going to be limited by the size of thread.
Upholstery thread is too thick and won’t work.
You’d be better suited to use an industrial walking foot upholstery machine.
At a minimum look for a SAILRITE, and your best bet would be a Consew 206-RB or equivalent.
Hi Randy. I’m sorry to bother you, but I’m desperate to find any information since I can’t get any help from kenmore customer service. I purchased kenmore 158 model 1786081. It works great. But… it has a drop in bobbin. If I want to purchase an additional one I don’t know how to look for it. From the metal ones there are only class 15 available or the plastic ones. Mine is metal since the machine is old. Would you happen to know what type it is. And I’m also having a problem with finding how to sew a button hole in this machine. Looks like I’m gonna need a special plate attachment for this, and I don’t mind purchasing one, I just need to know which one exactly is the right fit. Also, if someone else is reading this comment and knows anything about this machine, I would greatly appreciate if you share some information. Thank you.
@@dariafisic4573 that machine takes a 15 class bobbin. Either plastic or metal will work.
The buttonhole apparatus may be available on eBay.
I see them there often.
I doubt that there’s anyone at Kenmore “customer service” who knows more about this machine than you do. (or as much)
I'm trying to find the Max super penetrant. Not on Amazon. Hubby said he doesn't know were to find it. can you help. Have a wonderful day.
Just about any penetrating oil will do the job.
I bought a case of the Max stuff years ago because I got a great deal.
Liquid wrench as well as many others are in the shelves at Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ace Hardware. Walmart, Auto Zone, etc.
Get the cheap one and spray away.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 ty
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Hey thank you very much. I got my feed dogs to work. Very Happy thank you and I watched the video on how to get the bottom off my 1941 smile.
@@whisperingpinesrugssewingm8085 you’re welcome. That’s the way to stick with it and prevail as the winner. That machine is worth the extra effort.
Now you’ve got a real prize to sew on. 😎👍
Is this model use CAM type C or E?
@@DLong-wp8su they’re light green and they are single and double stacked.(for stretch)
I don’t know which letter designation that calls for, and have never heard of CAM type C or E.
I'm have trouble with my the round wheel that on ur right hand side it's trun
If it won’t turn, it’s usually a thread jam in the shuttle hook area.
Take that area apart and the hand wheel should turn freely.
I have a video on how to reassemble the hook area.
it's not let me soul
@@samrodriguez4226 if the hand wheel turns and the machine doesn’t sew, you need to tight the hand wheel clutch knob in the center of the hand wheel.
If it won’t tighten properly, I have a video on how to take it apart and reassemble it properly.
I have the cams for this machine. I would like to get rid of them.
If you list them on eBay, I’m confident that they will sell quickly at $35 plus shipping. If someone wants them, and there they are, sold. Good luck. 👍😎
My is a sears Kenmore 15815150
That’s a real good machine