I’m so thankful for people like you who take the time to make such unbelievably amazing videos!!! What would the world be like without people like you?! xx
You saved my machine!! Thank you so much. I didn't oil it at all for 10+ years and my home is very humid so the machine was completely jammed. I oiled it last night and almost scraped my hand raw trying to move the wheel back and forth. Left it overnight and bam! It works again! I think I put too much oil because I panicked but hopefully it'll be OK. Thanks again!
I have a 148, which I guess is a little older than this one. Mine is from 1974 and I don't know how long it was sitting unused before I got it. It was functional, but it gave me trouble. It was reluctant to start when I pushed down the pedal. It wanted to go fast or not at all. It skipped stitches. The stitch length was erratic. It seemed like it was fighting me, but I wasn't a very experienced tailor so I didn't know how a machine should feel when it was working normally. I followed the steps in this series of videos and now my machine runs much better. I am working faster and my projects are turning out better. It is easier to develop my skills because I am getting consistent results instead of randomness. Thank you for sharing this knowledge with me.
Thanks this is super helpful! I’m a first time sewer and I got this exact machine. I’m younger and very inexperienced but with your help and guidance I feel confident that my machine is well taken care of :)
Thank you for these videos. I bought a mechanical machine vs. a computerized model specifically so I can do the cleaning and oiling myself. The manual SUCKS and is totally unclear as to what to oil. I really appreciate your videos.
Randy, I have a Kenmore 158-1802 that is going to need new belts soon. Could you do a video covering this? My problem is removing the side cover. I can't figure out how to get it and the handwheel off. There must be an easy way, but with the double belt system, I'm a bit stymied. Your videos are the best in the business. Thanks, Ron
Thanks for the suggestion. That is a challenge and a puzzle getting that all apart and back together. I’ll try to do that in the next couple days. I’ve been super busy servicing sewing machines for customers who are now making masks AND Halloween costumes. But first, are your belts disintegrating or just loose and slipping? If they are coming apart, they definitely need replaced. If they’re just loose and slipping, they can be tightened. Either way, I’ll get to it ASAP.
So, I watched all three, and it confirmed for me many things I am already doing, and I picked up a couple new things I will now start to do. I have a collection of sewing machines and recently picked up a Kenmore 158.143(!?) I have to double check that, but in my effort to clean it up - I completely dismantled the take up assembly from the head of the machine. I kept all the piece in order, and I am confident I got it tother the way it came apart, but am not confident it was correct when I started. This one is styled in between the old school black singer type and the ones found on many of the kenmore late 60s and 70s models. I don't know if it's possible to send images via this message service - if I can figure out how to get you an image, I would be interested in your thoughts.
@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Well that's the thing - it's not functioning after I put it back into the head. Couldn't figure out how to send you an image of my machine but I found a link to another youtuber with a very simular one. It has the same take up assembly. ruclips.net/video/HR1nmElU0Dk/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Hi Randy, I just bought a Kenmore 158:19400 ($12!!) and am cleaning it up, following your videos. One problem: my machine has a lever to select "white" or "orange" stitch patterns. After I had the top off and oiled "whatever hinges or slides up and down", and when I re-assembled, and running on the "white" stitches, I hear a "tock-tock-tock" as the machine stitches. On the orange option, no noise. Any ideas? Love the videos; I never have had a Kenmore before. Thanks
When you’re in the orange selection, the stitch length can be on any length. When you’re set on the white stitches, the length has to be on its longest setting for the stretch stitches to perform. If the stitch length setting is any shorter than it’s longest setting, you’ll hear that noise when it’s in the white mode. 😎
Very informative. Thank you 😊. By any chance do you know of any sources for touch up paint for kenmore sewing machines? I have a 158-1802 that could use some touching up. Thanks again
That’s a good question Ronald. I used to paint industrial sewing machines but color matching wasn’t a problem because they were mostly all black or grey. The Kenmore is kind of a light olive green and I’ve never even tried to match it. The Home Depot has that high tech paint matcher that has been awesome for home projects, but I don’t know how it will work for metal paint. Take the side cover or top cover to them and see what they suggest. The lady at our Home Depot is very skilled at her job. I imagine yours is trained to the same level. Let me know if you solve it. Thanks.
Is there a particular type of oil that works best? I inherited my great grandmother’s sewing machine. Occasionally the needle gets stuck while the manual knob on the right side continues to turn. I’m assuming this is an issue with the gears, and some oil would fix my problem.
Just use regular sewing machine oil that you can get at the fabric store or online. If the needle stops, and the hand wheel continues to turn, you may want to tighten the hand wheel clutch release knob. Hold the hand wheel with your left hand so it doesn’t turn, while you turn the inside knob away from you to tighten the clutch release.
Thank you so much! Before oiling my new old machine, I ran it for a couple seconds and smelled something. Is that indicative of an issue or is that probably just because it's dry and dusty? I had a motor issue with my last machine post-oiling and I'm scared that I have the same issue again
After a machine sits idle for an extended time, it’s always a good idea to run the motor with the hand wheel released to recondition the motor brushes and eliminate the airborne particulates that may be on the armature. It will definitely produce an odor. Don’t be alarmed, that’s not unusual. If it runs really slow and produces a blue smoke, not good. That usually means the motor was over oiled. What you should do in that event is to keep running the motor until it reaches a high speed and all the blue smoke goes away.
Just buy sewing machine oil. It’s highly refined mineral oil so it doesn’t stain and is clear. Buy it at Walmart, Amazon, or Joann fabrics. The container will say: “Sewing machine oil”.
Do you have any info on the 158.13511? I am unable to get the bottom off to oil it. Also, The top dial that shows different stitches just moves freely and doesnt seem to catch to be able to switch the stitches. Any advise?
Randy: I just looked at a 158.19800 machine today,,,"Sears Best"'" so they say I noticed it had a very large pedal, 'Solid State, Power Pack' was marked on it. The machine plug was very different also. I got scared of the pedal and cord and passed on it Why is the foot pedal so large/heavy/different on a 158.1980?
@@robotbuster1487 i think you’re correct. It’s got some kind of one off, never get fixed nightmare waiting to happen. With thousands of excellent machines out there that we know are perfect, why roll the dice on their experimental models.
3:33 Inspect that area very carefully. My machine had a 'hitch', it just wouldn't run smoothly. I looked for bad gears, I looked for bent shafts, anything rubbing or binding. I finally saw just a faint trace of dark residue in the race. When I got it thoroughly clean, the machine ran perfectly.
If there is grease in the gear area, you can change it out if you’re bored and have nothing else to do. It won’t cause any problems to have a different color grease in the gear box. Or, you can just not worry about it and that grease will be working effectively and efficiently for the next 10 generations.
Hello!!! Thank you so much for your video! I have a Kenmore machine similar to this one so this is helpful! I was reading that there are two kinds of oil, mineral and synthetic. Does it matter which one? I just purchased a little bottle of liberty oil and I want to make sure I dont ruin the machine with the wrong oil!
If the container is new and says”sewing machine oil”, you’re good to go. It’s a light oil that gets into the intended locations. A little goes a long way.
Randy, I picked up a Sears kenmore model # 158.19141 serial #0005941 for $9.00 unfortunately there was no foot pedal with the machine. Before I purchase a foot pedal I was wonder if you could tell me if this machine is capable of sewing nylon webbing? The webbing requires a heavy thread #69 nylon coated. Thanks for your help Sir!!😊
It will sew a couple layers but you might be limited by the 69 nylon. There may not be enough clearance in the thread gap to allow it to make a stitch without looping or jamming. You can get a small spool of 69 nylon thread and try it by hand turning the hand wheel. Give it a test, sometimes there are exceptions to the rule. Good luck 🍀
@@rogeoz if it is opened enough to accommodate the big diameter thread, it will cause the hook assembly to jam. So, the short answer is no. Unfortunately.
RANDY, Is there a difference between sewing machine oil and lubricant? I bought a lubricant at Joann Fabrics. Does that work the same as oil? Or should I get oil?
Technically, oil is in the category of “lubricant” along with grease and silicone and etc. Usually, the correct lubricant for sewing machines will say “sewing machine oil”. If it’s a light grade, highly refined mineral oil that’s clear and viscous, that’s the stuff. Try to avoid any oil that contains solvents or additives that can go bad and discolor your fabric.
Hello Randy- My Kenmore 158 has just started...stopping. It sews for about 3 minutes then slows down and doesn't seem to have the power to keep going. I have oiled, cleaned, watched your video on the clutch and the band... so not sure what to check next. Thank you
If the hand wheel is hard to turn, there may be a oiling point that was missed. It also could be that the belt is too tight. Loosen the hand wheel release knob and make sure that the motor runs freely and at a high speed. The belt should have some flex to it. At least a quarter inch to a half inch of flex. Make sure to check your idler pulley if you have the dual belt system. A drop of oil on either side of the rotating pulley will lubricate that pulley axle. Try all that and let me know.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you! I have only one belt and it doesn't have that sliding bolt type adjustment. I can't actually see any adjustment to the belt except for perhaps a screw on a piece that comes off of the motor. It seems like the screw might allow adjustment of the belt out and in (towards and away from) the motor, which may tighten or loosen it. The screw is very tight and has not been touched in 40 years... the age of this machine (158.13511). I will keep you posted on the oiling double-check.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Hi Randy- Not quite. My shuttle assembly is different and I don't have the tab shown on the right side of the machine in the videos-- just an aside there, but I don't have that tab. The bottom of machine comes off in one big piece-- also not like the 12-stitch that you use to demonstrate the belt adjustment. The bottom of my machine has an arm piece-- so it is more than just a square. I have to go to work now... even though i'd much rather fix my sewing machine, I will get back to this late tonight PST. Thank you for your help!
I have 158 Siri Kenmore my small belt motor will move but my big one won’t move does it need to be oiled or do I need to get it re-paired or replace belt I can’t find mini Kenmore vintage videos to help me with this if you can help would be most appreciated thank you for your time
That’s usually an indication that your idler pulley is not moving on its axle. Carefully lubricate the ends of the axle with a light oil to get it moving. Sometimes it will need to be helped moving if it has sat for a long time, and the old oil has hardened.
@@jasen17king 99 percent of the time, i use sewing machine oil. You can get it online, at Joann Fabrics, Hobby Lobby, or Walmart. The side of the container will say: Sewing machine oil. Nothing fancy. Just sewing machine oil.
I have a video on that procedure where I take it all apart, service it, and put it all back together. I don’t recommend that you undertake that challenge, unless you’re a better than average mechanic with some specialized skills. But, what do I know, you may be better at problem solving than the folks at your local sewing machine shop. No guts, no glory, right ? 😎👍🏼🍀
Hi thank you for posting! I need help on how to remove to top cover. The manual simply says "lift cover" but mine won't come up. The machine is new to me so I don't know how hard I need to tug to lift it.
Sometimes it takes a pretty strong amount of lifting energy to pop off the top cover. Carefully place a wide blade screwdriver on the left side and using slight leverage pressure, it might be even easier. Always use finesse instead of pressure or power. These machines are finely crafted, and are positively responsive to a patient approach.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you for your help! I managed to get the cover off and now it's oiled and ready to go. I used a flat screw driver that I covered in cloth to protect the enamel. I don't think the top had been taken off in a long time, it definitely needed some coaxing.
I took the hook and casing out cleaned oiled wiped it out then snapped it back (left to right...right to left....put the bobbin casing back in however, when I turn my wheel to try and catch the top thread...my bobbin case KEEPS popping back out~ It wont stay in??? Any suggestions?? HELP please...
Check for a small loop of thread that may be wrapped around the post that your bobbin case snaps on to. It could be preventing the case from latching securely.
If it’s the foot control that heats up, it doing its job properly. If it’s something else, it’s usually the belts are too tight or there’s some bearings that need to be oiled properly. If you sew without a shoe on your accelerator foot, it will always seem warm. The slower you sew, the hotter it will get. Perfectly normal. 👍😎
Thanks for the response. I am grateful to you. I discovered that the heat was from the light side, but after removing the lighting, my machine no longer got hot at all. I would like your help, please, regarding the type of lighting. What type should I buy for my Kenmore machine?
i just got me a sears kenmore 158.923 everything with it cams and button hole thing with a lot of plates also a lot of other things for 10.00 it runs skips and runs slow i want to learn how to use it i cleaned it up runs a little sluggish and the stitching is not good what can i do
Watch my three part videos on servicing. Put the tension dial on 4. Leave it there. Never change it unless you are on a very light fabric, then turn it to 3. For a very heavy fabric, put it on 5. 3 to 5 is the range for all sewing projects. Don’t use an oversized thread. Don’t oil the motor or belts. Good luck!
Hi where's the video that shows how to take apart and put back together the Bobbin assembly ? I wound a bobbin and took that assembly apart for no reason and now my entire sewing machine won't work. The big round thing turns on the right side of the machine, that you can make the machine go by turning it, , whatever it's called. Ugh. But the sewing machine isn't doing anything . OLD KENMORE ULTRA STITCH 12.
Hola miró su video, tengo una máquina de coser marca kenmore modelo 158.18033 serie 0011882 se mueve dónde va los dientes y no cambia la ajuga a la derecha ni izquierda este en el centro y hace ruido al coser, me puede ayudar porfavor como reparar la máquina gracias soy de Nicaragua
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Hello, I watched your video. I have a Kenmore sewing machine, model 158.18033, serial number 0011882. The part where the feed dogs are moves, but the needle does not shift to the right or left; it stays in the center, and it makes noise while sewing. Could you please help me repair the machine? Thank you, I am from Nicaragua.
@@isabelestrada5805 it needs to be oiled and nothing else. All of the mechanisms will freeze up if they’re not lubricated properly and often. Don’t turn any screws or take anything apart. If you do, it can’t be fixed by lubrication only. Be patient and oil it and work it.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 "Where the stitch numbering is changed, it gets stuck and makes the changes on its own. And where the zigzag is adjusted, it doesn’t move to the left or right. If I want to set it to number 4, it jumps to a zigzag automatically. I want it to make a straight stitch but on the right side. On the right, I want it to make straight stitches, but it only makes zigzag stitches. What can I do to fix the machine and make it work properly?" "Thank you for the first response."
@@isabelestrada5805 same answer from me as before. Oil it and work it. Then………. Oil it and work it some more. Do that repeatedly. It’s a process. It won’t happen instantaneously, But it will happen.
I’m so thankful for people like you who take the time to make such unbelievably amazing videos!!! What would the world be like without people like you?! xx
I get my inspiration from people like you. Yen and Yang.
Thanks for watching. 😎👍🏼
You saved my machine!! Thank you so much. I didn't oil it at all for 10+ years and my home is very humid so the machine was completely jammed. I oiled it last night and almost scraped my hand raw trying to move the wheel back and forth. Left it overnight and bam! It works again! I think I put too much oil because I panicked but hopefully it'll be OK. Thanks again!
Excellent. Glad to help.
What kinda oil
I have a 148, which I guess is a little older than this one. Mine is from 1974 and I don't know how long it was sitting unused before I got it. It was functional, but it gave me trouble. It was reluctant to start when I pushed down the pedal. It wanted to go fast or not at all. It skipped stitches. The stitch length was erratic. It seemed like it was fighting me, but I wasn't a very experienced tailor so I didn't know how a machine should feel when it was working normally. I followed the steps in this series of videos and now my machine runs much better. I am working faster and my projects are turning out better. It is easier to develop my skills because I am getting consistent results instead of randomness. Thank you for sharing this knowledge with me.
You’re welcome. Thanks for your generous response.
You are the reason this channel exists.
😎👍🏼
Thanks this is super helpful! I’m a first time sewer and I got this exact machine. I’m younger and very inexperienced but with your help and guidance I feel confident that my machine is well taken care of :)
You’re welcome and thanks for watching. 👍🏼😎
Thank you! I learned about 3 new places to oil, and cleaned out the bobbin area for the first time ever.
@@celinamcginnis1787 you’re welcome. Thanks for watching. 😎👍🏼
Randy, thank you so much for your videos. You saved me!! Just got a Kenmore 158.15251 and I'm new to sewing. Bless you!
You’re welcome and thanks for your kind words.
Thank you sir, my Grandma's machine has nothing wrong with it, does everything I need. With your help it will stay out of the landfill.
Excellent. Your comment made my day. Thanks for watching. 😎
Thank you for these videos. I bought a mechanical machine vs. a computerized model specifically so I can do the cleaning and oiling myself. The manual SUCKS and is totally unclear as to what to oil. I really appreciate your videos.
You’re welcome
You rock Randy! VERY helpful video series on this model. Thx!
You’re welcome. I appreciate your positive feedback.
Randy, I really appreciate you video and humor!
Thanks for your kind comments. You’re welcome.
2:59, hits the spot! Exactly where my squeaky Kenmore 12-Stitch needed oil. Thanks for a great, clear video and lots of much-needed information.
You’re welcome. Glad to help.
Randy, I have a Kenmore 158-1802 that is going to need new belts soon. Could you do a video covering this? My problem is removing the side cover. I can't figure out how to get it and the handwheel off. There must be an easy way, but with the double belt system, I'm a bit stymied. Your videos are the best in the business. Thanks, Ron
Thanks for the suggestion. That is a challenge and a puzzle getting that all apart and back together. I’ll try to do that in the next couple days. I’ve been super busy servicing sewing machines for customers who are now making masks AND Halloween costumes. But first, are your belts disintegrating or just loose and slipping? If they are coming apart, they definitely need replaced. If they’re just loose and slipping, they can be tightened. Either way, I’ll get to it ASAP.
Just watched your part one and picked up a couple nice tips. TY - Very helpful.
You’re welcome.👍😎
So, I watched all three, and it confirmed for me many things I am already doing, and I picked up a couple new things I will now start to do. I have a collection of sewing machines and recently picked up a Kenmore 158.143(!?) I have to double check that, but in my effort to clean it up - I completely dismantled the take up assembly from the head of the machine. I kept all the piece in order, and I am confident I got it tother the way it came apart, but am not confident it was correct when I started. This one is styled in between the old school black singer type and the ones found on many of the kenmore late 60s and 70s models. I don't know if it's possible to send images via this message service - if I can figure out how to get you an image, I would be interested in your thoughts.
@@ScottyRockz253 ok.
@@ScottyRockz253 if it works, you most likely got it reassembled properly.
@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Well that's the thing - it's not functioning after I put it back into the head. Couldn't figure out how to send you an image of my machine but I found a link to another youtuber with a very simular one. It has the same take up assembly.
ruclips.net/video/HR1nmElU0Dk/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Hi Randy, I just bought a Kenmore 158:19400 ($12!!) and am cleaning it up, following your videos. One problem: my machine has a lever to select "white" or "orange" stitch patterns. After I had the top off and oiled "whatever hinges or slides up and down", and when I re-assembled, and running on the "white" stitches, I hear a "tock-tock-tock" as the machine stitches. On the orange option, no noise. Any ideas? Love the videos; I never have had a Kenmore before. Thanks
When you’re in the orange selection, the stitch length can be on any length.
When you’re set on the white stitches, the length has to be on its longest setting for the stretch stitches to perform.
If the stitch length setting is any shorter than it’s longest setting, you’ll hear that noise when it’s in the white mode. 😎
Very informative. Thank you 😊. By any chance do you know of any sources for touch up paint for kenmore sewing machines? I have a 158-1802 that could use some touching up. Thanks again
That’s a good question Ronald. I used to paint industrial sewing machines but color matching wasn’t a problem because they were mostly all black or grey. The Kenmore is kind of a light olive green and I’ve never even tried to match it. The Home Depot has that high tech paint matcher that has been awesome for home projects, but I don’t know how it will work for metal paint. Take the side cover or top cover to them and see what they suggest. The lady at our Home Depot is very skilled at her job. I imagine yours is trained to the same level. Let me know if you solve it. Thanks.
Thank you so much! This is exactly what I needed!
You’re welcome and thanks for watching. 👍🏼😎
You can add a laser line marker to this machine for sewng line
Is there a particular type of oil that works best? I inherited my great grandmother’s sewing machine. Occasionally the needle gets stuck while the manual knob on the right side continues to turn. I’m assuming this is an issue with the gears, and some oil would fix my problem.
Just use regular sewing machine oil that you can get at the fabric store or online. If the needle stops, and the hand wheel continues to turn, you may want to tighten the hand wheel clutch release knob. Hold the hand wheel with your left hand so it doesn’t turn, while you turn the inside knob away from you to tighten the clutch release.
Nice one
@@eno-obongsunday8965 👍🏼😎
Thank you so much! Before oiling my new old machine, I ran it for a couple seconds and smelled something. Is that indicative of an issue or is that probably just because it's dry and dusty? I had a motor issue with my last machine post-oiling and I'm scared that I have the same issue again
After a machine sits idle for an extended time, it’s always a good idea to run the motor with the hand wheel released to recondition the motor brushes and eliminate the airborne particulates that may be on the armature. It will definitely produce an odor. Don’t be alarmed, that’s not unusual. If it runs really slow and produces a blue smoke, not good. That usually means the motor was over oiled. What you should do in that event is to keep running the motor until it reaches a high speed and all the blue smoke goes away.
Whats the best kind of oil to use on an older machine like this? Is there any type or brand we should avoid?
Just buy sewing machine oil.
It’s highly refined mineral oil so it doesn’t stain and is clear.
Buy it at Walmart, Amazon, or Joann fabrics.
The container will say:
“Sewing machine oil”.
Do you have any info on the 158.13511? I am unable to get the bottom off to oil it. Also, The top dial that shows different stitches just moves freely and doesnt seem to catch to be able to switch the stitches. Any advise?
Randy: I just looked at a 158.19800 machine today,,,"Sears Best"'" so they say
I noticed it had a very large pedal, 'Solid State, Power Pack' was marked on it. The machine plug was very different also.
I got scared of the pedal and cord and passed on it
Why is the foot pedal so large/heavy/different on a 158.1980?
@@robotbuster1487 I pass on them as well. An analog foot control has a better performance than an electronic..
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 The weight of the pedal made me wonder if it had an AC to DC converter in it
@@robotbuster1487 i think you’re correct. It’s got some kind of one off, never get fixed nightmare waiting to happen.
With thousands of excellent machines out there that we know are perfect, why roll the dice on their experimental models.
3:33 Inspect that area very carefully. My machine had a 'hitch', it just wouldn't run smoothly. I looked for bad gears, I looked for bent shafts, anything rubbing or binding. I finally saw just a faint trace of dark residue in the race. When I got it thoroughly clean, the machine ran perfectly.
Excellent work. I make sure the race is shiny clean and lightly oiled for best results.😎
How did you clean it?
@@strawbunniiee Q-tip with alcohol. Took a bit of effort.
Does the 158 16250 have a grease box and does the grease need to be cleaned out and replaced. Do you have a video about this?
If there is grease in the gear area, you can change it out if you’re bored and have nothing else to do. It won’t cause any problems to have a different color grease in the gear box.
Or, you can just not worry about it and that grease will be working effectively and efficiently for the next 10 generations.
Hello!!! Thank you so much for your video! I have a Kenmore machine similar to this one so this is helpful! I was reading that there are two kinds of oil, mineral and synthetic. Does it matter which one? I just purchased a little bottle of liberty oil and I want to make sure I dont ruin the machine with the wrong oil!
If the container is new and says”sewing machine oil”, you’re good to go. It’s a light oil that gets into the intended locations. A little goes a long way.
I just looked up the Liberty Oil online. Looks like ok stuff to me.
Ok great!! I just want to make sure. I didnt want to use new oil on an old machine and that be the end of that. Thank you very much!
@@ninjaturtle365 you’re welcome
Randy, I picked up a Sears kenmore model # 158.19141 serial #0005941 for $9.00 unfortunately there was no foot pedal with the machine. Before I purchase a foot pedal I was wonder if you could tell me if this machine is capable of sewing nylon webbing? The webbing requires a heavy thread #69 nylon coated. Thanks for your help Sir!!😊
It will sew a couple layers but you might be limited by the 69 nylon. There may not be enough clearance in the thread gap to allow it to make a stitch without looping or jamming.
You can get a small spool of 69 nylon thread and try it by hand turning the hand wheel. Give it a test, sometimes there are exceptions to the rule.
Good luck 🍀
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Would it be possible to adjust the Thread Gap Clearance on this particular model?
@@rogeoz if it is opened enough to accommodate the big diameter thread, it will cause the hook assembly to jam.
So, the short answer is no. Unfortunately.
Is it the same process for the 1757 model? I'm eyeing one on facebook and just wondering
@@strawbunniiee yes.
Anything that pivots, hinges, rotates, or slides: gets oiled.
Just got a 1431 I’m excited about it. Could you recommend a light bulb for it? The one that came with it gets really hot. Thank you
Get an L. E. D. Bulb. It uses the same as a Singer 221 Featherweight. Bayonet base. Push and twist. Easy. Peazy.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you
@@channeling2 you’re welcome
RANDY,
Is there a difference between sewing machine oil and lubricant? I bought a lubricant at Joann Fabrics. Does that work the same as oil? Or should I get oil?
Technically, oil is in the category of “lubricant” along with grease and silicone and etc. Usually, the correct lubricant for sewing machines will say “sewing machine oil”. If it’s a light grade, highly refined mineral oil that’s clear and viscous, that’s the stuff. Try to avoid any oil that contains solvents or additives that can go bad and discolor your fabric.
Randy were can I buy parts for kenmore 153 I do mane it's were go and tied or adjust the treat retention
Try sewing parts online .com or sewingpartsplus.com. Good luck.
Hello Randy- My Kenmore 158 has just started...stopping. It sews for about 3 minutes then slows down and doesn't seem to have the power to keep going. I have oiled, cleaned, watched your video on the clutch and the band... so not sure what to check next. Thank you
If the hand wheel is hard to turn, there may be a oiling point that was missed. It also could be that the belt is too tight. Loosen the hand wheel release knob and make sure that the motor runs freely and at a high speed. The belt should have some flex to it. At least a quarter inch to a half inch of flex. Make sure to check your idler pulley if you have the dual belt system. A drop of oil on either side of the rotating pulley will lubricate that pulley axle. Try all that and let me know.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you! I have only one belt and it doesn't have that sliding bolt type adjustment. I can't actually see any adjustment to the belt except for perhaps a screw on a piece that comes off of the motor. It seems like the screw might allow adjustment of the belt out and in (towards and away from) the motor, which may tighten or loosen it. The screw is very tight and has not been touched in 40 years... the age of this machine (158.13511). I will keep you posted on the oiling double-check.
@@amyaltick281 is your machine the same type as in my video you posted on?
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Hi Randy- Not quite. My shuttle assembly is different and I don't have the tab shown on the right side of the machine in the videos-- just an aside there, but I don't have that tab. The bottom of machine comes off in one big piece-- also not like the 12-stitch that you use to demonstrate the belt adjustment. The bottom of my machine has an arm piece-- so it is more than just a square. I have to go to work now... even though i'd much rather fix my sewing machine, I will get back to this late tonight PST. Thank you for your help!
@@amyaltick281 if your motor is mounted underneath, you have the two belt system with the idler pulley.
Very helpful ! Thank you.
You’re welcome
I have 158 Siri Kenmore my small belt motor will move but my big one won’t move does it need to be oiled or do I need to get it re-paired or replace belt I can’t find mini Kenmore vintage videos to help me with this if you can help would be most appreciated thank you for your time
That’s usually an indication that your idler pulley is not moving on its axle. Carefully lubricate the ends of the axle with a light oil to get it moving. Sometimes it will need to be helped moving if it has sat for a long time, and the old oil has hardened.
How do you open the top of this machine??
Two screws. One on the top left and one on the top right.
What kinda oil do you use to oil any machine
@@jasen17king 99 percent of the time, i use sewing machine oil.
You can get it online, at Joann Fabrics, Hobby Lobby, or Walmart.
The side of the container will say:
Sewing machine oil.
Nothing fancy. Just sewing machine oil.
How do I remove the side wheel on a Kenmore 158-18030?
I have a video on that procedure where I take it all apart, service it, and put it all back together.
I don’t recommend that you undertake that challenge, unless you’re a better than average mechanic with some specialized skills.
But, what do I know, you may be better at problem solving than the folks at your local sewing machine shop.
No guts, no glory, right ? 😎👍🏼🍀
Hi thank you for posting! I need help on how to remove to top cover. The manual simply says "lift cover" but mine won't come up. The machine is new to me so I don't know how hard I need to tug to lift it.
Sometimes it takes a pretty strong amount of lifting energy to pop off the top cover. Carefully place a wide blade screwdriver on the left side and using slight leverage pressure, it might be even easier. Always use finesse instead of pressure or power. These machines are finely crafted, and are positively responsive to a patient approach.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you for your help! I managed to get the cover off and now it's oiled and ready to go. I used a flat screw driver that I covered in cloth to protect the enamel. I don't think the top had been taken off in a long time, it definitely needed some coaxing.
Sarah Amirault great job! Your official sewing machine technician certificate of accomplishment is awarded to you. LOL. Glad it worked out well.
Someone said to use triflow grese on gears and oil on everything else is this correct?
Triflow grease will work on gears. Use a light sewing machine oil for bearings and bushings. Always be extra careful not to over oil the motor.
Where and what kind of oil is it?
Sewing machine oil will be sold as just that, sewing machine oil. It’s lighter than most oils. Joanne fabrics or online.
I took the hook and casing out cleaned oiled wiped it out then snapped it back (left to right...right to left....put the bobbin casing back in however, when I turn my wheel to try and catch the top thread...my bobbin case KEEPS popping back out~ It wont stay in???
Any suggestions??
HELP please...
Check for a small loop of thread that may be wrapped around the post that your bobbin case snaps on to. It could be preventing the case from latching securely.
My Kenmore sewing machine starts heating up immediately after turning it on. Do you know why? Please help
If it’s the foot control that heats up, it doing its job properly.
If it’s something else, it’s usually the belts are too tight or there’s some bearings that need to be oiled properly.
If you sew without a shoe on your accelerator foot, it will always seem warm.
The slower you sew, the hotter it will get. Perfectly normal. 👍😎
Thanks for the response. I am grateful to you. I discovered that the heat was from the light side, but after removing the lighting, my machine no longer got hot at all. I would like your help, please, regarding the type of lighting. What type should I buy for my Kenmore machine?
@@madramshaibi1071 get an L. E. D bulb with the same bayonet base. It’s cool and bright and it solves your problem perfectly.👍😎
Just got a Kenmore 158.140 the guy had it stored in his garage, help me lawd!
Watch some videos and clean it and oil it. You should have good results.
How to put the needle
@@eno-obongsunday8965 flat side to the back.
The needle I recommend is a Singer model 2045 in a size 14. 👍🏼😎
@@eno-obongsunday8965 on the 158 series, the needle installs with the flat side facing to the rear.. 👍🏼😎
Thank you
You’re welcome. 👍😎
What oil should I use?
Just use regular sewing machine oil. Available at Walmart, Joann fabrics, or online.
i just got me a sears kenmore 158.923 everything with it cams and button hole thing with a lot of plates also a lot of other things for 10.00 it runs skips and runs slow i want to learn how to use it i cleaned it up runs a little sluggish and the stitching is not good what can i do
Watch my three part videos on servicing. Put the tension dial on 4. Leave it there. Never change it unless you are on a very light fabric, then turn it to 3. For a very heavy fabric, put it on 5. 3 to 5 is the range for all sewing projects. Don’t use an oversized thread. Don’t oil the motor or belts. Good luck!
Where can I find a manual for odel 158.13511
Do an online search for that model and multiply sources will appear. 😎👍🏼
got it! thank you. @@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
Hi where's the video that shows how to take apart and put back together the Bobbin assembly ?
I wound a bobbin and took that assembly apart for no reason and now my entire sewing machine won't work.
The big round thing turns on the right side of the machine, that you can make the machine go by turning it, , whatever it's called. Ugh.
But the sewing machine isn't doing anything .
OLD KENMORE ULTRA STITCH 12.
I have a video showing how to reassemble the hand wheel clutch, if that’s what got taken apart.
It’s my most watched video.
Hola miró su video, tengo una máquina de coser marca kenmore modelo 158.18033 serie 0011882 se mueve dónde va los dientes y no cambia la ajuga a la derecha ni izquierda este en el centro y hace ruido al coser, me puede ayudar porfavor como reparar la máquina gracias soy de Nicaragua
@@isabelestrada5805 I’m sorry but I don’t speak Spanish.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Hello, I watched your video. I have a Kenmore sewing machine, model 158.18033, serial number 0011882. The part where the feed dogs are moves, but the needle does not shift to the right or left; it stays in the center, and it makes noise while sewing. Could you please help me repair the machine? Thank you, I am from Nicaragua.
@@isabelestrada5805 it needs to be oiled and nothing else.
All of the mechanisms will freeze up if they’re not lubricated properly and often.
Don’t turn any screws or take anything apart.
If you do, it can’t be fixed by lubrication only.
Be patient and oil it and work it.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
"Where the stitch numbering is changed, it gets stuck and makes the changes on its own. And where the zigzag is adjusted, it doesn’t move to the left or right. If I want to set it to number 4, it jumps to a zigzag automatically. I want it to make a straight stitch but on the right side. On the right, I want it to make straight stitches, but it only makes zigzag stitches. What can I do to fix the machine and make it work properly?"
"Thank you for the first response."
@@isabelestrada5805 same answer from me as before.
Oil it and work it.
Then……….
Oil it and work it some more.
Do that repeatedly.
It’s a process.
It won’t happen instantaneously,
But it will happen.
Part 2 is here: ruclips.net/video/rmuG8z61J1w/видео.html
👍🏼
😅You'll have a hole in your finger😂
L. O. L. 😂👍🏼😎
You can add a laser line marker to this machine for sewng line
There are some great add-ons and accessories for the machines these days. Make sure the laser is securely affixed so the line is true..