This has been a pain in my butt! Learning more about our bandsaw mill…
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- #bandsawmill #bluecollar #logyard #lumber #familybusiness #woodmizer
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We talked to Woodmizer and they said that the blades shouldn’t be snapping like that. After showing them some pictures of where the blades have been snapping, I’ll let you know what they say.
Em get you a leaf blower that will help blow off your machine. Yall need a stationary fuel tank to fill from.
On my regular horizontal bandsaw the blade will usually snap at the weld.
Hi, Excellent video. Woodmizer may have a solution for the small fuel and water tanks because they do ride on top by the engine.
It really sounds like they failed in the welding or annealing of the weld. Good that you talked to them. I'll bet they have a flawed batch of blades that you obtained. In any event, they should hear about it.
@@bio-techlarry9602 It's possible to add a sight glass to the tank, or I think you can buy a cap with a fuel gauge on it.
Red hair! The eyes, the eyes, the eyes!!!!!! WOW!❤
Yeah, those shocking eyes - Who gets the DNA credit ?
Supermodel/Lumber Sawyer! 🤩👍
Colored contacts??😳
She’s got “tiger eyes” very rare and beautiful
Yea and you can tell she is about as stuck up as they get. Not worth it.
Get a farm fuel tank with transfer pump & long hose w/nozzle that can be locked up . Check blade temp on occasion w/digital thermometer . PM : Surveillance .
Keep a detailed logbook with as much detail as possible: Number of cuts between sharpenings; number of sharpenings; tension on each install; type of wood cut; ... anything you can think of. That is DATA. Then discussing the data with the manufacturer can help them help you.
If you're collecting data, type it straight into an organized computer spreadsheet. You never want to be forced transcribe it again.
xyz, that was the best advice you could give Emerald. Data is very important. I'm sure those gals can set up a spreadsheet. Will save money in the long run.
Try some aftermarket blades… sometimes the manufacturers cheap out and overcharge for “ their “ blades…also get an inexpensive 15 gallon fuel cell with a hand pump and keep #1 diesel in it. They are the handtruck type.
There are only solutions.
@@Dadwithallthecool Do you have any after market manufacturers you can recommend? thanks!
@@lumbercycle136 I don’t. Check on the internet. I don’t own a sawmill, I only worked with a friend who had a LT40 and he had someone make his blades.
Despits setbacks i hope you have a great day and enjoy the rest of the holiday weekend.
Welds are brittle. They need to be tempered/drawn back after welding. The finished weld needs to be heated to a light orange color and left to cool to room temp before filing smooth. You probably know this.
We’ve sawn for a lot of years with a Wood-Mizer. The first thing you want to check is the blade tension. Make sure it is running high enough. These blades are designed with a very high breaking strength. Next, make sure your blades are not running against the back of the roller guides. They should be 1/16-1/8” off the roller guide even when cutting. It sounds like you’ve got stress cracks. Could be a bad batch of blades but doubtful.
You saw mostly hemlock so blade cleaning/lube should not be an issue but if you’re into pine or fir with a lot more sap, you’ll want to run your cleaning solution higher. We have the lube mizer which I can’t recommend highly enough over a drip system. Also, mix Dawn dish washing detergent in with your water. It’s incredible at cleaning pitch off the blades.
It’s possible you may be crowding the blade too much but usually that will show up when you hit a knot with the blade diving into the cut.
Get it girl.
Oh and as for the fuel issues I’d get a fuel cart or mount a transfer tank to a skid or pallet and get extension lines. If woodmizer says distance or height to draw fuel is an issue then just add an inline 12 volt chugger pump powered when the key is on. 👍🏼
Just use a platform ladder. They have to get the water/lubricant up there as well.
@@scottsoperplatform ladder doesn’t resolve frequent refueling due to lack of volume but I hear where you’re coming from, although a ladder like that would more than likely be in the way. They’ll figure something out they always do!
@@Kwhopperfan I would expect that the mil burns one to one and a half gallons of fuel at full blast. (fuel tank looks to be five gallons) So they don't have to get up there all that often. The storage shed is right there so no problem to get the ladder and the extra fuel tank.
Some really good ideas. I think you need to make a list of priorities. Safety is always #1
1. Fuel and water replacement should be made easier. Pushing tanks over your head to empty is physically not safe. That needs to be changed.
2. Monitoring fluid levels is a necessary task. Ask Wood Mizer for advice.
3. Blade breakage can come from two different avenues.
The guides on the side and rear of the blade should be inspected for wear or damage. Check top and bottom guides.
4.Make a log of each blade’s performance. Add notes as to how it functioned. After you have the data contact the blade manufacturer. Show them your written data of each blade. Ask them for recommendations.
If you can get a few blades from another company. Try them as a comparison. This is good so one manufacturer knows you are looking for better blades.
Teaching wood shop for 42 years. I’ve had two companies I wouldn’t buy blades from again.
Have your data when talking to manufacturers.
Good luck
YOUR EYES ARE SO BEAUTIFUL THEY R THE PATH WAY TO YOUR SOUL
You are a smooth operator!
4:01 Wow! Those bicep veins are very noticeable!
Suggestion 1: Buy a couple more 5 gal diesel cans and keep them half full. Suggestion 2: Plan to fuel at mid-day every day, with that half a can of fuel, which will be a lot easier to hoist up there.
You can install site glass kits on those diesel tanks. 👍
Omg those eyes!!
Many years ago I worked in a high rise office building with a small parking lot Peter Folger parked his car there, he was a nice guy he drove a Mercedes Benz with a rabbit as the hood ornament.
when i fill the lt70 i leave the tank on top and lower the saw head to the deck and stand on a 6ft ladder to avoid sawdust. also i run at 80psi and rarely get failures.
The on line WoodMizer video says 80psi.
The reason blades break on band saws its because of the bearings that guide the blade are bad just replace them and the baldes will last a long time .. It was happening to my metal band saw and I found a video on line that showed how to replace them and it worked .
if you have an hour meter you could keep track of that and get some of control on the fuel ,
also large logs take more horsepower than smaller logs that may be a difference in fuel consumption ,it's something to look at ,
watch the break if it's in the weld and still on the factory sharpen ,call them or send it back they should fix or replace it
God Bless from your Canadian Friend.
One of the possibilities of the band failure is from heat stress. The blade is moving a lot quicker then the old 40. If you have a chance have someone hold a heat gun on the blade to see what the temperature is of the blade as it exits the wood. One of the things I hate is dispensing gas with these new government required safety fuel cans. I bought a small battery operated fuel pump. It pumps 2.2 gals. per minute. Seeing the fuel tank on the new mill is on top of the machine. Your going to have problems getting fuel in it by using 5 gallon cans. With the fuel pump you can put the can in the loader bucket and use the pump to tranfer the fuel.
I put my diesel in a 55 gallon plastic barrel, and have a hand-pump on it, with a hose like at a gas station. Works well, but I don't know if there is a place to put it next to the sawmill that would be safe from getting hit by a log or something.
One just uses another WoodMizer fuel tank for that machine. One takes the empty can off and puts the full can on. not filling the tank while on top with a fuel can.
You can see the level through the tank.
I ran an industrial bandsaw in a machine shop 40yrs ago. It had a electric welding tool on the machine. Clamp em close..hit the switch.. buff smooth
The sound of power
from the disel engine
as it is revved up high,
the big blade's teeth go out of sight
and cuts through the log
like a piece of pie
The sawdust piles up
and the logs go down,
as Emerald and Jade
keeps the big saw blade
spinning around.
Good job girls.
The blade breakage is definitely due to the welding process. I used a butt welding machine in Starretts and if the blades were not aligned exactly the weld was weakened. I used to test the welded blades on a reciprocating machine to determine the quality of the weld.
Try a different blade supplier, If you are using water to lube the blade add sssome cheap detergent. As for the fuel. Put the full containers in the bucket of the loader and lift to the height you need and slide them on. It saves you lifting. Great vid as usual.
Your customer with the disk issue is just representative of those folks that do real work for a living. The good news and bad news is that if they can still function, there is no major problem….even if there is one. An example of this is a 75 yr old friend of mine knew I was going to Lowe’s to pick up a load of 2x12s on the roof of my van. He said he was headed to the VA to see a doc about what he thought was a minor cough, and would stop by and help me. Help to him means doing more than his share of the work and afterwards he goes to the VA hospital. They put him in intensive care for a week with a serious pulmonary infection. Some of these folks won’t quit strenuous work until two weeks after they are pronounced deceased.
Get a small Transfer pump. You can sometimes find 12V ones for transfer from tank to tank. Try one of those pumps that install on a drill. Try less tension on the blade and slower feed.
Mark those blades and hours and return to supplier. Possibly a bad batch. Your Butt will be fine!
Add a sight tube to the fuel cells.
One can install a float gauge. Fuel pumps are cheap and easy. Check Harbor Freight.
A whole video with this stunning beauty really my dream woman can we have more videos like this love your eyes they’re mesmerizing 😍😘
If you add a clear tube up the side of the tank penetrating it at the botom, it will give you a gauge.
Make some cheap indicator 2 brass fittings, and a piece of clear hose, one fitting on the top one on the bottom, the hose in between.
So on my LT 40 water tank I cut a neat hole in the top for an ABS shower drain with the drain flange in the tank and a female adapter on top with a threaded cap . Cut two sides flat on the ABS flange to get it in the tank and install with the rubber gasket. No more lifting tank full of water.
I have a hardwood mill gt34 Australian, I had a similar problem with blades breaking out side the log it was a brand new machine and it ended up being the band wheel bearings were faulty even though they felt good .
I also have to say love your channel , all the best from Australia 😊
The blade snapping problem is due to improperly annealed splice joint. When you join the blade together and send an electric current into it, it welds the metal together. When this happens the blade gets cherry red. You then let cool down. After it is cooled down you bring it back to a dull red for 5 to 10 seconds and let cool down (this is annealing). It sound like they are not annealing the blades properly ( joint is too brittal). I do not if this helps or not but I would run the tension at it normal recommended setting.😊
We had some not cut straight and binding in the log and that sucked!! It was an LT 70 Wide!
My first thought is the blades are not made right but the tensioner may have a problem as well. As for the diesel a transfer pump is the answer. Your grandpa can fix you up. Little problems add up to a big nuisance. You can get an aftermarket fuel guage. Keep in contact with woodmizer to see if others are having the same issues. Excellent job ladies thank you for sharing.👍♥️♥️
Hi Emerald and Jade If you google why does diesel amount vary in use you will find everything from dirty components, soot deposits on injectors, storage, age, whether it has been treated with biocides. As for a gauge you could use a small short brass tube through a small hole in the lid then a skewer with a cork on the end through the tube, the brass tube keeps the skewer straight.
The placment of the fuel tank seems odd but gravity plays a part. You need a stair case next to it to fuel up.
Maybe the weld on the blades isn't getting properly annealed at the manufacturer?
try a gas cap fuel gouge and a mirror on a extension..
I work with precious metals at work and use a bandsaw for cutting on one casting machine of ours. I have had times where I will go thru several blades back to back. All breaking at or near the weld. Then all is good for a long time. Since I made no adjustment to tension I always assumed we would occasionally get a few bad blades in an order of new blades. It is like the metal just has a bad spot around the welds probably from the heat from the welding process. One time the company bought a batch of blades discounted to a cheaper price from the same company we always order from and every one broke in a short time.
As long as that saw rig isn't going to be moving around get a bigger remote tank and plum it into the line. If you went to salvage yard you might get a tank off a semi truck with the tank sending unit and mount a gauge on your saw control pod and wala gauge!
AH but the whole thing moves......
After the lumber and the phone call... They're watching you! Always watching!
For the new blades before mounting them on the bandsaw, you may want to anneal the weld joint. To do that you'll need a propane torch. You heat the area of the weld joint until it turns a gun-blue color. Then immediately pour about a gallon of cold water on the heated area until it is cool to the touch. Normally you would drop an annealed metal part into a bucket of water or oil but you can't do that with a large bandsaw blade.
there is hope for the future, thank God, keep up the good work
12 volt transfer pump, set extra tank in wheel barrow
Check the lot number on the blades to see if they came from the same manufacturer run. This could be a problem from the metal prep before welding. The blades are probably spot welded, and back in the day when I was a machinist we also found that the .metal the blades were manufactured from was often inconsistent. We solved the problem by brazing the blades instead of spot welding. If you did braze instead of spot weld you would have to setup the grinder for sharpening starting at the brazing joint each time you sharpened blades. That should not be a problem.
Get a digital thermometer and check the blade temp then find out what the manufacturers temp tolerance is supposed to be for it.
The factory welds may not have been done properly and, after heating up during the cut, are weakened from the heat. This leads to snapping after your cut because it’s cooling down and the weld is contracting, weakening it further and making it snap.
This!
Try running the saw a bit slower and using more cooling water. Blades break when they overheat.
Well for one I really think you guys are great beautiful eyes by the way love watching you ladies and the talks that you have wanted to comment on the blade yeah I think it's just getting too hot maybe it's the cool-down process with the water as well as a lot more power behind that machine putting more torque on the blade and yeah you're right that machine moves fast so that could be a combination of it as well just the blade getting so hot so fast thanks for all your info ladies bye for now😂
A simple fix for gas gauge rig up a led bulb on th top of tank, turn on and it will aluminate the inside of the tank.
we are on the same page!
Dear Scott, I think I understand that several blades have broken, and personally, I find that the log saw control is placed upside down, (which can also cause the blade to break) for the simple reason that Emerald does not see the precise moment when the cutting begins. Therefore, it enters the wood too quickly and gives a severe shock to the blade. Reversing the control station could only be beneficial and would increase accuracy, blade life and even working speed. I say this as an old man's advice, because you alone are the boss. I wish you an excellent continuation, and may God bless you all.
Your eyes are sparkling 😍
In the old days we would fuel and check the oil every day it's called maintenance
Tree sap may be building up on the drive wheels causing an non symmetrical pulling dynamic and tearing the blade from one side.
Get a (larger) custom tank welded up from aluminum with a guage. They make them for trucks and the like all the time.
I think they can make do. A high powered light shining on the tank will likely make it so one can see the fuel level.
You should be able to setup a large tank down closer to the ground with a vehicle fuel pump up to the intake that runs on DC(battery) or via a inverter. Once you get up to a larger sized tank you might be able to have the diesel delivered instead of having to haul it yourself.
No need for all that.
I remember back in Vo-Tech school. we had to weld the blades for our steel band saw. Once you welded the blade you let it cool for a few seconds and then you had to bring it back up to just before cherry red to anneal the welded area. if you didn't do it properly it would be too brittle and it would break at the weld.
I have to agree with a lot of the commentators the welds were not annealed properly, Years ago in the machine shop we welded the metal cutting blades ourselves, when they were not welded and annealed properly they would break every time. Joe Maine in Georgia makes Wood miser blades for many band saws including the LT 70 series. And as others said contact Wood Miser to inspect your saw in case there are other problems, although I do feel the problem is bad welds. Good Luck hope the problem is solved soon... John Toccoa GA
Ethiopia and Kenya have the best coffee.
Those eyes
Mesmerizing for sure, 👍
YES !!!!
Meg Foster👌
@@jimini1976 Yes, Meg had the eyes as well 👍👍👍
@@jimini1976 spot the boomer😄
I had the same problem and it was my blade was hitting on the rollers in the cut and it would snap the blade every time. I adjusted them back from the blade and never had a problem sense.
And for the fuel tank, keeping sawdust out of those tubes, get a couple of pieces of silicone tubeing that fits tight and put a plug in the other end and maybe a hose clamp or zip tie and your set to go easy peezy 🙃🙃
She looks like a model.
What about adding a clear tube on the outside of your tanks that would show the fuel level? There may be an accessory to the connections from the manufacturer to show the level with a clear glass or plastic tube.
The blades are breaking and are probably not lasting very long due to the blade material being out of specification. I would be that the band material in too hard. After heat treatment to harden the steel a second heat treatment is performed to temper(soften)the steel to allow the metal to readily bend and flex without cracking.
Contact the blade supplier to complain about your problems.
Joe Peace
A knowledgeable combination of statistical process analysis, process control capability, and machine nomenclature would greatly enhance your productivity. It's a learning curve... 🤔 🇺🇲
Blade has a defect during blade manufacturing, improper welding. Probably using resistance welding with improper heat inputs. This is typical in other industries
Nice, was afraid you found a tick 😅. Play and have fun 🎉
There could be Stress fracture in the weld and the best way is if Woodmizer did the stress check at the factory if there not doing that well it could be bad if somebody got injured by one of there blades
keep at it lumberjane
They usually replace them if they break at the weld . You should not be seeing wear on the back of your rollers . The wheels might need a little tweaking
What if you fill the tank in the morning before you start, fill it right after you come back from lunch, fill it at quitting time when you clean oil, and grease before you go home. My guess would be your power feed is too fast for the blade speed. But, I have only run my band mill with manual feed, so I would not know. I do know, you don't need quite so much shiny stuff to look nice. God gave you good looks, Hope you find a nice hubby.
Make sure there is not a buildup on the drive wheels. It could take a while for the buildup to find the weld a snap it.
How much did the customers load weigh?? Check the temperature of the blade.. The snapping is likely due to rollers out of alignment, Either the drive pulleys or guide rollers.. The blade is not staying in position and moves when the force of the cut is removed.. possibly trying to ride up the the pulley edge.. check all roller alignment,, you'll find it.. AND A cheap electric battery operated pump can be safe for diesel.. auto shut-off valves and float gauges should be easy to adapt.. ..
As for the diesel better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it and Grandpa was right the first place you should have looked was at the weld and you Irish girls are the prettiest 🤠🐝
There are so many good suggestions for solutions from great followers in the comments here, it must be because of the beautiful eyes. Wood-Mizer is definitely familiar with the problem of weld seam breakage and can give you good advice. This is a good company with a lot of experience, I'm sure. As my solution to the problem, I would suggest showing Jade's pretty eyes too.
I finally figured out who Emerald reminds me of,,,,,,Younger Meg Foster 🤘😉🤘
Could be the manor factor Defect in the Blade
Watch the "Motor Oil Geek"
"Change your motor oil"
You may be able to splice in a tee and attach a clear tygon hose and run it up along the diesel container. Grandpa can figure that one out. Also does sound like manufacturing defects in the blades.
Back in my day of back injury and back pain we didn't have no stinkin cell phones to interrupt us when we were workin hard. Obviously his back was working when he got the call...Stop answering the phone! 😁
After I finish a cut I shut down the blade and lift it before I move the cutter head back for the next cut. Just a little cool down time I guess.
I got the coffee !!!!!!
I'm a brand new subscriber love your channel you guys are so beautiful inside and out I love your Israeli star tattoo on your arm that looks so cool blessings from Martinsville Indiana Jesus saves
Others also suggested it but I would put a sight glass on tour tanks since you always use the same ones. You can get snap in or screw in fittings for your plastic tanks to carry a clear polycarbonate pipe so you can see the diesel level. Polycarbonate will withstand reasonably rough treatment. The other option is a float gauge - you would have to fabricate your own since I doubt they make one for a small tank like that. Piece of PVC pipe that will fit in the top opening with a smaller diameter piece that can slide inside it filled with foam and containing a slim aluminum rod. Mark the rod with red tape at 20% intervals.
or just shine a bright light in the tank. If the light is bright enough, it is likely that you will be able to see the fuel level.
Where I work, our band saw broke a blade every two to three days
We figured " cheap materials" was the cause. We finally got some quality blades that lasted a long time. Aggressive cutting requires much experience to know when to back off a bit
I hope you are able to find the cause of the blades breaking soon. I mean let alone the down time and the expense of the blade those things are scary and dangerous.
I am happy to hear that Woodmizer has been notified and recognize a problem exists.
Have a great afternoon and an even better holiday weekend.😉
Maybe look into getting your blades cryogenically treated. My carbide metal blades last almost 3 time longer if they’re treated.
😂😂😂😂
I’m dying over here
Yeah, Costa Rican!!!
i keep a transfer tank on a pallet within reach of the mill
Old fuel oil tanks have a simple float mechanism. Bet grandpa could make it work..
about the blades get them water-cooled, you can just add a water pump like on lays
The blades are already cooled by water. That is what the white tank on top is about.
When blade comes out of the log, when? Seconds? Temperature balancing? Harmonic vibrations from no load in combination with the contraction from cooling. Blade tension, less can cause oscillation and vibration when blade is unloaded.
Ever thought of buying a bigger tank for fuel, with a guage at least 10 gallons. Then using a smaller 12V transfer pump you can tranfer from another tank to the top tank. The blade breaking could be from several reasons not dealing with the wood. Have you check all the breanings and guides to make sure the are running true? The blade guide could be cut too small, single thickness runs ok but at the weld the thinkness is too much for the blade guide. Good Luc, Love watching You and Jade
There is already a lot of weight on top there. I don't think it a good idea to add more weight with a bigger fuel tank.
That is the most natural monologue I have ever heard you do on camera. Honestly, sometimes I see you and Emerald a bit awkward talking to the camera. I'm sure the fact that you really know what you are talking about makes it so natural (and comfortable). Nice Job! (I even liked your commercial at the end🤪)
Oh, and about the blade. I'm guessing that the blade goes much faster than before, thus creating more tension. Now the fact that the break is after the "cut" sounds like some kind of dampener misadjusted responsible for softening tension release when the blade exits. With no damping of the release it creates a whip like tension. Instead of cracking the whip, it's a failing of the weld.......(or its just bad welding....HA)
You need JOE LANE SILVER TIP TURBO 7 BLADES!
I don't like how the LT70 bounces up and down and jiggles around because of the weight of the diesel motor.
I wonder if it creates extra tension on the blade and that's what is making them break sooner?
I would love to see an all electric version of the LT woodmill. It would be great to eliminate all that weight from the motor
and fuel tank. And less maintenance too and fuel savings.
An electric motor making that bhp would be a heck,of a lump.
The wiggling we see has no effect on the tension of the blade.
they don't have power at that site,IIRC.
@@JayWye52I think I would be considering having a usefully sized diesel genny installed and then you could get rid of the myriad of gas and diesel engines powering everything. Three phase too for the big saw.
On your fuel issue, I suggest a fuel barrel or tank with a pump and hose that will reach the mill tank for refueling. Then make it a procedure to refuel mid-day and end of day. That way you will not run out of fuel but don’t need to frequently check the level. Whatever you need to bring up the tank level to full at mid day will keep you well supplied. The hose and nozzle will be easier and safer than lifting a full tank.
I think they are better off without the extra complication. A platform ladder putting them waist high to the fuel and water/lubricant tank would likely make that easier. Also a high powered light shining in the fuel tank would likely make it so the fuel level could be seen from the control station.