Star Trek Discovery 1:1000 Scale U.S.S. Enterprise Build Series Pt 1
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- In this video I'm getting started building the newly released 1:1000 scale
Star Trek Discovery U.S.S. Enterprise model kit from Polar Lights. We begin with prepping the parts for assembly and then apply light blocking paint to prevent light bleeding through the plastic when the lighting system is added. 
Хобби
I'm so happy you're working on this. This is the first kit I've considered buying in years. 1/1000 is a much more manageable size, ant it seems like a truly deluxe kit.
I'm with you on the "silver" thing, Boyd. To me, large areas of silver paint always look toy-like. I loved what you did with the Invaders saucer. SPOOKY!
Good stuff. I received mine plus the light kit. Very well engineered.
Good on work, on what looks like a really nice kit!
Love the way you plan out your kits .
I really enjoy that part of doing a build. It's challenging sometimes especially on the older models that were not designed for lighting. I've had to do some crazy things to make it work.
You are not dragging a leg! Great progress.
One could easily build this model over a weekend. Especially if you use the plug and play lighting kit. It'll be torture having it done only to have to wait for the aztec set to be released which might be weeks or months away. :(
You are off and running with this! Like what you have done so far!!
Ha, yeah pretty excited about it and I sounded like I was high on caffeine in the video. Which I was! Gotta remember to slow my roll when I do my videos.
Most often, that very subtle "pebble"-like texture on plastic comes from the manufacturer using spark-erosion to cut the original moulds, and then not bothering to polish the finished mould afterwards.
You could pass it off as Space Pebble damage that the Main Deflector missed.
As Mr. Spock would say, "Fascinating" .
Got mine last week! Looking forward to build Boyd.
Cool man, I'll be watching when you get to it.
Nice one Boyd!
This is so much better than that other kit that while a lovely kit was just too small for myself. This one looks far better.
I subbed to your channel and I love your content. I've been a Star Trek fan since I was a kid and I did build some models of the ships with my grandfather. Great vid!
wow, Boyd, that's fabulous! Nice work on the bussards. I wasn't sure how you were going to handle that, but they really turned out great. I can't wait to see more. It's nice seeing some Trek builds!
Thanks Matt, yeah, I'm pretty happy with the bussards considering how small they are! I've been spoiled working on the big stuff.
Really cool modifications Boyd.
Very cool ENTERPRISE I also like the design I'm a classic trek guy myself great job so far 🖖
Thanks, it's going together very nicely so far.
Looking great. A lot of hard work going into it :)
Thanks Kenny, I spent most of the time modifying the bussard parts to get the lighting in there. All of the rest is going pretty quickly. I do wish they would have molded the kit in white though. Raytheon lighting for some of the flood light areas would look great. It turns out due to the angles of the openings that you can't get that look with putting in LED's there. :(
It'll be interesting how you do the Dome I really enjoy your videos I got mine last week I'm still working on it it's just a static model I have another one ordered with the lighting kit and Aztec decals so I'm looking forward to lighting l it this first one I just wanted to put it together
I also like steel wool (I think you turned me on to it a few years ago). A few months ago I realized that wrapping a magnet with a tissue and waving it over the model was very useful for removing tiny steel wool fragments before painting.
I just use compressed air but that's a good idea :)
Really like the build so far! I don't like the bright silver look either. For my 1/2500, I went with a darker duraluminum over straight gray primer for more subdued satin look.
I was going to ask ‘Is white best to coat the inside?’ A few friends and I used silver as it’s good. I don’t use foil for it shorting.
Ah, just listened to all the video. Thank you for that great tip. White it is then.
You’re best Boyd.
One of the easiest models I've ever put together! I used the Polar Lights lighting kit made just for this model. No modification needed. The instructions say to use super glue to fasten the LEDs to the mounting points but it doesn't hold. I used Scotch tape. Next time I'll try hot glue. I just wish PL would come out with a TOS Enterprise lighting kit. It would also be nice if the plastic was thick enough to block the light without painting the way some Japanese refit Enterprise models have.
A few years ago I built all of the Bandai Star Trek models that came with lights. They are excellent kits with fantastic paint detail. Only thing I did was replace the old type wheat bulbs with LEDs.
Yeah think I might use strip LEDs for my internal lighting as well, as I'm really not feeling the blueish color of the PL light kit.
I can't wait to see how yours looks!
I commend Polar Lights for designing their new model kits for lighting and for offering easy to use plug & play lighting kits for people who don't want to dig into themselves.There are a lot of people who are not hard core modelers and are just Star Trek fans that want a lighted model. Modelers can easily modify and add their own lighting too so everyone is happy. I'm fine with that and I hope they sell a ton of them as it's a win/win for all of us.
1701-Refit...sitting in the closet. NX-01... sitting in the closet. New Discovery 1701...soon to be sitting the closet. Thanks man, there will soon be 3 kits I won't be able to do as well as yours. :D
You never know unless you try........ :)
@@TrekWorks You are correct. But I only started my first ever model in Sept of 2019. My first lighted one was only this year (Romulan BOP for my Dad's 68th bday). Just seems like such a big jump and I'm actually having a tough time jumping from 1:72ish (Star Wars) and 1:1000 (Star Trek).
I did custom lighting on my Dad's BOP and he loved it. But for the NX-01 and Refit are much larger and I may save myself some trouble and go with TenaControls. NX-01 first (I've watched your videos). Anything I should watch out for?
@@christopherh4653 It's been awhile since I built the NX but I remember you have to pay attention to the alignment of the back half of the ship. If you line it up with the locating pins the whole rear section and engines will look slanted down when you look at it from the side. I cut off the pins and glued it while I had it all on a flat surface.
@@TrekWorks That makes complete sense. I think I remember you mentioning a jig? Was that in the videos? Also, do you have a preference on lighting kits? Seems TenaControls comes closest.
@@christopherh4653 I used a kit from Monsters in motion for my NX but I would go with the Tenacontrols kit if I were to build it again.
You sound very excited about this kit. I got mine about 2 weeks ago and wanted to start on it right away but I'm working on a1000 scale TOS and the 350 scale TOS Enterprise at the same time. I emailed Ralph and asked if he was going to do a lighting kit for this kit and he said he had to do some research so I may wait to see what he comes up with. I'm also curious to see what comes out on the aftermarket. Keep on modelin.
I'm giving some notes to Ralph about this kit so maybe he will come out with a kit. His motors work perfectly for it.
@@TrekWorks I love his stuff I have the kit for the 350 TOS Enterprise and the motors work so well and the buzzard lights, just gorgeous. I have you to thank for turning me on to Tenacontrols. Thank you so much. I'm having a ball building Star Trek kits. Keep on modelin.
I've used Neopixel Jewels (and generic WS8212 disks) for the "bussard" collectors instead of motors on other ST kits. Silent and you can quite easily program the colour and speed effects to taste. Neopixel strips in the nacelles of this kit would look very nice - a simple marquee chaser program could be used to drive the lights. Surprised Ralph doesn't offer this type of RGBW programmable lighting. These lights require a microcontroller and a little bit of code but it is quite easy, adds dynamism to the subject and it's fun.
So I thought I would provide some guidance to anyone wanting to paint an accurate DSC Enterprise. I have provided an accurate paint guide below.
Of course the first rule of painting a model, is doing it however you want. I'm not saying you have to do what I'm laying out here. I'm just providing information to make the most accurate to the CG model, if that is your goal.
The Round 2 instructions say to paint the hull a gunmetal, but the CG Enterprise hull is not metallic, at least, most of it isn't. It's just a darker gray than we're used to.
The only parts that are truly metallic are the silver sensor band across the saucer rim, the metallic accents on the front of the pylons, and of course the gold deflector dish.
The main hull itself is RGB: 149,149,149. The darker hull accents and rings are RGB: 94,94,94. I translated those numbers to the closest paint equivalents, and came up with these...
Main Hull
FS 36270
Mr. Color 306 Gray FS36270 (what I'm using because it's semi gloss)
Tamiya Sky Grey XF-19
Testors Model Master Neutral Grey FS36270
Vallejo Model Air 71.275 FS36270
Mig Ammo A.MIG-211 Medium Gray
MRP Haze Grey MRP-AO64
Mission Models MMP-118 Medium Grey
AK Real Colors Medium Grey RC249
Darker Hull Accents
FS 36081
Mr. Color 301 Gray FS36081 (What I'm using because it's semi gloss)
Tamiya XF-87 IJN Grey
Testors Model Master Euro Gray FS36081
Vallejo Model Air Seaplane Grey 71.314
AK Interactive Grey FS 36081
MRP Dark Gunship Grey FS36081
Now, on a 1:1000 model, these colors may appear a little dark, so I think I'm going to lighten them up a bit with some white. So anyway, there's a starting point for you.
Great research and thanks for sharing it here.
Thanks! I'd been doing quite a bit of homework on this the past few days and went from originally thinking it was metallic to finally leaning towards it simply being more of largely a semi glossy gray color.
Its on my list. I went with titanium silver on the 1/2500... if you go too dark with the base color the aztec decals end up blending in a bit too much. Found that out building the Schenzhou... its ok but would have looked better with a brighter base so i brightened it up on the Discoprise.
I hope it's not too long of a wait for the decal set.
Thank you for doing these videos.
I'll be building my model soon. I found a mask for the aztec pattern I am going to try and all the masking for the windows. Even found a bridge I need to paint. Any advice on how to paint such small parts?
I want a 1:350 USS Reliant darn it!
Good words.
I'm totally following this same process. I was wondering, you have a lot of painted surfaces inside the model did you scrape off the paint from the mating surfaces and what kind of glue are you using? For the windows, did you use the flat white to frost them?
Excellent work! Say, I recently screwed up one of the motors in my lighting kit and may have to come up with a way to replace both of them now if I can't get a replacement from Polar Lights. Could you possibly tell me what motors you're using it post a link to them? They look about the right speed. Thanks.
since I saw this version of the Enterprise at the end of season 1, I really wished that this was the actual design from the original show.
I love watching all your videos! The detail you give and the explanations is amazing!!! Where do you get your translucent paint at? Is there a brand you like best?
Its Tamiya translucent. Amazon.com carries it.
@@edlamb9940 Thanks! :D
What was your ratio for thinning the folk art pewter? You mentioned you poured straight into the airbrush with some water
On the flat black, is Krylon good for that? I have a can and don’t want to waste
Do you have a video of how you paint the orange transparent on the buzzards so well? Or some other transparent part that would be similar?
Do you have a link to where you got the light effect parts? Thanks.
I just got my kit. I like the color you chose. I was thinking of adding more light to kick it up a bit. so liking what you are doing with it. What was the lighting board did you use?
What base are you using?
I'm late to the conversation, but I have a question about the model. I'm placing the Aztek decals on the under saucer first. I rested the top of the saucer half on a towel, similar to what TrekWorks is doing here -- when the bridge dome popped off and fell inside the model! Yikes! When I hold the saucer upside down, I can get the bridge dome to "fall in". Guess I need something to yank it down until I can superglue the dome back in place. So don't push down too hard!!
Another build series for me to follow when I build this kit.
Boyd, could you give details on the process you used to paint that gold deflector? It looks really nice and shiny. Very metallic.
I painted it with a brush using Folk Art craft acrylic paint called Chocolate Brown metallic number 2570
@@TrekWorks Folk Art paints are great. I restored my first three Enterprise models with them.
Is there a possibility to get a list of paints , lights, leds so forth , tools to be able to make this. I'm very new to all this. Your's looks more realistic to the other modelers that used the kit. I love the way the lights are with yours.
I'm in agreement about the silver. But how do you determine it? I am not the best with color.
Does anyone know the answer to this? I purchased both this 1/1000 Enterprise and the 1/1000 Enterprise "Space Seed" version both from Polar Lights. The Space Seed Enterprise is quite a bit smaller than this kit. Anyone know why? Which ship is not correct?
@TrekWorks If this scales with the original AMT kit then the scale is misleading then. And I wonder how this kit would look with the TOS color scheme of gray along with the aztek decals?
First time builder question: did you mask the model at all while putting on the paint in this video? Maybe it doesn't matter because you'll paint over it again? I'd be scared to put black paint on the outside, no?
One thing I just noticed with this Enterprise (and all DSC ships) is that the strobes just slowly fade in and out instead of blinking or flashing like we're used to. But I'm guessing Tenacontrols doesn't have a board for that yet.
There are fading LED's and SMD's available. I used one for the Cylon Basestar I just built. To to keep them synced together, you can use one as a master and wire another to it in series, it can be a regular LED or SMD and it will fade in time with the master. No need for a board.
@@TrekWorks Oh cool, I hadn't considered that. Thanks. I'll check out your Cylon video then.
Hi Boyd, I've enjoyed following this build as all your other build which I've always come away learning something new each time. I would like to ask the size of the SMD you used and refer to at min. 20:48 to 20:54. Thank you again for your informative and instructional video. Be Safe and Healthy during this times we live.
that would be an 0805 size.
I been waiting for this ship to come out, looking great, what happen to showing the new design base? I am not a fan of those plastic soup bowel bases
I don't have it yet. It will be shown at the end of the build series. Hopefully that won't be too long because the aztec decal set for it hasn't been released yet.
I really hope thay bring it out in 1/350 sale. Any word on that? Fantastic work as always sir.
I doubt that we'll see this model in 1/350 scale. It would be almost 2 feet longer than the TOS or the Refit. I think those 2 ships are the limit in the size that they will produce made of plastic.
@@TrekWorks awww gutted. Thank you for the reply. Love your work very much.
Folk art discontinued the Pewter color. Do you have another suggestion? Thank you.
Boyd any chance you can cover the power supply on your bench a little bit in your video at some point, im looking to pick one up just not sure what i should be looking for
I got mine off of ebay. The specs on it are dc power supply 15 volt 30 amp max output which you'll never come close to needing BTW. Even a big 350 scale Enterprise with all of that lighting only draws about 1.5 amps at 9 volts.
Most are Chinese made an around around $50 plus shipping. I've had it for years with no problems.
Hey, is the 1/1000 scale Enterprise model, bigger then the 1/2500 scale Enterprise model? Just curious.
where did you get the Blinking Light board for navigation lights
www.tenacontrols.com
What Color did you use to Paint your because i was thinking of using Tamiya Flat Aluminum with a drop or two of Black to Darken it a bit for the Main Hull Color ?
I used Folk Art craft acrylic pewter no. 99232. It's almost an exact match to the plastic color.
@@TrekWorks what Tamiya colors you think could be mixed to make that color ?
@@p.j.c.2.0 The only Tamiya paints I use are their transparents for doing the colored lighting so I'm not familiar with the others they have.
@@TrekWorks Well Thanks for trying to help looks like i'll have to try and find the right Color Mix.
I'm still trying to find the 1:1000 U.S.S. Enterprise refit. Gonna need to get this one too. BTW, I have the decals of the other ships.
Try www.hdamodelworx.com I have been able to find a lot of Star Trek kits and decals there. Also www.hobbylinc.com
When I am scuffing the model with steel wool, what am I looking for? How do I know I've done enough scuffing?
Scuff the surface until it looses the shine and looks dull.
Hey Boyd, I love your builds and appreciate the amount of information you share! I would like to ask the specifics of your flasher board and motors from TenaControls. Ralph makes some awesome stuff but there is a lot of it on his site. Could you give the model numbers you're using. Also, what is "Solar Res"? , the stuff you used on the formation lights on the saucer? Thanks abunch and I look forward to following you on your build!
I was wondering the same things...what specific motors and Sola resin?
@@MichaelLattanzi Micheal, here is a reply from Tenacontrols "Yes we sell the two motors for $32.00 + shipping to destination. In the United States, it's $9.00. Send an email to sales@tenacontrols.com in order to receive a Paypal invoice. Please let us know what country we are shipping to."
As for the Solarez; try searching for this "Solarez UV Cure Hard Finish Doming Resin - for DIY Jewelry Making Casting & Coating (2 Oz)." Beware, it is expensive and the 2 oz bottle price does not include the UV flashlight.
Hope this helps.
@@stephenhartzell3534 Excellent, thanks so much for the info!
I have this kit i wish it was a larger scale i guess i got spoiled by the 1/350 Enterprises & i didn't notice if the ship have the classic green & red navigation lights & strobe lights anywhere? The PL light kit doesn't have any🤔
Someone said that on the show the navigation lights on this ship fade on and off. I'm going to do the regular blinking lights with a board I already have. There are fading LED's available so you could do it that way without a board. Use 1 fading LED and wire more regular LED's to it in series and they will all fade off and on at the same rate.
@@TrekWorks i think I'm going with the classic blinking lights also... it might not be accurate but so what😁 it wouldn't be the Enterprise without them🖖🏾
“Plug it in and Go.” That’s me!
Yep. I'm the guy who just pays someone else to do all the work. I already have a job that takes up most of my time. And I do that job to have the money to buy my toys pre-built.
I'm Thinking about giving mine a 10''x 20'' size Display Base with a Mirror Base because i'm using a 10''x 20'' Shadowbox Frame for another Model i'm working on and i test fitted my Discovery Enterprise Model and looked to see how it might look on that kind of Display Base and it looks like the model WILL look GOOD on that kind of Display Base ... Maybe you could do a Base like that Boyd.
Jerry is designing the base, I'm helping out the effort by giving him feedback about the buttons and functions it will have. He will be offering them on his website later on.
@@TrekWorks I like to make my own Display Base's and a Shadowbox frame gives a good starting point all I do is fine the size I want if I can if I can't I'll go with whatever size that's close enough then I take out the glass piece and order a Acrylic Mirror cut to same size as the Glass once it gets to me I just drill the holes for the mounting rod and the buttons and either Epoxy Glue or Hot Glue the Acrylic Mirror and Buttons in place for me it's gotten fairly simple.
this is what the jjprise should have looked like
the problem the dome base what come with model tube is ok but the base itself there hole top side but not bottom side for wired can run through you drill out same size hole boyd
Would love to see TMP style aztec color decals for this. I love the design but the metallic color profile just doesn't do it for me.
I might try that, by painting the five colour Pearlescents on the Aztec Decals.
Is it me or is the size of the bridge really off here? The bridge takes up what was the bridge plus the B and C decks on the TOS ship...
A lot of people have said that. That front window that's suppose to be the view screen I think, is about 3 decks tall
where the bridge interior view looking out looked like it was 7 or 8 feet tall. It is odd.
@@TrekWorks It really throws off the scale of the model; especially since its supposed to be so much bigger than the TOS Enterprise.
I'm gonna try and paint mine white and see how that looks. Not a big fan of the gray color
Hey...where the heck are ya Boyd... you doing ok Bro? Haven't seen any updates lately.
you should send a letter to polar lights about that pebble issue.
It's really not as bad as I made it sound and most modelers probably won't even notice it. I'm just really picky about painting my stuff.
@@TrekWorks Is it something that would affect how well the decals sit on top, depending on how thick they are?
Yeah... I think I'm gonna commission a model builder to build one for me.
So I basically discovered that the Dupli-Color Clear Coat you have destroyed my base coat. I have a lot of clean up to do from that which is unfortunate. And reddit replies I got was "why would you use a solvent clear coat for car wheels on an acrylic paint? Of course it destroyed your base coat." ... Why wasn't your base coat ruined? I got some folkart paint I could try but I don't know how to insure the same clear coat won't destroy my base coat again. =( Out of curiosity why do you mix water instead of thinner with the FolkArt and what kind of ratio is your mix? Plus the metallics always seem to constantly clog the airbrush for me... Any information is appreciated! I've been having a rough time learning..
Folk Art craft paint is water based so thinning with water works fine. I thin it down to the point where it will spray without clogging my airbrush. No exact ratio. I've mentioned on several of my videos that you have to run the paint through a fine paint strainer after you thin it. It's micro sized chunks of hard paint that are clogging your airbrush. Make sure the paint is totally dry before you put the clear over it and do that with light even coats as needed.
@@TrekWorks Thank you! I've been watching a lot more of your content. Its become clear im not going to just watch one video on whatever im working on... But your help on the journey is making it all much better. Thanks for your videos.
Just a comment for the
algorithm.
At 18" it's about 700 scale. Unless you buy into the stupid JJ-verse sizes which nobody does.
Motors are loud.
The motors are not that loud in person. In the video I'm putting a camera with a sensitive microphone right up against it.
Trying to get a hold of you to request a commission for a TOS 350 enterprise… Please PM me.
Yeah,
I don't like the silver, either, Boyd.
I prefer the original flatter color of the TOS Enterprise.
They just overdo it with the colors and details on the newer designs. A lot of it just looks tacky and less artistic to me.
This is a decent hybrid design of the Classic Enterprise but honestly they could have reintroduced the Matt Jefferies orignal with a bit more detail and far less changes than we see here. Yes, I prefer sweptback pylons that look stronger the original pylons but I dislike the silver colors, the overly prominent Aztec lines, and too many carry-overs from the Refit. The subtlety gets lost in a lot of the post-TNG designs. The Refit shouldn't even be the original Enterprise, IMHO, but Gene Roddenberry was a romantic and less of a realist and definitely no naval engineer...
When I sat down and interviewed Richard Taylor who had a big hand in designing the Enterprise Refit for STTMP, he had some interesting comments about the conversations he had with Gene concerning the ship. Richard was not a Scifi guy going in and his Dad was an aeronautical engineer. To him, the entire design didn't make any sense and he originally proposed a radically different shape which would actually function according to known physics. Gene immediately shot them down and always insisted that the ship retain it's saucer, pylons and twin engine shape. Richard admitted that it was the right way to go and also given the idea that in the future there might be technology there that allows for a shape like that to work in space.
Yeah, I don't like John Eaves, either. He was my absolute least favorite Trek artist, making everything look all "Xtreme!" with everything designed like they were bundles of knives hanging off of other knives, with knives glued on top and then some knife shapes cut out of the knives, and... when I first saw the Shenzhou I just deflated because I instantly knew that Eaves was on the project.
@@TrekWorks In space, the shape doesn't matter unless you're designing a vehicle that transitions between orbit and an atmosphere. In that sense, the only manned space vehicle we've designed that has had NO CONSIDERATION for atmospheric flight is the lunar module -- no heat shield, no provision for recovering ANY part of that vehicle in the atmosphere. All the other manned capsule spaceships built by the US were cone- or gumdrop-shaped to create atmospheric to slow them down during re-entry. The Space Shuttle had wings to help it glide and extend the range it could travel for landing.
My beef with the Enterprise Refit is that it MAKES NO SENSE. It's so radical that they would never do this in real life. It makes a lot more sense just to design a new ship and build that from scratch. They just don't recycle like they did in ST:TMP in real life because it's not efficient and actually takes more time than building a new ship from keel up! When they do refits, the basic hull and engines remain. It's too expensive to tear down the ships in most cases to change the engines. The hull designs of many ships rule against extensive refits and teardowns. The engines are part of what limits the service life of a ship in the long run. If the powerplant holds up, you're good. When that goes, the economics of a rebuild rule against keeping ships in service. They don't tear down the entire hull; they replace and strengthen worn areas but not the entire skin generally. Superstructure may be altered but you don't do a total rebuild of a vessel unless it's made of wood and is below a certain size.
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There was a Star Trek comic of all things that posited an alternate reality where Kirk was dismissed from Star Fleet as a lieutenant and Pike retained command of the USS Enterprise/NCC-1701 until it was retired after the Five Year Mission (2264-2269). The NCC-1701 was placed in the Smithsonian orbital dock as a museum ship and replaced by the NCC-1701-A in service which WAS the "Refit" ship (new-build; new design that premiered in The Motion Picture). That NCC-1701-A, btw, didn't survive the storyline. The Enterprise-A was destroyed with the loss of Pike's crew (which were virtually the same crew Kirk had before reality was altered with the addition of Saavik) before the Prime Reality with Kirk in command of the Enterprise was restored.
@@AvengerII Ahh but the center of gravity does matter in space. For example on the Enterprise the center of gravity would be the engineering hull. You have points of thrust from either the impulse engines or the warp nacelles. If say you engaged the impulse engines which are away from the center of gravity, the ship would tumble around the center gravity point. The same thing with the warp engines. This is why space vehicles are designed with the main thrust emitting from as close to the CG as possible. Retro thrusters are used to make corrections to keep that thrust as near to the CG as possible and prevent tumbling. If the Enterprise used thrusters to correct the CG offset they would have to be equally powerful to the main engines which doesn't make sense. Also, the Enterprise can't fly in an atmosphere on impulse power. It's shape will not create any lift, only drag. It's assumed I guess that the ship has some type of anti gravity system on top of it's main engine thrust. Technically it shouldn't even be able to turn or bank like it does. But hey it looks really cool.
@@TrekWorks "It's assumed I guess that the ship has some type of anti gravity system on top of it's main engine thrust."
Yes, they call this the Infinite Improbability Drive in The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy.
They just call it warp drive or hyperdrive in Star Trek and Star Wars because they don't want to discourage kids from joining NASA! Yes, we WILL go to the stars in our lifetimes. Wink, wink!
STD is not Trek.
"WOW" Boyd you sure can talk, good video, maybe a little less talk and maybe some more hands on how to stuff,
Yeah, I even noticed myself when I was editing the video that I was really chattering on it. Too much caffeine.
The problem I have with shooting extended bench working stuff is that I film in HD which takes a tremendous amount of time to process and I have a pretty good PC. One of my typical 30 minute videos is usually 15-20 gigabytes of video files. My first few years doing this it was low def and so it wasn't a problem. When I do the working stuff on the bench now, I stream it live, that way it goes straight to you tube without me having to do anything. When I do a regular video I have to talk a lot to cover everything I did off camera. It's always a challenge for me to do that and keep a reasonable pace.