You mentioned that honking big coil. It is the output inductor that filters the output of the AC sine wave inverter, which starts out as a high frequency PWM signal and is filtered to remove the high frequency components. Bluetti usually does a pretty good job of this. Bigger and inductor, lower noise. Physics!
Can you set the charge battery level up to a certain percentage like stop charging when 80% charge is reach and then set it to turn off the whole power station when 20% battery level is reach? I have seen that kind of feature on the Ecoflow River 2 Max which is handy when you want your battery health good for a long time.
Nice tear down…it does look nicely engineered. I have the AC180 and I have been using it as a UPS at home. Only complaint is the fan is loud even when set to “silent”. If they offer firmware updates I’m wondering how that would be done with this unit. Would be nice if the fan speed could be varied…perhaps if it came on at a slower speed earlier in the temperature spike as opposed to coming on at higher speed after the internal temp has gotten x degrees above threshold.
Funnily enough I've been using it as UPS as well. I agree, I'd rather have it start off slowly with the fan, rather than hit X degrees and go full power. Which it does even when not under load but just sitting in idle UPS. I've also noticed you have to disable AC and DC power saving timeouts, for it to not turn itself off.
Update to my woes: I reopened up the AC180. there are 30 cells at 3.2V. So 96V fully charged. My battery is at 33V. It very discharged. My AC180 is not turning on. It is not charging. There is life, as a green led comes on @ the bms when you short the power on pins or push the power on button on the controller. I disconnected the battery from the BMS, hooked up my scooter charger (42V 5amp) directly to the battery and I am charging it up right now. I am monitoring battery heat and charger heat. So far everything is nice and cool. I am gonna bring it up to 42V and see what happens. Maybe it will turn on and take a charge. In the video, you said you got 29V at the battery? That sounds dead, like mine.
It's possible that the voltage I got is from the BMS when 'off' and it's outputting a voltage the rest of the system sees as off. It's odd that your BMS would let the voltage get that low. Let us know if it comes back to life.
@ so far nada. I brought the pack up to 42V and no dice. This pack is 96V, am I reading this correctly? Or no? When i tried to jump start it with 54V it got to 44V and very warm so i backed off and same results. Pushing the power button turns the green led on the internal bms board on stays on for 30 seconds, turns off. Charging the 40v + got the bms internal led to blink slowly and thats it. Refuses to take charge from the dc jack. AC charge port archs when plugged in so its def drawing power but nothing else happens. Lastly, when I took it apart again it dropped right back down to 33v. I don't understand what this thing is doing
@@johnr1166 mine doesn't have the sticker, after chatting with somebody else here in the comments you are absolutely correct. So my unit's issues have nothing to do with state of charge unfortunately. I carefully jumpstarted the battery monitoring it to making sure it didn't get hot. It's fully charged. I'm starting to feel like the issue is with the transistors on the BMS. When I have the main battery voltage prongs disconnected from the inverter board/control board, but the little canbus connector from the control board plugged into the BMS, and I plug in AC, the green power button lights up and flashes green, but the unit still doesn't turn on when pressed. The second that I bolt the bms main voltage connectors to the inverter/control board, the power button goes off and stays off. No amount of pressing it or plugging in AC, plugging in DC wakes the unit up. To me that signifies that the BMS board has an issue. I also have Epson printers and I know what they do when the transistors go out on the main control board . What are the chances that they are the issue here? I am grasping at straws, I guess , but blue Eddy doesn't support products that are not purchased directly from them. And I'm not talking about free warranty repair. I'm talking about paid repair. They just refuse to do it . I wish I had known this prior to purchasing one of their products worst case scenario I am going to post it on eBay and sell it off.
Hi and thanks for posting, can you tell me if it has its own built in Solar Controller or does that need to be built in the solar panels or purchased separately. Cheers
Great video 👍 One thing I would love to know . Is it possible to charge this with a Orion-Tr Smart 12/24V-15A Isolated DC-DC Charger⁉️ Powering through the solar input
I was wondering if you can help me. I have an AC180 that doesn't turn on. It does not charge. a green led comes on internally on the battery board when you push the power button and that's it. It won't charge AC or DC. The main battery pack is at 32V-33V. I noticed yours was 29V and it said it was at 42%? Do you know what the voltage of the battery is suppose to be fully charged? I am thinking of charging the battery pack itself to boost it, and maybe that will make it kick on? Same way you revive a car battery that is dead. a quick jump charge and then the charger picks it up and charges it correctly.
Will you modify the AC input to include the earth so every time you plug the AC cord to charge that will always be earthed? Is it doable? Was there a earth terminal on the AC input so you can just tie them all? I want mine that every time I charged it that it is always grounded and no extra effort separate earthing.
I can help answer this one as I have tested a unit. You can turn off the unit via the app, which will shut everything down, including charging. But you will also lose Bluetooth connection and won't be able to restart or start charging the unit from the app.
Intesting difference in cell size vs the AC200P, which contains 160 26700 cells in a 16S 10P arrangement. I think I prefer the larger cell as there are less potential points of failure. Similar construction between the two units. Top notch in most all respects.
Enjoyed the video. However was hoping you might have attempted to start your diesel heater using the 12v socket s you tried and failed with an Allpowers device. Would be interested to know if the Bluetti is up to the task. Cheers.
The reason they don't connect the grounding screw in lug and the ground pin of your AC plug is there's always a danger of having a "hot" ground depending on how the main house power panel ground is wired. I've seen this before.
I have a new AC180 (April 2024). The AC grounds (AC Input, 4 Outputs, Ground Lug) are all connected within a tenth ohm. Think about it, in UPS mode it would be pretty bad to have a floating ground on the 4 receptacles. Use a meter to probe the AC receptacles and you might be surprised by what you see. Also AC outputs do not appear to be ground fault protected. The DC commons (DC input, 12V DC output, USBs) are all connected together but not directly connected to the AC Earth Ground. There is probably a capacitive connect between earth and common. This is not uncommon.
Great review David. AC 180 released in Australia on May 15. Do you reckon the earth wiring is a dealbreaker, as I would like an AC180 but not if the wiring has been done by people who don't know what they are doing, or maybe by the work experience kid! Once again, thanks for the great review.
You wouldn't be able to buy this specific variant in Australia, at least shouldn't be able to. The regulations here require the earth pin in the sockets to not be connected at all, except where the device has built in RCD functionality. That the earth pin is connected and presented via that screw terminal on the outside of the case to permit attachment to an earth rod or the like is a big no-no. As this variant stands the unit would be setup to operate as an IT class generator.
@@retrozmachine1189regardless, these guys know what they’re doing and they cannot be questioned. I can’t find any downside to any of the construction on this generator. It is virtually perfect and shows the craftsmanship by Bluetti.
Temperature is always a tricky thing for the power stations. Obviously the cold affects the chemistry and how well they operate. In the winter I've had them not start diesel heaters and not take a charge. Not this AC180 in particular as I haven't had a winter with it yet.
Hi David useful video, thanks. Is there anyway to remove the bluetooth module? I bought this to be "off grid" and it doesn't help having bluetooth on 24/7. Cheers
I have other Bluetti's and they always fail me on mildy chilly mornings at camp. I'd be curious if this is the same. 50-60 degrees F (10-15 C) I plug in a portable kettle pulling 650-700 watts, it runs for a few seconds, and then instantly drops to zero perfect charge. I have to put it on the charger for an hour or two before it "remembers" it was fully charged. This is well within the operating temp range by the way.
@@lua-nya Yea. I’ve been back and forth. They don’t seem to understand the issue and keep sending me the same troubleshooting steps over and over. No matter how I’ve explained it or how many times, they always respond with some version of “Try it in warm temperature” and “cold weather effects battery life.” Which again, battery life is not the problem. It’s some kind of issue with the BMS, but their Support seems to be seriously lacking.
My uncle throws a small blanket over the coffee machine at night, so that first thing in the morning, it works. Could try a small blanket cover etc at night so that in the morning they may just be working without delay
@@Thergood if you have this sort of issue, you should be using very heavy insulation. I think you should be insulating everything that can be insulated in your entire life. Every single thing should be insulated. There is this saying that you can never insulate too much… I would recommend some bubble wrap with reflective foil (reflectix). Double bubble wrap is ideal.
Great breakdown .... With regard to light, I would have actually liked there to be a muted light bar as seen on the Eb55 and some of the ecoflow models .... Useful when camping
Looking for a way to run a small air compressor. It runs at 7amp 240v. Out of the power packs and generators. What do you think would run it? I'm using a coil nailer, and runs it quite hard.
1700W is doable for the bigger power stations. It's the inrush current of the compressor motor that usually upsets them though. As it might pull something like 3000W for the first few seconds. The Anker 767 will start and run my 50L compressor, but it's also old and I have no idea the specs. :)
Great tear down video and so pleased to learn how well made they are. I’ve Had mine for a few months now, it lives in the car and yes it’s heavy but so far reliable, the winter months will test the cold performance as I also use them for defrosting the frozen windscreen using a 750watt hair dryer activated by Bluetooth when I’m in the house, I just need to leave BT on overnight.
You can't turn the AC180 on with the app. You will need to turn off echo mode and use a Bluetooth outlet. As far as cold performance you could try putting a 12-volt seedling mat under it if it gets too cold.
About the grounding - I don’t know about the UK but in the US it is against code to ground a device at more than one point. regardless of code it’s a really bad idea because you can create a ground loop. Ideally, you would want the outlets to be connected to the AC grid ground (and not the post) when the AC180 is plugged into the grid, and only to the grounding post on the device the rest of the time. I guess that’s too big of an ask.
Nice video, Sir. I understand it's better not to use one of these as UPS because all onboard electronics works on battery, and so it will constantly recharge itself from 99% to 100% again and again. Is this correct?
I have found this yes. I was using it as UPS for the laser engraver and laptop as I didn't want a power failure. But even with the laser and laptop turned off, it would still periodically run the fans (quite loud). Not the end of the world but something to keep in mind.
@@goclunker Yep 60 cells x (3.2 V x 6 A) =1152 Wh 15 cells will give 48V Bluetti is always using that configuration 3.2 V per cell is the low side of the voltage range . I still guess.
Just crunching numbers, 5x6 (cell numbers), 30, multiplied by 3.2v nominal cell voltage, 96v (so not right), divide by three, 32v, so, 10x series cells by 3x parallel (10S3P) arrangement, now if you will excuse me, my brain just overheated, it doesn't like doing maths... :P
Should be 10S6P as there are 60 cells rather than 30 cells. It's 2 layers of 5x6 as each cell is 70mm tall for a 32700. Also, 6P * 6Ah/cell * 32V = 1152Wh.
@@HuyLe-qc8jc how many volts is the pack supposed to have? I have a broken one of these. I'm just trying to figure out what to do with it. The positive and negative main power connectors are at 35 V now
@@goclunker LiFePO4 cell voltages are 3.6V at 100% charging, 3.4V at 100% resting, 3.2V at 50%, and 3.0V at 10%. Multiply by 10 and you should get 34V when resting at 100% and 32V at 50%. You would need to discharge the battery to see how much energy it actually contains. Maybe something other than the battery is not working.
@ thank you for your reply. That makes perfect sense. So here is what happens when I plug AC into the bluetti with the BMS plugged in, but the battery physically disconnected from the two contacts the green power button starts flashing. It then turn solid green, but it doesn't turn on the LCD stays off. If I connect the positive and negative from the BMS to the circuit board in the bluetti, the power button doesn't turn on at all. If I plug the bluetti in to AC with the canbus connector between the BMS and the main inverter/circuit board disconnected, nothing else happens. The batteries are now sitting at 34 V so they are definitely charged. That's not the issue. You are absolutely correct. I think the BMS is dead, maybe it's the transistors that are on the BMS. You can see them in this video. I bet that's where the issue is judging from what happens with Epson printers. I don't know what to do with this thing.
The reason the earth of the unit is separate from the mains input, is to prevent a short circuit in the unit from earthing to the mains grid. They should not be connected! This is islanding. If your unit develops a fault, it should go to its own earth NOT to your house earth anywhere. If an electricicy employee was working on the grid somewhere on an isolated supply, and your unit was made to earth to the mains nearby they would be electrocuted by the unexpected supply of electricity.
You mentioned that honking big coil. It is the output inductor that filters the output of the AC sine wave inverter, which starts out as a high frequency PWM signal and is filtered to remove the high frequency components. Bluetti usually does a pretty good job of this. Bigger and inductor, lower noise. Physics!
Can you set the charge battery level up to a certain percentage like stop charging when 80% charge is reach and then set it to turn off the whole power station when 20% battery level is reach? I have seen that kind of feature on the Ecoflow River 2 Max which is handy when you want your battery health good for a long time.
ff hoping we can make this settings on bluetti..
The last "O" denotes that it is a round shape 32 x 70 round.
700 x1/10 mm. This follows the convention of button cells where 1632 is 16 mm diameter X 3.2 mm high.
Nice tear down…it does look nicely engineered. I have the AC180 and I have been using it as a UPS at home. Only complaint is the fan is loud even when set to “silent”. If they offer firmware updates I’m wondering how that would be done with this unit. Would be nice if the fan speed could be varied…perhaps if it came on at a slower speed earlier in the temperature spike as opposed to coming on at higher speed after the internal temp has gotten x degrees above threshold.
Funnily enough I've been using it as UPS as well. I agree, I'd rather have it start off slowly with the fan, rather than hit X degrees and go full power. Which it does even when not under load but just sitting in idle UPS.
I've also noticed you have to disable AC and DC power saving timeouts, for it to not turn itself off.
I’d guess firmware update would be through the app
@@mrkim5644 It is, you just have to login. It won’t let you update firmware in offline mode.
Compared to The Ecoflow delta 2 the 180 is very quiet !
Cheers for the excellent video! Great to see it's not using an AC power brick to charge like the older models.
This pleases me also. It's fairly easy to replace a 3 pin IEC cable if you forget it. Not so much a complete charger.
My ac180 is on order. Should arrive in a week! My first lifepo system
Update to my woes: I reopened up the AC180. there are 30 cells at 3.2V. So 96V fully charged. My battery is at 33V. It very discharged. My AC180 is not turning on. It is not charging. There is life, as a green led comes on @ the bms when you short the power on pins or push the power on button on the controller.
I disconnected the battery from the BMS, hooked up my scooter charger (42V 5amp) directly to the battery and I am charging it up right now. I am monitoring battery heat and charger heat. So far everything is nice and cool.
I am gonna bring it up to 42V and see what happens. Maybe it will turn on and take a charge.
In the video, you said you got 29V at the battery?
That sounds dead, like mine.
It's possible that the voltage I got is from the BMS when 'off' and it's outputting a voltage the rest of the system sees as off.
It's odd that your BMS would let the voltage get that low. Let us know if it comes back to life.
@ so far nada. I brought the pack up to 42V and no dice.
This pack is 96V, am I reading this correctly? Or no?
When i tried to jump start it with 54V it got to 44V and very warm so i backed off and same results. Pushing the power button turns the green led on the internal bms board on stays on for 30 seconds, turns off.
Charging the 40v + got the bms internal led to blink slowly and thats it.
Refuses to take charge from the dc jack.
AC charge port archs when plugged in so its def drawing power but nothing else happens.
Lastly, when I took it apart again it dropped right back down to 33v.
I don't understand what this thing is doing
@@DavidMcLuckiei don't know what its doing. Its like yours, hovering around 33V and nada.
On my Uk spec unit, the label on the rear shows its 32 volts * 36 ah = 1152 Wh capacity. I believe there are 60 cells in total.
@@johnr1166 mine doesn't have the sticker, after chatting with somebody else here in the comments you are absolutely correct. So my unit's issues have nothing to do with state of charge unfortunately. I carefully jumpstarted the battery monitoring it to making sure it didn't get hot. It's fully charged.
I'm starting to feel like the issue is with the transistors on the BMS.
When I have the main battery voltage prongs disconnected from the inverter board/control board, but the little canbus connector from the control board plugged into the BMS, and I plug in AC, the green power button lights up and flashes green, but the unit still doesn't turn on when pressed. The second that I bolt the bms main voltage connectors to the inverter/control board, the power button goes off and stays off. No amount of pressing it or plugging in AC, plugging in DC wakes the unit up.
To me that signifies that the BMS board has an issue.
I also have Epson printers and I know what they do when the transistors go out on the main control board .
What are the chances that they are the issue here?
I am grasping at straws, I guess , but blue Eddy doesn't support products that are not purchased directly from them. And I'm not talking about free warranty repair. I'm talking about paid repair. They just refuse to do it . I wish I had known this prior to purchasing one of their products worst case scenario I am going to post it on eBay and sell it off.
Hi and thanks for posting, can you tell me if it has its own built in Solar Controller or does that need to be built in the solar panels or purchased separately. Cheers
Will it run a Diesel heater⁉️
Yes easily
Great video 👍
One thing I would love to know . Is it possible to charge this with a Orion-Tr Smart 12/24V-15A Isolated DC-DC Charger⁉️
Powering through the solar input
That's exactly what Paul and I are going to try on his Landcruiser shortly.
@@DavidMcLuckie great news 👍
It will only max out at 8 amps
@@zodaguado6655 you must use the correct cord end or you WILL only get 8 amps.
I was wondering if you can help me. I have an AC180 that doesn't turn on. It does not charge. a green led comes on internally on the battery board when you push the power button and that's it. It won't charge AC or DC.
The main battery pack is at 32V-33V. I noticed yours was 29V and it said it was at 42%?
Do you know what the voltage of the battery is suppose to be fully charged? I am thinking of charging the battery pack itself to boost it, and maybe that will make it kick on? Same way you revive a car battery that is dead. a quick jump charge and then the charger picks it up and charges it correctly.
Will you modify the AC input to include the earth so every time you plug the AC cord to charge that will always be earthed? Is it doable? Was there a earth terminal on the AC input so you can just tie them all? I want mine that every time I charged it that it is always grounded and no extra effort separate earthing.
thanks for great job. just wondering is it possible turn charging on and off by app with wifi? thanks
I can help answer this one as I have tested a unit. You can turn off the unit via the app, which will shut everything down, including charging. But you will also lose Bluetooth connection and won't be able to restart or start charging the unit from the app.
@@solentice thanks a lot bro
Just use a WiFi plug to turn it on
Intesting difference in cell size vs the AC200P, which contains 160 26700 cells in a 16S 10P arrangement. I think I prefer the larger cell as there are less potential points of failure. Similar construction between the two units. Top notch in most all respects.
Thanks for your awesome videos David
Enjoyed the video. However was hoping you might have attempted to start your diesel heater using the 12v socket s you tried and failed with an Allpowers device.
Would be interested to know if the Bluetti is up to the task.
Cheers.
The reason they don't connect the grounding screw in lug and the ground pin of your AC plug is there's always a danger of having a "hot" ground depending on how the main house power panel ground is wired. I've seen this before.
Not because of internal earth-neutral bond?
Thank you for the video. Is there any chance to disable Bluetooth by disconnecting a Bluetooth module? Or is it soldered in the main board?
I have a new AC180 (April 2024). The AC grounds (AC Input, 4 Outputs, Ground Lug) are all connected within a tenth ohm. Think about it, in UPS mode it would be pretty bad to have a floating ground on the 4 receptacles. Use a meter to probe the AC receptacles and you might be surprised by what you see. Also AC outputs do not appear to be ground fault protected. The DC commons (DC input, 12V DC output, USBs) are all connected together but not directly connected to the AC Earth Ground. There is probably a capacitive connect between earth and common. This is not uncommon.
Great review David. AC 180 released in Australia on May 15. Do you reckon the earth wiring is a dealbreaker, as I would like an AC180 but not if the wiring has been done by people who don't know what they are doing, or maybe by the work experience kid! Once again, thanks for the great review.
It's likely there will be a reason. It wouldn't stop me using it though.
You wouldn't be able to buy this specific variant in Australia, at least shouldn't be able to. The regulations here require the earth pin in the sockets to not be connected at all, except where the device has built in RCD functionality. That the earth pin is connected and presented via that screw terminal on the outside of the case to permit attachment to an earth rod or the like is a big no-no. As this variant stands the unit would be setup to operate as an IT class generator.
@@retrozmachine1189regardless, these guys know what they’re doing and they cannot be questioned. I can’t find any downside to any of the construction on this generator. It is virtually perfect and shows the craftsmanship by Bluetti.
@@ZxAMobile Wouldn't be the first time that an 'unquestionable' product has been recalled because it turns out it wasn't standards compliant.
Anybody know what kind (Wtt) of parasitic drain?
20watts p/h when idle.
You mean like Congress ?
Which power station brand js built the best for reliability?
So far DJI seems to be the one that has gone all out on the build.
@DavidMcLuckie thanks. I need one with 2kwh and around 1 hour charging. I see dji is only 1kwh. Might you have a next best suggestion ? Cheers !
@@roberts8783 Bluetti or Anker as my second choices.
Question. Can I run a 1400 watt kettle on a cold morning @ 5 to 6 degrees? And do you think it will die in 20 mins at this temp?
Temperature is always a tricky thing for the power stations. Obviously the cold affects the chemistry and how well they operate.
In the winter I've had them not start diesel heaters and not take a charge. Not this AC180 in particular as I haven't had a winter with it yet.
Do you repair power packs
Great video
Thanks
Hi David useful video, thanks. Is there anyway to remove the bluetooth module? I bought this to be "off grid" and it doesn't help having bluetooth on 24/7. Cheers
My dc and usb ports stopped working say short on panel front
Has anyone tried adding to battery pack? Increase capacity but keep everything else intact.
great job David
I have other Bluetti's and they always fail me on mildy chilly mornings at camp. I'd be curious if this is the same. 50-60 degrees F (10-15 C) I plug in a portable kettle pulling 650-700 watts, it runs for a few seconds, and then instantly drops to zero perfect charge. I have to put it on the charger for an hour or two before it "remembers" it was fully charged. This is well within the operating temp range by the way.
That's odd. Tried discussing it with support?
@@lua-nya Yea. I’ve been back and forth. They don’t seem to understand the issue and keep sending me the same troubleshooting steps over and over. No matter how I’ve explained it or how many times, they always respond with some version of “Try it in warm temperature” and “cold weather effects battery life.” Which again, battery life is not the problem. It’s some kind of issue with the BMS, but their Support seems to be seriously lacking.
My uncle throws a small blanket over the coffee machine at night, so that first thing in the morning, it works. Could try a small blanket cover etc at night so that in the morning they may just be working without delay
@@Thergood if you have this sort of issue, you should be using very heavy insulation. I think you should be insulating everything that can be insulated in your entire life. Every single thing should be insulated. There is this saying that you can never insulate too much… I would recommend some bubble wrap with reflective foil (reflectix). Double bubble wrap is ideal.
If you plugged into the house commons then as grounded through the commons
Good stuff 👏👏
Great breakdown .... With regard to light, I would have actually liked there to be a muted light bar as seen on the Eb55 and some of the ecoflow models .... Useful when camping
Looking for a way to run a small air compressor. It runs at 7amp 240v. Out of the power packs and generators. What do you think would run it? I'm using a coil nailer, and runs it quite hard.
1700W is doable for the bigger power stations. It's the inrush current of the compressor motor that usually upsets them though. As it might pull something like 3000W for the first few seconds. The Anker 767 will start and run my 50L compressor, but it's also old and I have no idea the specs. :)
Jasonoid runs a small pancake compressor as part of his review of the AC180. You might want to check it out.
@@DavidMcLuckieI’m curious, does the turbo charging is bad for battery? Should we do eco only? Ty so much!
Great tear down video and so pleased to learn how well made they are.
I’ve Had mine for a few months now, it lives in the car and yes it’s heavy but so far reliable, the winter months will test the cold performance as I also use them for defrosting the frozen windscreen using a 750watt hair dryer activated by Bluetooth when I’m in the house, I just need to leave BT on overnight.
You can't turn the AC180 on with the app. You will need to turn off echo mode and use a Bluetooth outlet. As far as cold performance you could try putting a 12-volt seedling mat under it if it gets too cold.
Sorry I'm wrong. I was thinking of turning the unit on. You can't do that with the app but, you can turn on the AC outlet. My bad!
@@halholland1637so how would this be implemented and operated and what source of power ?
If you get the ac180P, I'd be interested to know how they pack in more power for the same size&weight ?
About the grounding - I don’t know about the UK but in the US it is against code to ground a device at more than one point. regardless of code it’s a really bad idea because you can create a ground loop. Ideally, you would want the outlets to be connected to the AC grid ground (and not the post) when the AC180 is plugged into the grid, and only to the grounding post on the device the rest of the time. I guess that’s too big of an ask.
UK regulations prohibit the sharing of the mains supply earth with generators.
“1400 watt - yeeeesss!”.
Nice video, Sir. I understand it's better not to use one of these as UPS because all onboard electronics works on battery, and so it will constantly recharge itself from 99% to 100% again and again. Is this correct?
I have found this yes. I was using it as UPS for the laser engraver and laptop as I didn't want a power failure. But even with the laser and laptop turned off, it would still periodically run the fans (quite loud). Not the end of the world but something to keep in mind.
1152 Wh / 10 cell x 3.2 V gives 36 A gives 6 rows of 6 A these with 10 x 6 A cells in serie explains it all. I guess
There are 30 cells @ 3.2V each.
@@goclunker Yep 60 cells x (3.2 V x 6 A) =1152 Wh 15 cells will give 48V Bluetti is always using that configuration 3.2 V per cell is the low side of the voltage range . I still guess.
thanks - great job :D
Just crunching numbers, 5x6 (cell numbers), 30, multiplied by 3.2v nominal cell voltage, 96v (so not right), divide by three, 32v, so, 10x series cells by 3x parallel (10S3P) arrangement, now if you will excuse me, my brain just overheated, it doesn't like doing maths... :P
Should be 10S6P as there are 60 cells rather than 30 cells. It's 2 layers of 5x6 as each cell is 70mm tall for a 32700. Also, 6P * 6Ah/cell * 32V = 1152Wh.
@@HuyLe-qc8jc how many volts is the pack supposed to have? I have a broken one of these. I'm just trying to figure out what to do with it. The positive and negative main power connectors are at 35 V now
@@goclunker LiFePO4 cell voltages are 3.6V at 100% charging, 3.4V at 100% resting, 3.2V at 50%, and 3.0V at 10%. Multiply by 10 and you should get 34V when resting at 100% and 32V at 50%. You would need to discharge the battery to see how much energy it actually contains. Maybe something other than the battery is not working.
@ thank you for your reply. That makes perfect sense. So here is what happens when I plug AC into the bluetti with the BMS plugged in, but the battery physically disconnected from the two contacts the green power button starts flashing. It then turn solid green, but it doesn't turn on the LCD stays off. If I connect the positive and negative from the BMS to the circuit board in the bluetti, the power button doesn't turn on at all. If I plug the bluetti in to AC with the canbus connector between the BMS and the main inverter/circuit board disconnected, nothing else happens. The batteries are now sitting at 34 V so they are definitely charged. That's not the issue. You are absolutely correct.
I think the BMS is dead, maybe it's the transistors that are on the BMS. You can see them in this video. I bet that's where the issue is judging from what happens with Epson printers. I don't know what to do with this thing.
Yeah,!!!!
Well done bluetti for having the 240v red and black power cables on a 12v male and female bullet connector NOT
After a brief Google and a look at some specs for generic bullet connectors, I see they can be rated up to 600V and 27A. So I think we'll be ok.
The reason the earth of the unit is separate from the mains input, is to prevent a short circuit in the unit from earthing to the mains grid. They should not be connected! This is islanding. If your unit develops a fault, it should go to its own earth NOT to your house earth anywhere. If an electricicy employee was working on the grid somewhere on an isolated supply, and your unit was made to earth to the mains nearby they would be electrocuted by the unexpected supply of electricity.
Excellent explanation, thank you.
If you can't fix it, break it and throw it in the trash.......
If you can't leave an intelligent comment, just be like you