Brian Andrews is correct, although I would recommend the 608 2RS with rubber seals. Better dust protection. The part in the bracket (@10:50) is a bushing, not a bearing, unless this is the miracle machine). The same 608 2RS (or ZZ) bearing will fit in the bracket after you pry out the retaining ring and remove that cheap garbage. Otherwise, an excellent video on the process! I got a 10-pack of 608 2RS bearings on Amazon for 10.00 USD. Took 15 minutes to replace the bushing with a bearing. Machine sounds like new. Nice edits and info.
If the noise soon returns, pull it back apart and remove the upper motor bushing bracket. Looking up at the bottom side, measure the circular area of the bracket that houses the brass bushing and retainer clip. Odds are, it is the same diameter as the 608z bearing. If so, you can pry off the bushing clip, remove the bushing and install your other 608z bearing in place of the bushing and your problem will be solved for many, many years!
If the bearing feels good like you said, and you are in a pinch and need the machine, carefully pry the rubber seal out. If lots of dried grease in there, clean out with carb cleaner or brake clean, and careful use of compressed air. (Don’t forget gloves and eye protection here) Pack some grease in, a moderate amount, no more than half full. (Those bearings seem to come from the factory with amazingly little grease, chances are it will look completely dry inside) Many ball bearings and tapered roller bearings are replaced unnecessarily, when they just need a cleaning and lube. For the bushing, more often than not, they are made by pressing powdered bronze, so the bushing is actually porous. Put a fingertip on the bottom end of the bushing, hold the bushing upright, fill it with light oil ( 10w30, 3 in 1, whatever you have handy. Not 80w90 tho, it stinks!! ) press another one of your fingers onto the top end of the bushing, sealing the oil in. Squeeze so your finger pushes in, this forces the oil back into the porous bushing, refilling the tiny spaces. Release, drain the oil, you should be good to go for a long time.
Usually the ball bearing is fine, which you noted, but the sintered bronze bearing is bad. A 608 bearing will fit right in its place. You may need to slightly shim it, it’s typically slightly loose in the boss. Shim it with actual shim stock or an aluminum beverage can can be used to cut some shims. You don’t want that outer race spinning in the boss! See: ruclips.net/video/pvIoLe883JE/видео.html
Brian Andrews is correct, although I would recommend the 608 2RS with rubber seals. Better dust protection. The part in the bracket (@10:50) is a bushing, not a bearing, unless this is the miracle machine). The same 608 2RS (or ZZ) bearing will fit in the bracket after you pry out the retaining ring and remove that cheap garbage. Otherwise, an excellent video on the process! I got a 10-pack of 608 2RS bearings on Amazon for 10.00 USD. Took 15 minutes to replace the bushing with a bearing. Machine sounds like new. Nice edits and info.
Did you have to press your bearing on the shaft? The 608 just fell on the shaft of my shop vac. Mine looks like it takes a 1603 bearing instead.
Hmmm....from what I remember I don't think I needed a press.
In order to keep the bearings clean you need a new dry filter. Looks like someone sucked up concrete dust with the wet sponge
i suck in anything and everything...so I'm sure it was caused by the operator....me. :)
If the noise soon returns, pull it back apart and remove the upper motor bushing bracket. Looking up at the bottom side, measure the circular area of the bracket that houses the brass bushing and retainer clip. Odds are, it is the same diameter as the 608z bearing. If so, you can pry off the bushing clip, remove the bushing and install your other 608z bearing in place of the bushing and your problem will be solved for many, many years!
Thanks!
If the bearing feels good like you said, and you are in a pinch and need the machine, carefully pry the rubber seal out. If lots of dried grease in there, clean out with carb cleaner or brake clean, and careful use of compressed air. (Don’t forget gloves and eye protection here) Pack some grease in, a moderate amount, no more than half full. (Those bearings seem to come from the factory with amazingly little grease, chances are it will look completely dry inside) Many ball bearings and tapered roller bearings are replaced unnecessarily, when they just need a cleaning and lube. For the bushing, more often than not, they are made by pressing powdered bronze, so the bushing is actually porous. Put a fingertip on the bottom end of the bushing, hold the bushing upright, fill it with light oil ( 10w30, 3 in 1, whatever you have handy. Not 80w90 tho, it stinks!! ) press another one of your fingers onto the top end of the bushing, sealing the oil in. Squeeze so your finger pushes in, this forces the oil back into the porous bushing, refilling the tiny spaces. Release, drain the oil, you should be good to go for a long time.
Usually the ball bearing is fine, which you noted, but the sintered bronze bearing is bad. A 608 bearing will fit right in its place. You may need to slightly shim it, it’s typically slightly loose in the boss. Shim it with actual shim stock or an aluminum beverage can can be used to cut some shims. You don’t want that outer race spinning in the boss! See: ruclips.net/video/pvIoLe883JE/видео.html
Thanks! good tip!
thank you sir !
Most welcome!
Still noisy
mine got quieter but not as quite as I thought it should of been.