Thank you for your videos - we've watched almost all of them! How do you deal with using non-Ikea undercabinet range hoods that are most often made for a 12" cabinet depth? We have a kitchen that will need to vent to the inside (ductless) and we'd like to get a range hood from a local store. Is there a proper way to space out the hood by the 3" so it sits out beyond the cabinet to vent properly?
Are your pillars built with ikea cover panels or painted plywood? If it’s ikea panels how do you avoid visible nail or screw heads where the pieces join?
They are panels. I use a 21 gauge Brad nailer. There are tiny nail holes. I didn’t fill these ones but you certainly could. Just need to get paint matched so you could color the filler of choice
Excellent vid. Do your fillers stick out a bit to match the depth of a closed door? Ie when the door is closed the filler will be flush with the door. I think idea doors open on themselves & don’t open extending in the next cabinet.
Thanks so much for the reply. Yes I agree. I have assembled one door to the cabinet to confirm using the 110deg hinges. I have mounted to the wall & cabinet (flush) some strips of wood I cut down to attach the filler to. Once the door is closed the filler panel will be flush with the door for a continuous look. I’ve seen most vids not doing it this way & I think they are missing the point of ikeas design.
Excellent Idea. I’m planning a kitchen reno in the spring and want to install a larger fridge than what I have now but not sure if I will buy the new fridge right away. I’m using a second hand customer kitchen that is virtually the same foot print as my exiting kitchen. I will have to change add/remove some components of the new kitchen to make it fit the way I want it to (ie incorporations my wine fridge and a very narrow end cupboard for floor vac. I refaced my kitchen about 11 or so years ago with a carpenter I knew and it’s total garbage. I will be able to use about 85% - 90% of the new (used) kitchen cabinets and doors but the counter top is granite and will need some alterations (more$ ) and it’s not the look I want either but it would work aesthetically for now. I also want to paint most of the cabinets doors and keep the wood but restain about 20% of them... this I can do myself. I do question how much I would really be saving over buying a whole new kitchen however a full custom kitchen I not in the budget. I hear a lot of good things about IKEA kitchens but I can’t get my head around the quality perception in my head and the desire for a really custom look in the end. The company that made the kitchen I want to use is local for I’m confident I can get them to make me the pieces I need. Your video has giving me some great ideas about how to make this work with spacers etc.. and how to install them with design considerations. Many thanks for that! Any thoughts or advice?
Thank you for your videos - we've watched almost all of them! How do you deal with using non-Ikea undercabinet range hoods that are most often made for a 12" cabinet depth? We have a kitchen that will need to vent to the inside (ductless) and we'd like to get a range hood from a local store. Is there a proper way to space out the hood by the 3" so it sits out beyond the cabinet to vent properly?
What gauge nailer do you recomend for building the custom fillers
Wow, very nice work!
Much appreciated!
Are your pillars built with ikea cover panels or painted plywood? If it’s ikea panels how do you avoid visible nail or screw heads where the pieces join?
They are panels. I use a 21 gauge Brad nailer. There are tiny nail holes. I didn’t fill these ones but you certainly could. Just need to get paint matched so you could color the filler of choice
Excellent vid. Do your fillers stick out a bit to match the depth of a closed door? Ie when the door is closed the filler will be flush with the door. I think idea doors open on themselves & don’t open extending in the next cabinet.
Yes the fillers are flush with the doors. Looks more custom that way.
Thanks so much for the reply. Yes I agree. I have assembled one door to the cabinet to confirm using the 110deg hinges. I have mounted to the wall & cabinet (flush) some strips of wood I cut down to attach the filler to. Once the door is closed the filler panel will be flush with the door for a continuous look. I’ve seen most vids not doing it this way & I think they are missing the point of ikeas design.
I have tried this however I am unable to open my microwave door it hits the fillers now I have a huge gap what other option do you recommend?
The microwaves should come with a spacer block that spaces it off the wall so the door doesn’t hit the cabinets or fillers.
Excellent Idea. I’m planning a kitchen reno in the spring and want to install a larger fridge than what I have now but not sure if I will buy the new fridge right away. I’m using a second hand customer kitchen that is virtually the same foot print as my exiting kitchen. I will have to change add/remove some components of the new kitchen to make it fit the way I want it to (ie incorporations my wine fridge and a very narrow end cupboard for floor vac. I refaced my kitchen about 11 or so years ago with a carpenter I knew and it’s total garbage. I will be able to use about 85% - 90% of the new (used) kitchen cabinets and doors but the counter top is granite and will need some alterations (more$ ) and it’s not the look I want either but it would work aesthetically for now. I also want to paint most of the cabinets doors and keep the wood but restain about 20% of them... this I can do myself. I do question how much I would really be saving over buying a whole new kitchen however a full custom kitchen I not in the budget. I hear a lot of good things about IKEA kitchens but I can’t get my head around the quality perception in my head and the desire for a really custom look in the end. The company that made the kitchen I want to use is local for I’m confident I can get them to make me the pieces I need.
Your video has giving me some great ideas about how to make this work with spacers etc.. and how to install them with design considerations. Many thanks for that! Any thoughts or advice?
Thanks for sharing. Don’t think there’s much to add. You have thought about this and pre-planned well. Best of luck !