Hi Jaden, nitrification is happening within 6 weeks typically, but for systems to hit full stride with nutrient availability, and a balanced overall ecology (not just nitrifying bacteria), it's usually at least 6 mo.s. These systems are like wine, they get better with age, typically due to diversifying ecology and nutrient accumulation. Regarding water changes- that's news to me. I've been running the same water for 8 years now. :)
Thanks for subscribing, Reis Family! We're committed to continuing to create and publish this type content for our loyal, passionate RUclips subscribers. Thanks for the great feedback and stay in touch!
Hey Rich, we run our system 24/7, but you don't have to! You can run it on a timed cycle if you want. Filling and draining every 6 minutes is not too fast, but you could slow it down if you want to save a little more money by using a timer (again, not required!).
Great to hear, Chippy. Sounds like you're on the right track with doing your homework first. Having a well-designed system from the start is MUCH easier in the long run.
Hey Ryan. Thanks for your nice feedback! Yes, circulation is always a little limited with square tanks with rounded corners. However, the space efficiency with square tanks far outweigh the decreased circulation. It's a slight trade off, but one we would definitely make. Geothermal works well! We use it sparingly, but if there is an emergency, it's super nice to have on hand!
This is part of what hooked me on aquaponics you and the rest of the community giving good information to help peple get started. I will start cycling my system tomarrow. I owe it all to you and the rest of the people who have given much of themselves and then give it back to the people Thankyou
We recommend that everyone monitor ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature daily in their systems (at least until the system is mature). Once it's mature it becomes very stable and predictable. These days we check these system variables only once or twice a week, if that (with the exception of temperature).
Hi, You can usually run the nitrates up to around 160 ppm before your fish start to notice. I would recommend shooting for a range between 20 and 80 ppm. Much higher and your aphids will get out of control. Nitrate is relatively non-toxic. Nitrite is deadly.
Hey Tom, there is a ratio to fish to biological surface area. There is basically a maximum number of plants that a certain amount of protein introduced to the system can support. Your fish ratios should be around 1# per 8-10 gallons. Your biofiltration (for most medias) should be around 1-to-1 tank volume to grow bed volume. The Number of plants you can fit into the grow bed will really depend on how much feed you feed to the fish. Thanks for the question - It can get a little complicated!
Hi Robert, The reality is much more complicated than that. The reality is that there are tons of different nitrifiers that operate optimally at different pH ranges, and bacterial biomass can offset reductions in efficiency. At the end of the day, each system has it's own nitrifier composition that is adapted to the variables in that system. The biggest thing is to keep the system stable. I'll do a Vertical food blog post on low pH nitrification soon.
It usually takes around a year to get the microbial communities established to the point where they're stable and efficient- once they reach this point and nitrification is stable (assuming there isn't carbonates built up in the system) your pH will start to drop in response to efficient nitrification, giving you complete control over what pH range you run your system at. Check out our stocking density video to see how many fish to stock/gal.
Keep these videos coming. I have never seen informative videos such as these. Please get into the science part of AP. I like it when I know why its a good idea to have a lower pH, not because someone that's been doing AP for a long time says its so.
Awesome! I've been researching and thinking about aquaponics for a while now. I've decided on the design for my first system (3 IBCs) and now starting to think about water quality, etc. etc.
The best way to lower pH is to increase nitrification and feeding rates. But, if your water is coming out at pH 8-8.2 and only working down to mid 7's over time, then you might look at installing an RO filter. They can be fairly inexpensive (typically costing a couple hundred dollars for a small to midsize system) and they're definitely a good investment on the front end rather than struggling and fighting pH over the long run.
Well, you can stock at higher densities, but you're typically threatening your system stability. There are lots of variables to consider before increasing densities. More nitrate can be good, or bad, depending on the situation. It takes many more nutrients to grow a plant!
We try to keep our pH between 6-6.4. If you have a mature system, it will always be falling. You'll want to develop a system where it falls to 6 and you raise it to 6.4 and then it falls to 6 again and you raise it to 6.4 (and the cycle continues...) Hope that helps!
Hey Don, check out our other video on raising pH levels. In a mature system, remember your pH will always drop due to nitrification, unless you're introducing carbonates. If you install an RO filter from the start, controlling pH becomes an easier task.
The ammonia ammonium video was the most informational video I have ever seen, thank you. I discovered the problem already, the hard way but to understand the chemistry after is still awesome.
You can have high nitrification rates at low pH if you give your microbial communities time to adapt, have lots of system BSA, and keep your water chemistry relatively stable.
Well, if your tapwater isn't too basic, you can use it, or if you have a healthy system with lots of nitrification, basic tapwater usually isn't a problem. If you're just getting started, and can afford it, look into an RO filter. It will help you get started on the right foot as far as your water goes!
I was so confused but you made it clear and simple the only thing is your answer Given to Don used terms RO and carbonates introduction in the beginning I will search in your channel for just why these are thanks!
Hi Bright Agrotech I wanted to give you a two-thumbs up on extremely well done job on your project and free education you provide with your videos! After devouring all of your videos I am now wondering on how, what and how often do you measure in your system? Best regards from Estonia (EU).
Hi Ken, If you have a lot of aluminum in your system, and your run your pH really low (by aquaponic standards) then you should worry. By and large though, we don't have much if any aluminum in the system, and our pH doesn't usually drop beyond 6.0, which is still above the range where most Al toxicities occur (most Al toxicities occur below pH 5.0 or so. . .).
While there are ideal conditions for lots of nitrifiers, they're also relatively adaptable, and there are hundreds, if not thousands of nitrifiers besides nitrobacter and nitrosomonas, so, you need to manage your water for your plants and let your microbes adapt to conditions. Separating the nitrifiers would require a huge level of control and not really do too much for your system- as would culturing them in tanks. Don't worry about them too much. They'll adapt to your needs.
You can do that, but your nitrogen fixing will likely slow in the presence of lots of nitrate. It won't delay ammonia buildup- actually it likely won't have much of an effect at all. The bacteria that fix nitrogen won't hurt your fish at all.
Hi Tad, Cycle your system first by adding ammonia and building up your microbial colonies, then add plants after 3-4 weeks and fish after 6, when your ammonia drops down to less than 0.5 ppm, your nitrites are less than 0.25 ppm and your nitrates are showing up consistently. Check out our video on cycling for more info!
Hello, Tad here! I live in Evanston, Wyoming and can't wait to tour your facility!! Question?? When first starting a small indoor hobby system (100 gal. fish tank & three 23 gal. grow beds; two 20 gal sumps) what should I begin with first? Fish or Plants and media? Also, what chemical numbers should be achieved before completing the system? Thanks! Love the videos!!!
Very informative. Thank you so much. Just what I need to fix thigs in my new aquaponics system. I only have 4 fishes in my system with about150 net pots. Am I supplying enough food for my plants?
very informative! is there a recommended ratio between the plants vs the fish grown to attain this balanced PH systems? Am I right to assume that a system is better and safer to have more plants than fish being grown to increase nitrification? thank you very much!
well, I think that might complicate the issue more than is necessary, but bubbling H2 through your system won't help. H2 is relatively inert- you're better off just waiting for nitrification to drop your pH naturally.
This was a fantastic video. Thank you very much. I feel like it is really important for us to know the science behind what we are doing with our systems. I hope you make more videos like this. I have subscribed and will be looking through more of your videos. Well done!
If your system is fully cycled, and you haven't done anything to wipe out your nitrifyers, then you basically need to feed more. Tomatoes are real nutrient hogs- they'll suck the nutrients right out of your system, so don't overfeed, but make sure you're feeding several times a day to satiation. If you still can't get nitrate up there, you'll have to add a couple more fish. Right now you're probably a little understocked to be growing tomatoes.
Lemon juice to lower pH can be a little risky. Lemon juice, in particular, have anti microbial agents. If you do introduce it to your system to lower pH, oftentimes you'll see a die off of the nitrifying bacteria. That's no bueno!
Great videos, simple to understand. Congratulation. I have a question, maybe silly one. I have a lake, big one (51 ha) with common carps in. I want to make there a hydroponic system. I can use the water directly from lake to fertilize my plants or is not a good ideea? Thanks again for share with us all of things.
Is it possible for you guys to show your cheat sheet for monitoring water quality ? With Referencing parameter or might have happen at certain level and also mitigation plan at chronic level. I know it might be to much, but that's coming from a newbie like me.
Are you going to do an episode on the different macro/micro nutrient and how too much of some nutrients inhibit the uptake of other nutrients? I know you hit on this topic a little when you were talking about how you bring up the pH in your system.
Hi I'm new to aquaponic. I'm not quite understand the part to million something.... what's equipment you measure the ammonia and ammonium and how do you bring ph up and down organically.
You can use it to jump start system microbiology, but we wouldn't recommend it as the sole source of nutrients for an aquaponics because the nutrients in that water just become way too dilute and you'll end up with nutrient efficiencies.
To increase your nitrates, you're just going to have to feed more or increase your stocking density. If there is 0 nitrites and 0 ammonia, your system is cycled and you need to start planting [we assume you've already started since your nitrates are at 0]. It sounds like your system is in really good shape, you'll just have to up the feeding. Good luck!
Hello, I am planning for fish farming using biofloc technology.so it would be great if you could explain how to convert ammonia or ammonium to nitrates with experiment.
Well done Nate! Always excited to get the notification in my email telling me that Bright Agrotech has a new video out. I received my 5' media inserts in the mail very quickly and am very pleased with Chris' customer service when I had questions. You guys rock! Do you find that you lose any genuinely measurable efficiency moving detritus on the tank bottom because you are using square tanks as opposed to round tanks? Also curious, how well does your geothermal air recirc system work?
Very informative! Question... my system is about 7 weeks old, and the Nitrites spiked and are now back down to 0, PH 7.6 and Ammonia 0. The Nitrates were around 30ppm, but now they are back to 0. I've looked around but can't find information about increasing the nitrates. Any suggestions? Thanks,
Hey Nate had a question. We have a 2.5 acre lake on the property. Its had fish in it for a long time. Catfish...Bass...Crapie....etc. Can I use that for my aquaponics water supply ?
Do the 'best' of these nitrifiers operate at those conditions? Is there such thing as the best nitrifiers? My goal is to up the efficiency of filtering waste water if Nitrosomonas and Nitrospria had tanks dedicated to what they do 'best'. I.e take waste water through a dedicated Nitrosomoans tank first, then, introduce it to the Nitrospria tank second. This may invovlve growing the bacteria in vats first to ensure that all retail space is occupied by the the appropriate bacteria.
I just started up and run my aquaponic system about a week now. It is out door in Canada. I don’t think I can run it during winter time, also I will bring my fish in door during freezing season. My question is can I keep the water in the system for next spring or when it is not freezing temperature, and what happen to all the micro organisms also the ph in the water? Thank you!
This was really good. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I wonder, how high might one run the nitrate? Can't nitrate also come in toxic and nontoxic form? Do you speak on that in a different video? I suspect what level one strives for depends on the fish, plants, and pump ebb/flow cycles?
Hi Nate, I was wondering if I could use the fish and water from my garden pond to start my aquaponic tank? My pond is about 7yrs old and had most of the fish about as long.
I read that Nitrosomonas and Nitrospria require a pH of 7.8-8 and 7.3-7.5 at temps of 25-30 deg C for optimal reproduction. Are these the same ideal parameters for processing Ammonia -> Nitrite -> Nitrate? Or, does optimal Nitrification occur at different at different pH and temp?
amazingly concise video, I've been researching water quality parameters of aquaponic systems for a few months and hadn't heard about shifting the water pH over time without losing nitrification efficiency. I for sure will dig a bit deeper but would love to implement this in the new system im building. Thanks! If possible, would anyone be able to share some of the literature confirming this effect?
It's not entirely true with heavy plant growth and lower carbonate levels your nitrification does go down, but it doesn't really matter because the plants are sucking in the majority of the ammonium. This is only a concern at the beginning of the nitrogen cycle if you are doing a fishless and plantless cycle. It will still work, but a biological bed at 8.6pH and 300+ppm is going to work a lot better, as in being millions of time larger, than a bed at 6.8pH 80ppm. As well it isn't really about pH levels anyhow it is about the temporary hardness levels, (carbonate hardness) That is what determines the outcome and is what you should be monitoring. pH will swing throughout the day it doesn't mean your buffer is degrading.
ADU Aquascaping Hmmm. ADU, you need to get outside of your dim lighted aquarium room to read the aquaculture industry literature so you can realize how wrong you are.
I would like to know if it would affect the nutrient content in the system if I apply aquarium filter with bioballs in it. I know that will filter the ammonia and make the water so clean in the aquarium. But, is that fine with the aquaponic system? Many thanks!
+Bright Agrotech this is so professional, but I am still not convinced that we can use aquaponics for commercial use and mass production, since nutrient production is not efficient as hydroponics, and since we are only providing the N from fish, there are other significant elements like P & K, and other minerals... what do you think?
Hey thanks for the vid. My water source comes out at 8.0 to 8.2 the system always works it down to mid 7 do u have any advice on lowering it to begin with.
will nitrate turn back to ammonium or ammonia or the nitrate will stay at the grow bed? Just wonder we should keep continuously water circulation or by dosing once a day to let the plant has time to adsorb the nitrate.
What's shakin' Bacon?? The biofilter should consume very little nitrate. The primary job of biofilters is to oxidize ammonia. So if you have an ammonia problem, that will help. However, a properly designed and properly stocked system shouldn't have those issue to begin with. In our system, of course, we use our ZipGrow Towers as a plant integrated biofilter and it works really well for us. The easiest solution is just to stop feeding your fish as much.
Hi, I've been fish less cycling up my system. At the end of two weeks I have @ 6.4 ph, 0ppm ammonia with nitrites and nitrates off the charts! Do I just need your online book to find my answers or can you give me an idea if tis is good, bad, okay? Thanks and Thanks so much for your videos!
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Hi Jaden, nitrification is happening within 6 weeks typically, but for systems to hit full stride with nutrient availability, and a balanced overall ecology (not just nitrifying bacteria), it's usually at least 6 mo.s. These systems are like wine, they get better with age, typically due to diversifying ecology and nutrient accumulation. Regarding water changes- that's news to me. I've been running the same water for 8 years now. :)
Thanks! We will keep these coming. We'll be shooting one on Iron in the next week or so.
You are one heck of a teacher! Very clear chemistry instruction.
Thanks for the education!
Thanks, James! We're glad that you're getting something out of these videos. Let us know if there are other parts of AP you are wanting help with.
Thanks for subscribing, Reis Family! We're committed to continuing to create and publish this type content for our loyal, passionate RUclips subscribers. Thanks for the great feedback and stay in touch!
Hey Rich, we run our system 24/7, but you don't have to! You can run it on a timed cycle if you want. Filling and draining every 6 minutes is not too fast, but you could slow it down if you want to save a little more money by using a timer (again, not required!).
Great to hear, Chippy. Sounds like you're on the right track with doing your homework first. Having a well-designed system from the start is MUCH easier in the long run.
You're welcome, Steven. Glad you found it helpful - They'll be more where this came from soon!
You're welcome, Brin! Glad it was easy enough to understand - Ammonia can be a rather confusing subject in aquaponics. Best of luck!
Hey Ryan. Thanks for your nice feedback! Yes, circulation is always a little limited with square tanks with rounded corners. However, the space efficiency with square tanks far outweigh the decreased circulation. It's a slight trade off, but one we would definitely make. Geothermal works well! We use it sparingly, but if there is an emergency, it's super nice to have on hand!
DR NATE! YOU ARE A SUPERHERO!!
This is part of what hooked me on aquaponics you and the rest of the community giving good information to help peple get started. I will start cycling my system tomarrow. I owe it all to you and the rest of the people who have given much of themselves and then give it back to the people Thankyou
Happy to help, John!
We recommend that everyone monitor ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature daily in their systems (at least until the system is mature). Once it's mature it becomes very stable and predictable. These days we check these system variables only once or twice a week, if that (with the exception of temperature).
Hi,
You can usually run the nitrates up to around 160 ppm before your fish start to notice. I would recommend shooting for a range between 20 and 80 ppm. Much higher and your aphids will get out of control. Nitrate is relatively non-toxic. Nitrite is deadly.
Hey Tom, there is a ratio to fish to biological surface area. There is basically a maximum number of plants that a certain amount of protein introduced to the system can support. Your fish ratios should be around 1# per 8-10 gallons. Your biofiltration (for most medias) should be around 1-to-1 tank volume to grow bed volume. The Number of plants you can fit into the grow bed will really depend on how much feed you feed to the fish. Thanks for the question - It can get a little complicated!
Hi Robert,
The reality is much more complicated than that. The reality is that there are tons of different nitrifiers that operate optimally at different pH ranges, and bacterial biomass can offset reductions in efficiency. At the end of the day, each system has it's own nitrifier composition that is adapted to the variables in that system. The biggest thing is to keep the system stable. I'll do a Vertical food blog post on low pH nitrification soon.
Sure, we can do a video on that. I'll throw it on the shoot calendar right now. Thanks!
I've seen a few of your videos now and with each one I am more impressed. This is such a cool topic to learn about.
It usually takes around a year to get the microbial communities established to the point where they're stable and efficient- once they reach this point and nitrification is stable (assuming there isn't carbonates built up in the system) your pH will start to drop in response to efficient nitrification, giving you complete control over what pH range you run your system at. Check out our stocking density video to see how many fish to stock/gal.
Thank you Tony. We do our best.
Those are awesome numbers! Your system is fully cycled at this point. You can start adding fish, and definitely get some plants in there!
Thanks Larry. Glad we could help you out. Let us know if you have other questions or topics you would like addressed.
Another great video Nate! And thanks for your time and the tour last week!
Glad to hear you found this helpful!
Keep these videos coming. I have never seen informative videos such as these. Please get into the science part of AP. I like it when I know why its a good idea to have a lower pH, not because someone that's been doing AP for a long time says its so.
Awesome! I've been researching and thinking about aquaponics for a while now. I've decided on the design for my first system (3 IBCs) and now starting to think about water quality, etc. etc.
The best way to lower pH is to increase nitrification and feeding rates. But, if your water is coming out at pH 8-8.2 and only working down to mid 7's over time, then you might look at installing an RO filter. They can be fairly inexpensive (typically costing a couple hundred dollars for a small to midsize system) and they're definitely a good investment on the front end rather than struggling and fighting pH over the long run.
Well, you can stock at higher densities, but you're typically threatening your system stability. There are lots of variables to consider before increasing densities. More nitrate can be good, or bad, depending on the situation. It takes many more nutrients to grow a plant!
Dude, that was a great video. Thanks for explaining that like a human. You got me as a fan!
We try to keep our pH between 6-6.4. If you have a mature system, it will always be falling. You'll want to develop a system where it falls to 6 and you raise it to 6.4 and then it falls to 6 again and you raise it to 6.4 (and the cycle continues...) Hope that helps!
Thanks Edward- We're doing our best to put good content out there. Subscribe if you like it!
Hi Sean,
We'll be trying to do a video on all of the plant nutrients over the coming months and how to manage them best.
Hey Don, check out our other video on raising pH levels. In a mature system, remember your pH will always drop due to nitrification, unless you're introducing carbonates. If you install an RO filter from the start, controlling pH becomes an easier task.
Just started adding more fish - a few at a time, and have upped the feeding to twice a day. Thanks for the help!!!
The ammonia ammonium video was the most informational video I have ever seen, thank you. I discovered the problem already, the hard way but to understand the chemistry after is still awesome.
I'm glad we can be helpful Kevin!
hi guys, the greatest results that I have had was by following the Keiths Ponics Site (i found it on google) definately the no.1 info that I've tried.
You can have high nitrification rates at low pH if you give your microbial communities time to adapt, have lots of system BSA, and keep your water chemistry relatively stable.
Just an amazing and super informative video. Spot on. Thanks for taking the time to record/post this.
Well, if your tapwater isn't too basic, you can use it, or if you have a healthy system with lots of nitrification, basic tapwater usually isn't a problem. If you're just getting started, and can afford it, look into an RO filter. It will help you get started on the right foot as far as your water goes!
I was so confused but you made it clear and simple the only thing is your answer Given to Don used terms RO and carbonates introduction in the beginning I will search in your channel for just why these are thanks!
I recommend between 1ppm and 2ppm for the establishment period. Try not too exceed it too much or things can occasionally slow down.
Hi Bright Agrotech
I wanted to give you a two-thumbs up on extremely well done job on your project and free education you provide with your videos!
After devouring all of your videos I am now wondering on how, what and how often do you measure in your system?
Best regards from Estonia (EU).
Hi Ken,
If you have a lot of aluminum in your system, and your run your pH really low (by aquaponic standards) then you should worry. By and large though, we don't have much if any aluminum in the system, and our pH doesn't usually drop beyond 6.0, which is still above the range where most Al toxicities occur (most Al toxicities occur below pH 5.0 or so. . .).
While there are ideal conditions for lots of nitrifiers, they're also relatively adaptable, and there are hundreds, if not thousands of nitrifiers besides nitrobacter and nitrosomonas, so, you need to manage your water for your plants and let your microbes adapt to conditions. Separating the nitrifiers would require a huge level of control and not really do too much for your system- as would culturing them in tanks. Don't worry about them too much. They'll adapt to your needs.
You can do that, but your nitrogen fixing will likely slow in the presence of lots of nitrate. It won't delay ammonia buildup- actually it likely won't have much of an effect at all. The bacteria that fix nitrogen won't hurt your fish at all.
Hi Tad, Cycle your system first by adding ammonia and building up your microbial colonies, then add plants after 3-4 weeks and fish after 6, when your ammonia drops down to less than 0.5 ppm, your nitrites are less than 0.25 ppm and your nitrates are showing up consistently. Check out our video on cycling for more info!
You're welcome, Steven!
You're welcome - thanks for the feedback and feel free to suggest other topics!
Hello, Tad here! I live in Evanston, Wyoming and can't wait to tour your facility!! Question?? When first starting a small indoor hobby system (100 gal. fish tank & three 23 gal. grow beds; two 20 gal sumps) what should I begin with first? Fish or Plants and media? Also, what chemical numbers should be achieved before completing the system? Thanks! Love the videos!!!
You bet, what is your shirt size? You can find shirts on our online store.
Happy to help!
Very informative. Thank you so much. Just what I need to fix thigs in my new aquaponics system. I only have 4 fishes in my system with about150 net pots. Am I supplying enough food for my plants?
very informative! is there a recommended ratio between the plants vs the fish grown to attain this balanced PH systems? Am I right to assume that a system is better and safer to have more plants than fish being grown to increase nitrification? thank you very much!
Good to hear!
I am a medical doctor and have a degree in chemistry. You are an excellent professor ;)
Thanks for the nice feedback, Irvin! You're too kind.
Very good info on Ammonia, ammonium and conversion to Nitrate
Glad it was helpful Heeradevi!
great info. keep it up i found you just as i was getting worried about my system dropping to 6.4 after a year and a half.
well, I think that might complicate the issue more than is necessary, but bubbling H2 through your system won't help. H2 is relatively inert- you're better off just waiting for nitrification to drop your pH naturally.
This was a fantastic video. Thank you very much. I feel like it is really important for us to know the science behind what we are doing with our systems. I hope you make more videos like this. I have subscribed and will be looking through more of your videos. Well done!
looking forward to the documents.i think the most important things that gets overlooked by most beginners is mechanical and bio-filtration.
If your system is fully cycled, and you haven't done anything to wipe out your nitrifyers, then you basically need to feed more. Tomatoes are real nutrient hogs- they'll suck the nutrients right out of your system, so don't overfeed, but make sure you're feeding several times a day to satiation. If you still can't get nitrate up there, you'll have to add a couple more fish. Right now you're probably a little understocked to be growing tomatoes.
Lemon juice to lower pH can be a little risky. Lemon juice, in particular, have anti microbial agents. If you do introduce it to your system to lower pH, oftentimes you'll see a die off of the nitrifying bacteria. That's no bueno!
Great videos, simple to understand. Congratulation. I have a question, maybe silly one. I have a lake, big one (51 ha) with common carps in. I want to make there a hydroponic system. I can use the water directly from lake to fertilize my plants or is not a good ideea?
Thanks again for share with us all of things.
Awesome video. Is there a way to easily measure Ammonia and Ammonium content in your water on-line and in an automated fashion?
Easiest way to go would be an aquarium test kit.
Is it possible for you guys to show your cheat sheet for monitoring water quality ? With Referencing parameter or might have happen at certain level and also mitigation plan at chronic level. I know it might be to much, but that's coming from a newbie like me.
Are you going to do an episode on the different macro/micro nutrient and how too much of some nutrients inhibit the uptake of other nutrients? I know you hit on this topic a little when you were talking about how you bring up the pH in your system.
Thanks again, Jamie!
Hi I'm new to aquaponic. I'm not quite understand the part to million something.... what's equipment you measure the ammonia and ammonium and how do you bring ph up and down organically.
You can use it to jump start system microbiology, but we wouldn't recommend it as the sole source of nutrients for an aquaponics because the nutrients in that water just become way too dilute and you'll end up with nutrient efficiencies.
Thanks, I will try that. I really enjoy your videos and expertise. You have been a excellent resource!
To increase your nitrates, you're just going to have to feed more or increase your stocking density. If there is 0 nitrites and 0 ammonia, your system is cycled and you need to start planting [we assume you've already started since your nitrates are at 0]. It sounds like your system is in really good shape, you'll just have to up the feeding. Good luck!
Hello, I am planning for fish farming using biofloc technology.so it would be great if you could explain how to convert ammonia or ammonium to nitrates with experiment.
I was going to say the same thing!! Even for someone who knows little to nothing about chemistry I understood very well
Thank you for keeping the explanation simple.
Also, see the raising pH video, as you'll likely need to start adding lime and lye once your system hits a pH around 6.2.
Well done Nate! Always excited to get the notification in my email telling me that Bright Agrotech has a new video out. I received my 5' media inserts in the mail very quickly and am very pleased with Chris' customer service when I had questions. You guys rock!
Do you find that you lose any genuinely measurable efficiency moving detritus on the tank bottom because you are using square tanks as opposed to round tanks? Also curious, how well does your geothermal air recirc system work?
Very informative!
Question... my system is about 7 weeks old, and the Nitrites spiked and are now back down to 0, PH 7.6 and Ammonia 0. The Nitrates were around 30ppm, but now they are back to 0. I've looked around but can't find information about increasing the nitrates. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Glad we could help Marcos.
Hey Nate had a question. We have a 2.5 acre lake on the property. Its had fish in it for a long time. Catfish...Bass...Crapie....etc. Can I use that for my aquaponics water supply ?
If you're running 150 plants on 4 small fish, then that's probably a bit low. I would boost your stocking density if your nitrification will take it.
Do the 'best' of these nitrifiers operate at those conditions? Is there such thing as the best nitrifiers? My goal is to up the efficiency of filtering waste water if Nitrosomonas and Nitrospria had tanks dedicated to what they do 'best'. I.e take waste water through a dedicated Nitrosomoans tank first, then, introduce it to the Nitrospria tank second. This may invovlve growing the bacteria in vats first to ensure that all retail space is occupied by the the appropriate bacteria.
I just started up and run my aquaponic system about a week now. It is out door in Canada. I don’t think I can run it during winter time, also I will bring my fish in door during freezing season.
My question is can I keep the water in the system for next spring or when it is not freezing temperature, and what happen to all the micro organisms also the ph in the water? Thank you!
This was really good. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I wonder, how high might one run the nitrate? Can't nitrate also come in toxic and nontoxic form? Do you speak on that in a different video? I suspect what level one strives for depends on the fish, plants, and pump ebb/flow cycles?
Hi Nate, I was wondering if I could use the fish and water from my garden pond to start my aquaponic tank? My pond is about 7yrs old and had most of the fish about as long.
Thanks, Tony!
I read that Nitrosomonas and Nitrospria require a pH of 7.8-8 and 7.3-7.5 at temps of 25-30 deg C for optimal reproduction. Are these the same ideal parameters for processing Ammonia -> Nitrite -> Nitrate? Or, does optimal Nitrification occur at different at different pH and temp?
good details Nate.
amazingly concise video, I've been researching water quality parameters of aquaponic systems for a few months and hadn't heard about shifting the water pH over time without losing nitrification efficiency. I for sure will dig a bit deeper but would love to implement this in the new system im building. Thanks!
If possible, would anyone be able to share some of the literature confirming this effect?
It's not entirely true with heavy plant growth and lower carbonate levels your nitrification does go down, but it doesn't really matter because the plants are sucking in the majority of the ammonium. This is only a concern at the beginning of the nitrogen cycle if you are doing a fishless and plantless cycle. It will still work, but a biological bed at 8.6pH and 300+ppm is going to work a lot better, as in being millions of time larger, than a bed at 6.8pH 80ppm. As well it isn't really about pH levels anyhow it is about the temporary hardness levels, (carbonate hardness) That is what determines the outcome and is what you should be monitoring. pH will swing throughout the day it doesn't mean your buffer is degrading.
ADU Aquascaping Hmmm. ADU, you need to get outside of your dim lighted aquarium room to read the aquaculture industry literature so you can realize how wrong you are.
I would like to know if it would affect the nutrient content in the system if I apply aquarium filter with bioballs in it. I know that will filter the ammonia and make the water so clean in the aquarium. But, is that fine with the aquaponic system? Many thanks!
Very informative video. How about the trend of ammonium and ammonia with respective to temperature for a given pH level? Is there any effect?
Very nice video,,, how can i lower the pH ?
Really clean cut, good information!
Thanks alot, helped a ton!
Great to hear, ***** ! Happy to help.
+Bright Agrotech this is so professional, but I am still not convinced that we can use aquaponics for commercial use and mass production, since nutrient production is not efficient as hydroponics, and since we are only providing the N from fish, there are other significant elements like P & K, and other minerals... what do you think?
Hey thanks for the vid. My water source comes out at 8.0 to 8.2 the system always works it down to mid 7 do u have any advice on lowering it to begin with.
Exactly what I needed to know! Thanks for dumbing it down! Keep it up..
will nitrate turn back to ammonium or ammonia or the nitrate will stay at the grow bed? Just wonder we should keep continuously water circulation or by dosing once a day to let the plant has time to adsorb the nitrate.
What's shakin' Bacon?? The biofilter should consume very little nitrate. The primary job of biofilters is to oxidize ammonia. So if you have an ammonia problem, that will help. However, a properly designed and properly stocked system shouldn't have those issue to begin with. In our system, of course, we use our ZipGrow Towers as a plant integrated biofilter and it works really well for us. The easiest solution is just to stop feeding your fish as much.
Do we know how long the conversion process?
how can you tell where your nitrification levels are at?
Hi, I've been fish less cycling up my system. At the end of two weeks I have @ 6.4 ph, 0ppm ammonia with nitrites and nitrates off the charts! Do I just need your online book to find my answers or can you give me an idea if tis is good, bad, okay? Thanks and Thanks so much for your videos!