I found this very interesting as this is completely new to me. I hardly ever use my hand held circular saw and my track is a home mader. I feel like a caveman when I see some of this lovely purpose-made gear! Thanks for educating me Harki - every day's a school day.
Cheers mate, I used to use hand made track and still do. This with its plunge and straight track just make it a little easier and a little more flexible
Yes you are correct it was set to just cut the rubber. Thanks for that observation commenting, it a good tip. The saw has a shallow stop setting which is used to avoid tear out when cutting plywood.
@@GenePavlovsky the trim is provided wider than required. Each saw may have some slight variations hence the first cut establishes the exact width for the saw you have. Not sure if that helps!explain it?
@@LonghornWorkshop Yes, thanks! I got an SP6000J and a couple of guide rails, but haven't unpacked or read the instructions yet :D I'm wondering, though, do all the saw blades have the same width? There are many alternative blades available - e.g. for aluminum, steel, multi-material, their teeth are slightly different in width. I wonder how does that make sense in relation to the trimming.
@ I think once trimmed you should use the same saw and the same make blade. The kerf on the blade is the important part, the kerf is the thickness of the blade. You should watch other videos before make the first cut. Although if you mess up you can just replace the rubber on the tracks and try again. They sell just the rubber part on the tracks.
@@LonghornWorkshop Hmmm... The 48T blade that came with SP6000J has a kerf of 2.2 mm. I bought 3 other carbide-toothed blades, they are: 1.8 mm (for Steel), 2.0 mm (multi-material), 2.4 mm (for Aluminum). So if I use the stock blade for trimming, the guide rail will be set up for a 2.2 mm blade. If I then use an 1.8 mm blade, my cuts would be (2.2-1.8)/2=0.2 mm too wide? And if I use the Alu blade, this is gonna trim the splinter guard by a further 0.1 mm? Maybe these 0.1 or 0.2 mm is not critical... It sure would be a PITA to have multiple dedicated guide rails per saw blade kerf width :) Any specific videos you recommend? I watched a couple, and at least some of them don't really go to much detail, and the makers look like they just learn by experience and hadn't read the tool's instructions :) Thanks for the info! P.S. I have two 1400 mm guide rails, I plan to split the second one into two unequal parts (not sure if 800/600 or 900/500 ?). From my understanding, I could just connect the two and trim from start of one to almost the end of the other, then disconnect and reconnect the opposite ends, and do the same again, right? I just need to make sure the rail ends are square, and to find a flat surface that could accomodate a 2800 mm combined rail :D
Yes if you only have the one track you don’t really need to cut the splinter guard all the way. But you may want to cut it almost all the way to get the full use of the tack. I think if you leave the ends uncut it could over time tear and the tear could mess up the rest of the splinter guard. But you do rightly make a good point. Thanks again appreciate your comment, I hadn’t really thought of it.
Have you gotten any luck with affiliate links? We often put ours on our videos but have only gotten a few clicks. We have to keep reapplying for the amazon affiliate program because we don’t get enough clicks and purchases
No not too much traffic on the affiliate links. I get a few clicks but hardly anything to shout about. It’s hard for small channels like ours when it comes to affiliate links
I found this very interesting as this is completely new to me. I hardly ever use my hand held circular saw and my track is a home mader. I feel like a caveman when I see some of this lovely purpose-made gear! Thanks for educating me Harki - every day's a school day.
Cheers mate, I used to use hand made track and still do. This with its plunge and straight track just make it a little easier and a little more flexible
Great video. I observed that you also set the depth stop to very shallow - something you didn't mention in the video?
Yes you are correct it was set to just cut the rubber. Thanks for that observation commenting, it a good tip.
The saw has a shallow stop setting which is used to avoid tear out when cutting plywood.
Nice tool you got. Thanks for the tips. Well done 👍
Thanks
great way on trimming the splinter guard!
Thanks man appreciate that
Good video mate could of used one of these a few times on the renovation very handy thing to have.
Thanks and yes useful to have especially the plunge feature.
The video doesn't mention why are you trimming it, or did I miss it? Would like to know the purpose of this mod.
@@GenePavlovsky the trim is provided wider than required. Each saw may have some slight variations hence the first cut establishes the exact width for the saw you have. Not sure if that helps!explain it?
@@LonghornWorkshop Yes, thanks! I got an SP6000J and a couple of guide rails, but haven't unpacked or read the instructions yet :D
I'm wondering, though, do all the saw blades have the same width? There are many alternative blades available - e.g. for aluminum, steel, multi-material, their teeth are slightly different in width. I wonder how does that make sense in relation to the trimming.
@ I think once trimmed you should use the same saw and the same make blade. The kerf on the blade is the important part, the kerf is the thickness of the blade.
You should watch other videos before make the first cut. Although if you mess up you can just replace the rubber on the tracks and try again. They sell just the rubber part on the tracks.
@@LonghornWorkshop Hmmm... The 48T blade that came with SP6000J has a kerf of 2.2 mm. I bought 3 other carbide-toothed blades, they are: 1.8 mm (for Steel), 2.0 mm (multi-material), 2.4 mm (for Aluminum). So if I use the stock blade for trimming, the guide rail will be set up for a 2.2 mm blade. If I then use an 1.8 mm blade, my cuts would be (2.2-1.8)/2=0.2 mm too wide? And if I use the Alu blade, this is gonna trim the splinter guard by a further 0.1 mm? Maybe these 0.1 or 0.2 mm is not critical... It sure would be a PITA to have multiple dedicated guide rails per saw blade kerf width :)
Any specific videos you recommend? I watched a couple, and at least some of them don't really go to much detail, and the makers look like they just learn by experience and hadn't read the tool's instructions :)
Thanks for the info!
P.S. I have two 1400 mm guide rails, I plan to split the second one into two unequal parts (not sure if 800/600 or 900/500 ?). From my understanding, I could just connect the two and trim from start of one to almost the end of the other, then disconnect and reconnect the opposite ends, and do the same again, right? I just need to make sure the rail ends are square, and to find a flat surface that could accomodate a 2800 mm combined rail :D
2 track video?
@@anwarrior0152 sorry didn’t get a chance to do a video on that.
Why do you need to cut the very ends? The blade doesn’t cut past the two points anyway unless it’s attached to a second track.
Yes if you only have the one track you don’t really need to cut the splinter guard all the way. But you may want to cut it almost all the way to get the full use of the tack.
I think if you leave the ends uncut it could over time tear and the tear could mess up the rest of the splinter guard. But you do rightly make a good point.
Thanks again appreciate your comment, I hadn’t really thought of it.
Have you gotten any luck with affiliate links? We often put ours on our videos but have only gotten a few clicks. We have to keep reapplying for the amazon affiliate program because we don’t get enough clicks and purchases
No not too much traffic on the affiliate links. I get a few clicks but hardly anything to shout about. It’s hard for small channels like ours when it comes to affiliate links
Hadir ikut menyimak
Thanks