Nice job! You did a nice preservation and did not go overboard on restoration. By that I mean some guys make tools look brand new again, to me that wipes out the tool's history. Well done! Cheers from Oregon!
That restoration and subsequent use of a very, very fine saw was nothing less that Absolute Craftsmanship!! Both on the original maker (when makers took pride and put passion into their work) and you Sir!! The final scene of that magnificent rip saw eating the lumber like a beast happily devouring a meal was EPIC! Pure delight on the "Silver Screen"!! Bravo!!
Thank god I found your channel. Finally someone that’s not afraid of a bit of hard work you did a lovely job on the old saw without power tools. You used the same prose’s as my farther did back in the day because he couldn’t afford new tools so restoring them to there former state. A pleasure to watch and your collection of proper tools is very impressive. You have left me one happy man thank you 👍👍👍😊😊😊♥️
My first time watching andi enjoyed what I saw. Awesome restoration. It's great to see old tools restored and being used again. They work well today as they did in the time they did when they were made. Some people would trash them and buy a new one. You paid great attention on the job. Glad to see it.
As someone who has been restoring antique tools, both hand and powered , I've neve seen or used motor oil to clean a blade before. It came out great. You could bring it back even more be using something like WD-40 which is not as heavy as motor oil. I think you may find any residue getting gummy after use in combination with sawdust and dirt. I would recommend not using find steel wool until after you sanded the grime off. If you use a fine grit it will take it right off. A heavier grit like 80 or 120 would remove the finish, which I do for a full restoration and after the wood is cleaned of dust, I would use as you did, Danish oil, or some other good penitrating oil. Hemp is very good as well. I would not put a shellac on, maybe wipe on poly, but honestly, the wood becomes very dry after 100 or more years and after the first application, I will go back a few more times, letting it dry in-between. Saws are one of my favorite tools to use and restore. I once came across a crudely painted saw at a tag sale. The had it hanging on the barn at one point. I looked very carefully and I had an idea that it was a mid 1800s saw and fairly rare. I bought for $8.00 and stripped the paint off. And sure enough it was an early limited produced Disston panel saw. It was worth a couple of hundred dollars 20 years ago, but I kept it instead. I use it occasionally, but it is hanging on the wall of my shop along with other tools I have collected. Even the rare handplanes I've restored, I use them all of the time. If I was going to sell them, I wouldn't use them. One of the rabbit planes I have that is made out of nickle, brass, and Indian Rosewood. It's a gorgeous looking plane, but it also cuts like a hot knife thru butter. A real pleasure to use. I look forward to your other videos! Thank you for posting this.
I was mightily relieved to see how you preserved the patina on the handle, using steel wool and not a belt sander!!! Kudos to you for for that. However I noticed you didn't restore the medallion? While I understand your concern for the piece, the best, and safest method is to use ammonia and 0000 grade still wool, not foregetting good vernitalion for the fumes. Gentle but firm rubbing will give you a magnificent finish that does not remove but polishes, thereby preserving any tiny marks that give the saw its character. The well-restored medallion puts the final touch to a remarkable antique saw that will delight everyone who sees it.
Nice job on the saw. I have used water and wet/dry paper with good results but I think I will use your oil method next time. I have a can of butchers wax in the basement since the 70s that looks just like that. Count me in.
I'm fairly new to old handsaws. That's one beautiful ripping saw. I love that handle, I bet it feels amazing in the hand. I have a couple old Disston's & Sons that have a similar shape and I never get tired of holding them (and cutting with them). Great job!
Thank you! Yes it is lovely to hold. The craftsmen of old really took a lot of pride in the fit and finish of their saw handles. I have a few early 19th century examples that are works of art. I could do a whole video just on saw handles.
Very nice restoration, glad to see you kept the history of the saw rather than making it look brand new. You have a new subscriber. Hope to see more in the future.
Glad to see that you did not give the English resto treatment to the brass saw nuts and label. If the case of a very rusted saw with pitting I have been using a palm sander and one of the rust removal solutions. For a tarnish blade I might start with a very fine sand paper and see what happens. Have you had any luck preserving the etching on any other projects of this age?
Hi Gary, I've been able to preserve the etch on many antique saws by using gentle methods. I focus on removing the loose orange/brown layer of surface rust by hand with scraping, fine sand paper, scotch bright, and steel wool, and stop once the dark layer of protective patina is reached. I avoid rust removers since they strip the patina along with the surface rust and tend to expose the steel to future rusting if not painted.
Nice job on the saw. I was wondering why you didn't use some Brasso and an old toothbrush on the bolts and the medallion. Do you have anyidea what kind of wood the handle is made from?
Thanks @kennethspeed2019! For antique tools, I prefer to keep the aged look of the brass with its natural patina. The handle is made of European beech.
Hi Don, good question! I often find that the teeth on old saws have been given too much set. In this case, they can be sharpened a few times before you have to set the teeth again. I like to work with a minimal amount of set - just enough to prevent binding but not so much that the saw rattles around in the kerf. High quality vintage saws were also "taper ground", meaning the steel is a bit thicker at the tooth line than along the back - this reduces the amount of set needed.
hi @phaul, I run a file across the tips of the saw teeth (this is called jointing) to bring them to a uniform height before sharpening. This adds a small flat spot on each tooth which is then filed to a sharp point. On old saws, the teeth are usually badly uneven ('out of joint') so a lot of jointing is needed. Once the saw has been restored, I usually just very lightly joint (eg one or two light file strokes) before resharpening when needed. My aim is always to remove as little steel as possible to maximize the life of the saw.
Nice job! You did a nice preservation and did not go overboard on restoration. By that I mean some guys make tools look brand new again, to me that wipes out the tool's history.
Well done! Cheers from Oregon!
Thanks @pgoessnitzer ! My first priority is always to preserve the tool's history!
Decent. Glad to see a proper refurbish without evaporust or wire wheels.
Thanks @YankeeAxeToolCo. !
Keep on rescuing the old ones. Really enjoyed watching your gift.
Thanks @carsongardner4219, will do!
That restoration and subsequent use of a very, very fine saw was nothing less that Absolute Craftsmanship!! Both on the original maker (when makers took pride and put passion into their work) and you Sir!! The final scene of that magnificent rip saw eating the lumber like a beast happily devouring a meal was EPIC! Pure delight on the "Silver Screen"!! Bravo!!
Thanks @donniewillis2926, glad you enjoyed it! It is indeed an incredible saw to use in person.
Love to see these old saws come back to life. I got a few myself
Thank god I found your channel. Finally someone that’s not afraid of a bit of hard work you did a lovely job on the old saw without power tools. You used the same prose’s as my farther did back in the day because he couldn’t afford new tools so restoring them to there former state. A pleasure to watch and your collection of proper tools is very impressive. You have left me one happy man thank you 👍👍👍😊😊😊♥️
Wow, thanks for the kind words! Welcome to the channel!
Very nice saw👌. I also really enjoy restoring old tools. They just have that certain charm. And the story behind it
Couldn't agree more @kennyodernicht7324 !
My first time watching andi enjoyed what I saw. Awesome restoration. It's great to see old tools restored and being used again. They work well today as they did in the time they did when they were made. Some people would trash them and buy a new one. You paid great attention on the job. Glad to see it.
Thanks Tommy, I couldn't agree more! Glad you enjoyed it!
Its a pleasure for me to watch what you'r doing with that old saw. Great restoration. Well done.
Thank you very much!
As someone who has been restoring antique tools, both hand and powered , I've neve seen or used motor oil to clean a blade before. It came out great. You could bring it back even more be using something like WD-40 which is not as heavy as motor oil. I think you may find any residue getting gummy after use in combination with sawdust and dirt. I would recommend not using find steel wool until after you sanded the grime off. If you use a fine grit it will take it right off. A heavier grit like 80 or 120 would remove the finish, which I do for a full restoration and after the wood is cleaned of dust, I would use as you did, Danish oil, or some other good penitrating oil. Hemp is very good as well. I would not put a shellac on, maybe wipe on poly, but honestly, the wood becomes very dry after 100 or more years and after the first application, I will go back a few more times, letting it dry in-between. Saws are one of my favorite tools to use and restore. I once came across a crudely painted saw at a tag sale. The had it hanging on the barn at one point. I looked very carefully and I had an idea that it was a mid 1800s saw and fairly rare. I bought for $8.00 and stripped the paint off. And sure enough it was an early limited produced Disston panel saw. It was worth a couple of hundred dollars 20 years ago, but I kept it instead. I use it occasionally, but it is hanging on the wall of my shop along with other tools I have collected. Even the rare handplanes I've restored, I use them all of the time. If I was going to sell them, I wouldn't use them. One of the rabbit planes
I have that is made out of nickle, brass, and Indian Rosewood. It's a gorgeous looking plane, but it also cuts like a hot knife thru butter. A real pleasure to use.
I look forward to your other videos! Thank you for posting this.
Thanks @crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230, I enjoyed reading your post!
Thank you for making and sharing this video. Very nice work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I was mightily relieved to see how you preserved the patina on the handle, using steel wool and not a belt sander!!! Kudos to you for for that. However I noticed you didn't restore the medallion? While I understand your concern for the piece, the best, and safest method is to use ammonia and 0000 grade still wool, not foregetting good vernitalion for the fumes. Gentle but firm rubbing will give you a magnificent finish that does not remove but polishes, thereby preserving any tiny marks that give the saw its character. The well-restored medallion puts the final touch to a remarkable antique saw that will delight everyone who sees it.
I'm going to have to try that.
Beautiful
Great video!
Thanks Craig!
Nice job on the saw. I have used water and wet/dry paper with good results but I think I will use your oil method next time. I have a can of butchers wax in the basement since the 70s that looks just like that. Count me in.
Awesome! There's nothing better than vintage Butcher's wax.
🎉🎉greetings from Suriname 🇸🇷. Nice job Sir
Thanks @harharmahadev5715 !
Finally, someone else that knows how to do the job right !.
Thank you James !
I'm fairly new to old handsaws. That's one beautiful ripping saw. I love that handle, I bet it feels amazing in the hand. I have a couple old Disston's & Sons that have a similar shape and I never get tired of holding them (and cutting with them). Great job!
Thank you! Yes it is lovely to hold. The craftsmen of old really took a lot of pride in the fit and finish of their saw handles. I have a few early 19th century examples that are works of art. I could do a whole video just on saw handles.
Very nice restoration, glad to see you kept the history of the saw rather than making it look brand new. You have a new subscriber. Hope to see more in the future.
Thanks Nick! Welcome to the channel!
Brillante y mucha paciencia
Gracias @leonardoarriagada7103 !
Nice work, I like how you preserved the age and patina. Saw is a bear.
Thank you. Yes it should last a few more lifetimes!
Very cool
Thank you!
It cuts true. Thank you
You bet!
Glad to see that you did not give the English resto treatment to the brass saw nuts and label. If the case of a very rusted saw with pitting I have been using a palm sander and one of the rust removal solutions. For a tarnish blade I might start with a very fine sand paper and see what happens.
Have you had any luck preserving the etching on any other projects of this age?
Hi Gary, I've been able to preserve the etch on many antique saws by using gentle methods. I focus on removing the loose orange/brown layer of surface rust by hand with scraping, fine sand paper, scotch bright, and steel wool, and stop once the dark layer of protective patina is reached. I avoid rust removers since they strip the patina along with the surface rust and tend to expose the steel to future rusting if not painted.
Nice job on the saw. I was wondering why you didn't use some Brasso and an old toothbrush on the bolts and the medallion. Do you have anyidea what kind of wood the handle is made from?
Thanks @kennethspeed2019! For antique tools, I prefer to keep the aged look of the brass with its natural patina. The handle is made of European beech.
🙋♂️👏👏👏👏👏👍
They just don’t make tools like that anymore. Nice job
Indeed. Thanks!
Would you please give more details and links to the Danish oil.
Thank you much
I used Watco danish oil: a.co/d/czT9JFG
So satisfying. Well done. First I've seen OW-40 used. What put you onto that?
Thank you Greg! 0W-40 is just the motor oil I have on hand. I often use
3-In-One oil as well.
You got such nice old tools- what do you think about a virtual workshop tour?
Greetings Tino
Thanks, that sounds like a great idea
Nice video, thanks. I'm wondering why you didn't 'set' the teeth. Although it does seem to track well during the rip.
Hi Don, good question! I often find that the teeth on old saws have been given too much set. In this case, they can be sharpened a few times before you have to set the teeth again. I like to work with a minimal amount of set - just enough to prevent binding but not so much that the saw rattles around in the kerf. High quality vintage saws were also "taper ground", meaning the steel is a bit thicker at the tooth line than along the back - this reduces the amount of set needed.
@@thehandtoolworks Thank you, that makes great sense.
I'll be looking for more vids.
do you need to flatten the teeth everytime you resharpen your saw?
hi @phaul, I run a file across the tips of the saw teeth (this is called jointing) to bring them to a uniform height before sharpening. This adds a small flat spot on each tooth which is then filed to a sharp point. On old saws, the teeth are usually badly uneven ('out of joint') so a lot of jointing is needed. Once the saw has been restored, I usually just very lightly joint (eg one or two light file strokes) before resharpening when needed. My aim is always to remove as little steel as possible to maximize the life of the saw.
How much is that saw approximately?
These are pretty rare so it's hard to say. Maybe 100-150 USD range depending on condition, but that's just a guess.
Mettez les gants de protection svp...
bonne idée :)
why do you use engine oil? :)
Hi Sebastian, that's just what I had on hand. something like 3-in-1 oil would also be fine.
I like the razor blade technique
Great video!
Thanks!