I like seeing I am not the only one able (and evidently obligated :D) to admit my own short comings in obtaining success every first try. It raises the question really, of those ...seeming... capable; how much video was cut off..? ...Btw, personal discovery; 4 cheap crate style, fixed direction wheels on a wooden plate makes a great hand manual horizontal rotor welding table for pipes and cylinder objects. So will also a "Lazy Susan" dining turn table thing for verticals. Ought to give you some nice, fully continous mig seams for these kind of creations.
Awesome work! Whole things really simple and not over engineered we need more of that in our lives. A minor suggestion: maybe throw one more port in the top for a sacrifical anode to keep it from rusting out in the future (your tank is steel right?) Could just use a normal water heater type aluminum one, or those powered ones are pretty spiffy I hear.
Thanks Brian, I’m glad you are enjoying the build and like the design! The KIS (keep It Simple) method is underrated. I was going to add a small RV water heater anode but decided to omit that as I will fill the unit/use the unit infrequently so there won’t be a lot of time for significant corrosion to occur.
your heater is faster than mine because your chimney is running through the geyser mine has a has a smaller setup thats feeding my std geyser because i didn't have the materials to fabricate one like yours making the chimney go through the whole of the geyser is the best way but hey we must make do with what we have but like i said i have a hell of a burner you should try hanging a rolled up stainless steel diamond wire mesh in the chimney that goes in the water heater part make sure to roll it up so that there is some gaps dont make it to dens or it will choke up or to little then it will just enough so that the gasses and flames gas pass through easy that will catch most of the soot and the mesh will get so hot it burns the soot away there is a smaller mesh on top of that big one with a 3rd cobustion chamber going over the smaller mesh sealing the big mesh and small mesh almost still leaving some gap for the exhaust to exit its kind of catalytic converter same principle just cheaper if you want to use a normal catalytic converter like for car it cant work soot blocks it quick so i came up with this stainless steel setup
im not criticising your work i love your setup i just want to share my burner with you so that you dont have cleaning issues im sure with your metering setup and a bit more airtight pressured setup meaning your burn bowl should become a sealed rocket shaped chamber that seals against the waterheater and by pressured setup i dont mean like compressor style No compressor needed olny 2fans should do the trick if you going for more power more cfm can add more fuel "oil" only enough cfm to keep the cobustion in the camber and flowing through the top more cfm and fuel will use different back pressures you just need to get the happy medium for your heater size but pressure is the key to clean burning and enough back pressure to keep the heat retained in the heater thus improves efficiency in the heater and giving you the clean burn that you want
and my setup is a closed setup with 2 welding machine fans all flames are contained in the first combustion camber sealed of against the water heater then in the heater goes the homemade catalytic converter causing just the right amount of back pressure finally getting to the 3rd combustion chamber super heating the smaler mesh making cleaner burning the mesh trick only works with a closed setup because a open setup cannot create the pressure needed to increase the temp thus creating the soot buildup regardless of little smoke that you are getting it just means the smoke is getting stucks to the edges of the cold places like the inside of the heater caused by the water cooling that part andin the chimney specially when it has bends alot of cleaning every day cleaning. i get close to 2000f i clean only the 1st burn chamer once a week to prevent oil overflow hence the charcoal like carbon bricket forming on the botom of the chamber i haven't cleaned the heater and chimney for an entire year
Great project! Wouldn't a blower help with the smoke? If you want the little amount of electricity used, probably even a danfoss nozzle with or without a blower should work with a bigger oil pump
no bad flakey soot flying everywhere and blocking the chimney, only smooth exhaust like powder like out of a cars exhaust pipe i promise you wont get a better burn. i can send you a drawing of my setup just pvt mail me and ill gladly give it
Kind of late for this but did you consider putting some sort of liner inside the water tank? Like those epoxy or vinyl ones sometimes they make them for motorcycle gas tanks i feel like i have seen some for water tanks but i'd have to research that a bit because I just cant put my finger on where I saw that... Anyway, I'm in the planning stages for a used oil heater but i was thinking about this too and you're the first I've come across, thanks for sharing I look forward to seeing it in action! also, a new subscriber...
I thought about it briefly but figured if I am filling and running it infrequently it should be fine. I didn’t want to choose the wrong product and have it fail either so a bit of fear of commitment. If I do choose to keep it filled there are outdoor wood boiler additives that help inhibit rust and I would probably go that route.
What about a steam jet in the near the top of the flue like they did on railroad steam engines. Steam has an expansion factor, with the right aiming in to chimney could ventri the smoke up while moving more air in too the fire zone?
the only thing im struggling with is the metering of the oil constant steady supply i dont have a metering pump plus there is a trick with the chimney pipe it doesnt need to be long
@@rad1876 yes i also put a longer pipe to blow the little noxfumes over the house so that we dont breathe them in but mine can run without a pipe with no smoke to check the exhaust smoke like i said i have a metering issue causing mine to over fuel causing excessive unwanted smoke that causes the soot and under fueling issues there but as soon as i have the gravity feed supply is the right amount and stability is runs like a jet .there is a trick in the chimney pipe without it mine starts smoking not a lot but enough to make soot to build up but as soon as i put that setup back runs perfect im still upgrading some things, but boil my house geyser 100L 45min to an hour convection style depends on outide temp if its cold then takes a bit longer to give you an idea with electricity takes 3 hours to get the geyser to 50dgre Cel with my setup 45 to 1hour with 1.5 - 2L oil boil it up tp 70dgre cel at the bottom like 90 at the top i get crazy results plus mine is still in upgrading process to get it to optimal performance ill share my design if you are interested i would like to see how yours works i have been at this waiste oil burning for 3years and a year ago i finally found a good clean burn now ill be looking at gasification kind of pyrolysis of the oil to get same performance with even less soot and charcoal like carbon buildup in the burn chamber hopefully
Yes, the rim has a large central hole that the tank sits over. Plus, the way I mounted it there is plenty of air gaps to allow air to circulate under the tank. On a similar thought, In hindsight I would use a larger diameter pipe for the combustion chamber intake.
Built mine few yrs ago, ran out of oil😂 love the "MORE ON" technique reminds me of my tank welding skils 😂🎉😢 Cleaning mine ruclips.net/video/StVJgbA7JII/видео.htmlsi=WqyIeqzn9zJGXmJn Several build& fire videos on my page. It uses air blower recycled parts .. Smoky is rich, needs more air holes to sucknair from, rim may be limiting air getting in.
It looks like our designs are not too different. I like your tank in a barrel idea, how does it work for shielding heat? I’m realizing that I will use up all my waste oil sooner than expected. Might need to start changing the truck oil monthly 😂.
@rad1876 the Drum works great. I used some insulation under the feet of the stove to the bottom of the drum. Side bonus was the roof leak was caught in the drum 😢😅. I intended to cut in a fan inlet hole to blow air around drum & stove.
I like seeing I am not the only one able (and evidently obligated :D) to admit my own short comings in obtaining success every first try. It raises the question really, of those ...seeming... capable; how much video was cut off..?
...Btw, personal discovery; 4 cheap crate style, fixed direction wheels on a wooden plate makes a great hand manual horizontal rotor welding table for pipes and cylinder objects. So will also a "Lazy Susan" dining turn table thing for verticals. Ought to give you some nice, fully continous mig seams for these kind of creations.
Awesome work! Whole things really simple and not over engineered we need more of that in our lives. A minor suggestion: maybe throw one more port in the top for a sacrifical anode to keep it from rusting out in the future (your tank is steel right?) Could just use a normal water heater type aluminum one, or those powered ones are pretty spiffy I hear.
Thanks Brian, I’m glad you are enjoying the build and like the design! The KIS (keep It Simple) method is underrated.
I was going to add a small RV water heater anode but decided to omit that as I will fill the unit/use the unit infrequently so there won’t be a lot of time for significant corrosion to occur.
@@rad1876 yeah well if that's the case it'll outlast you anyways! What are you planning on using the hot water in?
@@briang4914 output seems to be moderate so maybe a small soaking tub or a water to air heat exchanger to heat my shed.
@@rad1876 horse trough hot tub?
Nice job! You’ll get that dialed in soon
A bit more trial & error but I think I’m getting somewhere!
your heater is faster than mine because your chimney is running through the geyser mine has a has a smaller setup thats feeding my std geyser because i didn't have the materials to fabricate one like yours making the chimney go through the whole of the geyser is the best way but hey we must make do with what we have but like i said i have a hell of a burner you should try hanging a rolled up stainless steel diamond wire mesh in the chimney that goes in the water heater part make sure to roll it up so that there is some gaps dont make it to dens or it will choke up or to little then it will just enough so that the gasses and flames gas pass through easy that will catch most of the soot and the mesh will get so hot it burns the soot away there is a smaller mesh on top of that big one with a 3rd cobustion chamber going over the smaller mesh sealing the big mesh and small mesh almost still leaving some gap for the exhaust to exit its kind of catalytic converter same principle just cheaper if you want to use a normal catalytic converter like for car it cant work soot blocks it quick so i came up with this stainless steel setup
im not criticising your work i love your setup i just want to share my burner with you so that you dont have cleaning issues im sure with your metering setup and a bit more airtight pressured setup meaning your burn bowl should become a sealed rocket shaped chamber that seals against the waterheater and by pressured setup i dont mean like compressor style No compressor needed olny 2fans should do the trick if you going for more power more cfm can add more fuel "oil" only enough cfm to keep the cobustion in the camber and flowing through the top more cfm and fuel will use different back pressures you just need to get the happy medium for your heater size but pressure is the key to clean burning and enough back pressure to keep the heat retained in the heater thus improves efficiency in the heater and giving you the clean burn that you want
and my setup is a closed setup with 2 welding machine fans all flames are contained in the first combustion camber sealed of against the water heater then in the heater goes the homemade catalytic converter causing just the right amount of back pressure finally getting to the 3rd combustion chamber super heating the smaler mesh making cleaner burning the mesh trick only works with a closed setup because a open setup cannot create the pressure needed to increase the temp thus creating the soot buildup regardless of little smoke that you are getting it just means the smoke is getting stucks to the edges of the cold places like the inside of the heater caused by the water cooling that part andin the chimney specially when it has bends alot of cleaning every day cleaning. i get close to 2000f i clean only the 1st burn chamer once a week to prevent oil overflow hence the charcoal like carbon bricket forming on the botom of the chamber i haven't cleaned the heater and chimney for an entire year
Great project! Wouldn't a blower help with the smoke? If you want the little amount of electricity used, probably even a danfoss nozzle with or without a blower should work with a bigger oil pump
@@giovannicesaramorim9adigan961 I did end up adding a blower later on. It works great after that addition
my chimney looks like a proper running diesel
no bad flakey soot flying everywhere and blocking the chimney, only smooth exhaust like powder like out of a cars exhaust pipe i promise you wont get a better burn. i can send you a drawing of my setup just pvt mail me and ill gladly give it
just make an oil burner so will give it a go upgrading it to water boiler now too thank you
My next version will be more of a boiler type!
Kind of late for this but did you consider putting some sort of liner inside the water tank? Like those epoxy or vinyl ones sometimes they make them for motorcycle gas tanks i feel like i have seen some for water tanks but i'd have to research that a bit because I just cant put my finger on where I saw that... Anyway, I'm in the planning stages for a used oil heater but i was thinking about this too and you're the first I've come across, thanks for sharing I look forward to seeing it in action! also, a new subscriber...
I thought about it briefly but figured if I am filling and running it infrequently it should be fine. I didn’t want to choose the wrong product and have it fail either so a bit of fear of commitment.
If I do choose to keep it filled there are outdoor wood boiler additives that help inhibit rust and I would probably go that route.
What about a steam jet in the near the top of the flue like they did on railroad steam engines. Steam has an expansion factor, with the right aiming in to chimney could ventri the smoke up while moving more air in too the fire zone?
Yes! I have seen this design implemented in a DIY boiler. I don’t plan on going over 100c (212f) so it wouldn’t be as helpful in my case.
the only thing im struggling with is the metering of the oil constant steady supply i dont have a metering pump plus there is a trick with the chimney pipe it doesnt need to be long
I seem to prefer the long pipe. I tried switching back to the short one and I appreciate how the exhaust is higher up rather than at head level.
@@rad1876 yes i also put a longer pipe to blow the little noxfumes over the house so that we dont breathe them in but mine can run without a pipe with no smoke to check the exhaust smoke like i said i have a metering issue causing mine to over fuel causing excessive unwanted smoke that causes the soot and under fueling issues there but as soon as i have the gravity feed supply is the right amount and stability is runs like a jet .there is a trick in the chimney pipe without it mine starts smoking not a lot but enough to make soot to build up but as soon as i put that setup back runs perfect im still upgrading some things, but boil my house geyser 100L 45min to an hour convection style depends on outide temp if its cold then takes a bit longer to give you an idea with electricity takes 3 hours to get the geyser to 50dgre Cel with my setup 45 to 1hour with 1.5 - 2L oil boil it up tp 70dgre cel at the bottom like 90 at the top i get crazy results plus mine is still in upgrading process to get it to optimal performance ill share my design if you are interested i would like to see how yours works i have been at this waiste oil burning for 3years and a year ago i finally found a good clean burn now ill be looking at gasification kind of pyrolysis of the oil to get same performance with even less soot and charcoal like carbon buildup in the burn chamber hopefully
So now its sucking in the air from the hole's in the car rim?,i live in a van in England and this looks just what I'm looking for.
Yes, the rim has a large central hole that the tank sits over. Plus, the way I mounted it there is plenty of air gaps to allow air to circulate under the tank.
On a similar thought, In hindsight I would use a larger diameter pipe for the combustion chamber intake.
Thanks this is the simplest one I've seen that makes sense to me
I think your burner has to many hole, the velocity of the draft across the oil will cause more of a burn like adding oxygen to a torch.
I was thinking the same thing. I also don’t like the fact that those air holes are fixed size so I’m coming up with an adjustable design.
i get minimum soot buildup and my setup is much smaller
Smoke was due to being fuel rich. Adding a blower did the trick.
Bad idea, smoking bad.
Built mine few yrs ago, ran out of oil😂 love the "MORE ON" technique reminds me of my tank welding skils 😂🎉😢
Cleaning mine ruclips.net/video/StVJgbA7JII/видео.htmlsi=WqyIeqzn9zJGXmJn
Several build& fire videos on my page. It uses air blower recycled parts ..
Smoky is rich, needs more air holes to sucknair from, rim may be limiting air getting in.
It looks like our designs are not too different. I like your tank in a barrel idea, how does it work for shielding heat?
I’m realizing that I will use up all my waste oil sooner than expected. Might need to start changing the truck oil monthly 😂.
@rad1876 the Drum works great. I used some insulation under the feet of the stove to the bottom of the drum. Side bonus was the roof leak was caught in the drum 😢😅.
I intended to cut in a fan inlet hole to blow air around drum & stove.