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This video should explain that part of the build. ruclips.net/video/4L223veC2bk/видео.htmlsi=hSIvDzPvY3ni2ZWt

Good question. Off the top of my head, without pricing out everything in detail I’d say somewhere in the $500 range. It’s the little things such as the oil pump and control that quickly add up. If you were to go with a drip feed, maybe a bit less. Other expensive part is shipping, the heavy & bulky unit will be expensive to ship.

@@rad1876 Thanks for your fast response. I'm thinking about hooking something like this to my Central Outdoor Boiler wood burning stove to reduce the amount of wood i burn every year. I live in northern Minnesota and go through 8 to 12 cords per year. I thought I could supplement that by burning waste oil from farm equipment. Do you think its possible with this unit?

The idea to supplement your wood usage is sound but as usual execution is everything. I would say this design is light duty, not meant for many hundred hours of continuous use. Operation is still somewhat crude and requires supervision, with enhancements it could be more autonomous. Aside from a bit of tweaking it could work great at using your used oil and you can get some extra BTUs from it.

@@rad1876 Thanks for your input. Im thinking of installing the waste oil burner ahead of my wood boiler on the cold water return line. This would dump the preheated water into my hot water storage tank on the wood boiler which is regulated to 180 degrees. I would then use the controls on the wood boiler stove to circulate the hot water through my infloor heat.Any thoughts on this? Thanks.

I didn’t change this design radically from my first attempt so I could reuse several components. The air inlet is at the bottom on both versions so that prevents me from exhausting downward. The combustion gasses do make their way through a lengthy route before making their way up the chimney.

@@giovannicesaramorim9adigan961 I did end up adding a blower later on. It works great after that addition

Yes, I have been thinking of some kind of vinyl but securing it is a challenge. Staples wouldn’t get a good bite into the foam. The wet environment is a challenge to work with. I’ve been having a hard time getting the two layers of 2” foam to permanently bond. Best I get was 6 months using 3M 78 contact adhesive.

Round was a bit challenging, square should be easy to tackle. Next time I would consider a thin layer of foam insulation, then some Roxul to increase the insulation R-value.

$100 for the crate. Probably another $150-200 for the other materials so $300ish.

no bad flakey soot flying everywhere and blocking the chimney, only smooth exhaust like powder like out of a cars exhaust pipe i promise you wont get a better burn. i can send you a drawing of my setup just pvt mail me and ill gladly give it

I seem to prefer the long pipe. I tried switching back to the short one and I appreciate how the exhaust is higher up rather than at head level.

@@rad1876 yes i also put a longer pipe to blow the little noxfumes over the house so that we dont breathe them in but mine can run without a pipe with no smoke to check the exhaust smoke like i said i have a metering issue causing mine to over fuel causing excessive unwanted smoke that causes the soot and under fueling issues there but as soon as i have the gravity feed supply is the right amount and stability is runs like a jet .there is a trick in the chimney pipe without it mine starts smoking not a lot but enough to make soot to build up but as soon as i put that setup back runs perfect im still upgrading some things, but boil my house geyser 100L 45min to an hour convection style depends on outide temp if its cold then takes a bit longer to give you an idea with electricity takes 3 hours to get the geyser to 50dgre Cel with my setup 45 to 1hour with 1.5 - 2L oil boil it up tp 70dgre cel at the bottom like 90 at the top i get crazy results plus mine is still in upgrading process to get it to optimal performance ill share my design if you are interested i would like to see how yours works i have been at this waiste oil burning for 3years and a year ago i finally found a good clean burn now ill be looking at gasification kind of pyrolysis of the oil to get same performance with even less soot and charcoal like carbon buildup in the burn chamber hopefully

Smoke was due to being fuel rich. Adding a blower did the trick.

Generators have a built in fan that draws cool air in from one end, and exhausts it out the other to cool the engine. I am using the engine fan, just extending the path that cool air takes coming in and extending the path the hot air takes to leave.

Around 2 years old and they start to make nice offshoot branches. You want a single “whip” with no additional branches so it’s usually new growth from the previous year. Watering really depends on soil type. Some years if the ground is saturated watering isn’t necessary. If the surrounding soil is dry, I have set up drip irrigation to put 1 gallon every other day. In general the poplar trees can tolerate a large swing from saturated to completely dry.

Thank you so much! That is so helpful 🌳🌳🌳🌳

I have used Wilson Roots and Stim-Root #2 with great results. Both have 0.4% IBA which is the active ingredient.

Thanks for the comment! I’d say the loss is negligible with no perceived detrimental effects. I have used both powder and gel rooting hormone. To get good adhesion I wet the cutting end for the powder, for the gel I dry the cutting end. By doing this I probably get 500% more hormone than required so I can stand to lose some. I don’t think your method is wrong, if it works keep it up!

100% laziness 😂, good thing you didn’t notice that is running wasaaay to slow.

I built a 60” Harley rake for my tractor 3pt about 8 years ago. Since then the frame has been repurposed into a lawn roller/aerator.

Glad it was helpful!

Awesome, glad I can help!

Coolness, good 👍

Thank you for checking out the video and for your comment!

I went with stainless in case the burner gets out of hand, or insufficient water flow. Based on previous experience it would melt copper, the stainless should be fine even if I run it dry. I have had more, but still limited experience bending copper tube. Still not much easier, but definitely softer. I tried freezing water in it to prevent kinking but also heard filling with sand is an option. The SS304 compression fittings I got should be perfect, if not better for tighter/sharper bends that I think will work in my favour.

Thanks!

I’m not planning on using this in a closed system, but if I were I definitely would!

Thank you.

The Shop is called Grain to Glass.

The controller is a FX1N 20mr (bought off Amazon) and uses GXworks2. Gx works 2 is the Mitsubishi PLC programming app. You can make a Functional Block Diagram or regular ladder logic.

Yes you could, although depending on your location they may not get well established before freeze up. I believe the freeze/that cycle they get when rooting them in Jan/feb may help kick start growth. You could wait a bit longer and plant them in October, they should start up the following spring.

@@rad1876 or can you take them in august and store them until next spring?

I think you could although I haven’t done it myself. You would need to keep them frozen so they don’t break dormancy and wrapped so they don’t loose moisture through freezer burn.

Just add snow!

Having done the hydro I would seriously consider a gear drive using a small truck drivetrain with a 4cyl engine.

@@rad1876 my experience and confidence is in gear drive and I appreciate your insight and it basically supports the way I was leaning. I owned a big ten passenger hydrostatic cat years ago and ultimately got rid of it due to intimidation of cost maintenance. Nice build you did though, very impressive.

Good question, Not enough vertical space between the inlet & outlet on the tub. Going vertical would have added more fittings and complexity and I wanted to keep the setup as compact as possible.

It should work, it takes 3-4 weeks for roots to begin to develop and the cutting to produce leaves. Depending on your geographic location that might be enough time to establish before winter although I’m not sure how well they may survive.

It has definitely escalated from a hillbilly hot tub.

Thanks 👍

Yes, the rim has a large central hole that the tank sits over. Plus, the way I mounted it there is plenty of air gaps to allow air to circulate under the tank. On a similar thought, In hindsight I would use a larger diameter pipe for the combustion chamber intake.

Thanks this is the simplest one I've seen that makes sense to me

No, I had to elevate with some 1/2” steel scraps. Ultimately I mounted it to a steel truck rim in the next video.

@@rad1876 looks cool

@@steveffuksake thanks, I appreciate that!