MSD Super HEI kit install
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
- A detailed walkthrough of installing a MSD Super HEI kit ignition system (Digital 6AL box, Blaster 2 coil, and HEI to external coil conversion dust cover) on a 1969 chevelle 454 BBC. (Dont forget to select 1080HD from your RUclips settings for clarity)
(amazon affiliated links)
MSD Super HEI kit link: amzn.to/30wG9Oe
Timeline:
0:00 - explaining product, instructions, previous issues, and plan
6:18- MSD Box locating and explaining
9:11- MSD Box mounting
10:57- external ignition coil mounting modification and explaining
13:05- external ignition coil mounted
13:35- factory HEI dust cover removal
15:07- removing factory HEI coil from cap
16:51- installing low resistance bushing **@ 16:54 I installed the bushing and rubber insulator incorrectly. The bushing should go in the cap first with spring up, followed by the rubber insulator.**
17:00- Super HEI dust cover installed
17:39- cap removal
18:24- ignition control module removal
21:19- MSD harness to HEI pick up coil installed
22:18- reinstall cap
23:30- wiring explanation
26:04- resetting timing and spark plug gaps
26:57- double check and start up
Though lengthy, I hope you find my install video helpful. I try to upload videos that do not previously exist. I couldn’t find one of this specific kit, so I took the time to document my install so that others interested in the kit or similar installs have some guidance and understanding before spending their money. I’ve been happy with the upgrade thus far. The engine starts immediately , I can definitely tell a difference in low end throttle response, as well as almost eliminating the common carb’d engine raw fuel smell in the exhaust.
******if you followed my bushing install @ 16:51, don't forget to install bushing first with spring up before installing the rubber insulator...In the video clip i had inadvertently put the rubber insulator in before the bushing, and this will not allow the bushing to touch the rotor under the cap.****** 
Хобби
Gator
Finally got MSD Super HEI done and it appears to fix my issues I had. Thanks for all your help.
This is great news!! Give me a shout on Facebook or Instagram and show me what you go, maybe shoot a video..
facebook.com/JKHartel3
instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=3zf11ps6arbx
Awesome job. Thanks for such a detailed video. I'm actually doing this tonight and this is the only step by step video I've found.
That’s great! This one is for you bud. You’re going to be happy with the outcome! What is the vehicle?
@@GatorOverland 79 Z28. I got the same exact setup you just installed but used so no instructions. The guy said he could help this weekend but I need it Friday for test n tune at the track and I'll be using your video to get it done tonight
Struggle and Strive , That’s going to be perfect… The install is pretty straightforward, it’s just finding good placement and tidying up the wires, but it is 79 Camaro configuration it should be pretty similar as my 69 Chevelle…Let me know if you should have any questions, if not… Good luck at the track
@@GatorOverland awesome I will. Just trying to see how fast it will go n/a before we try and add boost over the winter.
Struggle and Strive you have plenty of range in that little red box, that’s for sure!
and the red small wire form the MSD connects to existing 12v ignition on wire. Gotcha , Thank you so much
Bingo!
The HEI in-the-cap coil is normally the problem. When it gets hot, the coil will start to layer short and then eventually smoke the module. It will read fine on the continuity tester because by the time you get it off vehicle, it'll cool down. I have yet to find a parts store with the tester and knowledge to be able to test them. The best idea is to do what you did, which is to go remote coil. I'd avoid the msd remote coil adapter. I've had issues with the one I had, it started giving me continuity issues. I ended up making my own via 3d printing. I would also recommend using a regular points coil without the resistor. If you search for a guy on the internet by the name Dave Ray, he's got a bunch of posts on different forums describing some of the issues on the internal coil and epoxy coils (they hold heat, unlike the oil filled coils). He also has the setup to get the best performance out of the timing of the large cap distributor.
You should be able to get the module checked at a parts store, and it AND the extra wiring that came with the external coil adapter will be needed to convert back to Inductive because you'll need to put the red wire, that you're using to tell the box the ignition is on, back to the positive coil wire and the ground wire to the coil will come from the module so the module can collapse the field via the ground. I'd also keep some heat sink compound with it. You won't need a lot, especially since you've gone external coil.
.045 is a good gap and I wouldn't go more than that with MSD or regular HEI module.
Cool video, thanks for making it.
Thanks for the reply and shared knowledge. Since the parts have become available for the AVS2 I’ve since tuned the carb we are running like a top. Really liking the $1.38 fuel prices.. but 16-18mpg in a 454 isn’t too bad either (when my foot isn’t it) it used to be 9-12mpg on a good day. The new UMI coilover suspension was worth every dime
@@GatorOverland is there no seal for the wiper cowl? If water gets past the hood it will get into the cap and coil cover and will short out either the coil or ignition coil or both and cause the same hard starting and eventually end up leaving you stranded with no spark or not enough spark to fire the engine
Yes, in a distributor any condensation under the cap can be a bad situation… The Is easy enough to remove and let air out if that’s the case. You’d have to hit a pretty good mud puddle to get water under the cap. As far as the ignition components go they are mostly waterproof and have boots that are sealed pretty tight… I think he would have to submerge the vehicle to cause any problems. People use these in boats too.
Thank you so much for this video . I have an s10 blazer with a sbc that I want to install a 6al with a 2 step for shits and giggles. This helps a whole lot!
You bet!! My first vehicle was a s10 blazer. I put a peppy 400sbc in it.. fucking rocket! Gas was 87cents then too! Let me know if you have any questions.
I installed one on my 66 Chevelle big block car. I was running Delco 44s. The brand new set of plugs would only let the engine run about 7 minutes. I could hear cylinders dropping. After installing MSD I had no issues at all
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Did you buy one from ebay for $45.00 ?
Hi, you should think about changing that fuel filter, they are known to unscrew and start to leak sure don't want to see your car go up in 🔥.
Thanks for the tip! I have since relocated the filter to a can style before the electric fuel pump
Your heat soak problem is with the starter. Either get a shield for it or swap it for a HD starter or just install a HD armature. The HD GM starters have a larger armature in it which came in my 70 Z28. BTW that glass inline fuel filter is a disaster waiting to happen. For one thing, get it away from the heater core hoses. They leak and the glass will eventually crack from the heat and over tightening the rubber seals. I swapped mine for a 3/8” metal Corvette filter, GM GF61P part # 854619. My MSD 6420 box is mounted beside the battery with a L bracket I made that’s mounted using a inner fender bolt. One more thing, when using a box only increase your plug gap by 5 thou. IE my stock gap is .035 so I went to .040. When I tested .045, it had a stumble going through the gears and driving at 2500, 3000 and up rpm. MSD says to open the gap up pretty large depending on your compression ratio but opening it up too much will make the ignition components work harder and they will eventually die which MSD will be glad to hear so you can spend more $ to buy another box. I also put an inline fuse on my + MSD red wire to the battery and also the red thinner wire on the fuse box ignition port. MSD says you don’t need a fuse but I like the protection rather than frying the box. My tach did not work at the coil with my box so I used the tach connection on the box by extending the factory brown wire. For your future videos, you really should cut the music, it’s really distracting. You also don’t use dielectric grease under a module, you buy computer chip heat sync grease.
Thank for the valuable reply. The heat soak issue I was having ended up being a defective pick up coil in the distributor. Replaced the distributor and haven’t had a problem in 12k miles or so. I have since rerouted the fuel lines similar to what you have mentioned for the same reasons. You are right about the radio. I no longer have the radio on when I do my videos. You find out after everything is installed that it’s annoying to have in the video. I’m at .040 too for the same reasons. I also installed the AVS2 spring/jet kit and I’m getting 16mpg until I put my foot in it.. it’s a lot better than 9-10mpg I was getting before. Have a good one
Gator_Overland I have my Vette gas filter under my alternator bracket unseen.
Great instructional video complemented by some Soundgarden, nice video!
Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions! Totally worth it!
Great Video good Job explaining and going into details.
You bet, thanks for watching and commenting
Wow nice. I just got a msd distributor pro billet ready to run efi 8451 for my 92 f-150 5.8 ,also the msd tfi coil blaster and msd digital 6a ignition controllers 6201 along with jdm speed spark plug wires 10.5MM
Will it add any HP? And I took off my fan clutch and went electric dual fans so it would take off stress of the engine
If it does, it’s not much to notice.. your advantage is that you will maintain optimum spark throughout your RPM range under load, where other units have an tendency to plateau or performance falls or spark inconsistency develops at higher rpm under load. It will make your existing horsepower more efficient if that makes sense..
@@GatorOverland sounds good! Thanks boss man
coming from a parts guy usually the ignition control module comes with a pack of grease that is used for the heat.
Dominic lupo thanks for the reply. I’m familiar with the white heat sink compound as well, and thought it was of that they didn’t include it in the package. I don’t think it would hurt anything to had it on there, but they assured me it was designed to be dry.
Thank you for a great instructional video. I’m installing mine today
Sixstringer Xx good deal! Thanks for the reply! It’s not too bad, just make good plans and then it’s plug and play.. what vehicle is it going on?
john hartel 1970 elcamino ss
john hartel sucks I would post a pic but it won’t let me
Sixstringer Xx that is definitely a drawback of RUclips, but either way I hope it goes well for you
Great job and what a clean set true professional
Thanks Shawn, I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. I enjoyed doing it and it’s definitely made a difference!
Just hooked my msd up today , hugh difference
Awesome!! What car, what engine ?
Thanks Dude I needed this
You bet!! It is a game changer!
Very good info, hope you can help me here, I have a missing msd box"somebody steal it"my distributor has from the bottom the violet green wires, look like only need the msd box to make it work, what do you think? Advice are well appreciated
Thanks! Yes, the purple and green white is the signal from the pickup coil down in the dizzy. That’s what signals the MSD the shaft is rotating. That should be all you need to connect besides the other wires in the harness to tach, coil, power, ground etc
The heat soak is morn likely at your starter. If you don’t have a HD armature then it will have problems with heat. Edit, I think I would have wanted to test the factory module with heat sink lube on it to see if that was the problem.
I’ve had starter heat soak issues in other vehicles… This isn’t the case because the starter was actually working turning over, just no fire... The starter is a brand new high torque HD starter as well..
Great video. Msd box comes wit 12v wire and tach wire. So what happens to those original wires? Thank you
Just tape them up.
you have an aftermarket tach correct? I don't understand how the tach works if the wire coming out of the tach is not connected.
You connect tach wire to to the MSD tach signal (gray) wire instead of the traditional location on the hei distributor.. see 7:30 in the video
Icm $15 part, last week i was charged $30+
Correct me if I'm wrong but the vacuum advance should be on the other side of the carburetor like the passenger side
Todd The Lone Droner Mummert sr. There are multiple ports on the carb for vacuum, both ported (metered) above throttle plates and manifold vacuum below throttle plates (high rpm or racing applications). Depending on you’re driving requirements or preference, as long as you’re around 36deg advanced at approx 3000rpm (initial + mechanical) and vacuum advance disconnected, it doesn’t really matter what vacuum your plugged into. Ported vacuum was an emissions stunt of the era, but technically it’s up to you to decide what makes your engine run best per your tuning. I hope that answers your question.
I appreciate your thoroughness. How much did it cost for the kit, and did it correct the warm starting condition that you had?
Thanks for the reply! i really appreciate that!! They usually run between $350 and $400, but i found it on special through summit after last Xmas for $280ish, so i hopped on it! Overall, i couldn't be happier with the upgrade, though i did reveal the actual issue as being the ignition Accel HEI module overheating and cutting out from no heat sink compound, i do now benefit from easy starting, even with low battery voltage (
Your bushing was installed incorrectly. I believe the bushing should go in the cap first with the round rubber piece on top then the coil. You have the round rubber piece in the cap first then the bushing then the coil. The way you have it the bushing would never touch the rotor.
GOTT EEM!!! i knew sooner or later someone would catch that. You are exactly right! i had stuck the bushing in insulator to keep them together and intended to mention to put bushing goes in first during my video clip, but as i was doing these one handed and off the cuff i failed to remove the bushing from the insulator first before installing. If i had known how to do the blooper subtitle at the time before uploading i would have noted that my install order was backwards. I did catch this when i was doing my final checks after i took the video. Thanks for that bud. Maybe i should list this mistake in my description
I probably should have done it sooner, but i now have that as a big note in my description. Thanks again for the catch, and for watching. Ive been super happy with the performance, especially after i re-jetted the carb and installed the UMI coilovers at 4 corners..
Great Video, I have a 1970 Chevelle. Just put a 383 stroker motor in the car. Car runs great put if the engine temps get near 200 the car will stall and will not start for like an hour. This may be the same problem you were having? This system should help solve my problem? Where did you get your kit and do you have a pert number?
Thanks
Tom
Thanks for the reply Thomas. That sounds like a bad ass setup you have .. I’ll be honest, I was throwing money at a problem in hopes that it would either fix or reveal the issue in the process, but at the same I was increasing efficiency. I mentioned in the video that I thought it was the ignition control module (19:08) because the heat dissipation grease wasn’t on the contact. While that was an astute observation, it still wasn’t the problem. The MSD is a “super” control module, so unless defective itself it would have more than fixed the issue. Well... I buttoned everything up and after I showed it starting (27:32)... I wouldn’t start again after that. What the FU@k right? Well i did some more research.. the only thing it could have been was the pickup coil down in the distributor. I had less than 100miles on the dizzy, so I pulled it and brought it back to advanced auto. They actually swapped it out for an upgraded unit if the same model. I stabbed it back in ...again.... and Boom.. that engine fired up like it’s never fired before. I got the timing reset...again... the exhaust even sounded different.. and smelled so much better. I’ve driven now 12k with no problems..and since the AVS2 tune kit has become available, I’ve dialed it in and I’m getting 17mpg vs the 9-12mpg I was getting before.. and HELLLA POWER!!!! When you mash the skinny pedal. I’m so happy with the outcome. Long story short.. if you have a way to test the pickup coil, try that.. they cost about $50 to replace and they are a pain in the ass.. $50-$80 and you have a new distributor. Get a new dizzy, make sure it has the heat grease under the ignition module if you decide to opt out of the 6AL upgrade....but... I will say the 6AL has made a huge driving improvement in overall performance and efficiency. Let me know how it goes for you. Shoot a pic of your car to hawkijon@aol.com
Thanks you for the quick reply. This is some great information. I have replaced the distributor and he same issues continued. I even through in as large of a radiator with duel electric fans to help keep the motor cooler, the car runs about 12 degrees cooler but he same results. 35 to 50 min in hot weather and the car gets near 200 degrees bam no power? I originally though it may be vapor locking. Replaced fuel lines, moved them as far away from he headers as possible. Heat wrapped them, new aeromotive tank and high pressure fuel pump. Fuel pressure maintains 6 to 7 Lbs. 650 Holly Brawler carb, no evidence of any fuel boiling. I think I will go ahead and try the kit and see if this fixes the stall problem.
Again thanks for all the great video ideas and info, I will send you some pics, of the car.
Thank You
Thomas
How come you didn’t require a ballast resistor?
Ballast resistor is not required with HEI distributor, but was required on old points style distributor. HEI requires constant 12v from an ignition source while cranking/on
Just purchased one on eBay can't wait to receive it in the mail, do you know how many volts that external coil is?
It should come with a blaster SS coil model 8207 and is 40,000 volts max voltage
@@GatorOverland do you know the prt# for that special Cap
@yourmom705 8401
I made my external coil adapter
Nice! Makes all the difference in the world. Thanks for the reply!
I noticed that early in the video, you had your vacuum advance attached to the manifold vacuum port on your Edelbrock carburetor. Then at the end of the video, the vacuum advance is attached to the ported/timed vacuum port on your Edelbrock. Most techs that I have consulted say that the ported/timed port was an emissions stunt from the 1970's and that the vacuum advance should always be attached to the manifold vacuum port. Just wondering if you noticed any difference with either location. Also, I am thinking about getting an Edelbrock AVS2 carburetor for my 1970 Corvette with a small block 350. Do you like the AVS2 system annular flow booster design? Thanks.
dojmike very good eye my friend. You couldn’t me more right about the locations for the vacuum. I tried it both ports for idle tuning after the install just to see if there was any difference, and there wasn’t enough to justify switching from manifold to ported. My previous eddy carb was junk and only ran proper with the ported vacuum on the stick manifold. As far as the AVS2... whoa, night and day difference! It responds like a FI intake compared to a standard booster. I do wish I held out for the 800, but seen I am mostly daily driver this one is just fine. MSD and AVS2 boosted my fuel economy 16-18mph in my mild 454. I also recently added the Thompson performance power blast plate..I highly recommend it too for the money big difference low end
thompsonperformance.com/ and put the eddy performer rpm air gap intake. She’s breathing proper now. And with The UMI coilover added I can keep all the “go” in one direction.
@@GatorOverland Thanks for the words, and the AVS2 recommendation. I have a 1970 Corvette and unfortunately, I have hood clearance challenges. I probably can only use an Edelbrock 21011 intake manifold with the 650 AVS2, and no insulating plate bigger than 1/4 inch. Would love an AirGap, but it is just too tall. I also looked at the Thompson Power Blast Plate and it looks interesting. They are located in Rancho Cordova, CA and I'm in Rocklin, CA - about a half hour drive away. Since I have a small block, I think I'm OK with the 650. I have a 600 1406 on my 1971 El Camino SBC and it works great. Thanks for the comeback!
dojmike you bet! I know corvettes have limited clearance with standard hoods, but the AVS2 will be a game changer in your Fiberglass rocket.. my steel Chevelle loves every gallon 😂😂😂
@@GatorOverland 0
Going Holley sniped efi soon on my 78 camaro, do you think I should still get the msd ignition?
Absolutely! It made a huge difference on engine performance. Sniper efi is going on mine soon as well.
have u try the big 3
What is the big 3?
Hey john I have a sbc 350 and just bought the kit I’m still confused on the red wire routing for the key on, I was wondering where you hook that in to
Mark Brothers depending on the previous distributor setup you had (mine was hei) the small wire that plugs into the + spade on the distributor cap is where you splice to. The other spade connector is (-) and usually says TACH.
see at about (13:40) thats where i mention the location of the wire you need to splice/connect to. All i had to do was put a male spade connector on the red wire coming from the MSD box and connect it to the female wire that was originally connected to the (+) spade on the distributor cap. Its that simple. If you had a tach wire connected to the distributor as well, you would do just the same and spade connect that wire to the grey coming from the MSD box.
Did you put the rotor back or not
The rotor still functions as normal and is under the cap… That’s what sends the power from the coil to each spark plug… The coil rather than being under the cap is placed on the firewall
Your kidding right?
Hi I'm thinking of buying this super HEi kit. I'm currently running the old 6A box that came with a non HEI distributor/rotor. Mine does not have that piece that you took at that u said easnt lubricated. I'm having issues with my 442 not starting just like you were. I want to upgrade to this kit but wasnt sure if it came with everything I needed or if I had to buy a new HEI distributor/ rotor or I bbn I could just buy this kit and the bushing and hook it up like you did. Please let me know your thoughts . Thanks.
I believe the main difference in the 6A box vs the 6AL Is the AL has a rev limiter, while that is a nice upgrade it isn’t necessary unless you seek that limiting factor for safety. The rest of the function is essentially the same. If you say you are running a non-HEI currently (points or similar sized billet dizzy that requires external coil), then you would definitely need an HEI dizzy to run the kit in my video. In my experience I came to find the problem was actually the pickup coil (not to be confused with the actual coil) in the existing dizzy, where I though it was the ECM which is what the MSD box replaced.. The same issues were happening after installed everything and was very frustrating. Finally at one point after install I went though a full battery charge and flooding and couldn’t get it to lite.. finally decided to pull the dizzy (advanced swapped it for warranty) popped in the new one and BOOM! It fired off like never before and had been running like a top ever since.. so, before you go down the rabbit hole and money spending, consider getting the pickup coil tested, and or invest in a new dizzy.. then go the path of the MSD box upgrade.. with performer RPM intake, 650 AVS2 Edelbrock carb that is now tuned, and MSD combo, I’ve come from a raw fuel 9mpg to non-fuel efficient 16mpg in my mild 454.. I love it.. keep in touch, let me know how it goes.
@@GatorOverland thanks for the reply. Seems like I may be better off just replacing my dizzy to the upgraded pro billet hei model and hooking it up to my current 6a box.
At this time, I think that’s the right thing to do..🤘🏼
@@GatorOverland thanks so much brother
@@GatorOverland I will also have to get new hei plug wires also because they are different right
How do u find out Wich is orange and black on the coil ..how did u check polarity
You will see a distinct (+) and (-) on the coil housing.. orange goes to (+).. see page 9 of the link documents.holley.com/85001.pdf
Yep that is exactly what I was asking thanks buddy how does she run after that did it give instant power, because u are getting a hotter spark
@@jaimezapien4897 there seemingly an increase in power, but i wouldn't say its specifically an increase in horsepower as much as it is increasing the efficiency of the engines horsepower potential due to spark efficiency. I don't smell the faint raw fuel smell at idle any more, and the power does not fade at higher rpm due to slight voltage drop or misfires as it did with a standard HEI. So yes, the power is felt in points of the rpm range that it wasnt previously. I also manage 16-17mpg now...it was at 9-12mpg prior...
Does that work with a Chevy L98 TPI motor?
I’m not sure, you might have to go with a 6A+ digital. Just call them, they will line you out. With that engine, a good blaster coil may be all you need.
Niiice car... Nice video n
Thanks for the reply! It was definitely a worthy upgrade. I’m getting 15-16 mpg in a 454 now. It was 9-10mpg. I’m definitely enjoying the fuel prices while they are low!
Do u think the upgrade will work with solid core spark plug wires?
Speed Metal thanks for the reply! No, unfortunately it states very clearly that solid core wires emit too much EMI and will interfere with the trigger wire, which could be detrimental for the box and the engine.
try moving your fuel lines where they dont get hot smart guy lol!!!! :))
if it aint liquid it dont mix right lol
Thanks for the reply! I have since rerouted the fuel line to the front of the block behind the water pump, which would be the factory routing for a mechanical fuel pump to keep it cooler and it worked a bit better, but it didn’t totally solve my fuel problem. I run a electric fuel pump to the regulator set at 5psi. Come to find out I was getting pressure creep when sitting at idle sometimes going up to 7&9 psi and actually force flooding the carb. To solve this problem I installed a tee in the regulator outlet going to the pressure gauge put the gauge one once side and a barb that I tapped for a Holley .060” jet as an orifice on the other side and ran a return line back to the tank. I haven’t had an issue since, maintains a creepless 5psig and is a scalded ape all the way through the RPM range, no cut outs.
Been eyeing this my self. Is it all it's cracked up to be?
Thanks for the reply! To answer, absolutely one of the best investments I’ve done so far. Economy, power.. and power.. did I say power? It was good with my eddy avs, but when i replaced the ignition system, not only did it come alive, but the raw fuel smell is gone. I have since properly tuned the carb and installed the coilover suspension.. I get 16-18 mpg cruise at 55 in a 454 with 3.08 gears.. it used to be 9-12mph.. that was worth it in itself, but the response is definitely noticeable. I recommend, just make sure you have a good HEI to begin with.
Thanks for the quick reply. 16-18 is great for a big block. I couldn't hold out for the avs2 800 cfm. Running the 1407 til I'm ready to change. I'm sold 6 AL here I come!
@@Stainlessslayer You wont regret it. i was holding out for the AVS2 800 as well and end up going AVS2600, which is suitable for my mostly cruise driving. if you havent heard about the Thompson powerblaster, you should definitely look into this simple but effective carb mod. I had it on my 1406 (which helped alot) and then decided later transfer it to my AVS2 and surprisingly it made a great difference on an already incredible carb. thompsonperformance.com/products/pbp-ec-78-for-edelbrock%C2%AE-carburetors-750-800-cfm
So the tach wire gets connected to the msd box?
David L yes, the grey MSD wire connected to the green signal wire coming from my tach. (It could be a different color signal wire per tach manufacture) no problems.. works great!
@@GatorOverland I have a hei distributor on a fuel injection v8...it should be easy like you said for it to function with the cluster gauges
David L yessir! Shouldn’t be a problem as long as your utilizing the signal wire to the gauge that was originally connected to “tach” terminal on the distributor cap or any other location of spark signal.
@@GatorOverland your badass thanks for replying
Pretty sure your original problem was bad distributor ground. Too much resistance going through a painted aluminum intake. I had the same problem and solved it with a ground strap running off the dizzy housing/vacuum can screw.
Thanks for the reply… I considered the same troubleshooting issue for dizzy ground as well. The intake was actually the stock cast steel (50’ish lbs) and had good ground continuity. The issue was actually a bad ignition pick up coil down in the distributor… I ended up pulling the distributor after MSD install and swapped it out at the parts store… it was immediately a difference, and probably could’ve avoided the costly MSD upgrade..15,000 miles and 16-18mpg later, it’s still running good. Very happy with the performance of the MSD.
@@GatorOverland thats awesome! I am impressed with that gas mileage. That's why im thinking about getting the msd box for my 350
You won’t regret it… It is a costly upgrade, but the efficiency is incredible… The response is instantly noticeable as well… One major advantage was the lack of raw fuel fumes in the exhaust…
@@GatorOverland the dizzy with the bad pickup coil, was it an msd streetfire?
Cody Hopkins no, and accel tan cap
I know this is old but it looks like all you needed to do was change the coil. HEI is and always has been very dependable. If your motor wont start when its hot the place you go to is the coil. That's some 101 stuff. You spent a lot $$$$ and work for nothing.
Agreed the upgrade was expensive and probably unnecessary, but the increased fuel economy was noticeable. I found the issue of the hot start being a bad pickup coil in the HEI distributor. A quick trip to the store for a swap and it had never ran so good after install.. win lose in a way, but overall happy with the results
Boy can someone be really that slow??.... I've installed plenty of ignition boxes. Hell he even had the longer bolts o hand...wow
Thanks for the reply. I apologize for the extended timing of my install. All of it was with one hand and figured being thorough would help out some that aren’t as experienced as others like yourself. The kit works great! Outstanding results!