You do not need a big brake kit.
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- SHIRT IN THE VIDEO: h-genuine.com
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Today Netgear shares automotive expertise in this video that might be renamed later. Big brakes. Big brake kits. Do you need them? No, but here's why they don't matter. Some info about that W in your oil, and how to adjust your mirrors so people don't think you're dumb. A very informative automotive youtube video that will leave you breathless, bricked up, and full of knowledge, just like Net in his garage.
im a mechanic why did no one tell me that brake fluid is homophobic
Yeah don't change it during pride month
It makes for a great lubricant
Bro actually said it🤣🤣🤣 10:58
Didn't you wonder why it won't touch you 😉🤪🤣
Hahahaha I can't believe you guys left that in, that was hilarious 😂😂😂
Instead of "Big Brake kit," what if it was "Big BONER Kit"
Got that BBK baby
69th like. nice
That would be really funny is if it was called that 🤣🤣
This guy gets it
this video felt like my mechanic dad telling me why ricing my car is dumb
HE'S RIGHT
Big brake kit: 🙅🏻♂️
Big balls kit: 🤔
What if instead of big brake kit it was a big boner kit?
big BONER kit 🧐
Netgear posted, incredible day for discord moderators
They're moving up in society 😊
Too late bro, the brembo calipers are prepped and getting painted in a few hours 😂 thanks for the content tho brotha
LOL at your unique pronunciation of "Hydrophilic".
Hygroscopic
Ermm.... ackchually it's HYGROSCOPIC 🤓☝️
Hydeyourgirlfromnetgear
Collector Car Feed, UNZIPPED
Why do you zip your pants up every time you finish watching a CCF video?
@@zonk834 does that video have a p*ssy...?
Giggity
"If your brakes can lock up the wheels, your brakes are big enough" is what I've always heard, and that will live in my brain forever
Yes! However how many times it can do that in a row with high temps is another topic.
@Masterballsackwood Exactly.
"Bigger brakes don't make it stop faster!"
They _do_ if the smaller ones would be heat-soaked at that point...
And every vehicle produced nowadays has the ability to lock their wheels from stock, and abs is the only thing that prevents it from doing so. Driving 4 answers om youtube has a great video on this same topic that goes more in depth
As a low-key physics nerd, hearing you talk about how everything relies on the tires' coefficient of friction is a breath of fresh air.
The same applies to the opposite as well. If you want your car to be super fast off the line, and make use of as much surface area as possible on the initial acceleration, you gotta start with the tires. Otherwise you'll just do a burnout with all the torque and horsepower.
FUCKING THANK YOU. I'VE BEEN BRINGING UP DRAG CAR TIRES AS A WAY TO EXPLAIN BRAKE PHYSICS FOR AGES AND THE BOOMERS WONT LISTEN TO ME
@eightfivezerobraxton5509 Fake news bro. Tires don't behave like static surfaces, so your high school physics formula doesn't apply. Rubber is pliable and as a result interacts with the road surface in a unique way. A bigger contact patch does equal more grip. Otherwise everyone would be running skinny ass tire to minimize rolling resistance lol. Never comment again.
@@eightfivezerobraxton5509 Wider tires (beyond stock size) equates to a fairly equal contact patch because the car weighs practically the same either way. The only time a wider tire will noticeably benefit the car is upon braking and turning.
@@radisnooker5well, not on ice it doesn't.
@@radisnooker5 "Otherwise everyone would be running skinny ass tire to minimize rolling resistance lol. Never comment again."
Um sooo The Toyota Prius needs to have a word with you....
Bigger brakes are 90% for absorbing more heat. If you have really sticky tires then MAYBE you will stop quicker as well.
Edit: glad he explained it properly. Love ya net
That's what a stronger caliper and booster is for. Of course most of the time that leads to bigger discs because you tend to need a bigger disc to fit the bigger pad on the bigger caliper.
I got away with running M030 calipers and regular 951 disks on my 944 S2 for autocross with DTC80 pads and paragon cooling ducts for autocross because of the short run periods. Out performed a few other M030 951 guys in braking and rotation response while on the same tires.
Edit: I am agreeing with the having really sticky tires comment, just pointing out that the increase you get in initial braking force is from the pad/caliper and not from the disc,
Netgear is transitioning into something at :46
Thought my yt crapped lmao
I saw that shit too.
I use a drag chute and boat anchor to reduce my stopping distance
Nice...I cut out my floorboards and use my feet Flintstone style
Netgear is the best dad i never had
@@AutumnChaser this is funny cus these are all the points of argument my Dad made when I was about to buy my brembo calipers lol
@@digitalversatilediscjockey3465 lmao
When he said, “you’re gonna kill yourself”, i felt that.
I like drifting
That’s exactly what my mom said when I got my motorcycle, and when I showed her my drift car with some videos of me drifting.
@@apollo7557It's always fun making your parents worry about you isn't it? Good times!
I needed a big brake kit when it was $200 cheaper than replacing my OEM brakes 1:1 and got me better brakes.
Bro is always out here with the best casios
"Wait for someone to pass..."
Pure comedy.
I can only see my huge ass wing out my rearview mirror
The downforce will make up for the lack of visibility I’m sure
How this channel is not at 500k yet is beyond me.
Never realized Brake Fluid was so based
Brake fluid - 2024
Bro said homophobic instead of hygroscopic 💀
He's just so used to it. 😂
If you want good “pedal feel,” get the lightest wheels you can afford, steel braided brake hoses, and do the brake pad bed-in the way the manufacturer says to. And bleed the brakes with fresh fluid.
Or new oem flex hose as well old one gets buildup and mushy sidewalls.
@@frizzlefry1921I'm with you on that. I never bought into the hype of "steel braided brake hoses". I only have that for my turbo oil feed line.
I've only had 2 brake lines fail on me. One was due to rust and being in the rust belt. The other was due to a 25yr old car with 250k mi on it and lots of brake fluid neglect.
Maybe if I tracked my car a lot, I could see the benefit. But even an annual track day... Meh.
But how will I flex on people if I don't have 47 piston calipers and 20" drilled rotors????
Drilled _and _*_slotted_* rotors
@@Penn_SenselessI swear drilled and slotted without abs gives you a better deer stopping distance. Seems like it either has a rotor cleaning effect on a daily driver or a more friction surface for the pads than regular. Even when I don't lock up it really seems to be a shorter stop distance. Tried them on a abs car to a limited degree and it stopped really well, they we're used so I actually had the rotor rip in half shortly after installing them but they really did grab better. Possibly more prone to breakage at some point so if they do break then maybe in that instance the stock ones could save you, fortunately I was just commuting casually when it ripped and still was able to stop with the other 3 brakes.
Minimum at best you can swap out your front brake caliper for something a bit bigger with an aluminum knuckle adapter. I took my 1990 miata brakes and changed the front calipers out for V6 SN95 Calipers with 2016 ND rotors. If was 2/3rds the price of a full brembo kit or a set of dynalites. But this is really all I need maximum for doubling my horsepower. Don’t need much more or a more demanding kit.. most of your braking is done by the front brakes anyways. That being said I’m running a normal set of ceramic brake pads and I have upgraded tires.
Also the topic of the mirror setup! I loved that point. I’ve been driving with my mirrors towards my blind spot for a long time now. I basically have a 360 degree field of view on the car when I drive. I think others should apply this technique as well.
Please do more car tech tips. Techniques or applicable driving skills I enjoyed this video
Mirror adjustment is a free mod 🤔
I have an NB Miata tuned to 266whp. Took it to the track on ceramics (newb mistake). Had massive brake fade after the 3rd lap. Most of the forums I've seen talk about the stock rotors being really good and how you only really need track pads for this car.
I was going to use a set of hawk track pads on my next track visit. (Whenever that might be) From what I underatand, those, mixed with a brake fluid flush, prior to track day, should be all the stopping power this car needs.
Sounds like you got yourself a nice setup though. I hope you don't find a braking inbalance as a result. You may or may not end up needing to install a proportioning valve if you just upgrade the front. There's always a staggered tire/wheel setup, or a stiff rear sway bar to keep the rear from sliding on you. Brake hard on the straights, that's for sure.
In any case, these cars are a great driving experience in my book. 10/10
Cheers mate.
@@christopherlowery855 yeah I probably will most likely install a proportioning valve and I’m also upgrading my slave cylinder. I definitely won’t be running ceramics on the track. Just needed something for the car to begin with as it’s still in project mode. I will be driving it on the street of course once it’s back and running.
Fuck, I love when my virtual car friend posts a video.
It's true. All my big brake kits are just for looks, and the dream that maybe one day I actually go to the track.
The largest component of what Big Brake Kits do is to reduce brake fade, which is only useful on a track or driving in a mountainous area where there are a lot of long down hill stretches
Bingo - and if you have a 370z = TONS OF brake/heat issues - so you then start looking at pads/fluid/2-piece rotors and ducts to get more air onto the rotors... OR: just don't be on the brakes as much - and use more compression braking...
Wrong. They allow you a greater ability to threshold brake. They unlock more modulation between heavy braking and lockup thus reducing stopping distances.
@@eag8999 "Wrong" 🤓☝
@@davidtate3125 insert trump wrong meme. Take it in because you are wrong
@@13bMSP_FC Big brake kits increase clamping force as well due to a larger rotor allowing the brake pads to bite the rotor at a further distance from the center of rotation. It's greater leverage.
I actually learned something today. Thank you for the lesson on mirrors, I made the adjustment on my truck and its pretty awesome.
But if my brakes aren’t big and my calipers aren’t red, how will people know I’m cool?
red is a must
@@Malibuthe6th i prefer pink and blue patterns. I want my car to look like blue and pink cotton candy😂 jk
They won't, this guy is just jealous of us cool guys with big red brakes
As a professional tech gotta say, some good information I wish way more people were aware of and some things like proper mirror adjustment should be tested at the DMV, its a safety factor. How many wrecks could have been avoided with properly adjusted mirrors?
My only additional note would be on the coefficient of friction stampings on brake pads, and that people need to be aware of them.
In the US all brake pads (with the exception of some race pads) have the coefficient of friction stamped on each pad as a two digit code i.e. FF, GG, CF, etc. The first letter designates cold operation(200-400F) coefficients while the second denotes the high temp(300-600F) operation coefficient.
Now, in terms of what Net is saying, he is 100% correct, the coefficient of your tires is what ultimately matters, however, be aware that some aftermarket brake pads (think cheap auto zone parts) can have coefficients of friction that are lower than the threshold of your tires.
Admittedly, most pads will be stamped FF and this should be considered the minimum for what is acceptable for street use, (think honda, chevy, ford, etc) while luxury or sport brands such as mercedes, bmw, aston martin, etc will typically use pads stamped with GG.
It is worth bearing in mind though that these vehicles (luxury and sport) usually come equipped with wider tires with a higher coefficient of friction than say a honda civic or a chevy spark, so they are better able to take advantage of this change in coefficients.
All that being said, again, FF is usually fine, but if you're vehicle came equipped with GG pads make sure to go back with GG when you replace them.
(This is also what Net was referring to with racing pads which often have a rating of DH, with low coefficients when cold and very high coefficients when hot)
10:57 i guess the CCF fanbase is afraid of water now
People looking at big brake kits when not needed is something i dont really mind, its always good to have people looking at safety systems even if its not needed.
That being said if you want to actually upgrade your brakes and improve stopping time, braided brake lines and a propper flush and bleed of the system is a night and day difference, costs less and having a good firm brake pedal is such a big confidence boost for emergency stops, plus its usually like a €100 upgrade for most cars if your confident to do the labour (if you have to ask how/look it up dont do it yourself you mess something up you kill someone/yourself), you'd be amazed at how much flex is in rubber brake lines especially on older cars
Yeah this is a good thing, your rants can indeed last episodes worth of content! I also hope we get to see you cruising in your baja doing a regular car reviews kind of thing.
Also something to note, we are in America, the land of excess, its not about having what you need, but having way more than you will ever need and then talking about it. So good luck talking someone out of them brembos.
Elgato coming in hard with them mosh edits melting your face! Well done yall
The fishing rod analogy is actually perfect. Keeping that in the back pocket for sure!
Well Net is definitely correct on the BBK's and whatnot. the reason you upgrade your brakes for track use is because you're looking for that consistent performance from the brakes from that intense usage on the track. for a street used vehicle, just, for the love of god, keep up on your maintenance.
Net, you can catch big stuff on 15# test, you just gotta be careful and use the drag on the reel
That's true. And to keep with the fishing analogy, it just means that the braking point just needs to be a lot further out. Just like how the fight with light line will take a lot longer.
This channel is way more useful than Donut.
Truth... So much truth.
They also don't tear off front bumpers, destroy engines, or shred transmissions.
Thanks CollectorCarFeed!
@@christopherlowery855 the tradeoff is far mroe snark.
You do need a turbo Baja though.
To expand on Netty's tire/brake relation talk, until you're running 200tw or lower tires any big brake kit is absolutely going to out-brake your traction and you'll wind up putting flat spots on your tires. This is true for momentum cars or big power cars. Put your money into seat time, it'll serve you better.
One thing i will disagree about with the mirror thing, i like to have a small portion of my car in the bottom corner of the mirror so that i have a reference of position of the cars the in the mirror. So its not just knowledge that there is a car there, but its there in x relation to my car. Also the coefficient of friction is a static variable in the calculation for the FORCE of friction. Your point about the tire being the limiting factor is correct, but the coefficient of friction is only one part of the force of friction formula.
that's a crutch. if you see a car, you know it's next to you. free your mind.
Net uploads, blessed days for the lads
This video convinced me not to buy BBK and just invest in quick jacks and other tools I’ve been slacking on picking up.
Look at what he's doing not what he's saying. There's a 4 piston caliper upgrade on his car. That he doEsn'T nEed!
@@idokwatcher2062chances are he uses his car on track if he knows this info
Yeah fr, I remember bladed angel and Driving 4 answers said it best too. Big brakes help with brake fade, but if you wanna stop it's all in the tyres. Why the best bang for buck mod is rubber.
wait wtf he doesnt look like his discord profile pic
I see nets upgraded from bottles to oil jugs
How dare you make fun of his big jugs
I will die on this hill, but no, the mirrors are not ideally set up that way. Thats how we used to do it in the 90s.
The best way, for situational awareness, is set driver side mirror to see as far back in the lane to the left of you.
The right mirror (if you have one, some cars do not, like one of mine), set it similar to the left mirror, but much lower, to try to see as much of the rear wheel as you can, but still see traffic as far back in the right lane. (This one is not as crucial, since youre not supposed to hang out in the left lane often, plus, its the least visible mirror).
Center mirror should see the rear window, as well as the rear right opera window (depending on the car though. Crown Vics have a huge sail panel), but the interior mirror should be set up to cover the right blind spot.
For your blind spots....you're supposed to move your torso. Move forward a bit, and you will see your blind spots. Also, dont be afaid to keep your head on a swivel, and look directly for cars on the sides.
So, bit thing is to ALWAYS have a mental map of cars. If you see a car barreling up on you in the left lane, but then, nothing passing you, that means, that car is STILL THERE. Speed up or slow down. Never drive parallel with vehicles. The big pro to this setup of mirrors is seeing cars further behind you (your left mirror has the best view). You will see cop cars way back behind you.
This is how I set up my mirrors on big trucks and buses (especially for the right wheel, to take those turns REALLY tight and never pop a curb), but also when I was a cop and patrolling. I want to see distance over location, since I will keep track of cars mentally in light to moderate traffic flow. In bumper to bumper, you will have to look with your eyes, not mirror, or shift body position.
Its not a common setup, but its how we were trained, because it works. Ever wonder how a cop will notice shenanigans, when hes 10 cars up ahead? True. Youre not on the prowl for traffic violations, but the concept is solid, as long as youre patying attention. Also, the rear view mirror can be blocked, shaky, non existent, so dont rely on it. You may one day drive something without a back window. Be consistent in mirror setup, and no vehicle will be a challenge.
I wrote a novel, bite me lol. But Im passionate about mirror setup, ok? Deal with the tism baby
Appreciate the 'tism fren
The brakes is for the most part true. Some details not quite correct (friction coeficient is just one element, the normal force is a big one, ie, how hard you or rather the master cylinder pushes fluid against the pads, up to lock, but details that most people outside of physics or math guys (me being the latter) will care for.
Tires, yes. The thicker the tire, the better traction and braking you get. Even when locking the wheels, the thicker tire will get A LOT better braking, even if it may seem counter intuitive, since the equation does not mention surface area on contact patch for braking...but thats a textbook, ideal system. In practice, the tire will grip into crevasses, abosrt heat better etc. Its beyond my pay grade tbh (not a mechanical engineer, but I think Engineering Explained does a good job)
Anyway. Cool video. Enough to spark interest in those that wanna learn. And there are many ways to accomplish the mission.
@@CollectorCarFeed Dont encourage me LOL
We're on a spectrum
yall are getting it down, love to see it. In a video like this, I'd recommend some more diagrams/video clips of what's being explained to keep viewers engaged. For example: When netgear is explaining the number one enemy of your brakes being heat, BOOM clip from initial D where R32 brakes and the calipers glow red, something like that.
Your rotor size and the size of your NRG quick release steering wheel should be the same size.
shitting on company time, thanks for another bangers.
BIG BRAKE KIT: 👎
BIG WANG KIT: 👍
It's a boring answer for most people, but tires are the number #1 thing to upgrade if you want more performance. It goes faster, corners better, brakes better etc.
Perfect timing as I'm shopping for a full kit on my mustang as it's time for new rotors
The moment you brought up situational awareness and not neglecting driver skill. Instant like 👍🏼
Great video, I always tell people to save money for tire change, tire adhesion and traction is the most overlooked thing in brake system.
Dude your channel is the best on the internet for car content. Im hyping you up a bit but this is real content and you deserve exposure. 💙
I knew sti brembos were a waste, good thing I settled for wrx 4 pot for the FXT, thanks Net!
I mean, the look cool as hell lol
D4A did great video explaining how brakes and tyres work in modern cars.
“Brake fluid is homophobic” had to rewind I was laughing so hard
STOP TALKING ME OUT OF THINGS!
Also, thanks for making the CD available. I have to buy a CD drive now.
Side mirrors are like tuning a musical instrument, you 'tune' just past perfect then bring it back into 'tune' imho. Yeah, much better to have good tyres & a lighter car than spend big $$$ on brakes. My 720kg Alto Turbo RS has quite small Suzuki discs, but stops like the 'hand of God' on her Yokohamas.
I’ll just stick with my brembo caliper covers like Vukos 👌
The pedal feel on my S13 with Z32 brakes is pretty awesome. Good video.
At 3:40 I thought I was the only smart one, thank god some1 confirmed this
I’ve been going crazy for years “ADJUST YOUR SIDE MIRRORS TO WHERE YOU CANNOT SEE YOUR OWN CAR”
Youre pretty spot on about the "BBK" argument, but to my hotbois heres how to get your car stopping "On a Dime"
- Get yourself some braided lines, Brake line flex is a real thing, so a more consistent brake pressure = better braking performance
- upgrading brake fluid does help, just dont get any "race fluid" for a street car for the love of god. If you have a dot3 car, most of the time dot4 will work if flushed correctly
- a better brake booster and brake master cylinder allows more fluid to move to your brakes, which allows your brakes to become stiff as a rock, but brake significantly harder
- Brake proportioning valves are super nice especially if you want to be a big brake guy, getting those proportions just right can make you either stop on a dime or rotate your car out on a hard stop
- Lighter wheels have lower unsprung weight, meaning the wheel has less rotational mass to stop, which helps alot too
- upgrading your abs system is suuuppper slept on. BMW makes an amazing abs system that a lot of cars have swap kits for, and I highly recommend it for super hard stops
other than that just get better with your right or left foot nerds
Just go with DOT 5.1 instead
Carbon ceramic brakes on the Baja
Front brakes do 90% of the work, the rears are more for keeping the car stable while braking.
Rear drum brakes did nothing wrong.
While yes, I would much rather repalce rear brake pads than shoes. I'll do both, that's just my preference.
This video was helpful, it taught me that I should upgrade to big brakes on my car not for stopping distance but because I regularly drive hard enough to overheat them on the street and I’m not going to stop doing that.
Other thing people don't talk much about big brakes upgrades is the amount of oil your master cylinder can move. I shopped a bit for big brakes for my Volvo C30. There are a few options out there but you can count them on one hand. Some are just fronts, I think one has a full brakes kit. When you upgrade small single piston calipers to larger 2, 4, 6 pistons calipers, you usually have move oil displacement needed. Likely less peak pressure for the system but still have to move more oil. Generally manufacturers don't go with the bare minimum volume displacement when they choose a master cylinder and they sure aren't setting you up with the largest displacement either. So in some cases you will have to find a new master cylinder to replace the old one just in order to be able to brake efficiently. Another issue with full big brakes kit is that your new brakes that need more oil to actuate may now not have the same displacement proportion as the OEM brakes did. That may affect the braking proportions. Say the front brakes need much more volume to actuate while the rear are just a bit bigger than OE. Then you'd be getting into braking behavior changes on the car. So now you need a brake proportion valve to adjust back all that so the tears don't lock up before the front starts making a difference.
For me, these things I just listed, and also the price for consumable parts on many big brakes kit made me choose a much different pathway to big brakes.
I decided to do an OE upgrade to the bigger brakes offered as options on other cars that run the same platform.
Being a Volvo C30, it was offered in euro and maybe Mexican market 320mm but that option wasn't offered in NA. Other cars on the same platform which had the 320s were C70, Mazda 3, euro focus RS, and the Ford Transit. I salvaged a front set off a transit at my local scrapyard, cleaned, painted and rebuilt them and now I have a decent looking pair of big OEM brakes on my car that cost peas to maintain.
netgear funny as hell and such a troll . but bro knows stuff too
- Race pads add more contact to the rotor and allow for better brake feel as well as longer brake consistency (rotors get better/fuller contact)
- bigger rotors do a similar thing, slotted rotors allow for more braking at higher speeds than OEM. Never just buy slotted stock rotors, usually they are cosmetic pieces.
- here's the big one: more power = more tire width = more *necessary* brake maintenance. This can mean all of the above becomes useful. However, most of the time its for brake longevity that these mods are done.
Was that Re-animator at 1:52 haha
Ah, I see you enjoy kino as well.
i HAVE BEEN TELLING PEOPLE FOR YEARS HOW TO ADJUST THE MIRRORS
THIS IS THE WEY BASED MAN
LMAO at the Deathgrips - Guillotine reference when the camera would glitch out 😂😂😂
I got drilled and slotted front rotors because the stock ones were warping in the hot environments I drive in. They look nice, too
Thank you for this! My buddy’s always argue with me about the big brake kit thing. I always explain to them everything you just did and they just ignore me and say I don’t know what I’m talking about. I should send them all this video
If you have a street car that you like to send on back roads. I would highly recommend ceramic brake pads. They won't make much noise when they are cold and their resistance to brake fade is fairly impressive. You get the best of both worlds like Hannah Montana
3:30 I’ve always said “if something is that close to your car, it’s already too late”
Besides the heat, you want to match the coeffecient of friction of the tire size. Wider tires with bigger wheels. Go ahead, just a size up only. Went from 17’s -18’s on the C30. Wilwood brake kit is good for both street and track use, it’s the middle man. Stock R-design 320mm rotors. Race brake fluid and hawk yellow pads, that’s fine. That’s just for the fact road track puts a lot of heat and strain, but once again, it operates well on street day to day use.
The last thing is, and this is a C30 problem. The pedal is spongy, and no way in hell is any brake upgrade going to fix that. However. The V40 MK2 t5 brake master cylinder is larger, but retrofits onto the booster for the c30. Which gives it less pedal depression and immediate bite. That is from actual C30 racing teams.
Now for rear brakes? Ford focus 2016 RS 302 mm rotors for looks (but it’s needed for awd conversions) Mazda 5 carriers, volvo calipers stock. Simple as. All bolt on parts bin and works splendidly.
At day’s end. Driving4answers said it before net gear with far more detail. We don’t need it. But it does make the car look more “professional” and “track ready”.
As cliche as it is, first big performance mod or just any first mod? Performance tires. That’s how you should start. Covers, acceleration, braking, handling. Summers and winters. Take your pick. Advan’s, firehawk indy 500’s. Lower range of pilot cup. Maybe some continental’s. Your choice.
As a z31 owner the main drive for a brake "upgrade" is parts availability, its just easier to source newer brakes for a similar price as picked or reman oem stuff.
That actually makes a really good point.
Interesting about the mirrors. I always have mine tucked in a little more, until I can just barely see the side of my car on the inner corners. It helps me position myself in the lane while I'm looking over at the mirror. You wouldn't think looking over for maybe a second at most while not looking ahead would be enough time to wander in the lane, but at least for me it is. It's not horrible, but it's still a skill issue.
Skill issue.
Had a 60’s muscle car with an LS swap, but factory drums on all corners. I could accelerate very well, but sudden stopping/slowing would lock up and the car would rotate. I got cut off on the 405 doing 70mph and hit the brakes hard, the car went sideways. I got off the brakes, straightened up, steered around the car in front of me, then hit the brakes with less force. Disc brakes would have helped a lot. Big disc brakes would help modulate the brakes to avoid lockup.
But I agree, once you have disc brakes, the biggest upgrade you can do is sticky tires. The big brake kits are good for dissipating heat for track use, or maybe if you do a lot of towing/hauling and you are trying to stop more than the weight of your vehicle.
Boring old guy story incoming. I had an '87 MR2 I owned for 15 years. I street drove it and competed in club level motorkhana (cone dodging) The factory brakes were ass, and would fade after a few higher speed stops. I upgraded the fluid from dot 3 to 4 (full flush too) and replaced the brake lines from the cracked rubber ones (30 years old) to braided (better pedal feel, more consistant stops) I also rebuilt the calipers and replaced the rotors with slotted to clean the pads better. I put slightly better pads in, and eventually an adjustable bias valve (this era MR2 is reknowned for locking the fronts). With better tyres, this setup was amazing, conistant, and cheap to maintain. You really don't need a big brake kit, UNLESS you are doing repeated high speed stops on a racetrack. I currently own a car with factory brembo's. They are incredible, but expensive to maintain, and complete overkill for a mostly road car.
netgear netgear how ya doing im do half crazy
Reducing center of gravity and increasing traction from your tires are the only things that will help stopping distance short of adding a parachute. Big brakes are for show and reducing brake fade by giving more surface area for heat storage.
Air brakes also work.
I've only seen McClarens with those though.
As someone who races and does quite a few spirited drives. I can tell you that pedal feel isn’t shit unless you’re trying to threshold brake. And you shouldn’t be doing that on the street anyways. If you want better pedal feel make sure your shit is bled, your master cylinder has good seals, and if it’s still bugging you. Get yourself a brake master cylinder brace!
As someone who has done some very go fast things, some people definitely need bigger brakes. Larger is primarily for higher speed stops, but multi piston is essential for pad life. I have tapered the absolute hell out of several pad sets on Miata brakes. Would the pads snap your neck at 130mph on a good tire? Yes. But repeated high stress use would always wear the top side of the pad significantly faster due to being single piston and not being able to distribute the load evenly
It’s not so much about the stopping power but the heat. Regular rotors will warp under high heat situations. Regular pads will fade with high heat. DOT 3 dry boiling point is 401f, DOT 4 boils at 446, DOT 5 500.
Totally agree on not needing a BBK unless you're on the track.. titanium shims are also worth every penny.
It goes it goes it goes it goes it goes it goes it goes it goes BONERRRRRRR
YUH
You are correct that tires are the limiting factor. What you're ignoring is the fact that tires get better all the time and most cars come off the lot with sub-par tires anyway. So the manufacturer matches the brakes and tunes the ABS to match the factory-spec tires, and your car is 15 years old, guess what: you buy some modern, non-shite tires and now your brakes are the limiting factor.
Also, my big brake kit (Girodisc) were $1000 cheaper than the OEM brakes and the front rotors are 2lbs lighter. So you don't _need_ big brakes, but you'd be an idiot to spend more to get less.
As an aside, I matched these with Hawk ceramic pads. No dust, no squeal, no grabby stops at low speeds. Perfection.
I spent big money on a big brake kit only to learn what you are teaching here. I then spent almost as much on a load of cash buying wide wheels and tires that had great breaking performance. Why? Years ago, I rear ended someone on the freeway. It was 100% my fault. I never wanted to feel that awful again.
7:00 says the guy with the oem BBK:..
Other guy with oem BBK: yeah you guys don’t need it. 😎 (pssst it’s one in the continuously shrinking bag of legal mods.)
Netgear is doing gods work teaching people how to scan good with the side mirrors.
I travel a lot for work and rent lots of vehicles. It seems to me that most people are very concerned about the status of their door handles. Thanks for trying to educate people. It won't work, but thanks anyway.
they're not ready
You realize you're looking at the mirror config of someone else right?
That person could just be shorter than you.
Every time I get in my wife's car, the mirrors are all messed up. It's because she sits differently than I do. It doesn't mean she doesn't know how to set mirrors.
Your customers who come back with body damage, they probably don't have their mirrors set right.
I put some Hawk HPS pads up front because of fade (I live near mountains and anything spirited gets the brakes hot) and it’s been a great investment. Got like 20k miles on the things so far and they’ve still got beef on em.
They did get brake dust all over my rims though…
Big brake kits can have one other advantage you didn't mention here; they reduce unsprung weight. I swapped the sliding calipers on my E46 for discs and solid calipers from an F30 and even with the larger diameter disks the alu solid calipers vs cast iron sliding ones meant it lost a couple kg per corner, made it ride slightly nicer.
Thanks to Netgear, i know i've adjusted my side mirrors correctly for the past 12 years 😎
The biggest difference I ever got was running a track pad. Even used a a solid rotor and tracked my car on NT-05s. I made up a ton of time on people just braking so much harder and later.
Side tangent, you want your front tyres to have more tread than your rears, because unless you're driving a forklift most of your steering input is going to be in the front.
We call it tracking. As in preventing the rear from slipping. When you stager the rear to favor traction over the front, you might have understeer, but you won't have oversteer. The latter is far more deadly, as it causes you to spin instead of skid. I have a stagered setup on my miata and when I tracked it, the car handled like a dream. I was really able to push the corners without fear the rear was going to slip. An upgraded front sway bar really helps with body roll as well. If you want to be a drift master, by all means, favor the traction in the front.
Cheers.