This is not disaster at all... this is a perfect example how to do it right. I don't learn from everything going right, I learn a ton from everything going wrong. You are a hero for not cutting the video to make things smooth. :) Thanks.
This actually ranks as one of your best LED bulb vids (in my humble opinion) purely and simply because it didn't all go to plan, after all, there is finite amount of stuff you can say about these bulbs and their power supply's. Beautifully recovered and explained once you regained your composure. Quite delightful, old chap!
See, Julian, THIS is the appropriate bulby bit for the lighty bits (technical terms) being this short and close to the fitting. Yours is just taking the mickey.
Which is good, Clive actually knows what he's doing, you miss and don't seem to know a lot of fundamental and common sense stuff that you really should.
@Mai Mariarti All you have to do is watch his videos, like the one on hall effect sensor modules and his attempt to use one with an Arduino. I don't have to bet, I just know. And if you made a judgement based on my picture then you fell right into my trap. I chose that picture specifically to weed out idiots that use it for Ad hominem. Well done. :
After also watching Julian's video, I thought I would take one apart. Just like you I did exactly the same thing. Also took me 20 mins or so to work out what was going on. You could imagine the pain I was going through, screaming at you all the way from New Zealand with the problem, the 20 minuets seamed more like hours!! So pleased it also took YOU the same time to work it out!! It first I thought they were the series type that needed 70+ volts per strip to light and used a boost converter. After I got to 100 volts I thought I better take another look!!
I ditched all of my cheapie M830Bs after they wasted hours and caused days worth of grief. Out of four meters (which looked similar outside but had very different internal PCBs) three had dry solder joints in the probe sockets that weren't immediately noticeable. Readings fluctuated wildly depending on the temperature, current, and if the leads were nudged slightly. Resoldering helped but cheap plating on the sockets meant readings changed if you rotated the leads. Two had issues where tapping the range wheel altered readings as you found at 6:10. One day I was nearly tearing my hair out diagnosing a circuit where the same wire measured as 12V in the engine bay but only 2V inside my car. The LCD wasn't tight against the circuit board, and the rise in temperature inside the hot car made the 1 disappear. It was reading 12V all along. Tightening the screws holding the LCD in place helped but soon stripped threads so the problem returned and ruined another day. One of them changed readings if you squeezed the case. Never did figure that one out, but probably a combination of everything above. The fourth one seemed the best of the lot but the range pointer was ambiguous. It had a very defined arrow which at first glance appeared to point to the selected range. But it also had a small dimple (like your meter) at the other end which was the REAL indicator, not easily visible in dim light. Forgot about the weird knob one day, tried measuring battery voltage in current mode and BANG... blew the arse out of it and burnt my hand. I made the decision to scrap them all, saving myself a lot of grief. Time and sanity scarce these days and I'd rather waste neither! I've since bought four small Aneng multimeters to inhabit my scattered toolboxes, which seem far better in every way than the M830Bs. They even have buzzers, backlights and temperature probes.
Before I forget, I should mention that most of my store-bought alligator clip jumper leads were poorly crimped. Some weren't cheap either, it didn't just affect the bargain basement leads. Most had wires that were too thin to reliably crimp in the alligator clips, so to "solve" this issue the manufacturers simply folded the wire back over the insulation and crimped the insulation in with the wire. I discovered this when some wires fell out of the clips while measuring higher currents than usual. The high current, high resistance connection softened the insulation causing the wire to slide out of the clip. After that incident, spent a few hours repairing or replacing dodgy crimps and wires on every lead I could find.
Microwave Dave - for this very reason, I only use test leads with either 4mm plugs and then fit a croc clip that has a 4mm integrated socket, or I make my own leads up and solder croc clips on myself. And yes, one of the problems with cheap multimeters is the unreliability of the contacts in the range selector. This is nothing new, it also affected the cheap moving coil designs available in the past as well. And almost certainly still affects any current cheap moving coil designs. The lack of quality on the 4mm sockets, or other smaller sized connectors is also annoying. For all these reasons, I restrict the usage of the cheap meters that I have to use on circuits operating at no more than 20V. If I get a result/reading that I don’t expect, I double check by using a much better multimeter in parallel 😉.
I'm a gear guy. Easily several tons of test gear. You teach me, inspire me and make me wonder if I should get an eBay account and lighten my load but increase my ability. Your a hell of a guy. Please keep your lean but brilliant style. There are more than one out here with gear-lock.
Did you see the one of Clive sniffing the scent concentrate cartridge from a fart smell generator he thought was empty? He does these things so we don’t have to.
@@robertcalkjr.8325 It took about 20+ years for a small smooth scar to disappear from my finger from one of my earlier solder-related learning experiences! 👍
Very interesting. Thanks Clive. It really didn't seem like anything screwed up, more like you were working things out and we get to watch. Watching you arrive at conclusions sometimes reinforces the way I think about stuff as well. Fun.
Even when things don't quite go to plan, there's always a great learning experience. This one was "when things don't work they are probably broken". (anyhow, I too was waiting for you to over crank the voltage and blow up one or the other LED upon reading "disaster", lol!)
He was looking over at the power supply to make sure the amp value he put in was correct, you can hear his voice changing as he turns his head away to check...
@@Fekillix For example bayonet sockets like BA15s (for car headlights and such), or halogen sockets like G4, G5.3, G6.35 - all of those are used for 12V lamps.
There's quite a few different voltage lamps from selv up to full mains on a standard e27... the 110v ones often cause hilarity as they look just like a standard 240v GS lamp but they don't like the extra juice... the 12v ones that look like a standard incandescent lamp could be quite amusing.
I'll save you the trouble... you get the brightness of a million leds for 10th of a second and then complete darkness, and a burning plastic smell... or so another youtube video doing exactly that indicated... a melted puddle of filaments was to be found at the bottom of the bottom of the bulb... although that was with only 110V! xD
Good one, Clive. I'm so glad to see this sort of thing happen to someone else besides me. That scale of manufacturing is mind-boggling. (to small minds like mine, at least)
to be fair, electricians confusing mr16 and GU10 has been entertaining for over a decade. (mostly in person tho ). I just want to say i appreciate you sharing this 'wtf is going on' type video. Makes the rest of us mere mortals feel better
With disaster in the title I was settled in for an exciting explosive packed episode! In that regard, it was a bit of a let down. The info was awesome as always, just not as exciting as the title may lead you to believe . Thanks for another great video!
It's always a pleasure to find out that something very simple, early on during an experiment has screwed things up downstream. It makes you fell like the real problem solving chimps we are. Great vid
Home Depot in the States is selling "EcoSmart Clear Filament Vintage Style LED Light Bulb" in clear and frosted glass but cram all the capacitors and resistors in the space of the Edison screw and between the screw and the capacitors is a layer of plastic. The result is that they get very very hot and die after only a few months/weeks of use. When the first start to die they flicker within the first ten minutes of being turned on for a couple weeks and then one day they don't turn on. I took a couple of failed ones apart and all of them reeked and the capacitors were bulging; one had electrolytic all over inside.
I ordered 6 of the clear (glass) globe filament-type 120V lamps for a dining-room fixture. 2 of the lot didn't survive shipping, with the LED bars rattling loose inside the glass. Not a big thing, as the remaining 4 filled the fixture and have been in service for almost 5 years now.
Love the honesty Clive! Makes for much better viewing & makes me feel better when it never goes to plan which is most of the time 😂 keep up the great work 👍🏼
Thanks so much for this video! We've ALL had those days where one little thing seems to be completely halting the whole project until we figure out that tiny detail (like bad solder joints). To all the people thinking "Well, that's why you should be more careful!", half of tinkering with things is going to involve somehow forcing your way into something, be it physically or digitally, so that's not really an option all the time. (Although I would have just taken a soldering iron to the ends of those strips and tried to resolder them at that point, maybe add a touch of flux first to re-bind them - or did you try that to no avail? I uh... I'm clumsy, so I end up doing patch-repairs like that at times. *cough*)
I do like the way you show your WTF moments. if i had this type of teacher when I was trying to get my head around this kind of stuff. I would have felt a lot more better about my abilities. Keep up the good work.
Rolling. Action! And here the light goes..Doh! Goes... Doh! Goes....Doh! Goes ON (swears under breath) Carried on like a true Pro. Thoroughly entertaining as always.
It's like Diagnosis Murder lol Good video Clive! Glad you figured that out.. cool how they have evolved the LED mouthing from wires to soldering direct to bus bars.
I tried to build a dc-dc converter very similar to this one the other week.. It went about as well as this video! Although mine was a Linear Technology 1613 SOT23-sized device and seemed to demand microscopic positioning of explicitly SMT support components. It did *not* like strip-board and a DIL-converter one little bit! I _was_ planning to try again with a much more spatially-forgiving design based around a micro controller to provide the pulse which I found on some German fellow's website, but... A couple of moderately expensive failures, one after the other in quick succession has really taken the electronics enthusiasm out of my sails. Maybe I'll try again post-Yule.
Clive, your statement brought a song by Del Amitri back to my mind, which i have been listening to a bunch of years ago. "And nothing ever happens, nothing happens at all; the needle returns to the start of the song, and we all sing along like before"
I recently bought one of those style meters and it was completely unusable. Have worn out many over the past 30 years in low power circuits but found a real red lemon from harbor a few weeks ago!
Why not start with measuring the original supply inside the lamp? ;-) Like this video though. Sometimes also someone else is stuck in a kind of loop when doing tiungs...
I love your videos I love your accent and I love your hand movements thats entertainment by the way there's the American version of your program who speaks highly of you I'm a novice learner thanks !
Alternate title for this video, "Everything you know is wrong" also perfect listening music when not enjoying Mad Scottish Electronics Engineers. Great stuff indeed Clive, my would love to have had a shop teacher like you because of two things, I'd know a lot more on electronics than me and my dad do combind, and we'll I live in Southern Illinois while we have a decent University, High Schools are as rubbish as those shake lamps you did a video on. One, I repeat one teacher in the whole of my school was such a attentive teacher that I never turned homework in due to a very long story, he passed me every year because he knew I was understanding his class well enough that home work was a formality and the tests were what counted. Practicality is more important than formality, paperwork for paperwork's sake is rubbish and has been since bureaucracy gained any traction so since the dawn of modern man. I think we can agree on that point after all the rants you've gone on about certain "Policy Implementation" on the electric guidelines in the UK, Scotland really does seem to produce " Practical, Peppery and proud" people glad I can confirm half my blood comes from the Highlands.
I've got a couple of those--same issue. I wonder if some Cool-Amp might help that, or maybe some dielectric grease on the contacts to keep oxidation at bay...
Full Wave Bridge Rectifier - could be operated from AC source such as an outdoor low voltage lighting system? Personally I'm glad you don't edit your videos (much), learning and amusement go together rather well on Big Clive's channel.
The chance of mistakenly screwing this low voltage device into a full domestic supply E27 adaptor seems quite high. I'd also like to know what the failure mode is under such circumstances. @bigclivedotcom. Would you like to try this, you know, for science?
Here in the states, the 12 volt bulbs are used for emergency lighting. The circuit is wired to a 12 volt battery, and automatically come on during a power outage. I always keep a spare bulb on hand, because they all have to work to pass the fire dept inspection. A LED bulb would pull less amps and provide light for a longer period of time
That electrolytic capacitor is most likely the input capacitor. I had a bunch of those drivers in the 1W version, which can drive more LED's in series. The magic smoke comes out though when driving 2 LED's in series while lowering the input voltage below 8 to10V. These drivers work best between 12 and 14 V.
I'm drinking coffee and made sure not to be ingesting while he turned up up the tension on the LEDs. The actual point of failure surprised me as I was expecting it to be the alligator clips as I have had bad experiences with those.
Using an E27 is brilliant. They should put standard AC power plugs on USB devises as well. Just trow it in the stores like that. People don't read so doesn't matter what it says on the thing anyway. It's a whole new form of natural selection.
That nonsense really got going with PCs. They used a serial connector for a parallel port, a joystick connector for a serial port, and an Ethernet connector for a joystick port and for an audio port. I was just waiting for them to use a sub-D connector for the main input too!
In the PA audio world some people started using XLR (usually line/mic) for speakers and later power as well (so they could interchange cables). If you know what you're doing and label everything correctly it might work, but I think so much stuff got blown up that it wasn't worth the savings on cables for most. When SpeakON came out it was often used for power as well because it has connector locking. Though if you didn't use bi-amping over a single cable you could use 1&2 for speakers and 3&4 for power (but no cable saving/flexibility that way). Eventually they created PowerCON, but lots of people still have SpeakON PowerCON pigtails or converters in the random box so they can use whatever cable they have at hand in a pinch. Connection standards have always been a mess.
It's worth noting that since this is a boost circuit, the output voltage can't go lower than the input voltage. So if you try to supply over the combined forward voltage of the LEDs, there's no current limiting!
@pmailkeey Sounds more like an excellent name for a gay strip club, from the pound notes tucked into the dancers' G-strings. Too bad the name is already taken.
Hey Clive, could take apart one of these super expensive Philips Hue bulbs to see what makes them different? I've had my Hues for years and they've been working without a hitch. Compared to my Osram Lightify bulbs that have almost all given up the ghost after a few months of use.
Love the SMA reference! It's always great when one of your youtube heroes watches another one of your other youtube heroes. The minute Clive brings out a can of brake cleaner and the sound plays, I'm officially done.
I was curious about the design of the circuit thanks. Mainly as these bulbs seem to be on the 3 dollar range. I guess this is due to the low manufactured volumes compared to the 1 dollar 220 bulbs. I am also hoping these 12v filament bulbs can survive longer than their 220v counterparts....
that was a sudden pry and many things can happen... it happens ... Or prying something and cutting wires with pry tool. The final result is good, trace the problem, and keep going
The bulb is shaped so because it's made to look like an Edison bulb. Traditional Edison bulbs have filaments in various shapes emitting a warm orange glow, but they're one of the most inefficient types out there. The bulb you're looking at appears to be an LED version of the Edison bulb, which should solve it's only drawback.
Well Clive me ol’ mate the error videos are massively interesting (to me at least) as seeing problem solving is very helpful and if not now then in the future for this novice! Bob England
Do they make these in B22 fitting? I have some ideas. (some googling did show that canal boats often use 12v b22 bulbs so maybe i should go to a chandlery)
LEDs are really evolving nowadays, I'm amazed how they are used for nearly all lighting now. I was looking at a shopping centres Xmas lights the other eveneng thinking christ! How many single Leds are there amongst all those lights.. And then multiply that by the thousands of shopping centres around the world, and people's homes, tvs, light fittings, etc.. It's billions and billions.. Does China exclusively make Leds? Its crazy big market stuff for such a small component.. Fascinating!
Having the filaments in series is also a goo way to ensure that they can sell more of them since only one failed filament is enough for the vendor to make a new sale. One thing that is also bugging me is that when you look at the packaging then it's listed as a lifetime of an LED lamp being like 40000 hours, but that's only the case if it's on for a limited time each day and even the "off" time is included in those 40000 hours. That's not the same as the MTBF value you get on other components.
Zachary Sandberg last video he was not his usual self and was suggesting that he may use the big boys power supply in a terminal fashion. Nothing seen since.
It occurs to me that the random LED spacing might be on purpose. With regular spacing, if the lens is faceted at all, you may end up with a repeating pattern of light on a wall. With random spacing the pattern from one bulb would be random (and likely blamed on the glass). More than one bulb and any pattern would barely be visible at all.
At least you were able to salvage the video with the discovery of how those LEDs are made up, pretty neat... :) And "XLSemi", totally doesn't sound like a well-endowed person who can't quite get it up.............. :P
Holy crap, I have that same "shitty meter". It was a gift from a family member so I can't just toss it. I keep it on my bench in case they come around while I'm piddling. It does a reasonable job of testing transistors, diodes and resistors. Works okay for a quick "is there power?" check.
Hey Mr. clive, I have a quick question. I have a friends Trainset with a small motor in it. it let the magic smoke out, so we're trying to replace it. the motor we have just oscillates it dies not make any RPM's at all. any idea what is going on there?
@@bigclivedotcom thanks! it does it even direct from the power supply too. I've never seen the little can motors vibrate back and forth like that. it's like the other side of the coil does not flip to the opposite polarity of the motor and allow it to turn... Weird.
Hi Clive, do you still use a phone to shoot your videos? If so which one as my new one the one you advised me about the 9v then 5v USB charging on it the other day, I'm absolutely blown away with the quality of video and this isn't even a top of the range a P20 lite.
That bulb is very deceptively called an LED (light emitting diode). There isn't anything diodec about it The emitting filament has no diode effect. The diode he mentioned in the circuit board he pulled from the base If you removed the plastic casing from around the internal filament will emit a very bright light...that would be a true light emitting diode. Those crazy readings from the FILAMENT is an incandescent effect ...not a diode at all! Bravo! The technician in this film has got it! What it is actually named is a "Light Emitting Wafer" with a filament core. Only about half as efficient as a true LED bulb.
This is not disaster at all... this is a perfect example how to do it right. I don't learn from everything going right, I learn a ton from everything going wrong. You are a hero for not cutting the video to make things smooth. :) Thanks.
This actually ranks as one of your best LED bulb vids (in my humble opinion) purely and simply because it didn't all go to plan, after all, there is finite amount of stuff you can say about these bulbs and their power supply's. Beautifully recovered and explained once you regained your composure. Quite delightful, old chap!
Cheers Clive - now I don't need to take mine apart :)
Or if you do, you know to do so with greater care.
See, Julian, THIS is the appropriate bulby bit for the lighty bits (technical terms) being this short and close to the fitting. Yours is just taking the mickey.
Which is good, Clive actually knows what he's doing, you miss and don't seem to know a lot of fundamental and common sense stuff that you really should.
@Mai Mariarti I wish I could give your comment 1000 thumbs up
@Mai Mariarti All you have to do is watch his videos, like the one on hall effect sensor modules and his attempt to use one with an Arduino. I don't have to bet, I just know. And if you made a judgement based on my picture then you fell right into my trap. I chose that picture specifically to weed out idiots that use it for Ad hominem. Well done. :
After also watching Julian's video, I thought I would take one apart. Just like you I did exactly the same thing. Also took me 20 mins or so to work out what was going on. You could imagine the pain I was going through, screaming at you all the way from New Zealand with the problem, the 20 minuets seamed more like hours!! So pleased it also took YOU the same time to work it out!!
It first I thought they were the series type that needed 70+ volts per strip to light and used a boost converter. After I got to 100 volts I thought I better take another look!!
I ditched all of my cheapie M830Bs after they wasted hours and caused days worth of grief.
Out of four meters (which looked similar outside but had very different internal PCBs) three had dry solder joints in the probe sockets that weren't immediately noticeable. Readings fluctuated wildly depending on the temperature, current, and if the leads were nudged slightly. Resoldering helped but cheap plating on the sockets meant readings changed if you rotated the leads.
Two had issues where tapping the range wheel altered readings as you found at 6:10.
One day I was nearly tearing my hair out diagnosing a circuit where the same wire measured as 12V in the engine bay but only 2V inside my car. The LCD wasn't tight against the circuit board, and the rise in temperature inside the hot car made the 1 disappear. It was reading 12V all along. Tightening the screws holding the LCD in place helped but soon stripped threads so the problem returned and ruined another day.
One of them changed readings if you squeezed the case. Never did figure that one out, but probably a combination of everything above.
The fourth one seemed the best of the lot but the range pointer was ambiguous. It had a very defined arrow which at first glance appeared to point to the selected range. But it also had a small dimple (like your meter) at the other end which was the REAL indicator, not easily visible in dim light. Forgot about the weird knob one day, tried measuring battery voltage in current mode and BANG... blew the arse out of it and burnt my hand.
I made the decision to scrap them all, saving myself a lot of grief. Time and sanity scarce these days and I'd rather waste neither! I've since bought four small Aneng multimeters to inhabit my scattered toolboxes, which seem far better in every way than the M830Bs. They even have buzzers, backlights and temperature probes.
Before I forget, I should mention that most of my store-bought alligator clip jumper leads were poorly crimped. Some weren't cheap either, it didn't just affect the bargain basement leads.
Most had wires that were too thin to reliably crimp in the alligator clips, so to "solve" this issue the manufacturers simply folded the wire back over the insulation and crimped the insulation in with the wire.
I discovered this when some wires fell out of the clips while measuring higher currents than usual. The high current, high resistance connection softened the insulation causing the wire to slide out of the clip.
After that incident, spent a few hours repairing or replacing dodgy crimps and wires on every lead I could find.
Are those Aneng multimeters hard-switched? Because boy is that auto-off "feature" of their 8000 series ever so annoying!!
I got a generic one from ebay and works fine.
Got it 2 years ago for justt over 3 and a 1/4 australian dollars delivered to australia
Yeah, a reliable meter is mandatory.
Microwave Dave - for this very reason, I only use test leads with either 4mm plugs and then fit a croc clip that has a 4mm integrated socket, or I make my own leads up and solder croc clips on myself.
And yes, one of the problems with cheap multimeters is the unreliability of the contacts in the range selector. This is nothing new, it also affected the cheap moving coil designs available in the past as well. And almost certainly still affects any current cheap moving coil designs.
The lack of quality on the 4mm sockets, or other smaller sized connectors is also annoying.
For all these reasons, I restrict the usage of the cheap meters that I have to use on circuits operating at no more than 20V. If I get a result/reading that I don’t expect, I double check by using a much better multimeter in parallel 😉.
I'm a gear guy. Easily several tons of test gear. You teach me, inspire me and make me wonder if I should get an eBay account and lighten my load but increase my ability. Your a hell of a guy. Please keep your lean but brilliant style. There are more than one out here with gear-lock.
Love when things go wrong, I'm tired of everything going smoothly on heavily curated edited RUclips videos.
Thomas Richter If you like things going wrong, check out Electroboom on youtube.
@@heronimousbrapson863 he does everything on purpose, is just annoying.
Did you see the one of Clive sniffing the scent concentrate cartridge from a fart smell generator he thought was empty? He does these things so we don’t have to.
I like it real also. If they burn themselves with a soldering iron, don't edit it out. Who among us has never burned themselves with a soldering iron?
@@robertcalkjr.8325 It took about 20+ years for a small smooth scar to disappear from my finger from one of my earlier solder-related learning experiences! 👍
Very interesting. Thanks Clive. It really didn't seem like anything screwed up, more like you were working things out and we get to watch. Watching you arrive at conclusions sometimes reinforces the way I think about stuff as well.
Fun.
Even when things don't quite go to plan, there's always a great learning experience. This one was "when things don't work they are probably broken". (anyhow, I too was waiting for you to over crank the voltage and blow up one or the other LED upon reading "disaster", lol!)
1:21 - Temporarily forgets how to use calculator
Happens to me all the time, I mainly use a 10-key pad on my phone and when I go to use a real calculator the numbers are arranged differently.
I touched my screen there but it didn't work. :)
LOL he forgot where the equals button was
He was looking over at the power supply to make sure the amp value he put in was correct, you can hear his voice changing as he turns his head away to check...
Brain fart 🧠
12V lamp with E27 thread? that has potential for many more disasters!
I suppose so, but what proprietary low voltage lamp sockets are there?
@@Fekillix For example bayonet sockets like BA15s (for car headlights and such), or halogen sockets like G4, G5.3, G6.35 - all of those are used for 12V lamps.
They should make the threads the other way around. :)
Rob Never seen that in North America. Maybe it's a UK thing?
There's quite a few different voltage lamps from selv up to full mains on a standard e27... the 110v ones often cause hilarity as they look just like a standard 240v GS lamp but they don't like the extra juice... the 12v ones that look like a standard incandescent lamp could be quite amusing.
"No No - I'm talking absolute crap" Such honesty is very refreshing.
At least you found the ladies problem!! Great vid Big Clive! I was really hoping you were going to screw it into a 110v socket 😏
Tch! Mere 110V? We blow things up properly with 240V here. (It's much louder.)
Love that my two absolute favorite RUclipsrs watch each other!
I'll save you the trouble... you get the brightness of a million leds for 10th of a second and then complete darkness, and a burning plastic smell... or so another youtube video doing exactly that indicated... a melted puddle of filaments was to be found at the bottom of the bottom of the bulb... although that was with only 110V! xD
Hang on, What's Eric O doing here? There's nothing mechanical here ;-)
@@rayg9069 pure mechanics busted it
Good one, Clive. I'm so glad to see this sort of thing happen to someone else besides me. That scale of manufacturing is mind-boggling. (to small minds like mine, at least)
to be fair, electricians confusing mr16 and GU10 has been entertaining for over a decade. (mostly in person tho ). I just want to say i appreciate you sharing this 'wtf is going on' type video. Makes the rest of us mere mortals feel better
With disaster in the title I was settled in for an exciting explosive packed episode! In that regard, it was a bit of a let down.
The info was awesome as always, just not as exciting as the title may lead you to believe .
Thanks for another great video!
Wayne Hogue If you want explosions, you have to watch electroboom.
@@heronimousbrapson863 stop promoting yourself..... Electroboom sucks big time...
Yip, was also waiting for some smoke ... even a tiny little bit (please)
It's always a pleasure to find out that something very simple, early on during an experiment has screwed things up downstream. It makes you fell like the real problem solving chimps we are. Great vid
South Main Auto? So, you're why his channel was recommended. Thanks Clive.
I do watch a lot of Eric's videos.
Don't even THINK about a product or webpage in a building with a phone, they stalk us all like in terminator genesys
Home Depot in the States is selling "EcoSmart Clear Filament Vintage Style LED Light Bulb" in clear and frosted glass but cram all the capacitors and resistors in the space of the Edison screw and between the screw and the capacitors is a layer of plastic. The result is that they get very very hot and die after only a few months/weeks of use. When the first start to die they flicker within the first ten minutes of being turned on for a couple weeks and then one day they don't turn on. I took a couple of failed ones apart and all of them reeked and the capacitors were bulging; one had electrolytic all over inside.
Yeah, that style of led is not intended to be installed pointing downward in an enclosure.
I ordered 6 of the clear (glass) globe filament-type 120V lamps for a dining-room fixture. 2 of the lot didn't survive shipping, with the LED bars rattling loose inside the glass. Not a big thing, as the remaining 4 filled the fixture and have been in service for almost 5 years now.
When Eric O says "there's your problem Lady" it's going to be a good video! He's the champ at tracing down electrical problems...
And yet he's far too modest to admit it.
Love the honesty Clive! Makes for much better viewing & makes me feel better when it never goes to plan which is most of the time 😂 keep up the great work 👍🏼
At 2:30 it is almost designed to come apart for maintenance with the cables at the perfect length for inspection! Thanks for the video Big Clive!
Thanks so much for this video! We've ALL had those days where one little thing seems to be completely halting the whole project until we figure out that tiny detail (like bad solder joints). To all the people thinking "Well, that's why you should be more careful!", half of tinkering with things is going to involve somehow forcing your way into something, be it physically or digitally, so that's not really an option all the time. (Although I would have just taken a soldering iron to the ends of those strips and tried to resolder them at that point, maybe add a touch of flux first to re-bind them - or did you try that to no avail? I uh... I'm clumsy, so I end up doing patch-repairs like that at times. *cough*)
"Theres your problem lady!" Love it ... Big fan of Eric's videos here too. Hello from "New Scotland"! (Nova Scotia)
I do like the way you show your WTF moments. if i had this type of teacher when I was trying to get my head around this kind of stuff. I would have felt a lot more better about my abilities. Keep up the good work.
Rolling. Action! And here the light goes..Doh! Goes... Doh! Goes....Doh! Goes ON (swears under breath) Carried on like a true Pro. Thoroughly entertaining as always.
It's like Diagnosis Murder lol Good video Clive! Glad you figured that out.. cool how they have evolved the LED mouthing from wires to soldering direct to bus bars.
I think our best discoveries when everything goes wrong. Well done!
Andrew van der Stock - you certainly learn faster when it all goes wrong! Especially when you get unexpected sparks, a bang, magic smoke or similar 😂
I tried to build a dc-dc converter very similar to this one the other week.. It went about as well as this video! Although mine was a Linear Technology 1613 SOT23-sized device and seemed to demand microscopic positioning of explicitly SMT support components. It did *not* like strip-board and a DIL-converter one little bit!
I _was_ planning to try again with a much more spatially-forgiving design based around a micro controller to provide the pulse which I found on some German fellow's website, but... A couple of moderately expensive failures, one after the other in quick succession has really taken the electronics enthusiasm out of my sails. Maybe I'll try again post-Yule.
The 'resilience to being bumped about' would be an awesome thing to have in an RV, Trailer or other automotive (high vibration) application.
I learn more when things don't work right away, making it work is more fun.
Clive, your statement brought a song by Del Amitri back to my mind, which i have been listening to a bunch of years ago. "And nothing ever happens, nothing happens at all; the needle returns to the start of the song, and we all sing along like before"
Loved it. I like the ones that don't come out quite as you expected. It's life and shows your living it.
Just a reminder. Clive has almost 500k subscribers. And that's AMAZING!
For once whilst watching your extremely entertaining channel I'm glad it's both of us that are confused. Not just me like usual. 😉
I recently bought one of those style meters and it was completely unusable. Have worn out many over the past 30 years in low power circuits but found a real red lemon from harbor a few weeks ago!
I liked the lamp, very nice. Even better, it all went wrong! EXCELLENT!
Why not start with measuring the original supply inside the lamp? ;-) Like this video though. Sometimes also someone else is stuck in a kind of loop when doing tiungs...
Duh. Good comment.
I love your videos I love your accent and I love your hand movements thats entertainment by the way there's the American version of your program who speaks highly of you I'm a novice learner thanks !
Nice shout out to south main auto. We really do watch all the same people as a electronics nerd community, don’t we?
Alternate title for this video, "Everything you know is wrong" also perfect listening music when not enjoying Mad Scottish Electronics Engineers. Great stuff indeed Clive, my would love to have had a shop teacher like you because of two things, I'd know a lot more on electronics than me and my dad do combind, and we'll I live in Southern Illinois while we have a decent University, High Schools are as rubbish as those shake lamps you did a video on. One, I repeat one teacher in the whole of my school was such a attentive teacher that I never turned homework in due to a very long story, he passed me every year because he knew I was understanding his class well enough that home work was a formality and the tests were what counted.
Practicality is more important than formality, paperwork for paperwork's sake is rubbish and has been since bureaucracy gained any traction so since the dawn of modern man. I think we can agree on that point after all the rants you've gone on about certain "Policy Implementation" on the electric guidelines in the UK, Scotland really does seem to produce " Practical, Peppery and proud" people glad I can confirm half my blood comes from the Highlands.
Is it normal that power supplies increase the current four fold as the voltage halves? Seems strange. Or did I miss hear?
The mode switch in the 830b meters does play up, the contacts are cheap.
Rotate the switch a few times before use.
I've got a couple of those--same issue. I wonder if some Cool-Amp might help that, or maybe some dielectric grease on the contacts to keep oxidation at bay...
Full Wave Bridge Rectifier - could be operated from AC source such as an outdoor low voltage lighting system? Personally I'm glad you don't edit your videos (much), learning and amusement go together rather well on Big Clive's channel.
Can you screw it in an e27 socket and what would happened
The chance of mistakenly screwing this low voltage device into a full domestic supply E27 adaptor seems quite high. I'd also like to know what the failure mode is under such circumstances. @bigclivedotcom. Would you like to try this, you know, for science?
You will let the smoke out......
Lots of angry pixies will start dancing the Time Warp
@Gregory Thomas, "It's astounding, time is fleeting"
your hand turns black with soot and you get 3rd degree burns from molten plastic as it then shocks you have to death... lol sounded good anyway
Here in the states, the 12 volt bulbs are used for emergency lighting. The circuit is wired to a 12 volt battery, and automatically come on during a power outage. I always keep a spare bulb on hand, because they all have to work to pass the fire dept inspection.
A LED bulb would pull less amps and provide light for a longer period of time
I like these sorts of videos. Makes me feel good about being a mere mortal!
I love peoples honesty. I did wonder how they could call a filament an LED (light emitting diode) This video breaks it down and explains.
That electrolytic capacitor is most likely the input capacitor. I had a bunch of those drivers in the 1W version, which can drive more LED's in series. The magic smoke comes out though when driving 2 LED's in series while lowering the input voltage below 8 to10V. These drivers work best between 12 and 14 V.
I knew nothing at the beginning and certainly nothing in the middle and confused at the end! - Interesting!!
Even your disaster videos are interesting, Clive. Perhaps _the_ most interesting! ;-) Thanks.
A BIG THANK YOU Clive, your information is very useful, it has helped me immensely, well done
Whatever happened to the old large Amecal meter? Did it blow up?
Dial shaft failed, but I've got a new part to fit into it.
I love the description and watching it after.. Yes this is like life.. nothing is as it seems.
So it consumes more wattage when you lowered the voltage going in, is it possible to make it more efficient when exceeding 12 volts input?
That suspension when you see "disaster" in the video title of a Big Clive video and waiting for the disaster to happen
Imagine if it was a pink cheap USB charger, from China...
"Where's the Kaboom? There was supposed to be an Earth-shattering kaboom!"
Marvin!
I'm drinking coffee and made sure not to be ingesting while he turned up up the tension on the LEDs. The actual point of failure surprised me as I was expecting it to be the alligator clips as I have had bad experiences with those.
EpicLPer If you like disasters, check out Electroboom.
Using an E27 is brilliant. They should put standard AC power plugs on USB devises as well.
Just trow it in the stores like that. People don't read so doesn't matter what it says on the thing anyway. It's a whole new form of natural selection.
Or USB females to AC outputs. Chines ofc as regulations wont affect them.
That nonsense really got going with PCs. They used a serial connector for a parallel port, a joystick connector for a serial port, and an Ethernet connector for a joystick port and for an audio port. I was just waiting for them to use a sub-D connector for the main input too!
In the PA audio world some people started using XLR (usually line/mic) for speakers and later power as well (so they could interchange cables). If you know what you're doing and label everything correctly it might work, but I think so much stuff got blown up that it wasn't worth the savings on cables for most.
When SpeakON came out it was often used for power as well because it has connector locking. Though if you didn't use bi-amping over a single cable you could use 1&2 for speakers and 3&4 for power (but no cable saving/flexibility that way). Eventually they created PowerCON, but lots of people still have SpeakON PowerCON pigtails or converters in the random box so they can use whatever cable they have at hand in a pinch.
Connection standards have always been a mess.
It's worth noting that since this is a boost circuit, the output voltage can't go lower than the input voltage. So if you try to supply over the combined forward voltage of the LEDs, there's no current limiting!
19:44 Soldered straight to the conductors. That's standard 'Surface Mount Device' (SMD) practice. check any modern PCB.
Love the South Main Auto reference there. Awesome video 👍🏻
Interesting video.Nice bumping into you in Poundland :)
It's always nice to meet viewers in real life.
Wait what? How did u know it was him?
@pmailkeey, it was the name of one of the bars in that 1980 flick "Cruising", possibly one of Al Pacino's worst.
@pmailkeey Sounds more like an excellent name for a gay strip club, from the pound notes tucked into the dancers' G-strings. Too bad the name is already taken.
@@gregbrockway4452 I didn't know that! Very cool.
Great save! Always wanted to know what was in these bad boys.
"Now, the top is plastic..."
-oh shit, maybe it wasn't! 😅
-i was thinking:is he gone get zapet in this video!?
@@johncoops6897 don't bring THAT up :/
Hey Clive, could take apart one of these super expensive Philips Hue bulbs to see what makes them different? I've had my Hues for years and they've been working without a hitch. Compared to my Osram Lightify bulbs that have almost all given up the ghost after a few months of use.
I am surprised you didn't just check the output of the power supply to see the voltage it runs at.
It's a current regulating supply. The open circuit voltage could have been a lot higher than the normal voltage.
@@bigclivedotcom, I do get that but could you of tested it while running the lights on it to see the voltage going through the LEDs?
Not in this case. The 2 led strips were broken during the cover removal so the light would not have lit up to measure.
@@rickpaulos, if he would of tried that though it probably would of been much easier to realize connections were broken.
Love the SMA reference! It's always great when one of your youtube heroes watches another one of your other youtube heroes.
The minute Clive brings out a can of brake cleaner and the sound plays, I'm officially done.
Clive, screwing up is the best way to learn.
What voltage is needed to power the led array? Why didn't you just read the output voltage from the PS / Regulator in the base of the lamp ?
Nice video thank you for making it, big fan of Eric O, I put you in the same super knowledgeable category as him 😀
I was curious about the design of the circuit thanks. Mainly as these bulbs seem to be on the 3 dollar range. I guess this is due to the low manufactured volumes compared to the 1 dollar 220 bulbs. I am also hoping these 12v filament bulbs can survive longer than their 220v counterparts....
that was a sudden pry and many things can happen... it happens ... Or prying something and cutting wires with pry tool. The final result is good, trace the problem, and keep going
I think these lamps are ideal in a camping environment, you can use them even with a half dead battery without turning the engine on.
The bulb is shaped so because it's made to look like an Edison bulb. Traditional Edison bulbs have filaments in various shapes emitting a warm orange glow, but they're one of the most inefficient types out there. The bulb you're looking at appears to be an LED version of the Edison bulb, which should solve it's only drawback.
“The best-laid plans of mice and men gang aft pear-shaped.” -Burns, Cutts and Brewses
You really need a USB microscope camera setup... A SUPER tight zoom would be great for some of these... Thanks for the great learning content!
Well Clive me ol’ mate the error videos are massively interesting (to me at least) as seeing problem solving is very helpful and if not now then in the future for this novice!
Bob
England
Do they make these in B22 fitting? I have some ideas. (some googling did show that canal boats often use 12v b22 bulbs so maybe i should go to a chandlery)
You may find them on eBay.
LEDs are really evolving nowadays, I'm amazed how they are used for nearly all lighting now. I was looking at a shopping centres Xmas lights the other eveneng thinking christ! How many single Leds are there amongst all those lights.. And then multiply that by the thousands of shopping centres around the world, and people's homes, tvs, light fittings, etc.. It's billions and billions.. Does China exclusively make Leds? Its crazy big market stuff for such a small component.. Fascinating!
17:15 the Resistor reads 'R910' the R takes the place of the decimal point, so it is 0.91 Ohms
the other is '10R0' so its 10.0 Ohms
Having the filaments in series is also a goo way to ensure that they can sell more of them since only one failed filament is enough for the vendor to make a new sale.
One thing that is also bugging me is that when you look at the packaging then it's listed as a lifetime of an LED lamp being like 40000 hours, but that's only the case if it's on for a limited time each day and even the "off" time is included in those 40000 hours. That's not the same as the MTBF value you get on other components.
I wonder if they make long continuous ceramic strips and than cut them to size...
I thought you were going a bit photonic for a second with the voltage rising and rising. "till it pops" XD
Richard Andrews ironically I was too expecting it.. come on Clive! Do a cheap LED pop! I like seeing the cheap LEDs release their pixies.
Zachary Sandberg last video he was not his usual self and was suggesting that he may use the big boys power supply in a terminal fashion. Nothing seen since.
@@zacharysandberg I hope he's doing well too, that last video he did was a tough watch
SouthMainAuto shoutout at 12:52!
... Why were you getting a negative voltage?
The rotary meter selector was suffering from a bad contact.
ElectroBOOM was also having trouble with turning on a lamp....
I wasn't sure if I should laugh or cry. Thankfully, turned out for the best.
You’ll always have fanny flambeaux, one of my personal favourites
It occurs to me that the random LED spacing might be on purpose. With regular spacing, if the lens is faceted at all, you may end up with a repeating pattern of light on a wall. With random spacing the pattern from one bulb would be random (and likely blamed on the glass). More than one bulb and any pattern would barely be visible at all.
At least you were able to salvage the video with the discovery of how those LEDs are made up, pretty neat... :)
And "XLSemi", totally doesn't sound like a well-endowed person who can't quite get it up.............. :P
Xl semiconductor.
Great video made even better with a reference to the fantastic Eric O at South Main Auto's
Could you use a Fluke 77iii with a broken stand? No use to me as I've just got myself a Fluke 289.
Holy crap, I have that same "shitty meter". It was a gift from a family member so I can't just toss it. I keep it on my bench in case they come around while I'm piddling. It does a reasonable job of testing transistors, diodes and resistors. Works okay for a quick "is there power?" check.
The cheap meters are surprisingly accurate. Ideal for when you need to measure two variables at once.
Hey Mr. clive, I have a quick question. I have a friends Trainset with a small motor in it. it let the magic smoke out, so we're trying to replace it. the motor we have just oscillates it dies not make any RPM's at all. any idea what is going on there?
If it's free to rotate the control circuitry may have issues.
@@bigclivedotcom thanks! it does it even direct from the power supply too. I've never seen the little can motors vibrate back and forth like that. it's like the other side of the coil does not flip to the opposite polarity of the motor and allow it to turn... Weird.
I though you'd start applying 2.5 volts to each individual LED strip. It didn't occur to you then. Oh well it happens 😁
On our ship everything is 450v, I would love to screw one of these in there and see what kind of a mess we get...lol. Thanks for another great video.
Blown rectifier, exploded cap, blown driver chip. Not much more drama in all likelihood.
Hi Clive, do you still use a phone to shoot your videos? If so which one as my new one the one you advised me about the 9v then 5v USB charging on it the other day, I'm absolutely blown away with the quality of video and this isn't even a top of the range a P20 lite.
That bulb is very deceptively called an LED (light emitting diode). There isn't anything diodec about it The emitting filament has no diode effect. The diode he mentioned in the circuit board he pulled from the base If you removed the plastic casing from around the internal filament will emit a very bright light...that would be a true light emitting diode. Those crazy readings from the FILAMENT is an incandescent effect ...not a diode at all! Bravo! The technician in this film has got it! What it is actually named is a "Light Emitting Wafer" with a filament core. Only about half as efficient as a true LED bulb.
Where’s the kaboom? There was supposed to be an Earth-shattering KABOOM! 😆
“There’s your problem lady!” Classic