1982 Atari Pole Position Arcade PCB Repair
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- Опубликовано: 12 мар 2020
- To learn some of my methods of troubleshooting and other general arcade tech stuff, or just to lend support to the channel, visit my Patreon page and at:
/ classicarcaderepairs
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Everything listed from Amazon that I actually use and recommend :)
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Yes i do offer repair service to the public..
Email questions or PCB repair inquiries to:
Classicarcaderepairs@gmail.com
#arcade #pcbrepair #retrogaming 
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To learn some of my methods of troubleshooting and other general arcade tech stuff, or just to lend support to the channel, visit my Patreon page and at:
www.patreon.com/classicarcaderepairs
Would definitely also watch a "all the soldering of 'this board'" videos too
So many customs, luckily they were good, imagine how many of these boards ended up in the trash because of them. Great repair!
Great one! I’ve learned a lot about your process from your videos. They are all super helpful
That was a tough one. Great job:💪
I was really surprised to see you took on a pole position board and repaired it as quickly as you did. BRAVO! This was your first? Only a few people seem to repair them due to the design and all those custom chips you discovered. That's a great test setup you made for this board BTW. There are a lot of dead PP cabs out there. Now that you posted this, I hope you are prepared for what could come....lol. Nice job man!
Thanks! This was an interesting one for sure!
Nice repair! I dropped a lot of quarters into that one as a kid.
That LS161 at 6A is the watchdog timer. The clear signal coming into pin 1 is marked /WDR for WatchDog Reset. As the ripple output is tapped to drive /RES, it will be asserted 1/16th of the time if the counter is not reset by the code. The V128 clock gives the code enough time to hit /WDR, but any relatively slow clock V128 speed or slower could be used, even a 555 soldered on top.
You are an artist at this,love these videos and they are so informative,please keep them coming
Thank you!
There are so few Pole Position Boards still alive out there. Between alkaline damage, custom chips and burned up edge connectors its nice to see one come back to life! Your skill is not a common trait these days Sean. I am curious where you obtained your technical understanding of this antiquated technology. That would be a great video and story we would all like to hear. Pole position was and is my favorite driving game. One I do not own but would sure like to.
Heck yeah! Excellent job! Another PP saved.
Excellent. Learned alot.
I used to love this game back in the day
Nice Job !! Patience is a virtue
SUPER excited to watch this one! ;-)
Another great video. Thank you!
You are so smart that I think you might be a little crazy. That repair has to be worth USD 8K
maybe a little :)
Nice work tracking it all down and that cowboy gas setup was excellent. Thanks!
Thank you!! Im usually pretty good at deciphering auto correct issue... but that one may he the best i’ve seen! “Cowboy gas setup” !! 😂😂
@@classicarcaderepairs4818 haha i dont use auto correct! Electronic cowboy; as in someone out on the range left to their own devices and self reliant, not needing to buy something from town to complete a task, they see what they have on hand and create unique solutions. Like building your own interboard harness to lay them beside each other, rigging a pot off the board for a gas pedal etc. Ive see techs with some serious cowboy setups that make you simply smile with the cleverness.
WildernessGames and Arcade ahhhh. Ok i see :). Never heard that one! Thank you:). Yeah u have to get creative in order to test everything :)
@Mr Guru aahh yes, i have surely seen my share of Cowboy butchery on some of these PCB's that come my way :)
Great video! And such a great game.
Thank you! And yes.. awesome game
Happy birthday!
Thanks!!
You were Barking Up the Wrong Trace!
you are a god
Aww shucks.. thank you sir
GREAT video! I have a PP II that just started exhibiting a road condition where the road becomes split and grass is in the middle. I've cleaned and reseated all chips but I'm wondering which section I should start examining more closely. Everything else works perfectly. I started with power and have rebuilt both ARs to start. I figured it would help have a good foundation.
First off thank you! :-)…. Yeah I’m not yet an expert on Pole position by any means LOL… But I would have to think that your problem has to do with the road address mapping… I know I skimmed over that somewhere in the schematic… Or maybe it was in the manual… But I saw something where it was saying what part of the board handles what is on the screen
@@classicarcaderepairs4818 Edit: I believe it was in the manual where it says which chips do what in the chart.
Any help would be appreciated... I'm an expert on checking/burning EPROM chips on PCBs, socketing ram chips (and fixing monitor chassis's) but just not with logic probes/schematics. Though I'm eager to learn!
Question. I've never seen anywhere on how to connect power to a logic probe (I have one). It's it typically +5v and any ground? If there are no test pins I assume you link to pin 1 on an eprom chip?
DeLuSioNaL's Arcade Yes you just grab 5 V on the board that you are testing… And any ground… A lot of times I will hook to a capacitor that is filtering the 5 V coming into the board if it’s an axial leaded cap
DeLuSioNaL's Arcade A lot of people will ask questions like what do you think this problem is and stuff like that… I tend to stay out of those conversations because it’s not as easy as just go I know what that is… It takes a ton of studing schematics and understanding what each part of the board is doing... Luckily, the pole position manual is very informative and can really point you in the right direction
Are those blue edge connectors Viking ones? Expensive but well worth the expense if you need reliable connectors.
I don’t think so… I think they’re just regular run-of-the-mill solder eyelet edge connectors
i think it would be interesting to each time say how many hours and days you spent on it .... we only have the resumé of less then 1 hour each time
Are the sounds coming from that missle command speaker assembly I saw on your bench??? I’d love to buy that from you....😉
Hahaha!! No its not hooked up... and didnt i gwt that from you?! Hahaha
Hey. Nice video. Where do you find the schematic? TIA
thanks... i just find them online.... google
Hello, one question, I have a pole position pcb that when it is lit it says ram 6 what can it be? Thanks!!
Im not sure... you would need to consult the manual
@Mr Guru Good advice and thanks you for the description of that fault message.. :)
Anyone know someone in Chicago that would work on my pole position? Worked but now I get sound and picture is pixelated. Appreciate any help
So if one had a PP pcb that needed repair...how could they contact you?
You can email me at arcadedoc524@gmail.com
There is an ongoing debate about the ‘bulletproof’ mod, and ‘sense’ mod for Pole Position. Those that are against doing them always argue that you should keep everything original, and if you have a good edge connector you don’t have to do anything else (like the opinion in this video)…but that argument is flawed by the assumption that the original design is good. 100% of PP machines came out of the factory with a brand new edge connector, and nearly all failed. In most cases I believe in keeping things original but for PP, you have to look at whether the original design is solid enough.
My issue with it is this. It is putting bandaid on a bigger issue. If your edge connector is so bad that you need to wire in extra +5 and ground wires.... then you really should change the edge connector.... and if you do change the connector... then you eliminate the need to run extra wires..... the PCB edges burn up because the orinal pinning of the edge connector has failed.. causing high resistance at the edge... and the AR supply over compensating. The original edges that Atari used were pretty flimsy , not the greatest in my opinion, if replaced with a good firm solder eyelet edge.... then running extra wires becomes overkill.
Ok, I agree with you there. My statement is more about the AR supply overcompensating than it is about the running of extra wires…the two often get lumped together when they are different things. I fixed my board edge, and added new connectors, but still elected to disable the sense circuit so it’s way less likely for my boards to get the entire 12v…this is the design choice I question. If PP would have been manufactured a couple more years, I bet there would have been a change.
P.s. Great videos…I’ve learned a lot from them!
I'm a computer need and as such I can't stand it when I see LONG trace bypass wires! IF you have to make repairs then use SHORT bodge wires or trace tape to make those repairs. When you start jumping power from one point to another you can end up causing logic signal problems like excessive noise in a working circuit......
I agree