This video is extremely comprehensive. Very informative. I saved myself so much money. The dealership wanted $620 to do it. The parts cost me $140. And because of the video I was able to do it myself. First time I've done it. It took me about two hours
Excellent video and job description. Local Ford dealer was going to charge me around $700 in just labor to change the belt and tensioner!! I paid $145 for belt and tensioner, watched for video and did the job myself in the driveway. Took me about an hour and a half with a couple breaks (it’s 95 Deg and about 90% humidity)! I was sweating like a pig but saved myself a lot of money! Thanks a lot!
@@FordTechMakuloco mu 6.4 is making a chirping noise and when I typed in "my 6.4 powerstroke chirping" a bunch of videos popped up about the serpentine belt, this fixed the chirping?
Thank you for making and posting a detailed video. Just changed both serpentine belts and discovered a failing belt tensioner - THANKS for pointing that out. And you saved me a crap-ton of money!!! Hey Ford, you put 25 lbs of engine and components in a 5 lb engine compartment.
Excellent video, took me about 4 hours. Thought I was changing belt, found out it was idler puller and changed tensioner just for fun,new belt on and I’m good to go, ty so much, could have not done it without u!
Ok being a good diesel mechanic is one thing.. but being able to get very good video of the whole process basically doing the job with one hand and crunch it down in a nice edit. Incredibly impressive. Thank you 🙏 for your service hope you are blessed 10x for all of the people this has helped over the years.
Thank you so much for posting this video. The belt broke on my 2008 F250 and I lost power steering and power brakes - very scary - but the weird thing is that my air conditioner was still working. Thanks to you, I now know that the A/C has a separate belt. I studied your video and was able to replace both tension pulleys and both belts in about 2 hours in my driveway. My accessory tension pulley was split just like the one in your video. It was chirping for a few weeks before it broke. I saved a bundle of money by doing the work myself and I was back on the road in one day, as opposed to leaving it at the dealership for a week. THANK YOU !!!
Thank you for a great video... my wife went to leave the driveway this morning and had no power steering or brakes... I knew it was the serpentine but we live several hours from the nearest garage and or Ford ... I was able to get the parts delivered and your video has helped me with every step to replace both the tensioner and the belt... Thanks for a well detailed video
Thanks for posting this man! Mine just crapped out this morning & I wondered how much grief I would be into to repair this myself. Love my 2010 F350 just hate having to do ANY work on it! Everything is jammed in like sardines in a can. I miss my old 1978 F250 I could sit right in the engine compartment & almost close the hood! I think I'm just gonna buy another one & restore it myself because I could restore an entire 1978 F250 front to back in the time it takes to re&re a serpentine belt on my 2010!
FordTechMakuloco! You rock, I knew my belt was in bad shape and ordered a new one. Checked out your video and decided to check out the tensioner. looking at it from the bottom, the damage was easy to see. I live on an island in Alaska and getting parts takes a few days. Thanks to you I found the bad tensioner before taking anything apart. Finished the job from start to finish in about 90 min. Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing this video I was only gonna replace the belt until I came across this video and sure enough I peaked under the truck and my tension was split just like the one in the video..... thanks again!
I see you posted this video well over a year ago. But I wanted to say thank you you save my ass. I'm pretty sure I would have been cussing and screaming if it weren't for your video and your help thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to make the vid. My accessory tensioner failed under warranty and Ford replaced. Just about to crest 100k and the A/C is making noise now... going to replace all of it again. Two tensioners, two idlers, two belts, that is it? I have dual alts if that makes a difference
Hey all I did this today.. Thank you for your video. An update all the bolts on the shroud are 8mm. Also I got all my parts from rock auto and got gates tensioner and gates fleetrunner green belt. The tensioner from gates is exact oe, the area that would say "motorcrap" on the tensioner is just filed away. They probably make it for ford. Btw go buy the trim tool used in the video it works great!
Gracias por el tiempo que dedicas a realizar videos, me fue de mucha ayuda. bendiciones... hubiera sido facil decir gracias en ingles, pero lo hice en español por que quiero que sepas que tus videos llegan muy lejos. gracias y bendiciones...
2 different tensioners BT90 BT91 are the part numbers I am sure they changed already but dealer will order latest part. In order to do the a/c belt and tensioner you have to pull the front regular drive belt and tensioner and explained in this video, plus cooling fan stator. Then they are literally right there for ya!
Can you run the truck with the upper shrouds off along with the connections and lines being unplugged? I want to hear the tensioner before putting everything back on to make sure thats all ive got going on
Thanks For Video, One thing , You show shroud lifted up after taking of reservoir bolts, thats a missed step, another bolt on shroud half, that you mentioned later
Great instructional video, thanks for taking the time to create it! One question regarding the tensioners, I see there is an inner and an outer, would you recommend replacing both tensioners and belts while I'm in there this weekend? Thanks.
I would replace the belt and tensioner. I have never seen the revised idler fix anything. Its easy enough just watch my video as you are doing it. As for the tensioner there are multiples. It is best to have the dealer look it up by your vin.
I just followed this tutorial. Amazing by the way, I love your videos. However, when I got everything back together and drove home, the power steering pump was whining very loud, and the brake was struggling to work. I turned it off immediately and saw the power steering fluid had overflowed and was VERY aerated with tons of bubbles. I did a flush the next day and did the whole front end in the air and moving tires lock to lock about 40 times with the truck off, and topped the fluid off. I drove it for a quarter mile and the same exact thing. I'll let the steering fluid lose all the bubbles then start it back up, and when I press the brakes is when it seems to start to leak and froth the steering fluid. Anyone have an idea where the air is coming from???
Yes LH threads that is correct. That is the way we were going but it is on like a son of a gun! I've read in some of the forums that they used an air hammer and chisel to loosen it. Tried that too, no good! Any suggestions?
Not sure if you still check these comments, but wondering if I just noticed this chirp and it's not too loud, can I put this repair off for a bit? I realize that is quite subjective, just looking for some opinions.
Great video, thank you. I ordered the OE part from rock auto, all the numbers are the same except that this tensioner pushes down and not up. Went back to site and on the one I ordered it says "MOTORCRAFT Part # BT91 {#7C3Z6B209B} Inner; Heavy Duty Alternator" and the other OE part it say MOTORCRAFT Part # BT122 Outer; Heavy Duty Alternator I had no idea there is a difference, were you aware of the difference? Why is there 2 different parts for same engine?
Thank you for the video. i just spent 3 hours on my back under my 6.4 trying to bull work the tensioner up, i got it to work but what a pain in the ass. I have a busted tensioner on the ac belt. how do you get the fan shroud off?
I'm having a whining noise in my 6.4 no issues turning or no leaks. Changed the power steering fluid and still a whining noise when I give it gas. Would this be the idler pulley? Thanks great video
I am trying to remove the fan clutch nut on my 6.4. I am replacing the radiator due to a leak and decided to replace the thermostats, drive belt, and water pump while in there as preventave maint. I CANNOT get that nut loose! I've broken 2 sets of OEM tools fan clutch removal kit wrenches already. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!!
Great vid thank you. I didn't see the need to remove cable from fan. My tensioner was broken just like yours but belt never came off but if it did is there a possibility that it would just hit the fan and make a real mess?
Yes that belt falls off and the first place it will get wrapped up in is the fan and is likely to damage fan. I pulled the wire from the fan just to get more stuff out of the way especially for routing the new belt back on.
FordTechMakuloco ohh ok I only had to do the tensioner, I actually used a used one but a new one was $160 so I figured that now I know how to do it I can do it any time. Amazing that they would design it so if bet goes so can the fan.
That's for the idler, what's the part number for the tensioner? Should I replace both, or better yet have the dealer replace both? I get the chirping when first started in the morning, then goes away.
Thanks for the video I plan on tackling once it gets warmer, I noticed that when I first start my truck ( 2009 f250 6.4L) at idle I get a slight chirp from the belt but seems to go away when the engine warms up. could this be the belt being dried out? Or is this signs the tensioner is starting to go. I have 64K on the truck. If so what are the part numbers for the tensioners and accessory belt? there are so many part numbers out there. I saw a BT91 for a tensioner but also a BT90. How about a DAYCO gold belt would that be ok? Any aftermarket tensioners that would be ok like a DAYCO as well?
There are two belt and two tensioners. If you are going in there I would change the belt and tensioner the belt material was known for a chirp before the revised belt and the tensioners are known to split. I would only use motorcraft for this repair your ford dealer can look up which belt is which in the diagram.
FordTechMakuloco whats the motocraft part# for the main accessory drive tensioner? I can get Motocraft parts for half off on rock auto. dealer wants 180 bucks for the belt tensioner for motorcraft. Rock auto is 88.00 for same part
Christopher Renaud Yeah I am seeing BT-90 also but you can go here- www.fordparts.com and put your vin in and get the exact parts for your engine config at least the correct part numbers the front tensioner in the parts diagram is the main belt. I wont be into work till at least Tuesday to even check our parts system.
FordTechMakuloco ok so 2 tensioners, a BT 91 (6b209A) and BT90 (6b209b) but I cannot tell on the fordparts diagram which one is the accessory drive tensioner and which one is the AC tensioner. thanks
FordTechMakuloco I just jumped right right in. I watched the video, memorized the key points and went with it. Super easy and kinda ticked I paid someone to start with. You will need to remove the Serp belt and tensioner to replace the A/C one, imho if you replace one of these, replace both to save the headache later. The A/C tensioner on mine had completely crapped the bed. The pulley had separated from the arm and wedged between it and the block. A couple of key notes, you'll need a 3 inch and 8 inch extension its tight with just one or the other. This goes for both the bolt and tensioner release. If replacing the belt you will need a 13mm standard depth socket, a deep will wobble too much and cause possibly a stripped bolt head. This socket is to remove the lower shroud bolt for the mount NEAREST the tensioner. You will then pull and flex the bracket to allow you to remove the belt which runs around it. No need to remove the whole lower shroud just be cognizant of the pressure used to flex the bracket.Its tougher than you think. Here is the kicker I ran into, releasing the tensioner to its normal operating position. I used a 14 inch piece of conduit sized enough to fit over the socket wrench. That gave me enough leverage to move the arm enough to remove the pin. I TY-WRAPPED the pipe up the the drag link so I could get the pin out from the top side. When you remove the pin and ty-wrap the HOLD the pipe. The wrench will lodge itself against the lower shroud bracket. What I did was take the pipe off and force the ratchet as far to the bracket as I could. Then I took my long pry bar and popped the ratchet off the extension, then just pulled the extension off the arm. Replace all the parts and give it a test run.. I think if you are patient, set up your tools before starting and pay attention as you go there will be zero issues. A helper could come in handy though if available. I honestly think I could get the Serp arm and belt done in 45 min BOTH in about 1hr30 easy.. Your video was well explained and really gave confidence to do this project
+Keith Seningen Keith, The Video +FordTechMakuloco produced was excellent except for addressing the second tensioner and how to get the A/C belt off. I was struggling with that A/C belt and you taking the time to explain that part of it made the effort much less frustrating. Thank you and Thank you +FordTechMakuloc, your video was excellent and saved a lot of us a lot of cash...and frustration... :)
Here's what part no. are the belts: 7C3E-8620-CD - Alternator Belt 7C3E-8620-FB - AC Two tensioners... So, are they the same? And how the heck do I get to the AC belt?
Yeah if you're getting paid by the hour that's the best way! You can just unhook your clutch fan wiring and work it around your clutch fan and it's on You Don't have to take anything else apart.
I wish I had time to do it myself I called my local Ford dealer and they are telling me to change both belts and both tensioners and it's going to be close to $1000. What are your thoughts on this?
Kinetic Diplomacist took about 2 hours to do all of it. get a serpentine belt tool it will help give you the leverage you need. other than that make sure your careful with the shroud. It's a pain to get back In. and wear long sleeves otherwise your arms will get cut up in the tight spaces.
Kinetic Diplomacist do your self a favor and do the A.C. belt and tensioner while your at it. ordered off rockauto.com Oem and best prices I could find.
Thanks! just ordered the full main kit (idler pulleys, tensioner, and belt) A/C tensioner and belt. All Gates. As well as the belt tool. All for less than $230 shipped. Now for the tedious portion once it all gets here...
This video is extremely comprehensive. Very informative. I saved myself so much money. The dealership wanted $620 to do it. The parts cost me $140. And because of the video I was able to do it myself. First time I've done it. It took me about two hours
Excellent video and job description. Local Ford dealer was going to charge me around $700 in just labor to change the belt and tensioner!! I paid $145 for belt and tensioner, watched for video and did the job myself in the driveway. Took me about an hour and a half with a couple breaks (it’s 95 Deg and about 90% humidity)! I was sweating like a pig but saved myself a lot of money! Thanks a lot!
Thks much brother.. yesterday i was a contractor with a busted ford ,today im a ford mechanic with a new tensioner and belt.
Sweet!
@@FordTechMakuloco mu 6.4 is making a chirping noise and when I typed in "my 6.4 powerstroke chirping" a bunch of videos popped up about the serpentine belt, this fixed the chirping?
Exactly what I was looking for to get my 2008 F350 moving today and at 23'F, I don't want to waste any time. Thank you!
Great video. Thanks for producing it. Just did this replacement and it only took about 1 1/2 hours. No more chirping!
Thank you for making and posting a detailed video. Just changed both serpentine belts and discovered a failing belt tensioner - THANKS for pointing that out. And you saved me a crap-ton of money!!! Hey Ford, you put 25 lbs of engine and components in a 5 lb engine compartment.
Excellent video, took me about 4 hours. Thought I was changing belt, found out it was idler puller and changed tensioner just for fun,new belt on and I’m good to go, ty so much, could have not done it without u!
Ok being a good diesel mechanic is one thing.. but being able to get very good video of the whole process basically doing the job with one hand and crunch it down in a nice edit. Incredibly impressive. Thank you 🙏 for your service hope you are blessed 10x for all of the people this has helped over the years.
Thank you so much for posting this video. The belt broke on my 2008 F250 and I lost power steering and power brakes - very scary - but the weird thing is that my air conditioner was still working. Thanks to you, I now know that the A/C has a separate belt. I studied your video and was able to replace both tension pulleys and both belts in about 2 hours in my driveway. My accessory tension pulley was split just like the one in your video. It was chirping for a few weeks before it broke. I saved a bundle of money by doing the work myself and I was back on the road in one day, as opposed to leaving it at the dealership for a week. THANK YOU !!!
Thank you for a great video... my wife went to leave the driveway this morning and had no power steering or brakes... I knew it was the serpentine but we live several hours from the nearest garage and or Ford ... I was able to get the parts delivered and your video has helped me with every step to replace both the tensioner and the belt... Thanks for a well detailed video
Now that is the kind of stories I like to hear! I am glad I could help in some way from far away right in your driveway. Good stuff!
Thanks for posting this man! Mine just crapped out this morning & I wondered how much grief I would be into to repair this myself.
Love my 2010 F350 just hate having to do ANY work on it! Everything is jammed in like sardines in a can. I miss my old 1978 F250 I could sit right in the engine compartment & almost close the hood! I think I'm just gonna buy another one & restore it myself because I could restore an entire 1978 F250 front to back in the time it takes to re&re a serpentine belt on my 2010!
FordTechMakuloco! You rock, I knew my belt was in bad shape and ordered a new one. Checked out your video and decided to check out the tensioner. looking at it from the bottom, the damage was easy to see. I live on an island in Alaska and getting parts takes a few days. Thanks to you I found the bad tensioner before taking anything apart. Finished the job from start to finish in about 90 min. Thanks again!
Awesome to hear man!!
Thanks for sharing this video I was only gonna replace the belt until I came across this video and sure enough I peaked under the truck and my tension was split just like the one in the video..... thanks again!
Great video followed it step-by-step and was able to complete this in 6 hours and I'm no mechanic
I see you posted this video well over a year ago. But I wanted to say thank you you save my ass. I'm pretty sure I would have been cussing and screaming if it weren't for your video and your help thanks.
David Conerly Nice!
Thanks for taking the time to make the vid. My accessory tensioner failed under warranty and Ford replaced. Just about to crest 100k and the A/C is making noise now... going to replace all of it again.
Two tensioners, two idlers, two belts, that is it? I have dual alts if that makes a difference
Thank you for this video. You saved me and others so much money, headache and time.
Hey all I did this today.. Thank you for your video. An update all the bolts on the shroud are 8mm. Also I got all my parts from rock auto and got gates tensioner and gates fleetrunner green belt. The tensioner from gates is exact oe, the area that would say "motorcrap" on the tensioner is just filed away. They probably make it for ford. Btw go buy the trim tool used in the video it works great!
Gracias por el tiempo que dedicas a realizar videos, me fue de mucha ayuda. bendiciones...
hubiera sido facil decir gracias en ingles, pero lo hice en español por que quiero que sepas
que tus videos llegan muy lejos. gracias y bendiciones...
2 different tensioners
BT90 BT91 are the part numbers I am sure they changed already but dealer will order latest part.
In order to do the a/c belt and tensioner you have to pull the front regular drive belt and tensioner and explained in this video, plus cooling fan stator. Then they are literally right there for ya!
On an 08 6.4 which tensioner model do you think it is or how would I be able to tell the difference
Dude....you. are. Awesome! Perfect video and you saved me several hundred dollars by doing this video! Thanks!
Ford Part number AC3Z-8620-A Motorcraft Part Number JK8872D This new belt seems to fix it, different design.
Thx for this! Gave me the confidence to remove the cowl to replace my power steering pump.
revised idler is on driver side top and is only for 2008 vehicle made before 11-9-2007 part number 7C3Z-8678-B
My recommendation is to take the tensioner off and take it with you when you go to buy it.
Can you run the truck with the upper shrouds off along with the connections and lines being unplugged? I want to hear the tensioner before putting everything back on to make sure thats all ive got going on
Very nicely done. Is it possible you can do a video of replacing the alternator belt and tensioner?
Thanks For Video, One thing , You show shroud lifted up after taking of reservoir bolts, thats a missed step, another bolt on shroud half, that you mentioned later
Great instructional video, thanks for taking the time to create it!
One question regarding the tensioners, I see there is an inner and an outer, would you recommend replacing both tensioners and belts while I'm in there this weekend?
Thanks.
Definitely!
I would replace the belt and tensioner. I have never seen the revised idler fix anything. Its easy enough just watch my video as you are doing it. As for the tensioner there are multiples. It is best to have the dealer look it up by your vin.
Your description gives part numbers for two different tensioners, and outer and an inner. Are there two of them?
I just followed this tutorial. Amazing by the way, I love your videos. However, when I got everything back together and drove home, the power steering pump was whining very loud, and the brake was struggling to work. I turned it off immediately and saw the power steering fluid had overflowed and was VERY aerated with tons of bubbles. I did a flush the next day and did the whole front end in the air and moving tires lock to lock about 40 times with the truck off, and topped the fluid off. I drove it for a quarter mile and the same exact thing. I'll let the steering fluid lose all the bubbles then start it back up, and when I press the brakes is when it seems to start to leak and froth the steering fluid. Anyone have an idea where the air is coming from???
Yes LH threads that is correct. That is the way we were going but it is on like a son of a gun! I've read in some of the forums that they used an air hammer and chisel to loosen it. Tried that too, no good!
Any suggestions?
Not sure if you still check these comments, but wondering if I just noticed this chirp and it's not too loud, can I put this repair off for a bit? I realize that is quite subjective, just looking for some opinions.
Thank you!
Thanks a million, to the point worked great.
Thanks for the video. Really makes this job alot easier.
Great video, thank you.
I ordered the OE part from rock auto, all the numbers are the same except that this tensioner pushes down and not up.
Went back to site and on the one I ordered it says "MOTORCRAFT Part # BT91 {#7C3Z6B209B}
Inner; Heavy Duty Alternator" and the other OE part it say MOTORCRAFT Part # BT122 Outer; Heavy Duty Alternator
I had no idea there is a difference, were you aware of the difference? Why is there 2 different parts for same engine?
InvisUser Tsal There is an outer and inner tensioner yes as mentioned in the video description where I list the latest parts
Thank you for the video. i just spent 3 hours on my back under my 6.4 trying to bull work the tensioner up, i got it to work but what a pain in the ass. I have a busted tensioner on the ac belt. how do you get the fan shroud off?
I have the dual alternator set up. Not sure if this truck is or not. Is the precedure the same? The inner/outer tensioner is confusing me also.
Bro, you just made my life so much easier.
Good to hear I know it's allot easier to have a walkthrough.
I'm having a whining noise in my 6.4 no issues turning or no leaks. Changed the power steering fluid and still a whining noise when I give it gas. Would this be the idler pulley? Thanks great video
Idler or tensioner pulley yes the bearings fail all the time and sounds like a power steering pump whine.
Hey FordTech, what's the proper procedure for bleeding out the PS system?
I am trying to remove the fan clutch nut on my 6.4. I am replacing the radiator due to a leak and decided to replace the thermostats, drive belt, and water pump while in there as preventave maint.
I CANNOT get that nut loose! I've broken 2 sets of OEM tools fan clutch removal kit wrenches already.
Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks!!
The 6.4L uses a LH thread so you must turn it to the right to loosen it!
Great vid thank you. I didn't see the need to remove cable from fan. My tensioner was broken just like yours but belt never came off but if it did is there a possibility that it would just hit the fan and make a real mess?
Yes that belt falls off and the first place it will get wrapped up in is the fan and is likely to damage fan. I pulled the wire from the fan just to get more stuff out of the way especially for routing the new belt back on.
FordTechMakuloco ohh ok I only had to do the tensioner, I actually used a used one but a new one was $160 so I figured that now I know how to do it I can do it any time. Amazing that they would design it so if bet goes so can the fan.
That's for the idler, what's the part number for the tensioner? Should I replace both, or better yet have the dealer replace both? I get the chirping when first started in the morning, then goes away.
Awesome video. It helped me and saved me a lot of $$
OK Thanks. I just noticed that I have two belts! So that means I have two Tensioners. Are they the same? Are the belts the same?
Did you go through Ford to but the parts? I think this may be my issue.
Thanks!
I can't place serpentine belt on my 6.4 350 08 can you make a video on how to install serpentine ? Thank you
Does the coolant/power steering fluid need to be drained in order to do this?
+jboehm9 No just moved out of the way.
@@FordTechMakuloco my ps pump is humming and bubbling after I replaced tensioner and belt.. what do I do now.... damn ford!!
Thank you very much for the reply
Thanks for the video I plan on tackling once it gets warmer, I noticed that when I first start my truck ( 2009 f250 6.4L) at idle I get a slight chirp from the belt but seems to go away when the engine warms up. could this be the belt being dried out? Or is this signs the tensioner is starting to go. I have 64K on the truck. If so what are the part numbers for the tensioners and accessory belt? there are so many part numbers out there. I saw a BT91 for a tensioner but also a BT90. How about a DAYCO gold belt would that be ok? Any aftermarket tensioners that would be ok like a DAYCO as well?
There are two belt and two tensioners. If you are going in there I would change the belt and tensioner the belt material was known for a chirp before the revised belt and the tensioners are known to split. I would only use motorcraft for this repair your ford dealer can look up which belt is which in the diagram.
FordTechMakuloco whats the motocraft part# for the main accessory drive tensioner? I can get Motocraft parts for half off on rock auto. dealer wants 180 bucks for the belt tensioner for motorcraft. Rock auto is 88.00 for same part
Christopher Renaud Yeah I am seeing BT-90 also but you can go here- www.fordparts.com
and put your vin in and get the exact parts for your engine config at least the correct part numbers the front tensioner in the parts diagram is the main belt. I wont be into work till at least Tuesday to even check our parts system.
FordTechMakuloco ok so 2 tensioners, a BT 91 (6b209A) and BT90 (6b209b) but I cannot tell on the fordparts diagram which one is the accessory drive tensioner and which one is the AC tensioner. thanks
The front one should be the regular belt and rear one in the diagram should be the a/c belt tensioner.
What's the belt part number for a single alternator 6.4 F250 Job 2? I've researched and found several different lengths.
just had the serpentine tensioner replaced.. Now the A/C one has failed. Gonna tackle it myself this time. Any tips for the A/C tensioner?
Thanks!
There really isn't much to it once you get this belt off the a/c belt and tensioner is not far behind and will be much easier then.
FordTechMakuloco I just jumped right right in. I watched the video, memorized the key points and went with it. Super easy and kinda ticked I paid someone to start with. You will need to remove the Serp belt and tensioner to replace the A/C one, imho if you replace one of these, replace both to save the headache later. The A/C tensioner on mine had completely crapped the bed. The pulley had separated from the arm and wedged between it and the block. A couple of key notes, you'll need a 3 inch and 8 inch extension its tight with just one or the other. This goes for both the bolt and tensioner release. If replacing the belt you will need a 13mm standard depth socket, a deep will wobble too much and cause possibly a stripped bolt head. This socket is to remove the lower shroud bolt for the mount NEAREST the tensioner. You will then pull and flex the bracket to allow you to remove the belt which runs around it. No need to remove the whole lower shroud just be cognizant of the pressure used to flex the bracket.Its tougher than you think. Here is the kicker I ran into, releasing the tensioner to its normal operating position. I used a 14 inch piece of conduit sized enough to fit over the socket wrench. That gave me enough leverage to move the arm enough to remove the pin. I TY-WRAPPED the pipe up the the drag link so I could get the pin out from the top side. When you remove the pin and ty-wrap the HOLD the pipe. The wrench will lodge itself against the lower shroud bracket. What I did was take the pipe off and force the ratchet as far to the bracket as I could. Then I took my long pry bar and popped the ratchet off the extension, then just pulled the extension off the arm. Replace all the parts and give it a test run.. I think if you are patient, set up your tools before starting and pay attention as you go there will be zero issues. A helper could come in handy though if available. I honestly think I could get the Serp arm and belt done in 45 min BOTH in about 1hr30 easy.. Your video was well explained and really gave confidence to do this project
Good to hear you got her done!
+Keith Seningen Keith, The Video +FordTechMakuloco produced was excellent except for addressing the second tensioner and how to get the A/C belt off. I was struggling with that A/C belt and you taking the time to explain that part of it made the effort much less frustrating. Thank you and Thank you +FordTechMakuloc, your video was excellent and saved a lot of us a lot of cash...and frustration... :)
Here's what part no. are the belts:
7C3E-8620-CD - Alternator Belt
7C3E-8620-FB - AC
Two tensioners... So, are they the same? And how the heck do I get to the AC belt?
Yeah if you're getting paid by the hour that's the best way! You can just unhook your clutch fan wiring and work it around your clutch fan and it's on You Don't have to take anything else apart.
Great video! Thanks for posting. need to perform this service on PSD.
I wish I had time to do it myself I called my local Ford dealer and they are telling me to change both belts and both tensioners and it's going to be close to $1000. What are your thoughts on this?
Patrick pierce Seems high but if you don't have the time what other choice do you have?
anything hard or different about changing the AC belt and tensioner I plan on replacing all belts pulleys and tensioners tomorrow. thanks in advance.
How did that turn out for you? I need to do the same.
Kinetic Diplomacist took about 2 hours to do all of it. get a serpentine belt tool it will help give you the leverage you need. other than that make sure your careful with the shroud. It's a pain to get back In. and wear long sleeves otherwise your arms will get cut up in the tight spaces.
Alright, thanks. been having a squeal and rattling sound, assuming it is the tensioners and belts.
Kinetic Diplomacist do your self a favor and do the A.C. belt and tensioner while your at it. ordered off rockauto.com Oem and best prices I could find.
Thanks! just ordered the full main kit (idler pulleys, tensioner, and belt) A/C tensioner and belt. All Gates. As well as the belt tool. All for less than $230 shipped. Now for the tedious portion once it all gets here...
Thank you very much for the video, it really save me a lot of money, oh an by the way I love the music, Klove!!!!
Have a wonderful day.
anyone know any videos about taking off the fan clutch?
you are a god among men
could'nt of done it with out your video to make it easy and the christian music background to help the project go easy. God Bless
Thank you for this video!
Great video...very helpful!
Je l’es fait est asser de place juste en enlèvent là bol à air plus le batterie suport
What's the part number for the Idler?
Awesome video, Subbed
Great video thanks a bunch! Unfortunately NAVSTAR made everything a pain in the ass on 6.4.
Nice job bro! Good vid! Much appreciated!
I love you for this video
I have a chirp on my 2010 6.4 at 77k miles sound like its the tensioner or belt most likely?
Thanks for the great vid
Most likely yes.
Good job thanks.
Did not show how to route the belt
awsome help you rock!!!!
THank you. Saved my but!!!
It 77 you
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