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I was impressed too! A very good allround whoop. The modifications are not easy but also not super hard. So I think the meteor 75 pro is a very good allround whoop even without modifications.
Not bad flighttime, right? I didn't think it would last more than 8 minutes. It surprised me, even though I knew that the 75 pro was very efficient. I think it can only be beaten in terms of flight time by an ultra light 75mm whoop with a large lipo like the moblite7. But this one isn't half as durable as the 75 pro.
Amazing flight times with your modes! Where are you standing on this field for such a nice reception and what is the video gear?(goggles/antennas/) What do you think about new Air75 Meteor from BetaFPV? Is it as good as your modes, or may be it can be moded even better?
To be honest: I think the magic is the rapidfire module. Goggle is good old Fatshark HD3. Antennas are Lumenier Axii 2 90 degrees stubby. Nothing special. For me the biggest step was the rapidfire vtx module in my googles. Meteor 75Air should be quite good in terms of flighttime and maybe even better flighttime with 550mah lipos than my modded 75 pro but I think less durable. The big plus with the 75 air is of course that you can simply buy it and you don't have to change anything. If you buy it, consider to use my affiliate link to support my work. Thanks in advance!
@@butterflyfpv I'm currently using EV800D, but reception is very poor and have some problems with the battery and battery indicator too, so thinking to upgrade. Do you think Skyzone CobraX or Sky04o is a good choice?(which one of those or something else you can suggest)
@@Braincho Unfortunately I'm not familiar with other googles. But I think all glasses starting at around $400 should be pretty good. Difficult to say whether it is as good as my fatshark hd3 with rapidfire. But definitely better than your current googles.. But if you really want very good reception like in my videos then you probably have to be prepared to spend around 600-700 dollars. I would recommend you watch RUclips videos for 1-2 hours about analog fpv googles. Then you are well prepared and know what you need and want..
Yep, that 75pro is efficient and your mods are pretty much what I would want to do as well 😊. I'm not quite as impressed with the 75mm on 27000kv though. I can totally understand why you pick those motors and that whoop must be a lot of fun (I have a 25000kv 75mm). But it's nowhere near as efficient as the similar 20000kv whoop (both happymodel motors). 3:30 vs 4:50 on the same 450mah, same cruisy flight. It's not to say lower kV is better, but it's horses for courses.. This is why we need many whoops!
Yes, you are 100% right! We also need low kv motors. The only thing I don't like is when people say that high kv motors have very bad efficiency. They have shorter flight times, but in relation to the power they provide (if you can use the power) they don't have bad effieciency. They are very efficient when you look at the power to flight time ratio. Just like a car engine with a large turbocharger. If you always press the throttle fully, you need enormous amounts of fuel. But if you just cruise and the boost pressure stays low, you can drive surprisingly economically. But of course you will still need a little more fuel than an engine fully optimized for economy. You're right, my 75mm 802 27k whoop doesn't have as long a flight time as an 802 20k ultra light whoop. But for the enormous power that the 75 802 27k has, the flight time is surprisingly long when cruising. It definitely surprised me and I think many people are not aware of what you can get out of high kv motors if you do everything right.
Have an off topic question if you please: AIO FC on my 1S micro drone burned out. Bought BetaFPV F4 1S 5A AIO - do I have to tune something on it or just replace FC? The original drone was prebuilt and ready, so I'm not too sure what is the way to deal wit hit. Will appreciate some help from whoop god.
Hello my whoop friend this is why you always need to do a backup of the betaflight settings of your drone when you buy a new one. But I think you can download the dump file / diff file of settings from the manufacturers website of your drone. Or you can email the support of your drone manufacturer. Please watch some videos on youtube on how to backup your betaflight settings.. It's difficult to explain here. The best thing to do is watch RUclips videos, find real life whoop friends or register in online communities on Facebook or Discord. I hope this helps a little bit..
@@butterflyfpv Thanks for help! Only some mosfets burned out on the AIO, so I can still connect it to betaflight. Do I just save something and then load it into new AIO board?
@@Braincho Ok then you need to know the default esc and gyro settings of the betafpv board. Some boards need special gyro and esc settings. Note (or take a screenshot of) the original esc and gyro settings from the betafpv board. ESC protocol (Dshot), PID loop frequency and so on. And then make a diff file from the flywoo board. Then load the diff file onto the betaflight board. Then check the esc settings and adjust them if necessary so that they are back to the default betafpv. Difficult to describe. But really only the esc and gyro settings need to be adapted to the betafpv board. Honestly, it would be easier if you learned everything from scratch. I know it will be hard and take a week or two, but then you will know how to set up a brand new board yourself. This will be very helpful for your fpv career. Because I can't explain everything to you here and you might run into some problems like a motor turning the wrong way around. Or that the gyro direction of action is not correct and the quad flips upside down on the ground when you want to fly, etc. Ultimately, you have to learn how to set and test the direction of action of your gyro. You have to learn how to change the direction of rotation of the motor. The best way to do this is to simply start and if you run into problems then enter e.g. on RUclips: change motor direction of rotation actuated 4.4. And if you can't solve the problem, ask in Facebook groups or Discord servers. Of course you can also ask me, but I think in the long run it's better to have a discord server where someone will answer you faster. E.g. the discord server from webleed. I hope this helps you. For the next two weeks you will have to watch a lot of RUclips videos and learn a lot. But it's worth it! At some point you'll fly like me :-D
@@butterflyfpv Thanks mate!!! I do know basics like board orientation and motor directions. The PID, protocols etc. are the ones that give me hard time. Will do some more research and upgrade my knowledge - will need it anyway. Its just some things for me are hard to understand at their meaning and how will it affect the hardware/software - don't want to do irreversible damage. What settings do Presets save(all of configurations or only some)?Are diff file is the Preset? Those things you said about board special setting - don't really get it: what part of settings must be for the specific board and what for the rest build(like Flywoo and Betafpv) and what would it be if build from scratch? Thanks again! And have a good one!
@@Braincho I completely understand your worries! But I also have to tell you that some broken gear is simply part of the learning process. No pain no gain.😅 I'll give you the following tip: Try to don't overwhelm yourself. Focus on one setting and then watch several RUclips videos about the one specific setting. This way you don't overwhelm yourself. Unfortunately I really can't explain everything to you here. You really have to learn it yourself with youtube tutorials or with real life fpv friends. Or with the help of chat gpt or other AI tools. Watch this complete playlist: ruclips.net/video/LkBWRiEGKTI/видео.html If I rebuild a whoop with a new board then I make a backup of the manufacturer's settings (enter diff all or dump all in Betflight CLI) and then I usually flash the latest Betaflight on it straight away if the manufacturer has not written anywhere that the board only runs with custom software. Then I set my preferred settings. For example, props out. I turn off Airmode permanently. I want airmode on a switch. Then I check that the gyro orientation is correct, that the motors are turning correctly, etc. There is too much to explain everything here in detail. Unfortunately I can't do it, sorry. Maybe I'll make a video about it. But I can't explain everything there either. Everyone really has to learn for themselves. It's like a little study. All I can tell you is do one thing at a time. And never give up! And look for real life fpv friends and whatsapp chats as well as discord and facebook groups. But the best thing is real life fpv friends. Hope this helps a little bit.
I think it was a 450mah Lipo. But yes if you fly crazy full send you can end up with about 2min 15 seconds on a 550mah pack or under 2min with 450mah lipo. The flighttime with my "normal" racing/rage whoop flight style is between 2min 30sec to 3min with 550mah and between 2min 15sec and 2min 40sec with 450mah. I rarely make it to 3 minutes or more. The timer on my radio is set to 2min 30sec.
Yes I wan`t to use more camera angle, but I need someone to draw me camera mount with CAD and print it out with a 3D printer. At some point I'll find someone who can do that for me...
I don't understand why the mods shouldn't be efficient have the mods Tried soldering motors to instead of using the plug flies better and a little longer the things that are presented work 100%👍👍👍
75 Pro is better for outdoors in windy conditions, very durable.. So in my opinion I would go with 75 pro first if you plan to fly a lot (or mainly) outdoors.. And if you fly most of the time indoors then you can go with the air75. Hope this helps
@@awerks12 Good! Just make sure you fly about 50-100 Lipos after a change in the settings to give your brain time to adapt. And watch this review from my youtube friend: ruclips.net/video/i_fPatDvfGY/видео.html or watch my playlist of the meteor 75 Pro ruclips.net/video/tFV4iYxI8_U/видео.html
Exactly😁 more speed is always less flighttime. But the high power whoops are surprisingly efficient when you don't use all the power. Something like a turbocharged engine. If you are heavy on the throttle, you need a lot of gas, but if you're cruising, you can drive pretty economically with turbocharged engines.
I like that you care about the lipos. But I didn't fly the lipos too low. Completely empty (that was the goal) but not too deep. Too low is only below 3.0V. But you are right, beginners in particular should not fly too low because you can accidentally get below 3.0V if you are not paying attention because you are too busy flying. But in this test I really wanted to get the most out of it. In everyday life it would be more like 7:30 minutes for a cruise flight with my modifications and around 5:30 minutes with a stock Meteor 75 Pro for cruising flight.
@@GR8SCOTT Not at all with these 1S Lipos. I do this for years know. No problems at all. No puffed Lipos. Recovery voltage 3.3V-3.4V is fine. Most of the time the recovery voltage after my race flights is between 3.4 and 3.5V. The important point is that you never ever get below 3.0V, not even in flight! I understand that you want to be careful and I think that's a good thing too! But I need the maximum of my gear. And the manufacturer itself also recommends that you never go below 3.0V. Some lipos even say it on the lipo. And since I need maximum power anyway, my lipos don't have to last longer than two years. So I don't have to treat them perfectly so that they last 5 years. You're doing everything right. But what you're doing wouldn't be enough for me. The worst thing for lipos is when you don't use them for a longer period of time or store them fully charged or empty for a long time (more than a week). Then they bloat pretty quickly. And as I said, you should never go below 3.0V, not even during punchouts in flight.
Of course! The AWG20 main cable ensures greater efficiency and flight time. The low weight also ensures greater efficiency and flight time. And Bluejay 96khz also ensures more efficiency and flight time. I don't quite understand what you mean. In this video ruclips.net/video/pqjsXV0uzLU/видео.html you can see my Meteor75 Pro ButterflyFPV Edition cruising for 8minutes 30seconds. I have never seen another 75 Pro on the internet that flies for so long. If you know someone, feel free to send the video.
‼⚠Info is in the video description⚠‼ If this video has some value for you then please consider to use this affiliate link to support my work (it`s free for you!): bit.ly/3Lt4mwV
Holy crap this thing looks like it flies so nice. And long runtime WOW
I was impressed too! A very good allround whoop. The modifications are not easy but also not super hard. So I think the meteor 75 pro is a very good allround whoop even without modifications.
This is really incredible flying!
Thanks for sharing this awesome info
Not bad flighttime, right? I didn't think it would last more than 8 minutes. It surprised me, even though I knew that the 75 pro was very efficient. I think it can only be beaten in terms of flight time by an ultra light 75mm whoop with a large lipo like the moblite7. But this one isn't half as durable as the 75 pro.
Amazing flight times with your modes!
Where are you standing on this field for such a nice reception and what is the video gear?(goggles/antennas/)
What do you think about new Air75 Meteor from BetaFPV? Is it as good as your modes, or may be it can be moded even better?
To be honest: I think the magic is the rapidfire module. Goggle is good old Fatshark HD3. Antennas are Lumenier Axii 2 90 degrees stubby. Nothing special. For me the biggest step was the rapidfire vtx module in my googles. Meteor 75Air should be quite good in terms of flighttime and maybe even better flighttime with 550mah lipos than my modded 75 pro but I think less durable. The big plus with the 75 air is of course that you can simply buy it and you don't have to change anything. If you buy it, consider to use my affiliate link to support my work. Thanks in advance!
@@butterflyfpv I'm currently using EV800D, but reception is very poor and have some problems with the battery and battery indicator too, so thinking to upgrade. Do you think Skyzone CobraX or Sky04o is a good choice?(which one of those or something else you can suggest)
@@Braincho Unfortunately I'm not familiar with other googles. But I think all glasses starting at around $400 should be pretty good. Difficult to say whether it is as good as my fatshark hd3 with rapidfire. But definitely better than your current googles.. But if you really want very good reception like in my videos then you probably have to be prepared to spend around 600-700 dollars. I would recommend you watch RUclips videos for 1-2 hours about analog fpv googles. Then you are well prepared and know what you need and want..
Yep, that 75pro is efficient and your mods are pretty much what I would want to do as well 😊. I'm not quite as impressed with the 75mm on 27000kv though. I can totally understand why you pick those motors and that whoop must be a lot of fun (I have a 25000kv 75mm). But it's nowhere near as efficient as the similar 20000kv whoop (both happymodel motors). 3:30 vs 4:50 on the same 450mah, same cruisy flight. It's not to say lower kV is better, but it's horses for courses.. This is why we need many whoops!
Yes, you are 100% right! We also need low kv motors. The only thing I don't like is when people say that high kv motors have very bad efficiency. They have shorter flight times, but in relation to the power they provide (if you can use the power) they don't have bad effieciency. They are very efficient when you look at the power to flight time ratio. Just like a car engine with a large turbocharger. If you always press the throttle fully, you need enormous amounts of fuel. But if you just cruise and the boost pressure stays low, you can drive surprisingly economically. But of course you will still need a little more fuel than an engine fully optimized for economy. You're right, my 75mm 802 27k whoop doesn't have as long a flight time as an 802 20k ultra light whoop. But for the enormous power that the 75 802 27k has, the flight time is surprisingly long when cruising. It definitely surprised me and I think many people are not aware of what you can get out of high kv motors if you do everything right.
Hello, I live in the same area as you and I am also rocking a meteor 75!
I know I met you today😂 lol. See ya my whoop friend! Whoop whooop!🥳🤠
Yay. New vid😊
Have an off topic question if you please: AIO FC on my 1S micro drone burned out. Bought BetaFPV F4 1S 5A AIO - do I have to tune something on it or just replace FC? The original drone was prebuilt and ready, so I'm not too sure what is the way to deal wit hit.
Will appreciate some help from whoop god.
Hello my whoop friend this is why you always need to do a backup of the betaflight settings of your drone when you buy a new one. But I think you can download the dump file / diff file of settings from the manufacturers website of your drone. Or you can email the support of your drone manufacturer. Please watch some videos on youtube on how to backup your betaflight settings.. It's difficult to explain here. The best thing to do is watch RUclips videos, find real life whoop friends or register in online communities on Facebook or Discord. I hope this helps a little bit..
@@butterflyfpv Thanks for help!
Only some mosfets burned out on the AIO, so I can still connect it to betaflight. Do I just save something and then load it into new AIO board?
@@Braincho Ok then you need to know the default esc and gyro settings of the betafpv board. Some boards need special gyro and esc settings. Note (or take a screenshot of) the original esc and gyro settings from the betafpv board. ESC protocol (Dshot), PID loop frequency and so on. And then make a diff file from the flywoo board. Then load the diff file onto the betaflight board. Then check the esc settings and adjust them if necessary so that they are back to the default betafpv. Difficult to describe. But really only the esc and gyro settings need to be adapted to the betafpv board. Honestly, it would be easier if you learned everything from scratch. I know it will be hard and take a week or two, but then you will know how to set up a brand new board yourself. This will be very helpful for your fpv career. Because I can't explain everything to you here and you might run into some problems like a motor turning the wrong way around. Or that the gyro direction of action is not correct and the quad flips upside down on the ground when you want to fly, etc. Ultimately, you have to learn how to set and test the direction of action of your gyro. You have to learn how to change the direction of rotation of the motor. The best way to do this is to simply start and if you run into problems then enter e.g. on RUclips: change motor direction of rotation actuated 4.4. And if you can't solve the problem, ask in Facebook groups or Discord servers. Of course you can also ask me, but I think in the long run it's better to have a discord server where someone will answer you faster. E.g. the discord server from webleed. I hope this helps you. For the next two weeks you will have to watch a lot of RUclips videos and learn a lot. But it's worth it! At some point you'll fly like me :-D
@@butterflyfpv Thanks mate!!!
I do know basics like board orientation and motor directions. The PID, protocols etc. are the ones that give me hard time. Will do some more research and upgrade my knowledge - will need it anyway. Its just some things for me are hard to understand at their meaning and how will it affect the hardware/software - don't want to do irreversible damage.
What settings do Presets save(all of configurations or only some)?Are diff file is the Preset? Those things you said about board special setting - don't really get it: what part of settings must be for the specific board and what for the rest build(like Flywoo and Betafpv) and what would it be if build from scratch?
Thanks again! And have a good one!
@@Braincho I completely understand your worries! But I also have to tell you that some broken gear is simply part of the learning process. No pain no gain.😅 I'll give you the following tip: Try to don't overwhelm yourself. Focus on one setting and then watch several RUclips videos about the one specific setting. This way you don't overwhelm yourself. Unfortunately I really can't explain everything to you here. You really have to learn it yourself with youtube tutorials or with real life fpv friends. Or with the help of chat gpt or other AI tools. Watch this complete playlist: ruclips.net/video/LkBWRiEGKTI/видео.html
If I rebuild a whoop with a new board then I make a backup of the manufacturer's settings (enter diff all or dump all in Betflight CLI) and then I usually flash the latest Betaflight on it straight away if the manufacturer has not written anywhere that the board only runs with custom software. Then I set my preferred settings. For example, props out. I turn off Airmode permanently. I want airmode on a switch. Then I check that the gyro orientation is correct, that the motors are turning correctly, etc. There is too much to explain everything here in detail. Unfortunately I can't do it, sorry. Maybe I'll make a video about it. But I can't explain everything there either. Everyone really has to learn for themselves. It's like a little study. All I can tell you is do one thing at a time. And never give up! And look for real life fpv friends and whatsapp chats as well as discord and facebook groups. But the best thing is real life fpv friends. Hope this helps a little bit.
Great video!
At 8:51 speed flight , only get 1.88 minutes is this true on 550mahPack ?
I think it was a 450mah Lipo. But yes if you fly crazy full send you can end up with about 2min 15 seconds on a 550mah pack or under 2min with 450mah lipo. The flighttime with my "normal" racing/rage whoop flight style is between 2min 30sec to 3min with 550mah and between 2min 15sec and 2min 40sec with 450mah. I rarely make it to 3 minutes or more. The timer on my radio is set to 2min 30sec.
Why when you ho fast you tilt the drone down so that even the camera points down, and dont tilt tje camera more?
Yes I wan`t to use more camera angle, but I need someone to draw me camera mount with CAD and print it out with a 3D printer. At some point I'll find someone who can do that for me...
I don't understand why the mods shouldn't be efficient
have the mods
Tried soldering motors to instead of using the plug
flies better and a little longer
the things that are presented
work 100%👍👍👍
Very cool that you tried it! And thank you for your feedback here! I appreciate that!
Great Flying Butterfly ,
Thank you my friend!
can’t decide between meteor75 pro and air75 currently
75 Pro is better for outdoors in windy conditions, very durable.. So in my opinion I would go with 75 pro first if you plan to fly a lot (or mainly) outdoors.. And if you fly most of the time indoors then you can go with the air75. Hope this helps
@@butterflyfpv how does meteor75 pro handle itself indoors with a motor output limit?
@@awerks12 Good! Just make sure you fly about 50-100 Lipos after a change in the settings to give your brain time to adapt. And watch this review from my youtube friend: ruclips.net/video/i_fPatDvfGY/видео.html or watch my playlist of the meteor 75 Pro ruclips.net/video/tFV4iYxI8_U/видео.html
Its stock rates!?😮
No, not stock. 800 degrees per second on all axes. (Betaflight, 1.2 / 0.7 / 0.0 )
"With great power comes great responsibilities"...but less flight time 😅🤣
Exactly😁 more speed is always less flighttime. But the high power whoops are surprisingly efficient when you don't use all the power. Something like a turbocharged engine. If you are heavy on the throttle, you need a lot of gas, but if you're cruising, you can drive pretty economically with turbocharged engines.
You sound like Tareq Alsaadi 😃
😂👍I take that as a compliment 🤣 tareq is one of my role models for 3D helicopter flying..💛
@@butterflyfpv he's so good at rc helis. Blows my mind.
@@gmodesike My mind too!😄 but nowadays I can at least follow his motions in my brain and understand what he is doing..😅
Ran those batteries down too far IMHO.
I like that you care about the lipos. But I didn't fly the lipos too low. Completely empty (that was the goal) but not too deep. Too low is only below 3.0V. But you are right, beginners in particular should not fly too low because you can accidentally get below 3.0V if you are not paying attention because you are too busy flying. But in this test I really wanted to get the most out of it. In everyday life it would be more like 7:30 minutes for a cruise flight with my modifications and around 5:30 minutes with a stock Meteor 75 Pro for cruising flight.
@@butterflyfpv I totally disagree. You should come back up to about 3.5 after disarm, or else you're damaging your battery.
@@GR8SCOTT Not at all with these 1S Lipos. I do this for years know. No problems at all. No puffed Lipos. Recovery voltage 3.3V-3.4V is fine. Most of the time the recovery voltage after my race flights is between 3.4 and 3.5V. The important point is that you never ever get below 3.0V, not even in flight! I understand that you want to be careful and I think that's a good thing too! But I need the maximum of my gear. And the manufacturer itself also recommends that you never go below 3.0V. Some lipos even say it on the lipo. And since I need maximum power anyway, my lipos don't have to last longer than two years. So I don't have to treat them perfectly so that they last 5 years. You're doing everything right. But what you're doing wouldn't be enough for me. The worst thing for lipos is when you don't use them for a longer period of time or store them fully charged or empty for a long time (more than a week). Then they bloat pretty quickly. And as I said, you should never go below 3.0V, not even during punchouts in flight.
Well this was no use, nothing about tuning for efficiency
Of course! The AWG20 main cable ensures greater efficiency and flight time. The low weight also ensures greater efficiency and flight time. And Bluejay 96khz also ensures more efficiency and flight time. I don't quite understand what you mean. In this video ruclips.net/video/pqjsXV0uzLU/видео.html you can see my Meteor75 Pro ButterflyFPV Edition cruising for 8minutes 30seconds. I have never seen another 75 Pro on the internet that flies for so long. If you know someone, feel free to send the video.